UYBC Coxing Pack
The coxswain (or cox) is the crew member who is responsible for the safety of the crew,
they steer the boat and give commands to the rowers. The cox is a coach in the boat, able to
pick up aspects of technique and provide instant feedback, improving efficiency and
maximising boat speed. They are also responsible for motivating the crew during both
training pieces and races, and are therefore an integral part of the crew.
Types of Boat
Sculling – 2 Oars per Rower
1x
2x
4x
4 x+
8 x+
Scull or Single
Double
Coxless Quad
Coxed Quad
Octuple
1 Rowers
2 Rowers
4 Rowers
4 Rowers, 1 Cox
8 Rowers, 1 Cox
Sweep Boats – 2 Oars per Rower
2+
2+
44+
8+
Coxless Pair or Pair
Coxed Pair
Coxless Four
Coxed Four
Eight
2 Rowers
2 Rowers, 1 Cox
4 Rowers
4 Rowers, 1 Cox
8 Rowers, 1 Cox
The two positions a cox takes in a boat is shown below…
Positions in the Boat
This is a key learning point as when you are addressing your crew you may call them by
where they are sat in the boat, and which side of the boat they are on.
Steering
One of the main responsibilities of the coxswain is to steer the boat. This is done using a
rudder underneath the boat at the stern, which is moved to the left and right to manoeuvre
the boat as required. Steering is done using cables which are attached to the rudder behind
the coxes seat and pass across the boat in front of the cox to form a rectangle. The cox
pushes their hand forwards on the side to which they want to steer i.e. to go right you push
your right hand forwards.
- You should steer little and often, if you put the rudder fully on it can upset the balance of
the boat, you are much better putting the rudder on half as much and keeping it there for a
few strokes, as the boat takes about 2 or 3 strokes to respond to your steering. Aim for
something static ahead e.g. a tree on the bank, over a few strokes and then once you can
see the bows have turned towards it straighten the rudder and maintain that course for a
while until you need to aim for something different further ahead.
- It can be quite hard to see past your rowers, try not to lean out of the boat as it upsets the
balance. The best thing to do is to keep looking ahead so that you can plan for what
movements you need to make in plenty of time, gradual movements are much easier than
sudden directional changes. You can also steer slightly to the left and right of your straight
course to check you are happy there is nothing straight ahead of you in your blind spot.
Don’t forget to look behind you every so often too; your stroke is responsible for warning
you of things that might be coming up behind you.
-On tight bends, where you need to turn the boat more quickly, you can use pressure
steering. This is when you ask one side of the boat for a firmer pressure and the other side
for lighter pressure. “Firmer pressure from bow side, lighter pressure from stroke side”. This
will make the boat turn much quicker. Make sure you only use this when you really need too
and make a call when you want it to return to equal pressure.
Outing Checklist
There are a number of items a cox should bring to every outing including:
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Life Jacket a Life Jacket MUST be worn every time you go out in a boat, these are kept in
the boat house, we have both gas life jackets (toggle activated) and foam buoyancy aids
(naturally buoyant) for use.
Clothing lots of layers, thermal base layers are a great way to trap heat by the body
followed by tighter fitting sports trousers and tops, micro fleece tops are light weight
and warm even if they get a bit wet. Then some kind of waterproof or windproof outer
layer is a good idea on top.
Shoes depending upon the river level wellies may be required to get in and out of the
boat. A pair of warm socks can be helpful to keep your feet warm.
Hat an important way to help your body maintain a constant temperature, in the winter
a warm hat or when it is sunny a baseball cap is a good way to keep you cool and also
keep the sun out of your eyes! Also consider sun cream.
Sunglasses are an essential piece of kit even during the winter as the low sun can create
glare. Reflections on the water make it very difficult to see clearly which is important in
your role as a cox.
Gloves cold fingers do not make coxing fun, invest in a really good warm pair such as
skiing gloves or mittens.
The Basics
There are a number of key commands to know in relation to manoeuvring the boat:
“Easy There” = Stop rowing, blades feathered and off the water.
“Take the Run Off” = turn the blades so they are quarter turned brushing the surface of the
water, helps to slow the boat down.
“Hold it Up” = Emergency Stop in a boat! Blades are placed in the water square whilst the
boat is moving to help slow the boat down quickly, generally due to an obstacle or another
boat ahead you might hit.
“Back it Down” = Blade spoon is turned back to front in the water, the blade is placed in
against the rowers chest at back stops and then they push the handle to the stern of the
boat. Essentially this is rowing backwards.
“Rowing On” = Normal rowing strokes.
“Tap” = Arms and Bodies only rowing stroke.
The boat is turned around by opposite sides rowing on and backing down. The side that
backs down is the way you want to turn e.g. to turn clockwise “Bow Side Backing Down,
Stroke Side Rowing On, Bow Side First, Go”. The two sides should take alternate strokes.
When a side isn’t taking strokes they should be sat with their blades feathered on the
surface of the water and can be moving with their blades in this position to be ready to take
their next stroke as the other side finishes theirs to make the process much quicker.
On an outing
Instruct the crew to get the correct blades out.
Land Warm Up
Run to the end of the track and back. Stretch (Dynamic if possible).
Getting the boat into the water
The following instructions are what you should use to get the boat out of the boathouse. It
is important that you are watching what is happening very carefully as it can be very easy to
damage the boat due to lack of concentration. Make sure you are strict with your crew and
insure that they concentrate and watch what they are doing the whole time.
Stand in positions next to the boat
-Pull the racks out
-Everyone in and “Hands on”
-“Lifting on 3. 1,2,3” - Get boat of the rack -“To waists on 3. 1,2,3.”
-Walk the boat out of the boathouse and as going down the ramp “Take it to shoulders...
go.”
-Once clear of the boathouse ramp - “Turn to face the boathouse and walk it down” -Walk
the boat down towards the water and slowly down the ramp and get level with the first
step.
-“Lifting to heads on 3. 1,2,3.”
-Count as they go down the steps
-Get parallel to the water.
-Then to place the boat in the water... Controlled and away from the steps. Watch the fin
and the rudder. “Roll it down on 3. 1,2,3. Slowly place it in.”
- Bow side hold onto the boat and stroke side get blades.
- “Put all blades in, make sure gates are closed”
- “Bow side holding, stroke side in”
- Cox gets into seat, plugs in cox box and make sure has everything required for the
outing.
- “Stroke side holding on to bowsides blades.” “
- “Bowside in. Pushing off on 3. 1,2,3.”
- Stroke side scratching off. Pass blades back when clear”
- Get over to the right hand side of the river
- Instruct the crew to number off from bow when they are ready
Warm Up
Warm ups tend to be done in pairs in a four, and fours in an eight. The other rowers sit the
boat using their blade as stabilisers flat on the water. You will hear instructions such as
“Bow pair sitting the boat, stroke pair from backstops, square blades, arms only, are you
ready, Go”. The stroke is gradually lengthened as follows: - Arms Only (legs straight, small
circles with the arms only, Square Blades).
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Arms rowing only.
Arms and Bodies (legs straight, circles with the arms but rocking from the hips using the
body to lengthen the stroke, should come forwards to the 11 o’clock position and
backwards to the 1 o’clock position, Square Blades).
¼ Slide (break the knees, then drive them down and rock back to 1 o’clock position,
Square Blades).
½ Slide (move a little further up the slide, straighten the legs, then as above, Square
Blades).
¾ Slide (move up the slide so heels are still on the footplate then straight legs and follow
as above, Square Blades).
Full Slide (heels lift of the footplate as the shin become vertical, blade should be parallel
to the front stay of the rigger at the point it enters the water, Square Blades).
Full Slide (as previous but feather the blades with the inside hand on the recovery,
Feathered Blades).
Easy there, take the run off and swap over to the other part of the crew.
Once the other part of the crew is warmed up, get the whole crew to row together up to
Lowther. Easy there, and allow the crew to delayer and have a drink before setting off on
the rest of the outing.
It is important that you allow your crew to have a rest and drink at numerous points during
an outing, specifically when it is very hot.
Landing
-“Easy there” a couple of lengths before the boathouse. -“2 and 4 rowing on gently. Go.”
-“Bowside lift your blades”
-Cox gets out when they can.
-Bowside out.
Bowside holding and stroke side out.
-Bowside remove the blades, followed by strokeside.
-Blades placed away.
-“Hands on”
-“Lifting to waists on 3. 1,2,3.”
-“Swing to heads on 3. 1,2,3.”
“Step up the steps”
-When on the flat - “Split to shoulders. Go.”
-Walk the boat up the ramp.
-Cox get tressels out of the boathouse
-Get crew to stand next to the tressels with the boat.
-“To waists. Go. And place it slowly down. Watch the riggers.” -1⁄2 crew wash. 1⁄2 put away
blades
Good Technique
The stroke is broken down into sections, detailing what the rowers should be doing /
thinking about at that point.
As your coxing abilities improve and general knowledge about rowing increases, you should
be able to get into any boat and help make it go faster. As good cox is a real asset as you are
able to act as a coach in the boat, as you are able to feel things that the coach can’t because
they aren’t in the boat.
As you develop your own coxing technique keep developing your repertoire of phrases and
keep trying new things with the crews you go out with as the same phrase may not
necessarily work for two different crews.
Make sure to ask for feedback from them about what they like you saying and what they
don’t like so you can remember to do or not do that again next time! They all get
continuous feedback on their technique so it is only fair that you get feedback too.
Tips for coxing on the Ouse
The general rule when coxing is always to stay on the RIGHT hand side of the river at all
points. However, this may differ when racing, dependant on the stream and direction of the
race.
The River Ouse is very prone to flooding and so it is important that you keep yourself
updated on the river levels. The river has to be below 1.5m for us to row, any higher and the
stream becomes too quick. After flooding, there can be a lot of debris in the river, which can
make it unsafe. If you do not feel confident that the conditions are okay to do an outing, it is
your job to make the decision to whether or not the outing will go ahead.
This is the website we use to check river levels - http://www.environmentagency.gov.uk/homeandleisure/floods/riverlevels/120701.aspx?stationId=8208
Another point to remember is that when approaching a bridge and you spot another crew
coming the other way, it is the crew traveling downstream who has priority going through
the bridge.
There are a number of bridges along the Ouse and it is a good idea to study the river on
Google maps, so you can be aware of exactly where they are. Normally, the rule for bridges
is that you go through the right hand side but in York there are a few exceptions.
At Skeldergate Bridge you pass through the middle arch, no matter which direction you are
going. However, when passing through try to keep on the RIGHT hand side.
When going through Ouse Bridge, which is just by Lowther, you must always pass through
the middle arch. Make sure to watch out for other crews and the Red Boats at this point.
Always pass through Lendal Bridge on the right hand side. Be aware for York City Crews, as
this is where there Boat House is, and there are lots of
Always pass Scarborough Bridge through the right.
Clifton Bend bridge is the most tricky of all on the Ouse, due to its sharp corner. When
passing through this bridge you must always go through the middle arch when heading
upstream and the one on the right when you are going downstream. This can be tricky as its
is very bendy round this bit. Be confident, though, use your steering and if you feel that you
need more manoeuvring, use pressure steering.
Technical Drills
Problem
Possible causes
Catches not
together
Hands slow to lift handle start raising the hands
and place blade so
gently as the handle goes
catches are late;
from the knees towards the
ankles;
slide in the recovery too
fast so catches are early; let the weight of the blade
failure to anticipate the drop into the water;
catch;
place the blade quickly into
bad balance, so that one the water;
side dips before the
slow down the slide speed;
catch making it harder
timing together and
for the other side to
anticipate the catch;
drop their blades in
level hands with the person
in front
Eyes closed so they have to
listen and anticipate;
Recovery is too fast so
crew pause and wait for
the catch;
Inside arm only so they can
feel the weight of the blade
and do not rotate and dip the
outside shoulder (can have
outside arm loose grip/off the
blade/ as if it was karate
chopping the blade so there is
Pausing at the
catch (blade
hanging in the
air for too long
when it should
be in the
stroke rushing as
worried people are
waiting for them;
Calls to correct
Slow down the slideimagine that you are sliding
uphill; slow down the last ¼
of the slide but make the
hands quicker here;
sharpen up the catches by
Exercises
Slap catches to force them to
raise their hands;
Roll ups to anticipate catch
timing;
drop the blade into the water
(take both hands off) then
catch it again during the drive
to show that the drop can
actually be quicker than when
the blade is placed;
catch taps
water)
hands slow to place
blade in water;
placing the blade more
quickly into the water, or by
thinking about placing the
hands too low so that
catch at ¾ slide-catch on
blade is too high and has
the turn ie just before you
further to drop;
change direction;
overcompression of the
raise the hands up to the
legs, or leaning too
catch so the blade moves
much with the body
down to the water;
which wastes time
make sure shins are vertical;
more stability);
making them slow the slide as
much as possible then cut into
the water with the blade;
catch taps to work on catch
speed into the water (focus on
not moving the shoulders);
can put straws at the correct
handle height at the catch
square over the knees to
make sure the blade is
ready to go in at the catch
Legs driving
before catch is
in the waterrowing the
blade in so it
drops
diagonally/
missing water
at the catch
Bumshoving (seat
moving back faster than
shoulders in the drive);
not feeling the
connection in the water;
rushing the slide and
hitting frontstops so
they bump backwards
before the hands have
time to place the blade;
Feel for the connection
before you drive;
don’t let the seat move back
faster than shouldersmaintain the catch angle,
keep back straight, sit tall
and don’t slouch;
brace abs and body for
suspension at the catch;
quick placement of the
not getting the catch in
blade into the waterquick enough due to
sharpen up, create a bit of
slow hands, extra body
backsplash
lean, dipping the outside
shoulder
Leg drive not
feeling
together/stroke
not feeling
powerful
Pressure from the legs
coming onto the blade
at different points of the
stroke-slow connection;
pressure not building up
from the catch;
people rowing slightly
differently from each
other;
bodies opening out too
Call for power with the legs;
imagine that you are doing
a squat or a high pull where
you spring up in a fast,
powerful movement, so
both feet push off the
footplate; bodies braced for
the catch and quick leg
drive-legs going down as
soon as the blade is in,
together with the person in
Introduce a pause for a beat
when the blade is in the water
before the legs drive back;
connection exercises like
backing down with blade
orientated as it is for normal
rowing, then quickly changing
direction once at frontstops;
2” drill-catch taps leading to
taking the first 2” of the drive,
then 6” etc to maintain body
angle and suspension;
work on fast catch placement,
backsplash
Legs only, moving to legs and
bodies, then bring in the arms,
then go to firm pressure for a
20 stroke burst;
ghost pressure rowing with
firm pressure
catches/middle/finishes/ light
catch firm middle and finish;
power strokes in pairs-2
people trying to move the rest
quickly and at different
times;
people trying to pull the
blade towards them
rather than push the
feet off the footplate;
lack of connection with
the footplate and
suspension during the
whole of the drive
Boat twisting
during stroke,
bad balance
during the
drive; lack of
fluidity
Pressure coming onto
the blade at different
points of the stroke,
pressure applied in
varying amounts
blades too deep or too
shallow in the water;
pulling with the inside
arm;
transitions between
phases not smooth;
blade not travelling at
its natural height
through the water;
blade angles are not
matching all the way
through the stroke (can
also be due to feet set
up-catch/finish angle
front;
of the boat for 10/20 strokes;
should be able to see from
the side that all knees go
down together, and all seats
go backwards with the one
in front;
suspension in pairs/fours
where you stand up off the
footplate-aiming to come off
the seat;
Watch the person in front;
make sure drive pressure
builds up from the catch all
the way through the stroke;
Ghost rowing releasing the
blade during the drive so that
it travels through the water at
the correct height;
no wrenching the blade
handle towards you;
when rowing in fours or pairs
making sure that all the
elements are fluid and
smooth;
emphasise role of outside
watch for the person in
hand during drive by rowing
front’s shoulder and outside with loose inside hand during
arm to come back, follow
drive;
their body lean maintain
intervals makes crew more
catch angle until leg drive
responsive, 10 on, 10 off, 9
has nearly run out, then
on, 9 off etc
swing back and bring arms
in-legs, body, arms;
optimising stroke length at
catch and finish-at the catch
weight should only return
by pushing inside shoulder
to seat at the end of the
backwards, at the finish by
stroke so lift bums off seats,
making body parallel to the
suspend off the catch;
blade, outside shoulder back,
lift the bows out of the
back straight, sitting tall
water
watch blade depth at the
catch and during the drive;
make a rectangle so that
hands are level during the
drive-not rowing as if over a
barrel-shoulders level and
loose not raising up outside
shoulder at the finish
(shoulders in line, even if
angled towards pin slightly);
drill- rowing at ¼. ½, ¾ slide;
pressure exercises eg firm
middle of drive, legs only;
rowing smoothly;
outside arm only with inside
hand off totally, or just off in
the drive-can alternate hands
so wave with inside hand
during drive, switch and wave
with outside during recovery;
focus on the outside hand
set feet up so that all angles
being
deeper/shallower);
on the handle pivoting
round the rigger;
pushing unevenly with
the feet-affects balance
particularly in smaller
boats
hold the shoulders forward
for longer (ie don’t open the
body up too soon);
match at the catch/finishcatch angle should be hands
just beyond frontstay
sit up straight, as if being
pulled upwards by string;
using the outside arm as a
lever-like the body it is just
a conduit for the leg drive,
and hand as a hook around
the end of handle with wrist
flat (still grips though);
keep blades parallel with
stern pair
Finishes not
together
Blade stuck in the water
the finish (can be due to
technique eg hitting
body and also if rigger
height is too low-or
crew is too heavy for
boat);
release of blade from
the water at different
times and tap down not
together;
loss of suspension and
tension on the blade too
early;
washing out by not
sitting up and making
sure the blade comes in
at its natural height (ie
pulling in to the lap
instead);
washing out can be
caused by riggers being
set too high, or crew
being too light for the
Release the blade from the
water before handle hits
the body;
make a C shape round the
finish;
tap down and hands away
together;
make a vertical movement
with the outside hand to
release the blade from the
water;
circle the hands;
listen to the finishes-one
sound
Swiss paddling so pausing at
the finishes with the blades
slightly feathered on the
water;
finish taps to make sure the
blade is not too high off the
water at the finish, the rower
knows where the finish height
should be, and the timing is
together;
working on the body position
at the finish-feet out so that
they cannot lean back too farmakes them sit up and they
shouldn’t be able to wrench as
force will send them
backwards;
working on the suspension all
the way through the stroke
with the weight only returning
to the seat at the end of the
stroke;
making sure sequence of drive
is correct legs, body as power
boat;
from legs begins to run out,
arms rather than body swing
backwards being early
body positions being
different;
missing water at the
catch-so the stroke is
shorter with less work
and takes less time.
Finishes not
sending the
boat, power
dying out, boat
not sitting up at
the finish-bows
lowering into
the water at
the end of
stroke
No run on the boat;
bows sinking into the
water at the end of each
stroke;
people too slow with
the hands and bodies
over, so that the weight
stays on the seat rather
than transferring to the
toes, coming up the
slide too quickly and
throwing their weight
against the direction of
travel;
bodies opening up too
soon making stroke
shorter, losing power in
the drive-no tension on
blade left by the finish
so lean back furtherrather than building the
pressure on the blade
from the catch-trying to
wrench the blade
towards them at the
finish;
blade not being released
square;
Wobbly
recovery
One side finishing
before the other;
imbalance of power
Let the boat run by having
fast hands and body rocked
over-dynamic swing
forwards- which gives you
plenty of time to go up the
slide;
hold the knees down ie get
hands and body phases
done before you slide;
sit up tall at the finish and
keep the feet connected;
rather than lie back, twist
the body from the hips to
align parallel with the
blade-outside shoulder
back;
Square blades to make sure
the extraction is sharp and
efficient, plus the blade isn’t
being feathered out- sending
a spray of water forwardsinefficient, at higher ratings
particularly finishing each
stroke effectively before
moving on to the next makes
a difference to starts;
looking over outside shoulder
at the finish to ensure body is
rotated and length of stroke is
optimised;
power exercise focussing on
middle and finish of stroke;
consistent level of hands
throughout the drive;
firm pressure finishes (not
wrenched though);
build the pressure through
the stroke to create the
pocket of air behind the
blade that allows it to be
tapped out easily
high pressure very low rating
work to get the run and glide
on the boat;
separation work pausing at
hands away, bodies over to
make these phases efficient;
delayed feathering at the
finish-blade out square, then
feather
Extraction of the blade must Separation exercises-drill from
be together, finish timing
arms only, arms and body etc;
together, tap down
pausing at hands away, then
together;
double pause hands away,
coming off the drive;
handle heights not
consistent across the
boat-could be due to
too much body lean,
dipping of the
shoulders, tapping down
too low and then
correcting;
body weight moving at
different times towards
the stern ie slide speeds
different;
hands away and bodies
over speed not
consistent eg hands
away fast in the stern
but slow in the bows;
squaring and feather
done by incorrect hand
or otherwise making the
balance go off;
body weight not central
in the boat and rowers
not feeling they are
connected on the
footplate all the way
forwards;
level hands with the person
in front;
body over, triple pause to ¼
slide etc;
imagine that you are
running your hands forward
along a table 2” above the
saxboard;
practising body swing
together whilst stationary and
not holding blades-make sure
boat not moving too much
whilst doing this-smooth
weight transfer rather than
throwing it back and forth;
only move forwards with
the seat in front of you;
setting the body position off
backstops (ie before sliding)
and not going for any extra
body lean on the way
forwards;
practising setting body
position off backstops and
gliding forward to just place
the blade in;
balance the weight of your
own rigger;
holding inside hand on the
loom rather than handle to
limit body position at catch;
make sure the button/collar
is pushed out against the
gate so there is lateral
pressure;
body weight central in the
boat, body weight over the
toes;
square blades.
Not enough power
throughout stroke;
Ratio; up two in the water,
down one on the slide;
one phase taking longer
than it should;
sharpen up the catches;
not enough body;
rock/swing forwards
before sliding;
hands not quick enough
practise feathering with
correct hand;
give yourselves the platform
rowing with only part of the
at the finish so that the boat
crew, and the others have
sits up and it is easier to
handles on the saxboard so
row well.
they do not help to sit it;
lack of fluidity in drive
and recovery phases.
Rhythm not
right-bow’s
puddles not
reaching the
cox, too little
power for the
speed of the
recovery
defining the inside hand’s
responsibility for stabilising
the blade in the recovery by
rowing with loose outside arm
during recovery;
spin the hands away at the
finish;
finish at the correct height
not into your lap;
power all the way through
Low rate pieces-down to rate
12ish with send on the strokes
to help balance;
rate pyramids; rate builds;
focus on efficient arms away
and body over before
movement up slide;
can slow recovery down by
around the turn;
the stroke;
ratio 1:1 when recovery
should be roughly twice
the time of the drive;
hold the knees down on the
recovery;
call for the puddles to come
past the stern;
icing the cake (arms away, in,
away, carry on), double
square (square, feather,
square, carry on);
counting out the recovery
slowly 1,2,3,
work as a unit, send the
rhythm through the boat
Cox being
thrown
backwards
every strokeparticularly in a
start/ boat
stopping before
the catch
Body weight moving too
quickly towards the
stern;
lack of fluidity in the
recovery so at each
phase weight being
thrown around;
pausing at the catch so
boat isn’t being picked
up at optimum point
Let the boat come to you;
relax the slide;
slow down the last ¼ of the
slide;
fast hands away;
make sure finishes are held
in to the correct height to
optimise boat speed;
quick catches, gentle hands
on the catch
Practise stationary starts-take
the slack out of the blade so it
holds tension with the water
on the first stroke-ensuring
that you go forwards from
stroke 1; practice these at ½
or ¾ pressure at first to make
them fluid;
slide control exercises, focus
on letting the boat move
underneath you without
dragging yourself up to the
catch-feet out;
sharp catches focussing on
smooth raising of the hands;
up 2s with the hands;
rate builds and pyramids to
practice controlling weight
forwards at higher pressures
Unable to wind
the boat speed
up
Hands too slow;
too much body lean
around the finish;
too much time being
taken at the catch and
finish;
power not coming on
together, not enough
power
Spin the hands quickly, push Practise fast hands away
off the footplate, sit tall,
whilst stationary;
finish each stroke off before
arms only up 2 exercise until
you move on to the next;
can go no faster, same for up
introduce the stride call to
2s at half slide;
move off the start to your
practise starts and the wind at
race rhythm with ‘stride in
¾ slide, limited body lean
3, stride in 2, stride in 1,
backwards, big leg drive;
stride’-this will probably be
the biggest stroke of the
lot of short bursts of interval
race-stroke is lengthened,
work, 10/20/30 firm going
legs are down, rhythm set
from stationary/steady state
up;
to high rate
sharpen catches up, keep all
phases controlled and not
splashy, focus on the
technique;
practise 10 wind going into
the stride so high rate power
settles to powerful race
rhythm
hold knees together to
strengthen the push off the
footplate, and imagine
doing a really dynamic
squat in the gym.
Good Technique
The stroke is broken down into sections, detailing the things rowers should be doing /
thinking about at that point:
Early Drive
- Feel the connection of the blade with the water before start to drive, don’t lose the
precious inches of the stroke at the catch (most powerful part of the stroke).
- Press off the footplate with the legs do not draw with the arms (keep the arms straight –
lever that connects blade to legs), like the start of a squat jump.
- Sitting up tall from the bottom of the spine, but keep the body rocked forwards (shoulders
in front of hips), engage the core muscles (neutral position), head up looking over the
person in front.
Mid Drive
- Keep the shoulders in front of hips.
- There should be no body rock.
- Don’t lift the shoulders, keep them relaxed.
- Only the spoon of the blade should be in the water, not the shaft of the blade as this
shortens the arc of the stroke.
- Hold the posture and the suspension with the core.
- Keep the pressure on the footplate, weight should feel light on the seat.
- The hands should be horizontal, arms should be straight.
- The drive should be a fluid motion, should feel relaxed.
- Straightening the legs.
Finish – very important part of the stroke.
- Suspension necessary in the drive.
- Straight back.
- Leaver through the hips with the pelvis, swing through.
- Pressure comes off the feet and is transferred to the toes.
- To get the most out of leg drive keep connection with footplate, keep legs fully flexed until
the pressure is released.
- Release the pressure on the arms, they just direct the power; don’t pull on the arms at the
back end (men are especially prone to this).
- Don’t bring handle into body, bring the elbows into the body to lengthen the finish
(imagine the stroke continues behind the body and you have to chop it off because the body
gets in the way).
- Draw through to the second rib, brush the thumbs against the body.
- Gluts provide support to keep the body stable (even pressure on the balls of both feet and
on seat).
Release (Tap Down)
- Bow raises out of the water as the pressure is transferred from the blade to the water.
- Important part of the stroke for stabilising the platform.
- Relaxed shoulders and straight in body. - Head up (slightly looking up) - Open chest – push
out.
- Relax gluts as tap down, breathe out, keep recovery flowing (stroke never stops).
- Turn wrists for blade swivel on inside hand only – can be practised on land, keep the wrists
flat.
- Relax outside hand’s grip but don’t lose contact with blade.
- Sit still and wait for the boat to move under you so that it moves you back to the catch
position through the recovery.
Recovery - ¼ Slide to ½ Slide
- Hands move at boat speed, ‘sharp’ movement with boat.
- Body remains still shoulders back, move blade with elbows.
- Rock over pelvis through hips with shoulders find ‘lumber neutral’ move into position with
boat speed.
- Start to use the quads as legs compress. - Try not to slow the boat down.
Recovery - ½ Slide to ¾ Slide
- Allow the boat to move under you; 4/5 of the work is done by the boat.
- Keep a constant speed through the recovery – otherwise boat accelerates and resistance
goes up, slows it down and has negative impact on boat speed.
- Don’t slow down the last part.
- Want to return as fast as possible without slowing the boat down.
- Should be ready for catch at half slide, start to square just over half slide.
Recovery - ¾ Slide to Catch
- Part of the stroke that determines how fast the boat goes.
- Core activated, chest open.
- The boat is working - keep weight on seat light, don’t disrupt the momentum of the boat.
- Weight into stern but should be lifting the stern out of the water not dipping it.
- Keep shoulders parallel to handles, rotate around so blade is parallel to front stay of rigger
at the catch.
- Blade should be half squared at ¾, progressive squaring to the catch.
- Relax the inside shoulder, lean around to rigger pivot around to get the arc.
- Can get them to focus on the outside fingers to follow around with the head.
Catch
- Bodies are still.
- Arms only action - lift them to allow the blade to drop into the water, think about the
hands following the ramp of the footplate into the catch.
- Chest up and open out of the boat.
- Sit tall, heads up.
- Push out to stern.
- The end of the recovery not the start of the drive – still moving backwards when blade
enters water.
- Allow the weight to come off the handle – use gravity to drop it in (think of following the
ramp of the footplate into the catch).
- Ensure full leg compression to make full power. Often end up catching at ¾.
- Any splash is wasted energy, catch should be quick and quiet.
- Find the weight on the balls of the feet, pressure on footplate.
- If the boat rolls, encourage them to relax and work with it.
Parts of the boat