Climb Strong
An Intelligent Approach to Elevating Climbing Performance
Steve Bechtel & Eric J. Hörst
ElementalGym.com
Training4Climbing.com
Sponsors:
Nicros.com
Sportiva.com
SterlingRope.com
Objectives
• Present science-based fundamentals of training for
climbing and elevating climbing performance.
• Encourage a targeted, results-based program for
improving your performance and quality of experience.
• Describe select exercises, techniques, and tactics that are
safe and uncommonly effective.
• Provide the framework for a practical, self-directed
program that works (ie. different from the masses).
• Present “smart training” strategies for developing
technique, mental skills, and physical capabilities.
Analysis of
Strengths & Weaknesses
Reasons for your current ability level:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Years of experience & frequency of climbing
Genetics (FOX 1996)
Importance of climbing
Knowledge of training principles and “right practice”
Quality of training & coaching
Level of self-awareness, mental control, & will power
Willingness to fail
Where you climb and how often you roadtrip
Climbing/training partners
The Rub
To elevate performance you
need to:
• Make a decision that you must
climb better!
• Increase importance of climbing
better & embrace necessary
changes
• Stretch boundaries (mental &
physical)--be willing to fail!
• Refine technique & expand
skills. Increase exposure to new
terrain and areas.
• Leverage new partnerships
• Train smarter (harder?)
The “Climbing
Performance Pie”
Self-Assessment:
• Which “piece” is your strength?
• Which “piece” is most holding you
back?
Components
of TFC
• Technique Training
• Physical Fitness Training
• Mental Training
• Training Support Activities
(injury prevention, nutrition,
rest, recovery aids)
Climb Strong – Self-Assessment
In taking this assessment, it’s best to read each question
once and then immediately select an answer. Don’t overanalyze
the questions, and resist the common tendency to cheat up on
your scores.
Circle the answer that most accurately describes your
current abilities and modus operandi. Each part consists of five
questions worth a total of 25 points.
Compare your scores in each part to identify the two or
three areas most holding you back—these would be the lowest
scoring parts of the assessment. Similarly, survey your answers
question by question to identify specific weaknesses that should
become the bull’s-eye of your conditioning program.
Part 1 - Evaluate Your Climbing
Experience
1. How long have you been climbing?
1—less than six months, 2—six to twelve months, 3—one to four years, 4—five to ten years, 5—
more than ten years
2. On average, how many days per month to do you climb (both indoors and outdoors)?
1—one day or less, 2—two or three days, 3—four to eight days, 4—nine to twelve days, 5—more
than twelve days
3. How many different climbing areas and gyms have you visited in the last year?
1—just one, 2—two to four, 3—five to nine, 4—ten to fifteen, 5—more than fifteen
4. How many of the following styles of climbing have you been active in over the last year:
bouldering, gym climbing, sport climbing, follow trad climbs, leading trad climbs, big
walls?
1—one or two, 2—three, 3—four, 4—five, 5—six
5. How many of the following types of climbing have you engaged in over the last three
months: slab climbing, face climbing, crack climbing, overhanging face climbing, pocket
climbing, roofs?
1—one or two, 2—three, 3—four, 4—five, 5—six
Part 2 - Evaluate Your Technical Skills
1. My footwork and overall technique deteriorate during the hardest part of a climb.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
2. Cracks, slabs, and roofs feel hard for the grade compared with a similarly graded
face climb.
1—almost always, 2—often, 4—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
3. I have difficulty finding midroute rest positions and shakeouts.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
4. On the typical climb, I feel like much of my body weight is hanging on my arms.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
5. On overhanging routes and roofs, I have difficulty finding the optimal body
position or keeping my feet from cutting loose.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
Part 3 - Evaluate Your Mental Skills
1. I visualize myself successfully climbing the route before I leave the ground.
1—seldom or never, 2—occasionally, 3—about half the time, 4—often, 5—almost always
2. I get anxious, tight, and hesitant as I climb into crux sequences.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
3. I miss hidden holds or blow a known sequence.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
4. I make excuses for why I might fail on a route before I even begin to climb.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
5. When lead climbing a safe route, I push myself to the complete limit and, if I fall, I
fall trying.
1—seldom or never, 2—occasionally, 3—about half the time, 4—often, 5—almost always
Part 4 - Evaluate Your Level of General
Conditioning
1. How many pounds (body fat or excessively bulky muscles) do you estimate you are from
your ideal climbing weight?
1—more than twenty, 2—ten to twenty, 3—five to ten, 4—just a few, 5—zero
2. How far could you jog (modest pace steady running) without stopping?
1—less than 0.5 mile, 2—0.5 - 1 mile, 3—1 - 2 miles, 4—3 - 5 miles, 5—more than 5 miles
3. How many pull-ups can you do in a single set?
1—women: one or none, men: less than five, 2—women: two to four, men: five to nine, 3—
women: five to nine, men: ten to nineteen, 4—women: 10 to 20, men: 20 to 30, 5—women: more
than 20, men: more than 30
4. How many push-ups can you do in a single set?
1—women: two or fewer, men: less than five, 2—women: three to six, men: five to fifteen, 3—
women: 7 to 15, men: 16 to 25, 4—women: 16 to 25, men: 26 to 40, 5—women: more than 25,
men: more than 40
5. How many Abdominal Crunches can you do in a single set (knees bent)?
1—less than ten, 2—ten to twenty, 3—twenty-one to forty-nine, 4—fifty to seventy-five, 5—more
than 75
Part 5 - Evaluate Your Sport-Specific
Conditioning
1. On overhanging routes with large holds, I pump out quickly and need to hang on
the rope.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
2. I have difficulty hanging on small, necessary-to-use holds.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
3. I find it difficult to hold a lock-off with one arm when I let go to advance the other
hand.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
4. Given a marginal midclimb rest, I can shake out and recover enough to complete
the route.
1—seldom or never, 2—occasionally, 3—about half the time, 4—often, 5—almost always
5. My maximum bouldering ability is:
1—V0 or V1, 2—V2 to V3, 3—V4 to V5, 4—V6 to V7, 5—V8 or above
Part 6 - Evaluate Your Injury Risk
1. I perform a warm-up activity and some stretching before climbing or training.
1—seldom or never, 2—occasionally, 3—about half the time, 4—often, 5—always
2. I climb hard on three or more consecutive days.
1—every week, 2—often, 3—a couple times per month, 4—once per month, 5—seldom or
never
3. When climbing, I experience elbow, shoulder, or finger pain.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—occasionally, 4—infrequently, 5—never
4. I engage in regular training of the antagonist push muscles.
1—never, 2—infrequently, 3—a few times a month, 4—once or twice a week, 5—twice a
week, religiously
5. I stop climbing or end a workout prematurely if I experience unusual joint or
tendon pain.
1—no, 3—sometimes, 5—yes
Part 7 - Evaluate Your Nutritional Habits
1. How often do you eat breakfast?
1—seldom or never, 3—about half the time, 5—every day
2. How often do you eat fast food or fried foods?
1—four or more days per week, 2—two to three days per week, 3—once a week, 4—once or
twice per month, 5—less than once per month
3. On average, how soon after a workout or the end of your climbing day do you consume
some carbohydrate and protein?
1—more than three hours, 2—two to three hours, 3—one to two hours, 4—thirty minutes to one
hour, 5—within thirty minutes
4. How many servings of fruits and vegetables do you consume per day?
1—zero or one, 2—two, 3—three, 4—four, 5—five or more
5. How often do you plan out your meals ahead of time for the purpose of eating for
performance and optimal recovery?
1—seldom or never, 2—once per week, 3—two or three days per week, 4—four to six days per
week, 5—every day
Part 8 - Evaluate Your Lifestyle and
Discipline
1. How many days per week do you engage in a physical activity such as climbing,
training, or another sport?
1—one, 2—two, 3—three, 4—four, 5—five
2. On average, how many hours sleep do you get each night?
1—less than five, 2—five to six, 3—six to seven, 4—seven to eight, 5—more than eight
3. How often do you pig out eating and drinking with little restraint?
1—3 or more days per week, 2—twice per week, 3—once per week, 4—once or twice per
month, 5—never
4. Do you smoke?
1—yes, daily, 3—occasionally, 5—no
5. When you set goals or begin a workout program, how often do you follow through
to successful completion?
1—seldom, 2—occasionally, 3—about half the time, 4—often, 5—almost always
Creating Your Assessment Profile
Using figure below, fill in the bar graphs according to your score in each part of the package
to plot the results to obtain a graphical profile. Take note of your three shortest bars. These
low-scoring areas represent the greatest constraints on your climbing performance.