Breaking Strength and Elongation Properties of Polyester
Woven Fabrics on the Basis of Filament Fineness
Hatice Kübra Kaynak, PhD1, Osman Babaarslan, PhD2
1
Gaziantep University, Textile Engineering Department, Gaziantep TURKEY
2
Çukurova University, Textile Engineering Department, Adana TURKEY
Correspondence to:
Hatice Kubra Kaynak email: tuluce@gantep.edu.tr
ABSTRACT
Woven fabrics produced from microfilament yarns
are superior to conventional filament fabrics in rain
clothes, tents, parachutes, sails, wind-proof clothes,
sleeping bags, filters, and surgical gowns due to their
distinguishing properties such as good filtration,
barrier effect against weather conditions, and light
weight. Breaking strength and elongation are
important and decisive parameters for these end uses
since low strength properties shorten the useful life
time as well disable the functionality of these
products. In this study, breaking strength and
elongation properties of microfilament woven fabrics
are investigated in comparison to conventional
filament fabrics. Three different weave types are used
as 1/1 Plain, 3/2 Twill, and 4/1 Satin. Four different
weft setts and five different filament finenesses are
applied for every weave type. In doing so, 60 woven
fabric samples are produced. Important influences of
weft sett and filament fineness are observed on weft
direction breaking strength. Analysis of variance
(ANOVA) results are used to interpret the
experimental data.
by different constructional parameters [20]. The
desired strength property of a woven fabric for a
particular end use can be obtained by applying the
appropriate fabric construction such as weave type
and yarn sett. In addition, by changing these
parameters, a strength property can be optimized and
negative parameters can be offset. Many researchers
studied the strength properties of polyester filament
woven fabrics [12, 19, 21-26]. Apart from the
previous studies, in this study the breaking strength
and elongation properties of polyester filament
woven fabrics are investigated on the basis of
filament fineness and weft sett. For this aim, the
effects of filament fineness on breaking strength and
elongation are investigated for different weave types
and different weft sett values. ANOVA are conducted
to determine the statistical importance of weft sett
and filament fineness on breaking strength and
elongation properties for three different weave types.
MATERIALS AND METHOD
This study is focused on the effects of filament
fineness and weft sett on breaking strength and
elongation of 100% polyester filament woven fabrics.
Polyester microfilament textured yarns of 110 dtex
with 0.33, 0.57, and 0.76 dtex filament fineness and
conventional polyester textured yarns of 110 dtex
with 1.14 and 3.05 dtex filament fineness are chosen.
These yarns are used only in the weft direction. For
warp yarns, 83 dtex polyester yarn with 1.14 dtex
filament fineness is used. Yarn tenacity and
elongation of weft yarns are determined according to
ISO 2062: 2009 [27] and given in Table I.
INTRODUCTION
Filament woven fabrics are used in many textiles
such as; casual wear, rain clothes, tents, parachutes,
sails, wind-proof clothes, sleeping bags, filters, and
surgical
gowns.
Fabrics
produced
from
microfilaments are superior to conventional filament
fabrics due to properties such as good filtration, an
effective barrier against weather conditions, and light
weight. A microfilament can be defined as a filament
finer than 1 dtex or 1 denier [1-8]. In the literature,
there are some experimental studies which deal with
the performance properties of microfilament woven
fabrics [9-19]. Strength properties are decisive
parameters for filament fabric end uses because low
strength properties shorten the useful life time as well
disables the functionality of these products. It must
be considered that strength properties of woven
fabrics is a complex phenomenon and can be affected
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
Volume 10, Issue 4 – 2015
TABLE I. Strength and elongation properties of weft yarns.
Weft yarn filament fineness, dtex
0.33
0.57
0.76
1.14
3.05
Yarn tenacity,
cN/Tex
Yarn breaking
elongation, %
55
4.2
4.0
3.7
3.8
3.8
23
25
19
22
18
http://www.jeffjournal.org
Three different weave types of 1/1 Plain, 3/2 Twill,
and 4/1 Satin are chosen for this study. For each
weave type, four different weft sett values are applied
considering the weaveability limitations. The highest
and the lowest weft sett values for the weave types
are determined by production trials. Warp sett is 77
warps/cm for plain weave samples and 85 warps/cm
for twill and satin weave samples. In doing so, 60
woven fabric samples are produced. To obtain
dimensional stability, a thermal fixation process is
applied to samples at 195ºC with 25m/min process
speed before the desizing process. Structural
properties of sample fabrics after thermal fixation and
desizing processes are determined according to ISO
7211-2: 1984, ISO 7211-3: 1984, ISO 3801: 1977,
and ISO 5084: 1996 [28-31] and the results are given
in Table II.
TABLE II. Structural features of fabrics.
Weft yarn
Weft sett,
filament
wefts/cm
fineness,
P
T
S
dtex
30
41
43
0.33
30
41
43
0.57
30
41
43
0.76
30
41
43
1.14
30
41
43
3.05
32
43
45
0.33
32
43
45
0.57
32
43
45
0.76
32
43
45
1.14
32
43
45
3.05
34
45
47
0.33
34
45
47
0.57
34
45
47
0.76
34
45
47
1.14
34
45
47
3.05
36
47
49
0.33
36
47
49
0.57
36
47
49
0.76
36
47
49
1.14
36
47
49
3.05
P:Plain, T:Twill, S:Satin
Fabric weight,
g/m²
Fabric thickness,
mm
P
T
S
P
T
S
P
T
S
P
T
S
114
113
111
112
117
117
116
115
116
118
121
120
118
120
119
123
121
120
122
121
130
129
126
128
125
133
132
130
130
128
137
135
132
133
131
141
138
136
136
134
130
130
128
129
129
133
133
132
131
132
136
136
134
132
133
138
140
138
139
136
0.24
0.24
0.23
0.23
0.25
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.23
0.24
0.22
0.22
0.21
0.22
0.24
0.21
0.22
0.21
0.22
0.23
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.23
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.23
0.23
0.22
0.22
0.23
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.23
0.23
0.22
0.22
0.22
0.23
0.23
0.22
0.23
0.23
0.23
0.23
0.23
0.23
0.22
0.23
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
In this study, the breaking strength and elongation
properties of polyester filament woven fabrics are
determined. All fabric samples are conditioned
according to ISO 139 before testing and tests are
performed under standard conditions of 20±2ºC and
65±4% humidity [32]. Breaking strength and
elongation properties are determined according to
ISO 13934-1 [33]. Design-Expert (8.0.7.1) statistical
software is used to interpret the experimental data. A
full factorial design with two replicates at each
design point is constructed for these statistical
analyses. A full factorial design is chosen in order to
investigate the effect of a factor at different levels of
the other factor. This provides higher confidence for
the results. At the same time, a full factorial design
enables determination of interactions between
filament fineness and weft sett for this study.
ANOVA is performed to determine the significant
interactions between filament fineness, weft sett, and
breaking strength and elongation for all weave types.
Weft
crimp, %
Warp
crimp, %
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Breaking Strength
Filament fineness and weft sett are differentiated for
only the weft direction. The breaking strength results
are analyzed only for the weft direction. Weft
direction breaking strength results are given in
Figures 1, 2, and 3 for plain, twill, and satin weave
types, respectively. Warp direction breaking strength
results are given in Table III.
FIGURE 1. Weft direction breaking strength of plain samples.
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
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A consistent trend of having higher fabric breaking
strength values for finer filaments is obvious from
Figure 1 for all weft sett values. It is a known fact
that yarn strength is the foremost parameter on fabric
breaking strength. If the yarn strength values are
observed from Table I, it is seen that 0.33 dtex and
0.57 dtex filament yarns have higher yarn strength
values than that of other yarns. Therefore, the higher
fabric breaking strength values are estimated for
these yarns. On the other hand, 0.76 dtex, 1.14 dtex,
and 3.05 dtex yarns have the same yarn strength
value whereas higher fabric breaking strength values
are obtained with finer filaments. 0.76 dtex samples
exhibit nearly 10% higher fabric breaking strength
than 3.05 dtex samples. As the filament fineness
decreases, the number of filaments in the yarn cross
section increases. Thus, the total specific surface area
of filaments in the yarn cross section increases as the
filaments get finer. In other words, the 0.76 dtex
sample has a higher total specific surface area than
that of the 1.14 dtex sample and the 1.14 dtex sample
has higher specific surface area than that of the 3.05
dtex samples. This situation causes a higher cohesion
force for finer filaments in the fabric structure during
tensioning. Consequently, this provides a probable
reason for higher breaking strength values of finer
filaments for different weft sett values. Besides, an
increase is observed by increased weft sett values for
all filament fineness types. This is a probable result
of a higher number of yarns and interlacings in a unit
cell. The phenomenon was observed in a former
study done on polyester filament woven fabrics [22].
Nevertheless, for 0.76 dtex, 1.14 dtex, and 3.05 dtex
samples which have the same yarn strength value, the
higher fabric breaking strength values are seen for
finer filaments. There is nearly a 6% fabric breaking
strength difference between the 0.76 dtex and 3.05
dtex samples. Similarly as with plain samples, due to
increased total specific surface area of filaments in
the yarn cross section, a higher cohesion force for
finer filaments occurs in the fabric structure during
tensioning. Consequently, this provides a probable
reason for higher fabric breaking strength caused by
finer filaments in the yarn cross-section. On the other
hand, a regular increase is seen in weft direction
breaking strength with higher weft sett values due to
a higher number of yarns and interlacings in the unit
cell as observed in a similar manner with plain
samples.
FIGURE 3. Weft direction breaking strength of satin samples.
It is seen from Figure 3 that, the higher breaking
strength values are observed for samples with finer
filaments for all weft sett values. As seen for plain
and twill samples, the higher fabric breaking strength
values are observed for 0.33 dtex and 0.57 dtex
samples due to higher yarn strength. On the other
hand, for 0.76 dtex, 1.14 dtex, and 3.05 dtex filament
fineness values, the higher fabric breaking strength
values are observed for finer filaments which have
similar yarn breaking strength. 0.76 dtex samples
exhibit nearly 5% higher fabric breaking strength
than 3.05 dtex samples. This is believed to be caused
by a higher total specific surface area and a higher
cohesion force for finer filaments in the fabric
structure during tensioning. Also, a considerable
increase of fabric breaking strength is determined
with higher weft sett due to a higher number of yarns
and interlacings in the unit cell.
FIGURE 2. Weft direction breaking strength of twill samples.
Figure 2 exhibits the breaking strength of twill weave
samples. Higher breaking strength values are seen for
finer filaments. Similarly as with plain weave
samples, a part of this increase is a result of a higher
yarn strength value of the 0.33 and 0.57 dtex filament
yarns.
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
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TABLE III. Warp direction breaking strength (N).
Plain
Weft sett
(wefts/cm)
3/2 Twill
0,33
0,57
0,76
1,14
3,05
1171,8
1201,3
1231,1
1223,5
1165,9
32
1211,9
1219,5
1217,1
1214,0
1192,0
34
1220,7
1191,4
1203,2
1178,9
1171,8
36
1150,0
1199,1
1177,4
1186,3
1193,1
Filament fineness, dtex
0,76
1,14
3,05
41
1372,6
1363,2
1380,6
1357,6
1374,2
43
1362,5
1372,4
1370,4
1377,5
1368,4
45
1359,8
1363,1
1368,2
1360,2
1361,0
47
1321,5
1375,8
1341,6
1376,7
1365,6
Weft sett
(wefts/cm)
4/1 Satin
Filament fineness, dtex
30
Weft sett
(wefts/cm)
Breaking Elongation
Weft direction breaking elongation of plain, twill,
and satin weave samples are seen in Figures 4, 5, and
6, respectively. Similarly as with breaking strength
results, breaking elongation values are illustrated
only for weft direction. Warp direction breaking
elongation values are also given in Table V.
0,33
0,57
Filament fineness, dtex
0,76
1,14
3,05
43
1357,4
0,33
1358,4
0,57
1376,2
1353,1
1325,9
45
1369,6
1355,0
1351,7
1359,6
1360,7
47
1366,0
1349,0
1369,5
1368,7
1374,5
49
1330,4
1377,5
1372,9
1333,0
1352,6
FIGURE 4. Weft direction breaking elongation of plain samples.
Figure 4 shows the weft direction breaking
elongation of plain weave samples. There is no
regular effect of filament fineness on fabric breaking
elongation. In addition, 0.33 dtex and 0.57 dtex
filament yarns have higher yarn breaking elongation
values whereas an increase in fabric breaking
elongation has not been determined for these
samples. Besides, the warp direction breaking
elongation values are considerably higher than those
of the weft direction. This is a probable result of
extremely high crimp values of warp direction in
plain weave samples. In general, as the amount of
original crimp increases, the extent of the crimp
interchange region increases, thus increasing fabric
elongation to failure [34]. On the other hand, a minor
decrease of breaking elongation is observed for
increasing weft sett values.
Warp direction breaking strength results are seen in
Table III. A consistent trend is not observed for warp
direction breaking strength due to the fact that
filament fineness and weft sett are differentiated for
only weft direction.
ANOVA results for breaking strength of samples are
given in Table IV. According to ANOVA results,
factors which have a P value below 0.05 are
statistically significant on breaking strength with
95% confidence. Otherwise, P values above 0.05
indicates an insignificant factor.
TABLE IV. P Values of ANOVA for breaking strength.
Weave
Type
Plain
Twill
Satin
Factors
Filament fineness
Weft sett
Filament fineness
Weft sett
Filament fineness
Weft sett
Weft
direction
< 0.0001
< 0.0001
< 0.0001
< 0.0001
< 0.0001
< 0.0001
Warp
direction
0.1582
0.0255
0.2471
0.1721
0.1899
0.4532
It is seen from Table IV that, in the weft direction, the
filament fineness and weft sett have a statistically
significant effect on breaking strength contrary to the
warp direction.
FIGURE 5. Weft direction breaking elongation of twill samples.
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
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TABLE VI. P Values of ANOVA results for breaking elongation.
Breaking elongation of twill weave samples are seen
in Figure 5. A regular tendency of neither increase
nor decrease is observed due to filament fineness for
twill weave samples. On the other hand 0.33 dtex and
0.57 dtex samples which have higher yarn breaking
elongation values, do not exhibit higher fabric
breaking elongation values. In other words, the effect
of yarn breaking elongation on fabric breaking
elongation is not observed for twill weave samples.
Besides, the weft sett has no effect on breaking
elongation, contrary to plain samples.
Weave
Type
Plain
Twill
Satin
Plain
3/2 Twill
Weft sett
(wefts/cm)
41
43
45
47
0.33
33.5
33.1
34.0
36.9
4/1 Satin
TABLE V. Warp direction breaking elongation (%).
Weft sett
(wefts/cm)
43
45
47
49
0.33
28.9
29.8
31.4
30.3
Filament fineness, dtex
0.57 0.76
1.14
36.6 36.6
37.0
37.6 37.2
37.0
37.4 38.3
37.7
39.9 37.9
39.0
Filament fineness, dtex
0.57 0.76
1.14
31.2 30.0
29.6
32.0 29.7
30.2
30.1 29.2
29.4
32.7 29.7
30.7
Filament fineness, dtex
0.57 0.76
1.14
28.7 30.4
28.3
28.3 28.4
29.1
29.3 30.5
28.7
30.0 30.6
28.5
Warp
Direction
0.0376
0.5430
0.0035
0.3346
0.4039
0.1592
CONCLUSION
For all weave types, filament fineness and weft sett
have a considerable effect on weft direction breaking
strength. Higher fabric breaking strength results are
observed for higher weft sett and finer filaments in
fabric structure. With respect to filament fineness, a
part of this effect originates from higher yarn strength
values of 0.33 dtex and 0.57 dtex filament yarns.
Nevertheless, the effect of filament fineness on weft
direction breaking strength is observed for other
levels of filament fineness (0.76 dtex, 1.14 dtex and
3.05 dtex) which have the same yarn strength values.
0.76 dtex samples have 5-10% higher fabric breaking
strength values than those of 3.05 dtex samples for all
samples. This is a probable result of a higher
cohesion force between filaments due to higher total
specific surface area of finer filaments in the yarn
cross section. It is an important result to manage this
increase in fabric breaking strength with only
changes in filament fineness, keeping other
parameters constant [35]. With respect to statistical
analysis, weft sett and filament fineness have a
significant effect on weft direction breaking strength
for all weave types. Besides, the contribution of weft
sett on breaking strength is higher than that of
filament fineness according to statistical analyses.
Breaking elongation of satin weave samples are seen
in Figure 6. There is no obvious effect of weft sett
and filament fineness on fabric breaking elongation.
In addition, the effect of yarn breaking elongation on
fabric breaking elongation is not observed, similar to
plain and twill samples.
0.33
40.0
38.4
39.5
38.8
Filament fineness
Weft sett
Filament fineness
Weft sett
Filament fineness
Weft sett
Weft
Direction
0.0688
0.0468
0.0012
0.6803
0.0006
0.6528
It is seen from Table VI that the effects of weft sett
and filament fineness on fabric breaking elongation is
generally found to be statistically insignificant.
FIGURE 6. Weft direction breaking elongation of satin samples.
Weft sett
(wefts/cm)
30
32
34
36
Factors
3.05
40.5
40.4
38.5
39.4
The filament fineness and weft sett have no
considerable effect on fabric breaking elongation.
Also, yarn breaking elongation does not have a
significant effect on fabric breaking elongation.
There is a considerable difference between weft and
warp direction breaking elongation values of plain
weave types due to extremely higher crimp values of
warp direction than weft direction in plain weave
samples.
3.05
31.8
31.6
32.6
31.9
3.05
30.2
30.3
30.7
30.3
ANOVA results for breaking elongation are given in
Table VI.
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
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[26] Kumpikaite, E.; “Influence of fabric Structure
on the character of fabric breakage”, Fibres
and Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol.68, 2008,
p.44-46.
[27] ISO 2062:2009 - Textiles - Yarns from
packages - Determination of single-end
breaking force and elongation at break using
constant rate of extension (CRE) tester.
[28] ISO 7211-2:1984 - Textiles - Woven fabrics Construction - Methods of analysis - Part 2:
Determination of number of threads per unit
length.
[29] ISO 7211-3:1984 - Textiles - Woven fabrics Construction - Methods of analysis - Part 3:
Determination of crimp of yarn in fabric.
[30] ISO 3801:1977 - Textiles - Woven fabrics Determination of mass per unit length and
mass per unit area.
[31] ISO 5084:1996 - Textiles - Determination of
thickness of textiles and textile products.
[32] ISO 139:2005 - Textiles - Standard atmospheres
for conditioning and testing.
[33] ISO 13934-1: Determination of maximum force
and elongation at maximum force using the
strip method by CRE (Constant rate of
extension).
[34] Realff, M.L.; “Identifying local deformation
phenomenon during woven fabric uniaxial
tensile loading”, Textile Research Journal,
Vol.64, 1994, p.135-141.
[35] Kaynak, H.K.; “Investigation of The
Performance Properties of Fabrics Woven
with Microfilament Yarns”, 2013, Çukurova
University, PhD Thesis.
AUTHORS’ ADDRESSES
Hatice Kübra Kaynak, PhD
Gaziantep University
Textile Engineering Department
27310 Gaziantep
TURKEY
Osman Babaarslan, PhD
Çukurova University
Textile Engineering Department
01330 Adana
TURKEY
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
Volume 10, Issue 4 – 2015
61
http://www.jeffjournal.org