Page 1
BGLZ
Services to Industry
Plumbing Study Guide
Level 1
Page 2
INDEX
SECTION
SUBJECT
PAGES
1
Safety signs
2-3
2
Risk assessment
4-5
3
Personal Protective Equipment
6
4
‘X’ dimension
7
5
Defining unequal tee
8
6
Copper pipe bender
9
7
Copper parallel offset 135°
10-13
8
Copper parallel offset 90°
14-15
9
Passover ‘A’
16-18
10
Plumbing symbols
19-21
11
Push-fit
22-24
12
Compression fitting
25-26
13
Plumbing components
27-30
14
Tool identification
31-32
15
LCS bending
33-34
16
LCS 90° bend
35-36
17
LCS 90° parallel offset
37-38
18
LCS 135° parallel
19
Waste pipe
20
Soil pipe
39
40-42
43
Page 3
Safety Signs
Example
Identification
Round shape.
White pictogram on a
blue background.
The blue part to take up
at least 50% of the area
of the sign.
Description
Mandatory
sign is a sign prescribing specific
behaviour, they are mainly used to tell you
what you must do, particularly where you
have to wear specifically PPE (eg eye
protection)
The prescribed behaviour of this sign
must be followed.
Round shape.
Black pictogram on white
background.
Red edging and diagonal
line.
The red part to take up at
least 35% of the area of
the sign.
Prohibition
sign is a sign prohibiting behaviour likely to
increase or cause danger (eg no smoking)
The prescribed behaviour of this sign
must not be done.
Hazard Warning
Triangular shape.
a sign giving warning of a hazard or
Black picture with at least danger (eg danger: electricity)
50% yellow background.
These signs Alert you to possible dangers
Safe condition
Rectangular shape.
White picture on a green
background.
a sign giving advice (e.g. fire exits, first
aid, )
These signs Inform you about safe
practices or procedures.
Page 4
COSHH
(Control
Health)
Square shape.
Black pictogram on
orange background.
of
Substance
Hazardous
to
Sign warns you about the properties of a
chemical or substance. (e.g. flammable
substance)
These signs Inform you about the
potential harmful properties of the material.
These signs are British and are being
phased out.
GHS / GHL
Diamond shape.
Black pictogram on a
white background with a
red border.
(Global Harmonised
Harmonised Label)
Sign
/
Global
Sign warns you about the properties of a
chemical or substance. (e.g. flammable
substance)
These signs replace COSHH signs and
are international; introduced because of
global sales.
Page 5
RISK ASSESSMENT
Risk assessments are a very important part of the safety system in any environment.
We perform informal risk assessments many times every day; when we cross a road
or when we drive a car, etc.
In a work environment there is an increased number of hazards made more
dangerous by lack of experience of new employees. Add unseen hazards and a rush
to get the job done and the chance of an accident increases exponentially.
Get into the habit of keeping your
eyes open and being aware of
your environment, this will
increase your chances of seeing
a hazardous situation before it
becomes dangerous.
It is your legal duty if you see a hazard to do something about it,
whether it is raise you concerns to someone in charge or actively
correct / rectify the hazard.
Once you have corrected the hazard you should report it as a ‘near
miss’ even though no one was hurt time if the situation is repeated
the next person might not be so lucky.
There are times that you will have to do a more formal
written risk assessment most will have a form to follow, fill
out the information asked for, if in doubt ask.
The following chart shows you how the college rate the risk
we use a high, medium and low system other companies
used a 1 to 5 system 1 being the lowest risk and 5 being
the highest. Companies that use a number system will
specify the number at which the risk is acceptable or not.
The reality of work is we cannot remove all risk from life;
but we can minimize it and dramatically reduce the
consequences if something does go wrong.
Some risks are just not
acceptable!
Page 6
How to Rate Risks
Likelihood
TERM
DEFINITION
High
Would be expected to occur more than once
- people are exposed to the hazard continuously
- the hazard is difficult to see
- the hazard is encountered during adverse
environmental conditions
Medium
Low
Would be expected to occur once
- if the control measures provided depend on
individuals using them or adjusting them on every
occasion
May possibly occur
- if control measures are included that do not depend
on individuals adjusting them, or if training is
provided and regularly repeated.
Severity
TERM
DEFINITION
High
Multiple major injuries, single severe / disabling injury or
Occupational illness
Medium
RIDDOR major injury per event resulting in more than three
days absence from work
Low
Injury requiring medical attention and leading to absence from
work up to three days
Risk Matrix
Severity
Likelihood
High
Medium
Low
High
High
High
Medium
Medium
High
Medium
Low
Low
Medium
Low
Low
Risk Rating
TERM
DEFINITION
High
Review urgently required determining whether the risk can be
removed, reduced, or controlled.
Medium
Risk not acceptable, hazards and controls need investigation
to consider reasonable and practical improvements.
Low
Acceptable
Page 7
PPE
Before you start any work activity you must make sure, you are wearing /
using the appropriate safety equipment and are following all of the
workshop rules.
Personal Protective Equipment (P.P.E.) MUST be worn at all times in
the workshop. Remember that PPE does not make you invulnerable! It is
to protect you in case something goes wrong.
List the PPE use in the workshop / trade; detail what it protects you from.
PPE
What does it protect you from
Name two situations that would make the clothing or equipment unsuitable for use?
1.
________________________________________________________
2.
________________________________________________________
In addition to wearing your P.P.E. YOU must make sure that the Local
Exhaust Ventilation (L.E.V.) is turned on when soldering in the
workshop.
REPORT ANY DAMAGED EQUIPMENT TO YOUR TUTOR
IMMEDIATELY
Page 8
‘X’ Dimension
A
B
When joining copper pipe we take our measurements from the centre of the pipes.
When joining pipes with fitting we must be aware of the ‘X’ dimension. This is the
difference between the centre of the fitting and the end of the fitting A and the
amount of pipe that fits into the fitting B.
To find the ‘X’ dimension measure distance A and B, then subtract B from A to find
the X dimension.
Once we have the X dimension for each end of the pipe and the distance between
centres, all we have to do is subtract the total X dimension from the pipe length and
we know how long our pipe needs to be.
e.g.
Dimension A = 20mm
Dimension B =12mm
X dimension = A – B (20 – 12)
X dimension = 8mm
Therefore if you were producing a piece of pipe work with two tees and the pipe
centres off the branches were given as 300mm you would subtract the X dimension
from the measurement (times 2 one for each end) giving you a measurement of
300mm – (8 x 2) = 284mm.
Remember to check the X dimensions of each of the connections on a tee as they
are often different; they also change from manufacture to manufacturer
Page 9
Defining Unequal Tee
There are times in plumbing when we need to connect pipes of different diameters
we can use reducers or unequal fittings.
When describing unequal tees there is a specific way of doing it; the branch (the
connection coming off the side) is the last measurement given.
e.g.
Fitting 1 would be a 22-15-15mm unequal tee.
Fitting 2 would be a 28-28-15mm unequal tee.
Fitting 3 would be a 22-15-22mm unequal tee.
1
.
2
3
.
.
Page 10
Pipe Bending
1
2
3
4
1.
2.
3.
4.
When bending copper pipe through 90° we place our mark on the pipe where we
want the centre of the bend.
Place the pipe in the bender aligning the mark using a square or piece of pipe.
Place a pencil mark on the pipe where it sits in the tube former this makes sure if the
pipe is removed from the bender it goes back in the correct place.
Bend the pipe checking it as you get close to the 90° it is better to under bend than
over bend.
Page 11
Parallel Offset
When bending copper pipes at angles less than
90° we place the mark between the 1 and the 5
of the 15 on the tube former.
With a little practice this method is more than
accurate enough for our plumbing needs.
When bending offsets it is important to know the
shortest distance that can be bent in the bender;
this will affect the sizes of the offsets and
passovers.
Experiment with the bender and make a note of
the minimum length of pipe that can be bent.
Minimum length of pipe
15mm ________________________
22mm ________________________
The distance
between the two
centres is the off-set
Page 12
First lay out your drawing.
Draw two parallel lines the required
distance apart; either from a drawing or
from your direct measurements.
Now draw the angle of the offset; the
angle will either come from the drawing
or be dictated by the minimum length
that you can bend in the bender.
Using a sharp pencil of fine tipped
permanent marker mark the location of
the first bend on your pipe.
1
Place the pipe in the pipe in the bender
aligning the mark between the 1 and the
5 of the 15mm.
.
Gradually pull the first bend.
Draw a line on the pipe where it sits in
the pipe former this will allow you to put
the pipe back in the correct place if you
need to bend it again; remember it is
better to under bend than over bend.
2
.
3
.
Place your bend on your pattern; if it
needs more bending put it back into the
bender and bend it until the angle is
correct.
Place the pipe on top of the line of your
pattern align it with the base and angle
line.
Where the pipe crosses the second
parallel line of your pattern, mark a line
at 90° to the axis of the pipe.
Page 13
Place your pipe into the bender aligning
the new mark with the same position
between the 15mm.
Make sure the second bend is in the
correct direction.
Finally before you start to pull the second
bend check the alignment of the bend;
you need both bends in the same plane.
Check the final bend against your
pattern.
When starting you can make mistakes;
learn from each mistake do not repeat
them.
Look back over the work to see where
you went wrong and correct the error on
the next attempt.
4
.
5
.
When bending offsets in 22mm pipe
there is no mark like the ‘15mm’; this can
make getting the bend in the correct
position difficult.
One way around this is to mark your pipe
as before then place a second mark
46mm back from the first.
Place this mark against the back of the
pipe former; this will give you the bend in
the position you want.
Page 14
An alternative method of marking the
pipe out for bending is to produce the
drawing as before.
6
Place the pipe on the drawing and scribe
a line on the pipe following the line of
plan.
.
There are times when you use a pipe
bender that do not have the 15mm mark
on the former; or the mark might be in a
different place. This is when you can use
this method.
Place the pipe into the bender aligning
the mark with the radius of the former.
You could use a rule or other straight
edge to do this.
This method is equally accurate.
Experiment with both methods see which
you prefer.
As long as the method you chose is
accurate and repeatable.
Page 15
90° Parallel Offset
First draw two parallel lines; the distance
between them is the required offset.
1
.
Then draw a third line at 90° to the first
two lines towards the middle of the two
lines.
90°
2
.
Bend the first 90° bend using a square or
piece of pipe to align it in the bender.
Place the bend on the drawing align the
pipe with the base and the middle line.
Mark a line on the pipe following the line
of the drawing.
3
.
Measure down one pipe diameter and
mark a second line.
4
.
Place the pipe back in the bender; align
the second mark using a square or piece
of pipe.
Before you start the bend make sure the
two bends are in line.
Page 16
The offset should sit on the drawing with
the bottom of the pipe sitting on the top
of both lines of the pattern.
Page 17
Passover ‘A’
There are times when you will need to
pipes to cross paths, when this happens
we use a Passover ‘A’.
Measurements for the Passover are
determined by the size of the pipe that
needs to be passed over.
To start the layout drawing first draw a
straight line.
Then draw a second line approximately
half way along the line at 90° to the first
line.
Now mark the distance required for the
Passover on the second line.
1
.
The distance is the diameter of the pipe
plus a clearance of between 15-20mm.
In this case the distance is 30mm (15mm
for the pipe and 15mm for the clearance)
Place an offcut of pipe on this mark and
draw around it.
Page 18
Now mark the minimum distance that
you can bend in the bender either side of
the middle line; in this case 80-90mm
Using your off cut of pipe draw two more
circles on the bottom line centred on the
marks you have just drawn.
2
.
Using a sharp pencil of fine tipped
permanent marker mark the location of
the first bend on your pipe.
1
.
Place the pipe in the pipe in the bender
aligning the mark between the 1 and the
5 of the 15mm.
Gradually pull the first bend.
2
.
Draw a line on the pipe where it sits in
the pipe former this will allow you to put
the pipe back in the correct place if you
need to bend it again; remember it is
better to under bend than over bend.
Place your bend on your pattern; if it
needs more bending put it back into the
bender and bend it until the angle is
correct.
Align the bend with the centre mark on
your central line and the three circles
should be covered by the pipe.
Where the pipe crosses base line of your
pattern, mark two line at 90° to the axis
of the pipe.
The mark on the right side needs to be
scribed completely around the pipe.
Page 19
Place your pipe into the bender aligning
the new mark with the same position
between the 15mm.
Make sure the second bend is in the
correct direction.
Finally before you start to pull the second
bend check the alignment of the bend;
you need both bends in the same plane.
Remember this bend is only half that of
the first bend, it is very shallow bend.
Turn the pipe around and place it back
into the bender aligning the new mark
with the same position between the
15mm.
Make sure the second bend is in the
correct direction.
Finally before you start to pull the second
bend check the alignment of the bend;
you need both bends in the same plane.
At you start to bend look down the pipe
keep bending until the two ends of the
pipe are aligned.
Finally place the passover on the pattern
making sure it is in line and the circles
are covered.
When starting you can make mistakes;
learn from each mistake do not repeat
them.
Look back over the work to see where
you went wrong and correct the error on
the next attempt.
Page 20
PLUMBING SYMBOLS
When working on some sites and industrial installations, drawings of the plumbing
system will be used. The components will be represented with symbols.
It is important that you recognize the symbols for components as fitting the wrong
component could have serious consequences.
Page 21
Page 22
WATER
GAS
Page 23
Push-Fit
1
2
3
4
5
6
.
.
.
.
.
.
Component name
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
What it does
Page 24
2
1
.
.
Inside the push fit fitting there are two
sealing components;
The black ‘O’ ring is one of the main seals
that stops the fitting from leaking. This seal
goes into the fitting first.
The blue washer holds the black ‘O’ ring in
place applying an even clamping pressure.
The pipe is cut to length; if you can cut the
pipe to one of the marks on the pipe this will
help you when it comes to assembly.
If you cannot cut the pipe on one of the
marks make a note of the distance apart the
marks are.
Insert the insert.
Before assembling the fitting add a small
amount of lubricant to the end of the pipe;
when new the fitting would be lubricated but
when they are reused the lubricant is worn
off.
The lubricant allows the pipe to slip easily
into the fitting.
Hold the pipe in one hand and the fitting
with the other and push firmly.
There should be a positive feeling as the
pipe slips into its correct position.
Notice the mark is now right up against the
locking ring.
If the pipe is not pushed in this far then it will
leak.
Page 25
When dismantling the joint you need to
separate the pipe form the fitting by
overcoming the locking ring.
Hold the fitting in one hand with your index
finger on one side of the locking ring.
With your other hand grip the pipe with your
thumb against the other side of the locking
ring.
Simultaneously pull back on your finger,
push with your thumb and pull with your
hand that is holding the pipe.
Sometimes the insert will stay in the pipe
when it comes out of the fitting. If it does
remove the insert and return it and the pipe
to the appropriate place.
Often the insert will become detached and
remain in the fitting.
When this happens unscrew the nut from
the fitting.
You will now see the insert and sealing
rings ‘stuck’ in the fitting.
Remove the insert and sealing rings from
the fitting.
Immediately reassemble the fitting with the
seals in the correct order; if you do not and
one or both of the seals goes missing the
fitting will become useless.
Page 26
Compression Fitting
1
.
Component name
1.
2.
3.
4.
2
3
4
.
.
What it does
Page 27
Assemble the fitting, make sure all of the
olives are in place and are new.
Once an olive has been used it should not
be used again.
Push the pipe into the fitting ensuring it is all
the way in and tighten the nut.
Use two spanners to tighten the nut; the first
spanner is placed on the nut the second
spanner is placed on the flat on the body of
the fitting.
As the nut tightens it squeezes the olive
onto the pipe; the tight fit between the nut,
fitting and olive is water and gas tight.
1
.
Do not over tighten the nut as this can over
squeeze the olive causing it to leak and
weaken the pipe.
When fitting a compression fitting in a
property a jointing compound can be used;
this allows for any expansion and
contraction between the pipe and fitting.
When disassembling the joint remove the
nut and withdraw the pipe from the fitting;
the olive should be secure on the pipe.
You can try and remove the nut by sliding
an adjustable spanner along the pipe
knocking it off the pipe.
If the olive is still stuck on the pipe use a
pipe cutter or junior hack saw to remove a
small section of pipe holding the olive.
In industry you can buy an olive splitter and
olive puller; these remover the olive without
damaging the pipe.
This allows the joint to be remade with a
new olive without renewing the pipe work.
Page 28
Fittings Identification
Page 29
Page 30
Page 31
Page 32
Tool Identification
Page 33
Page 34
LCS Bending
1
.
2
.
3
.
Low Carbon Steel (LCS) sometimes
called iron pipe is much more ridged
than copper pipe; this makes it harder
to bend. To bend LCS pipe we use a
hydraulic bender.
The bender uses a hand operated
hydraulic ram to push the former and
bend the pipe. Because LCS is more
ridged it does not require a back guide
along its entire length two guide roles
are used instead.
4
.
5
.
Component name
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
What it does
Page 35
First select the correct former for the size
of pipe you are bending.
The formers are marked on both sides;
The one side is metric the other side is
imperial. The size refers to the internal
diameter (ID). That is why the equivalent
LCS pipe is larger than its copper
counterpart.
Place the former on the spigot on top of
the hydraulic ram.
1
Close the pressure release valve at the
base of the ram by turning it clockwise
using the end of the pumping handle.
.
Once the pipe has been placed in to the
former and adjusted to the correct
position the ram is pumped first tacking
up the slack and then bending the pipe.
Place the pumping handle into the
pumping socket and pump the handle
back and forth to move the ram.
Because the LCS pipe is more ridged it
needs to be over bent by approximately
5° this allows for ‘spring back’ when the
bending force is removed.
2
.
To remove the pipe from the bender using
the pumping handle turn the pressure
release valve anti-clock wise until the ram
starts to return.
Page 36
90° LCS Bending
3
.
4
.
Place your pipe on the pattern;
mark a line across the pipe in line
with the top line of your drawing.
Mark a second line on the pipe one
pipe diameter (internal diameter /
nominal bore) down. This second
mark is the mark that you place in
the bender.
Place the pipe in the bender
aligning the second mark with the
centre of the former.
Pump the handle until the pipe is
bent to the 90° angle.
Place the bend back on the pattern
to check the offset and bend.
Notice that the top line of the
pattern is in the centre of the pipe
as measurements are taken pipe
centre to pipe centre.
Page 37
When bending larger diameter pipe
you need to move the two guide
rolls further apart.
5
.
This increases the radius of the
bend. If the radius is too tight the
pipe can buckle or even collapse.
To move the guide rolls;
6
Remove the retaining pin.
.
Hold the guide roll in one hand.
Withdraw the pin.
7
.
8
.
To install the guide roll hold the roll
where you want it to go. Insert the
pin. Then fit the retaining pin.
Page 38
90° LCS Offset
Produce a pattern of the bend.
Produce the first 90° as previously
shown.
.
Place the first bend onto the pattern;
(note the pipe is below the line)
mark the pipe where the top line
crosses it.
2
Then mark a second mark ½ the OD
+ 1 x ID.
1
.
e.g. 15mm pipe
15mm pipe ID = 15mm
15mm pipe OD = 21.5mm
Therefore the mark will be
15 +
21.5
= 25.75𝑚𝑚
2
This can be rounded to 26mm
When the pipe is marked place it in
to the bender, aligning the second
mark with the centre of the bending
former.
Before you start bending make
sure the first bend is vertical. Start
bending.
Take up the slack in the hydraulic
ram then check the alignment of
the pipe, pump the jacking handle a
one or two times and check the
alignment again as it can move
during the first part of the bend.
Page 39
When you have bent the pip place
it on to the patter and check the
bend is correct.
Remember it is easier to bend the
pipe a little bit more, than to try and
unbend it.
When complete the pipe should
line up with all of the lines on the
pattern.
Page 40
135° LCS Offset
First lay out your drawing.
Draw two parallel lines the required
distance apart; either from a drawing or
from your direct measurements.
Now draw the angle of the offset; the
angle will either come from the drawing
or be dictated by the minimum length
that you can bend in the bender.
Produce your first bend.
Place the bend on your pattern above
the bottom line; aligning it with the two
lines.
Strike a mark at 90° to the pipe
where the pipe crosses the top
line.
Check the finished bend against your
pattern.
If it needs to be bent any more put it
back into the bender.
Remember it is easier to bend the pipe a
little bit more, than to try and unbend it.
When complete the pipe should line up
with all of the lines on the pattern.
Page 41
Waste Pipe
Waste pipe transports waste water from the bath, basin, shower, sink etc. the pipe
comes is many sizes some of the more common sizes are 32mm, 40mm, 50mm.
Waste pipe also comes in different forms this denotes how it is joined together the types
of waste pipe are Push fit, Compression and solvent weld.
Push-fit tends to be for DIY use as it is easy to assemble.
Solvent weld is a professional method of assembling waste pipe; it is permanent and
rarely leaks.
Compression is typically used to attach items such as traps, self-sealing valves, etc.
compression fittings can also be used as a union in solvent weld pipe.
Identify the following type of fittings
.
Page 42
Waste pipe can be marked with a pencil or fine tipped marker. To cut the pipe to size
traditionally a saw would have been used. Today you can get waste pipe cutters that
look like oversized pipe slices; these have the advantage of cutting square and leaving
no shavings.
Methods of pipe cutting
Hack saw
Plastic pipe slice
Pipe slice in action
However you cut the pipe the end of the pipe will need to be prepared prior to assembly;
all of the pipes will need to de-burred internally as burrs can snag hair and other waste
leading to blockages.
The push-fit and compression pipe should be further prepared by chamfering the end of
the pipe; this has two benefits firstly it makes assembly easier, secondly the chamfer
allows the pipe to be inserted into the fitting without dislodging or damaging the seal
Modern Chamfering Tool
The tool
External chamfering tool
Internal chamfering tool
Page 43
Once the pipe has been cut and prepped it needs to be lightly lubricated before fitting it
into the fitting this allows it to fit together easily.
When connecting solvent weld pipe the pipe is cut and internally de-burred as above; the
end of the pipe is then cleaned with a solvent to remove any grease or dirt that would
interfere with the gluing process.
Solvent weld is then applied to both the outside pipe and the inside of the fitting; there is
a very short curing time so the components should be fitted together quickly once set the
connection is permanent and cannot be readjusted.
An important factor to note is the design of the waste tees. These are called swept tees
because the branch ‘sweeps’ into the main connection; this is to allow the water to flow
freely through the system.
As a result the swept tee has three different ‘x’ dimension measurements
2
3
.
.
1
.
It is also important to consider the flow of water through the system when installing a
swept tee; if the tee is installed upside down it will impede the flow of water.


Page 44
Soil Pipe
Soil pipe transports the waste water and foul water from w/c and bidet; it comes in a
variety of sizes including 75mm 110mm 150mm.
Soil pipe comes in two main colours grey and brown.
Colour
Where is it used
Grey
Brown
Soil pipe fittings come in push-fit and solvent weld.
The push-fit soil pipe can be considered as an oversized push-fit waste pipe; it can be
cut with a hand saw or propriety cutter. The end of the pipe needs to be de-burred and
chamfered and lubricated prior to assembly.
Methods of pipe cutting
Hand saw
Manual stand mounted cutter
Cordless pipe cutter
Soil pipe needs to chamfered if using push-fit fittings; if the cut is done with a hand saw
the chamfering is often done with a rasp (very course file) the other two pipe cutting
methods shown above both chamfer the pipe as part of the cutting process.