INTRODUCTION TO
Lecturer: Maryam Tamizifar
Office: 257 Everson hall
Email: mtamizifar@ucdavis.edu
Office Hours: Tuesdays 4-5 pm, by smartsite, or
any convenient time
Lectures
I.
A.
B.
C.
Introduction (7)
Textile Materials and Their Performance
Fiber Classification and Theory
Fiber Identification
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II.
A.
B.
Textile Fiber Production, Processing, Properties (6)
Natural Fibers (Protein and Cellulosic)
Manufactured Fibers (Regenerated Natural and Synthetic)
10-21
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III.
A.
B.
Yarns (3)
Yarn Formation and Structure
Texturing and Blending
22-25
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IV.
A.
B.
C.
Fabrication
Weaving and Woven Structures
Knitting and Knitted Structures
Nonwoven, and Composite Fabrics
26-29
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V.
A.
B.
C.
Finishing and Coloration (5)
Physical and Chemical Finishes
Color, Dyes, Dyeing and Printing
Textile Labeling

Chap.1, 7,8
30-35, 9
3
Laboratory
I. Textile Structure Identification
II. Fiber Identification
III. Yarn Identification
IV. Fabric Construction Identification
V. Finishing Identification
VI. Dyed and Printed Fabrics Identification
4
Lecture 1:
Textile Materials and Their Performance
5
Outline:
Introduction
 Definition of widely-used Terms
 Textile Performances
 General Features of Fabrics
 Fabricated Textile Products
 Fiber Morphology
 Fiber Macrostructure

TEXTILES or TEXTILE MATERIALS
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
Textile materials are fibers, yarns, fabrics, and
products made from fabrics which retain more
or less completely the strength, flexibility, and
other typical properties of original fiber or
filaments.
ASTM (D123-88b), “Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles”
Textile Structure

Fabric,

Yarn,

Fiber,

Colorant & Chemicals
7
Textile Performance
Performance (Serviceability): Measure of a textile’s
ability to meet consumer’s needs (major requirements that fabrics
generally meet),

Aesthetics: Attractiveness or appearance of a textile
product

Durability: How a product withstands use; length of
time the product is suitable for the use for which it
was purchased
Performance Cont.
Comfort: How a textile product affects heat, air, and
moisture transfer, interaction of body and textile
product.
 Maintenance (Appearance retention): How the
product maintains its original appearance during use
and care*.
 Health/safety/protection: its ability to protect the
body and environment from a variety of harmful
substances.

*Care: Treatment required to maintain a textile
product’s original appearance
Fabrics Definition & Components

A planar structure consisting of yarns or fibers
General Features:
1. Fiber
2. Yarn
3. Fabric Construction
4. Interstices (voids)
5. Colorant & Chemicals
1. Fiber
11




Any substance, natural or manufactured, which is
characterized by having a length at least 100 times
its diameter or width and can be spun into yarns, or
made into a fabric.
Generally the ratio is 1000:1, and fiber diameter
varies from 11-50 micrometers
Continuous fiber (FILAMENT): Silk and synthetic fibers
Short fiber (STAPLE): Cotton, wool, cut lengths of
filament
Structural & Cross-sectional shapes of Fibers
12
2. Yarn

An assemblage of fibers that is twisted or laid together so as
to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile
fabric, Spun, Filament, Compound and Fancy Yarn.
13
3. Fabric Construction
• Arrangement of yarns or fibers within a fabric;
– interlacing (woven fabrics)
– interlooping (knitted fabrics)
– bonding the fibers or filaments (nonwovens)
4. Interstices (Voids) - Spaces in fabrics
5. Colorant & Chemicals


Colorants:
 Dyes (Mostly soluble)
 Pigments (Insoluble)
Chemicals:
 Finishing agents
 Acids and bases
 Surfactants
15
Fabricated Textile Products

Apparel,

Interior Textiles,

Household Textiles, and Institutional Textiles,

Industrial Textiles and Consumer Textiles,
16
Classification of Fibers
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
Natural Fibers:
 Vegetable fibers:
 Seed (Cotton, Kapok, etc)
 Bast (Flax , Ramie, Hemp, Jute, etc.)
 Leaf (sisal, abaca or manila, etc)
 Animal fibers: Silk, Wool, Animal hair (Alpaca,
Camel, Mohair, Cashmere)
 Mineral fiber: Asbestos
Classification of Fibers, cont.
18

Man-made Fibers:
 Inorganic
Fibers: Glass , ceramic, metal
 Regenerated
Fiber: Rayon, Polynosic, Tencel,
Lyocell, Casein, etc.
 Semi-Synthetic
 Synthetic
fibers: Cellulose acetate
Fibers: Polyamide (Nylon), Polyester,
Acrylic, Modacrylic, Aramides, Polyethylene,
Polypropylene, Polyurethane (Spandex) ….
Fiber Morphology
19
Morphology: Study of size, shape, and structure
of a material and the relationships between
aspects of structure.
Includes:
 Macrostructure
 Microstructure
 Submicroscopic Structure
 Fine Structure

Macrostructure
Observable features of fiber structure;




LENGTH:
 Staple: 3/4 - 18 inches (or 2- 46 cm)
 Filament: infinite length
 Fibers shorter than 15 mm are classified as nontextile fibers
SIZE: Expressed in terms of diameter or linear density, or crosssectional area
 The size of Natural fibers is given as diameter (D), in micrometer
(μm), usually D is 11-70 μm, cotton(16-21), wool(17-40)
 Fibers exceeding D>50 μm are classified as nontextile fibers
The finer the natural fiber size, the higher the quality of the fiber
Silk and manufactured fibers are given in denier or tex units.
Denier:

The weight in grams of 9,000 meters of any linear material,

one denier = one gram of 9,000 meters of fiber,
Tex:

The weight in grams of 1,000 meters of any linear material, or
1/9 of 1 denier,





Coarse
Medium
Fine fibers
Micro fiber
Ultra-fine Micro fiber
6.3-25 denier or 0.70-2.78 tex
2.2-6.3 denier or 0.24-0.70 tex
<2.2 denier or 0.24 tex
<1 denier or 0.11 tex
<0.3 denier or 0.033 tex
Increase in denier or tex numbers increase in fiber size
22
Macrostructure Cont.
CRIMP : refers to waves, bends, twists or curls along the fiber length
▫ Linear, 2- or 3-dimensional , inherent or latent crimp.
▫ Crimp can increase the binding force between fibers.
COLOR:
▫ Natural fibers are white or off-white, tan or brown
▫ Manufactured fibers generally are white or off-white, also changeable