Bedding Plants from Seed
You can save yourself lots of money every year by growing your own bedding
plants. Some are very easy to grow, some are more challenging, but well worth
the attempt.
Seed
Start with good seed. The freshest, high quality commercial seed from a reputable seed house
will indicate a percent germination figure. The seed catalogues will also have information on
how to treat the seed, when to plant, transplant, light, temperature, etc. Stokes is the most
informative source I have found so far. Don't be put off by the detailed requirements, however, if
your growing room is 75 F instead of 72 F as it says in the book, don't panic, you'll probably still
get good results.
If you're using seed you collected yourself, old seed from last year, or other unknown types,
plant these a little heavier in the tray to make up for low germination rates.
Soil
This is the next most important factor. For most seeds, they will be in the seeding tray for only a
short time before you transplant them out to the larger 4 or 6 packs. For this reason the soil does
not need a lot of fertilizer or other nutrients. The best mix I have found is a combination of fine
peat moss, sand, or perlite and no actual soil. You can get commercial potting mixes, Sunshine
Mix, for instance that even have a wetting agent for the peat moss and some other useful
additives.
Use this mix straight out of the bag for your first planting. Make sure you pack the soil firmly in
the trays, level and smooth. Water the mix before you fill the trays, after you fill the trays and
once more after you add the seed. Always add water fr
newly planted seed.
om the bottom for
For the transplants you may want to add some black soil to the commercial mix to give it some
body, some more minerals, and a little more nutrients for the plants. You will have to fertilize
these trays over the growing period.
Use sterilized black soil if possible, otherwise you'll have weeds growing in your seed trays.
Heat garden loam in the oven at 350 F for about an hour to kill weed seeds, pests and disease
organisms.
Trays
Start the first seeds in small trays, 6 per flat or 8 per flat, or even yogurt containers. All the trays
and containers must have drainage holes in the bottom. You don't need to add gravel to the
bottom of the pot, just soil mix all the way down.
Transplant individual seedlings to 48 per tray or smaller so that you get individual plants and can
transplant them into the garden without damaging the roots.
Seeding
Follow the recommendations in the seed catalogue. Sprinkle seeds sparingly over the surface.
Keep in mind you want to be able to get separate seedlings out again in a few weeks. Cover the
seeds with a layer of fine soil mix and tamp down firmly with another tray of the same size. You
need good contact between the soil particles and the seed. Water from the bottom. Seeds that
need cold treatment can be put in the fridge at this point.
Water
For tiny, delicate seedlings bottom watering will cause the least disturbance. Purists will use
room temperature water rather than cold water straight from the hose.
Over watering is the most common cause of disease in bedding plants. The soil surface should
not be constantly moist! Allow the soil to dry out between watering. Do not stress the plants for
lack of water, wilting will slow down growth and may cause the plants to harden up, and mature
too soon.
Transplanting
You will need to move the tiny seedlings from the first seeding tray to individual pots. The first
leaves are cotyledons, seed leaves and not true leaves. Wait until you get 2 or more regular
leaves developed until moving to the larger trays.
Use a dibble, a pencil sized stick with a rounded end (actually a dull pencil works fine) to loosen
the seedlings from the bottom. Grasp the plant by the leaves, never by the stem. The tiny stems
are delicate and easily crushed just from the pressure of your fingers holding on.
Make a hole with the dibble in the new soil, drop the seedling in and pack the soil up sideways
around it with the dibble. You can set the seedlings a little deeper in the soil than they were
before. New roots will grow out of the section of the stem that's now under the surface.
Disease
The most common disease problem in seedlings is "damping off" caused by several fungal
pathogens living at the soil surface. The fungi like a moist environment and so over watering
increases this problem. The fungus attacks the seedling at the base of the stem, withering the
stem, causing the plant to tip over. The symptoms include a brown or black lesion at the base of
the stem. The fungus can spread rapidly to other plants in the tray and to other trays through
airborne spores, water splashes and mechanical transfer on tools and hands. The initial
contamination comes from spores present in all types of soil, and is ubiquitous. The only true
control is to not over water!
Stress
If the plants are stressed in the seed trays, they will mature too quickly, going to Flower early
and giving you short, small, not very numerous Flowers. Once the plant has started to mature it's
very difficult to reverse the process.
To avoid this problem don't let the plants get drought stressed in the trays. Don't let them get
over heated in a hot dry location. Don't let them get crowded in containers that are too small, or
with too many plants in the same pot. Adding nitrogen fertilizer will keep the plants in the
juvenile stages with softer growth, less likely to mature ahead of time. Stay away from too much
potassium fertilizer.
Many garden centres will offer bedding plants already in Flower in the transplant trays. Don't
buy these, they are already too mature for such a small plant and will not be vigorous enough
and large enough to be useful.
Labels
Be sure to label everything very clearly with a waterproof marker. Include species, variety,
colour and date of planting, and transplanting. It's very difficult to tell seedlings apart, especially
in the early stages.
Which Plants To Start Ahead
Here's a list of species that are easy to start ahead and should be attempted.
Annual statice - leaps out of the ground. Start 4 - 6 weeks ahead to get large vigorous
transplants.
StrawFlowers - same as annual statice, very easy.
Perennials - any perennials can be seeded at home. Even if you're late planting them, if you can
get a small plant established in the garden before fall, you'll have a healthy perennial plant going
for the following year. You can leave the perennials until after the spring annuals rush.
Cuttings - many herbs belong to the mint family, look for square stems. All of these can be
grown easily from cuttings and transplanted just like the seeded bedding plants. Geraniums grow
best from cuttings. Watch for fungal diseases and over watering problems with un-rooted stems.
Celosia - do not stress too much.
Ornamental Corn - the only way to get mature cobs from the fancy types.
Which Plants To Direct Seed - Don't Start Ahead
Many plants actually produce better if they're planted directly into the ground rather than started
indoors.
Larkspur - definitely needs to be direct seeded. Can be planted in fall and very early in spring.
Gourds and pumpkins - Cucurbits do not transplant well.
Celosia - may do better if direct seeded early. May need some protection from spring cold
temperatures.
Poppies, Bachelor Buttons, Cosmos, Dill - anything that self sows will be good for direct
seeding. May be fall planted. Grains and Grasses - ornamental grasses and field crops.
SunFlowers - can be planted sequentially from fall, early spring, to the end of July.
Nigella Basil - try this, it works. Extend the season by covering early plantings with a tunnel of
double layer poly to keep spring frosts out.
1. Remove Plant
Carefully remove your plant from its container. This can be harder than it sounds
sometimes!
Never pull any plant out of its container by its leaves. If the plant doesn't have a
solid root system yet, you run the risk of yanking the top right off the plant
In the case of a jumbo pack, just give the bottom of the container a light pinch, then
turn the container over as you gently work the plant out.
Always work the plant out from the bottom and then gently pull the root ball from the
sides as the plant starts to come out.
Click on pictures for a larger image
2. Plant at Correct Depth
Always plant at the correct depth. You want the top of the root ball to be at the same
level as the soil level you are planting too. Below is how to plant correctly.
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3. Avoid Planting Too High
If you plant the root ball too high, it will dry out and either die, or just not thrive and
do well.
Click on pictures for a larger image
4. Avoid Planting Too Low
If you plant the root ball too low, and you get soil up around the stem or crown of the
plant, it will rot. Very few plants can be planted too low and survive.
Keep this in mind because sometimes after you plant and water in, the plant will
"settle", meaning it will sink down into the hole you dug. So always check the level of
the root ball after watering just to make sure it hasn't settled and the root ball is still at
the correct level.
Click on pictures for a larger image
5. Water In
You can water in with regular water, or what I like to do, is water in with liquid
fertilizer. It gives the plant some much needed nutrients and gets it off to a good start.
After watering, check to make sure the root ball has not settled and is still at the
correct level.
Click on pictures for a larger image
6. Put Down Snail Bait
Lastly, give your plants some protection from snails and slugs! Don't wait to do this. I
have seen people plant one day, and have everything demolished by the next day,
because overnight the slugs and snails wiped everything out.
Snail bait now. Put down fresh snail bait weekly to keep your plants safe.
If you have children or pets, and there is room, cover the bait with an upside down foil
baking tin with holes cut out on the sides. Put a rock on the tin. That way the snails can
get in, but it keeps your pets and kids out.
Click on pictures for a larger image
7. Enjoy Your Plants!
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CMV is primarily spread by aphids that can acquire the virus in as little as 5 to 10 seconds.
Aphids then move the virus from plant to plant for a few hours.
Management: Rogue diseased plants. Eliminate weeds such as common pokeweed, chickweed,
field bindweed, yellow rocket, and bittersweet nightshade that may be reservoirs of CMV.
Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV)
TMV has a wide host range but is especially a concern on solanaceous crops. In recent years,
TMV has been reported on pepper, petunia, and tomato. TMV is not transmitted by insects! It is
a very stable virus that can be spread by contact. Workers can easily spread TMV when they
handle plants or when cutting tools become contaminated. TMV can persist in dried tobacco
leaves, so tobacco products can also be a source of TMV.
Symptoms: Symptoms include yellow mottling, upward leaf curling and overall stunting. Some
infected plants may not show any symptoms at all.
Management: Discard infected plants including roots. Disinfect hands by washing with milk, or
tri-sodium phosphate and then thoroughly with soap and water. Smokers need to wash their
hands before entering the greenhouse so they do not infect plants. In greenhouses, hard surfaces
such as doorknobs, or flats can become contaminated after handling virus-infected plants and
remain a source of infection. Thoroughly disinfect the growing area with a commercial
disinfectant. Control perennial weeds in the solanaceous family such as ground cherry and
horsenettle that could be reservoirs of TMV.
Tospoviruses
Tospoviruses are a group of viruses that include impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) and tomato
spotted wilt virus (TSWV). They may infect hundreds of plant species including basil, tomatoes,
peppers and eggplant. These viruses are primarily spread by the western flower thrips.
Tospoviruses are not seedborne but are brought into the greenhouse on vegetatively propagated
ornamental plants or seedlings that have been exposed to the virus. Once the thrips in the
greenhouse become infected, they can transmit the virus to susceptible crops and weeds.
Symptoms: Symptoms include stunting, foliar ringspots and black lesions on stems. Symptoms
of INSV and TSWV will vary depending upon the host.
Management: To manage Tospoviruses, it is necessary to discard infected plant material,
including weeds and to manage thrips. Infected vegetable transplants planted into the garden or
field will be stunted and will not produce a harvestable crop. Since INSV and TSWV are not
seed-borne, vegetable transplants may be kept free of Tospoviruses if they are not brought into
contact with other infested crops or thrips carrying the virus. Growers attempting to concentrate
all their warm temperature crops in a single house run a risk of mixing Tospovirus-free vegetable
seed crops with leftover ornamental stock plants or new cuttings that may carry the virus. Prefinished or vegetatively propagated ornamentals from another producer could be infested with
thrips or a virus. Therefore, vegetable bedding plants should always be grown in separate
greenhouses.
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General Pest Management
Monitoring
A regular monitoring program is the basis of all pest management programs. Conduct a regular,
weekly scouting program to detect problems early. This early detection and treatment will result
in better pest control since plant canopies are smaller and better spray coverage can be achieved.
Yellow Sticky Cards
Use yellow sticky cards to trap and detect adult stages of fungus gnats, thrips and whiteflies.
Place one to four cards per 1,000 square feet. The cards should be spaced equally throughout the
greenhouse in a grid pattern with additional cards located near doorways and vents. Place some
cards just above the plant canopy (to detect thrips and whiteflies) and some of the cards on the
rim of the flats or pots to detect fungus gnats. Inspect and replace the cards weekly to keep track
of population trends.
Plant Inspection
Plant inspection is needed to assess general plant health and to detect diseases, mites and aphids
plus any hot spots of immature whiteflies. Randomly select plants at ten locations in an area of
1,000 square feet, examining plants on each side of the aisle. Start this pattern at a slightly
different location each week, walking through the greenhouse in a zigzag pattern down the
walkway. Examine the underside of leaves for insect pests and inspect root systems to determine
whether they are healthy.
Key Plants and Indicator Plants
Focus on scouting key plants and indicator plants. Key plants are those plants or cultivars that
have serious, persistent problems every year. For example, peppers, tomatoes and eggplants are
prone to aphid infestations. Look for aphids on the young leaves and for shiny honeydew on the
upper leaf surface. If grown near flowering plants, peppers, tomatoes and eggplant will also
indicate an early thrips population. Look for distorted, young leaves with silvery flecked scars
that are signs of thrips feeding damage.
Fava beans and certain cultivars of petunia are used as indicator plants to detect the presence of
thrips carrying INSV and TSWV. These plants will develop viral symptoms within one week if
fed on by the infected thrips. The petunia cultivar 'Summer Madness' and several varieties of
fava bean have been successfully used to detect tospoviruses. To use petunias and fava beans as
indicator plants:
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Remove flowers from indicator plants to encourage feeding on foliage where symptoms can be
observed.
Place a blue non-sticky card in each pot at plant height. The blue card will attract thrips to the
indicator plant. Blue plastic picnic plates work well.
Place petunia plants throughout the greenhouse among the crop at a rate of one plant every 2030 feet and fava bean plants at the rate of 12 pots per 1,000 sq. ft.
Remove symptomatic leaves on petunia plants and continue to use the plants. The virus is not
systemic in these plants. Thrips feeding injury leaves distinct white feeding scars on the foliage.
Virus symptoms appear as a brown rim around the feeding scars.
Remove entire plants of fava beans if symptoms are observed, because the virus is systemic in
these plants. Viral symptoms appear as dark brown angular lesions on leaves or yellow to light
green ring spots. Dark necrotic areas can also be seen on the stem. Fava beans have dark black
spots on their stipules that should not be confused with viral symptoms.
Replace with new plants, planting 1-2 bean seeds per 4'' pot.
Record Keeping and Decision-Making
Each time the crop is scouted, record the pest numbers, their location and the number of plants
inspected. Records on pest numbers and locations will help you identify population trends.
Population trends will also indicate if initial control measures were successful or if they need to
be repeated. Once this information is collected each week, a pest management decision can then
be made. Monitoring and record keeping will answer the following questions and help you make
the necessary treatment decisions. Is the population decreasing, increasing or remaining stable
over the growing season? Do you need to spray? Are insects migrating from weeds under the
benches to your crops? Is the treatment from last week working? Table 2 provides a list of
selected materials labeled for managing insects, mites and diseases on greenhouse-grown
vegetable transplants. Follow label instructions before using the material on vegetable bedding
plants. The product must be used only for crops for which the compound is registered.
Biological Control for Insects and Mites
Biological control may be an option for aphids, mites, fungus gnats, thrips and whiteflies.
Natural enemies are living organisms that need to be released when pest populations are low.
They do not act as quickly as pesticides so cannot be used as a "rescue" treatment. Natural
enemies (parasites, predators or pathogens) are best used early in the cropping cycle when plants
are small, pest numbers are low and damage is not yet observed. A detailed plan of action is
needed to insure success. Accurately identify the key pests in your production system. Natural
enemies, especially parasites, are often very specific to a particular pest. Many insecticide
residues can adversely affect natural enemies for up to 3 months after their application. Koppert
Biological Systems has compiled a list of insecticides and their effects on natural enemies. This
list is available through their website www.koppert.com. Biobest Biological Systems also has a
searchable pesticide side effects database on their website: www.biobest.be . Become familiar
with using insecticides that are compatible with natural enemies such as insecticidal soap,
horticultural oil, certain insect growth regulators and neem-based materials (azadirachtin
products, see Table 1) and have a sprayer dedicated for their use.
Start in a small trial area to become familiar with releasing, monitoring and evaluating the
effectiveness of natural enemies. A separate greenhouse is best. With help from your supplier
and university specialist, establish a schedule for introducing the natural enemies. Release rates
and timing will vary depending upon the crop and its size, the degree of infestation, effectiveness
and type of natural enemies, plus the time of year. Starting a biological control program will
involve some trial and error, as release rates have not been scientifically evaluated for vegetable
bedding plants. Vegetable bedding plants with only one or two key insect pests or with a longer
production schedule may be logical candidates for biological control. Be sure that natural
enemies are received from your supplier quickly (2-4 days), and that they are kept cool during
shipment. Inspect natural enemies for viability and quality when they are received. Table 3
provides information on scouting for key pests and biological control options.
Specific Insect Pests and Mites
Common insect pests on vegetable bedding plants include aphids, fungus gnats, shore flies,
whiteflies, thrips and two-spotted spider mites. The following are brief descriptions, life cycles
and monitoring tips for the major pests. See tables 2 and 3, for additional scouting guidelines,
registered pesticides and biological control options.
Aphids
Lifecycle: Several species of aphids can occur on vegetable transplants, but the most common
are green peach, melon and foxglove. Aphids are small, 1/16-inch in length, round, soft-bodied
insects that vary in color from light green to pink or black. The green peach aphid is yellowishgreen in summer; pink or yellowish in fall and spring. Winged forms are brown with a large
dusky blotch on the abdomen. Melon aphids are greenish-yellow to very dark green with black
mottling and short dark cornicles (tubular structures on the posterior part of the abdomen).
Foxglove aphids are smaller than potato aphids but larger than melon and green peach aphids.
The foxglove aphid is a shiny light yellowish green to dark green in color with a pear-shaped
body. The only markings on the bodies of wingless adults are dark green patches at the base of
the cornicle. The legs and antennae also have black markings. Foxglove aphids cause more leaf
distortion than green peach or melon aphids. Aphids feed by inserting their piercing, sucking
mouthparts into plant tissue and removing fluids. In greenhouses, aphids are usually females that
produce live young called nymphs. Each female can produce 50 or more nymphs. Nymphs
mature to adulthood and begin reproducing in as little as 7 to 10 days. Adults are usually
wingless, but some will produce wings when populations reach outbreak levels. Large numbers
of aphids will stunt and deform plants. In addition, aphids produce a sticky digestive by-product
called honeydew. Honeydew can cover leaves and provide a food source for a superficial black
fungus known as sooty mold. Aphids are present on weeds and may enter the greenhouse
through vents.
Monitoring: Examine the foliage, along stems and new growth of key plants such as peppers,
eggplants, Cole crops and leafy greens to detect an early aphid infestation. Signs of aphid
activity include shed white skins, shiny honeydew, curled new leaves, distorted growth and the
presence of ants. Yellow sticky cards help detect the entrance of winged aphids into the
greenhouse from outdoors. Yellow cards will not, however, allow you to monitor aphids within
the crop, as most of the aphids will be wingless.
Whiteflies
Lifecycle: The silverleaf whitefly (Bemisia argentifolii) and greenhouse whitefly (Trialeurodes
vaporariorum) may infest vegetable bedding plants. However, greenhouse whitefly is the most
common species. Both adult and immature whiteflies have piercing sucking mouthparts, are able
to remove fluids and produce honeydew that also results in sooty mold fungus. Winged adult
whiteflies are 1/16-inch in length, and found on the undersides of the youngest, most tender
leaves. Females may lay from 150 to 300 eggs, which hatch into first-instar nymphs in about a
week. The crawlers move for a short distance before settling down to feed. After three molts, a
pupal stage is formed from which adults emerge in about six days. Whiteflies complete their egg
to adult cycle in 21 to 36 days depending upon greenhouse temperatures.
Monitoring: To monitor whiteflies, check susceptible plants, such as tomatoes, at ten locations
in an area of 1,000 square feet, examining plants on each side of the aisle. Look on the
undersides of one or two leaves per plant, for nymphs, pupa and adults. Yellow sticky traps can
also be used to detect adult whiteflies once populations have reached higher densities. Begin
treatments as soon as the first sign of infestation is noted.
Fungus Gnats and Shore Flies
Lifecycle: The damp, moist environment in greenhouses favors both fungus gnats and shore
flies. Fungus gnat larvae are translucent, white and legless, about 1/4 inch long when mature, and
have a shiny black head. The mosquito-like adult is about 1/8 inch long, with long legs, a pair of
clear wings and long antennae. There is a distinct "Y" vein on each wing. Fungus gnats are weak
fliers and are frequently observed resting on pot media or running over the foliage or other
surfaces. The larvae feed on fungi and decaying organic matter, and often injure seedlings and
plants. Larva feeding occurs on young, tender roots and in the stem at the base of the plant. This
feeding injury provides an entry for disease pathogens. A female fungus gnat may lay up to 300
whitish eggs in clusters of 20 or more. The eggs are deposited on the surface or in the crevices of
moist soil or potting media. Eggs hatch in about six days. Larvae feed for 12 to 14 days before
changing into pupae. The pupal stage may last five to six days. Adults live up to ten days. The
life cycle from egg to adult requires approximately three to four weeks depending on greenhouse
temperatures.
Adult shore flies also occur in greenhouses and are confused with fungus gnats. The adult shore
fly is about 1/8 inch long and has a robust body, very short antennae, shorter legs and dark wings
with about five light spots. Larvae are off-white and do not have distinct head capsules. Shore
flies do not injure plants through direct feeding, but can carry root rot pathogens from diseased to
healthy plants. Their fecal spots or droppings can also be unsightly. To manage shore flies,
control their food source, algae.
Monitoring: To monitor for fungus gnat larvae, place raw potato chunks with peel removed on
the media surface. Larvae are attracted to the potato chunks, under which they move and
congregate. Check the potato chunks after 2 days for larvae. Potato disks cut one inch in
diameter and 0.5-1 inch thick work well. In addition, choose plants on each bench and inspect
the soil surface and around the base of the plant including the stem just below the soil line.
Record the location and the level of infestation. Badly infested plants should be removed as they
serve as a source of infestation.
Adult flies can be monitored with yellow sticky cards placed at the base of the plant at soil line.
Weekly inspections of yellow sticky cards can detect the onset of an infestation, and continued
recording of the number of adults per card per week can aid in evaluating the efficacy of control
efforts.
Thrips
Lifecycle: The most injurious species is the western flower thrips (WFT). They often do
considerable damage before they are discovered, because thrips are small, multiply rapidly and
feed in plant buds in which they can remain undetected. WFT also vector tospoviruses. Feeding
marks from the rasping mouthparts of thrips appear as white streaks on the leaves. Infested new
growth may curl under and leaves are often deformed. Adult WFT are about 1/16-inch long, with
narrow bodies and fringed wings. Females are reddish brown and males are light tan to yellow.
The immature stages are light yellow. Female thrips insert eggs (several hundred per female) into
plant tissue. The tiny yellowish larvae molt twice and feed on plant fluids as they mature. Larvae
drop off the plant into the soil and pass through two stages, after which adults emerge. The egg
to adult lifecycle can be completed in 7 to 13 days depending upon greenhouse temperature.
During warmer temperatures development is more rapid than at cooler temperatures.
Monitoring: Early detection of a thrips infestation is critical for effective management because
populations are lower and it is easier to obtain good coverage when plant canopies are small.
Symptoms of their feeding are often not noticed until the damage has occurred. Eggplant,
tomatoes, and peppers are especially prone to thrips infestations. Yellow sticky cards, key plants
and indicator plants provide an easy way to detect the onset of an infestation. Yellow sticky
cards should be placed just above the crop canopy, and near doors, vents and over thripssensitive cultivars to monitor the movement of thrips. Recent research has shown the light to
medium-blue sticky cards catch more thrips than yellow ones. However, it is more practical to
use yellow cards for general pest monitoring to attract fungus gnats, whiteflies and winged
aphids. The number of thrips per card should be recorded and graphed weekly to monitor
population levels and movement in or out of the greenhouse, and thus aid in control decisions.
See section on key plants and indicator plants for more monitoring information.
Spider Mites
Lifecycle: Two-spotted spider mites can be found on vegetable bedding plants. Adult females
are approximately 1/50-inch long, and slightly orange in color. All mobile stages are able to
pierce plant tissue with their mouthparts and remove plant fluids. Most spider mites are found on
the underside of leaves. Feeding injury often gives the top leaf surfaces a mottled or speckled,
dull appearance. Leaves then turn yellow and drop. Large populations produce visible webbing
that can completely cover the leaves. Eggs are laid singly, up to 100 per female, during her 3 to
4-week life span. Eggs hatch into larvae in as few as 3 days. Following a brief larval stage,
several nymphal stages occur before adults appear. Egg to adult cycle can be completed in 7-14
days depending upon temperature. Hot and dry conditions favor spider mite development.
Monitoring: Checking for mites must be done by examining foliage. Adult mites are not found
on sticky cards. Mites often develop as localized infestations on particular groups of plants such
as beans, tomatoes, or eggplants. Sample plants by turning over leaves and with a hands-free
magnifier (Optivisor) or hand lens, check for the presence of spider mites.
Cyclamen Mites
Life Cycle: The shiny, orange-tinted cyclamen mites prefer to hide in buds or deep within the
flowers. Adult females can lay from 2 to 3 eggs per day for up to two to three weeks. Eggs are
deposited in moist places at the base of the plant. Cyclamen mites can complete their life cycle in
1 to 3 weeks. Females can live up to one month and can reproduce without mating. Cyclamen
mite females lay 2 to 3 eggs per day for up to two to three weeks. Cyclamen mite eggs are oval,
smooth and about one half the size of the adult female. Larvae hatch from the eggs in 3 to 7 days.
The slow moving white larvae feed for 4 to 7 days. Cyclamen mites prefer high relative humidity
and temperatures of 60 o F. Cyclamen mites feed upon many ornamental bedding plants
including dahlia, fuchsia, gerbera daisy, petunias, viola as well as strawberries in the field. They
may migrate to peppers or tomatoes.
Monitoring: Cyclamen m ites pierce tissue with their mouthparts and suck out cell contents.
Look for signs of damage which may be concentrated near the buds or occur on the entire plant.
Symptoms include inward curling of the leaves, puckering and crinkling. Pit like depressions
may develop. The mite is only 1/100 of an inch long. Examination under a microscope is often
needed to confirm the presence of cyclamen mites.
Broad Mites
Life Cycle: Broad mites are closely related to cyclamen mites. They can be distinguished from
cyclamen mites by their egg stage. Eggs are covered with "bumps" that look like a row of
diamonds. Eggs are best seen using a dissecting microscope. Adults and larvae are smaller than
the cyclamen mites and walk rapidly on the underside of leaves. Broad mites can also attach
themselves to whiteflies and use the whiteflies as a carrier for their dispersal. The development
of broad mites is favored by high temperatures (70 to 80 o F). Broad mites can complete their
life cycle in as little as one week. Females lay from 30 to 75 eggs.
Monitoring: Broad mites can affect a number of ornamentals including gerbera daisy, New
Guinea Impatiens, saliva, ivy, verbena and zinnia. They may migrate to peppers or tomatoes.
Look for characteristic damage including leaf edges curling downward or terminal buds may be
killed. As they feed, broad mites inject toxic saliva, which results in twisted, distorted growth.
Do not confuse broad mite injury with herbicide injury, nutritional (boron) deficiencies or
physiological disorders. With a 20x hand lens, inspect the underside of the leaves for the mites
and their eggs.
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Weed Management
In greenhouses, weeds are a primary source of insects such as aphids, whiteflies, thrips, and
other pests such as mites, slugs and diseases. Low growing weeds help maintain moist
conditions, a favorable environment for fungus gnats and shore flies. Many common greenhouse
weeds such as chickweed, oxalis, bittercress, jewelweed, dandelion and ground ivy can become
infected with tospoviruses including impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) and tomato spotted
wilt virus (TSWV) while showing few, if any visible symptoms. Thrips can then vector the virus
to susceptible greenhouse crops. Weeds can also carry other plant damaging viruses that are
vectored by aphids. An integrated weed management program will help to effectively manage
weed populations. This approach includes preventive measures such as sanitation and physical
barriers, and control measures such as hand weeding and the selective use of postemergence
herbicides.
The use of a physical barrier such as a weed block fabric is an effective method to limit weed
establishment on greenhouse floors. The weed fabric should be left bare so it can be easily swept.
Covering the weed fabric with gravel makes it difficult to remove any spilled potting media
providing an ideal environment for weed growth. Regularly pull any escaped weeds before they
go to seed. Repair tears in the weed block fabric.
Few herbicides are labeled for use in a greenhouse due to the potential for severe crop injury or
death to desirable plants. This injury may occur in a number of ways including: 1) spray drift if
fans are operating at the time of application, and 2) volatilization (changing from a liquid to a
gas). Herbicide vapors are then easily trapped within an enclosed greenhouse and injure desirable
plant foliage. Always be sure the herbicide selected is labeled for use in the greenhouse.
Carefully follow all label instructions and precautions. It is the applicator’s responsibility to read
and follow all label directions. Use a dedicated sprayer that is clearly labeled for herbicide use
only.
Avoid use of preemergence herbicides in the greenhouse! Preemergence herbicides are applied to
soil to prevent the emergence of seedlings. There are currently no preemergence herbicides
labeled for greenhouse use. They can persist for many months and in some cases over a year.
Preemergence herbicides can continue to vaporize in the greenhouse, causing significant damage
to young transplants.(Note: Surflan (oryzalin) is no longer registered for use in enclosed
greenhouses).
Postemergence herbicides are applied after the weeds have emerged. Several postemergence
herbicides can be used under greenhouse benches and on the floors. Contact herbicides are best
applied to small seedlings. Large weeds will be burned but not killed.
Herbicides for use in greenhouses
Clethodim (Envoy Plus): Selective, postemergence herbicide, for the control of grasses only,
works by contact. For use when crops are in the greenhouse.
Clove oil (Matratec): Non-selective, postemergence herbicide. Works by contact. For use when
crops are in the greenhouse.
Diquat dibromide (Diquat E Pro ZL, Reward): Non-selective. Works by contact. For use when
crops are in the greenhouse.
Glyphosate (Glyphosate Pro 4, Razor, Roundup Pro, Roundup Pro Concentrate, Touchdown
Pro): Non-selective postemergence herbicides. Systemic. For use in an empty greenhouse
between crops and outside greenhouses.
Pelargonic acid (Scythe): Non-selective, postemergence, contact herbicide. Cool or cloudy
weather may slow down activity. Provides no residual weed control but leaves a strong odor. For
use when crops are in the greenhouse.
Rosemary oil, clove oil, thyme oil (Sporatec): Non-selective, postemergence herbicide. Works by
contact. For use when crops are in the greenhouse.
Weed control outside greenhouses
In addition to mowing, herbicides may also be used outside of greenhouses. Before spraying
weeds around the greenhouse with any herbicide, close windows and vents to prevent spray drift
from entering the greenhouse. Avoid using auxin-type herbicides, such as those labeled for
broadleaf weed control in turf or brush killers, or herbicides with high volatility near
greenhouses. Select herbicides with low volatility.
Return to Top
References and Resources:
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New England Vegetable Recommendation Guide: Vegetable Transplant Production
Biernbaum, John. MSU Develop a Transplant Action Plan
Biernbaum, John. 2006. MSU Organic Greenhouse Transplants; Illinois Organic Conference.
http://www.msuorganicfarm.com/Transplants.pdf
Publications: Organic Greenhouse Vegetable Production, Potting Mixes for Certified Organic
Production, Organic Greenhouse Tomato Production, Plug and Transplant Production for
Organic Systems
http://www.attra.org/horticultural.html#Greenhouse
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ATTRA - National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service
http://www.attra.org/horticultural.html#Greenhouse
The National Organic Program Guidelines
http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/indexIE.htm
Organic Potting Mix Basics, eXtension
Tina Smith
Greenhouse Crops and Floriculture Program
University of Massachusetts
Leanne Pundt
University of Connecticut
Cooperative Extension System
Selecting, Hardening, and Planting Bedding Plants
This article was published originally on 4/11/2003
Byline:
by Richard Jauron, Department of Horticulture
Bedding Plants
Home gardeners will soon be buying bedding plants (annual flowers and vegetables) from local
garden centers and greenhouses. To help ensure a successful start to the gardening season, select
strong, healthy plants and harden them outdoors for a few days before planting. Proper planting
is another key to success.
Selection
Select short, stocky plants with dark green foliage. Avoid tall, spindly plants. Smaller seedlings
become established in the garden more quickly than larger ones. Also, smaller plants are often
more productive. When selecting bedding plants, "large" is usually not better.
Hardening
Bedding plants purchased from greenhouses or garden centers should not be planted directly into
the garden. The intense sun and strong winds may damage or kill the tender seedlings. Bedding
plants should be "hardened" (acclimated to outdoor growing conditions) before transplanting
them into the garden. Initially place the plants in a shady, protected site. Then gradually expose
the plants to longer periods of direct sun. Closely watch the plants during this period. If possible,
check on them at least once or twice a day. Thoroughly water the seedlings when the soil surface
becomes dry to the touch. Move the plants indoors if strong winds, a severe storm, or an
overnight frost threatens them. After 7 to 10 days of hardening, the bedding plants should be
ready for planting.
Planting
Most annual flowers should be planted outdoors when the danger of frost is past. A few frost
tolerant annuals, such as pansy, sweet alyssum, and snapdragon, can be planted 2 to 3 weeks
earlier. Cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower seedlings can be planted outdoors in early April in
southern Iowa; gardeners in northern counties should wait until mid- to late April. Tomatoes,
peppers, cucumbers, melons, and other warm season vegetables should be planted after the
average last frost date in your area.
If possible, set the plants into the garden in the evening or on a cloudy day. Planting at these
times lessens transplant shock and allows the plants to recover somewhat before being exposed
to direct sun. Many annuals, such as petunia, snapdragon, salvia, and periwinkle, should be
pinched back to encourage branching. Others, such as impatiens, are self-branching and don't
require pinching. It's also advisable to remove flowers on blooming annuals. Blossom removal
aids plant establishment. Vegetable transplants should not be pinched.
When watering newly planted transplants, apply a starter fertilizer solution to each plant. A
starter fertilizer solution can be prepared by mixing 2 tablespoons of an all-purpose garden
fertilizer, such as 5-10-5, in 1 gallon of water. When the fertilizer has completely dissolved, give
each plant approximately 1 cup of the starter fertilizer solution.
Set pepper and tomato seedlings deep in the soil for better root production.
Tomatoes and peppers are warm-season plants that benefit from being planted deep. The depth is
slightly different for each plant but serves the same purpose. Plant the seedlings in the garden
when there is no risk of frost for the entire growing season. A sunny area with a well-draining
and nutrient-rich soil will provide the best results.
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Tomato Depth
Tomatoes become heavy with fruit as the season nears harvest time. Pinching off the bottom sets
of leaves on the stem opens up the area for root production. You should also remove leaf sets on
the lower stem if they will end up under the soil level when planting. Make sure to leave two to
three sets of leaves on the top of the seedling. Measure the height of the seedling from the
bottom of the root ball to just under the bottom set of leaves remaining on the plant to help
determine the depth of the planting hole. Set the tomato seedling into the hole so the remaining
sets of leaves are above the soil level.
Pepper Depth
You should plant peppers deep into the soil for the same reasons as the tomato plant. Peppers are
set slightly higher than tomatoes, unless the seedling is leggy. Set pepper plants in a hole that is
twice as wide as the seedling root ball and about 1 inch deeper so a portion of the stem is below
soil level. You want the pepper seedling deep enough so the bottom set of leaves on the stem is
just above the soil level.
30 Yr. Fixed 3.668% 3.625%
15 Yr. Fixed 2.951% 2.875%
Learn More >
disclaimer >
Benefits
Planting the seedlings so a large portion of the stem is under the soil promotes a strong root
system to support the plant as it grows and fills with fruit. A large root system can pull moisture
and nutrients from the soil to keep the plant healthy during fruit production.
Considerations
Choose seedlings that are about 6 inches tall at the time of planting. Seedlings with leggy stems
might grow into leggy plants with weak stems. Plant leggy seedlings slightly deeper into the soil
so the long stem can produce more roots for support. The trench method of planting -- where the
leggy seedling so it is laying horizontally in a deep trench -- works well for these seedlings.
Fertilizing Bedding Plants
Nutritional Problems
Bedding plants are subject to the same nutrient disorders as other plants. Early in production
serious problems are: high soluble salts, trace element toxicities, and ammonium toxicity. Late in
production, particularly in cell paks, plants may develop nitrogen deficiency symptoms as the
earliest indication of not enough fertilizer.
Soluble Salts. Injury to bedding plants from excess salts seems to be most common shortly after
transplanting. Seedlings are much less tolerant of salinity than established, rapidly growing
plants. Small or slow-growing seedlings (e.g., begonia, petunia), poor quality seedlings, and
rooted cuttings of New Guinea impatiens are easily harmed by excess salts. Some soilless mixes
may contain enough "starter charge" to cause excess salts problems in the first few weeks after
transplanting , particularly when a water-soluble fertilizer is also applied. Excessive drying, poor
drainage, and uneven watering are factors which can aggravate the problem.
It is difficult to diagnose a soluble salts problem by symptoms alone. Often nutrient deficiencies
and root diseases cause the same symptoms. Therefore a soil test is advisable. A UMass soil test
reading of 100 or greater is excessive during the early stages of growth is a cause for concern.
Trace element toxicities. Iron (Fe) and/or manganese (Mn) can be accumulated to toxic levels by
marigolds, impatiens, seed geraniums and other bedding plants. Symptoms appear as numerous
small dark spots and mottling of the foliage. The potential sources of excess Fe and Mn are: trace
element fertilizers in the mix, water-soluble fertilizers with elevated trace elements levels, and
sometimes irrigation water. Low growth medium pH aggravates the problem by increasing Fe
and Mn availability. Toxicity can be avoided by keeping the pH in the range of 6.0-6.8 for
susceptible crops and through the use of fertilizers with lower trace element levels.
Ammonium toxicity. This is not so common anymore because most growers use water-soluble
fertilizers that supply about 50/50 ammonium and nitrate to fertilize plants in soilless media.
Pansy, petunia, tomato, eggplant, and pepper are most sensitive to ammonium nitrogen, but
many other bedding plants can be harmed if ammonium becomes excessive.
Some Common Liquid Fertilizers and Popular Rates
Rates in this table
are based on the use of an injector set at a 1:200 ratio.
Fertilizer rate - ppm N (oz. /1gal.)
50
100
Fertilizer
Peat-lite
9.0
18.0
15-16-17 or
15-15-15
Peat-lite
6.6
13.2
20-10-20
Calcium nitrate +
5.6+ 3.4
11.2+ 6.8
potassium nitrate
y
One application every 7-10 days.
200
300y
36.0
54.0
26.4
40.0
22.4+ 13.6 33.6+ 17.0
Fertilizer Rates
Use 50-100 ppm N prior to transplanting from the flat or plug tray. Potassium nitrate is best for
this purpose. Use the lower rate (50 ppm) early and the higher rate (100 ppm) if the seedlings are
to be held in the flat or tray three or more weeks before transplanting.
After transplanting fertilize with 200 ppm N at every watering or 300-400 ppm N once every 710 days. Normally a complete, NPK fertilizer is used for fertilizing bedding plants after
transplanting.
Be careful with New Guinea impatiens! Too much fertilizer during the first two to three weeks
after potting may slow their growth. New Guineas actually do better with no fertilizer during the
first two weeks after potting.
Fertilizer Materials
Peat-Lite Specials (15-16-17, 20-10-20). Currently these fertilizers are among the most popular
for routine fertilization of bedding plants. Both are high (>50%) nitrate fertilizers. However these
fertilizers also have elevated trace element levels which may raise Fe and Mn to toxic levels at
low pH. Both are acid-forming fertilizers (see the box), but 20-10-20 has the higher potential
acidity (397 vs. 210).
Potential Acidity and Basicity of
Greenhouse Fertilizers
Fertilizers may raise or lower the pH of the growth medium. Fertilizers are rated as to their
potential acidity or potential basicity. For example, 15-16-17 has a potential acidity of 215
lbs. of calcium carbonate per ton of fertilizer. This means it would take 215 lbs. of calcitic
limestone to neutralize the acidic effect caused by the application of one ton of 15-16-17. On the
other hand 15-0-15 has a potential basicity of 420 lbs. of calcium carbonate per ton of fertilizer.
A ton of 15-0-15 would raise the pH of the growth medium as much as 420 lbs. of calcitic
limestone. In each case, the larger the number the greater the potential effect the fertilizer on pH.
You can find this information on the fertilizer bag of most brands.
15-15-15 Geranium Special. "Triple 15" is a good alternative to the Peat-Lite Specials for crops
sensitive to trace element toxicities. Trace element levels supplied by this fertilizer are lower
than the Peat-lite Specials. Otherwise, at the same rate of N, plant response will be very similar
to 15-16-17. This is an acid-forming fertilizer also; the potential acidity (261) is slightly higher
than 15-16-17.
20-20-20 General Purpose. Growers who use this fertilizer on soilless media risk ammonium
toxicity because the N in this fertilizer is 75% ammonium and urea. Some growers who use
media containing soil do not appear have problems. If 20-20-20 is used, the growing medium
should be tested frequently for ammonium. 20-20-20 supplies trace elements and has the highest
potential acidity (597) of fertilizers commonly used in Massachusetts greenhouses.
Low Phosphorus Fertilizers (20-0-20, 20-1-20, 15-0-15). These fertilizers can be tried as an
alternative to chemical growth regulators for bedding plants. This technique of growth control is
sometimes called "phosphorus starvation". It is generally believed that more P than necessary is
being applied to greenhouse crops. Too much P may cause plants to stretch and P is a pollutant.
Unfortunately, in terms of height control, these fertilizers may be of no benefit if they are applied
to a growth medium containing superphosphate or a high starter charge of P. Also, there is a risk
of P deficiency if the fertilizers are used continuously with low P growth media. Clearly, more
practical research is needed to learn how to use these fertilizers effectively!
The low P fertilizers are quite different in many ways. 15-0-15 and 20-0-20 supply Ca. 15-0-15
is a basic fertilizer containing about 95% nitrate and 20-0-20 is a neutral fertilizer and is 50%
nitrate. 20-1-20 is an acidic fertilizer and it does not supply Ca, but it is about 70% nitrate.
Calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate. Use of this fertilizer combination greatly reduces the
chance of trace element toxicities. Some growers alternate its use with the Peat-Lite Specials on
a 2-3 week basis to supply Ca and to counter the acidic effect of the Peat-lites. However, both
superphosphate and a trace element fertilizer must be incorporated in the growing medium if this
combination is to be used as the sole fertilizer.
EXCEL Fertilizer Program. EXCEL and similar fertilizers made by other manufacturers may be
used to grow bedding plants and provide them with Ca and Mg in a convenient fashion. Incidents
of Ca or Mg deficiency are not as common with bedding plants as with poinsettia, but the
symptoms of these deficiencies have not been fully described, particularly Ca. Therefore in cases
where a soil test shows low levels of Ca, Mg, and pH and the plants are being irrigated with
water of low alkalinity a Ca and Mg program like EXCEL may be beneficial. The EXCEL
program shown on this page is one example; another is to use 15-5-15 Cal-Mag at 200-250 ppm
N. Cal-Mag is a high nitrate fertilizer supplying N, P, K, Ca, and Mg in one material; it is a basic
fertilizer and may raise pH.
EXCEL Program for Spring Crops This constant liquid feed program supplies 200 ppm N, 53 ppm Ca, and
27 ppm Mg. Fertilizer materials may be mixed together without precipitation. Rates are based on the
use of an injector with a 1:200 ratio.
Fertilizer
No. of
25 lb. bags/50 gal.
Oz./gal.
21-5-20
16.1
2
15-0-0
8.0
1
10-0-0
8.0
1
Prepared by Douglas Cox
Plant and Soil Sciences
University of Massachusetts
Amherst, MA 01003
Tom Hanks' "Power of Four" solution
More good stuff:
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Who is Marion Owen?
Did you know you can cut your grocery
bills in half by growing at least some of
your own vegetables?
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How to link to this site
That's right. A packet of 500 lettuce seeds cost the
same as one head of romaine lettuce and grows
into 500 bags of pre-washed, bagged salad
greens!
I've taught gardening classes for 20 years and I'm
amazed at how many people hesitate to start their own seedlings. Not
because it's too complicated (In that case, we wouldn't be driving cars or
using computers). It's mostly because we're afraid to fail.
Need a speaker?
How to contact Marion
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Come to Kodiak Island!
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Newsletter has been
replaced by Marion's blog
which you can find at:
www.marionowen.wordpress.com
"What if I give them too much water?" You might ask. Or "What if I sow too
many seeds?"
Perhaps, negative thoughts like these kick in:
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I've never started seeds on my own
Everything I plant just dies
I'm too old to grow my own seedlings
I don't know where to start
I have a brown thumb
What will the neighbors think?
I tried it once and it didn't work
Sound familiar? Truth is, one of our most limiting beliefs is the belief that we
are not capable of accomplishing a goal, whatever it happens to be. For most
of us, it's a matter of childhood programming which follows into adulthood.
Our jobs, life at home and so on. We can get over that, even with starting
seeds!
Good news! Plants WANT to grow!
And plants know what they're doing. You have that going for you. Like
anything else, it helps to be passionate about seedlings: If you're not into it,
then you won't succeed.
Believe it's possible and believe in yourself. Your brain is designed to solve
any problem and reach any goal that you give it. Listen to Mark Twain: "The
secret of getting ahead is getting started. The secret of getting started is
breaking your complex, overwhelming tasks into small manageable tasks,
and then starting on the first on."
Why it makes perfect sense to grow your own
Whether you have a full-sized garden or a window box, you can enjoy the
fruits of your labors by growing your own vegetables, herbs and flowers.
Starting your own plants from seed:
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You can cut your grocery bill in half by growing your own produce!
Gives you access to an endless variety of plants
You're in control of what you want to grow, and when--No waiting
on the garden centers to make the decision for you!
Save more money! A pack of 500 lettuce seeds cost the same as a
head of romaine. What's more, that same packet of 500 lettuce seeds
will produce 500 bags of pre-washed, bagged salad greens!
Raising your own plants is one of the most satisfying aspects of
gardening
Taking the mystery out of seed starting
Maybe, once upon a time, you tried starting a few seeds, but they flopped.
Or, maybe you're thinking about growing tomatoes for the first time. Either
way, you're in good company because while the process of seed germination
may seem soooo complex, I'll make it reassuringly simple. In the article,
we'll go over:
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When to start seeds indoors
How to use a seed starting timetable for vegetables, flowers and herbs
Containers and soil blockers
The scoop on dirt
How to prevent damping-off disease
How to sow seeds (a pinch to grow an inch)
How to raise seedlings (light, air, fertilizer, etc.)
Transplanting to larger containers
Transplanting outside
-------------------"If you've never started seeds don't worry too much about it.
Remember, nature has designed them to want to grow. You and
the garden seeds have exactly the same goal. . . what could be
more reassuring?"--Ruth Page, radio talk show host
--------------------
As I said, we'll take things step by step. And if I've done my homework, once
you've grown your own basil, broccoli or bee balm, you'll be hooked. Let's
let's start with a little appreciation for:
Those amazing seeds
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Did you know that a single strawberry contains over 200 seeds?
If you bought seeds by the ounce you would get 260,000 petunia
seeds, 400,000 lobelia seeds, and 1,700,000 begonia seeds.
What's the largest seed? The coconut.
-------------------Talk about longevity! Carbon dating of the nests and remains of
Arctic ground squirrels buried in Alaska's permafrost have turned
up lupine seeds that are 10,000 years old. (Source: "Seeds: The
Definitive Guide to Growing, History & Lore," by Peter Loewer)
--------------------
Lupine flowers in Alaska meadow
Seeds are living things. In fact, even when they're captives in jars and
envelopes, seeds carry on respiration, absorbing oxygen and giving off
carbon dioxide. The magic continues when you add water and seeds spring to
life. . .
When to germinate seeds indoors
To plan the best time to start seedlings indoors,
you need to know the frost free date, which is the
approximate date of your area's last spring frost.
This is the date you aim for as the time to
transplant your seedlings out in the garden. If you
don't know your frost free date, ask local
gardeners, your cooperative extension agent, or
inquire at a good garden center.
Now count backwards from that date the number
of weeks indicated on the timetable below to figure out the starting date for
various crops. For example, let's say your frost free date is May 1, and you
want to grow broccoli. Looking at the table below, you see that broccoli
should be started indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the frost free date. So, counting
backwards, you'll need to sow your seeds somewhere around March 1 to
March 15.
Renee's Garden seed packets
A seed starting timetable
Seed packets and seed catalogs provide valuable information, including how
and when to germinate seeds. The table below lists starting times for popular
vegetables, flowers and herbs. I've placed an asterisk(*) to indicate a coldhardy plant that can be set out 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost.
Growing vegetables
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12 to 14 weeks: onions*, leeks*, chives*, celery, globe artichoke
8 to 12 weeks: green onions*, peppers, eggplant, lettuce*
6 to 8 weeks: Swiss chard, mustard spinach*, Oriental greens*,
cucumbers, tomatoes
4 to 6 weeks: cucumbers, cabbage family crops* (cauliflower,
cabbage, broccoli, kale)
2 to 4 weeks: melon, okra, pumpkins, squash
Growing flowers
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20 weeks: fuchsia
12 to 14 weeks: pansies*, lobelia, coleus, impatiens, poppies
8 to 12 weeks: snapdragons, alyssum, petunia
6 to 8 weeks: calendula*, daisy, nemesia, ageratum and other hardy
annuals
4 to 6 weeks: African daisy, marigolds, zinnias, cockscombs, godetia,
nasturtium, bachelor button, dahlia, canary bird vine, sweet peas and
other tender annuals
Growing herbs
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12 to 14 weeks: chives, oregano, mint, yarrow, parsley
8 to 12 weeks: thyme, chamomile, feverfew, valerian, catnip

6 to 8 weeks: dill, chervil, coriander, lemon balm, sage, arugula,
savory, basil
Containers for starting seeds--save those yogurt cups
You can start seeds in almost any kind of container, provided it's 2 to 3
inches deep, with small drainage holes at the bottom. Take a look around the
house and you'll discover great seed-starting containers like yogurt cups,
cottage cheese tubs, and plastic salad trays from restaurants.
I don't recommend using egg cartons. They don't hold enough soil and they
dry out too quickly. I'm also not keen about peat pellets. When soaked in
water, these compressed wafers expand into fist-sized blocks. This might
seem convenient, but cost per seedling is pretty high. Also, the outer mesh
bag doesn't break down very well, especially in cool soils, so plants often
become root bound.
-------------------BOOK TIP: In Richard Langer's "The After Dinner Gardening
Book," he proves that any city-bound, would-be gardener with a
sense of adventure and humor can grow his own plants from
mangoes, kiwi, yams, guavas, coconuts, and more.
--------------------
Soil blockers: My favorite way to start seedlings
I enjoy starting my own seedlings, but I found it somewhat tedious. Until I
discovered soil blockers. Since 1985, my favorite way to start seedlings is in
individual cubes of soil. When grown in cubes, seedlings are much easier to
handle--you don't have to dig them out when you transplant them! Plus,
you'll save money by not having all those extra containers around.
Soil "cookie cutter" punches out 20 soil cubes at a time.
Made in England from brass and sturdy plastic, the soil cuber works like a
cookie cutter, punching out 20, 3/4-inch soil cubes at a time. Each seed or
clump of seeds gets its own growing space (cube) which eliminates
transplant shock and tangled roots. This heavy-duty tool will last you a
lifetime and it's something you can use to impress your friends! You can
purchase a soil blocker direct from my online store. Complete instructions
are included and you can read them online.
Seedlings grown in soil cubes under fluorescent lights.
Lights are kept 2 to 4 inches above tops of the seedlings.
Aluminum foil is used to reflect light.
When the seedlings are about 2 inches tall and have developed their second
set of leaves, it's time to transplant them. Seedlings grown in soil cubes are
easy to transplant. Simply pick up a cube and set it in a soil-filled container.
The cube stays intact and since each seed or seed clump gets its own cube,
the roots aren't disturbed and the plant doesn't suffer from transplant shock.
But I'm getting ahead of myself. Let's go over what to look for in a seedstarting soil.
The scoop on dirt
After collecting your containers, the next step is to fill them with soil. Buy a
good quality seed starting mix, available from any good garden center or
nursery. Seed starting mixes are blended to drain well, yet retain moisture.
Here's an important tip: Avoid using soil from the garden. If placed in small
containers, garden soil packs down and drains poorly. By using unsterilized
garden soil, you also run the risk of introducing "damping-off," a disease that
causes seedlings to rot at soil level and keel over. It's not a pretty sight. Seed
starting mixes have been sterilized. (Seeds contain enough food to nourish
themselves through the first stages of germination).
-------------------HOW TO PREVENT DAMPING-OFF DISEASE
1) Rinse your containers with a mild bleach-water solution.
2) Spray plants & soil with chamomile tea (1 tea bag/2 cups
water).
3) Keep your seedlings healthy AND disease-resistant with
PlanTea, the organic fertilizer in a tea bag. You can order it from
my website's online store.
--------------------
Moisten the planting mix before you fill your containers. Seed starting mixes
are mostly peat moss, so allow time for it to absorb water. Scoop premoistened mix into the containers to within 1/2 to 1 inch from the top, then
tap it gently to settle it in. Smooth the surface but don't pack it down.
How to sow seeds, or a pinch to grow an inch
To sow seeds, make individual holes or tiny furrows with a pencil, chopstick
or plant marker. Drop or sprinkle seeds onto the soil. Check your seed
packets for specific sowing recommendations, but here are some general
guidelines:
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Sow large seeds (nasturtiums, sweet peas) at least 1 inch apart.
Plant medium-sized seeds (lettuce, Swiss chard, marigold) 1/2 to1
inch apart.
Plant tiny seeds about 1/4 to 1/2 inch apart.
To sprinkle tiny seeds evenly, shake them from the corner of the packet or
pinch some seeds between your thumb and forefinger. When it comes to
handling small seeds, I can be all thumbs. Then I discovered the #2 pencil,
which has become my favorite seed starting tool. I think you'll be amazed,
too.
A tomato seed performs chin-ups on a pencil tip.
Pick up a sharpened, but dull-tipped pencil. Moisten the tip by touching it to
the damp soil and then pick up one, or as many seeds as you like. It's so easy,
you'll want to tell all your friends. To learn more about how a No. 2 pencil
can do extraordinary things, especially for the gardener looking for the right
tool to do the right job, read my article A Pencil is a Gardener's Best Friend.
Cover the seeds to a depth of about 3 times their thickness by sprinkling
them with dry seed starting mix. (Tip: Shake dry soil from a parmesan cheese
container). Spritz them with water and press down gently. Write a label for
each kind of seed you plant and put it in the flat or container as soon as the
seeds are planted.
Place the containers of planted seeds in a warm place where you can check
them daily. You can cover them with plastic, but be sure to keep an eye on
them. As soon as they germinate, remove the plastic.
How to raise a healthy litter of seedlings
Seedlings, like children and puppies, need constant attention. By providing
the right amount of light, heat, air, and moisture you'll have a healthy litter,
er uh, crop of seedlings that will thrive in the great outdoors. Here are some
helpful pointers:
Light
Lack of light is the single, most common problem when raising seedlings.
And it's probably the #1 reason why people become discouraged over
starting their own seeds. Seedlings need more intense light than full-grown
plants--14 to 16 hours a day is ideal. If they don't get enough light, or if the
light isn't intense enough, they become spindly, leggy and weak.
Seedlings need 14 to 16 hours of light per day
Windowsills are popular for starting seeds indoors, but they don't provide
enough of the right light for healthy seedlings. Direct sun from a southern
exposure can be too harsh, resulting in wilted plants. In northern latitudes,
light might be in short supply, or the windowsills are too cold.
I prefer low-cost fluorescent shop lights over the coslty grow lights for
raising seedlings. Suspend the lights from chains, keeping them 2 to 4 inches
above the tops of the seedlings, adjusting the lights as they grow. You can
also add aluminum foil reflectors. If you do use a sunny windowsill,
remember to rotate your plants every couple days so they don't have to
stretch and reach for the light. Seedlings that are pale and weak are lightstarved.
Moisture
Water is the highway that delivers nutrients and seedlings need a steady
supply of it. Since dry air in a house or office can draw moisture right out of
soil, check your seedlings often. Poke your finger into the soil or lift the
containers. A container with dry soil weighs noticeably less than one that's
well watered. Also, when seedlings have matured, water from the bottom to
encourage roots to "reach for it." Last but not least, nobody likes a cold
shower, so use tepid rather than cold water!
Temperature
Seedlings thrive in an average room temperature of 60 to 70 degrees during
the day and dropping by about 10 degrees at night. Cool weather plants such
as lettuce, parsley and cabbage prefer cooler temperatures after they reach 2
to 3 inches in height.
Air and Ventilation
Proper ventilation is important for a number of reasons. It helps plants
"breathe" by circulating carbon dioxide and oxygen and it prevents dampingoff disease. Moving air also keeps pests at bay and it helps strengthen plant
stems, getting them ready for outdoor breezes. If necessary, set up a fan.
Generally a small one is all you need. Finally, if your containers are covered
with plastic or other covering, remove it as soon as the seeds germinate.
Seedling showing second set of true leaves
Fertilizer (no junk food served here!)
When seedlings have developed their second set of leaves, also called their
true leaves, this is a good time to give them small doses of plant food.
Organic fertilizers such as fish and kelp emulsions, compost tea or PlanTea
are ideal. Apply fertilizers half-strength directly to the soil or as a foliar
spray.
-------------------Tickle your plants! Brush your seedlings occasionally with your
hand to strengthen your plants and get them accustomed to air
movement.
--------------------
Transplanting to larger containers
Seedlings grow faster, develop better and are less prone to disease and
bolting (prematurely going to seed) if they have plenty of space and good
soil. When seedlings reach 2 to 3 inches tall and have developed their first
set of true leaves, it's time to transplant them into larger containers. If you've
every worn a pair of shoes that were too tight, you know how a plant feels
when its roots are too crowded.
Fill the new containers with pre-moistened soil. Gently squeeze the bottom
of the seed starting container or poke a fork down to the bottom and lift the
seedling out. Try not to disturb the roots. For soil cubes, simply separate a
cube from the others. Make a hole in the new container and nestle the
seedling into its new home, pressing it down a little deeper than it was
before. For tomatoes, broccoli and other cabbage plants you can actually
bury the stem up to the bottom of the first leaves.
Gently press more soil around the seedlings and water them gently. Follow
the tips listed above, continuing to provide the right amount of light,
moisture, temperature, and air.
How to transplant seedlings outside
Before planting your seedlings out in the garden, you must prepare them for
life outdoors. Sheltered plants are not accustomed to wind, direct sun, cold
air, and see-saw temperatures. They will have a better chance of surviving if
you help them develop tougher tissues before planting them outside.
(Imagine a "couch potato" sports enthusiast from Hawaii moving to Alaska
in the winter to participate in a 1,000 mile sled dog race. You get the
picture).
In a few weeks, when the soil and weather has warmed sufficiently, it's time
to "harden off" your seedlings by gradually acclimating them to the great
outdoor. Hardening off takes about a week. On the first day, set them outside
in a shady spot, out of the wind, for a few hours. Then bring them back
inside. Gradually increase their time outside to a half day, a full day, then 2
or 3 days. Give them a sun bath occasionally, too.
When your seedlings are well acclimated, the next step is to plant them
outside in the garden. Wait for a foggy or overcast day, or plant them in the
late afternoon. Seedlings will suffer less if they're not set out during a hot,
sunny day. If you plant them while it's drizzling or just before a rain, they'll
get off to a great start.
After planting out, keep an eye on the weather. You may need to protect your
seedlings from wind, frost or heavy rain by covering them with berry
baskets, floating row covers or plastic milk jugs, minus their bottoms. Keep
the young plants moist but not soggy, until their roots take hold.
Starting your own plants from seed is not only rewarding, it's fun! What's
more, plants--like dogs and cats--don't care if you have a bad hair day! So
give your seedlings all they need to get them started out on the right foot.
But what if you make a mistake?
"That's how a gardener learns," says Anne Raver, writer. "It's not like making
a mistake with the baby that the psychotherapist will trace back directly to
you 20 years later. Plants don't point a finger. If they live, they don't cary
grudges. if they die, unless you've killed an entire species or a rain forest,
you feel only momentary guilt, which is quickly replaced by a philosophical,
smug feeling: Failure is enriching your compost pile."
Anne reminds us that experience is always in the positive, in that every
experience has something to teach us. Rather than throw in the trowel when
something doesn't go as you expected, ask yourself, "How do I use this
experience to to my advantage? What lesson is here for me?"
Successful people look at every experience as an opportunity. Jack Canfield,
co-creator of the Chicken Soup for the Soul series, says in his book, The
Success Principles, "If you take the approach that 'good' is not an accident-that everyone and everything that shows up in your life is there for a reason-and that the universe is moving you toward your ultimate destiny for
learning, growth, and achievement, you'll begin to see every event--no matter
how difficult or challenging--as a chance for enrichment and advancement in
your life."
Happy growing!
Starting Bedding Plants Indoors Can Be
Tricky
By Dennis Hinkamp
Avid gardeners going through withdrawal this time of year can often be found engrossed in seed
catalogs and mumbling about starting flower gardens indoors.
Starting gardens indoors requires a great deal of work and time, which is why most people leave
growing bedding plants to greenhouses and nurseries, says Jerry Goodspeed, Utah State
University Extension horticulturist. Still, there are many reasons one might decide to start
growing bedding plants indoors. By growing bedding plants its possible to grow varieties that
may not be grown by local growers.
He says most seeds can be started (germinated) in a warm, dark location. They need a very light
potting soil. Starter soil mixes can be purchased from the local nurseries. Some people put their
seed flats on top of a furnace or freezer. This helps warm the soil to promote good germination.
Be sure to read the seed package label in order to provide optimal germination requirements, and
never over-water the seeds. Once the seeds germinate and the plants start to appear, they will
need as much light as possible.
"Starting bedding plants indoors requires either a solarium, small greenhouse, or a room
equipped with growing lights," Goodspeed says. "Lighting is the major obstacle for most people
who are growing bedding plants because windows usually don't provide enough light to allow
for proper growth and development of bedding plants."
If a greenhouse or atrium is unavailable, he says grow lights or good flourescent lights can be
used. Keep the lights about 4 to 6 inches above the plants. They will need 16 to 18 hours of
exposure a day.
Small plants also need to be fertilized, Goodspeed says. Apply a water-soluble fertilizer during
each watering. It should be diluted to prevent excess salt build up and wasted fertilizer. Watch
the plants as they grow. Their appearance can be a signal when they are lacking fertilizer.
"Let the plants grow until their second set of true leaves begin to emerge," he explains. "If they
are getting enough light, this will occur before they are a couple of inches tall. Once the plants
have reached this size, they can be transplanted. If only a few seeds were germinated in a larger
container, they may remain in the same container and not be transplanted."
If the plants are crowded, Goodspeed suggests transplanting them into a larger container with
good drainage and enough room for the roots to grow. They can stay in this container until they
are ready to be placed outdoors. Keep supplying fertilizer and adequate water to keep the plants
healthy. The light should still be within 4 inches of the plants if it is artificial.
"These are simplified directions for growing your own bedding plants," Goodspeed says. "There
are diseases and insects to also worry about and unforeseen mistakes. Anyone interested in
raising their own bedding plants should allow at least a year to gain a little experience. Start
small and acquire the necessary skills on a few plants."
Read the seed labels and know how many weeks are required before they can be planted
outdoors in the spring. Do not start plants too early or they might take over the house, he warns.
Bedding plants grown too large in the house will not necessarily mean larger plants in the yard.
Some do not transplant well if they get too big.