FASH 15 textiles
natural cellulosic fibers—seed fibers
natural cellulosic fibers
all plants contain fibrous bundles that give
• strength to the stem & root
• pliability to the leaves
• cushioning or protection to developing seeds
natural cellulosic fibers
classified according to plant component from which
they are removed:
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seed
stem (bast)
leaf
miscellaneous—root, bark, husk, moss
natural cellulosic fibers
Seed Fibers
Cotton
Kapok
Coir
Jute
Bast Fibers
Flax
Ramie
Hemp
Milkweed
Kenaf
Hibiscus
Nettle
Bamboo
Leaf Fibers
Pina
Abaca
Sisal
Henequen
Miscellaneous
Fibers
Rush
Sea grass
Maize
Palm fiber
hundreds have been used—we’ll focus on the ones
that are more globally significant or have potential for
future growth
natural cellulosic fibers
properties common to all cellulosic fibers
Properties
Importance to Consumer
Good absorbency
Comfortable for warm weather;
activewear; interiors. Good for
towels, diapers & activewear
Good conductor of heat
Sheer fabrics cool for warmweather wear
Ability to withstand high
temp
Fabrics can be sterilized; no special
pressing precautions
Low resiliency
Fabrics wrinkle badly unless finish
applied
Low loft; good
compressibility
Dense, high-count fabrics possible;
wind-resistant fabrics possible
Good conductor of
electricity
No static build-up
Properties
Importance to Consumer
Heavy fibers
Fabrics are heavier than comparable
fabrics of other fibers
Harmed by mineral
acids, minimal damage
by organic acids
Remove acid stains immediately
Attacked by mildew
Store clean items under dry conditions
Resistant to moths,
eaten by silverfish &
crickets
Store clean items under dry conditions
Flammable
Ignite quickly, burn freely with an
afterglow and gray, feathery ash;
loosely constructed garments should
not be worn near an open flame;
interior textiles should meet required
codes
Moderate resistance to
sunlight
Draperies should be lined
seed fibers
seed fibers develop in the seedpod of the plant
to use the fiber it must be separated from the seed—
seed is then used to produce oil & animal feed
most important seed fiber?
http://www.youtube.
com/watch?v=_KZWe
0sYglc
cotton
cotton is an important cash crop in more than 80
countries
the major producers in the world are:
• China—32.0%
• India—21.8%
• USA—12.2%
• Pakistan—7.8%
• Brazil—5.7%
in 2007 worldwide, 113 million bales (480 lbs/bale)
cotton
physical structure of cotton—length
cotton fiber is a single cell—grows from the seed as a
hollow tube over 1000 times as long as it is thick
staple length is very important:
• affects how fiber is handled during spinning
• relates to fiber fineness & tensile strength
longer cotton fibers are finer and make stronger yarns
range from ½ - 2 inches long
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upland cottons: 7/8 – 1 ¼ inches, Mexico/Central America
(97% of US crop)
long-staple cottons: 1 6/16 – 1 ½ inches, Egyptian/South
American
short-staple cottons: less than ¾ inch, Indian/Eastern Asian
physical structure of cotton—length
long staple fibers are considered to be higher quality—
produce softer, smoother, stronger & more lustrous fabrics:
• Pima
• Supima
• Egyptian
• Sea Island
physical structure of cotton—distinctive parts
the cotton fiber is made up of:
• cuticle—waxlike film covering primary wall
• primary wall
• secondary wall—cellulose layers
• lumen—central canal that carries nourishment
physical structure of cotton—convolutions
convolutions are ribbon-like twists that characterize
cotton
twists form a natural texture that enables the fibers to
cling to one another—thus despite short length
spinning is easy
convolutions may trap soil making cleaning more
difficult
physical structure of cotton—fineness
cotton fibers vary from 16-20 micrometers in diameter
cross-sectional shape varies with maturity:
• immature tend to be u-shaped
• mature nearly circular
physical structure of cotton—color
cotton is available in a range of colors—creamy white
most desirable for dyeing purposes
interest in naturally colored cottons is increasing due to
less environmental impact—brown, rust, red, beige &
green are available
plant breeders continue
to work to add blue,
lavender & yellow
classification of cotton
describes the quality of cotton in terms of:
• staple length—based on the length of a
representative bundle; 19 staple lengths
• grade—refers to color and absence of dirt, leaf
matter, seed particles, motes/dead fibers, tangles
(neps); 39 grades
• character—includes aspects such as maturity,
smoothness & fiber uniformity, fineness, strength
and convolutions
chemical composition of cotton
cotton is when picked is 94% cellulose—finished cotton
is 99% cellulose
cotton can be altered using chemical treatments or
finishes
EXAMPLE:
mercerization—treating yarns or fabrics with sodium
hydroxide causes a permanent physical change:
makes fibers more absorbent and improves dyeability
properties of cotton—aesthetics
cotton certainly has consumer acceptance
matte appearance & low luster are standard
drape, luster, texture & hand are affected by choice of yarn
size & type, fabric structure, and finish
cottons range from soft, sheer batiste to crisp, sheer voile
to fine chintz & sturdy denim and corduroy
properties of cotton—durability
cotton is a medium-strength fiber—30% stronger wet
can be handled roughly during laundering & in use
abrasion resistance is good—heavy fabrics more so than
thinner fabrics
fiber elongation is low, with low elasticity
properties of cotton—comfort
cotton makes very comfortable fabrics for skin contact
because of absorbency, soft hand & good heat and
electrical conductivity
static buildup is not a problem
has no surface characteristics that irritate the skin
good for use in hot, humid climates—moisture passes
freely through fabric , thus aiding evaporation & cooling
properties of cotton—appearance retention
overall appearance retention for cotton is moderate
with very low resiliency
hydrogen bonds holding molecular chains together are
weak so it wrinkles easily
all-cotton fabrics shrink unless finished otherwise;
untreated cottons shrink less in cool water with drip dry
cotton stays stretched out in areas of stress—such as
elbows or knees
properties of cotton—care
cotton can be washed with strong detergents and
requires no special care during washing and drying
white cottons can be washed in hot water—dyed
cottons retain their color better if washed in warm
water
cotton releases most soils readily but soil-resistant finishes
are desirable for some interior & apparel uses
excessive bleaching weakens cellulosic fibers
cotton fabrics respond best to steam pressing or ironing
while damp—can be ironed safely at high temperatures
properties of cotton—care
cotton draperies should be dry-cleaned
cotton upholstery may be steam-cleaned with caution
cottons should be stored clean and dry
cotton is harmed by acids—fruit & fruit juice stains
should be treated promptly
cotton oxidizes in sunlight which causes yellowing and
degradation—some dyes are especially sensitive
environmental concerns & sustainability
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agrichemicals—pest control, defoliants
soil erosion
water-intensive
genetically-modified cotton ???
long-term environmental & health effects are unknown
organic cotton—no synthetic commercial pesticides or fertilizers are used
transition cotton—produced on land where organic farming is practiced but
3 year minimum has not been met
green cotton— fabric that has not been bleached or treated with other
chemicals
conventional cotton—everything else
environmental concerns & sustainability
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2Crnk9ZiZs
identification of cotton
microscopic identification of cotton is relatively easy—
convolutions are easily seen along the fiber
burn tests verify cellulose
fiber length helps identify content
cotton is soluble is sulfuric acid
uses of cotton
cotton is the single most important apparel fiber in the
US
also very important in interiors because of its versatility,
natural comfort and ease of finishing and dyeing
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sheets & pillowcases
blankets & bedspreads
draperies & curtains
upholstery
slipcovers
rugs
wall coverings
uses of cotton
medical, surgical & sanitary supplies frequently made
of cotton—can be autoclaved for sanitization
technical uses include book bindings, luggage,
handbags, shoes, slippers, tobacco cloth, woven
wiping cloths
recycled denim? paper currency, insulation
other seed fibers—coir
coir comes from fibrous mass between outer shell and
husk of the coconut
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MM3uviXP0VU
has good resistance to abrasion, water & weather
used for indoor/outdoor mats, rugs, floor tiles, and
brushes
floor textiles are extremely durable and blend with
many interior styles
other seed fibers—kapok
kapok is obtained from the seed of the Java kapok (silk
cotton) tree or the Indian kapok tree
fiber is lightweight, soft, hollow, very buoyant; breaks
down quickly
difficult to spin into yarns—used mainly as fiberfill
researchers are studying ways to blend kapok with
cotton for apparel uses
other seed fibers—milkweed
milkweed produces a soft, lustrous, hollow-floss seed
fiber resembling kapok
has been used as fiberfill in comforters, personal
flotation devices and upholstery
very difficult to spin into yarns because it is so weak,
smooth and straight
also known as silkweed fiber
and asclepias cotton