Industrial Revolution
Key Terms
Flying Shuttle- was one of the key
developments in the industrialization of
weaving. It allowed a single weaver to weave
much wider fabrics, and it could be
mechanized, allowing for automatic machine
looms.
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It was patented by John Kay (1704–c. 1779)
in 1733.
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Spinning Mule-is a
machine used to spin
cotton and other fibers in
the mills.
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Samuel Crompton
invented the spinning mule
or mule jenny in 1779.
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The spinning mule spins
textile fibers into yarn by
an intermittent process.
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Spinning Jenny-is a multi-spindle spinning frame
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It was invented in 1764 by James Hargreaves
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The device reduced the amount of work needed to
produce yarn, with a worker able to work eight or
more spools at once.
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This grew to 120 as technology advanced.
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Cotton Gin-a machine that automated the
separation of cottonseed from the short-staple
cotton fiber.
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Eli Whitney was the inventor of the cotton gin and
a pioneer in the mass production of cotton.
•
Prior to his invention, farming cotton required
hundreds of man-hours to separate the cottonseed
from the raw cotton fibers.
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Elias Howe- was an American inventor and sewing machine pioneer.
•
Contrary to popular belief, Howe was not the first to conceive of the idea of a
sewing machine. Many other people had formulated the idea of such a
machine before him, one as early as 1790.
•
Howe originated significant refinements to the design concepts of his
predecessors, and on September 10, 1846, he was awarded the first United
States patent (U.S. Patent 4,750) for a sewing machine using a lockstitch
design.
•
His machine contained the three essential features common to most modern
machines:
•
a needle with the eye at the point,
a shuttle operating beneath the cloth to form
the lock stitch
an automatic feed
th
19 Century
7
Sewing Machine- Before the invention of the sewing machine
people had to create garments by hand.
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In 1846, the first American patent was issued to Elias Howe for "a
process that used thread from two different sources."
Elias Howe's machine had a needle with an eye at the point. The
needle was pushed through the cloth and created a loop on the other
side; a shuttle on a track then slipped the second thread through the
loop, creating what is called the lockstitch.
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• Sewing machines did not go into mass production until the
1850's, when Isaac Singer built the first commercially
successful machine.
• Singer built the first sewing machine where the needle moved
up and down rather than the side-to-side and the needle was
powered by a foot treadle.
• Previous machines were all hand-cranked. However, Isaac
Singer's machine used the same lockstitch that Howe had
patented.
• Elias Howe sued Isaac Singer for patent infringement and won
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in 1854.
Sewing Machine Videos
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Video 1
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Video 2
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Ebenezer Butterick- changed
the face of home sewing
forever by creating the first
graded (different sizes) sewing
pattern. The company he
founded continues to lead the
way in make-it-yourself
fashions 150 years later.
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In the beginning, he only
offered men's' and boys'
patterns.
In 1866 they began offering
women's' dress patterns.
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Paper Pattern- A pattern in sewing and fashion
design is the paper or cardboard template from
which the parts of a garment are traced onto
fabric before cutting out and assembling
Before Paper Patterns, people who sewed
would lay out their fabrics and then hand draw
the fabric cuts they wanted to made.
Ellen Butterick, wife of Ebenezer, remarked to
her husband how handy it would be if she had
some sort of pattern to guide her in making her
fabric cuts, a pattern that was the correct size
for her son. Thus paper patterns were born.
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Charles Worth- a fashion designer who is widely
considered the Father of Haute Couture.
He is credited as the first designer to put labels
onto the clothing he manufactured.
Worth's designs are notable for his use of lavish
fabrics and trimmings, his incorporation of
elements of historic dress, and his attention to fit.
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Ready-to-Wear; is the term for factory-made
clothing, sold in finished condition, and in
standardized sizes.
Also called prêt-à-porter.
Military uniforms were the first ready-to-wear
garments to be mass-produced during the War of
1812.
High-quality ready-to-wear garments for men
became generally available soon thereafter.
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Levi Strauss-the inventor of the quintessential American garment,
the blue jean.
In 1872 Jacob Davis, a Reno Nevada tailor, writes to Levi Strauss,
telling him about the process he invented to rivet the pocket
corners on men’s pants to make them stronger. He suggests the
two men take out a patent on the process together and Levi
agrees.
In 1873 Levi Strauss & Jacob Davis are granted a patent on the
process of riveting pants by the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office
on May 20. It is patent number 139,121 and this is the invention of
the blue jean.
Originally called waist overalls
15
20th Century
Standardized Sizes- In 1937, the U.S.
Department of Agriculture prepared to conduct
a study of women's body measurements for the
purpose of creating a sizing system which the
entire industry could follow. Before, there were
no standardized sizes and there were no
guidelines for sizing patterns or clothing.
•
In the mid 1940’s companies asked the
National Bureau of Standards to do research
and provide a reliable industry sizing guide.
•
The resulting commercial standard was
distributed by NBS to the industry for comment
in 1953, formally accepted by the industry in
1957, and published asCommercial Standard
(CS)215-58 in 1958.
•
World War I (1914-1918)-The wartime economy, the
change in population demographics, the expanding
domestic economy (with more people working), and the
shift to women in the workforce all had a tremendous
impact on fashion.
•
Before WWI, France was the main fashion house.
People looked to French designers to see what was in
style.
•
The most lasting change happened to women's
hemlines. Hems which had risen from floor length to
ankle length prior to the war, rose to mid calf length by
1916, and have stayed that high, or higher, ever since.
•
World War II(1939-1945)-The government found it necessary to
ration food, gas, and even clothing during that time.
•
Nylon and wool were both needed by the military and Japanese
silk was banned in the USA after the attack on Pearl Harbor.
•
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New York Emerged as a Fashion Leader.
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Girdles were out as the rubber was needed for the war effort.
Pants became a staple of women who worked in factories and
soon gained widespread acceptance for casual wear
•
In February of 1947, Christian Dior introduced his New Look, a
style that shocked and outrages some and thrilled others.
•
Christian Dior- a French fashion designer
whom is one of the most important
couturiers of the twentieth century.
•
In 1947, he launched his first collection
which featured the “New Look”
•
The “New Look” consisted of rounded
shoulders, a cinched waist, and a very fully
skirt. A very feminine look.
•
After years of military and civilian uniforms,
restrictions, and shortages, Dior offered not
merely a new look but a new outlook.
•
Coco Chanel- A famous French Fashion
designer.
•She is the only fashion designer to
appear in Time Magazine’s 100 Most Influential People of the 20th
Century
•Chanel was credited with liberating women from the constraints of
the "corseted silhouette" and popularizing the acceptance of a
sportive, casual chic.
•Chanel popularized the “little black dress”.
•Chanel No. 5 is still one of the top grossing perfumes.
•
st
The 21 Century
• Fast Fashion-Fast fashion is a
contemporary term used by fashion retailers to
express that designs move from catwalk quickly in
order to capture current fashion trends.
• Fast fashion clothing collections are based on the
most recent fashion trends presented at Fashion
Week in both the spring and the autumn of every
year.
Key Terms
• These trends are designed and manufactured quickly
and cheaply to allow the mainstream consumer to
take advantage of current clothing styles at a lower
price.
• This philosophy of quick manufacturing at an
affordable price is used in large retailers such as
H&M, Zara, Peacocks, and Topshop.
• It particularly came to the fore during the vogue for
"boho chic" in the mid-2000s.
Fast Fashion
• Internet- an electronic communications network that
connects computer networks and organizational
computer facilities around the world.
• The Internet has had a massive impact on fashion
shopping, drastically changing not only the way we
buy clothes but also the way in which we are
marketed them. The internet has made fashion
global!
Key Terms
27
Complete the
Fashion History
Quiz
28
Fashion Capitals
•A fashion capital is a location which is
influential in fashion and in which fashion is
important.
•Traditionally, the four major fashion capitals are Paris,
London, Milan and New York.
•In recent years, however, the importance of the
fashion industry has grown in other cities, such as
Tokyo, Hong Kong, Los Angeles, Rio de Janeiro,
Shanghai, Sydney and Barcelona.
Label each Fashion
Capital on the map
New York
Largest fashion marketing center in the U.S.
Known for the Seventh Avenue garment
district in Manhattan
Permanent showrooms of manufacturers
from the U.S. and around the world
Open weekdays year round
New York City, New
York
Los Angeles, California
Los Angeles, California
• CaliforniaMart is the
largest fashion and
textile facility in the U.S.
• An 82-block garment
district includes
designers, wholesalers,
manufacturers, and
patternmakers.
• Hosts a fashion week
five times a year
• Primarily serves the
West coast
Paris
• Considered the world
fashion leader
• Shows attract over
40,000 visitors and 1,100
exhibitors from 30
countries
• Prêt-à-porter Paris®
shows twice a year at the
same times as massproduced lines but at
different locations
Paris, France
Haute couture businesses are located in city
“fashion houses” rather than in commercial
buildings.
The Chambre Syndicale De La
Couture is the regulating
commission that determines
which fashion design
Sponsors a school to educate
apprentices
Chambre Syndicale De La
Couture
French Fashion Designers
Pierre Balmain
Pierre Cardin
Coco Chanel
André Courrèges
Christian Dior
Jean Paul Gaultier
Nicolas Ghesquière
Hubert de Givenchy
Daniel Hechter
Christian Lacroix
Christian Louboutin
Marcel Marongiu
Jean Patou
Sonya Rykiel
Yves Saint-Laurent
Hedi Slimane
Chantal Thomas
Louis Vuitton
Michel Abraham
Milan, Italy
• Alta moda: The high fashion
industry in Italy.
• Rome is the center for couture.
• Milan is the center for highquality ready-to-wear.
• Florence is known for lowerpriced ready-to-wear, menswear,
children’s wear, and knitwear.
• Main collections are shown in
fashion fairs prior to the French
showings.
ITALY
Italian Designers
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Dolce e Gabbana
Giorgio Armani
Byblos
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Gianni Versace
Fendi
Salvatore Ferragamo
Gianfranco Ferre
Alberta Ferretti
London
• London is the major
fashion center.
• Bond Street is the
creative center.
Fashion week twice a year
• Top ready-to-wear
designers belong to a coop association called
London Designer
Collections.
GREAT BRITAIN
Tokyo
Tokyo Designers
Jin Abe
Barbara Bui
Hiroko Koshino
Junko Koshino
Issey Miyake
Hanae Mori
Yuki Torii
International
Kansai Yamamoto
• Choose a country from the following list: China,
France, Germany, India, Japan, Mexico
• Find the colors of the country’s flag and color the
flag. Cut it out and paste it to the back of the map
(leave room to paste the paper doll)
• Tell me which country you want and I will print out
the paper doll.
• Cut out and color the paper doll and her clothes and
past it to the back of the map along with the flag
Designer Capitals Project
Fashion Fairy Tale
• Choose 2 (male or female)
characters from a fairy tale.
• Create a costume for the
characters placing them in a
different time period.
• Draw them on the croquis on
the front table