THE SMART SHOOTER
James Shahan
President, Eagle Defense and Security Training.
NOTE: Make sure you read the notes on the bottom of each slide if applicable.
PURPOSE
The intent of this class is not to explain the fundamentals of shooting. You should know that by know. This slide show will
explain to you the purpose of zeroing a rifle as well as how to read and interpret your shots on a Zero target as well as how to
use your Zero target to collect data. You will also learn a strategy for shooting the ALT-C 25m rifle qual.
You will also learn about pistol shot group analysis.
This information is valuable to you as both a shooter and a range safety. I suggest you use what you learn and pass it on to a
shooter the next time you’re a line safety and keep the learning constant.
This is also intended to make you a better range safety as far as being able to read shot groups and recommend adjustments
and corrections.
POINT OF AIM
WHAT YOU’RE AIMING AT SUCH AS CENTER MASS OR THE HEAD.
POINT OF IMPACT
WHERE YOUR SHOTS ARE HITTING.
BULLET HOLES ARE ALSO CALLED “IMPACTS.”
IF YOU’RE AIMING CENTER MASS AND YOUR HITTING CENTER MASS THEN BOTH YOUR
POINT OF AIM AND POINT OF IMPACT ARE CENTER MASS.
IF YOU’RE AIMING CENTER MASS AND HITTING THE HEAD THEN YOUR POINT OF AIM
IS CENTER MASS AND YOUR POINT OF IMPACT IS THE HEAD.
MECHANICAL ZERO
PURPOSE:
Restores rifle sights back to “factory settings” by essentially erasing or
“flushing” the current adjustments on it.
ZEROING
PURPOSE:
THE PROCESS OF FINDING THE FINE TUNE ADJUSTMENTS TO FIT YOUR EYES. LIKE
GETTING A PAIR OF PRESCRIPTION LENSES.
ZEROING A RIFLE MEANS SETTING IT AIM AND IMPACT CENTER MASS AT WHAT EVER
DISTANCE IT’S SET TO.
A 700 YARD ZERO MEANS YOU CAN AIM AND HIT CENTER MASS AT 700 YARDS
BZO
PURPOSE:
Battlesight Zero. Your personal ZERO settings to get it to shoot whatever
the distance it’s set for. Typically 25/300 meters.
AKA the sum of adjustments.
MECHANICAL ZERO
Front sight: Base of front sight post must be flush front sight assembly.
Front sight POST
Base of front sight post
Front sight assembly
Think of it like this:
If a little Leprechaun were to walk across your front sight assembly, you don’t want him to fall in the front sight
post pit and get hurt! He needs you to make a level bridge so he can walk across safely.
MECHANICAL ZERO
Front sight: Base of front sight post must be flush front sight assembly.
Base of front sight is ABOVE
Base of assembly.
It’s too high!!
Waaay too high.
Front sight looks too low.
Might be a click
too high.
MECHANICAL ZERO
PURPOSE:
Back sight: Turn all the way to one side. Now turn all the way to the
other and count the clicks.
Divide clicks in half (as much as possible) and that should perfectly
center your back sight.
Sometimes around 85 clicks total and centered on 43rd.
If you have an M-16, set rear elevation to 8/3.
M-4is 6/3.
Whenever you draw your rifle for live fire, you should ALWAYS
mechanical zero your rifle and add your personal adjustments
because you never know who’s been messing with your rifle.
It could have been loaned to another unit, someone could
have dropped it in transport, or someone may just feel like
being evil and messing everyone’s sights up.
WAYS TO ZERO
WAYS TO ZERO
Standard basic training center
mass:
Point of Aim (POA): Center mass
Point of Impact (POI): Center mass
Advantage:
Point of aim IS point of impact at
25/300 meters.
Disadvantage:
Center of mass placement from
first group/shot isn’t typically the
same center of mass placement as
following since placing the front
sight on an EXACT center of mass
EACH shot is almost impossible.
F
R
O
N
T
S
I
G
H
T
Impacts/bullet holes.
Adjusted POA/POI (high):
Point of aim is HIGHER then
point of impact.
WAYS TO ZERO
POA: Shoulders.
POI: Center mass.
Advantage:
Can be easier to get a consistent
aiming point by aligning front
sight post with top of shoulders
as opposed to trying to find
center of mass each time.
Similar to lollipop sight picture.
Disadvantage:
You have to remember that your
point of aim is NOT your point of
impact when you shoot qual.
When doing this, you aim high
and adjust low so that shots are
still center mass.
You can also keep your point of aim
and impact the same and use this
to get a good grouping in the
head/neck area and then just aim
center mass for your 5 shot zero
group.
Basically, aim at the head and
adjust to the head, then just aim
center mass.
The only thing we’re really talking
about with this is changing your
reference point to get the same
result.
Adjusted POA/POI (low):
Point of aim is LOWER then
point of impact.
POA: Bottom of target.
POI: Center mass.
Advantage:
Can be easier to get a consistent
aiming point by aligning front
sight post with bottom of target.
Can be the easiest reference
point.
Disadvantage:
You have to remember that your
point of aim is NOT your point of
impact when you shoot qual.
When doing this, you aim low
and adjust high so that shots are
still center mass.
WAYS TO ZERO
Hard line zero:
POA: is hard lines of zero target
and not target silhouette.
POI: Corner of lines,
Advantage:
Since perfect center of mass is
almost impossible every time
which throws you off slightly
each shot, placing front sight on
hard intersecting lines can give
you a better point of reference
for front sight placement.
Disadvantage:
-RSO may think you’re a horrible
shot and look at you crazy.
-Will take longer to zero because
first you have to get your group
ZERO’d then you have to place 5
center mass to get off range.
WAYS TO ZERO
Getting a good ZERO is the building block for distance rifle shooting which is why I try to teach it in as much detail as I can
without going too crazy.
Stick with regular center mass zero until you start getting more experienced with your rifle.
The only thing an adjusted point of aim can give you is a slightly more precision grouping because you’re getting a more
precise, consistent reference point which is something you don’t really need out to 300 meters.
The difference is barely noticeable inside 300 meters and shooter error is going to have more of an impact then anything.
This is the minimum 5 shot
standard to be considered
properly ZERO’d.
No where in Army Rifle FM does
it state shots must be consistent
however range OIC/ policy can
implement this.
5 SHOT STANDARD
5 SHOT STANDARD?
Find the good.
Find the bad.
Although there are 4 shots in
the center and one side red
shot breaking the line, this is
not ZERO’d. Line breaks only
count for qual.
Plus side, except for the flyers
this is a good group.
5 SHOT STANDARD?
Find the good.
Find the bad.
It’s good. Notice how that red
bottom left round is
significantly inside the circle?
The top left blue shot would
not count as it barely touches
the line and is outside the
circle.
Find the good.
Find the bad.
It’s good. Is there cause for
concern with that top right
blue shot? Yes, absolutely but
for zero’ing purposes this is
fine plus take into
consideration that all other
shots are VERY tight and
almost perfectly center mass
so it could just be a fluke or
they pulled the trigger too
soon from nerves.
5 SHOT
STANDARD?
5 SHOT STANDARD?
Find the good.
Find the bad.
It’s good 
SHOT GROUP ANALYSIS
PURPOSE: DETERMINE IF WE NEED TO ADJUST THE WEAPON
OR SHOOTER.
QUESTIONS TO ASK A SHOOTER:
WHERE WERE YOU AIMING
DID YOU CHANGE AIMING POINT?
HOW DID THE SHOTS FEEL?- SOMETIMES A SHOOTER CAN TELL EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENED ON A
SHOT.
DID YOU FLUSH YOUR ZERO BEFORE YOU CAME OUT?
SHOT GROUP ANALYSIS
QUESTIONS TO ASK A YOURSELF WHEN DIAGNOSING GROUPS:
How do they usually group? Poorly? Expert?
If you’re looking at second or more group, are they still consistent with prior shots?
How extreme are the issues? Is it slight trigger squeeze or profound?
Is it the weapon or the shooter? – Weapon is characterized by consistent tight groups that just aren’t on center
mass. Shooter is characterized usually by shot group size inconsistency, or large groups or if it looks like you can
specifically identify which fundamental they need to work on.
You CAN have issues with both weapon and shooter.
NOTE: When we’re talking about “weapon” we mean the ZERO of that weapon. Typically, you make adjustments
based off the center of the group.
Always give shooters positive feedback without lying no matter what.
HEY! At least they’re all on paper!
First group
Second group
Find the good.
Find the bad.
Weapon or
shooter?
Advice?
Shot group is inconclusive.
It is most likely the shooter since at
least 2 shots are on the target and
all shots are too far apart from each
other. Adjust nothing. Shoot again
then send to PMI if results are same.
Always give positive feedback.
At least all 6 shots are on the paper!
This is usually a sight
picture/alignment issue with
anticipating recoil aka being afraid of
the recoil.
Find the good.
Find the bad.
Weapon or
shooter?
Advice?
Breathing is inconsistent. Most likely
not trigger squeeze unless it’s the
WORST trigger squeeze EVER.
Since the shots are in a close group
and not far apart it can be safe to
say the shooter has decent
fundamentals.
You COULD do one of two things:
1. Have them re-shoot.
2. Adjust 2 up, 9 right based on
center of group. Tell shooter group
is nice but we need to tweak it and
adjust.
Find the good.
Find the bad.
Weapon or
shooter?
Advice?
Group is nice.
Now we’re going to push perfection.
Trigger squeeze.
Adjust nothing.
Rifle and shooter are fine.
Shoot again.
Need 2 more shots for ZERO.
Notice one shot is perfectly center
mass. So why aren’t they giving us
the other two in that spot?
Find the good.
Find the bad.
Weapon or
shooter?
Advice?
PVT Snuffy
Group 1.
Shooter is fine, rifle needs
adjustments. 7 or 8 left, 6 down
based on center of group.
Find the good.
Find the bad.
PVT Snuffy
Group 2.
Now we’re on the money! Notice
the shot that is perfect center mass?
Weapon or
shooter?
Advice?
Adjust nothing because the shooter
can produce perfection.
Needs 2 more shots and it’s ZERO.
Find the good.
Find the bad.
Weapon or
shooter?
Advice?
PVT Snuffy
Group 3.
WTF really? Adjust nothing because
shooter just gave us perfection.
Trigger squeeze is the obvious issue
but something bigger impacted all 3
shots.
It’s most likely not the ZERO
adjustments you just made because
there’s too much of an extreme
between the last group, the
adjustments you made, and this
group.
Just have them re-shoot.
Find the good.
Find the bad.
Weapon or
shooter?
Advice?
PVT Snuffy
Group 4.
Good. Get off my range.
Something is steadily declining in the
shooter and it is most likely mental
because the blue and red groups are
amazing.
Remember, this is the smallest target
for qual and isn’t shot that often so
since all targets are bigger then this
in qual, there SHOULDN’T be an
issue with this Soldier getting a first
time qualify.
Find the good.
Find the bad.
Weapon or
shooter?
Advice?
BRO, DO YOU
EVEN MECH ZERO?
Possibly didn’t mechanical zero.
Grouping is fine so it isn’t the
shooter’s fundamentals. It’s the rifle
we need to fix.
12 up, 6 right.
A even a horrible shooter with a
proper mechanical zero shouldn’t
usually be more then 1-3 squares
away from the silhouette unless
their mech zero is crazy.
Find the good.
Find the bad.
Weapon or
shooter?
Advice?
Hard to say. Shooter DID place a
good, almost perfect center mass
shot however the other shots are so
drastically farther away but are at
least closely grouped.
Adjust nothing.
Shoot again.
Not enough shooter data on target to
really say.
Find the good.
Find the bad.
Hard to say. Shooter did place two
good, almost perfect center mass
shots however the other shot is so
drastically farther away.
Adjust nothing. Shoot again.
Weapon or
shooter?
Advice?
Not enough shooter data on target
to really say.
Usually, the one flyer is the first
shot because shooter’s remember
“OH! That’s not so bad!” and are
used to the recoil.
PISTOL SHOT GROUPS
For the most part, reading a pistol target is just like reading a zero target only the pistol fundamentals are easier to notice.
IDEAL/GOAL LEVEL SHOT GROUPS:
0-5 YARDS
5-10 YARDS
10-20 YARDS
20-25 YARDS
26-30 YARDS
10 SHOTS
2 HAND STANDING
25 METERS
FIND GOOD/BAD
ADVICE?
From 25 meters, the group itself is nice but
since they’re grouped low right, it’s safe to
assume the shooter has a problem with
anticipating recoil.
Right handed shooters will usually jerk
trigger so shots are farther left and vise
versa. Hands typically curl inwards with
trigger jerk.
This is a mind issue.
See the bit on recoil anticipation.
10 SHOTS
2 HAND STANDING
25 METERS
FIND GOOD/BAD
ADVICE?
This is what you’d like to see at 25m. This is
actually better then EXPERT level.
10 SHOTS
2 HAND STANDING
5 METERS
If we take that same group from the last
slide and shift it center mass, it looks great
except when you remember we’ve changed
the distance to 5 meters.
FIND GOOD/BAD
From 5 meters a good pistol shooter should
see shots inside the X ring.
ADVICE?
However, depending on the frequency of
how often the shooter hits the range, this
may be amazing.
At 5 meters, I would say it’s everything.
Since the shots are all over, it’s clearly a
sight picture issue. That bottom left most
shot tells me it could be an anticipation of
recoil with a right handed shooter as right
handed shooters usually jerk shots left.
Shooter needs more QUALITY PMI and dry
practice.
10 SHOTS
2 HAND STANDING
25 METERS
FIND GOOD/BAD
ADVICE?
From 25 meters, this is pretty good. Pay
attention to the two X shots and the one in
the 10 ring.
That tells us that the shooter DOES
understand the pistol shooting basics OR
they got lucky.
We’ll go with good shots. The two bottom
most shots (8 ring) can be the last two or
first two shots since they’re so far from the
rest but considering all 10 shots are in the 8
ring or closer at 25 meters, that’s pretty
great.
Have shooter take extra time and
concentrate more but this is a good group
considering most shots are in the 9 ring or
better.
10 SHOTS
2 HAND STANDING
25 METERS
Amazing group at 25 meters but the
shooter is having trigger squeeze issues
which is why the shots are drastically left.
FIND GOOD/BAD
Typically right handed shooters pull shots
to the left and left handed shooters pull
right.
ADVICE?
If we’re in a competition setting where
points matter, I’d say just aim more to
the right and then the jerked shots would
be in the X and 9.
For Army qual purposes, keep doing
what you’re doing because you’re on the
way to being an EXPERT.
10 SHOTS
2 HAND STANDING
25 METERS
FIND GOOD/BAD
ADVICE?
This is a little bit of everything. Send them
to PMI or have them do some dry firing
with emphasis on sight picture and trigger
control.
Long story short they are afraid of the
shots which is why they’re all over the
place.
Watch the shooters eyes and trigger finger
when they shoot again. Some shooters
close their eyes when they shoot and
don’t realize it.
ZERO MATH:
HOW TO MAKE AND RECORD
ADJUSTMENTS
Assuming
proper BZO and
fundamentals
are applied.
What is the
ZERO for this
shooter?
First group
Second group
Third Group
Answer: UP 3, L7 (5-8 ok). Adjust
from the center of the group.
Assuming a
proper mech
zero and
fundamentals
are applied….
IF:
1ST ADJUSTMENT- UP 3, LEFT 7.
2ND ADJUSTMENT- UP 1, RIGHT 2.
WHY IS FINAL ZERO /BZO
UP 4 AND LEFT 5?
First group
Second group
Third group
Total clicks up were 4 up.
7L-2R is 5R.
Think of ZERO math like adding
negative and positive numbers.
In a nut shell, this shooter can
now pick up any M16A2,
mechanically zero is and then
adjust 4up and 5 left and be ready
for war.
Think of it like positive
and negative numbers.
What is final ZERO for
PVT Snuffy?
Each set of adjustments is a 3 round
group.
So first they shot 3 and you made
3U/5L, then they shot another 3
and you did 2U/R1.
This is 33 shots fired
(11 groups of 3 shots.)
Up 3, left 5
Up 2, right 1
Down 7, left 6
Up 8, right 1
Down 1, left 2
Down 4, right 5
Up 1, left 1
Down, 3 left 3
Up 3, right 1
Down 2, left 2
Up 1, right 1
Already what you can be sure of is the
shooter and safety had no idea what to do
because after a while they were just chasing
shots and not seeing the need for a break and
PMI for the shooter but for training purposes
just go with it 
What the last
slide looks like
on paper….
Up 3, left 5
Up 2, right 1
Down 7, left 6
Up 8, right 1
Down 1, left 2
Down 4, right 5
Etc….
First group
Second group
Third group
Fourth group
Fifth group
Sixth group
If you see something like this, the
shooter is having some kind of
critical fundamental error or is
chasing groups or something is just
wrong.
Also line safety should have pulled
them off or had them shot with no
adjustments twice for consistency.
Up 3
Up 2
Down 7
Up 8
Down 1
Down 4
Up 1
Down 3
Up 3
Down 2
Up 1
Up 5
Up 6
Up 1
Down 5
Down 7
Down 2
Final Up/Down ZERO Adjustment is Up 1
Up 1
Up 2
Up 1
Up 1
Next time we can save all those rounds and
time just by making an adjustment of “Up 1.”
Left 5
Right 1
Left 6
Right 1
Left 2
Right 5
Left 1
Left 3
Right 1
Left 2
Right 1
4 Left
9 Left
5 Left
Final Left/Right ZERO Adjustment is 10 Left
3 Right
1 Left
All this shooter has to do is pick up a rifle, flush it back to a
mechanical ZERO and adjust 1 UP and 10 LEFT and it’s ZERO’d
to that shooter (Don’t think about how insane 10 left is, just
think ZERO math for this)
Left 4
Left 1
0
Right 1
Assuming
proper mech
zero is applied...
IF
1ST ADJUSTMENT- DOWN 3, LEFT 7.
2ND ADJUSTMENT- RESHOOT.
3RD ADJUSTMENT- DOWN 1, RIGHT 2
4TH ADJUSTMENT- RESHOOT
5TH ADJUSTMENT- ZERO.
WHAT IS FINAL ZERO?
First group
Second group
Third group
Fourth group
Fifth Group
4 Down, Left 5- Final Zero
If you make a minor adjustment by
a few clicks and when they
reshoot the group is really
extreme like the difference
between the 3rd and 4th group, just
have them reshoot because
something isn’t right. Either the 3rd
group was a fluke or the 4th is.
PVT Snuffy
Assuming
proper mech
zero is applied...
Let’s say when you see this
Shooter’s group, you have this.
You recommend 9 Right (just
go with it)
Next slide….
First group
Second group
Third group
Fourth group
Fifth Group
NOW you have the second
group (yellow). What do you
do?
In theory, 9 clicks left with
proper shooting fundamentals
SHOULD have put them center
mass BUT now we need to go
back to the RIGHT 12 clicks?
…wtf?! Something isn’t right.
If you ever see this, you can
have them shoot this again
and see if something changes
OR back track by erasing
whatever adjustments you
made and shoot again.
In this case you would go 9
clicks right which SHOULD put
the group around where the
blue one is.
This is why writing down data
on the zero target is SOOO
important.
PVT Snuffy
First group
Second group
Third group
Fourth group
Fifth Group
Using your Zero target as a
data sheet.
G1-9L/2D
G2-1D G3-N/A- ZERO
PVT Snuffy
First group
Information/data gathering is
useful in ANYTHING not just
shooting. It also lets shooter’s
keep a record of what they’ve
done with their rifle.
Second group
Third group
Fourth group
I like setting it in the top left
corner and writing it like
G1- (adjustments)
G2- N/A (if no adjustments)
After the shooter has a zero,
have them take a picture of
the target so they can keep it
for the next time they come
out.
Fifth Group
IDEAL ZERO RANGE
1. Draw weapon and mech zero.
2. Hit zero range and record adjustments. Let’s say 2D/3R is your zero.
3. Qualify.
4. Months later you go to the range with that rifle again.
5. Mech zero, add 2D/3R.
6. Confirm that 2D/3R is still your zero and hit the qual range.
7. Otherwise adjust and record new settings.
If you add 2D/3R and it’s now shooting consistently lower, all you do is
come up 1 then your NEW zero is 1D/3R.
SHOOTING FUNDAMENTALS AND OTHER
STUFF THAT HURTS/HELPS SHOTS
Trigger Squeeze
Breathing
Position/Natural point of aim/comfort/stance
Grip
Sight picture = Alignment of front sight, back sight, eyes
Anticipation of recoil
Gear
Strategy
Fatigue
Grading.
Count the hits.
(see next slide)
Grading.
Hit
Hit
Count the hits.
7 out of 10.
All they need to do is touch
the black. That’s it. 300m
target is barely grazed in
bottom left corner but it
counts for qualification.
Hit
Hit
Hit
Hit
Hit
150R- 2 hits. 50- 2 hits.Total of 4 hits out of 20.
Rifle could be ZERO’d
too low since shooter is
making tight shot groups
directly below center
mass on all targets.
Prone supported
Count the hits.
Either have them aim
higher or bring front
sight post up 2-3 and
don’t miss.
Issue?
Weapon or
shooter?
Advice?
Keep qualifying?
Hit
Hit
Shooter can STILL qualify
marksmen if they don’t
miss anymore shots
since 4+10+10=Qualified
24.
Prone
unsupported
Hit
Hit
Count the hits.
Hit
Hit
Issue?
Weapon or
shooter?
Advice?
Hit
Hit
Hit
Prone supported (blue)300x1, 200x1, 150Lx1,
150Rx2, 100Cx1, 50x3= 9
Prone unsupported- 50x1= 1.
Shooter is all over the place.
It’s NOT the ZERO or the rifle
since they shot a nice group
on the right side 150 and 50.
Shooter only has 9 graded
hits. Even if they landed all
10 in the kneeling they
would still only have 19 total
and not qualified.
Either use their remaining
rounds as training rounds
and have them shoot 3-5 at
a time in the prone at 300 or
just let them go on with the
rest of the qual course and
send them to PMI.
STRATEGY
20 rounds prone supported
RAINBOW 4
Starting with 300 lets you
shoot the smallest target with
most eye relief.
OR
Starting with 50 allows you to
get the quick points and spend
extra time on harder targets.
Easy way to remember shots:
Shoot the 50 or 300 and make
pretty rainbows from left to
right or right to left that way
you don’t put too many in one
target and not enough in
another.
RAINBOW 3
RAINBOW 2
RAINBOW 1
Strategy
10 rounds prone
unsupported
Starting with 300 lets you
shoot the smallest target with
most eye relief.
Starting with 50 allows your to
get the quick points and spend
extra time on harder targets.
Strategy
10 rounds kneeling.
Starting with 50 allows your to
get the quick points and spend
extra time on harder targets.
Extra 2 shots by not trying 150
if you’re worried you didn’t hit
100’s or 50 and you DON’T
need those 2 extra shots to
qualify.
EX: You already made
MARKSMEN but you want
SHARPSHOOTER
X
X
X
X
PMI SET UP
RIFLE/PISTOL
A big part of shooting is mind set which is why Soldier’s do so well during dry fire PMI and so
poorly with live ammo.
If PMI is being done BEFORE live fire, advise against caffeinated drinks and anything that can
cause dehydration and “jitters” especially for pistol since this will hurt your steady position.
REMEMBER:
A qualification course is a test of marksmanship fundamentals with the goal being to score the
most points possible.
Teach the course of fire and avoid talking about “combat shooting” when you’re teaching a test.
If using the 25 Meter Alt C qualification for rifles, don’t talk about point of aim/point of impact
at different distances. It’s not applicable since all shots are from 25 meters just at smaller
targets.
RANGE PMI
If you’re conducting PMI at a live fire range prior to live fire zero/qual, it should be about 30-45
minutes. Remember, everyone coming through your PMI has had SOME kind of basic weapons
training (uhh like in BASIC training) so everyone already knows how to load and operate. All you
need to go is go over the basics using drills. Don’t have a power point about steady position,
have everyone get into a steady position and make adjustments.
Telling Soldier’s about how much a rifle weighs and its effective range is irreverent on a 25
meter ALT C range because none of that will directly make someone a better shooter.
Keep the PMI relevant to whatever course of fire they’re going to shoot. If it isn’t going to help
their ability to shot, it doesn’t need to be in the PMI.
FIRST!
(If doing PMI AFTER shooter has failed to qualify) Have shooter remove all gear if
possible so they can rest/cool down while they PMI.
Go over gear placement and issues and work on fixing.
Go over strategy for qual and various positions and variations of positions.
Discussion prior to starting actual PMI/drills will allow shooter to have a longer
break.
COMFORT
Comfort is important because it helps in follow up shots and keeping a steady position over time. For the most part, show a
shooter everything and let them decide what works for them.
There IS a different between comfort and complacency.
If someone is holding a pistol in a manner that just doesn’t look right BUT they say it’s comfortable and it’s the way they’ve
always shot AND they’re doing terrible then it’s time to change and break bad habits.
If something isn’t comfortable BUT it’s producing better results on target, try and encourage a shooter to go with what’s
producing better shots.
COMMON GEAR COMPLAINTS
ACH GETS IN THE WAY OF VISION:
-Have shooter tighter the straps so it sits higher or have shooters push ACH back farther while in the prone.
EYE PRO FOGS UPS/TOO HARD TO SEE:
-Clear lenses.
-Ensure there is enough air circulation with eye pro and eye pro isn’t stuck to the face causing moisture from heat.
PRONE NOT COMFORTABLE:
-Look at body armor set up and see if any gear sticks out too far.
-Empty pockets and remove pistol and holster if allowed.
-Detach Camel Back/hydration from back of body armor.
HAVING PROBLEMS KEEPING RIFLE STEADY IN PRONE:
-Remove lights and accessories.
-Talking about using shooting block if available.
PISTOLS:
How is their holster positioned?
Is it too low? (for leg holsters)
Too far forward or backward on waist?
“The first shot is too hard!” poor trigger control.
PMI DRILLS
RIFLE/PISTOL
Can be done before or after live fire.
Set up a very small target (no more bigger then a zero target, no smaller then a quarter:
 Zero target, coin, draw a small shape or place colored tape on vehicle.
 Contrasting target colors to front sight sometimes help with sight picture. (don’t use black)
 Watch shooter up close from the side like grading push ups. If coaching on line, don’t worry
about where shots are being placed, worry about how their being fired.
 Small targets usually force shooter to take more time and concentrate.
NATURAL POINT OF AIM:
Have shooter get in prone and prepare to fire.
Shooter closes eyes, takes 3 deep, relaxed, slow breaths, opens eyes. Target shouldn’t have
moved. If target has moved, shooter needs to adjust positioning.
Dry fire prone drills.
Place a spent case on the muzzle beak and force the shooter to slow down and concentrate.
Can also be done with a pencil/pen placed in the barrel and place a dime on it.
Fire 10 consecutive dry shots.
Do this with all positions.
Forces shooter to slow down and concentrate.
If your limited on supplies, you COULD place a quarter on the front sight. It typically won’t fall
with bad trigger control but it WILL force shooter’s to concentrate which typically produces
good trigger control anyway.
TRIGGER CONTROL:
Pull and hold trigger like a functions check. While holding trigger to the rear,
shooter charges rifle and gets back into prone then releases trigger for reset. After
trigger is reset, shooter keeps finger on trigger and shoots again.
Explain trigger control is like having a piece of paper between the trigger and
trigger finger and the shooter doesn’t want that paper to fall.
FOLLOW UP SHOTS:
Teach shooter to take 2-3 shots, open and blink eyes, take a deep relaxed breath
and reengage.
TIME MANAGEMENT:
Have shooter get in positions for actual time of course of fire to familiarize better
with time management. No more then 6 seconds per shot for rifle.
RECOIL ANTICIPATION:
Focus on front sight. Put all mental attention on font sight placement while slowly pulling trigger.
Have shooters tell themselves the gun is empty. Shooters must convince themselves that they are still doing dry
fire PMI.
PISTOL TRIGGER CONTROL:
Ask who knows how to drive a manual transmission. Compare trigger control like driving a manual; shooter must
take up the dead space in the trigger before it comes to the point where the shot is ready to be fired.
Have shooters take up a two hand standing position on target and slowly pull trigger all the to the rear until it
comes to the point where the hammer is about to drop, then have them SLOWLY ride trigger forward just before
the hammer is all the way forward. This will also help with the first shot from double action.
This will also start to build hand strength.
BAD SHOOTING STANCES
Typically, the most common stance issue is shooters lean back too much because
they let the recoil dictate their body and don’t adjust.
Notice how all 3 pictures have the shooter leaning back too much.
GOOD SHOOTING STANCES
 Good, balanced foot placement.
 Good slight bend in knees.
 Arms have good extension but aren’t locked out.
 Good arm extension.
GOOD SHOOTING GRIPS
A good grip should:
1. Cover as much of both sides of the grip as
possible.
2. Comfortably rest the thumbs.
3. Balance the gun in the hands and assist in
keeping a steady platform.
A LOT of shooters
hold pistols too
low
And you see a
noticeable gap
between hand
and gun.
The picture on the
right is how a
good grip should
look.
Great article on pistol grip http://www.examiner.com/list/the-proper-grip-for-shooting-an-autoloading-pistol this is where I got the pictures.
GOOD SHOOTING GRIPS
This is one way to have the thumbs. It’s fine. Thumbs are sticking out and slightly
away from the pistol. This isn’t ideal but if it works for the shooter and it makes a
good group leave it be.
This is another way to have the thumbs. It’s fine. Thumbs are crossed.
I’ve seen a lot of shooters place their support hand index finger in front of the the trigger guard. I don’t understand this but
there’s nothing wrong with it. I will say I’ve never seen a national shooting champion shoot that way but to each their own if
it works.
BAD SHOOTING GRIPS
Yes. I have seen these on the range.
“Cup and saucer.” This is only being supported by about one and a half hands instead of two
hands.
PISTOL TRIGGER “ TOO HARD?”
THINK YOU HAVE TOO WEAK OF HANDS?
TORI NONAKA AT AGE 14 (2010)
-MULTIPLE STATE LADIES/YOUTH PISTOL SHOOTING CHAMP
-JUNIOR NATIONAL CHAMP
-USPSA NATIONAL PRODUCTION (SERVICE GUN) LADIES
CHAMP
-USPSA VIRGINIA AND MARYLAND LADIES PRODUCTION
CHAMP
15 (2011)
-MADE GLOCK SHOOTING TEAM
-USPSA VIRGINIA AND MARYLAND LADIES PRODUCTION
CHAMP
18 (2013)
YOUNGEST USPSA NATIONAL CHAMP
LESS COMPLAINING, MORE TRAINING!
TIME TO GROW UP…..
TID BITS OF KNOWLEDGE
M16A2 zeroing target squares are .96 centimeter in size.
M4 zeroing target squares are 1.3 centimeters in size.
5.56 NATO TRAJECTORY WITH A STANDARD M4 RIFLE UNDER IDEAL CONDITIONS
With a 25 Meter Zero
Bullet rise or fall at….
25 meters: 0 (level)
50 meters: +2in
100 meters: +5in
150 meters: +6in
200 meters: +7in
250 meters: +4in
300 meters: Level
350 meters: -8in
400 meters: -19in
500 yards: -43in +/-
For every 100 yards, drop rate
almost doubles.
The maximum effective range for the M4 rifle
on a point target is 500 meters/646 yards.
M855 drop during 25-meter zeroing (M4 read elevation knob handle at 6/3).
Remember-“Aim low at 200 and below.”
5.56 NATO TRAJECTORY WITH A STANDARD M4 RIFLE UNDER IDEAL CONDITIONS
25 Meter Zero
25 meters: 0 (level)
50 meters: +2in
100 meters: +5in
150 meters: +6in
200 meters: +7in
250 meters: +4in
300 meters: Level
350 meters: -8in
400 meters: -19in
500 yards: -43in +/For every 100 yards, drop rate
almost doubles.
The maximum effective range for the M4 rifle
on a point target is 500 meters/646 yards.
MOA’S
On the M4 front sight post, one click will move the bullet 1.5 inches at 100 yards, 3 inches at 200 yards,
4.5 inches at 300 yards, etc.
Formula- 1.5x yards/meters distances without zero’s. IE- 1.5MOAx3 (300 yards/meters)=4.5 inches.
BACK UP SIGHTS
Effective when firing 600 meters away
Place rear sight on 300 meter mark with M4’s and white line for M16’s.
Generally, if a man-sized target is ½ of the width of the front sightpost, the target is approximately 300 meters away.
If the target is ¼ of the width of the front sightpost, the target is approximately 600 meters away.
ACOG
The designated impact zone is 1 centimeter down from the center of mass of the 300-meter silhouette on the 25-meter
zeroing target.
The outside legs of the chevron reticle in the ACOG correspond to 19 inches (average width of a man's shoulders) at 300
meters.
The widths of the horizontal hash marks on the BDC reticles in all ACOG scopes correspond to the width of a .5 meter (19
inches) silhouette (man-size) at that range.
Good reference point
ZEROING ACOG
At 25 meters, 16 clicks move the bullet 1 inch (two M4 zero target squares) or 8 clicks per square on M4 zero target.
To ensure a consistent zero, tap the scope with the palm of your hand to stabilize the adjustment mechanism after an
adjustment has been made, and then fire a three-shot group on the target.
For 25 meters, use the tip of the 300-meter post as POA/POI.
ZEROING ACOG
Impacts
10 mil
Mil’s and MOA are like yards and meters
1 mil = 3.438 moa
or .29 mil = 1 moa
10 mil
34.38 MOA
WTF DOES THAT MEAN!?
If you’re aiming at 100 meters and your shots (yellow dots) are hitting where the first line is, you need to click roughly 34 clicks
left.
CCO
Designed for the two eyes open method of sighting. The dot follows the horizontal and vertical movement of the firer’s eye,
while remaining fixed on the target.
No centering or focusing is required.
Mount the CCO to the front of the receiver rail or to the top ARS, as preferred.
ZEROING CCO
(1) Starting from center of mass the 25-meter zeroing target, count down 1½ squares or 1.4 centimeters.
This is now the point of impact when zeroing the M68 CCO.
(2) Continue to aim at the center of mass and make adjustments to the M68 CCO so that the rounds impact in the secondary 4x4centimeter circular box, 1½ squares or 1.4 centimeters down from the point of aim.
For windage and elevation, two clicks equal 1 centimeter (roughly 1 M4 zero target square) at 25 meters.
WHAT DISTANCES DO OTHER FACTORS MATTER? (ABOUT 200+ YARDS)
After about 100 yards you will need more then good shooting fundamentals to achieve the most accurate shots possible.
Rifle shooting fundamentals are just the, fundamentals. They are the building blocks of shooting.
STANDARD M-4 ROUND
M855 cartridge –
5.56-mm, ball
Green tip
The M855 cartridge
is used in the
M16A2/3/4 and in
M4-series weapons.
The M855 cartridge has a 62-GRAIN,
gilded metal-jacketed, lead alloy core
bullet with a steel penetrator.
The primer and case are waterproof.
This round is also linked and used in
the M249.
NOTE: This ammunition should not
be used in the M16A1 except under
emergency conditions, and only at
targets less than 90 meters away.
The twist of the M16A1 rifling is not
sufficient to stabilize the length of the
round's projectile.
HOLD’S VS ADJUSTMENTS
HOLD: Kentucky windage. You adjust your physical point of aim to achieve center mass shots. IE Aiming at the head to impact
center mass.
ADJUSTMENTS: Modifying your ZERO/back sight/front sight to account for distance and wind. Point of aim is STILL center mass.
Hold’s are used when there is not enough time to make adjustments or when the shooter doesn’t know how to calculate
adjustments.
EX- At 400 yards, you forget how many clicks you need to make to still aim center mass so you just aim at the top of the head.
WIND
 The clock system is used to indicate wind direction and value.
 Winds that blow from the left (9 o’clock) or right (3 o’clock) are called FULL VALUE winds because they have the most
effect on the bullet.
 Winds that blow from an oblique (1-2, 4-5, 7-8, 10-11 o’clock) are called HALF VALUE winds as they have half the effect of
a full value wind.
 Winds that blow from 12 o’clock or 6 o’clock are referred to as NO VALUE winds as they have virtually no effect on the
flight of the bullet.
WIND FORMULA
(1) Windage. To compute the distance one click of windage moves the strike of the bullet at a range of 300 meters, divide 300 meters by 25
meters and multiply by .33 centimeters.
D = 300m ÷ 25m = 12, 12 x .33 = 3.96 centimeters (round this up to 4.0).
One click of windage moves the strike of the bullet 4 centimeters at 300 meters.
ACOG
WIND FORMULA
WHY 100 YARD ZERO?
Many distance shooters use the 100 yard zero as a baseline for distance shooting. The 25/300m ZERO isn’t better then the 100
yard, it’s just a different way to achieve the same result.
EFFECTS OF TEMPERATURE/COLD VS HOT BORE
If you zero your rifle at 8am and it’s 50/60 degrees outside and you either shoot all day and/or wait until the afternoon where
it’s 80/90+ degrees outside, the metal that makes up your barrel has heated and softened and the zero you had in the
morning is not going to impact the same way as when your barrel is hot.
This doesn’t become a factor until you start shooting 1000 yards or 500+ yards and are shooting for basically absolute
precision.
DATA COLLECTION
Data collection is important because if you shoot all day on day one, and when you go to shoot on day 5 the
environmental/atmospheric conditions are completely different, you can look at your data sheet to see when was the last
time you fired under the same or similar conditions as day 5 and get a better understanding of what to expect.
Let’s say you’re shooting a distance rifle competition in Alaska in December. When you zero your rifle at 300 meters (not 25),
it’s 10* outside and your competition is out to 400 meters. You write down your temperature and wind.
A month later you shoot that same competition in New Mexico in July. Is it safe to safe that if you use the Alaska data in New
Mexico, you won’t have the same exact precise data or impacts?
Remember, for this rifle competition you want all your shots as close to the X ring as possible to precision is crazy important.
CHEAT SHEET AKA DATA ON PERSONAL EQUIPMENT (DOPE) CARD
Dope cards are small yet important notes that are kept on the rifle such as
your zero at certain distances or bullet drop or both.
It’s a cheat sheet for your data to help you remember and adjust on the fly.
GOOD INFO TO KNOW
ELEVATION BUI SIGHTS- 300 FOR M4, WHITE LINE FOR M16
M4 CARRY HANDLE ELEVATION KNOB SETTING- 6/3
M4 FRONT SIGHT MOA- 1.5
M4 ELEVATION KNOB MOA- .75
M4 WINDAGE KNOB MOA- .75
M16A2 CARRY HANDLE ELEVATION KNOB SETTING- 8/3
M16A2 FRONT SIGHT MOA- 1.25
M16A2 ELEVATION KNOB MOA- 1
M16A2 WINDAGE KNOB MOA- .5
1 MOA IS 1 CLICK AT 100 YARDS.
1.5MOAX3 (300 YARDS/METERS)=MOVES IMPACT 4.5 INCHES.