Running head: HIGH HEELS
1
Evolution Of A Classic: High Heels
Sofia Berger
Cawthra Park Secondary School
Origins of the High-Heeled Shoe
Dating back to 3500 BC, murals had been created of aristocracy wearing high platform
shoes. Although the distinct inventor of the high-heeled shoe is not recorded, it is known that
they play innumerable roles throughout history (Anderson, 2014). Some say that Egypt was
responsible for the start of such a trend, using the high heel to distinguish the wealthy. In a more
practical application, “shoes with extended heels were also worn by butchers who wished to keep
their feet out of reach of the blood of the animals they slaughtered.” Ancient Greece and Rome
are both notorious for following the same process that the Egyptians had- wearing heels as a
form of hierarchy. Were avidly used in the Medieval Times; are covered in pattens to protect
them from harsh walking conditions (“In Ancient Egypt”, 2008).
“Christian Louboutin shoes were famously inspired by a French royal and notable
trendsetter of the high heel, King Louis XIV of France. He passed a law ensuring only
members of his court could wear the red-soled heels he sported, making it easier for 17th
century society people to recognize who was privileged and in favour with the King, and
who was not–“ (“The History of High Heels”, 2013).
The sixteenth century took what appeared to be a modern twist on the high heel “when
Catherine de Medici decided to wear heels on her wedding day to Henry II, a Duke and the
future King of France. She was 14 and quite short (not more than 5 foot), so asked a cobbler to
make her shoes that would make her appear much taller on her wedding day” (“The History of”,
2010).
The high heel eased away from being something that mainly men would wear, and
became unisex attire. They slowly become more modern, fashionable, and artistic. To further the
artistic potential of the high heel, the sewing machine came into play. This allowed for more
designs, colours, and overall styles to be made (“The History of High Heels”, 2013). As time
went on, it became imperative to boost the height of the heel in order to make the leg seem more
refined and sexually desirable. (“In Ancient Egypt”, 2008).
Nearing the Victorian Era, the instep arch was introduced, in order to make women feel
more feminine. Although invalid, the 5-inch heels were advertised for their health benefits. This
resulted in high heels becoming a household item for many women.
“The 18th Century also saw heels becoming very controversial in America. The
Massachusetts Colony banned women wearing them, saying that women used them to
trap men, and anyone seen wearing them would be prosecuted as witches. The English
Parliament also used this logic and treated women wearing heels as witches. Many
critics at the time compared the high heel to the cloven hoof of the devil” (“Longer legs,
sex appeal”, 2014).
Throughout the 30’s and 40’s, they became much more moderate in height. It was not
until the late 50’s that stilettos were created. Feminists became enraged by the attention that
women received from wearing these shoes. Many protests were created against high heels at this
time period (Kremer, 2013).
Visual Alterations Through Time
Starting with Egyptian heels; with a variety of platform roman sandals made of cork/
wood, the high heel began to develop. The Middle Ages allowed for high wooden soles (pattens)
in order to keep feet away from the dirty streets. Around 1154, King Henry II wore pointed
shoes, with silk lining (and wood) to hide his deformed toes. Knights began wearing curved
pointed shoes for horse back riding- they kept their feet in the stirrups. In 1215, several kings and
princes began wearing the heels up to 30 inches in length. 1533 was the year that modern high
heels were created. They were initially of Italian origin, but made its way to the French court.
Softer materials such as leather were introduced. Wood still remained a consistent material for
the creation of the heels. Thread, cloth and leather allowed for a sturdy hold on shoes that were
used for everyday purposes. More colours became available- the larger variety was open to those
with more money, as dyes has been hand-made. After the French Revolution, a maximum of
two-inch heels were allowed. The following styles were created from the 1800’s-1930: knockon, stacked, spring, and the re-introduced Louis heel. The 1860’s allowed for more patterns and
designs to become available, with the creation of the sewing machine. Throughout the Great
Depression, heels became shorter and wider in order to ensure maximum comfort. Roger Vivier
invented the sky-high, ultra-slim stiletto heel in the 1950’s, followed by low stiletto boots.
Materials like fake leather and plastic allowed for many designs to be sold at a much cheaper
price than ever before. Throughout the disco era, chunky platforms became popular (1970’s).
Skyscraper stiletto heels were created in the 1980’s by Manolo Blahnik. Red bottomed high
heels were introduced in the 1990’s, right before heelless high heels (invented by Blahnik in
2006). Pumps and peep-toes soon came into the picture (“The History of High Heels”, 2013).
Materials/Material Change
As previously mentioned, heels were first made of materials such as cork, wood and dyed
leather. The French Revolution caused buckles and rosettes to be replaced by ribbon or cord ties.
Over time, have expanded to real/fake leather, plastic, silks, and other abstract materials. In
today’s society, high heels act as a statement; are created out of a vast variety of materials such
as: metals, lace, reusable materials, etc.
“Raw materials for the manufacture of high heels include plastic, leather, wood, fabric,
animal hides, paper (for patterns and labels), and various cements and glues, depending
on the component materials. Nails, screw nails, and tacks are used to hold fabric or
leather in place and to attach heels to the shank of the shoe. Fabric and feathers, tree
branches and sequins, faux pearls, and genuine diamonds have all been used to decorate
high heels” (“The Well Healed”, 2006.).
Manufacturing Over Time
Initial manufacturing would have been completed by hand. Over time, sewing machines
allowed for people to make their own shoes/ more designs became available. Once industries
were on the rise, many heels were created in factories- both automatically and with the assistance
of people. Even now, some individuals prefer taking part in artistic endeavors by creating
original pieces by hand (“The History of High Heels”, 2013).
Intended Consumer over Time
Originally, high-heeled shoes had been intended for men. Primarily, they were used when
butchering, for rough terrain, when on horseback, and to prove that they are of a high social
status. Over time, they became predominant in women’s fashion as well, once royal women
began wearing them. Famous designers began creating fashionable shoes with higher heels, to
increase sex appeal. To this date, high heels have been transformed into forms of art, coming in
an array of contemporary designs. This reversed the consumer market and now results in females
being the intended consumer throughout time (“Longer legs, sex appeal”, 2014).
Popularity of Product
The popularity of the product has remained relatively consistent over the past few
decades. It was not until the French and English royalty that heels truly gained an audience. The
Great Depression caused a minor escalation, as money and materials were at an all-time low.
Aside from this, heels have remained at a constant rate of popularity. The only difference is that
their designs were constantly modified to fit the era they were presented in (“From Manly to”,
2013).
Factors influencing Evolution of Heels
The use of computer-aided design and precise machines such as lasers has greatly limited
the waste from shoe production. The waste that does result must be disposed and may contain
synthetic adhesives and other materials that prevent recycling. Plastic waste can be remolded.
The introduction of the sewing machine allowed for quicker build, and a larger variety in design.
Growing industrial factories allowed for manufactured shoes to be created. This is a much faster
and cheaper alternative to hand-made heels. In terms of the gender evolution of the heel- they
had be originally entailed for men, but through the thousands of years that that surfaced, they
were adopted by females. Now, they are predominantly worn by women around the globe. Media
does an excellent job of advertising the sexual appeal linked to wearing such shoes, and act as a
major influence on the buyers market. Technology advancements have allowed for more support,
orthopedic souls, and a larger variety in design and shape (“From Manly to”, 2013).
3 Places to Purchase Heels & the Prices
From my trips to the mall, I have found endless opportunities to purchase heels for just about any
price, as just about any clothing/shoe store. For a mid-class consumer, Aldo has a variety of heel
designs for $80, not including tax. More expensive designer brands may include Louis Vuittonwhich have models at approximately $750. Cheaper heels stand at around $30-40, at Walmart or
Marshalls. Unique alternatives may include thrift shopping, or creating your own designs either
online, or at a specified location. Shoes with orthopedics tend to be more expensive than those
that are not.
Reference List
Anderson, K. (2014, September 16). From Aphrodite to Louboutin: Talking High-Heel History
With the Curator of “Killer Heels”. Retrieved September 29, 2014, from
http://www.style.com/trends/fashion/2014/killer-heels-exhibit-brooklyn-museum
Exploring the history of high heels. (2014, September 10). Retrieved October 1, 2014, from
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/fashion-and-beauty/fashion/exploring-the-history-of-highheels/article20517216/
High Heel Shoes as a Symbol of Class, Gender and Sexuality. (n.d.). Retrieved September 29,
2014, from http://www.articlesonhistory.com/high-heel-shoes.php
Kremer, W. (2013, January 24). Why did men stop wearing high heels? Retrieved September 29,
2014, from http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-21151350
The History of High Heels. (2010, April 10). Retrieved October 1, 2014, from
http://fashion.lovelyish.com/2010/04/10/the-history-of-high-heels/
The Well Healed. (2006). Retrieved October 1, 2014, from
http://www.allaboutshoes.ca/en/heights_of_fashion/east_meets_west/index.php
Wade, L. (2013, February 4). From Manly to Sexy: The History of the High Heel. Retrieved
October 1, 2014, from http://www.huffingtonpost.com/lisa-wade/high-heelhistory_b_2613029.html