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Sanya Ovcharova
Student No. 0903581001
Dr. Vitana Kostadonova
Translating Cultures
8 February 2011
Alcohol Traditions in South Korea and Their European Representations
Alcohol and alcohol traditions of brewing and consumption have a long history in
human societies. Similarly, alcohol drinking has great social role. Alcohol helps strengthen
the societies that use it. It facilitates social interaction, and allows individuals within the group
to make observations and perform tasks that they would otherwise be forbidden to do (Jerry
Statton). When applied to South Korea this statement acquires additional weight because of
various cultural patterns of behaviour in all levels of communication. In addition, alcohol
traditions in South Korea by comparison with their European representations vary greatly and
yet have a lot in common.
The choice of alcohol could be regarded as one of the most obvious variations of
behaviour. Eastern society like China, Japan, Korea, etc., considering their conservative views
and isolation throughout history, naturally developed alcohol recipes quite different to those
created on the European continent. On the basis of Social and Cultural Aspects of Drinking
(Social Issues Research Center) one could conclude that there are three main branches of
drinking culture regarding alcohol on the territory of Europe: wine-drinking cultures (France),
beer-drinking cultures (UK and Germany) and spirits-drinking cultures (Poland). Regarding
the choice of alcohol the essay argues that
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it is clear that in all cultures where more than one type of alcoholic beverage is
available, drinks are classified in terms of their social meaning, and the
classification of drinks is used to define the social world. Few, if any, alcoholic
beverages are ‘socially neutral’: every drink is loaded with symbolic meaning,
every drink conveys a message. At the simplest level, drinks are used to define
the nature of the occasion. In many Western cultures, for example, champagne
is synonymous with celebration…
So what about South Korea? The choice of alcohol is determined by the age and sex
of the drinkers. Makgeolli is the favourite drink of the older generation because it has longer
traditions than soju (TTMIK Culture Talk #1 – Drinking Culture in Korea). Actually soju was
introduced as a main stream drink in the 90s when from 40% abc. the major soju producers
lowered the alcohol proof to 20 – 25 % abc. as most produced type, so it is only natural that
the older generation is still true to the genuine mageolli taste. Now women also are likely to
chose soju but before soju was for men and beer(맥주[maek-ju] lighter than the European
beer) for women (Today’s Blog – Soju – Arirang TV) . That results in the traditions of alcohol
advertisements in Korea. Already people have made the connection in their minds that ‘beer =
handsome men, soju = beautiful women’. That is what Nathan Schwartzman from Asian
Correspondent claims in his article Women Sell Soju, Men Sell Beer?. A lot of Korean stars
appear in alcohol advertisements because alcohol has a different connotation in Asia. It is not
connected with ‘something bad’. For example, when someone wants to ask in an Englishspeaking country ‘What type of alcohol do you prefer?’ they would probably say ‘What’s
your poison?’ Michael Pettid, professor of Premodern Korean Studies at Binghamton
University and author of ‘Korean Cuisine: An Illustrated History’ explains that the food
philosophy is based on the idea of balancing one's ki, the flow of energy that courses through
your body. "In East Asian cosmology, the idea of regulation of one's ki is vital to overall
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health. Food is an important means to keep one's ki properly attuned to the external
environment," he writes (Alex Jung). Alcohol in Korea has the same significance as food.
Traditional Korean alcohols are purely fermented so their alcohol levels are very low and
therefore have great health benefits (Traditional Korea Alcohol: Health Features). Koreans
also prefer alcohol with lower alcohol proof to those with higher one.
I conducted a survey amongst people interested in the Eastern cultures trough a forum
called Eastern Spirit. These people mainly draw conclusions on the basis of Korean TV
products they have had experience with. The forum is Bulgarian so it gives information about
how spirits-drinking culture accepts traditional Korean alcohol. The first question was ‘Which
traditional Korean alcohol do you know or would like to taste’. 94 % pointed out soju. The
ones that already had experience in drinking soju pointed out that it was far too light. So when
the surveyed answered, they all pointed out that soju is very light. Soju being considered as
light vodka is due to the brewing technique and its organoleptic qualities and not because of
its alcohol proof. Considering the above it is only natural that their expectations were not
satisfied.
With Korea having been more and more influenced by the USA and Europe, the
traditions of alcohol drinking are changing but not in the way that harms the consumption of
traditional Korean alcohol. On the contrary, fusion style bars and restaurants are been visited
more frequently than ever and on the top of that these places are in most cases high-class
venues (Today’s Blog). European culture has been represented to the Korean public by KBS
(the Korean equivalent of BBC) trough numerous TV serials like ‘Terroir’ (2008 – 2009;
SBS), ‘The Vineyard Man’ (2006; KBS2), ‘Coffee Prince’ (2007; MBC), ‘Bread, Love and
Dreams’ also known as ‘Baker King’ (2010; KBS2), etc., so the connotations of foreign
alcohol and drinks as a whole in South Korea is changing. In Today’s Blog – Soju the host
Michael Porto presents to the public two types of places of amusement: a high-class fusion
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style soju bar and a food market. The first is not that crowded and people there are mostly of
the younger generation, the style of the glasses is a bit different and the anjus (side dishes for
alcohol) are arranged as Western style dishes. Regarding food markets Michael Porto explains
What is really unique about this place is the camaraderie it brings. As you can
see every one is friendly and even the shop-keepers are extremely friendly. We
can talk to anyone. Basically anything goes. People come here and drink soju
not because they are poor but because they want reminisce of the old days
(when Korea was not industrialized) and have something that is very familiar
to them, something very comfortable for them.
Here I must add that these food markets are extremely crowded, they are also very cheep.
Similar Korean style venues are the Korean BBQ restaurants which are also very crowded,
cheep and basically loved by everyone reach and poor, lower, middle or upper-middle class.
When asked about the food markets and the BBQ restaurants, a Bulgarian girl expressed her
disapproval. They looked very downturn to her and of course to many other foreigners for that
matter. European venues are quite different; from the English pubs to the French gourmet
restaurants there are a lot of differences not to mention the fact that in these types of Korean
restaurants no one is keeping distance which is quite important in Western Europe. The choice
of a place of amusement is again based on age in Europe, and of course nationality, but also
class. So higher class people visit higher class venues. In South Korea amongst ‘the rich’
Western style venues are popular but they are not necessarily the choice made.
In Europe we go out for a drink on leisure occasions, when celebrating or we drink
alcohol just because of the food. We don’t give it much thought. It’s just the beer after work
or the glass of champagne, or even the drinks we have just to have more fun with friends. On
the contrary, drinking alcohol is taken very seriously in Korea and there is a protocol that
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should be followed (Korean Drinking Culture). That does not mean that in South Korea
people do not drink alcohol for the above mentioned reasons. It is just that, according to
Koreans, the principle of drinking is to think of human beings first and form better
relationships for the purpose of harmony. Koreans consider it insulting to let someone pour
their own drink so that is way the soju bottle is 300 ml. because it is easier to pour with, in
comparison with the Western alcohol (700-750 ml. for spirits). The real essence of drinking
etiquette can be found in Yuknye of King Sejong (1418 - 1450). The contemporary etiquette of
drinking alcohol is based on his work.
Alcohol drinking has its place in the Asian business world. In his The Korean View
and Use of Contracts Boye Lafayette de Mente points out a couple of behaviour differences
regarding business making and contracts in South Korea and the West. Generally speaking,
Koreans sign contracts with foreign executives to get the relationship started officially. He
explains that the typical foreign view is that once you negotiate an agreement and sign a
contract, that's it; the relationship proceeds forward on mutually acceptable, solid
ground. South Koreans treat legal documents as memorandums of understanding. They view
contracts as loosely structured consensus statements that broadly define agreement and leave
room for flexibility and adjustment as needed. South Koreans prefer to do business with
people with whom they have a personal connection. Relationships are developed through
informal social gatherings that often involve a considerable amount of drinking and eating.
(South Korea – Language, Customs and Etiquette). Koreans (and Japanese for that matter)
believe that when drunk, a person reviles their true face and nature and only after being
familiar with it they can decide whether to have you as a friend or even weather to do
business with you. Therefore being a good drinker is a must when working in or with a
Korean company. Individuals who have established mutual trust and respect will work hard to
make each other successful. Drinking where everyone share one cup in turns is for building
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harmony in the group. That is way Koreans have a lot of company dinners (hoesik). Hoesik
are a lot more different than the usually company dinner in Europe. They involve again
excessive amounts of alcohol and they usually continue all night long and in not just one
place. That depends on the strength of the members of the personnel (Dining out with the
Boss).
A scene from the Korean TV serial Soulmate gives a better on look on how strict is the
drinking etiquette even on a leisure drinking occasion. A couple is sitting in an ordinary BBQ
restaurant and drinking soju. They are on a date and the dialogue goes as follows:
‘Would you like a glass’, asks the boy.
‘Than I will just have one glass’, answers the girl,’ I was taught that it is impolite to
refuse too much.’
Here he pours her a drink with one hand and the other is on his chest honouring her
while she accepts with two hands the 25 ml. glass which is the standard Korean glass.
Koreans accepts and give everything with both hands. He is the host so he pours himself a
glass while she sips hers. She coughs.
‘Soju really is a bitter alcohol’
‘It’s more so because you are sipping it,’ (taking everything as a shot is typical for
Koreans (but not necessary) so because of that the standard glass is smaller than the European
one which is 50 – 150 ml.) ‘Look at me Yu-jin ssi. You have to tilt your head back and take it
all in a single gulp. And at the end, hold the glass up and say, ‘kkkkkk’. This way is less bitter.
(laughing) Do you want to try it?’
‘Then, I will try to take it in a single gulp.’ she turns away and takes it in one gulp.
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Turning away is also a part of the etiquette. It is considered arrogant to drink face front
especially in front of and older person.
The conceptions of alcohol drinking in Europe are indeed very loose compared to the
ritual like conceptions of it in South Korea. Alcohol drinking cannot be taken lightly when it
comes to Eastern societies in general. A lot of misunderstanding may occur. On their opinion,
being a foreigner does not mean that you can be rude. It is a very significant social
phenomenon.
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Works Cite
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Bloomberg. 7 Aug 2008. Web. 6 Feb 2011.
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‘Dining Out with the Boss’. KoreanClass101. 23 Jan 2008. Web. 4 Feb 2011.
Jung, Alex. ‘Food Traditions: Why do Koreans eat hot food to cool down?’ SALON®. 16 Aug.
Web. 27 Jan 2011.
‘Korean Drinking Culture’, Teach English in Asia: Korea, Japan, China, Taiwan, Hong Kong,
16 May 2007. Web. 4 Feb 2011
Mente, Boye Lafayette de. ‘Asian Business Codewords: Korean Etiquette in Business - the
Korean view and use of Contracts’ Boye Lafayette De Mente & the Asia Pacific
Management Forum 2002. August 2002. Web. 07 Feb 2011.
Ovcharova, Sanya. ‘Alcohol traditions in South Korea’. Eastern Spirit. 24 Jan 2011. Web. 8
Feb 2011
Pettid, Michael J. ‘Korean Cuisine: An Illustrated History’, 84. Reaktion Books Ltd, London
ECIV ODX, 2008. Print.
Ruseva, Ruslana. ‘Applause: Impressions of South Korea’. Пътуване до…(Travelling to…).
16 Dec 2008. Web. 8 Feb 2011.
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2007. Web. 1 Feb 2011.
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‘Soulmate’ Ep 1. MBC. 13 Mar 2006 to 5 Jun 2006. Television.
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