8111 version 4
28-Jun-16
1 of 4
LEATHER - CUTTING AND CLOSING
Make a gathered seam for footwear
using an industrial sewing machine
level:
3
credit:
12
planned review date:
November 2005
sub-field:
Footwear and Leather Trades
purpose:
People credited with this unit standard are able to: set up an
industrial sewing machine and attachments for sewing
gathered seams; maintain the machine and identify sewing
faults; and stitch a gathered seam to specified industry
performance standards and company quality standards.
entry information:
Open.
accreditation option:
Evaluation of documentation and visit by NZQA and industry.
moderation option:
A centrally established and directed national moderation
system has been set up by Competenz.
special notes:
1
Specified industry performance is 55% BSI
performance or equivalent. BSI Performance is the
British Standards Institute internationally recognised
performance system (BS3138) where 100% is the
standard expected from a competent fully qualified
performer using the correct methods and taking the
allowed rest. Other comparable rating or performance
systems such as the 60/80 system are acceptable, with
the appropriate performance adjustment.
2
Company safety requirements must conform to the
Health and Safety in Employment Act 1992 and Health
and Safety in Employment Regulations 1995.
3
A gathered seam is where the length of the edges of
the material to be joined are not equal. An example is
a moccasin 'seam'.
4
Competence should be demonstrated using leather or
a material requiring similar handling techniques.
8111 version 4
28-Jun-16
2 of 4
LEATHER - CUTTING AND CLOSING
Make a gathered seam for footwear
using an industrial sewing machine
5
Competence will usually be demonstrated on a
lockstitch machine, however, competence using a
chainstitch machine is also allowed.
6
It is recommended that people be credited with Unit
8108, Set up and use a single needle lockstitch sewing
machine in the footwear industry, or have
demonstrated equivalent knowledge and skills.
Elements and Performance Criteria
element 1
Set up an industrial sewing machine and attachments for sewing gathered seams.
performance criteria
1.1
Stitch length meets product specification and/or company requirements.
1.2
Needle meets product specification and/or company requirements.
1.3
Thread meets product specification and/or company requirements.
1.4
Tension meets product specification.
1.5
Received work is marked according to product specification and company
practice.
1.6
Specific features of machine used are described in relation to function and
operation.
Range:
1.7
company equipment.
Attachments used to assist gathering are described in relation to function and
operation.
Range:
attachments according to make and type of machine.
8111 version 4
28-Jun-16
3 of 4
LEATHER - CUTTING AND CLOSING
Make a gathered seam for footwear
using an industrial sewing machine
element 2
Maintain the machine and identify sewing faults.
performance criteria
2.1
Machine is cleaned and oiled according to company requirements and
manufacturer's recommendations
2.2
Thread faults are identified and their effect is explained.
Range:
2.3
tension variation, fraying, breaking.
Stitch faults are identified and their causes explained.
Range:
slip stitch – worn needle, poor quality thread, incorrect timing;
lock not in centre of material – tension adjustment;
laying of stitch – incorrect needle type, worn needle.
element 3
Stitch gathered seam.
performance criteria
3.1
Parts are picked up and presented to the machine according to job instructions.
3.2
Threads are cut according to job specification.
3.3
Work is completed to specified industry performance standard.
3.4
Work is completed to company quality standards.
Range:
stitch appearance, even start and finish, even seam width, thread
ends trimmed to specified length, even gathering, correct to
marks.
3.5
Documentation is completed to company requirements and practice.
3.6
Work practices meet company safety requirements.
8111 version 4
28-Jun-16
4 of 4
LEATHER - CUTTING AND CLOSING
Make a gathered seam for footwear
using an industrial sewing machine
Comments on this unit standard
Please contact Competenz info@competenz.org.nz if you wish to suggest changes to the
content of this unit standard.
Please Note
Providers must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority or a delegated interinstitutional body before they can register credits from assessment against unit standards
or deliver courses of study leading to that assessment.
Industry Training Organisations must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority before
they can register credits from assessment against unit standards.
Accredited providers and Industry Training Organisations assessing against unit
standards must engage with the moderation system that applies to those standards.
Accreditation requirements and an outline of the moderation system that applies to this
standard are outlined in the Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP). The
AMAP also includes useful information about special requirements for providers wishing to
develop education and training programmes, such as minimum qualifications for tutors
and assessors, and special resource requirements.
This unit standard is covered by AMAP 0030 which can be accessed at
http://www.nzqa.govt.nz/framework/search/index.do.