Trimming, Grading, Clipping & Notching Seams Trimming, Grading and Clipping Seams Trimming To cut off part of the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Trim away 3/8 inch of fabric along the full length of the seam. Grading Means to trim each layer of the seam allowance to a different width. Trimming the seam reduces bulk more smoothly. Clipping Means to cut slits into the seam allowance. Needed on all seams with an inside curve. Usually done at ½ inch intervals at a 90°angle. REASONS If seam lines tend to pucker or look bulky. Want seams on a finished garment to appear smooth. Notching Means to cut wedges into the seam allowance. Is done on seams with an outside curve. Removes excess fabric that otherwise cause the seam to be bulky when turned. Trimming -cut off part of the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Method of Trimming -trim away ⅜ of an inch of fabric along the full length of the seam. -this will leave a ¼ inch seam allowance. Grading -cutting layers of a seam allowance to varying (different) widths. Method of Grading -trim each seam allowance to a different width -garment seam allowance is left widest -facing seam allowance is trimmed narrowest -layers in between, trimmed more than the garment, but less than the facing Clipping -to cut slits into the seam allowance. -needed on all seams with an inside (inward) curve. Purpose of clipping -seam will turn over smoothly. -curved seams not clipped, will pucker when turned. Method of Clipping -use points of shears - cut into seam allowance at right angles to seam line -cuts should be ½” apart, cutting almost to the seam line. -inside corners clip diagonally from seam edge to stitching Notching -cut wedges into the seam allowance. -needed on all seams with an outside (outward) curve. Purpose of Notching -remove excess fabric – if not removed will cause the seam to be bulky when turned. Method of Notching -v-shaped cuts (wedges) that are cut at ½” apart to the seam line. Trimming Corners -corners are trimmed diagonally across the corner. Method of Trimming -trim excess fabric from the sides of a point at an angle.