8111 version 4 28-Jun-16 1 of 4 LEATHER - CUTTING AND CLOSING Make a gathered seam for footwear using an industrial sewing machine level: 3 credit: 12 planned review date: November 2005 sub-field: Footwear and Leather Trades purpose: People credited with this unit standard are able to: set up an industrial sewing machine and attachments for sewing gathered seams; maintain the machine and identify sewing faults; and stitch a gathered seam to specified industry performance standards and company quality standards. entry information: Open. accreditation option: Evaluation of documentation and visit by NZQA and industry. moderation option: A centrally established and directed national moderation system has been set up by Competenz. special notes: 1 Specified industry performance is 55% BSI performance or equivalent. BSI Performance is the British Standards Institute internationally recognised performance system (BS3138) where 100% is the standard expected from a competent fully qualified performer using the correct methods and taking the allowed rest. Other comparable rating or performance systems such as the 60/80 system are acceptable, with the appropriate performance adjustment. 2 Company safety requirements must conform to the Health and Safety in Employment Act 1992 and Health and Safety in Employment Regulations 1995. 3 A gathered seam is where the length of the edges of the material to be joined are not equal. An example is a moccasin 'seam'. 4 Competence should be demonstrated using leather or a material requiring similar handling techniques. 8111 version 4 28-Jun-16 2 of 4 LEATHER - CUTTING AND CLOSING Make a gathered seam for footwear using an industrial sewing machine 5 Competence will usually be demonstrated on a lockstitch machine, however, competence using a chainstitch machine is also allowed. 6 It is recommended that people be credited with Unit 8108, Set up and use a single needle lockstitch sewing machine in the footwear industry, or have demonstrated equivalent knowledge and skills. Elements and Performance Criteria element 1 Set up an industrial sewing machine and attachments for sewing gathered seams. performance criteria 1.1 Stitch length meets product specification and/or company requirements. 1.2 Needle meets product specification and/or company requirements. 1.3 Thread meets product specification and/or company requirements. 1.4 Tension meets product specification. 1.5 Received work is marked according to product specification and company practice. 1.6 Specific features of machine used are described in relation to function and operation. Range: 1.7 company equipment. Attachments used to assist gathering are described in relation to function and operation. Range: attachments according to make and type of machine. 8111 version 4 28-Jun-16 3 of 4 LEATHER - CUTTING AND CLOSING Make a gathered seam for footwear using an industrial sewing machine element 2 Maintain the machine and identify sewing faults. performance criteria 2.1 Machine is cleaned and oiled according to company requirements and manufacturer's recommendations 2.2 Thread faults are identified and their effect is explained. Range: 2.3 tension variation, fraying, breaking. Stitch faults are identified and their causes explained. Range: slip stitch – worn needle, poor quality thread, incorrect timing; lock not in centre of material – tension adjustment; laying of stitch – incorrect needle type, worn needle. element 3 Stitch gathered seam. performance criteria 3.1 Parts are picked up and presented to the machine according to job instructions. 3.2 Threads are cut according to job specification. 3.3 Work is completed to specified industry performance standard. 3.4 Work is completed to company quality standards. Range: stitch appearance, even start and finish, even seam width, thread ends trimmed to specified length, even gathering, correct to marks. 3.5 Documentation is completed to company requirements and practice. 3.6 Work practices meet company safety requirements. 8111 version 4 28-Jun-16 4 of 4 LEATHER - CUTTING AND CLOSING Make a gathered seam for footwear using an industrial sewing machine Comments on this unit standard Please contact Competenz info@competenz.org.nz if you wish to suggest changes to the content of this unit standard. Please Note Providers must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority or a delegated interinstitutional body before they can register credits from assessment against unit standards or deliver courses of study leading to that assessment. Industry Training Organisations must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority before they can register credits from assessment against unit standards. Accredited providers and Industry Training Organisations assessing against unit standards must engage with the moderation system that applies to those standards. Accreditation requirements and an outline of the moderation system that applies to this standard are outlined in the Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP). The AMAP also includes useful information about special requirements for providers wishing to develop education and training programmes, such as minimum qualifications for tutors and assessors, and special resource requirements. This unit standard is covered by AMAP 0030 which can be accessed at http://www.nzqa.govt.nz/framework/search/index.do.