The Shampoo market
2004/05
The market figures
2004/05

The shampoo market represents a total of 535 million Euro. We are witnessing a slowdown in
its growth (+3% against +6% in 2002).
This mature market is therefore having to find new springboards for growth in sophistication
and the value of the product.
The provisional figures (Xerfi, hygiene and toiletries products, August)
Estimation of shampoo production in 2004: +18% (following a slower growth rhythm
in 2003 of +12%)

The penetration rate of the shampoo market is 95%
2004/05
5%
4%
10%
2%
19%
8%
2 in 1
Anti-dandruff
normal hair
coloured hair
9%
dry hair
children
fine hair
17%
greasy hair
anti-age
10%
others
16%
Division of shampoo sales depending on the different market
groups (in %)
2004/05
The European market and its individual particularities
95
90
85
80
75
70
France
Germany
Italy
Espagne
Europe
Allemagne
Europe
Série1
Spain
Great
Britain
The number of shampoo users in the European
countries (in %)

With 90% and 91% respectively of users, Great Britain and Germany are the
countries who use the most shampoos.

2004/05
Italy on the other hand register the weakest rate with 77% of users
The evolution of the market
2004/05
The market characteristics: competition and
opportunities

The shampoo market is characterized by
its particularly competitive and aggressive
environment

The hygiene sector and particularly the
shampoo market remains with a structurally solid
growth despite a bad consolidation and growing
consumer price sensibility
2004/05
The product status evolution

Originally, shampoo had a basic usage but consumers have vastly changed and evolved
its status and image over the past few years.

Today, the range of products is more complete, the offer more and more divisional
and the target areas selected more and more specialised. The products are more sophisticated
and valorised by specific ingredients, a frontal approach for the caring aspect and the creation
of a concept. It should respond to the more precise basic needs of the consumer, who is
becoming more and more exigent.
2004/05
A mature market supported by innovation

The market growth in value is therefore linked to the politics of valorisation on all the segments as
well as the emphasis placed on the technical nature and innovation.
EXAMPLES OF INNOVATIONS
Garnier Fructis Anti-Dandruff
A shampoo that eliminates dandruff after the first wash and
which prevents its re-appearance due to a zinc Pyrithiore
formula.
Organics
Establishment of a shampoo specifically orientated for anti-age
capillary care with collagen E
Dow Corning HMW 200 non ionic emulsion.
The integration in the formula of an ingredient which leaves a
lasting fragrance of the shampoo on hair.
Elsève Solar: After sun renovation shampoo
Launch of an after sun shampoo which, due to a new Hydralium
and UV filter system, protects and repairs dry hair in
2004/05
summer.

The market is therefore very dynamic and we are witnessing a great number of launches,
re-launches, the creation of new sub-segmentations and new brands.
Therefore, during the first six months of 2004, the number of shampoo references
increased by 5% in comparison with the same period of last year and the line size by 3%.
NEW RANGES
Mennen Sport
Herbal Essences- Procter & Gamble
The creation of a hygiene and caring range (with
The creation of the Herbal Essence mark, range
shampoo, deodorants, shower gels….) which touch
of 8 shampoos based on natural ingredients.
on Olympian values and which are constructed
around the idea of energy, performance.
Vivelle Dop- LaScad
Timotei Clear
Reinforcement of the Timotei range with the
launch of a menthol anti-dandruff shampoo.
The launch of a complete range of 4 shampoos
Temptation: Defended fruits for normal hair,
Extase rose for long hair, Ginger stimulating for
fine hair, Crazy citrus for greasy hair.
2004/05
Le Petit Marseillais Apaisant aux extrait
naturels de tilleul et d’iris bleu
The launch of an anti-itching shampoo.
Consumer
needs
2004/05
Basic needs at the origin of the market

The first basic needs of consumers are at the origin of the shampoo
market. The products are used for cleansing, alleviating odours etc.
The qualities looked for are efficacy, product performance (cleansing,
purification, regeneration etc.).
More sophisticated needs
Today, basic needs are not enough for consumers.
They are more and more exigent and are looking for a more
personalized product, adapted to their needs.
2004/05

Well being has today become one of the principal
needs of consumers. The products should produce pleasure and
emotion and therefore make reference, most of the time, to
nature.

Colour protection. More and more women are
colouring their hair and are looking for products that preserve
their hair colour.

Health and Care. Modern day life (stress, pollution, airconditioning, unbalanced diets etc...) damage the hair. Individuals are
increasingly concerned and turn to products where the “innovation and
natural technology” composition is important, to protect their hair.
2004/05
The distribution circuits
2004/05
The large scale distribution
8,7
3,1
is in full evolution. In 2003, it
0,4
mass distribution
selectiv distribution
chemists
direct sales
87,8
Distribution of the total turnover figure for shampoos
between the distribution circuits in 2003 (%)
Source: Xerfi, Toiletries and hygiene products, August
2003.
realised 87.8% of the shampoo
turnover whereas the other sectors
were experiencing progression
difficulties (selected distribution
and chemists, with a respective
evolution of 0 and 0.3 point
compared to 2002) or in recoil (-1
for direct sales).
2004/05
The players and their brands
2004/05
The shampoo market is a very competitive and particularly dynamic market.

L’Oreal Paris is the market leader but the brands are continually fighting to obtain market shares.
TOP 12 IN VOLUME IN 2003
TOP 12 IN VALUE IN 2003
Elsève
15.5%
Elsève
18.1%
Fructis
10.3%
Fructis
11.4%
Ultra Doux
8.5%
Ultra Doux
8.2%
Dop familial
7.3%
Jacques Dessange
7.7%
Jacques Dessange
6.1%
Head &Shouders
6.5%
Timotei
4.6%
Dop familial
5.3%
Palmolive
4.1%
Timotei
4.2%
Head & Shoulders
3.7%
Dove
3.8%
Dove
3.7%
Jean Louis David
3.6%
Organics
3.5%
Organics
3.5%
Pétrole Hahn
3.3%
Pantène Pro V
3%
Pantène ProvV
3.1%
Pétrole Hahn
2.9%
Source: Cosmétique magazine, juin 2003
2004/05
The segmentation
2004/05
In the face of a consumer need ever more exigent, we are assisting in a hyper
segmentation of the market which makes it particularly complex.
1.
By sex
We are seeing the appearance of products targeted at men. This segment is in full evolution and
growing.
Mennen Sport
The creation of a new brand 100% masculine.
Mennen communicate on the masculine values
of sport and performance.
Elsève Homme Shampooing Doux ReDensifieur au régenium XY
This shampoo responds to masculine needs
linked to hair loss with a product which gives
thickness and strength to hair.
Head & Shoulders Pour Homme
Anti-dandruff shampoo for men.
2004/05
2. By age
This target is an essential element of the personal offer, notably for the younger
population who need to be different and yet to be identified as a group.
Mennen Sport
Mennen Sport targets the 12-35 age group
with a colourful packaging and a
communication centred on sport.
Vivelle Dop
Vivelle Dop targets the 12-25 age group with
packaging of acidulous colours and very
modern fragrances.
Organics Anti-Age with collagen E
For mature hair.
Ptit Dop/ L’Oreal Kids
Very young target
2004/05
3. By use:
- Individual
- Family (example:Dop- the family format)
4. By hair characteristics
4.1. Type of hair
-
normal hair
Elsève Shampoo Soft Vita-Max
Fructis Normal hair
Herbal Essences Equaliser Tonic
Organics Daily Éclat
Ultra Doux with natural grapefruit and green tea extracts
Ultra Doux with hydrating vegetable milk
Jacques Dessange Tonic Eclat
Timotei with herbal extracts
Palmolive Naturals with Aloe essence
Palmolive Detangle and Brilliance
Le Petit Marseillais with natural apple and olive leaf extracts
2004/05
- Dry hair
Elsève Fortifying Anti Split Ends Nutra-Ceramide
Fructis Dry and Damaged hair
H&S Calming Dry Scalp
Herbal Essences Soft and Silky
Organics Nutrition Softness
Ultra Doux with walnut and peach leaf oil
J. Dessange Extreme Nutra dry and damaged
JLD Total Repair
Dove Repair
Sunsilk Duo Keratin
- Greasy hair
Elsève Energy Citrus CR
H&S Citrus Fresh
Herbal Essences Purifying Freshness
Ultra Doux Mint
Timotei with lemon extracts
Palmolive lemon and vitamins
Sunsilk Aqua Minerals
Le Petit Marseillais with natural nettle and lemon extracts
2004/05
-Greasy
-All
roots and dry ends hair
Herbal Essences Hydra Regulator
Fructis greasy roots and dry ends
Jacques Dessange Soft Clay
Timotei Equalising with raisin
hair type
H&S natural menthol
Timotei with almond extracts
Organics Express 2 in 1
Dop egg shampoo
Pantene Pro V Extreme Softness
Dove 2 in 1
Palmolive Natural with green apple and orange extracts
2004/05
4.2. Other characteristics
- Dry hair with no volume
Elsève Thickening Volume Non-Stop
Fructis Fine hair
H & S Extra Volume
Herbal Essences Extra Body
Organics Full Volume
JLD Volume Express
- Blonde hair
Ultra Doux camomile for blonde hair
Timotei with camomile extracts
John Frieda Blonde Highlight Activating shampoo
-
brunettes
Timotei Henna
John Frieda Brilliant Brunette
- Wavy/Curly hair
Pantene Pro V Perfect Curls
Sunsilk Aloe Serum for Wavy/Curly hair
2004/05
-
Coloured hair
Elsève Colour Care with UV Nutra filter UV
Fructis Coloured Hair
Herbal Essences Colour Intense
J. Dessange Colour Revival
JLD Colour Guard
Le Petit Marseillais with olive oil and natural poppy extract
Timotei with cotton extract
Ultra Doux Fig and Rose Oil
Sunsilk Colour Nutrium
Dove Brilliance Care
-
Mid-length and Long hair
H&S Smooth and Silky
Elsève Doux Brilliance Alpha Jojoba
Ultra Doux 2 in 1 with Vanilla
Le Petit Marseillais with natural pear and oatmilk extracts
Fructis Long and Strong
2004/05
5. By promise
- Hydrating shampoos (Dove, Neutralia)
- Nutritive shampoos (Fructis)
- Treatment shampoos :
Anti-dandruff (Head & Shoulders, Elsève Ultra Doux with natural extracts of thyme and
blue eucalyptus, Herbal Essence, Organics, Timotei Clear, Palmolive…)
Anti-itching/calming (Le Petit Marsellais)
Anti-hair-loss (Elsève)
- Smoothing shampoos (Pantene Pro V)
- 2 in 1 shampoos (Dop, Dove, Head & Shoulders)
- Shampoos advertising highlights, brilliance (John Frieda)
- Anti-age shampoos (Organics)
2004/05

Appearance of a new
segmentation: by season
- Summer:
Elsève Solar Hydralium and
UV filter system
Jacques Dessange (UVA and
UVB filter, with extracts of
vegetable and algae vitamins)
- Winter: Wella anti-static
shampoo
2004/05
The general olfactory
trends
2004/05

The flowery and fruity notes are very
much present on the shampoo market. Simple and natural,
they give a fresh and soft appeal. Two notions very
important on the shampoo market.
Elsève shampoo for midlength/long hair with
flowery/fruity notes of banana,
blackberry and jasmine.

The benefits of aromatherapy and
essential oils on the scalp intervene more and more in the
olfactory note of the shampoo. The aromatic and
hesperidia notes convey the notions of freshness and
cleanliness.
Le Petit Marseillais AntiDandruff shampoo – myrtle
and eucalyptus
Ultra Doux shampoo with
lemon/olive oil for dull and dry
hair
2004/05

The fern notes, woodland and
marine are also very much present; they are
addressed particularly at the masculine consumer.
Elsève Anti-Dandruff shampoo
for men

The avaricious notes are equally
present on the market. They convey the notions of
well-being and exoticism. We find them for
example in the summer shampoos with sun
protection.
Elsève Solar shampoo with a
fondant texture and an
irresistible perfume with
avaricious notes.
2004/05
To each type of shampoo … its own olfactory family
Anti-dandruff and treatment shampoos
The notes are above all aromatic (thyme, eucalyptus, mint) but hesperidia
notes are equally present. These fragrances evoke freshness and
cleanliness and also the appeasing and caring side of the product. The
woodland notes are likewise present.
Greasy hair shampoos
The notes are above all hesperidia (lemon in particular, grapefruit,
orange…)
The green notes (apple, tea) and aromatic are equally present. They
convey freshness and cleanliness (purifying effect) but also dynamism and
energy.
2004/05
Dry and dull hair, reparative and nutritional
The notes are soft, fruity, flowery but equally avaricious
(caramel, coconut, vanilla, honey). The hesperidia notes are equally
present for freshness and cleanliness.
Hydrating, soft shampoos
The notes are very cosmetic and evoke softness.
We find therefore, milky, flowery (rose) and fruity (peach,
pear) notes. They evoke cotton, cream, silk, almonds,
vegetable milk.
2004/05
Brands and products –
market positions
2004/05
Shampoo Softness & Care
Shampooing Pleasure
Shampoo Nature
Shampooing Family
ShampooTechnicity
Shampooing Treatment
&
Health
2004/05
Shampoo Softness & Care
Hair contains 10% water and as for skin, this quantity is
essential for its health. Whatever the hair type, it needs
hydrating regularly to stay beautiful. In fact, the more the
scalp is hydrated, the better it resists to exterior
aggressiveness (brushing, hair dryers and pollution).
Soft and caring shampoos gently respect the hydration
of the scalp and allow the hair to rediscover its vitality,
strength and brilliance.
This type of shampoo is addressed to all hair types. It allows the
gentle preservation of coloured hair, brings softness and appeasing care with
anti-dandruff shampoos and also more softness for longer hair.
2004/05
Shampoo Softness & Care
Their formulas are soft, dermaprotective, pH neutral and hypo-allergenic
(Neutralia).
This type of shampoo could contain
hydrating milk (Dove formulas contains ¼ of
Dove
hydrating cream) and is often associated to
Neutralia
softening ingredients such as almonds, vegetable
milk and Aloe Vera. The texture is therefore
creamy, unctuous and calls to mind silk and cotton.
This particularity is found at the olfactory note
level which is very cosmetic and soft.
The products
Total Softness shampoo from Neutralia
Anti-Dandruff and Care shampoo from Neutralia
Ultra Doux with hydrating vegetable milk
2004/05
The brands
Dove Moisturising Milk shampoo for dry hair
Dove 2 in 1 shampoo for all types of hair
Ultra doux
Shampoo Nature
Nature is used in numerous ways on the
shampoo market.
This type of shampoo puts forward the
virtues of natural ingredients on the hair: nourishing,
fortifying, balancing (notably with citrus fruits for
greasy hair), hair-lightening, calming (for antidandruff shampoos with aromatic ingredients)
reparative ….
2004/05
Shampoo Nature
Nature is associated with
softness and caring but can also be
associated with well-being and pleasure.
On an olfactory level, the notes
evoke the multiple facets of nature:
freshness, cleanliness, well-being, exoticism
etc.
Fructis
Palmolive Naturals
Timotei
Ultra doux
Le Petit Marseillais
The products
Fructis Fortifying Hydra-Smooth
Palmolive Natural Vitality and Brilliance
with green apple and orange extracts
Timotei with raisin extracts (greasy roots
and dry ends)
2004/05
The brands
Ultra Doux with natural grapefruit and
green tea extracts
Le Petit Marseillais appeasing with lemon
tree and blue iris extracts
Shampoo Pleasure
This new type of shampoo corresponds
to the new needs of the consumer, searching today
for pleasure, well-being, a poly-sensorial
experience. The shampoos offer, therefore,
fragrances and textures that wake up the senses
and offer the consumer the chance to dream...
Shampoos are consequently becoming an experience, an
agreeable moment for the consumer. The product is appreciated above its
cleansing characteristics and performances.
2004/05
Shampooing Plaisir
Nature is omnipresent to evoke pleasure. It allows the link
between the virtues of natural ingredients (notably herbs and flowers for the
new brand Herbal Essence) and an agreeable perfume.
The notes trendy and young (notably acidulate and sparkling) are
restored with the current flavours (Vivelle).
The products
Vivelle Gingembre stimulant
Vivelle Extase de rose
Vivelle Fruits défendus
Vivelle Folie d’agrumes
Herbal Essences Douceur et brillance (aux extrait d’églantier,
jojoba et thym)
Herbal Essence Hydra régulateur (aux extraits de bleuet, aloé
vera et écorce de cerisier)
2004/05
Herbal Essence Tonic Equilibre (aux extraits de camomille, aloé
vera et passiflore)
The brands
Herbal Essences
Vivelle
Shampoo Treatment - Health
These shampoos could be anti-dandruff, dry
scalp relief, hair-loss etc.
Their formulas are extremely soft and allow
for daily washing
They are usually associated with aromatic
notes (Thyme, Eucalyptus, and Mint) to evoke freshness
and cleanliness and equally the calming side of the
product or the soft flowery or fruity notes for the
caring side.
2004/05
Shampoo Treatment - Health
The brands
Head & Shoulders
Pétrole Hahn
Elsève Homme
The products
Pétrole Hahn Force The Original Green
Head & Shoulders Classic
Head & Shoulders Freshness with natural menthol
Head & Shoulders Citrus Fresh
Elsève Anti-dandruff for Men
2004/05
Elsève Thickening shampoo for Men
Shampoo Technicity
This type of shampoo puts forwards the creativity, the technical
aspect and the efficacy of the products and their formulas: silicones,
magnesium salts, vitamins, UV filter systems, purifying agents, concentrated
essential oils, serums etc.
These shampoos reinforce, fortify, repair, protect, revitalise,
purify, nourish and relax the hair.
Specific formulas are appearing to respond to the new
preoccupations: curly hair, smooth hair, anti-age formula, sun protection,
shampoo for blonde hair etc.
2004/05
Shampoo Technicity
The brands
Elsève
Pantène Pro V
The products
Organics Anti-Age with Collagen E
Organics Hydra Purity
Elsève Solar
Elsève Intensely Smooth
Kéranove Hydra Purity
Pantene Pro V repair and protective care
Sunsilk Volume shampoo
Sunsilk Aqua Minerals shampoo
Sunsilk for Perfect Curls
Jacques Dessange Active Termo
2004/05
Jean Louis David Total Repair
John Frieda Highlight Activator
Kéranove
Jacques Dessanges
Jean Louis David
John Frieda
Shampoo Family
This type of shampoo is targeted at
the whole family with an economic price, large
bottles and simple olfactory notes, agreeable
and appreciated by all.
The offer is not largely segmented and
responds to the most basic requests. The
formulas are usually soft and apply to all hair
types.
The products
DOP Egg Shampoo
DOP Soft Vanilla
2004/05
DOP 2 en 1 Soft Almond
The brands
Dop
The trends to follow
2004/05

The hyper segmentation
Consumers are looking for targeted products to
which they can correspond. The idea of belonging to a
group and to be, at the same time, different is a strong
consumer tendency. The segments follow therefore the
particular strong growth areas:
- Products for men
- Products by age section (for example 12-25 years)
- Products for blondes/brunettes

Nature
This is a particularly strong axe in the beauty
hygiene sector. It represents numerous symbols:
softness, well-being, freshness etc. Consumers
appreciate natural components and the natural trends
(products with essential oil bases highlighting quality
raw materials) seem the most interesting to follow.
2004/05

Pleasure and well-being
This tendency corresponds to the new
consumer requests, looking today for pleasure, well
being; a poly sensorial experience.
The shampoo products inspire spa or
aromatherapy concepts.
2004/05
2
0
0
4
2
0
0
5
Collection Floressence
Shampoos


For men shampoo:
NEW MAN
34337
For a particular type of hair:
- normal hair:
CLAIRBAL
CLAIRY
- dry hair:
NUTRI
- greasy hair:
APPLEMINT
2004/05
34363D
34009B
34263G
9483B


For particular characteristics:
-coloured hair:
ACTIFCOLOR
34032C
- brunettes:
ANITA
34331H
For particular promises:
- hydrating shampoo:
HYDRA
34021D
- solar shampoo:
SOLAR
34385D
- anti-dundruff shampoo:
NO PELL
ANTIPELL
34421D
34342
2004/05
This publication is for information purposes only. It is not
exhaustive. This document cannot be used for a publication without
mentionning the origin.
Marketing Department
2004/05