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Author: Florian Holzer, author, journalist, and restaurant critic
Status as at January 2016
Vienna’s restaurant scene
It would be all too easy to believe that the Viennese have nothing to do all day but eat, with
such an astonishingly wide variety of food on offer in the Austrian capital, and eateries
seemingly on every corner.
Naturally, the starring role in Vienna’s culture of enjoyment is reserved for Viennese cuisine – an
appetizing mixture of culinary traditions from the nations of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire
that, over the centuries, has become a distinctive combination of these in its own right. A touch of
the Alps, a healthy portion of Hungary, Bohemia, Moravia, and northern Italy, a dash of Croatia and
Galicia, a bit of Yiddish, a little Bavarian, all rounded off with inspiration from Styria and Slovenia.
Many of the dishes are braised, boiled, or stewed, a few are fried and of course there are plenty of
breadcrumbed delicacies – Vienna’s favorite way to prepare food: almost everything under the sun,
whether it’s fish, meat, or vegetables, has probably at one time been covered in a crisp, golden,
undulating mantel of flour, egg, and white breadcrumbs. According to various surveys, the Wiener
Schnitzel, originally a breaded veal escalope – though nowadays the less costly pork variety is also
often served – is far and away Austria’s favorite dish.
But it goes without saying that the capital’s Beisln and Gasthäuser (pubs and inns), and
restaurants – known and loved for upholding traditional Viennese cuisine – serve more than just
food coated in breadcrumbs. Establishments such as Pfarrwirt, Gasthaus Wolf, Servitenwirt and
the chic Kussmaul on Spittelberg are attempting to introduce some modern elements into the
classic mix. At Freyenstein, Jakob Keineder cooks up creative takes on traditional recipes inspired
by his mentor Meinrad Neunkirchner. Eckel and Schwarzen Kameel both serve outstanding
Viennese food, while Blauensteiner, Grünauer, Gelbmann’s Gaststube and 3 Hacken are all
bastions of authentic cuisine. And if anyone still needs convincing that Viennese cuisine can meet
the highest gastronomic standards even in a chain of restaurants, they should make a beeline for
one of Mario Plachutta’s establishments, and enjoy one of the thousands of portions of Tafelspitz
(tender boiled beef), Schulterscherzl (flat iron steak), or Wiener Schnitzel they serve every day.
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The culinary avant-garde
With such a strong, well-established and creative mainstream dining culture, avant-garde and
haute cuisine face some pretty stiff competition in Vienna – but they are alive and well,
spearheaded by Steirereck, widely recognized as the best restaurant in Austria. The UK’s
Restaurant Magazine 2015 ranks it the 15th best restaurant in the world. Starting life more than 40
years ago as a corner tavern, over the decades Steirereck has gone from strength to strength,
living through nouvelle cuisine before becoming one of the pioneers of the new regional focus in
culinary innovation, under Heinz Reitbauer senior. Since the restaurant moved to its current
location in Stadtpark, Heinz Reitbauer junior has developed a thoroughly unique brand of cookery
that showcases unusual vegetables and herbs to create astonishing flavors.
Young chef Silvio Nickol has also enjoyed success at the restaurant in the Palais Coburg luxury
hotel with his creative, meticulous neo-French cuisine, as has Walter Bauer in his tiny gourmet
paradise under centuries-old vaulted ceilings. Markus Mraz continues to break boundaries with his
avant-garde creations. A newcomer among Vienna’s top chefs, Konstantin Filippou opened his
elegant restaurant with simple decor in a quieter part of the first district, serving some of the most
modern and elaborate cuisine in the country – and quickly impressed all of the restaurant
guides.No-one should miss Petz im Gusshaus. Run by Christian Petz – Witzigmann protégé,
culinary visionary, haute cuisine dropout and critic, this restaurant’s Mediterranean, Viennese and
French-inspired fusion cuisine has gone down a storm with patrons since it opened in January
2015.
International cuisine
Viennese cuisine is not the only style of cookery on the menu in the Austrian capital – a lively
international restaurant scene is full of culinary traditions that have their own distinctive identity, or
are too exotic to be subsumed into the broader church of Viennese cuisine. Italian food is far and
away the most popular foreign food among the Viennese. Over 500 restaurants in Vienna serve up
the powerful flavors and delightfully uncomplicated classics of Italian fare: from simple panini and
Friulian delicacies in Cantina Osteria Friulana, to an Italian meal of several courses in the exclusive
Fabios.
Just as surprising is the slow but steady progress made by French cuisine, which had until recently
found it surprisingly difficult to gain a foothold. Choice examples are the high quality brasserie food
served at Le Salzgries, and the more down-to-earth bistro dishes at Beaulieu. In contrast, the
Asian restaurant scene is thriving. ON, ON Market, Chinabar an der Wien and Goldene Zeiten all
showcase the endless diversity of Chinese regional cookery, while an astonishing variety of
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Japanese cuisine and cookery approaches can be found at Benkei, the refined Unkai in the Grand
Hotel, hypermodern Shiki, hip urban restaurant Mochi, Karma Ramen and Sakai. But it’s the
Vietnamese restaurant scene that is truly buzzing at the moment. The best are Pho Sai Gon, Good
Morning Vietnam, Le Viet and Vietthao.
And there is a huge diversity of other options too: Israeli cuisine at Neni and a branch of Miznon
recently opened by star Tel Aviv-based chef Eyal Shani , Indonesian, Nepalese, Tibetan,
Caribbean, Georgian, Polish, Bulgarian, Kurdish, and Afghan cuisine – there have even been
Uyghur and Kyrgyz restaurants in Vienna. Perhaps the biggest surprise is that there is fantastic
British and Irish food to be found in the Austrian capital, above all at Charlie P’s, a lively pub with
attached dining room, and farther away from the centre of town at O’Connor’s Old Oak, or Lane
and Merriman’s where chef David Gannon not only bakes his own English bread but also uses the
best ingredients out there in his tireless quest to elevate fish and chips to the top table..
The city’s palate
Vienna’s café and restaurant scene is the city’s palate and a sounding board for the latest trends –
which it does not always react to immediately, but perhaps more reliably for taking its time.
Sustainability is used as an umbrella term to describe the seemingly irresistible trend towards
consumers making more conscious and ethical choices. In a city like Vienna, where it seems that
the focus is first and foremost on enjoyment, it might sound contradictory to talk about
sustainability – but that is far from the case.
Motto am Fluss, for example, is one of the hippest and most talked-about places in the whole city.
At this fashionable restaurant located right on the Danube Canal, with a sun terrace and attached
café, all of the food served is made using almost exclusively organic ingredients. At Manameierei,
a highly popular breakfast joint in a picture-postcard location on the fringes of the Vienna Woods,
the majority of products come from the local area. The concept café by Vienna’s trendiest bakery,
Joseph, focuses on organic and regional slow food products. And regional products and producers
are at the heart of the elegant contemporary cuisine available at the Brasserie & Bakery in The
Guesthouse hotel, designed by Sir Terence Conran. Meanwhile, Heuer am Karlsplatz is all about
getting the best out of the ingredients available, a number of which are in fact grown in raised beds
directly outside the restaurant.
Change and modernization are also afoot in the world of confectionery and sweet dishes, even
though people long believed that the Bohemian desserts perfected in Vienna could never be
improved on. A new generation is putting a twist on the classics. Viola Bachmayr-Heyda at the
Joseph Bistro works almost exclusively with Austrian products, baking tarts with mirabelle plums
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rather than lemons. Ice cream flavored with mountain herbs or lychee, rose and raspberry can be
found at at Gregors Konditorei, and made using organic milk and elderflower, asparagus, or goat’s
cheese at Eis-Greissler, completely free of artificial preservatives or coloring. And at Veganista,
two young women are proving that fantastic ice cream can be made without milk or cream.
Culinary hotspots
Modern, pioneering ideas have the potential to make people sit up and pay attention, and in many
cases have proved to be the inspiration behind some of the capital’s most popular culinary
hotspots – of which there are certainly plenty. This keeps the whole city guessing where the next
one will pop up. The Naschmarkt’s famous atmosphere, combined with its attractive mix of Art
Nouveau market buildings and contemporary bars and cafés is no longer a secret. And Yppenplatz
in Ottakring, originally a much more alternative destination, has become well known to the
mainstream eating and drinking public with its many wine bars, restaurants and cafés. Opened in
2001, MuseumsQuartier is not only one of the ten biggest cultural centers in the world – it’s also a
large hub for events and restaurants, and combined with the neighboring Spittelberg area is
considered Vienna’s biggest sidewalk café. The Karmelitermarkt in the traditionally Jewish heart of
the second district, is another great location, especially at the weekend.
But what’s next? Where in the city will the next wave of hip eateries spring up? One hot favorite is
the new business university campus next to the Messe Wien convention center, where eight new
designer cafés and restaurants opened in the space of just one week in fall 2013. The quiet streets
of Margareten, Vienna’s fifth district, which until now have lived in the shadow of the Naschmarkt
and the established scene surrounding Freihausgasse, are also a possibility. Vorgartenmarkt and
Volkertmarkt, both in the second district, are already showing early signs of blossoming, as is the
Meidlinger Markt in the twelfth. Mariahilfer Strasse, Vienna’s longest shopping street located
directly between the lively sixth and seventh districts, has an extended pedestrian zone that is
starting redefining the local bar and restaurant scene – as a barometer of evolving culinary
trends. .
Brunching out
Right across the city a new trend is making waves: breakfast. The number of cool breakfast cafés
has grown exponentially in recent years, with the pace of growth so fast that people might ask
whether the Viennese had simply opted to skip the most important meal of the day before they
started springing up. Of course that isn’t true, but eating out for breakfast is the in thing to do right
now, with delicacies like eggs benedict, homemade wild berry jam, organic yoghurt and fair trade
coffee all on the menu.
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Breakfast at Meierei Stadtpark, attached to Steirereck, is so popular that a reservation is essential.
Space can also be tight in the Bakery at the hip Hotel Daniel, chic Kussmaul on Spittelberg as well
as the stunning Palm House in the Burggarten. Thanks to its central location and fantastic service,
the Guesthouse Brasserie & Bakery has also quickly become a very popular breakfast venue. At
Freyung 4 patrons can start the day in the courtyard of a Baroque city Palais. Vienna coffeehouse
doyens Querfeld operates a beautiful pavilion in Schönbrunn Palace gardens and as a brunch
location by the name of Jausenstation. And the delicacies on offer at Ansari include a traditional
Georgian breakfast. Taken over by a popular German TV chef in fall, the Salonplafond restaurant
at the MAK has gone all out to make the first meal of the day the best meal of the day, while the
breakfasts at the pared down canteen-style Liebe in der Marktwirtschaft have captured the hearts
of brunch fans the length and breadth of the city. Even restaurants that until now have been
regarded as evening hotspots, like upscale Italian Fabios, have started serving elaborate city
breakfasts.
A quick snack
Obviously there might not be much time left for lunch after such a leisurely breakfast, but Vienna
has plenty of great options for those in search of a quick snack. Top of the list are the city’s
legendary sausage stands, a Viennese institution and the places to sample a “Heisser” – a hot
Burenwurst or Klobasse (similar to a Polish sausage), or a slice of Leberkäse – a kind of baked
bologna meat loaf – enjoy a pair of frankfurters (the name Viennese give Wiener sausages), or of
course savor the incomparable Käsekrainer, a sausage stuffed with cheese. There are 70 sausage
stands in Vienna altogether and the city centre still boasts the greatest concentration of them. As
well as these traditional stands, a large number of kebab stands have also sprung up in recent
years.
Another option is to pick up some classic open sandwiches from Trzesniewski – traditional
Viennese take-away. Or try one of the fabulous sandwiches at Schwarzen Kameel: their display
cabinet offers 20 different varieties, and the line of people waiting can get very long around
midday. Anyone that prefers Italian should head to the hip Pizzeria Disco Volante for original
Neapolitan pizza, or to 1500 Foodmakers for dishes with a more Italian-American twist. Wulfisch
serves fish rolls just like they do in Hamburg, and at Verde 1080 guests can pick up the best takeaway burger in the city – to enjoy with one of 400 specially selected beers from microbreweries
around the world. Cornwall Pasty Pirates has authentic West Country pies, Gorilla Kitchen sells
delicious Burritos, hip and happening o.m.k is home to the best takeaway sushi and the finest
pulled pork sandwiches in the city, Hildegard Wurst specializes in New York style hot dogs while
Marco Simoni’s Bastei is the place for gourmet sandwiches that wouldn’t be out of place in Paris.
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A glass of wine
So there is lots to eat in Vienna – but more than enough to drink too: a glass of good wine is a
quintessential part of the Viennese lifestyle. Great quality and a good selection await in absolutely
every bar, café and restaurant. The Wein & Co Bar presents an especially broad selection, while
wine bar Unger und Klein has a special atmosphere, as does their new branch, glazed floor-toceiling, in the entrance area of the Hochhaus on Herrengasse in the first district. Visitors can enjoy
a drink as they soak up a fabulous view of the city on the top floor of the 25hours hotel, or
alternatively the Bloom terrace bar at Hotel Lamee. The craft beer scene is blossoming a little late
in Vienna, but at the 1516 pub patrons can drink one of the avant-garde beers brewed on-site. And
for those who want to end the day at the smallest, most beautiful and unruly bar in the city, there is
only one place to go: Loos Bar. It’s a must for anyone who wants to discover what really makes
Vienna tick.
Addresses:
Pfarrwirt, Pfarrplatz 5, 1190 Vienna, www.pfarrplatz.at
Eckel, Sieveringer Strasse 46, 1190 Vienna, www.restauranteckel.at
Servitenwirt, Servitengasse 7, 1090 Vienna, www.servitenwirt.at
Freyenstein, Thimiggasse 11, 1180 Vienna, www.freyenstein.at
Kussmaul, Spittelberggasse 12, 1070 Vienna, www.kussmaul.at
Petz im Gusshaus, Gusshausstrasse 23, 1040 Vienna, www.gusshaus.at
Gasthaus Wolf, Rienösslgasse 17, 1040 Vienna, www.gasthauswolf.at
Gmoakeller, Am Heumarkt 25, 1030 Vienna, www.gmoakeller.at
Blauensteiner, Josefstädter Strasse 4, 1080 Vienna, www.gastwirtschaft-blauensteiner.at
Grünauer, Herrmanngasse 32, 1070 Vienna, www.gasthaus-gruenauer.com
Plachutta, Wollzeile 38, 1010 Vienna, www.plachutta.at
Zu den 3 Hacken, Singerstrasse 28, 1010 Vienna, www.zuden3hacken.at
Zum Schwarzen Kameel, Bognergasse 5, 1010 Vienna, www.kameel.at
Steirereck, Am Heumarkt 2a, 1030 Vienna, www.steirereck.at
Silvio Nickol im Palais Coburg, Coburgbastei 4, 1010 Vienna, www.palais-coburg.at
Konstantin Filippou, Dominikanerbastei 17, 1010 Vienna, www.konstantinfilippou.com
Mraz & Sohn, Wallensteinstrasse 59, 1200 Vienna, www.mrazundsohn.at
Restaurant Bauer, Sonnenfelsgasse 17, 1010 Vienna, Tel. +43-1-512 98 71
Sakai, Florianigasse 36, 1080 Vienna, www.sakai.co.at
Unkai, Kärntner Ring 9, 1010 Vienna, www.unkai.at
Benkei, Ungargasse 6, 1030 Vienna, tel. +43-1-718 18 88
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Mochi, Praterstrasse 15, 1020 Vienna, www.mochi.at
ON, Wehrgasse 8, 1050 Vienna, www.restaurant-on.at
ON Market, Linke Wienzeile 36, 1060 Vienna, www.on-market.at
Goldene Zeiten, Dr. Karl-Lueger-Platz 5, 1010 Vienna, www.goldenezeiten.at
Pho Sai Gon, Hegelgasse 17, 1010 Vienna, www.phosaigon.at
Good Morning Vietnam, Sechsschimmelgasse 16, 1090 Vienna, www.goodmorningvietnam.at
Le Viet, Stubenbastei 12, 1010 Vienna, www.leviet.at
Vietthao, Friedrichstrasse 2, 1010 Vienna, tel. +43-1-585 20 31
Neni, Naschmarkt 510, 1060 Vienna, www.neni.at
Cantina Osteria Friulana, Bartensteingasse 3, 1010 Vienna, www.cantinafriulana.at
Fabios, Tuchlauben 4-6, 1010 Vienna, www.fabios.at
Le Salzgries Paris, Marc-Aurel-Strasse 6, 1010 Vienna, www.le-salzgries.at
Beaulieu, Herrengasse 14/18, 1010 Vienna, www.beaulieu-wien.at
Charlie P’s, Währinger Strasse 3, 1090 Vienna, www.charlieps.at
O’Connor’s Old Oak, Rennweg 95, 1030 Vienna, www.oconnors.at
Motto am Fluss, Franz-Josefs-Kai/Schwedenplatz, 1010 Vienna, www.motto.at/mottoamfluss
Joseph Bistro, Landstrasser Hauptstrasse 4, 1030 Vienna, www.joseph.co.at
Heuer am Karlsplatz, Treitlstrasse 2, 1040 Vienna, www.heuer-amkarlsplatz.com
The Guesthouse Brasserie & Bakery, Führichgasse 10, 1010 Vienna, www.theguesthouse.at
Veganista, Neustiftgasse 23/3, 1070 Vienna, www.veganista.at
Eis-Greissler, Rotenturmstrasse 14, 1010 Vienna, www.eis-greissler.at
Gregors Konditorei, Schönbrunner Strasse 42, 1050 Vienna, www.gregors-konditorei.at
Stadtpark Meierei, Am Heumarkt 2a, 1030 Vienna, www.steirereck.at
Bakery im Hotel Daniel, Landstrasser Gürtel 5, 1030 Vienna, www.hoteldaniel.com
Labstelle, Lugeck 6, 1010 Vienna, www.labstelle.at
Ansari, Praterstr. 15, 1020 Vienna, www.cafeansari.at
Landtmann’s Jausenstation, Kronprinzengarten Schönbrunn, 1130 Vienna, www.landtmannjausenstation.at
Palmenhaus, Burggarten 1, 1010 Vienna, www.palmenhaus.at
Freyung 4, Freyung 4, 1010 Vienna, www.freyung4.at
1500 Foodmakers, Lerchenfelder Strasse 1-3, 1080 Vienna, www.25hours-hotels.com/wien
Disco Volante, Gumpendorfer Strasse 98, 1060 Vienna, www.disco-volante.at
Paninoteca, Margaretenstrasse 22, 1040 Vienna, www.paninoteca.at
Trzesniewski, Dorotheergasse 1, 1010 Vienna, www.trzesniewski.at
Verde 1080, Josefstädter Strasse 27, 1080 Vienna, www.verde1080.at
Wulfisch, Haidgasse 5, 1020 Vienna, www.wulfisch.at
Cornwall Pasty Pirates, Zollergasse 2, 1070 Vienna, www.pastypirates.at
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Gorilla Kitchen, Ziegelofengasse 18, 1050 Vienna, www.facebook.com/gorillakitchen2013
o.m.k, Praterstrasse 16, 1020 Vienna, www.o-m-k.at
Hildegard Wurst, Operngasse 23, 1040 Vienna, www.hildegardwurst.at
Marco Simonis Bastei, Dominikanerbastei 10, 1010 Vienna, www.marcosimonis.com
1516 Brewing Company, Schwarzenbergstrasse 2, 1010 Vienna, www.1516brewingcompany.com
Unger und Klein, Gölsdorfgasse 2, 1010 Vienna, www.ungerundklein.at
Unger und Klein im Hochhaus, Herrengasse 6-8, 1010 Vienna, www.imhochhaus.at
Bloom, Rotenturmstrasse 15, 1010 Vienna, www.cafebarbloom.com
Wein & Co-Bar, Jasomirgottstrasse 3-5, 1010 Vienna, www.weinco.at
Loos-Bar, Kärntner Durchgang 10, 1010 Vienna, www.loosbar.at
Gelbmanns Gaststube, Wilhelminenstrasse 62, 1160 Vienna, www.gelbmanns.at
Chinabar an der Wien, Hamburger Strasse 2, 1050 Vienna, www.chinabaranderwien.at
Shiki, Krugerstrasse 3, 1010 Vienna, www.shiki.at
Karma Ramen, Hamburger Strasse 2A, 1050 Vienna, www.karmaramen.at
Miznon, Schulerstrasse 4, 1010 Vienna, www.facebook.com/miznonvienna
Lane and Merriman’s, Spitalgasse 3, 1090 Vienna, www.laneandmerrimans.com
Manameierei, Exelbergstrasse 32, 1170 Vienna, www.manameierei.com
Salonplafond, Stubenring 5, 1010 Vienna, www.salonplafond.wien
Die Liebe in der Marktwirtschaft, Siebensterngasse 21, 1070 Vienna, www.dieliebe.wien
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