Sunscreen Allergy: A review and an Update
Vincent St Aubyn Crump FRCP (UK), FRACP
23 January 2014
This review will not discuss any of the controversial adverse effects of sunscreens reported
in the media, like disruption of the hormone system, inhalation of nanoparticles or any other
toxic concern. It is specifically concerned with the objective, scientifically proven adverse
effects of sunscreen on the skin.
Introduction
Doctors and public health campaigns encourage photoprotection, in order to reduce the
growing prevalence of skin cancers and early skin aging. In New Zealand, in 2010 about onehalf of adults and adolescents reported that they wore sunscreen, while doing outdoor
activities at the week-end (National Research Bureau, 2010). A recent study in Europe
(Suppa M, 2014) showed that over 80% of the patients reported use of sunscreens. Also a
recent systematic review of 16 interventional studies, found 5 studies that specifically
demonstrated an increased use of sunscreens. With the increased use of sunscreens it is not
surprising that there has been an increase in reports of adverse reactions to sunscreens.
Adverse reactions to sunscreens include four kinds of contact dermatitis: irritant, allergic,
phototoxic and photoallergic. These reactions (that are usually associated with a visible
rash) are caused by the active chemical UV filters (absorbers), preservatives, fragrances, and
bases like lanoline, but not the UV blockers (Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide). The
benzophenones (especially benzophenone-3) and dibenzoylmethanes (Avobenzone or
Parasol 1789) are the main culprits at the moment.
However, non-allergenic (patch test-negative) “irritant” reactions, often with very little
visible signs, due to ‘stinging’ compounds in sunscreens are probably the commonest cause
of adverse reactions in someone with “sensitive” skin. The objective diagnosis of sensitive
skin is very difficult, as it is based on subjective descriptions from the patients. The
estimated prevalence of ‘sensitive skin’ in Europe, the United States, and Japan is 50%
among women and 30% among men11.
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Sunscreens
UVB is the major cause of sunburn and increased skin cancer risk, while UVA contributes to
ageing of the skin, as well as skin cancer risk. A broad-spectrum agent is necessary to block
or filter the effects of both UVA & UVB.
Sunscreens are traditionally divided into chemical absorbers and physical blockers on the
basis of their mechanism of action.
Chemical sunscreens function best to prevent sunburn from UV-B radiation. They do this by
absorbing ultraviolet (UV) radiation and incorporate its energy into the sunscreen molecule
and converting the ultraviolet energy into less dangerous wavelengths. They provide more
limited protection from UV-A radiation. There are approximately 120 chemicals that work as
UV filters.
Physical sunblock generally comprise zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or a combination of both.
Similar to clothing, they physically reflect and scatter UV radiation, dissipating the energy in
the surrounding environment. However, sun avoidance remains the best form of UV
protection.
Sunscreen Groups (refer Sunscreen table at end of document)
The FDA classifies sunscreen active ingredients as either physical (also known as Inorganic),
which acts as barriers that reflect or scatter radiation and light similar to clothing or
Chemical (also known as Organic) agents, which absorb photons of UV radiation, and
converts it to a lower energy level or longer wavelength. Each chemical sunscreen absorbs a
specific range of wavelength. The Physical or Inorganic sunscreen active ingredients are the
only active sunscreen agents that should be labelled as “hypoallergenic”, since on their own
they are inert as far as allergies are concerned.
The most common sunscreens on the market today include avobenzone, oxybenzone,
octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate, and octonoxate.
Active Ingredients in Sunscreen Products:
(Source: Environmental Protection Agency)
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Clinical Features of sunscreen allergy
A sunscreen rash is often clinically indistinguishable from a photosensitive rash of any cause.
General features of a “photosensitivity” rash
 Eczematous reaction in the sun-exposed areas, such as the “V” of the anterior neck,
the backs of the hands, the forearms.
 Typically, the upper eyelids, upper lip, and area under the chin and behind the ears
are spared
 Any skin area that receives sufficient light and is exposed to the photosensitising
Clinical features of the different sunscreen reactions:
 Reaction to sunscreen independent of UV exposure: Contact dermatitis
o Allergic Contact Dermatitis: Usually requires previous sensitisation. Onset is
usually within 48 hours of exposure. The rash is usually confined to the area
of exposure, with spread to the immediate surrounding areas. Very itchy,
red, thickened skin with vesicles (water blister) in the acute stage, but
becomes scaly and more thickened in the chronic stage.
o Irritant Contact Dermatitis: The rash is confined to the area of exposure, has
sharp margins, and with little spreading outside the area of direct contact.
o “Cosmetics Intolerance Syndrome (CIS) ” or “Sensitive Skin Syndrome”
Sensitive skin is a common term used by patients, health care providers, and
the cosmetic industry, and is a very complex clinical challenge for everyone.
This is probably one of the most frequently reported adverse reactions to
sunscreens. Skin sensitivity is a subjective (sensory) irritation, and Howard
Maibach7, an expert in dermatotoxicology, coined the term cosmetics
intolerance syndrome. The reactions are described as burning, stinging, or
itching, often without any visible rash. It tends to start within 30 to 60
minutes of applying the sunscreen, and often disappears within 2 hours or
up to 2 days after exposure. The reaction usually occurs on the face,
especially around the eyes. The explanation is “a biochemical irritation” in a
‘sensitive’ skin. This reaction was the most common reaction seen with the
(old) PABA sunscreens, which contributed to the popularity of the “PABAfree” label. After a while some patients with CIS may develop reactions to all
skin care products, a condition known as “status cosmeticus”, a term coined
by AA Fisher2, and is the most severe form of CIS.
 Reaction to sunscreen requiring UV exposure after application of sunscreen
o Photoallergic reactions: Rash looks no different from the rash due to allergic
contact dermatitis. Confined to the areas of exposure to both the allergen
and light, with possible spread to the immediate surrounding areas.
Sunscreens are the commonest cause of photoallergy in the United States.
o Phototoxic reactions: Rash is confined to the sun-exposed areas (usually the
face, the “V” of the upper chest, backs of the hands, and forearms, and
sparing of the upper eyelids, beneath the chin and behind the ears), the rash
is more painful than itchy
Conditions that mimic sunscreen allergy: Other photosensitive-like rashes
 Photosensitivity Drug reaction
 Solar urticaria
 Atopic dermatitis
 Polymorphous light eruption
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


Systemic lupus erythematosus
Seborrheic dermatitis
Rosacea
Ingredients in sunscreen causing adverse reactions include:
 Active chemical agents (absorbing the UV)
 Fragrances
 Preservatives: Methylisothiazolinone, Quaternium 15, parabens
 Irritants: Cinnamic acid compounds, Lactic acid, Urea, Lanoline (wool alcohol),
alcohols, alpha hydroxyl acids, and propylene / butylene glycol.
Prevalence of Contact dermatitis to sunscreen agents
The first commercial sunscreen was developed in 1928, but increased usage did not start
until in the 1980s following public health campaigns informing of the dangers of sun
exposure. The number of sunscreen products available has increased exponentially, and
includes occult sources such as moisturisers, hairsprays, shampoos, makeup, and even in
some clothing fabrics.
Contact allergy to UV filter was first published in the 1940s, but allergic contact dermatitis
was most commonly implicated to inactive ingredients in sunscreens in the 1960s. Paraamino-benzoic acid (PABA) was one of the first sunscreens to be introduced in the United
States, and sensitisation was documented as early as 1947. PABA causes allergic,
photoallergic and irritant dermatitis. Reports of these reactions steadily increased
throughout the 1960s and 1970s. This has led to their near removal from sunscreens, and
today PABA products are only rarely used in sunscreen formulations; and PABA-free
sunscreens are widely promoted. But like all other contact allergens, when their sensitising
potential becomes known and they lose popularity, it is only a matter of time before the
sensitising potential of their replacements become known.
The prevalence of adverse reactions to sunscreen is not known in the general population,
but in a patch test clinic the prevalence of allergy to the active sunscreen ingredient is
probably less than 1%. However, adverse reactions to sunscreens (all the ingredients
included) are not uncommon. One Australian study reported that 19% of adults complained
of some sort of adverse reactions to their sunscreen.
The prevalence of sunscreen sensitisation in individuals referred for evaluation of
photosensitivity is also very high. In a Photopatch test (application of chemicals to the back
for 48 hours and then irradiate the skin with UVA light after removal of the patch with the
chemicals) clinic in France, 15.4% of positive reactions were related to sunscreens, and 72%
were deemed relevant.
Fischer and Bergstrom found that only 5% of pharmaceutical customers complaining of
adverse reactions from sunscreens were allergic to active sunscreen ingredients, with most
other allergies detected to fragrances like Balsam of Peru.
It is important to realise that contact allergy also exists in very young children. When 85
healthy asymptomatic children (Denver, CO area) ages 6 months to 5 years were patch
tested with the 24 panel allergen T.R.U.E. TEST, 20 (24.5%) reacted to one or more allergens
(Bruckner et al 2000).
Risk Factors for Sunscreen Allergy
 Use of sunscreen products on damaged skin (active eczema)
 Pre-existing photodermatoses (sun-related skin conditions)
 Atopy
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 Outdoor occupation
Diagnosis of Sunscreen allergy
Allergic and photoallergic contact dermatitis is diagnosed with a patch test and a photopatch
test, respectively, whereas irritant and phototoxic contact dermatitis are clinical diagnoses
of exclusion.
A standard patch test with a battery of 60 allergens, which includes all the inactive
ingredients in the sunscreen, should always be done along with the “Sunscreen chemicals”.
The sunscreen chemicals are applied on the back in duplicate. At 48 hours the patches are
removed, and one of the sunscreen battery is irradiated with 5 KJoules and read in 30
minutes for photocontact urticaria and read again in 24 hrs. A positive reaction at the nonirradiated site, which is stronger at the irradiated site, is interpreted as a photo-augmented
allergic contact dermatitis. Equal positive at the irradiated and non-irradiated sites are
interpreted as allergic contact dermatitis.
Sunscreen Allergens
A case series report in the Australasian Journal of Dermatology (3) reported on their
experience with sunscreen allergy between 1992 and 1999 and also review the international
literature on sunscreen allergy. There were a total of 21 allergic reactions to sunscreen
chemicals observed in 19 patients over the 8 years. There were:
 9 positive photopatch reactions to oxybenzone,
 8 to butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane,
 3 to methoxycinnamate and
 1 to benzophenone.
 No positive reactions were observed to para aminobenzoic acid.
 Six patients also had positive patch tests to components of the sunscreen base.
In their experience, sunscreen chemicals are the most common cause of photoallergic
contact dermatitis.
In another study reporting on 7 years experiencing of photopatch testing with sunscreen
allergens in Sweden (Berne B), of 355 patients with suspected photosensitivity tested 7.9%
had an allergic reaction, and 80% of these were of photocontact origin. This is an important
point, since doing patch tests only (without photo testing) will miss the majority of cases of
sunscreen allergy. The allergens were:
 Benzophenone-3 (Eusolex 4360) was the most common allergen -16 reactions
o 15 photocontact allergic reaction
o 1 allergic contact reaction
 isopropyl dibenzoylmethane (Eusolex 8020) – 12 reactions
o 8 photocontact,
o 4 contact
 butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 – 6 reactions
o 6 photocontact reactions
 phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232) – 2 reactions
In that study, 1 case of contact urticaria from benzophenone-3 was accidentally found, this
suggests that Immediate-type testing for urticaria is useful.
PABA and Ester Derivatives
PABA was one of the first sunscreen agents to be used in the United States. One of the main
advantages of PABA is that it penetrates the horny layer of the skin and, binds to proteins in
the epidermis, which provides prolonged protection, even after swimming and showering.
One disadvantage was that photo-oxidation of PABA causes it to turn yellow, and this results
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in staining of clothes. However, the main reason for its loss in popularity was the increasing
numbers of reported irritant, allergic, and photoallergic reactions that it caused in the 1960s,
1970 and 1980s. The majority of the patients who claim to be “allergic” to PABA (and some
of the other sunscreens) actually have irritant reactions, especially when alcohol is used as
the vehicle.
The ester derivatives of PABA including glyceryl PABA, octyl dimethyl PABA (Padimate O),
dimethyl PABA (Padimate A), replaced the use of PABA in sunscreens following the reports
of allergy in 1960s to 1980s. However, all these derivatives have been reported to cause
adverse reactions as well, and most are no longer available for commercial use in many
countries. Because of problems with PABA formulations, manufacturers emphasized the
PABA-free claim, and several sunscreens are marketed as “hypoallergenic” because they are
PABA-free.
Benzophenones were first used in sunscreen products in the 1950s, and the first description
of a contact reaction to benzophenones in sunscreen products was published in 1972
(Ramsay DL). This chemical is probably one of the most common causes of photocontact
allergy. Benzophenones were named the American Contact Dermatitis Society’s Allergen of
the year for 2014. This was based on the fact that bezophenone-3 is the most common
sunscreen contact and photocontact allergen in North America, and also because of its
widespread use in cosmetics. Benzophenone-3 is used in the US more than all of the other
benzophenones combined. The most recent 10-year retrospective analysis of the North
American Contact Dermatitis Group data (Warshaw EM) showed that 70.2% of the positive
patch tests to sunscreen were due to benzophenone-3. It was also the leading cause of
sunscreen allergy in Australia (Nixon RL).
Benzophenone-3 seems to cause more photoallergic contact dermatitis than allergic contact
dermatitis. Therefore, if a photopatch test is not done (as well as the regular patch test), the
diagnosis will be missed.
Benzophenone-4 has been reported to cause all 4 types of contact dermatitis and it is
reported as one of the top 5 sunscreen allergen in several studies. In addition to causing
contact and photocontact delayed-type hypersensitivity reactions, benzophenones has been
reported to cause immediate-type hypersensitivity: photocontact urticaria (hives), contact
urticaria, and anaphylaxis.
For patch testing, a 10% oxybenzone concentration in petrolatum is used, and generally
serves as a marker to benzophenones.
Dibenzoylmethanes are UV absorbing chemicals widely used in continental Europe.
Numerous cases of photocontact allergy has been reported with 4-tert-butyl-4-methoxy
dibenzoylmethane or Avobenzone. In a recent survey of availability of UV filters in the UK,
the most frequently occurring UV filter was Avobenzone. The other sensitizer isopropyl
dibenzoylmethane (Eusolex 8020) has been withdrawn, but the number of reports of allergy
& photoallergy to Avobenzone is causing some authors to predict that a third “epidemic” of
sunscreen allergy to this agent, similar to those of PABA in the 1960s and benzophenones in
2014.
Cinnamates are group of chemicals used in flavourings, fragrances, and less frequently
sunscreens. In sunscreens they are often combined with benzophenones. They are often
used in sunscreens marketed as “waterproof’.
Contact urticaria from cinnamates used in other skin care product have been reported, but
not to sunscreens containing cinnamates.
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Salicylates were first used in cosmetics as Benzyl salicylates, and this was the first sunscreen
used in the United States in 1928. Currently octyl salicylate and homosalate are the major
salicylate component of sunscreen. Allergic contact dermatitis from salicylates have been
reported only rarely (Dromgoole SH).
Hypoallergenic sunscreen alternatives: Physical Blockers or Inorganic sunscreen
The only 2 physical sunscreen agents are Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. The physical
sunscreen agents include titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, separately or in combination.
They reflect the UV light, bouncing it away from the skin. Zinc oxide blocks (reflects) UVA I,
UVA II & UVB rays (320-400nm), and is therefore considered as a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
Titanium dioxide only blocks UVA II & UVB (320-340 nm wavelength). These agents have the
best safety profile of the choices currently available on the market. These agents have not
been reported to cause irritant, phototoxic, allergic, or photoallergic dermatitis, and may
even prevent photoallergic reactions to other chemical sunscreens. These mineral
sunscreens were traditionally very messy (and opaque), but the new advanced formulations
contain fine micro-pigments which are smoother, lighter and easier to blend into the skin.
Misleading Sunscreen Labels & the dynamic state of sunscreen allergens:
Reading sunscreen labels is not very easy as the list of ingredients can be very extensive, and
there are several synonyms for the known contact allergens.
Several sunscreen manufacturers use labels like “hypoallergenic”, “Allergy”, “Natural”, and
“sensitive” to mislead consumers into believing that their products are safe for patients with
known allergies. New allergens are constantly replacing older allergens in sunscreens.
Therefore, sunscreen manufacturers have to work very closely with the doctors who manage
patients with contact dermatitis. The Piz Buin story below highlights this point very well.
Piz Buin Allergy Sunscreen
Recently the healthcare company Johnson & Johnson changed the formula for its Piz Buin 1
Day Long suncream after more than 150 people told BBC Watchdog about allergic reactions.
The preservative known as MI (Methylisothiazolinone), which has been causing an epidemic
of contact allergy to several well-known cosmetics in Europe and in New Zealand, was found
to be the likely cause of reactions. This ingredient was removed and the new sunscreen,
which is labelled as “Piz Buin Allergy Sunscreen has several well-known contact allergens
(highlighted in bold letters below):
Ingredients of Piz Buin Allergy Sunscreens: Aqua, Octocrylene, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl
Salicylate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Silica, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Cyclohexasiloxane,
Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (nano), Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer,
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol
Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Cetyl Alcohol,
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower Extract, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Pentylene
Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Caprylyl Glycol,
Cyclopentasiloxane, Linseed Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-8 Laurate, Potassium Cetyl
Phosphate, Decyl Glucoside, Steareth-20, Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, Cetearyl Alcohol,
Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum.
From the ingredient listed above Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, and Butyl
Methoxydibenzoylmethane are sunscreen agents which have been reported to cause
allergic, photoallergic and irritant dermatitis in several case reports and larger studies. Also
fragrance is one of the commonest contact allergen found in cosmetics, and
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Phenoxyethanol, propylene glycol, and cetearyl alcohol are preservatives with which
commonly cause allergic contact dermatitis.
Other examples of misleading sunscreen labeling include:
 Sunsense Sensitive, which is free of chemical sunscreen agents but contains a wellknown preservative sensitizer, parabens.
 Neutrogena Pure and Free baby Sunscreen also has no chemical sunscreen agents,
but has the strong sensitizer methylisothiazolinone.
 Active Ingredients in Neutrogena Pure and Free baby sunscreen: Titanium Dioxide
(4.9%), Zinc Oxide (4.7%)
Inactive Ingredients: Alumina, Arachidyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Ascorbic Acid
(Vitamin C), Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Beeswax (Apis Mellifera), Behenyl Alcohol,
Benzyl Alcohol, BHT, Bisabolol (L-Alpha), Butylene Glycol, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Cetyl
Dimethicone, Dimethicone, Dimethicone PEG 8 Laurate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Licorice
Root), Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexl Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium
Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Methicone, Methylisothiazolinone,
Pantothenic Acid, PEG 100 Stearate, PEG 8, Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, Polyhydroxystearic
Acid, Polymethylmethacrylate, Polysorbate 60, Potassium Sorbate, Retinyl Acetate (Vitamin
A), Silica, Stearic Acid, Styrene Acrylates Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E),
Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Trisiloxane, Water, Xanthan Gum
“Hypoallergenic sunscreens”: Safer Sunscreens for allergic individuals or individuals who
want to reduce their chances of becoming allergic: Sunblockers Free of UV chemical filters
and reduced contact allergens
Sunscreens free of UV filter chemicals
Absolutely Natural Sunscreen (fragrance only possible allergen)
Aubrey Organics Natural Sunscreen
Ava Anderson Non-Toxic Sunscreen
Aveeno Baby Natural Protection Face Stick, SPF 50
Babo Botanicals Clear Zinc sunscreen
Badger Sunscreen
Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreen Sensitive
California baby
Caribbean Solutions Sunscreen
Elemental Herbs Sunscreen
Invisible ink – Zinc oxide (inert). Only possible sensitizer is phenoxyethanol
Juice Beauty Oil-Free Moisturizer, SPF 30
Loving Naturals sunscreen
MDSolar Sciences Mineral Crème sunscreen
Mexitan Tropical Sands sunscreen
Natural Instinct natural sunscreen
Soleo Organics natural sunscreen
Sunology Natural Sunscreen
Suntegrity Skincare natural Mineral sunscreen
Sunumbra natural Sunscreen
True natural All Natural Sunscreen
UVNatural Sunscreen
Vanicream Sunscreeen
WotNot sunscreen
Sunscreens free of UV chemical filters and low in allergenic allergens:
Blue Lizard baby, Australian sunscreen
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Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide (5%), Zinc Oxide (10%)
Inactive Ingredients: Beeswax, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenisen, Disodium
EDTA, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Hexyl Laurate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Methyl
Glucose Dioleate, Octododecyl Neopentanoate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate,
Propanediol, Purified Water, Sorbitan Oleate, Stearic Acid, Trimethylated Silica/Dimethicone, VP
Hexadecene Copolymer, Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, PEG 7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Tocopheryl
Acetate (Vitamin E).
Babo Botanicals Clear Zinc Sunscreen
Active Ingredients: Zinc Oxide (22.5%; Non-Nanoparticle)
Inactive Ingredients: Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice, Water, Camelia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract
(Certified Organic Ingredients), Glycerin, Caprylic Capric Triglyceride, Rosa Canina (Rose Hip) Fruit Oil
(Certified Organic Ingredients), Buriti (Mauritia Vinifera) Fruit Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed
Oil (Certified Organic Ingredients), Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Methylcellulose,
Stearic Acid, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil (Certified Organic Ingredients), Shea Butter (Certified Organic
Ingredients), Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Oil, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate,
Potassium Sorbate, Ethyhexyl Glycerin.
Vanicream sunscreen
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide (3%), Zinc Oxide (6%)
Inactive Ingredients: C20-40 Alcohols, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetyl PEG/PPG 10/1 Dimethicone,
Cocoglycerides, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Castor Oil,
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Magnesium Chloride, Octadecene, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate,
Pentylene Glycol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Purified Water, Silica, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Squalene,
Stearyl Dimethicone, Tridecyl Salicylate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10)
Natures gate Pure Mineral sunscreen
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide (8.3%), Zinc Oxide (2%)
Inactive Ingredients: Allantoin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter,
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl
Wheat Straw Glycosides, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Dehydroxanthan Gum,
Diisopropyl Adipate, Dimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Fruit Extract, Glycerin,
Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark
Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 80, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel
Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Silybum Marianum (Milk Thistle) Seed Extract,
Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Viola Tricolor (Wild Pansy) Extract, VP/Eicosene
Copolymer, Water.
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Sunscreen table
Type of UV Filter
Active Ingredient
Physical (sunblock)
Zinc Oxide
Physical (sunblock)
Titanium dioxide
Chemical absorber
Avobenzone
-Persol 1789
-Eusolex 9020
-Escalol 517
-Butyl
- Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Tinsorb S
-Bemotrizinol
-Anisotriazine
-Escalol S
- BEMT
Tinsorb M
-Methylene bis benzotriazolyl
- tetramethylbutylphenol
Mexoryl SX
- Ecamsule
Mexoryl XL
- Ecamsule
- Drometrizole..
Helioplex
(Avobenzone + Oxybenzone)
Octinoxate
- Octyl methoxycinnamate
- OMC
- EHCM
- Escalol 557
- Parsol MCX
- Eusolex 2292
- Tinsorb OMC
- Uvinol MC80
Cinoxate
- 2 ethoxymethyl pmethoxycinnamate
- Phiasol
- Give Tan
- Sundare
Octocrylene
- Uvinul N539T
- OCR
- Eusolex
Benzophenones:
Oxybenzone
- Benzophenone-3
- BP-3
- Uvinul M40
- Esolex 4360
- Escalol 567
Sulisobenzone
- Benzophenone-4
- BP4
Chemical
Chemical
Chemical
Chemical
Chemical
Chemical
Chemical
Chemical
Chemical
Chemical
Range of protection &
Function
UVA1, UVA2, & UVB
(broad spectrum)
UVA2 & UVB
Does not protect against
UVA1
Best UVA protection
(Absorbs full spectrum of
UVA)
Comment
AVA1, UVA2, & UVB1
New from German company
BASF
UVB1, UVA1 & UVA2
New from Germany
Fairly photostable
UVA1 & UVA2
UVA2
New from LaRoche
Photostable
Photostable
UVB & UVA1
Stable
Readily absorbed by the skin
and helps other ingredients to
be absorbed more readily.
Unstable
UVB
Stable
UVB & UVA2
Photostable
UVA2 & UVB
A penetration enhancer
Photostable
UVB & UVA2
Photostable
Photostable
Does not penetrate the skin
Photostable
Very widespread use
Very high rates of skin allergy
Very photounstable
Stabilized with addition of other
UV filters
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- Uvinul MS40
- Escalol 577
Dioxybenzone
- Benzophenone-8
Ensulizole
- Phenylbenzimiazole
- PBSA
- Eusolex
- Parasol HS
Octisalate
- Octyl salicylate
- Ethylhexyl salicylate
- EHS
- Escalol 587
Homosalate
- homomethyl sLICYLTE
- HMS
Aminobenzoic Acid
- PABA
Chemical
Chemical
Chemical
Chemical
Chemical
Chemical
Padimate O
- Octyldimethyl PABA
- OD PABA
- EHDP
- Escalol 507
UVB & UVA2
UVB & UVA2
Stable
UVB
Emollient & water resistant
properties
Unstable
UVB
Helps sunscreen to penetrate
the skin
UVB
Unstable
UVB
One of first active ingredient in
sunscreens
Banned in Europe & not used
much in any country
PABA derivative
References
(1) Fischer & Berystoim K. Evaluation of customers’ complaints about sunscreen cosmetics sold by the
Swedish pharmaceutical company Contact Dermatitis 1991:25:319-322.
(2) Fisher AA ‘Status cosmeticus’ : A cosmetic intolerance syndrome. Cutis 1990; 46: 109-10
(3) Berne B, Ross AM. 7 years experiencing of photopatch testing with sunscreen allergens in Sweden
Contact Dermatitis. 1998; 38(2):61-4
(4) Bruckner et al. Does Sensitisation to Contact Allergens Begin in Infancy? Pediatrics 2000; 105:1.e3.
(5) Cook, Natasha; Freeman, Susanne Report of 19 cases of photoallergic contact dermatitis to sunscreens
seen at the Skin and Cancer Foundation. Australasian Journal of Dermatology. 42(4):257-259,
November 2001.
(6) Dromgoole SH, et al. Sun screening agent intolerance: contact and photocontact sensitisation and
contact urticaria. J Am Acad Dermatol 1990; 22:1068-78
(7) Maibach HI, Lev-Tov. The sensitive Skin Syndrome. Indian J Dermatol 2012; 57:419-23
(8) Nixon RL. Contact Dermatitis to sunscreens. Dermatitis 2012;23:140-141
(9) Ramsay DL, Cohen HJ, et al. Allergic reaction to benziphenones. Simultaneous occurrence of urticarial
and contact sensitivities. Arch Dermatol 1972; 105:906-8
(10) Suppa M, Argenziano et al. Selective
sunscreen application on nevi: frequency and
determinants of a wrong sun-protective behaviour. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venerol
2014;28(3):348-354
(11) Stander S et al. Putative neuronal mechanisms of sensitive skin. Exp Dermatol. 2009;18:417-23
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(12) Warshaw EM, Wang MZ, Maibach HI, et al. Patch test reactions associated with sunscreen products and
the importance of testing to an expanded series: retrospective analysis of North American Contact
Dermatitis Group data 2001 to 2010. Dermatitis 2013;24(4):176-182
(13) Fowler JF, Fisher AA. Fisher’s Contact Dermatitis. 2008. 6th Edition. Pg 70.
(14) Escalas-Taberner J et al. Sensitive skin: A complex Syndrome. Actas Dermosifiliogr. 2011;102(8):563--571
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