THESIS PROPOSAL
“WASTE MANAGEMENT AND COMPOSTING WASTE
MATERIALS IN DBTC“
GROUP MEMBERS:
JOHNSON G. AGUSTIN
CHESTER R. GUMARANG
GLENN C. PROVIDO
SUBMITTED ON:
SUBMITTED TO:
ENGR. PAUL CATALAN
Chapter 1
INTRODUCTION
1.1 BACKGROUND OF THE STUDY (WHAT?)
Composting is nature's way of recycling. Composting biodegrades organic waste. i.e. food waste,
manure, leaves, grass trimmings, paper, wood, feathers, crop residue etc., and turns it into a
valuable organic fertilizer.
Composting is a natural biological process, carried out under controlled aerobic conditions
(requires oxygen). In this process, various microorganisms, including bacteria and fungi, break
down organic matter into simpler substances. The effectiveness of the composting process is
dependent upon the environmental conditions present within the composting system i.e.
oxygen, temperature, moisture, material disturbance, organic matter and the size and activity
of microbial populations. [1]
Composting is a process in which organic substances are reduced from large volumes of rapidly
decomposable materials to small volumes of materials which continue to decompose slowly. in
this process, the ratio of carbon to other elements is brought into balance, thus avoiding
temporary immobilization of nutrients. One of the many benefits of adding compost to the soil
is that the nutrients in it are slowly released to the soil and are then available for use by plants.
Decomposition will take place in soil if undecomposed organic materials are added to it but in
the breakdown process nutrients will be tied up and unavailable for plants to use. This may result
in nutrient deficiencies and poor growth, especially if large amounts of material are added. [2]
1.2 STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM
In the Philippines people often burn waste like dry leaves and kitchen waste. Also sometimes people
throw their waste such us dry leave and kitchen waste in wrong places which sometimes cause
floods and pollution in the environment. One of the harmful effects of burning waste materials is
the negative effect of smoke to our health and also to the environment which causes the climate
change. Most Filipinos do not manage their waste properly which causes the destruction of our
environment like what happened to the Pasig River. The improper waste disposal also effects our
health because sickness are cause due to the bacteria we get and also harmful insects such as
mosquito lives in polluted water that cause dengue which sometimes lead to death. Some people
in the Philippines are not aware of the harmful effects of their waste and less inform about the other
alternatives that they can do dispose their waste. Here in the Philippines some government
activities for saving the environment are performed in schools for children and students to be aware
of properly disposing their waste and recycling such as plastics and papers. But no schools are
promoting the composting of other waste materials such as dry leaves, kitchen waste and other
environmental waste which cause people to be unaware of the negative effects of the
environmental waste.
1.3 OBJECTIVES
1.3.1 GENERAL OBJECTIVES
●
To have a waste management system in Don Bosco Technical college.
1.3.2 SPECIFIC OBJECTIVES
●
To design the equipment to BE use in waste management system.
●
To fabricate the equipment that will be use in improving the waste system in DBTC.
●
To speed up the process using the resources available at the school.
●
To study its benefit to the school, environment and to us.
1.4 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY (WHO AND WHY?)
This study will benefit the students and school management to know the proper way of
managing their environment waste materials such as dry leaves, branches from the trees and
kitchen waste. It will also have a big help to our environment if this kind of waste management
system is implemented in all schools and also urban areas because we can lessen the pollution
which cause the climate change.
1.5 SCOPE AND LIMITATIONS (WHERE AND WHEN?)
●
This study is intended to focus on the waste disposal of waste materials such as dry
leaves, branches and kitchen waste in DBTC.
●
Testing will be performed only in school property and will be performed only to the
given time period for our thesis project.
●
The materials and resources that we will use are only those which are available in
schools and in the Philippines.
WHAT- Composting waste materials in schools
WHO- This will help students and people to understand the alternative way of disposing their waste and
the effect of composting.
WHERE- In School (DBTC)
WHY- As engineers we look for better solutions or way of the improvement of our environment and
technology. So to help the reduction of pollution and effects of global warming, we want to study and
implement a system to dispose the waste in school using the composting methods.
WHEN- We have to accomplished this project on the school year of 2011-2012 in the given time of our
professor and adviser
Chapter 2
REVIEW OF RELATED LITERATURE
INTRODUCTION
In this chapter the composting process, composting ingredients and composting design will be discussed
base on the existing articles and preferences that we found. Also in this chapter our thesis proposal will
be clearer and will guide us to accomplish our thesis project.
2.1 Composting Process
2.1.1 Temperature
Temperature is directly proportional to the biological activity within the composting system. As the
metabolic rate of the microbes accelerates, the temperature within the system increases.
Conversely, as the metabolic rate of the microbes decreases, the system temperature decreases.
Maintaining a temperature of 130°F or more for 3 to 4 days favors the destruction of weed seeds,
fly larvae and plant pathogens. [3]
At a temperature of 155 degrees F, organic matter will decompose about twice as fast as at 130
degrees F. Temperatures above 155 degrees F may result in the destruction of certain microbe
populations. In this case temperature may rapidly decline. Temperature will slowly rise again as the
microbe population regenerates.
Moisture content, oxygen availability, and microbial activity all influence temperature. When the
pile temperature is increasing, it is operating at optimum performance and should be left alone. As
the temperature peaks, and begins to decrease, the pile should be turned to incorporate oxygen
into the compost. Subsequently , the pile should respond to the turning and incorporation of
oxygen, and temperature should again cycle upwards. The turning process should be continued
until the pile fails to re-heat. This indicates that the compost material is biologically stable.
2.1.2 Particle Size
The ideal particle size is around 2 to 3 inches. In some cases, such as in the composting of grass
clippings, the raw material may be too dense to permit adequate air flow or may be too moist. A
common solution to this problem is to add a bulking agent (straw, dry leaves, paper, cardboard) to
allow for proper air flow. Mixing materials of different sizes and textures also helps aerate the
compost pile. [3]
2.1.3 Turning
During the composting process oxygen is used up quickly by the microbes as they metabolize the
organic matter. As the oxygen becomes depleted the composting process slows and temperatures
decline. Aerating the compost by turning should ensure an adequate supply of oxygen to the
microbes. [3]
2.1.4 Composting Period
The composting period is governed by a number of factors including, temperature, moisture,
oxygen, particle size, the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio and the degree of turning involved. Generally,
effective management of these factors will accelerate the composting process. [1]
2.1.5 Carbon to Nitrogen Ratio
Carbon -rich matter (like branches, stems, dried leaves, peels, bits of wood, bark dust or sawdust
pellets, shredded brown paper bags, coffee filters, conifer needles, egg shells, hay, peat moss, wood
ash) gives compost its light, fluffy body.
Nitrogen or protein-rich matter (manures, food scraps, leafy materials like lawn clippings and green
leaves) provides raw materials for making enzymes.
The microbes in compost use carbon for energy and nitrogen for protein synthesis. The proportion
of these two elements required by the microbes averages about 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen.
Accordingly, the ideal ratio of Carbon to Nitrogen (C:N) is 30 to 1 (measured on a dry weight basis).
This ratio governs the speed at which the microbes decompose organic waste.
Most organic materials do not have this ratio and, to accelerate the composting process, it may be
necessary to balance the numbers.
The
C:N
ratio
of
materials
can
be
calculated
by
using
table
1
below.
Example, if you have two bags of cow manure (C:N = 20:1) and one bag of corn stalks (C:N = 60:1)
then combined you have a C:N ration of (20:1 + 20:1 + 60:1)/3 = (100:1)/3 = 33:1 [4]
Table 1.Lists the Carbon/Nitrogen Ratios of Some Common Organic Materials
Table 1
Material
Vegetable wastes
C:N Ratio
12-20:1
Alfalfa hay
13:1
Cow manure
20:1
Apple pomace
21:1
Leaves
40-80:1
Corn stalks
60:1
Oat straw
74:1
Wheat straw
80:1
Paper
150-200:1
Sawdust
100-500:1
Grass clippings
12-25:1
Coffee grounds
20:1
Bark
100-130:1
Fruit wastes
35:1
Poultry manure (fresh)
10:1
Horse manure
25:1
Newspaper
50-200:1
Pine needles
60-110:1
Rotted manure
20:1
The C:N ratios listed above are for guidelines only.
2.1.5.1 Very High Nitrogen (The Hot Greens or Activators and Accelerators)
These have a low C/N ratio - somewhere between 0 and 10. Nitrogen is something that tends to
heat the compost up. It moves bacterial growth and reproduction into high gear. The ratios
shown are approximate. These items work both as a regular part of compost and can be used as
activators or compost accelerators. The materials include: [4]
●
urine - less than 1
●
seed meals - 6-7
●
bone meal - 6
●
blood meal - 3
●
fish wastes - 3
●
Many manures - poultry, pig 6-10
2.1.5.2 High Nitrogen (The Moist Greens)
These have a C/N ratio of between 10 and 30. They are referred to by many people as greens. The
ratios shown are approximate. The materials include: [4]
●
food scraps - 15
●
coffee grounds - 20
●
hay from legumes like alfalfa and clover - 15 - 20
●
grass clippings - 15 - 25
●
fresh green weeds and plant waste - 25-30
●
cow and horse manure - 15-20
●
seaweed - 30
●
leaves from leguminous trees such as Alder - 20-30
2.1.5.3 High Carbon (The Dry Browns)
These have a C/N ratio of 30 to about 80. These are the drier browns. The materials in this category
are important not only to balance your carbon nitrogen ratios, they are also important in providing
your compost the structure it needs to maintain some air and oxygen flow through your compost
during its decomposition. The ratios shown are approximate. The materials include: [4]
●
dried leaves - 35 - 80
●
straw - 75
●
hay from non legume crops - 50
●
corn cobs and stalks – 75
2.1.5.4 Very High Carbon (The Dry Browns)
These have a C/N ration of over 80 and up to as much as 800. These materials can be useful when
dealing with a lot of very high nitrogen wastes. For example, if you were composting a lot of fish
waste which has a C/N ratio of about 3 you might balance your compost with sawdust which has a
ratio of about 300. These materials can also be important for maintaining air pockets in the
compost. The ratios shown are approximate. The materials include: [4]
●
shredded cardboard - 300 - 500
●
paper - 100 - 800
●
toilet paper, paper towel and gift wrap rolls - 200-350
●
used paper towels, napkins and kleenex - 100-200
●
sawdust - 300
●
woodchips - 400
2.2 Compost Ingredients
2.2.1 Green Compost Materials
Green compost materials are much higher in nitrogen. Nitrogen is an important element in amino
acids and proteins, and is a vital protein source for the compost microbes, helping to speed up the
process of decomposition. [5]
2.2.1.1 Vegetable Peelings (12:1)
This category consists of any pieces of fruits and vegetables. Most of us have an endless supply of
this type of material: potato peelings, apple cores, banana peels, any bits and pieces of uncooked
vegetables that would otherwise have gone into the garbage bin! It is best to avoid using cooked
vegetables in your compost because oils used in cooking will slow down decomposition and may
attract rodents and other animals. One solution for those who wish to compost cooked vegetables
is to use a closed plastic bin with wire mesh on the bottom. [5]
2.2.1.2 Grass Clippings (20-30:1)
Grass clippings are very high in nitrogen. While that may seem like a good thing, and it is, there are
also a few things to consider. First, it is often best to leave grass clippings on the lawn where they
will decompose naturally and help to feed the soil.
If you do want to add grass clippings to your compost use them sparingly at first, adding a very thin
layer on top of a layer of brown materials, or by mixing them thoroughly with other green materials.
If they are applied too thickly they tend to form slimy clumps or mats that do not permit air
circulation. The mats do not break down very well and and release an unpleasant smelling (but
harmless) ammonia gas. [5]
2.2.1.3 Fresh Manure (Various) - Poultry (7:1), Sheep (16:1), Horse (22:1), Cow (18:1)
Manure is a valuable ingredient in any compost pile. It contains a high level of nitrogen which will
help to get the pile "cooking" quickly. It is acceptable to use manure from horses, cows, chickens,
rabbits, sheep, goats and bats (guano) in your compost.
Do not use manure from dogs, cats, pigs or humans in your compost pile or in your garden as they
can contain harmful parasites and can cause diseases in humans. It is also advisable never to use
any fresh manure in your garden unless it has been composted first.
If you don't have access to manure, don't worry. There are lots of alternative ingredients that are
high in nitrogen that will give your compost pile a boost. Ingredients such as grass clippings,
seaweed, and vegetable scraps will do the trick! [5]
2.2.1.4 Coffee Grounds (20:1)
Coffee grounds are high in nitrogen and really help to heat up your compost. You can compost any
kind of coffee grounds and if you use a paper filter just toss it in as well.
Many coffee shops collect their used coffee grounds and provide them free of charge to their
customers. Check with your local coffee shop to find out if there is a program in your area. If there
isn't, why not get together with other local gardeners and petition the coffee shop that you
patronise to start a program. [5]
Coffee grounds can also be used directly in the garden as a mulch for acid loving plants such as
Azelieas and Rhododendrons.
2.2.1.5 Seaweed (19:1)
If you live in an area where seaweed is available consider yourself blessed. You have an almost
endless supply of nutrient-rich composting material. The addition of seaweed helps to get a
compost pile to heat up due to it's high nitrogen content. Most people rinse the seaweed before
adding to the pile to remove excess salt. [5]
2.2.1.6 Plants and Plant Cuttings (20-40:1)
Most plants and plant cuttings can be composted including annual weeds without mature seeds,
any remains of spent or harvested plants and flower tops collected from deadheading. [5]
2.2.2 Brown Compost Material
Composting relies on the right ingredients to be successful. Brown materials such as leaves, straw,
hay and sawdust are high in carbon and are a source of energy for the compost microbes. [3]
2.2.2.1 Leaves (50-80:1)
Leaves are generally an excellent ingredient for your compost. Those living in areas with a large
bounty of autumn leaves should make the most of it and find some neighbours willing to pass on
their leaves. Many neighbours will do the raking for you if you agree to cart away the piles!
Living green leaves are considered "green materials", wheras the dead, dry leaves that fall from the
trees in autumn are seen as "brown materials".
Autumn leaves are a great source of carbon and contain a surprising amount of nutrients that can
be returned to the soil through compost. Although whole leaves are acceptable, it is better to shred
the leaves before adding to the compost pile. Unshredded leaves tend to mat together excluding
air from the pile. Leaves can be shredded in a number of ways: [5]
2.2.2.2 Straw: (80:1)
Straw provides less nitrogen than hay but contributes more than double the carbon. Straw
decomposes quite slowly so it's an especially good addition in areas with heavy clay soil. The
remaining straw particles in the finished compost help to open up the soil structure. [5]
2.2.2.3 Paper & Cardboard (150-200:1)
Paper such as newspaper, bills, paper towels, tissues can be composted but it should be shredded
first. Avoid adding glossy and highly coloured papers. Stiff cardboard should be broken into small
pieces or made into a slurry before it's added to the pile. [5]
2.2.2.4 Eggshells
Eggshells contain calcium and are a useful addition to the comost pile. The shells do take a long
time to break down so it's a good idea to crush them before adding. Do not include whole eggs in
your compost, just the shells. [5]
2.2.2.5 Tea bags
Both black tea and herbal teas can be composted, whether loose leaves or in bags. [5]
2.2.2.6 Sawdust (400:1)
Sawdust and wood chips contain very low amounts of nitrogen and are very slow to break down in
the compost pile. Use sawdust in very thin layers or mix thoroughly with a green material such as
kitchen scraps or grass clippings. Large wood chips will take a very long time to break down and are
often put to better use as a mulch.
Do not to compost any sawdust or wood that has been "pressure treated" or otherwise treated
with a chemical preservative. Pressure treated wood (often recognizible by a greenish tint) has been
shown to leach arsenic into the soil when used for making playground equipment, compost bins
and raised beds. [5]
2.2.2.7 Wood Ashes (25:1)
Wood Ashes are an excellent source of calcium and potassium but are also very alkaline. Use
sparingly to avoid high pH levels that limit microbial activity. Avoid composting charcoal briquettes
as they take too long to break down. Also, avoid composting the ashes created from commercially
made "firelogs" which often contain wax and other petroleum derivatives. [5]
2.3 Composting Methods
2.3.1 Hot Composting
Hot composting is the most efficient method for producing quality compost in a relatively short
time. In addition, it favors the destruction of weed seeds, fly larvae and pathogens. While hot
composting, using the windrow or bin method, requires a high degree of management, hot
composting, using the in-vessel method, requires a lesser degree of management. [3]
2.3.1.1 Nine Steps to Hot Composting
2.3.1.1.1 Prepare the Composting Area
The composting area must be properly prepared. Start with an empty bin or space on the ground
where you wish to locate your compost pile. Make certain your space is well drained and that storm
water runoff from the roof or the yard will not reach the composting area. Choose a point that has
a higher elevation than the rest of the yard, but make sure that it is within easy reach of the garden
hose because, like houseplants or garden vegetables, the compost pile needs occasional watering.
[6]
2.3.1.1.2 Choose your bin
With proper preparation, piles can be made to heat and decompose adequately without the need
for bins. The main purpose of bins and enclosures is to help hold heat by keeping the composting
mass as close as possible to the active composting center. A bin is like an oven, except that its
purpose is to help hold moisture as well as heat. In small piles bins also allow air infiltration from
the sides, assisting the “chimney effect” of warm air rising and aiding ventilation. Bins are an
advantage since they help the pile look neat, containing unsightly matter within an enclosure. [6]
2.3.1.1.3 Stockpiling
There is a natural tendency to slowly fill the compost bin with fresh organic matter and hope for
the best. This is the basis of passive composting. But the composter who desires a hot, active pile
waits until there is sufficient material accumulated to properly start a “batch” of compost. Other
composting guides suggest that the person stockpile right in the bin, layer by layer. The mixing stage
is completed sometime later when the pile is “turned”. While this process can be effective for
passive composting, it is easier to stockpile outside the bin and mix everything all at once at the
start of a hot compost batch. [6]
2.3.1.1.4 Inoculating
Inoculating the compost pile is the process of distributing an active biological culture evenly
throughout the material to be composted. In the past, many compost guides have recommended
using soil as an inoculant, even recommending several 6″ layers of topsoil. Clinical studies have
shown that adding soil does more harm than good for the composting process since most soils are
low in organic matter. The number of active organisms in even a rich topsoil with 7% organic matter
is insignificant compared to an organic compost with up to 90% organic matter.
Some composting experts correctly point out that the essential micro-organisms are already
present in leaves and grass clippings and will eventually decompose the organic material. But
distributing high populations of organisms evenly throughout the raw material has been shown to
accelerate the composting process tremendously over piles with no inoculant. In large commercial
composting facilities, the percentage of compost recycled is closely controlled to keep the
composting piles performing at their optimum. [6]
2.3.1.1.5 Mixing
Mixing prior to active, hot composting is absolutely essential for rapid and efficient decomposition.
Mixing evenly distributes micro-organisms throughout the pile. It blends several types and
consistencies of organic material together to produce a “composite”, the term from which compost
was derived. Mixing allows essential reactions to occur in the compost pile related to air migration,
carbon to nitrogen balance, moisture availability, and fresh food for bacteria. Mixing at the start of
the batch is the single most important step needed to facilitate hot composting. This is true in largescale commercial piles as much as it is in backyard bins.
The trick is to layer your various ingredients outside the bin, watering each layer as you go. Think
“green and brown” or “grass and leaves” when you make the layers. Add up to 10% bulky matter
like wood chips to keep the pile loose to avoid matting. THEN fork the layers into the bin, mixing as
you go, blending wet with dry, watering as necessary. Make several small mini-batches of three
layers or so, only four to six inches high, of your ingredients in the mixing area and fork them into
the bin, one small mini-batch at a time. [6]
2.3.1.1.6 Balancing the ingredients
The organisms of decomposition, like all plants and animals, require a balanced diet in order to
thrive and reproduce. While organic materials are the basic food for decomposition, not all organics
are equally nutritious. Products like grass clippings are high in nitrogen while woody items like
leaves, sawdust, wood chips, and paper are high in carbon. Micro-organisms need nitrogen and
oxygen in order to decompose carbon and convert it into carbon dioxide. If there is too much
nitrogen, foul smelling ammonia can be produced. If there is too little nitrogen, the carbon is
decomposed very slowly.
Organics can be easily rated according to their carbon to nitrogen ratio. Most composting experts
recommend a 30 to 1 ratio as the ideal composting blend. Refer to the carbon to nitrogen ratio
chart for more information on how to determine and select the proper ingredients. For the
beginning composter, a slightly lower carbon to nitrogen ratio of 40 or 45 to 1 is recommended to
prevent odors from developing. [6]
2.3.1.1.7 Watering
Watering is best performed at the beginning of the batch as the layers are formed and again as the
layers are mixed and placed in the bin. Old compost, which was added as an inoculant at a ratio
from 10% to 25%, helps the new dry material gradually take on moisture since old compost holds
water better than fresh material. If the pile is too wet and odors have developed, you must dry it
out. Mixing in dry leaves, straw, or old and dry compost can help absorb excess water. Spreading
the pile to dry in the sun can also be effective. Rototilling wet compost into the soil is another
technique, although wet soils clog most tillers. [6]
2.3.1.1.8 Aerating
Once the stockpiled material is properly layered with older and active compost, when it has been
lightly watered, has the proper carbon to nitrogen ratio, and has been thoroughly mixed, then the
active, hot composting process will begin. Like any other form of livestock, your “herd” of bacteria
requires food, air, and water. You have added food with a balance of carbon and nitrogen, which
are the green and brown materials. You just added water while you mixed everything together.
Now the bacteria need air.
Old compost theory suggests that you “turn the pile” for aeration. Recent studies, however, show
that a pile uses up its oxygen in as little as ½-hour after turning! It is a challenge to get air deep
inside the pile, especially at the base. Air vents in the side of the bin let in some air, but often the
result is too much on the sides with none in the middle. Not to worry! If you follow these simple
steps, you will be able to make well-aerated compost in only a few weeks without turning. [6]
2.3.1.1.9 Active, Hot Composting
Once mixed, watered, formed, and poked, the material will become an active, hot compost pile.
Within a day, the pile will heat to over 140°F and will maintain elevated temperatures for weeks.
The mass will shrink of its own accord and continue decomposing without additional turning. If the
pile was under-mixed, over-watered, or is being initiated for the first time, turning after the first
three to seven days will give the pile an additional boost. Another turn of the pile after 10 to 14
days will further accelerate decomposition, although turning while mixing in new material saves
this additional step. [6]
2.3.2 Cold Composting
This method is ideal for adding organic matter around trees, in garden plots, in eroded areas etc.
The time required to decompose organic matter using this method is governed, to a large extent,
by environmental conditions and could take two years or more. [3]
2.3.3 Sheet Composting
Sheet composting is carried out by spreading organic material on the surface of the soil or untilled
ground and allowing it to decompose naturally. Over time, the material will decompose and filter
into the soil. This method is ideally suited for forage land, no-till applications, erosion control,
roadside landscaping etc. The process does not favor the destruction of weed seeds, fly larvae,
pathogens etc. and composting materials should be limited to plant residue and manure. Again,
decomposition time is governed by environmental conditions and can be quite lengthy. [3]
2.3.4 Trench Composting
Trench composting is relatively simple. Simply dig a trench 6 - 8 inches deep, fill with 3 - 4 inches of
organic material and cover with soil. Wait a few weeks and plant directly above the trench. This
method does not favor the destruction of weed seeds, fly larvae and pathogens and the composting
process can be relatively slow. [3]
2.4 Existing Design for Composting Systems
2.4.1 Wooden Bin
A wooden box bin can built inexpensively using wooden pallets or lumber woods. [7]
Figure 1. Wooden Box Bin
2.4.2 Wood and Wire Three bin unit turning
Use a wood & wire 3-bin turning unit to quickly compost large amounts of yard, garden and kitchen
wastes. Though relatively expensive to build, it is sturdy, attractive and should last a long time.
Construction requires basic carpentry skills and tools. [7]
Figure 2. Wood and Wire Three bin unit turning
2.4.3 Cinder Block Bin
Cinder blocks are a good choice for a compost bin, creating a permanent enclosure with easy access.
[7]
Figure 3. Cinder Block Bin
2.4.4 Wire Mesh Bin
A wire mesh bin is inexpensive and easy to build out either galvanized chicken wire and or hardware
cloth. A wire mesh bin made without post is easy to lift allowing you to get the compost that is
already done at the bottom of the pile while the top of the pile is still cooking. [7]
Figure 4. Wire mesh bin
2.4.5 Garbage Can Composter
A compost bin can be built easily and inexpensively using either a metal or plastic. This composter
is that you get to move it each season so you don’t saturate the ground in any one area. [7]
Figure 5. Garbage Can Composter
2.4.6 Compost Pockets
This is an easy composting shortcut. You bury your fruit and vegetables in small packets of your
garden and let micro organisms and soil animals do the work. [7]
2.4.7 Compost Tumbler
A compost tumbler, similar to its compost bin counterpart, will hold all your waste scraps to be
turned into nutrient rich compost. The main difference between a compost tumbler and a compost
bin is function. If you want to compost but live in an area where open composting is restricted, the
neighbors don’t appreciate your uncontained compost pile, or if scavenging critters have become
a problem, you may find that a compost tumbler can solve all those issues. A compost tumbler will
keep your compost tidy and make turning the pile easier. Some manufacturers claim their tumblers
speed up the composting process and promise that you will have a load of rich “black gold” sooner
than you do when using traditional methods. [7]
Figure 6. Compost Tumbler
SUMMARY:
Based on the existing research and studies according to the article and references we have read
there is a composting process we should follow to have good results on our thesis project
composting the waste materials in DBTC. We have also came to know that there should be a ratio
to follow to decrease the composting period and right mixtures of compost ingredients like the
green and brown ingredients to mix in the compost pile or tumbler. There are also existing designs
that we have read that could help us in planning our compost project and knowing the best design
to use for our composting project.
Chapter 3
METHODOLOGY
3.1 PROCESS FLOW CHART
This study shall consist of four stages namely: Collecting (collecting the waste materials)
Shredding (Shredding the waste materials such as the dry leaves and kitchen waste) Mixing
(Mixing the green and brown ingredients to balance the carbon-nitrogen ratio) Composting
(Composting the waste materials to use for fertilizers) (See Figure 7) Details of each stages are
discussed in the succeeding pages.
START
COLLECTING
SHREDDING
MIXING
COMPOSTING
END
3.2 COLLECTING THE WASTE MATERIALS
FIGURE 8. Wood Three bin unit turning
FIGURE 9. TRASH BIN COLLECTOR
The collection of waste materials will only be done around the school campus of Don Bosco. We will inform
the people responsible for collecting the waste materials like dry leaves, kitchen waste and also
grass clippings to put it in a bin that we will fabricate which is shown in figure 8. Our plan for
collecting the waste materials is to place trash bin or plastic which is shown in (figure 9) around the
canteen and near the trees area so that after the trash bin or plastic is full we will take them to the
main collection bin which is shown in (figure 8) and we will divide it the waste materials by tree the
green and brown ingredients and the third one will be the ones that is not useful for composting.
We will collect the waste materials from Monday to Saturday and after collecting the waste
materials in a week we will now shred the waste materials.
3.3 SHREDDING THE WASTE MATERIALS
FIGURE 10. COMPOST SHREDDER
Compost shredders are used produce large quantities of compost from garden waste. They help speed up
the composting process. Compost shredders can shred garden plants, piles of leaves, vegetable waste etc.
into instant mulch or compost. Powerful compost shredders can shred thick tree pruning and branches.
Goggles, gloves, breathing gauze and ear protectors should be worn while using a compost shredder.
Compost shredders are available in sizes ranging from light use models to high powered models. The
output of a compost shredder is directly related to its engine size. [1]
After collecting all the waste materials we will now shred the waste materials into pieces to help to speed
up the composting process and to be able to mix the green and brown ingredients easily. First we
will shred all the brown ingredients and second we will shred the green ingredients. The design of
our shredder will be a mechanical bicycle type design where the blades that we will use are
sharpened steel bar the one they use in paper cutting. The first step in using our design shedder is
to drop all the collect waste materials at the top with a sliding plate which you can see from [figure
10]. After it is drop the waste materials will slide down and pass through the blades once it is passed
the waste materials will be shred into pieces and fall to the exit holes.
Once all the materials are shred we will now collect all the shred waste and mix it using our mixer.
3.4 MIXING THE WASTE MATERIALS
FIGURE 11. COMPOST MIXER
A compost mixer combines and aerates compost materials, such as kitchen scraps and yard waste, for
faster conversion into nutrient rich soil. The biggest advantage to using a mixer is that it breaks up chunks
of material that may become odoriferous in the pile.
The compost mixer comes in four basic styles; center axle-mounted drums, base-mounted rolling drums,
rolling spheres and crank-operated drums. The type of compost tumbler a person chooses to use is
dependent upon what he intends to do with the compost. Each one has its advantages and disadvantages.
The center-axle mounted drum tumbler rests on a frame slightly above the ground. It mixes the compost as it rotates
around a center axis. Operating this compost mixer requires a person to simply spin it. The advantage to
this mixer is that it is easy to operate. [2]
After shredding all the waste materials we will now collect all the shred waste materials and placed them in our
mixer. Our mixer design is called the center axle mounted drum tumbler so that the rotation is around the
center axis and easily to collect the waste after it was mix. The step that we will do in mixing the waste
materials is by first placing the brown ingredients and then we will place the green ingredients. We will not
completely fill the mixer drum so that we the brown and green ingredients can mix properly and also to
rotate is easily.
3.5 COMPOSTING THE WASTE MATERIALS
FIGURE 12. COMPOST TUMBLER
A rotating compost bin, also referred to as a compost tumbler, is a great way to speed up the composting
process by allowing a more frequent stirring and aeration. Many people use a conventional compost bin
to turn leftover food scraps into fertilizer, but the process can take months, and must frequently be turned
over with a pitchfork or rake to aerate, and encourage the breakdown of the food. Rotating compost bins
place the bin horizontally on a stand, with a handle that makes the bin easy to turn.
With every turn of the rotating compost bin, the food begins to break down more quickly — the bins retain
moisture and heat, and keep the food mixed well. Some say that using a rotating compost bin can cut the
time it takes for food scraps to turn into compost from a few months to a few weeks. Most rotating compost
bins are large plastic or metal bins with a small door on the side that can be latched closed, along with small
holes for venting.
There are many benefits to using a rotating compost bin as compared to a traditional compost bin or
barrel, or even a compost pile. The rotating bins remain closed, keeping the odors inside. In addition, once
the bin is closed, latched, and up off the ground, it becomes much more difficult for an animal to get into
and make a mess. Composting in general is a great way to make natural fertilizer for a garden, and it also
keeps garbage out of the dump, which is extremely beneficial for the environment.
Another benefit to using a rotating compost bin is that you can purchase or make one in any shape or size.
Even if you live in a town, a small rotating compost bin outside can produce great organic fertilizer without
smelling up the neighborhood. In general, compost bins should be kept in a sunny area if possible, and
most people advise against adding meat or dairy products to the compost — but egg shells work very well.
Other materials that might be added include vegetables, grass clippings, coffee grounds, fruit, and even
paper. Search online for comprehensive lists on what can go into a compost bin. [3]
So after shredding and mixing the waste materials we will now place it to the compost tumbler and wait
until it decompose. While the waste materials are place in the tumbler some process must be done to
speed up the composting period and some additives must also be add like water to keep the moist inside
the tumbler and the use of an enzyme to reduce the bad odor smell inside the tumbler. We will turn our
tumbler once a day to keep air entering to the tumbler and place it on a sunny area for fast composting
period.
3.6 GNATT CHART OF SCHEDULE
The first three week of this study is intended for designing and preparation of our project. We will study the
process of composting that is performed here in the Philippines and also to other countries mainly
that is been done in schools or universities. This will also include the planning stage and the
development of the ideas for future activities.
After finalizing the planning stage and designing we will now proceed for the preparation of composting in
our school and surveying the amounts of waste materials used in schools. 2 weeks will be allotted for
this stage.
After all the things are settled, we will be starting our fabrication and composting of waste materials. 12
weeks (5th week-17th week) will be allotted for this stage.
Weeks 18-20 will be allotted for the conclusions and possible recommendations. The following weeks will be
allotted for further consultations and revisions.
3.7 ACTIVITY RESOURCE CHARTS:
The Materials needed for the Preparation stage are writing materials like bond paper and articles about the
methods of composting and its process. This will serve as references for the guide of our composting
process. Then, for the inquiries to other school and composting establishment, the use of telephone and
computers are beneficial and useful. This can be done either at home or at school. On this stage, Food
expense is the only aspect needed for finance.
Moving unto the next activity which is the initial visitation or verification of the composting projects here in
the Philippines, firstly, a visitation permit is needed to legalize the field trip. Then, this permit is needed
same with recording materials such as notebook, pen and etc. for the actual visitation of supplier of airbag
and also the testing of airbags. Car and Gasoline expenses are needed in order to push this stage.
In preparation for the observation and data gathering stage, materials for this stage should be prepared.
Computer will be a functional stuff in making materials for data gathering such as the checklist and etc.
Data Gathering follows and on this stage useful tools such as video cam, pen and other recording
paraphernalia are needed. A checklist can be made to record data. Gas and Food expenses should also be
considered.
After all the data had been gathered, it should be interpreted by summarizing all these data. Computer and
calculator are needed to interpret these data and also to compute for the given objectives in testing the
data. After that, these data could be summarized and Conclusions, Generalizations and Recommendations
could be formulated out of these methodical measures.
A record notebook will be used to document the whole study. This will act as a supportive document as our
study progresses.
3.7.1 ACTIVITY RESOURCE TABLE:
TABLE 1: ACTIVITY RESOURCE TABLE
PROCESS OR ACTIVITY
MATERIAL
EQUIPMENT/TOOLS
1. DESIGNING
Bond paper, ball pens, Laptop/printers
EXPENSES
VENUE
FOOD EXPENSES
SCHOOL/HOUSE
Pencils
2.CANVASSINGOF
Bond paper, ball pens, Laptop/printers/internet FOOD EXPENSES
MATERIALS
Pencils
3. FABRICATION
Bond paper, ball pens, MACHINES/FABRICATING FOOD EXPENSES/LABOR SCHOOL/WORKSHOP
Pencils
4.TESTING
/ telehone
TOOLS
Bond paper, ball pens, Laptop/printers/internet FOOD EXPENSES
SCHOOL
Pencils
5. DATA GATHERING
Bond paper, ball pens, Laptop/printers/internet FOOD EXPENSES
SCHOOL
Pencils
6. CONCLUSION
Bond paper, ball pens, Laptop/printers/internet FOOD EXPENSES
RECOMMENDATION
Pencils
7. REVISIONS/
Bond paper, ball pens, Laptop/printers/internet FOOD EXPENSES
PRESENTATIONS
Pencils
SCHOOL
SCHOOL
3.8 COSTING ESTIMATES
The estimate cost for our compost project is 8-10 thousand pesos.
Table 2: Projected Expenditures
ITEMS
1.
MATERIALS
A. Drums
B. HInges
C. Srews
D. Galvanized tube
E. Steel bar
F. Shovel
G. Screens
H. Wires
I. Hollow blocks
J. Cement
2. TRANSPORTATION
TOTAL
COST