Textiles Semester Test
1
Patterns and their Parts
• Pattern Envelope
• Front of the envelope – drawing or photos
of the design
– Several garment views
– Lists pattern number, size, and price
– Indicates if “easy”
2
• Reverse side of pattern envelope
– Shows how the garment looks from the back
– Lists amount of fabric and notions needed
3
Guide Sheet
• Guide sheet – gives step-by-step
information for cutting, marking and
sewing
• Has cutting layouts and general
information
• Shows hot to lengthen or shorten a pattern
4
• Guide sheet
• Has sewing directions and pictures
5
• Cutting layout – diagram that shows how
to arrange pattern pieces on fabric
• Easier to recognize and find the pattern
pieces you need
• Select the diagram that matches your
view, pattern size, and fabric width
6
• Sewing directions
• Step-by-step appear on the back of the
guide
• Fabric key – shows how shading and
texture indicate right and wrong sides of
fabric and interfacing or lining
7
• Pattern pieces
• Each piece is marked with a number or a
letter and with a specific name (collar
sleeve)
• Number of fabric pieces to be cut is
printed on the pattern piece
• Symbols and lines guide you during
cutting and sewing
8
Pattern Preparation
• 1. Remove the entire pattern from the
envelope.
• 2. on the guide sheet, circle the cutting
layout you’ll use.
• 3. select the pattern pieces for the view
you’re sewing
9
• 4. Fold the rest of the pattern pieces and
put them back into the envelope
• 5. Cut apart any pattern pieces printed
together on one large piece of tissue
paper
• 6. Write your name on the guide sheet,
pattern envelope, and pattern pieces
10
• 7. smooth out pattern pieces. Iron if
necessary
• 8. on a multi-sized pattern, mark cutting
lines for your size with a felt-tip pen
11
Preparing Fabric
• Preshrink Fabric
• Wash or dry-clean the fabric to prevent or
minimize later shrinkage
• Helps remove some fabric finishes that
cause stitching problems
12
Fabrics
• Washable
– Machine wash, tumble dry
• Hand-washable
– Fold the fabric and place in hot or warm water
for 30 minutes, tumble dry or dry flat
• Fabrics to be dry-cleaned
– Take to the cleaners or self-service dry
cleaner
13
Straightening the Grain
• Off grain – when crosswise and lengthwise
yarns are not at right angles
• If not straightened the finished garment
may twist or pull
• To straighten, pull on the true bias (pg
491)
• Refold and check for straightness
14
Pressing Fabric
• Press to remove all wrinkles
• Check to be sure center fold can be
pressed out
15
Laying Out the Pattern
• Cutting layout shows how to fold fabric
• Most fabric is folded with the right side in
• Pattern pieces are placed on the wrong
side of the fabric
• Stripes, plaids, and prints should be folded
right side out to match designs
16
• Lengthwise fold – fold fabric in half lengthwise
with right sides together
• Crosswise fold- fold fabric in half crosswise with
right sides together
• Double fold – fold fabric twice along the
lengthwise grain, right sides together
• Partial fold – fold fabric on the lengthwise grain,
right sides together, only wide enough to fit one
pattern piece
17
• After folding fabric, smooth out any
wrinkles by pulling both layers of fabric at
the ends or sides
• Work on large, hard surface so the full
width of the fabric can be laid out
18
Pinning Pattern Pieces
• Lay out all pattern pieces in the same
position shown in the cutting layout
• Most pieces are placed printed side up on
fabric
• Pattern pieces that are shaded on layout
should be placed with the printed side
down
19
• An arrow or “place-on-fold” bracket
indicates the grain line
• Place every pattern piece exactly on the
proper grain line
• Never tilt or angle the pieces to fit
• Place pins at right angles to the pattern
edge, making sure the points don’t go past
the cutting line
20
• 1. start with large pattern pieces that go on
the fold. Place the pattern fold line exactly
along the fabric fold. Pin corners and then
the remaining edges.
• 2. next, pin pattern pieces that have a
grain-line arrow. Place a pin at the end of
each arrow, pinning through all fabric
layers
21
• 3. count the number of pieces on the
cutting layout and compare to the number
on the fabric.
• 4. double-check your layout.
22
Special Lay out
• Napped fabric – place all pattern pieces in
the same direction
• Plaids – can be even or uneven,
depending on the repeat of the lines, even
plaids are the same in both vertical and
horizontal directions, use without-nap
layout; uneven plaids, use with-nap layout
23
• Stripes – even stripes, use a without-nap
layout; uneven use a with-nap layout
• Directional prints- use a with-nap layout.
Match designs at seam lines
• Border prints – place the pattern pieces on
the crosswise grain
24
Cutting & Marking
• Use bent-handled shears
– Hold fabric flat on cutting surface
• Cut directionally with the grain line
– Some patterns have a symbol printed on the cutting
line or stitching line
• Follow the correct cutting line on a multi-sized
pattern
– Mark the cutting lines for your own size with felt-tip
pen to make them easier to follow, or trim the patter
pieces
25
• Cut carefully around notches
– Use the tip of the shears and cut outwards
– Cut double and triple notches together
• Leave pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until
you’re ready to sew
– Transfer construction marking to fabric before
unpinning
• Save all fabric scraps
– Use them to test marking methods, type and length of
stitches
26
What to Mark
• Transfer marks to fabric
– Darts, pleats, tucks, dots, and placement
lines, buttonholes, buttons, pockets and trims
27
Marking Methods
• Fabric-marking pens
• 1. stick pins straight through the pattern and
both fabric layers at all marking points
• 2. start at an outside edge of the pattern piece
and carefully separate the layers enough to
place an ink dot where the pin is inserted
• 3. repeat, working toward the center of the
garment section until all symbols are marked
28
Tracing Wheel & Paper
• Quick and useful for most fabrics
• Tracing paper has a waxy surface and
available in different colors
• Papers that make permanent marks
– Only on wrong side of fabric
• Papers that make removable marks
– Right or wrong side
29
Tailor’s Chalk
• Mark on the wrong side
• 1. push a pin through both layers of fabric
at each symbol
• 2. make a chalk mark at each pin on top
layer of fabric
• 3. turn the fabric over and mark the other
layer at each pin
• Brushes off carefully
30
Machines & Equipment
• Universal or general-purpose
– Sharp point, for most knitted and woven
fabrics
• Ballpoint
– Knits and stretch fabrics, slightly rounded tip
31
• Stretch
– Prevent skipped stitches, synthetic suede,
elastic knitwear
• Leather
– Wedge-shaped point, pierces leather, vinyl
• Twin
– Decorative stitching
32
Needle Sizes
• Range from 6 (very delicate
• 20 ( for heavy fabrics)
• Lower the number the finer the needle
• Size 9 or 11 = fine, lightweight fabrics
• Size 14 = medium weight
• Size 16 = heavier or thick fabrics
33
Thread
• Fine thread for lightweight fabrics
• Heavier thread for heavier fabrics
34
Changing Needles
• 1. Raise the needle to the highest position
by turning the hand wheel
• 2. Loosen the thumbscrew on the needle
clamp.
• 3. Remove the old needle, being sure to
notice its position. The long groove on the
needle should face the side from which
you thread the needle.
35
• 4. Insert the top of the needle firmly up
into the needle clamp.
• 5. tighten the thumbscrew securely
36
Preparing Bobbin
• Bobbin = holds the bottom thread in the
sewing machine
• Must be removed from the bobbin case to
be wound
37
Winding Bobbin
Loosen the hand-wheel knob to stop movement
of the needle.
2. Insert the end of the thread through a hole in
the bobbin.
3. Wrap the thread securely around the bobbin
several times.
4. Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder.
5. Hold the end of the thread until the bobbin
starts winding.
38
Tips
• Make sure bobbin winds evenly
• Gently guide it with your finger
• Cut thread with scissors and remove
bobbin
39
• Insert bobbin in the opening in the slide
plate
• Pull bobbin thread gently to see whether
there is slight tension
– Tightness of thread
40
Tension Discs
• Be sure to check the threading of tension
discs
• Pull thread gently to double check
• Thread should pull with slight resistance
41
Thread Guides
• Location of the last thread guide tells you
in which direction to thread the needle
• If on right, thread right
• If on left, thread left
• If in front, thread to back
42
Raising Bobbin Thread
• Hold the needle thread in your left hand
• With your right hand, turn the hand wheel slowly
towards you until the needle enters the throat
plate
• Continue turning until the needle rises and
brings up a loop of the bobbin thread.
• Pull up the loop to bring the end of the bobbin
thread out
• Pull both thread ends under the presser foot and
to the back
43
Adjusting Machine
• Lockstitch = needle thread intertwines with
the bobbin thread
• Creates a stitch that doesn’t pull out or
unravel when a loop or loose thread is
pulled
44
Adjusting Stitch Type
• Straight stitch most common
• Decorative stitches available
45
Adjusting Stitch Length
• Number from 6 – 20 which indicate
number of stitches per inch
• Stitch length should match fabric type and
stitching purpose
46
• Regular stitching = choose a medium
length stitch for most fabrics (10 – 12
stitches per inch)
– For lightweight use a shorter stitch
• Machine Basting = longest stitch possible
for easy removal
• Reinforcement stitching= very short
stitches to prevent stretching or pulling in
certain areas (15 to 20 stitches per inch)
47
Adjusting Tension
• Please don’t touch the tension discs 
• Tension is seen in your sample stitches on
a double layer of fabric
• Adjustments are done by the teacher
48
Adjusting Pressure
• Presser foot- holds fabric against the feed
dog, which moves the fabric forward
• Some machines have pressure regulators,
ours do not
49
Using the Sewing Machine
• Guidelines on Stitching
• 1. before you start to stitch, raise the takeup lever and the needle to the highest
position.
• 2. place the fabric under the presser foot.
Put the bulk of the fabric to the left of the
needle
50
• 3. Position the stitching line directly under
the needle.
• 4. To begin stitching, turn the hand wheel
to lower the needle into the fabric. Then
lower the presser foot. Gradually apply
pressure on the knee or foot control to
stitch
51
Stitching Straight
• First attempts may not be straight
• Learn to guide the fabric with your hands,
without pulling or pushing
• Use guideline marking on throat plate to
help
52
Stitching Problems
• Frequently the cause of stitching problems
is incorrect threading
• Rethread the machine, check the needle
and ask the teacher for help
53
Sewing Machine Accessories
• Straight-stitch foot – has a narrow opening
and is used for sewing straight stitches
• Zigzag foot – has a wide opening to allow
for sideways needle motion of zigzag and
special stitches
• Zipper foot- can be adjusted to the right or
left side of the needle for stitching close to
zipper teeth or cording
54
• Buttonhole foot – has markings for
measuring buttonhole stitches
• Blind-stitch-hem foot – guides the fabric
for a blind-stitch hem
55
Sewing Machine Care
• Routine care keeps a sewing machine in
top working condition
• Machines need cleaned before the start of
a new project
• Get out lint from bobbin case, etc
56
• Always unplug the machine before
cleaning
• Use a soft cloth to remove lint or fuzz
• Use a soft brush to clean bobbin and
bobbin case
• Wipe away old oil with a cloth
57
Oiling
• New machines do not need oiling, it is
already imbedded
• Older machines, read manufacturers
directions for oiling and wipe away excess
58
59
Computerized Machines
• State of the art – expensive
• Push button commands
• LCD screens to display stitches
• Can draw your own designs
• Embroidery items, etc
60
Getting Ready to Sew
•
•
•
•
Gather all your notions and supplies
Double-check the steps to take
Press after each construction step
Fit as you go
61
Pattern & Their Parts
• Pattern envelope
• Front
– Drawing or photo
– Several garment views
– Lists pattern number
– Size
– Price
– “easy
62
• Guide Sheet
• Step-by-step information for cutting,
marking and sewing
• Cut out layouts and general information
• How to lengthen or shorten pattern
• Reverse side has sewing directions
63
Cutting Layouts
• Is a diagram that shows how to arrange
pattern pieces on fabric
• Separate cutting layout may be included
for interfacing and lining
64
Sewing Directions
• Step-by-step sewing directions appear on
the back of the guide sheet
• Fabric key shows how shading and
texture indicate the right and wrong
side of fabric any interfacing or lining
65
Pattern Pieces
• Each piece marked with a number or letter
with a specific name (collar, sleeve)
• Number of fabric pieces to be cut is also
printed on the pattern piece
• Symbols and lines serve as guides
66
Pattern Preparation
• Pieces will tear quite easily
• 1. Remove the entire pattern from
envelope
• 2. On the guide sheet, circle the cutting
layout you will use
67
• 3. select the pattern pieces for the view
you are sewing
• 4. fold the rest of the pattern pieces and
put away
• 5. cut apart any pattern pieces printed
together that you need
68
• 6. write your name on the guide sheet,
pattern envelope and all the pattern pieces
• 7. smooth out pattern pieces
• 8. on multi-sized pattern, mark cutting
lines for your size
• See page 484 Figure 7-4
• See page 484 Figure 7-5
69
Adjusting the Pattern
• Loosely fitted garments, minor differences
can be overlooked
• For fitted garments, measurements should
correspond to your body measurements
70
Understanding Ease
• Pattern sizes are designed for the body
measurements listed on the pattern
envelope
• Most garments have ease added to the
pattern
• Ease is the amount of fullness added to a
pattern to allow for movement and comfort
71
Comparing Measurements
• Compare your measurements with the
ones listed on the pattern envelope
• If a measurement is not listed, measure
the actual pattern piece
• Seam lines are always 5/8 of an inch
72
Pattern Adjustments
• Pg 487
• Lengthen
• Cut the pattern at
adjustment line
• Keep edges parallel
• Tape pattern pieces
with other paper
• To add to length
measure from the
edge of the pattern
• Shortening
• Fold the pattern along
the adjustment line
and bring fold up
exactly where it
needs to meet new
line and tape
• At lower edge redraw
new line
73
Adjusting Width
• Total width adjustment of 2 inches or less
can be made at the side seams
• Adjustments over 2 inches require cutting
and spreading pattern pieces
74
• To increase
• Tape paper along
pattern piece edge
• Redraw cutting lines
and seam lines
• To decrease
• Measure in ¼ of
necessary amount
• Redraw cutting lines
and side seams
• See page 488
75
Preparing Fabric
• Straightening Fabric Ends
• Selvage –two finished edges running
lengthwise
• Straighten the fabric by pulling if possible
and on knitted you need to cut
• See page 490 Figure 9-1
76
Preshrinking
• Wash or dry-clean fabric to prevent of
minimize shrinkage
• Helps remove fabric finishes that cause
stitching problems
77
• Washable fabrics
– Simply wash
– If ravel easily, zigzag the raw edges
• Hand-washable
– Fold fabric and place in hot or warm water for
30 minutes and tumble dry or dry flat
• Dry clean
– Take to a dry cleaner or self service
78
Straightening the Grain
• Off grain – when the crosswise and
lengthwise yarns are not at right angles
• If not straightened the final product might
pull or twist
• To straighten pull on the true bias
• See page 491 Figure 9-5
79
Pressing Fabric
• Press fabric and pattern pieces if
necessary
• Fabric needs to be flat and no wrinkles
80
Laying out the Pattern
• Finding the right side
• Usually right side is out on the bolt
• May be shinier or brighter
81
Folding the Fabric
• Cutting layout shows exactly how to fold
fabric
• Most are folded with right sides together
• Stripes and plaids are folded wrong side
out for matching
82
• Fabric may need to be folded lengthwise,
crosswise, double, or partial
• See page 492 Figure 10-1
83
• Lengthwise
– Fold fabric lengthwise
with right sides
together
• Crosswise
– fold fabric crosswise,
right sides together
• Double fold
– Fold fabric twice along
the lengthwise grain,
right sides together
(usually for knits)
• Partial fold
– Fold fabric on
lengthwise, right sides
together only wide
enough for pattern
piece
84
• After folding, smooth out any wrinkles
• Work on a large, hard surface to full width
of fabric can be laid out
85
Pinning the Pattern Pieces
• Lay out all pieces in same position as
shown in the cutting layout
• Most are placed printed side up
• An arrow or “place on fold” bracket
indicates the grain line
• Never tilt or angle a piece to fit
• Place pins at right angles
86
Follow These Steps
• 1. Start with large pattern pieces that go
on the fold
• 2. Pin pieces that have a grain line arrow
• 3. Count number of pieces on cutting
layout and compare to the number on the
fabric
• 4. Double-check your layout
87
Special Lay outs
• Napped fabric
– Lay pieces in same direction
– Nap to run up the garment
• Plaids
– Even or uneven
– Use dominant line of the plaid for the center
front or back
88
• Stripes
– Use a without-nap layout
– Dominant stripe in middle of front and back
• Directional prints
– Use with-nap layout
• Border prints
– Place pieces on crosswise grain
– Place others where they will fit
89
Cutting & Marking Fabric
•
•
•
•
Cut accurately
Use bent-handled shears
Cut directionally with the grain line
Follow correct cutting line on multi-sized
pattern
• Cut carefully around notches
90
• Leave pattern pieces pinned to the fabric
until you are ready to sew
• Save all fabric scrapes
– To test marking methods, stitches, pressing
temperatures
91
Stitch Lengths
• Basting
– Temporarily holds
– Very long, 6 stitches per inch
• Standard
– Permanent seams
– 10 – 12 stitches per inch
• Reinforcement
– Add strength to areas
– Very short stitch ( 15 – 20 per inch)
92
Types of Machine Stitching
• Stay-stitching
– Prevents stretching as you handle fabric
– Placed on bias and curved edges
• Directional stitching
– Prevents seam from stretching or changing as
you stitch
– Stitch with the grain
93
• Standard seam stitching
•
5/8 of an inch
– Almost all patterns
• Backstitching
– Secures ends of a row of stitching
– Stitch back and then forward again
94
• Understitching
– Keeps facing from rolling out
– 1/8 inch
– On right side of fabric, see figure 12-5 page
503
• Topstitching
– Decorative and functional
– Outlines seams, secures facing, holds hems
– See Figure 12.6 Page 503
95
• Edge stitching
– Holds fabric and seams in place
– Topstitching very close to finished edge
– Zippers and neck edges figure 12.8
• Stitch-in-the-ditch
– Holds two or more layers together
– Secure neckline, armhole, etc
– On the outside in the groove of the seam line
96
• Zigzag stitching
– Used to finish seams, buttonholes, attach
cording
– Decorative designs
• Specialty stitches
• Decorative
97
Before You Sew
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•
•
•
•
•
•
Practice sewing on scrap material
Is the stitch length correct?
Are stitches correct width?
Is the tension right?
Needle smooth and straight?
Presser foot firm and tight?
Handwheel tightened after winding the
bobbin
98
• Unit construction – complete individual
parts as fully as possible before sewing
them together
• Complete stay stitching etc
99
Remove Stitches
• Mistakes happen
• Remove with seam ripper, thread clippers
or small scissors
100
Hand Sewing
• Thread a needle
• Usually single thread
• Make a knot as shown on page 506 figure
13.1
101
Types of Hand Sewing
• Basting stitch
– Temporary stitching that marks or holds
pieces together
– Removed when permanent stitching is done
• Two types
• Uneven and even
102
• Running stitch
– Simplest
– Gather, ease, tuck, quilt
– Use where little or no strain See figure 13.4
Page 507
• Backstitch
– Strongest hand stitch
– Repair machine stitch seams and fasten
thread ends
103
• Pick stitch
– Variation of the backstitch
– Used to insert zippers
• Slip stitch
– almost invisible
– Can attach one folded edge to another
– Patch pockets, hems, linings, etc
104
• Over cast
– Prevents raw edges from unraveling
– Diagonal stitches over edge of fabric
• Hemming stitch
– Slanted stitch
– Finishing stitch
105
• Blind stitch
– Barely visible from garment’s right side
– Hemming and holding facings down
• Catch stitch
– Criss-cross stitch holds two layers together
– flexible
106
• Cross-stitch
– Decorative stitch
– Center back of pleat jacket
• Buttonhole stitch
– Handworked buttonholes
– Attaching hooks and eyes
– Decorative finish
107
• Blanket stitch
– Thread loops, eyes and belt carriers
– Decorative finish
• Chain stitch
– Forms thread loops, eyes and carriers
– Double thread to form a series of loops
108
Pressing Fabric???
• Press (raising and lowering iron )rather
than iron (slides back and forth)
• Use correct temperature setting
• Always test your fabric to see reaction
• Press on wrong side whenever possible
• When pressing on right side, always use a
press cloth
109
• Never press over pins
• Always press seams and darts before
other seams are stitched across them
• Press directionally with the grain
• Press seams flat before you press them
open
110
• Press curved areas over a curved surface
– Tailor’s ham
• Prevent press marks on right side, slip
pieces of paper under the edges of the
seam
• Check the fit of the garment before you
press sharp creases, pleats
111
• Don’t over press
– When pressing an entire garment
– Start with small areas first
• Collars, cuffs, yokes
– Later press large flat areas
112
Pressing Techniques
• Flat areas
• Place garment on ironing board with both
seam allowances to one side
• Open the fabric and place over board
113
• Curved areas
– Darts, curved seams (tailor’s ham)
– Press darts and seams flat to blend stitches
– Place fabric wrong side up on tailor’s ham
114
• Enclosed Seams
– Press seam flat
– Press seam open
– Turn right side out, gently push out corner or
point
– Press garment section flat on ironing board
115
• Gathered areas
– Press seam allowances together flat
– Slip garment over end of ironing board
– Press direction up into the gathers with the
point of the iron
116
• Shrinking in Fullness
– Hold the iron above the fabric to allow steam
to penetrate before pressure
– Use your fingers to pat out any folds
– Press edge of the fabric to shrink in fullness
117
Final Pressing
• While constructing garment
• Light pressure will remove wrinkles
• Light touch up at end
118
Making Darts
• Fold the dart with right sides together
matching stitching lines
• Stitch from the wide end to the point
• Stitch the last two stitches as close to the
fold line as possible
• Tie the thread ends
119
Pressing Darts
• Always press dart before crossing it with
another seam
120
Gathering & Easing Fabric
• Adjust stitch length to 6 – 8 stitches
• Stitch the first row of basting next to the
seam line
• Leave the threads long
• Stitch second row ¼ inch away and leave
thread long
121
• Pin the fabric edges matching, notches,
seams, etc
• Pull up both bobbin thread from one end
• Gently slide the fabric along the stitching
• Wrap ends around a pin
• Distribute gathers evenly and pin
• Stitch with standard stitching along stitch
lines
122
• Shirring is formed by several rows of
gathers
• Easing most often used at shoulder seams
• See page 518 figure 16-7
123
Sewing Plain Seams
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Stay-stitch any bias or curved areas
Pin baste fabric layers together
Raise the needle and take up lever
Position fabric under needle
Lower presser foot
Backstitch for ½ inch and then forward
Stitch forward slowly and evenly
124
• Clip threads at the seam end and
beginning
• Finish the seam edges if necessary
125
• Turning a corner
• Stitch to within 5/8 inch stop with needle in
fabric
• Lift presser foot
• Turn fabric
• Lower presser foot and continue
126
Turning a Sharp Point
• Take one or two diagonal stitches across
the corner
• Raise presser foot, leave in needle and
stitch diagonal
127
Reinforcement Stitches
• Reinforcement stitches on side of each
point
• Prevent fabric yarns from pulling out
128
Special Seam Treatments
•
•
•
•
Trimming
Seam allowance in cut to ¼ inch (evenly)
Grading
Trim each layer of the seam allowance to
a different width (reduces bulk)
• Clipping
• On curved seams, making tiny clips or
snips (1/4 to ½ inch)
129
•
•
•
•
Notching
Curved seams with too much fabric
After being trimmed or graded
Cutting out tiny wedges no more than 1/8
to seam line
130