8112 version 4
28-Jun-16
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LEATHER - CUTTING AND CLOSING
Join two pieces of material to make a
sprung seam for footwear uppers
level:
3
credit:
6
planned review date:
November 2005
sub-field:
Footwear and Leather Trades
purpose:
People credited with this unit standard are able to: set up
sewing machine and attachments; maintain the machine and
identify sewing faults, and stitch sprung seams to specified
industry performance standards and company quality
standards.
entry information:
Open.
accreditation option:
Evaluation of documentation and visit by NZQA and industry.
moderation option:
A centrally established and directed national moderation
system has been set up by Competenz.
special notes:
1
Specified industry performance is 55% BSI
performance equivalent. BSI Performance is the British
Standards Institute internationally recognised
performance system (BS3138) where 100% is the
standard expected from a competent fully qualified
performer using the correct methods and taking the
allowed rest. Other comparable rating or performance
systems such as the 60/80 system are acceptable, with
the appropriate performance adjustment.
2
Company safety requirements must conform to the
Health and Safety in Employment Act 1992 and Health
and Safety in Employment Regulations 1995.
3
A sprung seam is a lap or butt seam where the shape
of the edges of the material to be joined do not conform
to each other, the material therefore is shaped by the
seaming and does not lie flat.
4
Competence should be demonstrated using leather or
a material requiring similar handling techniques.
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Join two pieces of material to make a
sprung seam for footwear uppers
5
Competence in sewing a sprung lap seam using a
single needle lockstitch sewing machine is required;
competence in sewing a sprung butt seam using a zig
zag machine may also be demonstrated.
6
It is recommended that people be credited with Unit
8108, Set up and use a single needle lockstitch sewing
machine in the footwear industry, or have
demonstrated equivalent knowledge and skills.
Elements and Performance Criteria
element 1
Set up sewing machine and attachments.
performance criteria
1.1
Stitch length meets product specification and/or company requirements.
1.2
Needle meets product specification and/or company requirements.
1.3
Thread meets product specification and/or company requirements.
1.4
Tension meets product specification.
1.5
Where required, received work is marked according to product specification
and company practice.
element 2
Maintain the machine and identify sewing faults.
performance criteria
2.1
Machine is cleaned and oiled according to company requirements and
manufacturer's recommendations
2.2
Thread faults are identified and their effect is explained.
8112 version 4
28-Jun-16
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LEATHER - CUTTING AND CLOSING
Join two pieces of material to make a
sprung seam for footwear uppers
Range:
2.3
tension variation, fraying, breaking.
Stitch faults are identified and their causes explained.
Range:
slip stitch – worn needle, poor quality thread, incorrect timing;
lock not in centre of material – tension adjustment;
laying of stitch – incorrect needle type, worn needle.
element 3
Stitch sprung seam.
performance criteria
3.1
Parts are picked up and presented to the machine according to job instructions.
3.2
Threads are cut according to product specification and/or company
requirements.
3.3
Work is completed to specified industry performance standard.
3.4
Work is completed to company quality standards.
Range:
stitch appearance, even start and finish, shape of seam, no
puckering, even seam width and/or correct to marks or notches,
thread ends trimmed to specified length.
3.5
Documentation is completed to company requirements and practice.
3.6
Work practices meet company safety requirements.
Comments on this unit standard
Please contact Competenz info@competenz.org.nz if you wish to suggest changes to the
content of this unit standard.
8112 version 4
28-Jun-16
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LEATHER - CUTTING AND CLOSING
Join two pieces of material to make a
sprung seam for footwear uppers
Please Note
Providers must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority or a delegated interinstitutional body before they can register credits from assessment against unit standards
or deliver courses of study leading to that assessment.
Industry Training Organisations must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority before
they can register credits from assessment against unit standards.
Accredited providers and Industry Training Organisations assessing against unit
standards must engage with the moderation system that applies to those standards.
Accreditation requirements and an outline of the moderation system that applies to this
standard are outlined in the Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP). The
AMAP also includes useful information about special requirements for providers wishing to
develop education and training programmes, such as minimum qualifications for tutors
and assessors, and special resource requirements.
This unit standard is covered by AMAP 0030 which can be accessed at
http://www.nzqa.govt.nz/framework/search/index.do.