circa 2000bc Introduction A panpipe is an ancient musical instrument based on the principle of the closed tube, consisting usually of five or more pipes of gradually increasing length (and, at times, girth). The pan flute has long been popular as a folk instrument, and is considered the first mouth organ, ancestor of both the pipe organ and the harmonica. The pan flute is named for its association with the rustic Greek god Pan. The pipes of the pan flute are typically made from bamboo or giant cane; other materials used include wood, plastic, and metal. Some indigenous peoples make them out of vegetable tubes or bones. In my case I used PVC and Copper. The reason I choose a panpipe was because I love the eerie and beautiful sound of the pipes. Also I fell in love with the sound when I was in Peru and it just brings me back there when I hear the sound. South American panpipes bear many names: Siku, Semi Toyo, Zampona, Antara, Malta, and Chuli, just to name a few. Materials and tools used The following is a list of materials that I used for the construction of the Panpipe: Copper piping PVC piping Insulating Tape Coins Cardboard Keyboard to help with tuning Markers Sandpaper Sharp Scissors Copper Cutters Pen Ruler Hacksaw Tips / ideas I discovered a few tips from various websites such as: Tubes are better too long than too short The longer the pipe, the lower the pitch The shorter the pipe, the higher the pitch Ideally have the external diameters between 1.2 & 2.2cms If you are using wood, the harder and tighter grained the wood , the better Romanian panpipes are the best kind for playing western style music, as they have a larger range. South American and Asian panpipes are more for their own ethnic music. Closed pipes are easier to sound than open pipes Closed pipes sound an octave lower than open pipes Constructing the Instrument The first pipe I made was constructed with PVC. The following is a list of steps I took in the construction process. 1. First I measured the desired lengths of PVC pipe. The lengths of these I got from various websites. This is discussed further on in the report. 2. Then I cut them to size with a hacksaw. This was a bit more difficult than I thought as it was very tricky to cut it evenly across the top. - Trying my best to cut it to shape. 3. I then filed down the edges at the top using sandpaper, so the area where you place your mouth was smooth. 4. Then I covered the base using 20 cent pieces and secured them with the insulating tape. 5. The next step was to assemble the pipes in order of length and stick them together. For this I used the insulating tape again. - On them I marked the pipe no and the note they played And now they were ready to play. (I wanted to make open-ended pipes with the bottom oblique or ‘v’ shaped but I couldn’t do this without the use of power tools) The sound the pipe produced was quite low so I decided to use another material to get a clean sharper sound. I choose copper. The construction of the copper panpipe was done in the exact same way as the PVC. The only difference was how I cut it. I couldn’t use a hacksaw so I used copper cutters instead (shown below). This proved very easy and gave me a very even finish. The tops still needed to be sanded as before. The sound from the copper pipes was much brighter and the copper resonated a lot more than the PVC. I then decided to make an 8 tube Panpipe using copper again. I wanted to raise the pitch and through research found this can be achieved by lengthening the tube. This was made in a similar fashion to the previous pipe but instead of using coins I used cardboard cut-outs (shown below). It was a bit more difficult to ensure no air escaped at the bottom with the cardboard. The coins I used earlier were a perfect fit and I didn’t have to worry about air leakage once the tape was on. To block the air I needed a lot of insulating tape, it took a while but I managed to block the air coming out. The Technical Side Copper and PVC Panpipe using 5 Tubes I based my 5 pipe instrument on the C Major Pentatonic Scale as shown below. To achieve the notes I cut the lengths of pipe to the following specifications. Cms 15.4 13.6 12.0 9.8 8.7 Note C D E G A - I got these figures from a website where the person had already measured and tested the lengths to achieve the notes. When I had the lengths cut to these specifications, I doubled checked them by playing the note on a keyboard I had at home. Some researchers say a ratio of between 10 to 1 and 15 to 1 for length to bore works well. Good sounding pipes can diverge from this value and still sound well, which is a good thing because I had to work with the diameters of the material I had. Copper Panpipe using 8 Tubes I wanted to build a bigger Panpipe this time with longer lengths and bigger bore widths in the hope of getting a richer sound. So I decided to build an 8 octave Panpipe with a full scale on it – Do, Re, Mi, Fa, So, La, Ti, Do. I based my pipe lengths on the following calculations which I got from a website. Do = L (length) - Choose and arbitrary length eg. 21 which I choose. Re = L X .9 - My length 18.9 Mi = L X .8 - My length 16.8 Fa= L X .73 - My length 15.33 Sol = L X .66 - My length 13.86 La = L X .6 - My length 12.6 Ti = L X .53 - My length 11.13 Do’= L X .5 - My length 10.5 Tuning In the traditional South American style, pipes are fine-tuned to correct pitch by placing small pebbles or dry corn kernels into the bottom of the pipes. Contemporary makers of curved Romanian-style panpipes use wax (commonly beeswax) to tune new instruments. This beeswax is pressed into the tube bases using a dowel which will fit into the tube in question. The wax needs to be pressed firmly home; a little moisture at the dowel end will prevent the wax from sticking to it. Where a tube has been tuned too high, a little wax can be removed using a dowel with an end shaped into a "cutting edge" which will remove wax when it is inserted into the tube and twisted gently. Corks and rubber stoppers are also used, and are easier to quickly tune pipes. My tuning consisted of blowing across the pipe, hearing the note and then playing it on a keyboard to make sure it was right. A crude method compared to above but it worked! Always leave tuning until after any bevelling or shaping of the tube tops (as such modifications will alter any earlier tuning). The following is a table of lengths for professional tuning sticks: Tube G1 A1 B1 C2 D2 E2 F#2 G2 A2 B2 C3 D3 E3 F#3 G3 A3 B3 C4 D4 E4 F#4 G4 Length-(cm)L 28 25 23 21 19 18 16 15 14 13 12 12 11 11 10 10 10 9 9 9 9 9 Diameter-(mm) 23 22 21 20 19.5 19 18.5 18 17.5 17 16.5 16 15.5 15 14.5 14 13.5 13 13 12.5 12.5 12.5 Acoustic Properties The acoustic properties of the pan flute are in the Helmholtz oscillator class of closed tube acoustics. It shares acoustic properties with other instruments, such as the Ocarina and Gemshorn. Generation of a fundamental frequency is produced by blowing across the open end of the tube, thus creating a Von Karman vortex street by means of a siphon effect at the top of the tube. The tuned resonator body then supports this frequency. An overblown harmonic register is near a 12th above the fundamental in cylindrical tubes, but can approach an octave jump (8th) if a decreasing taper is used. The formula for calculating the length of a pan flute tube is TL = (S/F) / 4 (the "theoretical length" [TL] equals the speed of sound [S], divided by the desired frequency in hertz [F], that quantity divided by 4). Because of a property of compression within the tube, the length must be a little shorter to correct flat pitch.. multiply the bore diameter by 0.82 and subtract this value from the tube length. This compensates for internal compression slowing frequency and the lips partially covering the voicing. Only tiny adjustments will be needed then to adjust fundamental pitch for air density and temperature. (Ref/"Music, Physics and Engineering" By Harry F. Olson, "Secrets of the Flute" by Lew Paxton Price and "Horns, Strings and Harmony" By Arthur H. Benade) Acousticians say that the sounding length of a stopped tube (such as a panpipe pipe) is 1/4 the wavelength of the sound produced. In actual practice, the open end of the pipe "loads" the resonating chamber. The following is formula produced from simple tests using Lucite tubes of various lengths Sounding length = 2.4123*Wavelength, Wavelength = speed of sound / frequency Given a sea level speed of sound of 345 meters per second, this produces the following graph. The red line is an idealized curve of all notes between F#3 (261.63) and A#6 (1864.66). The dark blue indicates values physically determined from cut Lucite tubes, and the green line are the intervals from Henry Thomas's Bull Doze Blues, which is a early blues recording featuring the rare American panpipe, the Quills. Note Frequency (Hz) Calculated wave Pipe length length (mm) (mm) Pipe width (mm) F#3/Gb3 185 1864.9 449.87 40.90 G3 196 1760.2 424.62 38.60 G#3/Ab3 207.65 1661.4 400.80 36.44 A3 220 1568.2 378.30 34.39 A#3/Bb3 233.08 1480.2 357.07 32.46 B3 246.94 1397.1 337.03 30.64 C4 261.63 1318.7 318.11 28.92 C#4/Db4 277.18 1244.7 300.26 27.30 D4 293.66 1174.8 283.41 25.76 D#4/Eb4 311.13 1108.9 267.50 24.32 E4 329.63 1046.6 252.48 22.95 This table is used to calculate the values for the idealized curve shown in the graph above. F4 349.23 987.9 238.31 21.66 F#4/Gb4 369.99 932.5 224.94 20.45 G4 392 880.1 212.31 19.30 G#4/Ab4 415.3 830.7 200.40 18.22 A4 440 784.1 189.15 17.20 A#4/Bb4 466.16 740.1 178.54 16.23 B4 493.88 698.6 168.51 15.32 C5 523.25 659.3 159.06 14.46 C#5/Db5 554.37 622.3 150.13 13.65 D5 587.33 587.4 141.70 12.88 D#5/Eb5 622.25 554.4 133.75 12.16 E5 659.26 523.3 126.24 11.48 F5 698.46 493.9 119.16 10.83 F#5/Gb5 739.99 466.2 112.47 10.22 G5 783.99 440.1 106.16 9.65 G#5/Ab5 830.61 415.4 100.20 9.11 A5 880 392.0 94.58 8.60 A#5/Bb5 932.33 370.0 89.27 8.12 B5 987.77 349.3 84.26 7.66 C6 1046.5 329.7 79.53 7.23 C#6/Db6 1108.73 311.2 75.06 6.82 D6 1174.66 293.7 70.85 6.44 D#6/Eb6 1244.51 277.2 66.87 6.08 E6 1318.51 261.7 63.12 5.74 F6 1396.91 247.0 59.58 5.42 F#6/Gb6 1479.98 233.1 56.23 5.11 G6 1567.98 220.0 53.08 4.83 G#6/Ab6 1661.22 207.7 50.10 4.55 A6 1760 196.0 47.29 4.30 A#6/Bb6 1864.66 185.0 44.63 4.06 Playing the Panpipes The pan flute is played by blowing horizontally across the open end against the sharp inner edge of the pipes. By overblowing, that is, increasing the pressure of breath and tension of lips, odd harmonics (notes whose frequencies are odd-number multiples of the fundamental), near a 12th in cylindrical tubes, may also be produced. The Romanian panflute has the pipes arranged in a curved array, enabling the player to easily reach all the notes by simply swiveling their head. These instruments can also play all the sharps and flats, with a special technique of both tilting the pipes and jaw movement, thus reducing the size of the pipe's opening and producing a change in pitch. An advanced player can play any scale and in any key. There are two styles of vibrato possible, hand vibrato and breath vibrato. In hand vibrato, the player applies a gentle motion to one end of the panflute (usually the high end) in much the same way as the violin vibrato is achieved by rocking the hand from the wrist. Breath vibrato is the same technique used by players of the flute and other woodwinds by use of the player's diaphragm. Points to Note: When playing a narrow tube will sound "reedy", while a wide one will sound "flutey". When playing purse your lips and add tension to increase air speed and decrease the size of air stream to increase your octave. To play a lower note, slide your chin to the end of the panpipe with the longest pipes. To play higher notes, slide the pipe across your chin to the smallest pipes. Sharps and flats can be played by tilting the pipes, but this should only be attempted after all whole notes are mastered. If you're a beginner, try an 8-tube one. Closed pipes are easier to sound than open pipes Here is Mum playing the PVC Panpipe Here I am playing the copper Panpipe Conclusion Firstly I thoroughly enjoyed making this instrument. I had a lot of fun constructing it and even more fun playing it with my family. I would have liked to have more time to explore more materials and their different sounds and to experiment with really long lengths and varying diameters. Maybe if I get some time over Christmas I could construct some more tubes. So what I have learned from this project? Well the first thing was it’s not easy to build and tune your own instrument. It was a challenge at times to get the pipe lengths correct and to have them even at the top. Also playing it proved a bit more difficult than I thought. At first when I played it, it made just a whisper sound. The more I practiced the better I got, as is true for all instruments. Getting the right technique is very difficult because to obtain a correct note you need to really concentrate on pursing your lips and applying pressure in the right area. I found if I blew down just after the opening it gave me the desired sound. This project definitely inspired me to explore more ideas for other instruments. Maybe if I have time I might try to make some wind chimes with the left-over pipe ends. Again if I have time, I hope to decorate it with my pictures from South America. References Books Sound-producing instruments in oceania – Hans Fischer Gravicords, Whirlies & Pyrophones, Experimental Musical Instruments – Bart Hopkin with the Foreword by Tom Waits Experiment Musical Instruments Journals in the Library – Volume VII and IX. Weblinks www.wikipedia.com www.panflutejedi.com/david-pighills-tutorial.html - How to make your own www.sohl.com/Acoustics%20of%20Pan%20Pipes/Pan%20Pipes.htm - Practical Acoustics and the pan Pipes. www.philtulga.com/Panpipes.html - How to make a 5 Pipe Panpipe www.teachervision.fen.com/tv/printables/Bose_Master_7.pdf - Making Panpipes www.britarch.ac.uk/yac/leaderdocs/leaders2007/make_panpipes.doc - How to make Panpipes. www.phys.unsw.edu.au/jw/woodwind.html - How do woodwind instrument work www.phys.unsw.edu.au/jw/pipes.html - Pipes and Harmonics