Metal Detecting:
Search with a metal detector, something for you?
five wounds of Christ
Metal detecting , an exciting hobby!
Those who have never worked with a metal detector is difficult to imagine what is going is
underground and where. Someone who agrees to go with a more experienced amateur metal
detector will soon with big eyes watching what's become removed from the soil.
WTF - OMG ALL ROMAN COINS !!!
It's not just a little swaying back and forth with a metal detector and dig up the loot with a beep. It
goes much further and how far it goes depends on you. Are you going to delve into the local history,
compare old cards with new cards? Then you can go to places where nice finds in the ground in no
time. No history lover? The beaches, meadows and fields are especially loved by amateur metal
detector.
What can you find with a metal detector?
Depending on where one is looking for it derives from the Old Dutch soil buckles, coins, weights,
buttons, coins, thimbles and all kinds of jewelry from the ground. Mantel pins, very old axes, daggers
are some examples. You will be amazed by how much has been found. Even items that you will not
recognize but still have a story. By letting determine (examined by experts) the object you come to
know about the subject more. You'll find a lot of coins from all periods. This can vary from a 1 cent
from 1920, for example, Celtic coins
The objects can be of different metals such as gold, silver, bronze, tin, lead, brass, aluminum, iron.
gold
silver
bronze
tin Viking
lead
brass
The objects may be contemporaneous, these often finds that one will find on a recreational area or
beach, but are made finds of hundreds and hundreds of years old. Places where people for years and
years living Finds of 1100 years BC is no exception. Sometimes, even so old that the object depending
on the metal is difficult to recognize in the course of time. So it is not always. There are coins,
weights, belt buckles, pins, jewelry, etc. to the top if they are not there yet but have a long dating
back hundreds of years. Coin is that even to read.
Now you might think: 'touches the bottom eventually anyway once empty? As long as the bottom
anyway visited by someone with a metal detector and there is nothing more to be found? Absolutely
not! For various reasons, and that will become clear later.
Come up from the ground that are fun for their own collection but there are also finds up for an
archaeologist, historian or museums have huge value. Then it is not always to the metal. It does not
have to be. No gold There are even last series of silver coins (there were 25?) Found yet, packed
together, total value € 10,000! Not because of the silver, but because of the unique historical value.
Experienced people who use a metal detector and special finds have made up their findings
sometimes (temporarily) available to a museum. Some museums buy them. Others sell their finds
back to collectors. There are occasionally made special finds that are unique, so unique that it
reaches the newspapers. sometimes it goes all over the world.
Now that may sound as if the bottom is littered with all kinds of valuables. Metal detective is a
fantastic hobby and everyone has their own interest in finding objects.
There are people who specialize in the search for specific finds. Finds from certain periods in history
(roman, Celtic, WWII). There are people who are searching the beach for lost jewelry and coins that
people have lost the last summer days, there are people who search on military. These include
personal belongings of soldiers from the first and especially the second world war. There are people
who study old maps, books and end up in places where there used trade routes are located. On
those routes have lost a lot of stuff, hiding from robbers or robbers who hide their loot temporarily
but never return. They're still in the ground.
Metal Detector Accessories ( WHAT DO YOU NEED )
When you get your first metal detector all of a sudden you realize you need other metal detecting
accessories.
You need a digger of some sort, ground cloth and a pouch to put the trash and treasures that you
find in. You don't need to buy all of this stuff now, but something to think about.
Here is a list and photos of the items we have used and continue to use while land or beach hunting.
Digging Tools
Get you a digging tool You need some sort of digging tool to dig with. We started out with just a basic
garden trowel, and then graduated to a hunting knife that we bought at an Army Navy Store.
Now days they have some pretty fancy digging tools. Some have a saw like action on one side for
getting at tree roots, and even have markings on them in inches to let you know how deep you're
digging.
Ground Cloths
Homemade ground cloth If you plan on digging dirt, then a ground cloth can be a very helpful item in
recovering your target. Where do you get a ground cloth? Make one. We used a pair of old jeans cut
them above the thigh and above the knee, then cut it along the seam.
The jean material has proven to be very durable too, as you can see. We stapled on two pieces of
wood to the cloth to make dumping the dirt easier, but make sure the staples are small enough that
your detector doesn't detect them.
ROMAN COINS
Use a ground cloth Here's how you use it. When you cut a flap in the grass, and start scooping out
dirt, plop it on your ground cloth that is laying close by. Then scan your dirt to see if you got the
target, or if it's still in the hole. Once you locate the target, pick up your ground cloth carefully from
the sides with the dirt still on it, and pour the dirt back into the hole, press the grass flap back down,
and step on it to secure it. How simple!
And you don't leave any telltale signs of you having been there either, no dirty grass! Once you start
using one, it's hard to go without one. If you don't use one, your target will likely fall out of your dirt,
and then you will have to locate it again in the surrounding grass or leaves.
Pocket Probe
Garrett Pocket Probe The only reason we have this Garrett probe is because we won it at a club
hunt. It has come in handy especially in the woods, where you have to deal with a lot of roots. Also
it's nice to use it in places where you don't want to dig a hole like on a well-manicured lawn.
Just put the probe next to the ground to find the target, and then pop the coin out with a blunt
edged screwdriver. It locates targets to several inches down, so you'll know exactly where to dig.
There is a spot for headphones on it, like the small kind. But who wants to be switching headphones
all the time. It runs on a 9 volt battery.
Using the pocket probe It’s difficult to pinpoint items deep in the ground unless you have a hole big
enough to fit it in. We tried it at the beach once, and got sand in the button you push to turn it on. It
got stuck and we had to take it apart and clean it out. This unit makes a pretty loud sound, so it was
strange using it when other people were around. It draws more attention to what you're doing.
Whites Electronics sells an probe called a Bulls eye pin pointer. You can actually even use an item
that construction workers use to find nails behind sheetrock, called a stud finder.
Heavy Duty Beach Sand Scoop
Dry Sand Scoop We bought this beach sand scoop on Ebay for $18.00. We like it and use it alot. It has
held up pretty good no matter what we do to it. Carol likes the comfortable plastic grip on it, yet she
still wears a glove on her hand to keep from getting a blister by the metal piece on top.
We prefer these round holes in the scoop, versus the sand scoops that have square holes. We have
two of these scoops now, one for me and one for her.
Sifting in the sun set We originally started out with a dry sand scoop that had a 3 foot handle on it,
but the handle bent. I cut the bent piece off but it is too heavy to use as a dry beach sand scoop so
it's sitting in the storage.
We tried making us a scoop out of a large grain scoop we got at a feed store by drilling some holes in
it, but it didn't last very long. Also make sure the beach scoop you buy is stainless steel, not
galvanized.
Treasure Hunting Pouches
treasure hunting pouches guess we need to say something here about what we've been using to put
our trash and treasures in when we go out treasure hunting. We started out using a carpenter's 2
pocket pouch or apron. They are really cheap, just a couple bucks at the hardware store, and they tie
around your waist.
Then we kind of graduated to fanny packs, which seems to be our favorite choice because they zip
up. Several times we've been fortunate enough to find some camouflage hunting pouches in the
Sports Dept. at Walmart. Several times in the woods we have just used the pockets on our
camouflage pants.
Also, if we know we are going to a beach that is pretty well trashed, we take along some plastic
grocery bags to drop the big trash and aluminum cans in to take out with us, then if you get stopped
by cops or someone questions what you're doing, you can show them how much trash you picked
up. They like that.
Metal Detecting Headphones
Maz Big Blues head phones Here's an item we forgot to mention. Headphones are a must!
Sometimes when you buy a metal detector the dealer will throw a pair of headphones in with it, but
sometimes not. If you ask, they just may do it.
We've used all kinds of headphones, some are expensive, like the Jolly Roger made by Detector Pro.
Whites also have exclusive headphones. But you can easily get some starter headphones at Radio
Shack for about $15.00.
Make sure they have volume control, and stereo would be nice. Our favorites headphones are called
The Big Blues, made in England by Maz Detectors. The Big Blues are soundproof and well worth the
60 bucks.
Flashlights or Headlamps
Headlamps Once you get out to hunt and start finding good stuff, you're not going to want to leave
once it starts getting dark, especially in the summer. So get yourself a headlamp and some
flashlights. There are some small flashlights that you can clip on to your ballcap or shirt.
They have some headlamps that are waterproof, like the larger one in the picture, but they tend to
get heavy after a while. The smaller one is an LED headlamp and it shines a blue light, so you can't
really see that good with it, but the batteries last a long time. It also has different blinks that you
could use to signal your hunting buddy.
Magnifying Glass or Loupe
Lighted magnifying glass and loupe Besides all of the above, here's is some additional stuff you'll
eventually need once you start finding stuff. First of all when you start locating those old coins, you
got to have a magnifying glass or loupe to check it out.
Any more magnified than that, and you won't be able to tell what it is that you found.
Plastic Containers for Finds
Assorted plastic containers Then after you check it out, you need some kind of containers to keep all
your treasure finds in. These plastic containers here are used for fishing lures. The small gray
container is double sided, and we take it with us on the hunts.
These plastic containers come in all different sizes at Walmart and they are cheap, so go pick one
out. We get a new one every year to keep our finds in. They have slots you can adjust to fit to the
size of your finds.
Batteries and Battery Charger
Also, last but not least, keep a good supply of batteries with you. We started out using regular AA's
and then invested in some Nickel Metal Hydride batteries from Radio Shack and a battery charger.
They lasted us a couple of years, and now were back to using Energizers AA's again. You can get a 30
pack at Home Depot for $15.00. There's nothing worse than getting all the way out to the field and
having your batteries die.
Getting The Most From ( Online Map ) Researching
where to dig.
Research is the single most significant aspect to being a
success full treasure finder !!!!!!!
ROMAN OIL LAMP
One of the biggest challenges that most metal detectors come across is finding new locations to
hunt. I myself do a fair amount of research, going over old maps, online recon, and a lot of foot work.
Finding new places to hunt is not that hard, you just have to put all the pieces of the puzzle together.
The World Wide Web, better known as the Internet, is changing the way we experience our
treasure hunting. Being able to search for sites, from the comfort of our favorite chair.
The old method we would spread out that old battered, coffee stained street map and look for
schools, city parks that we haven’t hunted lately. The new and improved method involves sitting at
the computer, viewing aerial photos, then zooming in to get a close-up look at potential sites. Many
of these online mapping sites, allow you to view street level pictures from satellite images, so you
can view possible sites and the landscape around the site, long before you head out to the location.
Giving you the heads up, you can tell whether the layout is rocky, grassy, hilly, or wooded, and then
find out how good it may be for treasure hunting.
old maps good to use
This aerial view technique is a handy tool, for metal detectorists, it can allow you to spot those
vacant lots, forgotten hiking trails, old home sites, and property lines that you would otherwise miss.
Google Maps is a great site for some up to date map data, and they are easy to use
Do your research !!!!!!!!!!
http://www.historicmapworks.com/
1) Search for your town, choose desired map.
2) Select "Overlay This Map" , then click "Historic Earth Basic/Free" on right.
3) Navigate the map as you would on Google Maps, but control the transparency of the historic map
with the Opacity toggle on right.
4) Toggle between the standard view, hybrid view, or Satellite photo view as needed.
more to know……..About this great hobby
For thousands of years, man has used metal objects and lost in the area now known as the
Netherlands. The northern half of our country is rich find places, due to excavated mounds, and the
southern half carries interesting traces of some four hundred years of Roman occupation.
In itself is reason enough to look what the lost metal is left. But the post-Roman and Merovingian
period is characterized by interesting metal objects, often funerary equipment, including beautifully
decorated cloak pins, hair needles, rings, daggers etc..
Also from the late Middle Ages, many artefacts due to mutual scheming, robber barons, wars
between small princes, dukes, bishops (!) Etcetera. Throughout the ages, we see the archaeological
finds how the weapons evolve, through the crossbow, the musket, the musket, the blunderbuss and
beyond.
For the detector amateur fertile periods, the times were the major cities were preparing themselves
as superpowers and wrested himself to the power of the aristocracy. That this was accompanied by
violent clashes should be clear. Meanwhile, city manure (with many a lost coin) as compost over then
sprinkled fields .... Each skirmish, every battle, the Eighty Years' War, the French occupation, and of
course as a big win the Second World War have tons of material added to the soil archive. And
modern man has still not unlearned; still come daily coins, buttons, rings, pendants, necklaces,
earrings and bracelets in the soil, often in recreational places such as beaches and playgrounds.
How GET all this metal in the soil ??????
Partly intentional: Roman and Merovingian grave goods and offerings. Fearing buried capital as coins,
jewellery, silverware. Fearing burial equipment of a deserter. Partly by accident: Lost jewellery and
money, lost weapons during battles off sliding rings while swimming, smashed chains while frolicking
.. And then out of laziness: waste, munitions debris, projectiles. A good amateur detector is designed
to work as much as possible, taking into account the above causes.
Operation of the detector amateur.
A seasoned amateur detector identifies what to expect, given the history of this area. Finds a ground
for In addition, he tries to imagine how the loss of the metal objects can be. Gone exactly Example: A
castle siege; where would the besieging army to save his camp? Outside of fire, within sight of the
castle, possibly camouflaged by trees and rolling terrain. Another example: A burial of military
equipment; which buries a soldier deserting his bags? Out of sight of everyone, often in wooded
area, preferably with a tree easily recognizable or hill, to find if he changes his mind ... if that tree is
still alive, his business, he is more than fifty years old and thus a fat boy! A skilled amateur can be
also send by example shards or remnants of earthenware pipes in a field; pipes represent a great
opportunity for old coins (bucks). This focused approach takes the experienced amateur many times
more than the newcomer who haphazardly walking with his detector over the first best site to wave.
The soil archive.
All that is hidden in the soil is called the soil archive. For the archaeologist is where and how the
object is more important than the object itself, because important conclusions can be drawn from.
The detector amateur is more about collecting interesting and sometimes valuable items. Many
official archaeologist thinks detector amateurs from the soil archive should stay away because so
disturb the soil archive. But the amateur detector must have the already disturbed upper 30cm,
where every year the team of farmers' Harms is going through, or ejected from the ground on a
construction site. In any case it is not the detector amateur that the soil archive disrupts the
contrary, without the amateur would be many objects remain undetected and thus lost forever along
with the construction debris, or in the top layer of a field accelerated fall prey to corrosion by
exposure to oxygen and eutrophication. Partly due to the work of the association detector DDA
archaeology seems prepared to adjust his views on the detector amateur. The crowning glory of this
association would be that the amateur is taken by the archaeology seriously and is activated as an
information source for the archaeologist. A concentration of metal finds, after all, may be a reason
for archaeology on site to do an extensive excavation and as read before it is swallowed up by
residential areas, railways and highways. The soil archive
The Amateur "Detector Amateur."
For an amateur detector is very attractive to be a good association. He serves as the common
interest, meet fellow amateurs on club days, may determine to his discoveries receives club
magazines, enjoy discounts at some detector suppliers, and so on. An association that I decided to
recommend to the DDA, partly because of the efforts that this organization is making to get the
official archaeology. On good terms Their bi-monthly club magazine is worth gold for a detector
amateur.
Modern detection technique.
All of the above musings would be fruitless if we do not have resources to detect. Actual metal in the
soil Modern technology makes it possible to detect a coin. (Penny size) up to 30 cm depth with a
lightweight detector A military helmet of up to 100 cm., So dig! There are many different detectors,
with very different prices and features. It would be dumb luck, they then immediately chooses the
most optimal from a layman. Our expertise is your choice much easier and safer. If you know a bit of
what you want, then we have the best for you detector.
CHOOSE THE Detector YOU WANT TO Buy
(There is NO BEST metal detector.)
That said, the best metal detector is the one you'll be able to use properly. Although it doesn't take a
rocket scientist to operate a metal detector, in order to use one successfully, you should be
absolutely sure you are going to buy it from a reputable dealer who has a showroom to demonstrate
the products and does no shady deals in parking lots or parks. This is the only way to make sure you
get the right machine for you and that you will have personal support whenever you need it.
So let Big Valley Metal Detectors help you to choose the best metal detector to meet your personal
needs and budget. After I got the above question numerous times I decided to add a 'Best Detectors'
page as a guideline, which helps all who visit my site avoid mistakes in choices brought on by the
voluminous amount of information and opinion on the internet. Yes, I have my opinions, but those
are based on my experience as a detectors and a multi-line dealer.
Below are general purpose metal detectors. There are many more, and if I have not mentioned the
one you are interested in, it is not necessarily because it is no good. More than likely I just decided to
keep this page from attaining a daunting length. Also, this is one of the last pages to be updated on a
regular basis, as I spend more time with my customers in person, and the web really does come last.
Just give me a call and I'll give you my honest assessment if you don't see what you are interested in.
Brands TO PICK ;
Coin and Relic Detector Adventurer 5500
Coin and Relic Detector Challenger
Coin and Relic Detector Commando
Coin and Relic Detector Discovery 1000
Coin and Relic Detector Discovery 1100
Coin and Relic Detector Discovery 2000
Coin and Relic Detector Discovery 2200
Coin and Relic Detector Discovery 3300
Coin and Relic Detector Elite 2200
Coin and Relic Detector Fast Tracker
Coin and Relic Detector Fortune Hunter
Coin and Relic Detector Gold
Coin and Relic Detector Gold Digger
Coin and Relic Detector Land Ranger
Coin and Relic Detector Land Star
Coin and Relic Detector Legacy 1500
Coin and Relic Detector Legacy 2500
Coin and Relic Detector Legacy 3500
Coin and Relic Detector Lone Star
Coin and Relic Detector Outback
Coin and Relic Detector Pilot
Coin and Relic Detector Pioneer 101
Coin and Relic Detector Pioneer 202
Coin and Relic Detector Pioneer 505
Coin and Relic Detector Pioneer EX
Coin and Relic Detector Platinum
Coin and Relic Detector Prospector
Coin and Relic Detector Quick Draw II
Coin and Relic Detector Quick Silver
Coin and Relic Detector Sharp Shooter II
Coin and Relic Detector Time Ranger
Coin and Relic Detector Titan 1000
Coin and Relic Detector Titan 2000
Coin and Relic Detector Titanium Camo
Coin and Relic Detector Tracker ID
Coin and Relic Detector Tracker II
Coin and Relic Detector Tracker IV
Coin and Relic Detector VLF
Coin and Relic Detector XJ9
Coin and Relic Detector Newforce CS1220R
Coin and Relic Detector Newforce CS1220XD
Coin and Relic Detector Newforce CS2M
Coin and Relic Detector Newforce CS2MX
Coin and Relic Detector Newforce CS5MX
Coin and Relic Detector Newforce CS660
Coin and Relic Detector Newforce CS6PI
Coin and Relic Detector Newforce CS7UMD
Coin and Relic Detector Newforce CS9000HPX
Coin and Relic Detector Newforce CS990XD
Coin and Relic Detector Newforce R1
VLF Beach Detector Headhunter Diver
VLF Beach Detector Headhunter Pirate
Coin and Relic Detector Headhunter Pirate Pro
Pulse Induction Beach Detector Headhunter Pulse
VLF Beach Detector Headhunter Wader
Coin and Relic Detector 1212x
Coin and Relic Detector 1225x
Coin and Relic Detector 1236 x2
Coin and Relic Detector 1266X
Coin and Relic Detector 1270
VLF Beach Detector 1280x Aquanaut
Coin and Relic Detector Coin Strike
VLF Beach Detector CZ 20
VLF Beach Detector CZ 21
Coin and Relic Detector CZ 3D
Coin and Relic Detector CZ 5
Coin and Relic Detector CZ 6
Coin and Relic Detector CZ 70 Pro
Coin and Relic Detector CZ 7a Pro
Coin and Relic Detector F-70
Coin and Relic Detector F-75
Coin and Relic Detector F2
Coin and Relic Detector F4
Coin and Relic Detector F5
Nugget Detector Gold Bug
Nugget Detector Gold Bug
Nugget Detector Gold Bug 2
Nugget Detector Gold Bug DP
Nugget Detector Gold Bug Pro
Nugget Detector Gold Strike
Coin and Relic Detector ID Edge
Coin and Relic Detector ID Excel
Pulse Induction Beach Detector Impulse
Industrial Detector M-66
Industrial Detector M-97
Coin and Relic Detector Ace 150
Coin and Relic Detector Ace 250
Coin and Relic Detector Ace 300
Coin and Relic Detector Ace 350
Nugget Detector AT Gold
VLF Beach Detector AT PRO
Nugget Detector ATX
Coin and Relic Detector EuroACE
Coin and Relic Detector Freedom Ace Plus
Coin and Relic Detector Grand Master Hunter CXIII
Coin and Relic Detector GTA 350A
Coin and Relic Detector GTA 500
Coin and Relic Detector GTAx 1250
Coin and Relic Detector GTAx 400
Coin and Relic Detector GTAx 550
Coin and Relic Detector GTAx 750
Coin and Relic Detector GTI 2500
Coin and Relic Detector GTI 1500
Coin and Relic Detector GTP 1350
Pulse Induction Beach Detector Infinium LS
Coin and Relic Detector Master Hunter CX Plus
Coin and Relic Detector Predator Series
Nugget Detector Scorpion Gold Stinger
Pulse Induction Beach Detector Sea Hunter Mark II
Coin and Relic Detector Treasure Ace 100
Coin and Relic Detector CTX 3030
Coin and Relic Detector E-TRAC
Nugget Detector Eureka Gold
VLF Beach Detector Excalibur 1000
VLF Beach Detector Excalibur 800
VLF Beach Detector Excalibur II
Coin and Relic Detector Explorer II
Coin and Relic Detector Explorer SE
Coin and Relic Detector Explorer XS
Nugget Detector Golden Hawk
Nugget Detector GP 3000
Nugget Detector GP Extreme
Nugget Detector GPX 4800
Nugget Detector GPX 5000
Nugget Detector GPX-4000
Nugget Detector GPX-4500
Coin and Relic Detector Musketeer
Coin and Relic Detector Quattro MP
Coin and Relic Detector Safari
Nugget Detector SD 2100v2
Nugget Detector SD 2200v2
Coin and Relic Detector Sovereign Elite
Coin and Relic Detector Sovereign GT
Coin and Relic Detector Sovereign XS-2a Pro
Coin and Relic Detector X-Terra 30
Coin and Relic Detector X-Terra 50
Coin and Relic Detector X-Terra 70
Nugget Detector XT 17000
Nugget Detector XT 18000
Coin and Relic Detector Xterra 305
Coin and Relic Detector Xterra 505
Coin and Relic Detector Xterra 705
Nugget Detector Black Hawk
Coin and Relic Detector Cavefinder
Coin and Relic Detector Evolution
Coin and Relic Detector eXp 4000
Coin and Relic Detector eXp 5000
Coin and Relic Detector FS-Thermoscan
Coin and Relic Detector Future I-160
Coin and Relic Detector Gems
Coin and Relic Detector Reflexion
Coin and Relic Detector Rover C
Coin and Relic Detector Rover C II
Coin and Relic Detector Rover Deluxe
Coin and Relic Detector Waterfinder
Other Companies
Coin and Relic Detector 6 function metal detector from HF
Coin and Relic Detector Accurate Locators - Zond 12e
Coin and Relic Detector Accurate Locators USA Runabout
Pulse Induction Beach Detector Aquastar II
VLF Beach Detector Aquavision Pro
Coin and Relic Detector Aurora Micro Pulse Wrist
Coin and Relic Detector Barska BE11640
Coin and Relic Detector Cobra Beach Magnet
VLF Beach Detector Cobra Hybrid Wader
VLF Beach Detector Cobra Wader
Coin and Relic Detector Compass Metal Detectors
Nugget Detector Deep Tech Vista Gold
Coin and Relic Detector Detech EDS
VLF Beach Detector Gold Digger MD-3080
Coin and Relic Detector Golden Mask 1+
Coin and Relic Detector Golden Mask 4
Coin and Relic Detector Ground Hawk
Pulse Induction Beach Detector JW Fisher Pulse 8X Pro
Coin and Relic Detector Laser Hawkeye
Coin and Relic Detector Maxkon
Coin and Relic Detector MP3 Digital
Coin and Relic Detector Nautilus DMC 2B
Coin and Relic Detector Nautilus DMC 2BA
Coin and Relic Detector Nautilus DMC 4
Coin and Relic Detector Nautilus DMC-IIB
Coin and Relic Detector Nokta Golden King DPR Plus
Coin and Relic Detector Nokta Golden King NGR
Coin and Relic Detector Nokta Golden Sense
Coin and Relic Detector Nokta Velox One
Coin and Relic Detector Relco TX-70
Coin and Relic Detector Seben Extreme
Coin and Relic Detector Sharper Image TSI-11
Coin and Relic Detector Sharper Image TSI-44
Coin and Relic Detector Titan 1000XD
Coin and Relic Detector Titan 2000XD
Coin and Relic Detector Titan 3000XD
Coin and Relic Detector Titan 9000
Coin and Relic Detector Treasure Hunter 3019
Coin and Relic Detector Treasure Hunter 3030
Coin and Relic Detector Treasure Hunter Voyager
Coin and Relic Detector Treasure Hunter XJ9-3050
Coin and Relic Detector Troy Shadow X2
Coin and Relic Detector Troy Shadow X3
Coin and Relic Detector Troy Shadow X5
VLF Beach Detector Viper Trident
Coin and Relic Detector Wilson Coin Select
Pin pointers
Pinpointer Automax Precision v2
Pinpointer Automax Precision v4
Pinpointer Bounty Hunter Pinpointer
Pinpointer Depth Master Super Probe
Pinpointer Detectorpro Pistol Probe
Pinpointer Falcon Gold Probe MD20
Pinpointer Garrett Pocket Probe
Pinpointer Garrett Pro Pointer
Pinpointer Minelab Pro-Find 25 Pinpointer
Pinpointer Nokta RS Pinpointer
Pinpointer Pocket UniProbe
Pinpointer Sherlock Electronic Probe
Pinpointer Sun Ray X-1 Probe
Pinpointer Tinytec Deluxe
Pinpointer Tinytec Ultra Deluxe
Pinpointer Treasure Mate Pinpointer
Pinpointer Vibra-Quatic 2 Pinpointer
Pinpointer Vibraprobe 560
Pinpointer Whites Bullseye
Teknetics
Coin and Relic Detector Alpha 2000
Coin and Relic Detector Delta 4000
Coin and Relic Detector EuroTek
Coin and Relic Detector EuroTek Pro
Coin and Relic Detector G2
Coin and Relic Detector Gamma 6000
Coin and Relic Detector Omega 8000
Coin and Relic Detector T2
Coin and Relic Detector T2 Ltd
Tesoro
Coin and Relic Detector Bandido II uMax
Coin and Relic Detector Cibola
Coin and Relic Detector Compadre
Coin and Relic Detector Conquistador uMAX
Coin and Relic Detector Cortes
Coin and Relic Detector Cutlass II umax
Coin and Relic Detector DeLeon
Coin and Relic Detector Diablo uMAX
Coin and Relic Detector Eldorado 1st. gen.
Coin and Relic Detector Euro Sabre
Coin and Relic Detector Golden Sabre
Coin and Relic Detector Golden Sabre II
Coin and Relic Detector Golden uMax
Nugget Detector Lobo SuperTRAQ
Coin and Relic Detector Outlaw
Pulse Induction Beach Detector Sand Shark
Coin and Relic Detector Sidewinder Umax
Coin and Relic Detector Silver Sabre uMax
Coin and Relic Detector Silver uMax
VLF Beach Detector Stingray II
Coin and Relic Detector Tejon
VLF Beach Detector Tiger Shark
Coin and Relic Detector Toltec II
Coin and Relic Detector Vaquero
Two Box Detectors
2 box Detector Discovery TF 900
2 box Detector Fisher Gemini III
2 box Detector Fisher TW-6
2 box Detector Whites TM 808
VLF Beach Detector Beach Hunter 300
VLF Beach Detector Beach Hunter ID
Coin and Relic Detector Classic 4
Coin and Relic Detector Classic 5 ID
Coin and Relic Detector Classic I
Coin and Relic Detector Classic ID
Coin and Relic Detector Classic IDX PRO
Coin and Relic Detector Classic II
Coin and Relic Detector Classic III
Coin and Relic Detector Coinmaster
Coin and Relic Detector Coinmaster 4900 D
Coin and Relic Detector Coinmaster 6000 Di Pro SL
Coin and Relic Detector Coinmaster GT
Coin and Relic Detector Coinmaster Pro
Coin and Relic Detector DFX
Coin and Relic Detector Eagle SL
Coin and Relic Detector Eagle Spectrum
Nugget Detector GMZ
Nugget Detector Gold Master 2
Nugget Detector Gold Master GMT
Nugget Detector Goldmaster 4B
Nugget Detector Goldmaster V/SAT
Coin and Relic Detector Matrix M6
Coin and Relic Detector MX5
MXT Pro
Coin and Relic Detector MXT Tracker
Coin and Relic Detector Prizm 5G
Coin and Relic Detector Prizm 6T
Coin and Relic Detector Prizm II
Coin and Relic Detector Prizm III
Coin and Relic Detector Prizm IV
Coin and Relic Detector Prizm V
Coin and Relic Detector PRL-1
Coin and Relic Detector Pro XL 6000
Coin and Relic Detector Quantum II
Coin and Relic Detector QXT Pro
Coin and Relic Detector Sierra Madre
Coin and Relic Detector Sierra Super Trac
Coin and Relic Detector Spectra V3 and V3i
Coin and Relic Detector Spectra VX3
Coin and Relic Detector Spectrum XLT
Pulse Induction Beach Detector Surf PI Dual Field
Pulse Induction Beach Detector Surfmaster PI
Pulse Induction Beach Detector Surfmaster PI Pro
Nugget Detector TDI
Nugget Detector TDI pro
Nugget Detector TDI SL
Coin and Relic Detector ADX 150
Coin and Relic Detector Deus
Coin and Relic Detector Goldmaxx Power
SOME GOOD DETECTORS PRICE
RANGES
Price Range: $350
Fisher F2
Comments: Released during the latter part of 2007, the Fisher F2 has a lot going for it in terms of
performance, selectivity and features. At this price point, the F2 currently dominates the field.
the Fisher F2 represents the BEST value in a metal detector under $300.00.
The large digital numerical read out from 0 to 99 is unmatched in any metal detector under $500.00.
In addition, the F2 has an on the fly 3 segment depth scale and a precise pinpoint depth reading.
Even more impressive is the speed of target sampling which matches the Tesoro line-up. The ability
of any metal detector to respond to targets as the search head is kept in motion over the ground is
important for seeing desirable targets ‘hiding’ in the trash.
Tesoro Compadre
Comments: There is a good reason this is a popular selleR. The Compadre’s 12 kHz circuit will see the
smallest fine jewellery deeper than almost any other metal detector on the market. And... it has the
quickest target response on the market today thanks to its two filter circuit and 5.75” loop size. You
can even use it for electronic prospecting since it’s sensitive to gold nuggets from match head size on
up. It boasts excellent audio characteristics. While most other metal detectors play the guessing
game as to trash vs. good targets, the Compadre, like the rest of the Tesoro line, has analogy audio
with lightning fast target sampling. A target response that exhibits a smooth, continuous tone is one
worth going after. Choppy, sputter or harsh audio responses are almost always trash. I am so
confident in the Compadre’s ability to sniff out elusive gold rings, it remains one of my preferred
choices in a rental for lost valuables. One knob operation and the industry’s strongest warranty
(lifetime) makes it a formidable detector presence in the under $200.00 range.
White’s Coinmaster and Coinmaster Pro
Comments: great entry level machines. White's has nailed these machines, and they are a great for
anyone exploring metal detecting as a hobby, but who does not wish to commit more than a few
hundred dollars to start with.
Garrett Ace 150 and 250
Comments: From 2004, the White’s Prizms dominated the lower end of the professional market. So
Garrett Electronics came out with the Ace 250, which rivalled the White’s Prizm IV in terms of
features and performance. The Ace 250 offers more sensitivity and better visual discrimination
resolution than the $179 Ace 150. My only complaint is the size of the screen… a bit TOO small and
hard on the eyes compared to the larger screens of the Coin master and Fisher series.
Garrett Ace 350
Comments: prime in the Ace line-up is the Ace 350. And right now, there is a holiday pack for added
value. Check it out!!! It features their 11" DD coil. A higher frequency and improved iron
discrimination make this machine a real winner in the serious entry level class of machines.
Price Range: $400 to $900
White's 5G
Comments: A Prizm with ground balance along with the spider coil that comes stock with this nice
machine. It makes all the difference! This metal detector is smooth, deep and hard to beat at this
price point. The Prizms also enjoy compatibility with the Jimmy Sierra Bigfoot.
White's Prizm T6
Comments: The Prizm T6 with advanced ground tracking, and so many features, you must see it to
believe it. Part of the secret to the Prizm's effectiveness is it's ultra-smooth audio circuit and loud
alert. In March 2009 the 4x6 shooter search coil was introduced. Customer response was very
favourable, with reports of digging up dimes (smallest USA coin) at 9"! One of my favourites with the
highest fun factor in the metal detecting industry in a detector under $700.00.
Fisher F4
Comments: Fisher, acquired a few years back by First Texas, who during the year prior to that hired
one of the industry's BEST engineers, Dave Johnson, has hit yet another homerun with the Fisher F4.
Excellent visual discriminator, easy to read and lightning fast target sampling. Seems to have the
same Hp as the F2 but with more bells and whistles to supplement an excellent circuit, including
manual or auto position ground balance and an all metal mode with auto tune position for
prospecting. Visual target ID scale adorns the top portion of the display with target pointer and large
digital numbers. Comes with the F75 10" wide scan loop AND the 8" concentric for trashy areas.
Gold bug Pro
Comments: with this incarnation Fisher has hit a home run. This series can be used for coin shooting,
relic hunting or gold prospecting, and is considered a crossover. Comes in various packages that
include different accessories.
Garrett GTP 1350
Comments: In 2004, the Garrett GTP 1350 came on the scene, replacing the GTAx 1250 and adding a
sizing feature called target profiling, which placed the target into one of three size categories; A, B, C.
The Garrett GTP 1350 has a well-balanced feel and is light enough for most folks. Digital tone,
including Garrett's bell tone response. Full featured. Depth is above average, as well as Garrett's
visual discrimination and electronic pinpointing. The rear battery compartment can pull off and hip
mount, decreasing the weight on your arm.
Garrett AT Pro
waterproof
Comments: this machine shows that Garrett is paying attention to customer demand. This is a
machine you can submerse in water and then take it to hunt the highest mountain peaks. The
available search modes include both standard and professional settings and the new 11"DD coil it
ships with make this machine a huge breakthrough for technology at this price point.
The connection sucks ; that’s only min point
Minelab X-Terra series
Comments: Since 2005. The X-Terra series have an extremely light feel and operate at a standard
frequency of 7.5 kHz with an ultra-quiet digital circuit. My first time out with the X-Terra 50 and first
target at A Beach was a white gold earring at about 7", easily heard with the X-Terra's loud alert
target response and wonderful tone ID. The digital number display is about as easy as the Fisher F4's
to read, although the X-Terras are not quite as quick as the Tesoros or Fishers on target sampling,
The X-Terra 50/505, like the flagship X-Terra 70/705, can change frequency by changing the loops.
The X-Terra 50/505 can switch to 18+ kHz loop for superior audio response on small gold targets and
nuggets. X-Terra 50 has manual ground balance control while the 30's ground balance point has been
preset by the factory to handle most conditions. The X-Terra 70 offers sophisticated automatic
ground tracking and additional programming AND a 10" loop that changes the frequency to 3 kHz for
outstanding target response on high conductive silver targets. The updated 305, 505 and 705 do have
upgraded software, and react a little faster, generally speaking.
Tesoro Vaquero
Comments: Tesoro's Vaquero operates at just under 15 kHz with a 3 position frequency shifter to
further avoid noisy cross talk from other detectorists or power lines. These are Umax detectors,
which makes them about the lightest in their performance class. The Vaquero has a manual 3 3/4
ground balance, which works the all metal and discrimination mode. The Vaquero's circuit is also
found in the Cibola, which has its ground balance point set internally by Tesoro.
Tesoro's DeLeón, Cortés, & Tejón
Comments: All three share Tesoro's lightning fast discriminator target sampling and lifetime
warranty. The DeLeón and Cortés (top dog in Tesoro's line-up) have visual target ID, but the display is
very small compared to other visual discriminators. The Cortés also has a feature similar to White's
Signagraph system, but again, the visual lacks resolution, so dimes, quarters, halves, and dollars read
as 'COINS'. Tesoro's real strong point as always been its analog audio response. Smooth targets that
are coin size are always worth digging and broken and/or harsh sounding targets are worth avoiding.
The Tesoro Tejón is Tesoro's deepest detector, operating at a 17.5 kHz. This is a bit on the high side
for silver hunting, but reports from the field say that the Tejón is bringing in a lot of silver normally
masked by trash targets and unseen by the competition. The Tejón uses a twin level discriminator
that can be set in a variety of ways. I set the higher level to barely pop on a zinc penny so I don't have
to dig them. Last time out with the Tejón, my associate dealer, Greg @ Trans Bay Metal Detectors,
scored a beautiful white gold wedding band in the bark and it is one of my favorites. Because of its
higher frequency, the Tejón is a bit more reactive over the small iron, but that can be a positive as far
as seeing through the nails etc. The all metal modes on both the Vaquero and Tejón have a preset
gain level, so the sensitivity is really a stability gain control in the discrimination mode.
White's M6 and MXT
Comments: one of my favourites with the highest fun factor in the metal detecting industry. With its
14.7 kHz frequency, and sharing the same horsepower as MXT, the M6 adds seven tones of target ID
in addition to the highest visual resolution you can find in a metal detector, 190 segments. The MXT
(now a Pro series model), considered by many as the BEST HYBRID for serious electronic prospecting,
relic hunting or coin and jewellery hunting, offers additional features like separate programs that
change the visual display. Its ground tracking system has been considered by many to be the best on
the market. The 'Pro now has tone ID, a display backlight and a 'ground grab' button, to make it even
easier to operate. My buddy Greg tested the prototype MXT with various prototype chips in
cooperation with White's technical engineering staff. This culminated in a ground tracking system
that set the standard from 2005 forward. In March 2009 the new 4x6 shooter search coil was
introduced. Customer response has been very favourable, with reports of digging up dimes (smallest
USA coin) at 9"! White's MXT continues to be one of the most popular sellers at Big Valley Metal
Detectors because of its ability to tackle virtually every surf and turf situation. The only drawback is
that it isn't fully submersible, like some of the specialty detectors.
Price Range from about $1000.01
THE BEST IN DETECTOR LAND ;
XP Deus 3
Comments: For the first time in a very long while, a truly innovative metal detector has come along.
And now it is available with the 3.0 software. Sure, there have been new bells and whistles and
beautiful make-overs on well-established technology, but this is a detector that seems to have a little
more than the average great metal detector. After you have gotten over the shock of how light the
whole unit is, how easy it was to charge the coil, control box and headphones simultaneously with 1
usb charging unit, and appreciated the fact that the set-up, including coil and headphones, is
COMPLETELY WIRELESS, there is still plenty more to get excited about. This unit is FAST! Very fast.
And the ground tracking is superior to ground tracking on other top detectors. The Deus features a
new way of filtering out the iron, which does not involve discriminating out the things you do want to
see. And that is just for starters. Treat yourself and come check out this ultimate metal detector!
I actually have had this machine out quite a bit since I got it in, and my review of it very favourable.
You can read some of it on my Facebook page (click on the icon at the top of the page). This
machine is real sweet, and it may just change my mind about there being no best metal detector....
Here is the write-up that is on my "Great Finds" page:
This is a 1944 British Half Crown I dug today. The yard from which I dug this and other things (coins,
tokens etc.) belongs to the neighbour of a friend of mine who owns several of the top machines out
there, and he has hunted it for the last few decades. He has been on that nice old property many
times with his detectors, and was stunned when he saw what I pulled out with the Deus.
This yard was a perfect example of a considered-to-be-hunted-out area. I have been to areas like this
one many times myself, generally to test new machines that make great claims, but the hunted out
places have remained hunted out. Until now. The XP Deus is delivering the speed and performance
that is needed to hunt tired old spots, for sure.
Ground tracking on this machine works beautifully compared to the other top machines out there.
And........... the XP Deus metal detector has non-motion pinpointing capabilities; it can track the
ground in both pinpointing mode and detecting mode, which is a GIANT leap!
It looks like the performance of the Deus is leaving the other big dogs in the dust, too, as far as
recovery speed is concerned. The speed on the XP Deus is nothing short of phenomenal, which is
something I do not say lightly. This super-fast recovery time is what makes such a difference when
you are dealing with old and trashy areas.
From the testing I have done to date, my review has to be very favourable. The performance has
been very reliable and at no time over the last week or so have I run into any situation where one of
the other top-end machines could have out-performed, or even kept up with this detector.
Another little thing I'd like to mention is that the whole unit, including the supplied headphones and
the coil, is wireless. Not only does that mean that there are no wires to get hung up anywhere, but it
also makes the Deus incredibly light. And, if that is not enough, you can make it lighter still by just
leaving the control box off and running the XP Deus from the controls on the headphones. Feather
light! It is really nice for someone on the wrong side of 21...
Fisher F75
Comments: the Fisher F75, like the F4 and F2, has outstanding features and performance. Operating
at over 13 kHz, and with oodles of sensitivity, it can deliver on both high and low conductors (silver
and gold). This detector is like a 327 Chevy engine with a hot cam and just street legal due to its high
gain circuit. Its automatic back light system for night time hunting is the BEST I've experienced. Its
depth is exceptional, but requires proper tuning to ensure stable hunting. Great light weight and well
balanced feel in its category. See the Fisher F75 here
Minelab Safari and Explorer series
Comments: use FBS circuits or full band frequencies (28 ), Minelab's unique way to filter out negative
ground and magnetic interference. The active frequency may be about 3kHz and the other harmonics
act in concert to sample and neutralize ground noise and power lines. When the noise is neutralized,
your ability to hear the deeper targets is enhanced. The 3 kHz will double the signal on deep silver vs
other frequencies. The output is digital, and although the Explorer makes it easier to hear that deep
silver without having to tweak, your lower conductors (gold, nickels and other jewellery) are usually
ignored by most of the Explorer users. Foil, shards of aluminium and crown caps sound a little too
good, where competitor's circuits chop those targets up. The Explorer has great gain and a smart find
screen. The Explorer SE lacks an audio and visual pinpointing system; it uses a more conventional
VCO pinpoint. All in all, these are nice, pretty deep metal detectors and are nice silver shooters. See
the Minelab Safari here and see the Minelab Explorer SE here
White's E Series DFX
Comments: Although it is getting old now, when it comes to a do it all detector, the DFX 300 is still
one of the top dogs. Not only is it a multi-frequency detector with 3 and 15 kHz, along with 18 other
harmonic frequencies, but you can select to operate in 3 kHz for silver or 15 kHz for gold. Along with
55 basic and pro options you're in total control. The DFX, like the XLT, offers Sign graph technology
but in addition to that you can adjust the sweep speeds, filters etc. The DFX 300 comes standard with
the big 300mm coil, but my advice is to buy the optional 6x10" Eclipse wide scan, which significantly
improves visual target ID in all ground conditions and gives improved target separation.
White's XLT
Comments: Discontinued. The XLT operates at White's traditional 6.59 kHz for very good response on
silver conductive targets and good response on most gold jewellery but it is not up to the
performance of the MXT on the lower conductors. The XLT shines in its Sign graph technology and
smooth operation as it is a full filtered detector. On a dime at 8" the XLT can deliver a better target
signal than the MXT or M6, but it requires a faster sweep speed to do so. The Sign graph technology
will not only read out the target ID but it will deliver 1 bar up on round targets within 6" to surface.
The XLT has been in the White's line-up for over 10 years and was preceded by the Eagle Spectrum
and Eagle series (White's first digital detectors).No matter what you own, the XLT can complement
your collection.
Garrett GTI 2500
Comments: Bells and whistles, good depth but long in the tooth and on the heavy side. Garrett GTI
2500 offers a wide screen and although not as sophisticated as the other big dog competition, it does
offer sizing technology A through E. Most coins and jewellery fall out in the B, with man hole covers
in the E size along with some caches, I guess. This detector actually can be programmed to talk to you
using a female voice. A poster on one of the forums, who is a single bachelor, actually put it on voice
mode and slept with his GTI 2500... now that's love. Depth is above average for a single frequency
detector at approximately 7 kHz and seems sensitive enough for gold rings. Ground tracks in the all
metal mode. I suspect that the discrimination mode and ground balance point is automated in the
chip and cannot be manually manipulated. see Garrett GTI 2500 here
Minelab E-Trac
Comments: this is the "minesweeper" for silver coins in parks. Newer technology allows you to hunt
what you had to leave behind with the Explorer II. With a much faster response time, this is not your
father's Explorer....
Minelab CTX3030
water proof
Comments: the new CTX3030, with its color screen and too many features to mention, is clearly
Minelab's new top-of-the-line coin/relic hunting machine.
White's TDI SL
Comments: nice. All that can be said about this newest incarnation of White's best pulse machine.
metal detectors is WOW!!!! It is like the lightest version of the original TDI. Yes, lighter, smarter and
faster. And it is cheaper that the original TDI, too! You are going to love it! This machine is a
crossover, suitable for treasure hunting (coin, beach, relic) as well as gold prospecting. It is extremely
deep and smooth enough to bring tears to your eyes! The original TDI was very popular with many
serious detectorists, and this new incarnation is nice and a little lighter.
White's V3i
Comments: An eye popping colour display on a super LARGE screen and too many great features to
mention make this machine 'the bomb'. Amazing audio, visuals, brute power and selectivity,
advanced circuitry- and wireless headphone technology; over seven years of R&D brings you this
manufacturer's most advanced flagship!
White's VX3
White's LATEST Spectra VX3... straight forward, no-nonsense machine. Just received White's brand
new VX3 this week. The name for the working project was EZV, which would have been a good name
for the final product, too...
White's engineers re-designed the user interface to be easier to access than that of the V3i. After
checking it out myself, I found it very smooth and deep. Horsepower is the same as the Spectra V3i
and uses the same Spectra Graph Screen. When you pinpoint the screen displays the strongest
frequency with regards to the located target. The visual display of the Spectra Graph is by far the
most informative in the industry and is very accurate where mineralization is involved. The live
controls have been redone and the filter choice is reduced to 5 and 12. In testing, 12 seems by far the
smoothest and is recommended for moderate to severe mineralization.
First make sure you determine what you can and want to spend.
However, there is a definite lower limit; below 300 Euro is little decent sale. The detectors must be
priced lower unfortunately often seen as "toys". The performances do not correspond entirely with
little or what the average amateur needs.
A new comer to the hobby that starts at such little machine will be in this age of "overfishing" almost
always dissatisfied with his results. Result: The hobby does not deliver the satisfaction that were
expected, the detector will be located in the attic after unsuccessful sales efforts and the sad owner
report to the local billiards club. The probability that the hobby or a success is much greater if you
purchase a detector above 300 Euros. (If the owner ultimately report to the billiard club, then brings
his detector at least still reasonable money!)
We will be the "ideal detector" go and in more detail. Mind you, some for an ideal that is necessary
for the other, of course, not to be! The data points are clearly below my personal vision as a detector
amateur and especially as a technician. Everyone must weigh the various demands of his own needs
to "ideal" to determine. His or her However, I think that the following points for a very large
proportion of the readers of major importance, and I hope to show that I do not yet receive the
attention they deserve. Many people the importance of several considerations
ideal detector should have:
1 have a sufficiently large depth range.
2 Good discriminate and over a wide range adjustable.
3 Light and the focus should be high.
4 Sufficient to withstand bumps, dirt, and moisture.
An easy 5-battery system, and prefer to work. On batteries
6 Decent priced and preferably from a known brand, so sell or trade-in is never a problem.
These are some of the most important features, but personally I would like to add a few, who often
receive too little attention:
7-The detector should be suitable for various types of dishes.
8-From a brand that gives good and long warranty, and should preferably accommodate for
alterations or extensions.
Preferably 9- are available at several places so that eg trade or service never comes to a dead track.
Then there are some criteria which I consider correct are not necessarily needed. So a good average
detector is not necessarily:
10-be Super Compact and folded to fit. In an attached briefcase
11-possess. A visual identification
12-to be present during the most violent rainstorms, tornadoes or tsunamis. Hassle employable
I will do all these considerations motivating point for point, and everyone can judge whether he or
she applies the same criteria themselves.
1 A good depth range I find essential. If the finds for grabs you can do with a lazy detector, but
intense searched areas will only fit a detector is certainly a layout conjure.
2 Good discriminate; discrimination behaviour should be fairly "clean", so clearly reject and accept
clear. Furthermore, the discrimination must also accept CCW iron. This I will explain later.
3 Light manageable; more important than the weight is the place where this weight is! A kilos under
your arm is almost no problem. A search coil of a kilo is an absolute disaster!
4 Bumps, dirt and moisture. The dish should be a lot of cash. Here the toughest requirements apply.
The electronics, however, can suffice with a sturdy table, provided they are not afraid of a few drops
of rain.
5-Important! Every time the battery is changing around the corner. Usually resolved a bit ropey with
9V cubes. Detectors at the more affordable nutrition This is expensive, inconvenient, and this calls
for break in the power supply wires. One of the two brands I NO longer want to fix necessarily took
the cake: a whopping six 9V blocks were needed for this detector. The owner allowed me to build a
special charger so he could work. With NIMH's future Price of only the NIMH's €155, -! The best
works a cassette system as one of the major brands. All new models of this brand use the same
"chocolate bar" that is filled with 8 penlight batteries or NIMH's. The penlight battery or NIMH has a
very good price / energy and weight / power ratio.
6 A fair price is important., For most of us A good trade-or second-hand price is actually just as
important. If you buy a well-known and popular detector later easily and conveniently sell or
exchange will be.
The above arguments speak for themselves. Which follow are still well worth considering:
7-Multiple types of dishes; for the advanced amateur round a must. Can you 80% of the land with
your standard dish, the other 20% can significantly improve performance with a special dish.
Example: many good universal detector chokes on dumping ground in the centre. A tiny saucer
makes the noise knitting suddenly clear language. Even this we will quite elaborate once.
8-Lange and good service and warranty is a boon to the user. If the detector works flawlessly for
years, its owner does so rarely. The Fix cables, broken battery doors, lost screws ...... It is therefore
important that the problems quickly, cheaply and efficiently «nt to be resolved. This can invest
enough in it. Unless the importer and its distribution
9-availability on multiple sites suggests a number of safe: The customer does not have to travel to
purchase or service, far and if you dies dealer or flight to Timbuktu, there are plenty of dealers.
Now the three points that are usually NOT so necessary. Although, of course it is always possible that
an amateur for some reason DO hold on to advance one or more of the arguments below.
10-Super Compact sometimes comes in handy on vacation, you then take the detector in your hand
luggage. The usual work? Oh, you actually would be a super compact shovel and super compact
rubber boots should have, otherwise you shoot there is little along on!
11-Identification: Gorgeous, although not essential to enjoy fun in the hobby. Very useful if you have
a lot looking at recreational beaches.
12-Stortbuibestendig or really waterproof? I'm not a compulsive seeker that I walk to dip. Among the
harshest conditions in the mud A little rain can of course cause no harm to your detector, but the
vast majority of detectors meet reasonable to rain resistance, which requires the average amateur.
And then there I personally rather see my money is spent on looking perfect performance than on
rubber gaskets and seals ...
GERMAN GUN
We will look at one of the most important aspects of contemporary detector further detail;
discrimination. For starters, the discrimination must be put sufficiently low so that even iron is
audible. "But I find no iron", I hear you say. Right. But let's look again at our "ruler". (Fig.1).
disc ruler
Right is the vondsten- and discrimination area. The vertical arrow represents the tipping point for
which the DISC button is set. All items with a guide to the right of the crossover point will be heard,
the rest will be discriminated against. An annoying trait of the discriminatiepricipe is that objects that
are close to the tipping point are already quite lose their depth. The detection sensitivity of the
accepted objects.
disc sensitivity
If your detector to minimum DISC all the iron clean wegdiscrimineert, so will not be a lot of sensitivity
to smaller bronze and gold small objects. Remedy: further reduce the discrimination. Advantage:
Hefty depth profit small bronze and gold. Disadvantage: You dig a sharp nail on a regular basis. The
amateur should be able to control what he or she finds acceptable to junk finds. Locally self Search in
All Metal is the other extreme; you dig you really mad at all the junk. No, better DISC is a scheme that
is sufficiently low. Unfortunately, one of the bigger brands metal detectors such high minimum
discrimination in various models. Too bad, but fortunately modifying properly.
Another brand has a lot of annoying trait. Extra annoying because this is not just changing moment.
To make this clear, I will tell you more about the internal structure of a detector. A detector has two
internal measuring circuits, A and B. Circuit A is using the GEB knob set to the ground mineralization.
Everything is on the ruler to the right of it, including all metals, will appear as a positive signal. Circuit
B is using the DISC button is set to the type of discovery from which we want to accept it. Again, that
everything is on the ruler to its right is considered positive signal will appear. In classical detector
construction works like this: If both measuring circuits simultaneously give a positive signal, a beep
will sound. Both circuits have to find the "approve" to get. Beep When, however, the different brand
one works like this: When measuring circuit A is a metal, a beep. If circuit B finds that the metal of
the type that should be discriminated against blocking the beep. A wants so beeping at each metal,
and B throws on the brakes if it is junk. Now comes the punch line: Because A circuit using the GEBbeautiful bud is set on the ground, which is little affected by soil mineralization and thus will go nice
and deep. Circuit B is contrast with the DISC-button set, and thus forced to NOT set to the ground.
Circuit B is therefore less deep and is therefore unable to reject at the edge of its search depth is ...
Practice junk: Detector is nice and deep, but deep junk sounds like a good metal. Just dig .. uh, oh no,
yet junk! Users of such detectors will recognize the problem. For me it is a complete mystery why a
manufacturer opts for such a system ...
Rules to follow in the field
As an amateur metal detector, you must observe the following rules:
Be an ambassador of this great hobby !!
Always ask permission of the landowner or manager of the land, or you may look on his / her land
(take to be sure, especially in government land, legitimation along)
Places where you should not go with a metal detector:
protected cultural and historical sites such as. Castles, castles, ruins
Archaeological Excavation sites (see eg www.kich.nl)
sown fields
pasture with cattle
protect nature
private property where you have not requested
Let munitions lie. If there is danger, proceed as follows:
stop immediately (excavation) work
cover exposed portions of ammunition for sight with Earth
mark the position and remember well how to find the place
Notify the local police
'm definitely not weaponry dragging yourself!
Never look at archaeological sites, unless you have obtained from the competent authorities (to help
in an archaeological excavation). Permission See www.kich.nl
Also protected cultural and historical sites such as. Palaces, castles, ruins and sown fields, pasture
with cattle, protecting nature are places that should be left alone
Make all the holes that you make neatly closed, treat nature with respect, make sure you plants,
trees and turf is not damaged and let it all neatly behind. This also prevents further that people and
animals can injure
Take as far as possible all the metal what you think, even though it is not interesting, it. Consider the
environment. Metals, especially copper and lead are bad for the environment. May even cause a
further money at the hardware store these metals
In the night without the permission of the landowner is prohibited. Someone that night looking for is
suspected busy
Finds, which one can reasonably assume or believe to be scientific cultural and historical value, must
be reported to the mayor of the place to which the field belongs. The findings should also be notified
to the relevant archaeological authorities.
Buy some Books, SEARCH INTERNET, you tube over the
hobby !!!!!!!
More hobby’s on
comeongetin.com
( See collecting coins )
Cleaning your finds
testing first !! and at your own risk !! be careful !!
Test and experiment that it is a delight before starting the real objects. In short, building a lot of
experience in cleaning, everyone will finally enough clutter to your heart's content with it to
experiment. Note the times and results of the experiments so that you know what you're doing.
Distilled water:
Is preferable to use distilled water and no piped water. In distilled no acids and minerals that corrode
metals or discolour. Sit These are found to be in rain and tap water. Remember, boiled tap water is
NOT distilled water. Of course, one can simply use water to test a cleaning method.
(Clean) Shine:
Do not use polishes, this often gives an unnatural shine. Use when brushing never hard brushes !, the
only exception is iron. Instead, use a soft brush or cloth; For example, a trimmed toothbrush or nail
brush. The short hairs are slightly stiffer.
rinse:
After each treatment, the items should be rinsed well, this is very important. When traces of acids,
alkalis, etc. that remain by poor rinsing, come into contact with oxygen will find a greatly accelerated
oxide formation takes place. Put the coins in a bath of distilled water. They may not overlap and
should be regularly reversed. When this method is not followed, may cause discolouration on the
coins. Occasionally water change is necessary because otherwise the water sours and chemicals «n
continue to act. On coins After about thirty minutes, the treatment is completed. Rinsing is enough
gold and silver objects. For other base metals copper coils alone is often not sufficient. The chemicals
«n working at these metals deep into the coins through and cannot be removed. Using only coils The
treated coins can be therefore better neutralized.
Neutralization:
Neutralizing and rinsing a method to convert. The significant effects of chemicals «n stop The
advantage of neutralization is that it eliminates the direct effect of a particular substance. A used
acid is neutralized by means of a liquor and a liquor by means of an acid. Dip the coin, and treated
with an acid in a bath, for example sodium hydroxide. Hereinafter referred to as yet again rinse well,
because the coin may be dependent on the strength of the caustic and the duration of the immersion
have become basic. By means of flushing, the lye remainder removed. For the neutralization of acids
include caustic soda and soda to household use. This is a considerably weaker liquor and can
therefore be used only if the coins are cleaned with a weakly acidic solution. For the neutralization of
alkali (such as, for example, sodium hydroxide) are, inter alia, citric acid and sodium bisulphate to be
used.
drying:
Drying the coins must be thoroughly done, the combination of moisture with oxygen creates oxide
formation. Drying is preferably done with a hair dryer. Breathable window drawings, e a strung with
nylon mesh window drawing flies are also good to use.
safety:
Be careful when using chemicals.
When making the solutions that the acids are done in the water and not the other (as you avoid
splashes!).
In terms of personal safety are indispensable:
a good dust mask (face mask)
gloves
goggles or face shield
clean tabard or clean old clothes
ATTENTION !! Always perform the work in a well-ventilated area, various substances give off toxic
fumes.
Environmental requirements:
When cleaning of coins and medals, one cannot do without acids and bases, but safe acids and bases
do not exist! All finished fabrics - should be separately submitted to the (chemical of) municipal
sanitation - an indication of the content.
GOLD
Is it gold ?, gold test: Let put together the following key water at the old-fashioned drug store; 30cc
HNO3, oh, HCL 5cc and 70cc H2O. Rub the 'golden' object on a piece of black marble and bring the
water to the stripes. If, after evaporation of the stripes are still present, it is gold. Gold objects and
coins not oxidize, it means that require low maintenance. Should the coins are still clean, you can do
so in the following ways:
Light wash dirty coins with soapy water from non-corrosive soap.
Polish with a mixture of salt and lemon juice.
Soak in citric acid.
SILVER
Is it silver? the silver test; Mix 25g water, 5 grams of sulphuric acid and 2 grams dubbelchroomzue
potash. Apply a droplet to a horizontal slice from the eye, if the red colour is silver. The redder the
colour, the higher the silver content. Silver objects and coins discoloured by oxidation under the
influence of pollution in the atmosphere, including sulphur. In Dutch provincial and Roman coins, it is
not desirable to remove the oxidation (read patina) by the slight discoloration these coins just better
appearance. Heavily soiled coins should be well cleaned. Different types of pollution require a
different approach. Because it is difficult to say what is the best method MUST be first experimented
with 'cheap' coins. Always remove the first vial resetting with a brush and water. Then one can apply
one of the following methods.
On the black spots a mixture of guest of salty and Chalk Powder apply immediately polish with a soft
bristle brush.
The objects rubbing with sigareas on a damp cloth. Rub with chamois.
Shine powder of Soot. Rub with chamois.
Chains etc. for about 15 minutes in boiling water with a lot of spirit salty. Polish with a woollen cloth
with some chalk powder.
Buff with (hot) salt.
With ammonia; Let the coins for about thirty minutes in a solution of ammonia, then the coins brush,
rinse well and dry.
With ammonia; The pieces decoct in ammonia and let it cool
The pieces rub fire with alcohol.
Very good results you get, by rubbing with thinner. Away the pieces
When a silver coin black is removed, or has black spots, is the best way to lay the pieces in a mixture
of 50% citric acid and 50% water, they often move and turn the solution every three days update. For
stubborn black spots, the treatment can last three weeks.
The pieces in a solution of 50% soap solution, 25% ammonia and 25% fire alcohol present, this may
take several days.
Take a zinc plate of 15 cm to 15 cm, 2 large handfuls soda salt (sel de SOUDE) and water, let's quite
boiling, throw the pieces in the solution. By a chemical reaction they cleanse without rubbing.
With citric acid; Put the coins and few hours to a day, depending on the amount of dirt and the
thickness of the oxide crusts, in a bath of citric acid, then brushing, rinse well and dry. By explaining
what iron spikes on the bottom speeds up the process .. PLEASE NOTE that the nails do not touch the
coins!
With an acidic liquid; Silver coins, which are only slightly mottled, can be satisfactorily cleaned by
rubbing a raw potato or by immersing in either sour milk or warm vinegar them under them; then
rinse, drying and polish with a soft cloth.
With Blackboard Chalk; For lightly soiled coins! Scrape or grate some chalk and make a fine paste of
here. Rub with your fingers on the coin to remove black deposits wipe with a tissue.
With silver dip; Furthermore, there are some resources under many different names (such as silver
dip, quick silver, silver touchpad) in trade. These are usually good to use brown and black struck coins
to clean quickly and effectively. The disadvantage of these agents, however, is that the stop is
completely removed, and this is not always desirable. In Dutch provincial and Roman coins, it's better
to get them to refresh with a cotton ball soaked in ammonia, after which they are rinsed and dried.
COPPER, BRONZE, BRASS
The metals copper, bronze and brass can be cleaned, the hardest one to aggressive treatment, the
objects / coins cause irreparable damage. So go very carefully. Have a nice uniform patina intact.
Begin always careful, you can always switch to other more aggressive methods if need be.
With petroleum jelly; Not aggressive method! Copper objects and pieces of coins which are only
lightly soiled, for example between the inscriptions, can be cleaned by rubbing. Using acid-free
Vaseline The Vaseline can also be applied by placing the article. / Coin in heated petroleum jelly
Allow to cool and withdraw, and then remove the Vaseline with a clean cotton ball, this leaves a thin
layer of fat behind the copper or bronze virtually air sealing and prevents oxidation.
Cleaned copper remains much more beautiful when it is rubbed. Immediately after neutralizing and
drying with a cloth soaked in petroleum
The objects / coins put in body oil. Depending on the degree of contamination, this can take several
months.
The objects / coins in household paraffin explain. This is something! stronger than olive oil, but also
can be very lengthy, patience is a virtue after all.
Make a very strong suds, decoct the pieces in it.
Especially for gilded copper pieces brushing with slightly soapy water, which per liter of water 3
tablespoons ammonia and burn alcohol added. Do not use abrasive products, otherwise the gilding
removed.
With Real Soap; Lukewarm water and real soap, dry with chamois
Soak it in kerosene and then brushing.
Soak in a solution of 1.3 water, 3.1 vinegar, 1.3 ammonia, then brushing
The pieces decoct in vinegar, which a large dose of salt has been added.
As for silver use thinner.
Brushing with Sour kohl, then polish with charcoal powder.
Brushing with a mixture of soap, Brandy and Cretaceous.
rub with spirit of salty and Green Soap (renew old copper)
Rub with a cut lemon dipped in a paste of potato flour with vinegar. Wipe with powder sand, for
example, gensse krachtige earth or charcoal powder.
eraser; Slightly soiled items / coins rub with a piece SOFT eraser
Bronze: rub with a rough cloth (terry) with chimney soot (coal?)
Bronze: Put the coin in the Cola
With only algae; Rub with animal fat, wipe with paper thin microscope the object
Remove green slime by rubbing with ammonia, turpentine or kerosene
Green slime prevent and remove; 3 parts of carbonic acid, ammonia, 1 part spirit of sal ammoniac
and 24 parts water.
Paraffin reining much copper species
Common salt water, soak and polish with woollen cloth with chalk.
With an acidic liquid; Less aggressive! Stains on copper coins can be by rubbing them with buttermilk
mixed with salt also deleted; alternatives are lemon juice or sauerkraut and beer table. After rinse
with hot water and polish with a soft cloth.
With ammonium carbonate; Less aggressive! Stains on copper coins can be removed by soaking them
in a solution of ammonium carbonate in water for several minutes. After good brushing, rinsing and
drying. The coins can also optionally be rubbed with the solution. After rinsing, they should be
equally buffed with a soft towel.
Cooking in soda water; Less aggressive! Often one can easily achieve the goal of cleaning by boiling in
distilled water, where some household soda is added to the coins.
A bath of soda and glycerine; This is a less aggressive method! Put the coins in a bath of 10 parts of
sodium hydroxide / household soda, 4 parts of glycerine and 100 parts of distilled water. As a result,
the green slime of copper coins disappears and the oxide crusts largely solved.
With a cleaning paste; Aggressive method! Make a paste of 8 parts of animal glue or gelatin, 150
parts of aluminium or zinc powder, 4 parts of glycerine and 10 parts hot distilled water. When this
paste 24 hours on the metal has to interact, the coins are immersed in hot water. As a result, the
paste will dissolve completely. Repetition of this treatment will result in complete removal of all
corrosion layers. After neutralizing rinse well or better.
With citric acid; Aggressive method! Let the coins 30 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the amount of
dirt, soaking in a bath of citric acid. Hereinafter referred to as neutralization and drying.
By vinegar or acetic acid; Something! less aggressive! Immerse the objects just below vinegar or
acetic acid water, possibly some salt may be added. The duration of this treatment depends on the
amount of dirt. After this treatment, the coins neutralization and drying.
Make a solution of three parts water, 3 parts ammoniac, 3 parts vinegar, then rinse and dry as
brushing, duration is about 20 minutes, slightly aggressive.
ZINC
Like iron coins oxidize also sink coins extremely fast. In contrast to the oxidation of the iron coins
oxidation protection if the sink pieces of the object for further degradation. Zinc is non-magnetic. The
white coating on the coins is not a disease, but only oxidation, there is no nml zinc plague.
Wipe with a mixture of clay and chalk powder
Make clear by brushing with a mixture of chalk and brandy.
Complete the blank, by brushing with a solution of 1 part of sulphuric acid and 12 parts of water.
With citric acid; Put the coins 10 Ã 20 minutes in the acid. The coins do have to be turned over
several times during this time. After neutralizing again, brushing and drying. It is recommended to
grease with Vaseline or other fatty substance, otherwise quickly discolouration coins after this
treatment
Only wash in soapy water very strong.
Hard brushing with washing powder.
TIN
Tin is a metal fragile and there are some alternative methods
Tin soldiers etc. freshen up with a solution of baking soda in water, rinse with lukewarm water with a
little lemon juice.
Not paints tin; The bluish color rendering by rubbing with cigar ash them.
Not paints tin; The bluish color rendering by rubbing with turpentine in lukewarm water.
clean with a paste of chalk and brandy.
By brushing with soda water, vinegar or beer. clean
Rub the pieces with a leek leaf (vegetable).
Decoct in beer.
Rubbing with poler watte
IRON
Iron as a coin metal is not propitious. Iron is therefore mainly used for the manufacture of
emergency coins.
With petroleum; Put the coins in an oil bath and rub them after a few hours with a cotton ball or
cloth. However, this is not a pleasant method because of the smell of petroleum.
With citric acid; Put the coins in a citric acid bath. After deposits and rust removed the coins
neutralizing and drying.
Rubbing with ashes of charcoal moistened with cooking oil
Days soaking in petroleum.
NICKEL, COPPER NICKEL
Many modern coins are made of nickel or copper nickel. Nickel and iron coins can be distinguished
from pieces of silver and aluminum, in that the former are magnetic. Nickel is a very hard metal. It
has the durability that characterizes all precious metals. Nickel coins not oxidize and are not dark by
sulfur compounds: they are thus rarely a stop provided.
Clean with a cotton ball soaked in ammonia.
Cleaning in thirty parts alcohol and 1 part sulfuric acid.
Attack by acids cleaned by rubbing with staerineolie.
Remove rust stains by rubbing with rind, then rub with a cloth with some amonia.
Make nice shiny by rubbing with a flannel cloth with chalk and gin.
ELECTROLYSE
This is a method that can be aggressive. Applied to several materials depending on the conduction
liquid used
Use a glass jar, or any other material which do not transmit power. Use an adjustable 9 volt adapter.
Make sure the adapetr ALWAYS been removed before you sit at the voorerp and make sure you have
your hands are dry from the socket Cuts off the plug of the wiring so that you're talking about two
separate wires. Find out what the plus and minus, sometimes the wires marked the thread with a
thickening or a dash is the plus. Otherwise, use a multimeter. If you know what the + pole is, mark
the wire strip the insulation off. Now you wrap the copper wire around a paper clip so this makes
good contact at the top. Now wrap a piece of aluminum foil to the paper clip, squeeze it well, the
whole should be about 6 inches long .. now attach an the - terminal of the adapter paperclip.Tussen
the paper clip to the - pole terminal you object you cleaned. Obviously there are to come. Many
alternatives on this idea Mix two tablespoons of salt with a dash of vinegar. Fill dissolved with water
until all the grains of salt, and pour the solution into the pot. Put the + pole with aluminum foil on
one side in the pot down, make sure the foil three inches, leave the top of the paperclip above the
waves as much as possible and confirm with the clothespin at the top of the pot. Set the - terminal in
the same way on the rim of the pot. Ensure that the object is completely submerged and that it does
not touch the foil. The object you want to clean hole now bubbling / fizzing. If this is not done, the
minus and plus pole must be exchanged. The water is dirty, the oxide falls off the object. Regulate
the process by setting the voltage, always start with the lowest voltage! Get interim the object out of
the water (from mains) and rinse and brush it clean. If necessary, repeat the procedure.
CHEMICALS
Used chemicals and their composition
ammonia (NH 4 OH)
solution: 1 part ammonia (and a concentration of 25%) in 2 parts of distilled water.
ammonium carbonate ((NH4) 2CO3)
solution: 1 part of ammonium carbonate in 4 parts of distilled water.
acetic acid (CH 3 COOH)
solution: 1 volume of acetic acid (at a concentration of 80%) in 15 parts of distilled water.
citric acid (C6H8O7H20)
solution: 1 part citric acid granules in 4 parts of distilled water does not use more than 150 g with the
use of citric acid for the treatment of copper, iron or zinc coins in a liter of distilled water, that is to
say 1 part citric acid granules in 7 parts of distilled water.
phosphoric acid (H3PO4)
solution: 1 part of phosphoric acid in 7 parts of distilled water; Add 7 grams of gelatin per liter of acid
solution.
household soda 1 sodium carbonate (Na2CO3)
solution: 1 part household soda to 4 parts distilled water
7 caustic soda
solution: 1 part sodium hydroxide (NaOH) / household soda (Na2C03) to 10 parts distilled
Often you 'll already have a coin counter that does not look . Especially the copper coins
oxidize quickly . It is not the purpose of cleaning the original color and luster comes back ,
but to make a mint beautiful and so attractive when the coin is really dirty. So just never
clean a coin . A coin does not . Cleanse your best However, at extremely high oxidation . Do
you want them anyway cleaning methods than are recommended .
Copper coins .
A copper coin can be used as best cleaning by taking vinegar and there to add . Much salt
The salt will not dissolve immediately , but after a while it is resolved. Possibly let you decoct
the coin in vinegar . Caution : Do not take acid ! Vinegar is only 6 % - 8 % acetic acid , and the
rest is water, while acetic acid 100 % concentrated and burning for your body .
A copper coin should never be too long in the vinegar . Sometimes it is a matter of seconds .
The brown color is gone and the original color of the coin is more or less back . With a strong
oxidation of the coin , the coin will be rosy look after cleaning. The less the coin is oxidized ,
the better the result .
In a number of coins that are cleaned out well, but at a copper coin , I have also achieved a
good result .
Also, you can create a highly concentrated mixture of soap and mint in there decoct .
After cleaning, you should rinse the coin with distilled water ( = pure water ) . Do this several
times in water change so that all the vinegar is washed away .
After rinsing, you should dry the coin. After cleaning and rinsing with soap you can possibly
make the coin nicely with soap . Then rinse the coin back well.
My coin oxidizes back .
It is possible that you will deflect brown coin . Again after a few hours or days Probably you
have the coin or not properly rinsed off with water or not be long enough to dry before you
return is inserted. Coin in a coin holder
sinking coins
When cleaning sinking coins go like work. Copper coins Only this purpose , use of citric acid
in place of acetic acid with salt.
After cleaning, rinse the coin you obviously thoroughly with water.
silver coins
After some time, silver coins begin to turn black.
This treatment is best in a bath of dilute ammonia .
Euro coins
To clean coins you could use vinegar. When a currency not in circulation has been so long,
but already has some oxidation spots , you can clean it with acetic acid . The coins of 1 and 2
euro , 10 cents , 20 cents and 50 cents can then beautiful shine just like new . Only the 1 , 2
and 5 cents , the result is less good . Beware ! These coins can oxidize back quite quickly .
You use the same method as explained in the copper coins .
Other cleaning methods
The easiest method to clean a coin with soap. You make soapy water and cleans the coin
between your fingers by rubbing . Fingers over the coin Debris will be removed , for
example, but not the brown colour of copper coins . Soap can be applied to all the coins .
After cleaning, you should rinse the coin again thoroughly with water and allow to dry .
You can also erase a coin. Use a gum that leaves behind no scratches ! You achieve a good
result here it. Your gums dirt road and a gloss replaces . After treatment with vinegar etc.
can you currency and gums is a nice shine .
NEVER clean a coin with brass polish . Copper Brush makes small scratches on your currency
and so is your currency irreparable damage and creates an unnatural sheen . Nevertheless,
there are collectors who do this. soft top
Wash your hands with soap.
Washing up will remove the oils and tiny grit from your fingers.
Lay down a soft towel.
Place a soft towel, folded over a couple of times, on your working surface to catch coins you
might drop, and to provide a space for them to dry.
Set up your soapy bath.
Fill a small plastic container with warm tap water. Do not use glass, china, or metal, as these
hard surfaces can scratch your coins! Disposable food storage containers are perfect for. Add
a litlle amount of dish-washing detergent to the container filled with warm water. Don't
overdo it - all you need is a really little bit.
Prepare your final rinse bath.
Fill a second plastic container with distilled water, for final rinse. Although distilled water is
by far the best, you can also use hot running tap water.
Clean the coin.
Pick up the first coin, and immerse it in the soapy water. Gently rub both sides of the coin
between your fingers, paying attention to any stickiness or gunk. Rub gunk near the edges
away from the center of the coin, not into it. Always work in an outward pattern. Dirt and
gunk near the edges should simply be made to go over the side with your thumb, not all the
way across the coin. Don't put all of your coins in the water at once! Do them one at a time,
to avoid their coming in contact with each other and causing scratch marks on the surfaces.
Rinse the coin.
Rinse the coin under running water, gently rubbing until all soap residue is gone. Always
remember, gentleness is the key! Don't rub hard, and if you feel any grit, even light grit,
don't rub it into the coin because it will scratch the coin very easily. Instead, sort of agitate
the coin by moving it quickly in the water to dislodge the grit, touch it gently only if needed
to free it up.
Every motion you make with your fingers should be focused on not causing scratches to the
coin's surface.
Do the finishing rinse.
turn the coin around in the distilled water, to remove the chlorine residue and other
contaminants that are found in tap water. Hold it by the edges and agitate gently. At this
point, you should no longer touch the coin on its faces. Touch it only by the edges when
using your bare fingers.
If you must use tap water for the final rinse, then run the coin under fairly hot water.
Allow the coin to dry.
If you use a distilled water rinse, you can set the coin on the towel to air dry. The coin should
dry spot-free, because distilled water is free of dissolved minerals and other impurities.
If you had to do the final rinse in hot tap water, then gently pat the coin dry to help prevent
spotting. Never rub a coin dry! pat it dry gently with a soft cloth or tissue.
Repeat until finished.
Now wash the rest of your coins, one at a time, following Steps 5 through 8 carefully. If you
run across a coin that needs to soak for a while to get clean, put it in the tub of water off to
the side, so you don't accidentally ding it with another coin you are working on.
Store your coins.
Make sure your coins are absolutely dry before putting them away. Damp coins can suffer
damage over time. Remember to always handle coins only by the edges.
also 3 components for cleaning coins
Silver coins : Get a small pinch of baking soda between your fingers and just start rubbing
the coin over and over. Again, if it’s a non-silver coin it will help a little, but on a silver coin it
will make it look 80% better.
Necessary tools to clean :
1. Brushes: an electric toothbrush, a plastic or fibre glass brush. A brass brush works the
best.
2. Detail tools. Either a toothpick or a soft metal pick for cleaning between letters etc.
3. Cotton swabs for cleaning slightly dirty coins
4. containers for your solvents etc.
The best way to clean coins is using olive oil. Simply soak the coins in the oil for about 4 days
(in some instances coins must soak for much longer periods). After removing the coins from
the olive oil you put them in a cup with one tablespoon of warm water and TSP (tri-sodium
phosphate)about 1/4 TSP 3/4 water}.TSP is available at any place that sells house paints.
Shake the cup and the let it settle for about 5-10 minutes. Rinse the coins in water to
remove the TSP( always use distilled water, tap water will leave mineral deposits, which
cause black dots on coins). Use an old toothbrush or other type as mentioned above and
gently brush away the dirt. Some coins will clean up very nicely. The ones that still have dirt
caked on, should be placed back in the olive oil. Repeat the process until you are satisfied
with the results. Don't rush the cleaning process. You'll be amazed at some of the results
using this method. Chemicals used and their composition.
( all the cleaning is at your own risk ! )
1. ammonia ( NH 4 OH )solution: 1 part ammonia ( and a concentration of 25%) in 2 parts of
distilled water .
2. ammonium carbonate ( (NH4) 2CO3 ) solution : 1 part ammonium carbonate to 4 parts
distilled water .
3. acetic acid ( CH3COOH )solution: 1 volume of acetic acid ( in a concentration of 80%) in 15
parts of distilled water .
4. citric acid ( C6H8O7H20 )solution : 1 part citric acid granules 4 parts of distilled water does
not use more than 150 grams with the use of citric acid in the treatment of copper , iron or
zinc coins in a litre of distilled water , that is to say 1 part citric acid granules in 7 parts of
distilled water .
5 . phosphoric acid ( H3PO4 ) solution: 1 part phosphoric acid to 7 parts of distilled water,
add 7 g of gelatine per litre of acid solution .
6. household soda 1 sodium carbonate ( Na2CO3 )solution : 1 part household soda to 4 parts
distilled water
7. caustic soda solution : 1 part sodium hydroxide ( NaOH ) / household soda ( Na2C03 ) to
10 parts distilled water .
Ultrasonic cleaning :
Well I can say with confidence that Ultra Sonics are the way to go, you only have to be on
top of the situation watching out how long you leave it in there, For silver coins It's the cat’s
meow, For bronze coins It's also great, but you have to watch out, it will take off pagination.
NOW the type I purchased K&E LEROY ULTRASONIC
It's a LAB GRADE ultrasonic cleaner, has variable Automatic Frequency adjustments(It's a
degassing stage, then 1st clean cycle then 2 clean cycle and so on, the water actually gets
hot from the frequencies employed. It's right at the moment cleaning one of my silver coins
with heavy hard encrustations, after 20 min. there is discoloration of the distilled water and
the crust is pitting and falling off.
Use only distilled water for cleaning solution as ultrasonic vibrations produce heat and,
therefore, the solution being used will evaporate. If there are salts and other chemical
compounds in the water, they will not only affect the coin being cleaned but also may cause
health hazards if their vapours are inhaled.
The cleaning solution should be made up of distilled water, a dab of dish soap (use a
toothpick to add a dab into the solution to provide a better action of ultrasound) and a dab
of de-foamer. Using a mild detergent solution, ultrasonic cleaners work very well on silver
coins. Copper and nickel coins may require stronger detergents or oxide removers to
dislodge grime and corrosion. You may add commercial cleaners designed for specific
metals.
Prior to the ultrasonic cleaning, soak your coins in distilled water until some encrustation
and/or dirt deposits are about to come off, use a hard nylon brush to scrub away most of
them.
Suspend a plastic cup or a small container or a basket (the smaller ultrasonic machines come
with plastic baskets) into the cleaner's pan. Rig the cup with a common wire hanger in such a
way that the cup is in the water but not touching the stainless steel pan which is filled with
just distilled water. Pour the solution into the cup and up to the level of water in the
cleaner's pan. The cup does not reduce the cleaning effect at all. During the process, the cup
will catch the dirt falling off the coin and stop it from falling to the bottom of the pan and
affecting oscillation. Any dirt or crud being present in the main pan will affect the cleaner's
performance and can greatly shorten the machine's lifetime. The cleaning solution in the cup
can be changed without dirtying the water in the main pan.
DON NOT put the coin on the bottom of the cleaner's pan at all! The vibrating bottom of the
ultrasonic cleaner and the dirt coming off the coin will cause numerous micro scratches and
polishing marks on the coin's surface; thus, devaluing the coin. And the banging of coins
against the steel bottom will cause flat spots on the coins.
Before
After
Ultrasonic cleaning COIN
Suspend the coin attached to a paperclip on a string off a stand (made of an old coat hanger
wire) into the cup and within an inch of the solution level. The coin should be hung in a
perpendicular position to the bottom. Such coin placement will provide maximum
"cavitation" - sudden formation and collapse of low-pressure bubbles in liquids by means of
mechanical force such as ultrasound waves. The more cavitation you can create, the faster
the ultrasonic cleaning process. Addition of the little dab of dish soap helps in increasing the
cavitation.
If you do not have the old wire hanger at hand, you can use a nylon pyramid tea bags
(without tea of course) with the string for placing the coin into it and suspending it into the
cup. The only drawback of using a tea bag is that it is difficult to position the coin properly.
Other means can be a piece of a plastic window screen from which you can make a "coin
bag" for the coin to remain in a perpendicular position to the bottom.
Turn the cleaner on, and allow it to run for a few minutes. Switch it off, take out the coin,
and inspect it to see how much dirt has been removed. As you see results after the first run,
you will be able to estimate the extension of cleaning required. If the coin only had a light
coating of dirt or gunk on it originally, it should have been cleaned by now.
During next run, do NOT let your machine run for more than 50% of its duty cycle. Stop it on
time and allow the cleaner to cool off. Change the solution or just add distilled water to the
cup. Brush all the loosened dirt off the coin.
To get the crusty spots, run a few cycles of cleaning followed by brushing after each run.
Keep checking frequently as to the progress and stop when you’re feeling happy about the
job. Do NOT ultrasound the coin for any longer than necessary as the coin's patina would
also be attacked and may be destroyed.
The patina of a coin is the layer of surface metal that has changed as a result of interaction
with environmental agents or contaminants. On modern coins, a patina is generally
considered to be undesirable damage to the coin's surface, and is often synonymous with
tarnish or toning. On ancient bronze coins, however, which have usually been buried in the
ground for 1,500 to 2,500 years, the patina is not only desirable, but practically essential.
The colour of the patina on ancient bronze coins is usually green, and can range from very
light green to a deep, lustrous, dark verdigrises’ green. Sometimes patinas are seen in other
colours, as well, such as blacks, reds, browns, and yellows.
happy DETECTING AND DIGGING
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