MENTALISM MAGIC GIMMICK
PROBLEM AND JUSTIFICATION.
The problem and why it needs a solutionFor four years I have been studying magic. For the last two years I have been street performing and
performing at private functions. There are several types of magic, including coin, card, close up, street, stage and
mentalism. Mentalism is and area of magic that is severely lacking in purchasable knowledge. One effect I am
particularly interested in goes by the name of secret selection. The effect goes that a spectator chooses either a single or
several objects from a group and puts them in his/her pocket(s), then covers up the remaining items. All this goes on
while the magician’s back is turned, who then turns round and can instantly tell the audience which items were picked,
whether it be by handing them a prediction, or by reading their body language.
this effect is widely spoken about and is often used by stage magicians, but all the methods of achieving
this feat are floored in one way or another. There are two ways to achieve this affect. The first is to use a stooge,
someone the performer knows, i.e. someone who is in on the trick. This can be done by either the stooge choosing the
items, or by the stooge signalling to the performer and telling him what the items are. While of course this does achieve
the effect, it means that the performer cannot be working alone, and that the spectators can’t know each other, or they
would notice the extra person. The second method is to use a gimmick. In magic a gimmick is a tool which assists the
performer in stunning an audience. The gimmicked method uses a box or container of some kind which hold the items.
The lid of the box is transparent from certain angles, so when the items have been taken and the performer turns
around again he can see through the lid and can then tell which items have been taken. This method means that the
performer can be on his own .The downside to this method is that the box isn’t examinable i.e. On inspection the
spectator would see that the lid was transparent from the performer’s view. Another problem is that the performer
cannot tell what order the items where removed in. Both of these methods work and when used right create a great
effect, but each has floors, as I have just outlined.
The clients-
My client base for this profile will be hobbyist and professional
magicians alike. By creating a mid-range product few potential
buyers and users will be cut out. It will be a product of the right
standard and price to sit on the front shelf of a magic shop.
briefDesign and make a gimmicked container (or
objects) which allows a performer to accurately
predict which items out of a group will be taken
and in what order, without the use of a
stagehand/stooge, and where the container and/or
objects can be examined without anything out of
the ordinary being noticed.
SECTION 1 TIME PLAN
5th sept
Plan all research
(completed)
Prepare notes for interviews
(completed)
consumer focus group
(completed)
Davenports magic shop
(completed)
Chris Ballinger
(completed)
Available technologies
(completed)
Materials
(completed)
sensing methods
(completed)
communication methods
(completed)
indication methods
(completed)
Specification
12th sept
19th sept
26th sept
3rd oct
PLANNED PRIMARY RESEARCH
(INTERVIEWS)
Focus groupMy main primary
research will come from
focus groups. I have
arranged several
sessions with the
pentacle magic club in
Cambridge, part of the
Ipswich magical society,
a club which consists of
hobbyist and
professional magicians
alike. As my product
develops I plan to go
back to my focus group
for opinions and
suggestions. While I
should get plenty of
ideas for potential
methods the main thing
I hope to get out of
these sessions is a clear
image of what it is
consumers want. The
first focus session is due
to happen on Tuesday
the 13th September.
Logo for the davenports
magic company.
Ipswich
magical
society
The magic geek website.
Chris Ballinger
The Pentacle
magic club
A small selection of Chris’s
creations.
Retailer interviewI am also planning to speak with
several magic retailers. To me this
is important because ultimately it
is the retailers who will be buying
this product to pass on to the
consumers. I am currently
planning to speak with someone
from Davenports magic, the most
famous London magic retailer who
are based in charring cross
underground arcade. I am still
waiting for final confirmation of a
date, but I have been guarantied
that if I go into the shop within
opening times there will be
someone able to talk to me. My
second retailer interview is with
Chris Ballinger, a professional
magician from America who has
created several of his own tricks,
and works for magicgeekint, a
large online retailer based in
Santa Barbara California. Due to
Chris living overseas I am
speaking with him through online
communication methods including
email, facebook and Skype.
NOTES FOR INTERVIEWS
1.
2.
3.
4.
Explanation
•What I’m doing (time scale etc)
•What I want out of this session
•What is the effect? (mentalist, selection etc)
•Methods I know of- stooge (spectator or participant), gimmick
•Any others? Names?
•What I like in a trick, your opinion? (Simple to perform, straight out of
the box routine, stooge less, inspect able, gagety?)
•My brief•Any questions?
Size/category?
•Stage
•Parlour
•Close up (walk about?)
•Street?
Appearance?
•Old
•New
•Casket
•Cigar box
•Electronics hidden?
•Spaces for items
•Extra compartments? (for show, for convenience (for before a
performance?)
•Any more ideas?
Items? (contents)
•Something that can be used again for another trick? (cards, esp
maybe)as a convincer?
•Cards
•Snooker balls
•Coins
•Rings (linking?)
•Borrowed objects (coins, keys, phones, wallets (could create a gag?)
•Or the performers choice?
•Suggestions if so
•Any more ideas?
5.
Revelation?
•Prediction (swami or multi select)
•Reactions (body language?)
•Within box (screens behind flap)
•Any more ideas?
6.
Indication?
•Lights (just to cover everything)
•Vibration
•Pressure
•Any more ideas?
•Leg
•Pocket
•Body?
•Wireless?
•Fibre optics (do you prefer it gagety, from a selling point of
view)
•If non wireless
Wire along floor, up leg
Hinge touch, choice memory in electronics,
hinges (on box) act as contacts, 2 hidden contacts
in hands (with a pull for cleaner ending?) when
hinges are touched, signal is sent to indication
device on the body. Suspicious?
•Any other ideas?
Cost?
Rap up
•Specification (key points)
•Research ideas
•Thank you for listening, hope to come back etc
7.
8.
RESEARCH
CONSUMER FOCUS GROUP
On the 13th of September I met up with the Pentacle magic club at the tram shed, a
pub in Cambridge. It was an informal meeting with five magicians, two of whom
were professionals. It was a great chance to talk about what makes a good trick, and
what consumers want in a trick, as well as picking up a few tips for systems, and
areas to research. Here is the main feedback I got.
1)
explanation- The main feedback I got from this section was that the method should
2)
size- The general view of my group
be simple, so
patter can be concentrated on. They told me that gadgets sell great, and to have it inspectable is always a plus. I found that
most magicians don’t like to be given long patter but instead learn the method to the trick and then develop their own patter
to go with it, so I should be concentrating on the functionality of the gimmick.
I also got a great lead on an existing gimmicked version, so their will later be a section on an affect performed
by a man named Graham P Jolley.
3)
was that close up magic is the most popular, so the box should be small
enough to be held by a performer or a spectator or to be placed on a small area, because if you are performing at a
dinner or a restaurant there won’t be much table space. Although it could be suitable for stage and most definitely
parlour as well.
appearance- The main points from this section where that old would be less suspicious, wood may be
a good material. Plastics should be avoided as people always find them suspicious, and magicians like to use expensive
looking materials like wood and polished metals like brass. The biggest point which was made was that there should be
no visible electronics. Extra compartments where not recommended
4)
items- common items was the general view for this section, something people recognise. Decks of card was
a well received suggestion.
5)
revelation- In this section everyone agreed that the revelation should not be on a screen in the box, as
it then stops being a trick and becomes a piece of technology. So the sequence must be indicated to the magician
without the spectators’ knowledge.
6)
Indication- Going into this section I assumed that lights would be an instant dismissal, but the idea
came out that if LEDs were place under a thin wooden venire they would only be seen when on. Wires were a no go, as
it restricts movement and would require a lot of setup. If the indicator was on the body, it should be strapped to a leg or
arm, to free up pocket space, but as long as it was discrete and not too complicated, it would also be good if everything
was self contained.
7)
Cost- The average price someone would expect to pay is between £20 and £60.
Factors
research
response
types
how will it be incorporated
Into the mechanical side?
sensors
costs
How will it be fitted together?
Materials
components
Factors to consider
Means of production
circuitry
availability
Available
technologies
function
Size
School supplies/
orders
Electrical/system subtlety
Number of devices
Quality assessment
EXISTING METHODS
In my focus group I found out that the effect I am creating is often performed by a man named Graham P Jolley.
After searching themagiccafe.com, a huge internet forum for magicians, I found that the trick was called
Mento-spheres. The box work using waited ball which when removed release marbles which fall into a tube so the
magician can see the order. To me this seemed over complicated. The box itself is not inspectable. The price of the
trick is £105, and is in massive demand. So a cheaper, better product would have great success.
The magic café website.
The Mento-spheres
trick
AVAILABLE TECHNOLOGIES
I have decided to carry out this research early on so I know while looking at
other research what my limitations are while prototyping.
Laser cutter
The laser cutter allows materials such as
plastics like acrylic, MDF and thin sheet
metal to be cut on a single plane. The
cutter can cut to a very high accuracy,
more so and much faster than can be
achieved by hand.
The laser cutter is great for rapid
prototyping especially for gears and
mechanical processes.
Line bender
The line bender allows
acrylic to be bent by
melting a strip of the
plastic in a straight line by
using a fixed heated wire.
Spray developer
The spray developer
is an all in one unit
which allows PCBs
to be etched quicker
and cheaper than
using traditional
methods.
Wire sculptor
The wire sculptor is used to carve
shapes out of ….. Foam. The fixed
vertical wire and the additional free
form tool uses heat to carve
intricate shapes. This is a quick
way to model shapes and cases.
Vacuum former
The vacuum former can
form any thermo
moulding plastic around
a solid mould.
A limiting factor is that
there must be a 5
degree draft angle or
the mould bill become
stuck.
SENSING METHODS
REED SWITCH
A reed switch is a
switch which when
brought close to a
magnet will change
The switch
state from on to off or
This is a board
above is quite
vice versa. This is a
mounted switch. It
small and so
silent component but to
is quite bulky but
discrete, but
use this a magnet will
can easily be
may be hard to
have to be concealed
mounted onto a
mount well.
inside whatever objects
PCB.
are being used. Most
reed switches are
normally open, and
these are cheaper than
the normally closed
variety, so this may be
something to keep in
Rare earth magnet.
mind.
To
test this solution I
concealed a rare earth
magnet inside a sharpie
permanent marker, an
Pen in vice to
object commonly used by
be taken apart.
magicians. While the
Dismantled pen.
magnet did fit, and
wasn’t noticeable, it
wasn’t strong enough to
trigger a reed switch, so I
would have to use a
stronger neodymium
With considerations of both
possible solutions, I have decided
magnet.
that reed switches will be a better
method due to noise levels and
mechanical simplicity.
MICRO SWITCH
A micro switch is a small switch which is closed by
a small amount of pressure. The switches are
quite small and therefore discrete. Pictured above
is an example of a micro switch. Bellow is an
example of a lever system I designed using 3D
CAD software, which could incorporate a micro
switch.
An advantage to this solution is that the objects
used for the selection will not need to be
gimmicked. However, this solution would require
perfectly balanced levers to keep it discrete. Also
when pressed the switch makes a very audible
clicking sound, which may be heard with out
significant background noise.
COMMUNICATION
METHODS
One of the main challenges I face with this project is how the two devices (the container and the hidden indicator
on the body) will communicate. As I found with my focus group any indicator on the box may be spotted by a
spectator, or will involve the performer touching the container, which would lower the standard of the effect. So
this section of research is based on trying to find an adequate method for the devices to communicate with each
other. One thing I will be considering is that two devices will require two power sources, which is always an extra
inconvenience.
Another option would be to have everything in the box self contained, this would solve the challenge of
communication and potentially make the system much simpler to use, after all the best magic tricks are easy to
use so the performer can concentrate on performance and interaction with the audience. On the other hand this
may increase the probability of being discovered.
INFRA RED
The first system I looked at was infra red. Infra red is a
cheap method of communication used in remote controls. It
also has applications for data transfer in devices like mobile
phones, although in the last 5 years this use has been made
obsolete by Bluetooth (high radio frequency) technology.
I tested out a circuit I found in a projects book so I could
assess the potential of this method. The circuit I used was
quite simple.
The transmitter circuit was simply an infra red LED in
series with a push to make switch and a resistor to reduce
the voltage across the LED.
The receiver circuit had an infra red receiver as the input, a
potentiometer as a control, an op amp as a process tied to a
transistor witch controlled an LED as an output.
When the infra red
LED is off so is the
regular LED.
When the infra red
LED is on, so is the
regular LED.
Conclusion
One of the main things my focus
group said that any electronics
should be hidden. So with this in
mind, and the fact that my brief
is that it must be inspectable by
the audience I have decided that
infra red will not be a viable
Using a multimeter
to ensure the correct
voltage is put across
the rails.
most digital cameras
pick up infra red light
with a frequency close
to visible light, so
using my smart phone
I could tell when the
LED was on or off..
ADVANTAGES
DISADVANTAGES
•It’s a cheap method of
wireless communication
•The transmitter can
simply be a single LED
tied to the output of the
device
•The LED and receiver
must be able to see each
other so the LED must be
external on the device
seen by the spectator.
•Other infra red devices
could easily interfere with
the system’s functionality.
RADIO
The use of radio would allow the two devices to be entirely
separate, which would be a real advantage in terms of
practicality. A downside is that it can be a very expensive
system. It would also need an antenna which can be easily
disrupted (shown in image bellow). I tested this as a
possibility using two transceiver chips (also shown bellow).
The problem was that to function you also require encoder
and decoder chips as well as clock inputs and signal
generators. This would have made both circuits very bulky,
meaning concealment on the body would be difficult. For
the reasons I have stated I will not be using this solution.
HARD WIRED
My focus group told me that fixed wires would not work for most
magicians, and would restrict movement, but if the wires were
concealed and could easily be attached and detached, then it could
still be a viable solution. If this idea was used, the indicator would
still be on the body, but communication would be simple, keeping
production costs down. The downside is that contact must be kept
at all times for the signal to be communicated. For these reasons I
will be incorporating this into my design.
After looking at several solutions for
communication if I decide to have two
devices I will use hard wiring. This is
because it is a cheap and simple method
which will not be complicated, but will also
be easily concealed.
INDICATION METHODS
LED
When LEDs and LED displays
are placed behind a thin wood
veneer, they can be seen when
on, but not when off. This would
allow a performer to see a signal
telling them the sequence in
which objects were removed.
This is better than vibration
because it will be completely
silent, but the magician must be
far more aware of angles,
meaning that this would not be
suitable for a table hopping
situation.
Sound
At first it seemed to me that an
indication noise would be too
obvious, but then while in
Cambridge, watching a street
performer, I noticed that he had an
earphone in one ear. After that I
noticed that although people
wearing two earphones with the
cable hanging down they seem
antisocial, but one earphone coming
from under a shirt isn’t noticed, and
if it is, nothing is thought of it. A lot
of magicians also use ear mounted
personal microphones. This opens
the opportunity to have the device
literally tell you the sequence in
which the balls were taken out.
Type1; off centre
circle. This type of
vibrator tends to
make the motor
shift around more
than most so it can
be noisy and there
is a loss of power.
Type 2; semi circle. This
type gives a smooth
vibration so little noise,
but there can be a slight
loss in power. This
seems like the best type
for a discrete purpose.
Type 3; circle segment.
This type outputs a
very powerful vibration
but can be a very jerky,
and so uncomfortable.
Vibration
Vibration is a very attractive solution for indication as it can be
felt through clothes. The effectiveness of this method and it’s
discreteness is shown by it’s universal use in mobile phones. I
have researched three types of vibrator motor (detailed above)
and dismantled a mobile telephone as analysis for the
vibrator’s use (detailed bellow).
The mobile phone I analysed was a
NOKIA brand, a company famed for their
product quality. To the left are three
images showing the location of the
vibration device (circled).
The image to the right shows the small
motor used in the phone. The type of
vibrator used is the semi circle type,
reassuring me that it is the best type for
my product as telephones need a
vibration that is noticeable to the owner
but not noisy or disrupting
CONTAINER
The container for my items should look classy and be something that a magician would be
proud to own, so I went to an antique showroom to look at some different boxes. The first
type of boxes I found were ornate oriental boxes with intricate detail on the case.
Throughout history there has always been a mystique with things from the orient, in fact
it was where magic originated. This may work in the performer’s favour but because it
doesn’t look like something you would use every day to keep things safe it may cause
suspicion to spectators.
the second type I saw were made from hard wood. These boxes looked
classy but at the same time would be something you would keep precious possessions in.
(above) in the photograph is two
jewellery boxes in the oriental style
I discussed. While these are very
ornate, they are not something you
would get out while performing to a
small crowd in a parlour or
restaurant situation.
(left) A playing card case with for
sections and card design detail
on each section. Seeing this box
makes me think that decks of
card would be good objects to use
for selection as they can be used
after the effect and are
something that all magicians are
expected to carry.
(above) Here is one of the wooden boxes I looked at. In my
opinion this box is a bit too ornate and in your face, but the
wood does give a nice effect which would certainly add some
class to an act.
(right) This is another playing card box but this time it
is made from hard wood. This box has further inspired
me to make a box for playing cards. Because wood is a
material we have been using for years, it doesn’t have
a connection with electronics or gadgets in people’s
minds. Bringing out a wooden box with playing cards
set in specially sized spaces shows how a magician
cares for his props and portrays an image of respect for
a magician’s most important utility.
MATERIALS
HIPS
High Impact Polystyrene is a very
useful plastic because I could use it
to make the casing. This is
because it is easy to quickly create
a shell with the vacuum former
which covers the mechanisms,
protecting it from things, as it is
waterproof and impact resistant.
This is also useful if my product
were to be mass produced as I
could use HIPS, but it would be
injection moulded, not vacuum
formed.
Hardwood
Hardwood is a non composite wood
made from a solid trunk of a slow
growing tree. This is expensive, but
gives attractive patterns when
finished.
Acrylic
Acrylic is a very good material to
use in school as it is very easy to
work with. Any part that is
needed can be cut out on the laser
cutter to ensure accuracy of the
cuts and it works at a very high
speed. It can also be stuck
together with simply with solvent
glue. This could be used for
modelling my product, or for
making a structure to keep
everything internal in place. Going
by my focus group visible plastic
should be avoided as it makes
people suspicious of a gimmick.
18
MDF
Medium density fibreboard is a
useful and cheap wood because it
is recycled and is a composite of
many woods.
MDF is a useful material which I
could easily use in my project. It is
cheaper than solid woods, although
looks less appealing. If however I
were to cover it in a wood veneer,
the box containing the objects and
electronics would look more
expensive. This would also allow
me to use my LED indication idea.
Another use for this wood is to
make cheap and easy to work with
moulds for vacuum forming (it can
easily be cut into intricate shapes
on a 3D router). This means that I
would probably use MDF to make
mould for a holder for the objects.
SPECIFICATION
•
User control- The Product should be simple to operate so the magician can concentrate on his/her
performance. The reset must be quick, the more time spent setting up the trick for the next performance,
the less time can be spent entertaining.
The magician should be in full control of when he/her receives the signal to indicate the order of selection.
•
the
Angles- The final effect should be as angle proof as possible. When magicians refer to angles they mean
position the audience must be in so they don’t see any secret moves. This effect should be able to be
performed surrounded.
•
Discretion- It is vital that from the outside no electronics can be seen. This would ruin the effect as the
audience would purely think that it’s technology, not magic.
It can require the performer to be wearing long sleeves, as long as the hands can be shown empty at the
end of the routine.
Any noise or lights must not be heard or seen by the audience. The device doesn’t have to be silent, but it
must be quiet enough to not be heard in a restaurant or populated room (ambient noise levels).
The main must for this point is that as far as the spectator is concerned, It’s just a box.
•
Pocket space- Space in pockets is a very competitive area for any magician, so any devices should not need
to be kept inside a pocket, but can have the option to.
•
Aesthetics- Performers want to look smart, so their props must look smart to mach, therefore the casing
should be pleasing to the eye, but not be too bold. The cards should be held firmly but without
compromising looks, a velveteen should be used to coat whatever is holding the cards. The cards should
be useable after the trick.
also
•
Materials- For the main box a hard wood will be more appropriate, as plastic or metal will suggest
something gimmicked. For the parts which can’t be seen, an appropriate material should be chosen on
purely it physical properties.
•
time
Mobility and size- The box should be large enough to hold four decks of playing cards, but at the same
be small enough to easily be carried. The dimensions should be 300-400mm by 150-200mm to fit these
needs. The box should be easy to move around, so it cannot need to be attached to a table or have any
running across the floor. Also there should be no complicated set up needed each time the trick is
performed. I have put this point in with mobility because it is more of an issue with moving around than
wires
INITIAL IDEAS
& DESIGNS
555 TIMER
The first electronic solution I investigated was Using a 555
monostable circuit. With this solution when a deck of cards is
removed the motor will be turned on for a set time period
indicating which deck was removed. The problem with this is
that it is instant and the performer would need to be in constant
contact with the container.
When the reed is
opened, the relay will
be triggered.
When the relay is
closed, current will
flow through the pole
sending pin 2 low.
When the capacitor
charges the current
will be stopped
sending pin 2 high
again.
The reed switches are normally open, but because the
magnets will be in contact with them they will be closed.
This would mean pin 2 would be constantly low, which
would turn on the motor from pin 3. to counter this I
have designed a simple solution (above)using a relay
and an electrolytic capacitor. While this does solve the
problem, the relays would make an audible noise when
turned on, so a transistor will need to replace this.
Bellow is the system shown on the monostable circuit.
Because each monostable circuit can only have one time
delay, a separate circuit will be needed for each input. Above
is what the final circuit would need to look like. This is quite
a big circuit and may need multiple power sources to prevent
power loss to the ICs.
This solution could work but because indication is
instant constant contact will need to be kept with the
container, so I am no longer considering this as a viable
solution.
Micro controllers (genie ICs)
Design 1
Micro controllers are integrated circuits (ICs) which can process data received
from inputs pins and control output pins accordingly. Micro controllers can be
programmed using basic coding or with the use of flow chart software. They have
many functions including turning outputs on/off, creating time delays,
questioning the status of both digital and analogue signals and creating variable
which can be compared later for differentiation, just to name a few.
This method uses small circuits, as all logic/processing is in the IC which is an
advantage. Also because the triggers can be chosen to be high or low the add on I
designed for the 555 monostable is not required, again keeping the circuit simple
and compact. Another advantage is the ability to make complex process systems
and change them at a later date to suit different users, or improve the general
function of the circuit. For these reasons this is the solution I will be taking
further. A disadvantage is that the ICs need programming after PCB
manufacture and can be costly.
Sends the
output high
These decision boxes ask
whether or not an
individual input is high. If
it is, the flow passes on to
the next. If it is low, i.e. the
reed switch is open, then
the output is sent high for a
period of time depending on
which deck of cards has
been removed.
System loops to
restart the decisions.
Sets the
time delay
Sends the
output low
again
Above is a basic circuit (without standard
connections i.e. programming pins) with the
inputs (the reed switches) and an led as an
output (in replacement for the motor for
simulating)
To the left is a flowchart
which functions the same
as the 555 circuit chain I
designed previously.
DESIGN 2
My second flow chart design is to be one in which the magician can
decide when he is indicated of the order in which the cards are
removed. This requires some sort of memory, and a trigger for a
sequence to be released indicating the order of the three decks removed
all in one go.
When a deck is lifted, the decision box diverts
the flow down a chain to the right, where a
compare box asks if the variable has a value
above 0. If it doesn’t, then an increment is
added. From then on every time the chart
loops, an increment is added to any triggered
variable.
I have added a trigger
represented by a PTM switch
(circled left).
I have decided to use
variables to create my
‘memory’. Variables allow
differentiation, so if the
variables are increased
individually starting when an
object is removed, the first
input will have a larger
variable value than the last
(see right).
Now there are variables to distinguish between input order, it is a case of
comparing the variables so the largest variable’s output sequence is played first,
then the second largest, then the third. The chart section bellow shows one line
showing what would happen if deck 1 was chose first, then box 2. the last
decision shows how the variables can be differentiated to output the right
sequence. To save space and memory I have created a sub routine for each
variable, which can be called, the returned back to the chart.
To decisions
From variables
(above) The subroutines with different
time intervals for the different inputs.
The next stage was to build up all possible paths for deck 1 being chosen first.
Points for the other paths to be added.
For the final stage I mapped out all other outcomes insuring that the right sequence was created for the order
in which the decks were taken.
This slide shows the final flow chart all together.
Here is where the
variables are set. The
system will loot until
the PTM (push to
make) switch is
pressed.
CIRCUIT DESIGN
The circuit I showed in the previous slide was a basic IC circuit, which is a diagram without programming or power pins.
The basic makes initial set up and chart testing easier, but to design a PCB the standard view is required.
(bellow) The circuit complete with programming and
power pins.
While the circuit worked when simulated on the computer,
when I bread boarded it the flowchart was too large to fit on
the C14 chip, so I have had to upgrade it to an E18 (E stands
for elite range), which has more memory. This increases unit
cost but is required for me to have the desired system. The elite
chips have the addition of a reset pin (R on diagram bellow),
but to reset I intend to just turn the circuit off and on again,
removing the need for two switches. The reset needs to be tied
to the positive rail by a 4.7K resistor, but the PTM can and will
be removed. When breadboarding I also found that the inputs
need to be tied to ground, so the chip can differentiate between
high and low, so each switch has been tied to ground with a
10K resistor.
Above shows how I simulated the function of my circuit and flow
chart. In this view I can see and change the inputs, while still
following the flow chart.
FINAL AMENDMENTS
Improvements as a result of testing
When testing the circuit the
outputs sequence was never
the order in which the inputs
were sent low. The problem
was that when I simulated
the flow chart, the flow
between actions was slowed
down so the path could be
followed. In real life the
variables were reaching their
maximum and resetting in a
matter of seconds. To fix this
I have added a time delay
between each increment.
I have also removed the
compare boxes and the extra
increment boxes as they were
not necessary.
The second improvement I have made was not necessary but
makes the system more user friendly. Instead of a timed output
varying for each input, I have changed the sub-routines so there
is a number of pulses which when counted will tell which deck
was removed when (1 pulse for deck 1, 2 for deck 2 etc).
Production plan
31st
Week Jan
Lesson 1
2
14th
7th Feb Feb.
3
1
2
3
1
2
28th
Feb.
3
1
2
14th
7th Mar mar
3
1
2
3
1
2
28th
21st mar mar
3
1
2
3
1
2
Design PCB
Eche pcb
drill holes in pcb
solder components onto pcb
test pcb
catch up on folder work
design casing (box)
manufacture casing
Design Insert
manufacture Insert
Construct final box
Design and manufacture body piece
test and evaluate final prototype
finish all outstanding folder work
Design and model mechanical
Design and manufacture final table
Finish all outstanding folder work
Health and safety and quality control
The most important point is to where appropriate protective clothing (eye protection, apron) and always concentrate
entirely on the process in hand. If a job needs more than two hands, get help, and never cut corners to save time.
For quality control it is important to insure the upmost care is taken in good production. If a part of manufacture is not of
the highest standard it is to be redone, and I will be checking for quality at all times when manufacturing taking
measurements to insure correct dimensions.
4th
apr
3
1
2
PCB MANUFACTURE
The first step was to design the PCB. To do this
I used the same simulation software I use to
design my circuit (left).
I then printed the PCB using the spray etching
machine explained in my research. When the
PCB comes out of the etch tank the areas
which have not been etched off are coated with
a plastic film (bottom left). To solder
components the copper on the surface must be
exposed. I removed the film using wire wool
before drill the holes for the components
(bottom right), using 1.5mm drill bits for the
terminal blocks and 1mm bits for the rest.
When soldering components I held them
down using masking tape (left). This not
only makes things easier it also insures a
straight connection.
Bellow is the completed PCB ready for
testing. When I tested the PCB for the first
time I used a buzzer in place of a motor to
make it easier to tell when the sequence is
working, so I could concentrate on
checking the connections using a
multimeter.
CASING DESIGN AND
MANUFACTURE
BOX DESIGN
I started out by designing my box using 3D computer aided design (CAD)
software, Solidworks. From there I drew up 2D plans for cutting the sides and lid
for my box, including all dimensions and angled edges. I also designed a
mounting for the on/off switch, to be cut from 3mm acrylic.
3D design (above)
(above) Lid and base dimensions.
(bellow) long side dimensions
(above) Short side dimensions.
(left) design for switch mount
THE COMPLETED BOX
I have made the box out of hardwood, keeping the design simple, so as not to take away anything from the effect itself, but to
still look classy.
Base glued in place.
45° angle for more surface area
contact and so better adhesion.
It also leaves a better looking
join.
CORNER PLATES
Brass corner plates (pictured left) not only add a nice
finish but give an opportunity to make contacts to my
circuit. The corners will be the trigger for the
sequence output, and the hinges will be the contacts
for the output.
Because the inner corners of the plates are rounded
(see bottom left), sharp corners prevent the plates
from sitting flush with the box. For this reason I have
used a disk sander to sand flat spots on the corners
(top right). I also drilled guide holes for the screws to
insure a straight join (top right).
For the contacts I drilled a hole through the flat spot
to the inside of the box and soldered a length of wire
to one of the corner plates (right middle).
I then screwed the plates down and the hidden
contacts were complete (seen bottom right).
HINGES
The hinges are where the main contacts will be, so they
need to look as innocent as possible. The hinges I have
chosen are small (centre left) and will sit above the level of
the card slots, so it will seem as if there couldn’t be a wire
coming from it.
I drilled the guide holes for the hinges as well as a central
hole drilled at an angle of 60° from the horizontal (top left).
The bare wire is folded over and coiled around one of the
screw holes. The friction between the wood, wire and hinge
is plenty enough to hold the wire in place, and it cannot be
seen. To ensure the wire won’t come loose I secured it with
a small amount of two part epoxy resin (bottom left).
I repeated this process on the other hinge to make the
second contact (bellow).
CARD HOLDER INSERT DESIGN
For the insert I have decided to use an acrylic holder covered in a velveteen fabric. This is because as I found in my
research acrylic is easily cut very accurately, and if it is covered then it’s appearance is not a concern. Green is a
colour often associated with playing cards, if for nothing else
because it is the most common colour for a poker/blackjack
table.
The velveteen I have chosen has a pattern incorporating the
four
suits (left). The holder itself will be made of 4 sheets of 3mm
acrylic, with four deck sized holes and a final 6mm rectangle for
the base with centred holes for the capacity sensors
(bellow).
ADHESIVE TESTING FOR FABRIC BONDING
To find out what will be the best adhesive to use to bond the velveteen to the acrylic
I have tested four glues, an epoxy and double sided tape.
To test the adhesives I took the scrap pieces of acrylic from making my holder and
some sample swatches from my velveteen. To allow a good adhesion I first lightly
scored the surface of the acrylic to open up some more surface area. I then stuck the
swatches down and labelled them with white correction fluid for visibility and easy
identification.
Before
Adhesive
Pros
Cons
summary
Super
glue
Very strong hold,
removing swatch
required a lot of force.
Stops fraying edges.
Glue soaked
through slightly
giving the material
a rough feel.
Will be useful for sealing
edges and fixing down the
unseen edges
Hot glue
Strong hold, swatch
was difficult to
remove. Glue did not
soak through fabric.
Left an uneven
surface. It is a bit
messy to apply.
Will be used for adhesion
in contours and where the
fabric will be visible.
copydex
Flat bond. Allowed
correction after
placement.
Weak bond put up
little resistance
before giving way.
Better adhesives have been
found so no use.
Pritt stick
Did not soak through
fabric.
Barely any
adhesion observed.
Little to justify use.
Epoxy
Allowed correction
after placement.
Bond was
surprisingly weak,
gave good resistance
but less than hot
glue.
Not a bad adhesive but hot
glue is a better choice.
Doublesided tape
Easy and clean to
apply.
Again gave little
bonding force.
Futile.
After
FABRIC ADHESION
Fig.1
Fig.2
Fig.3
To glue the velveteen to my
holder I surrounded the
inner edge of the first slot
with hot glue (fig.1) and
used a deck of cards to
push the fabric into place
(remembering to put the
proximity sensor in first)
(fig.2). This leaved a
perfectly formed slot with a
sensor concealed within
(fig.3). I repeated this
process four times to glue
all for slots into shape
(fig.4). I then tested the
size of the slots using four
decks of cards (fig.5). The
last step was to trim of the
excess, fold the fabric
round to the bottom and
seal with super glue (fig.6).
Fig.4
Fig.5
Fig.6
FINAL ASSEMBLY
For the final assembly I first drilled guide holes for my PCB and battery
holder (top left).
I then glued supports in each corner for the insert (second left), along with
the holder for the on/off switch (third left). The picture in the bottom left
shows the interior so far, including the wires from the hinges and corner
plates.
All that was left then was to screw in the battery
pack and the PCB. For the battery pack I used
countersunk screws so they would sit flush with
the base and not obstruct the batteries. Bellow
Is an image of the final box assembly.
PHOTO EVIDENCE OF FINAL PRODUCT
BODY PIECE
I wanted to keep the body part of the product simple so it will simple be a motor with a
vibrator attachment and two wires to connect to the hinges and also the corner plates to
trigger the output sequence. First I designed using 2D design the pieces for the vibrator
(made from 3 pieces of 3mm acrylic) and the circular piece with stress holes for the wires
(left). The vibrator I have designed uses the semicircle design, the one I decided would
be most appropriate in my research.
Once these pieces were made it was a simple task of gluing all the pieces together.
Pictures of the device can be seen bellow.
After everything had been made it was time for testing and evaluation. The
picture above to the right shows how the device is fitted to the body. The motor
is in the inside jacket pocket, and the wires run down the sleeves.
The pictures to the left show how the wires would be attached to the box. The
first is a shot from above, showing how the wires are hidden. The second is
from bellow, showing how the wires are connected.
TESTING AND
EVALUATION
Motor problem
When I came to test the function of my product I found that when the sequence was triggered, the motor
would come on briefly then stop and not come back on. I tested it again only this time using an LED with
a 470Ω resistor in series to protect it. When I did this the process worked perfectly. I connected the genie
chip on my PCB to a computer so I could run the program through simulation software but still using the
relevant inputs/outputs and the chip’s processor. When it came to the output the circuit stopped as if
power had been lost to the chip when the motor was connected. From this I deduced that the motor was
drawing too much current and the chip could no longer run.
To solve this I wired up a transistor and connected it to the PCB with a 10Ω resistor in series
with the motor connections. The resistor was to drop the voltage drop across the motor to its minimum, so
it would still work but not draw too much current.
this solution worked and the product does now work. However, the motor has lost some power
and sometimes struggles to get started, so as a future development a secondary separate power supply
may be required. This would allow the chip to run interrupted and the motor to run at full power.
ANALYSIS OF THE MEETING OF SPECIFICATION
For further reading of full specification please refer to slide 19
User control- The final product does meet the needs of ease of use, as it can be operated with ease and little
thought. The reset time is fairly quick, although to lift the insert easily two deck of cards need to be removed to get a
good grip. An easier way to lift the insert may be an area for further development. As it is the magician’s choice
when the
output sequence is triggered, he/she is in full control of when they receive the indication signal.
•
•
Angles- unless the spectator is looking from bellow the box the wires from the sleeves cannot be seen. For this
reason I believe I have satisfied this requirement, because most angles that a spectator is likely to be viewing from
are covered.
•
Discretion- This was one of my main requirements for this effect. Firstly, no wires or electronics can be seen
without lifting the insert. The insert fits very snugly in the box, so lifting out the cards will not move it. The
hinges of the lid lie above the level of the insert, so wires connected to them doesn’t seem possible. This may seem
very minor but will add a real subconscious conditioning to convince the audience it is a normal box.
•
Pocket space- While the body device has been designed to sit in a jacket pocket, it could easily be taped/sewn
under the armpit.
•
Aesthetics- The box itself looks pleasing to the eye and the corner plates add a look of quality, but it is still quite
simplistic and will not draw attention from the effect. The cards are held securely and will not fall out in transit.
The green velveteen looks good and is relevant to the playing cards, thus justifying having a box to hold them.
Because the magnets are built into the card boxes the playing cards themselves can be used after the trick.
•
Materials- The box has met the material specifications where materials can be seen. The body piece is made from
tough acrylic which will withstand impact if dropped, thus protecting the motor.
•
Mobility and size- the box is within the size guidelines measuring 360mm by 170mm. The box can be easily
carried and has no attachments or wires hanging out. Of course the box easily holds four decks of cards. Apart
from putting on the device at the start of a session, all that needs to be done between performances is to turn the
on/off switch on and off. So I believe I have fulfilled this point, although further development may be to consider
building an indicator into the box to further reduce overall setup.
FOLDING TABLE
PROBLEM AND JUSTIFICATION
Requirement and reasoning
Requirement- A suitable table for the mentalism magic gimmick.
Reasoning- One of the requirements for my magic gimmick was that it was mobile. For this to be
viable the surface it sits on needs to be mobile too. For this reason I will be designing a possible
solution for a mobile and portable table.
To the left is a picture of my current table,
which I use for street performances and walk
around at paid events. The problem I find with
it is that when flat it is still quite large and
awkward to carry. This makes it difficult to
transport to location but it is also difficult to
move around spots. The image on the bottom
left shows the table folded up, It is very bulky
and also takes a while to fold up. While it is
easier to carry it around open when at a gig it
then takes up both hands and it is easy to hit
someone with it accidentally.
Brief
My brief is to design a solution for a compact
table for use with my mentalism gimmick. The
table should pack small, be easy to assemble
and should be able to carried with one hand.
Telescopic
The first solution I have designed is using a telescopic design. This would mean the legs would
extend then retract into a shorter length.
Bellow is the net design for a telescopic arm I have made out of modelling card cut out using a
laser cutter. The sides get gradually thinner so they will lock when pulled out. The thinner
pieces are spacers so each smaller section can fit in the larger one.
Spacers
The picture to the left shows the arm closed
and the picture to the right shows it
extended. While this does give plenty of
length, it is not very strong and retracts
with little force. When closed it is not very
compact and each leg would need
shortening individually, so it will be no
better than my existing table.
Scissor system
My second design uses a scissor type system. These mechanics pack small and can extend to a large differential.
Above are the 2D CAD drawings I made and bellow is the finished model.
The legs do fold small and give a good height when extended, but has little strength side to side. For a further
design I will add cross bars for better rigidity.
Closed legs
Locking mechanism
Extended table
Working model
To further this design I designed an acrylic model including the
cross bar improvement. The top left image shows a net for the
model. The circular pieces are end caps to hold the arms
together. The images below show the finished model and prove
that it can stand on its own. The next slide will show a video of
the table’s operation. The table was quick to assemble and take
down and can be carried with one hand.
End caps
Open table
Locking piece
Cross bars
Closed table
THE END