GLOSSARY OF TRENDS FOR THE AUTUMN-WINTER 2008/2009 WOMEN’S
COLLECTIONS
ANIMAL KINGDOM
CARLA PERRETTI - The a/w 2008-09 collection has a dual spirit. One part is dedicated to the
glamour of a sophisticated woman who wears long dazzling golden chains with semi-precious
stones and animal-image pendants. The most popular symbols are the variegated owl,
the seahorse and the fish with pearl eye. The other part has been thought up for a flowerpower miss who flaunts large lucky charms, necklaces with glass beads or pieces with a colour
palette based on bronze.
JAM – Dragon, tiger and octopus: animals full of symbolism that lead iconographic
research in the Jam line of jewels. Silver, bronze and brass join with leather or fabrics and
precious stones (pearls, diamonds, semi-precious stones), while shields and capitals are used
as the bases for pendants, bracelets and rings, reminiscent of medieval gargoyles or antique
hunting trophies, in a fusion of nature, art and traditional Italian gold jewellery.
LISA FARMER – “Neither fish, flesh, fowl nor good red herring” is the collection that Lisa
Farmer, an American designer, dedicates to an original concept of accessory, the Japanese
netsuke – a small statue worn at the waist, tied onto the kimono sash. Portable containers,
one-off handmade pieces that bring to mind insects, shellfish or imaginary fish and
use vegetable-tanned leather, precious seeds from Bogotá and aged-effect bronze.
BON TON
ANDY & DEBB – “Romantic Minimalism”: a formula that is 30% romantic style and
70% minimalism, perfect for setting the mood of the collection created by this Korean duo.
Extremely essential tailoring cuts applied to sumptuous fabrics for sportswear with a fresh
refined imprint.
BENSIMON LIMITED EDITION – Immediately adopted by the fashion community worldwide,
Tennis Bensimon is by now a must for every woman’s wardrobe. Adored by Brigitte
Bardot, Jane Birkin and Lady D, this is a basic with an unmistakable French flavour that
continues to inspire limited editions.
LABO.ART - Jersey is the protagonist of a total look with a clean-cut relaxed imprint,
combining studied volumes with an entirely plain-coloured range of products. Masculine-style
trousers team with vintage-effect sweaters, while suits with Japanese ancestry in their lines
construct the silhouette in a fresh yet formal way.
ARTISTIC REFERENCES
ANTONI & ALISON – The classics of British tradition restyled with irony and eclectics,
thanks to the use of prints and graphics inspired by the world of contemporary art:
this is the brainchild of this pair of designers who already stand out as two of the most
promising names on the London scene. Their colourful little sweaters in cashmere are already
a cult. These summer garments are worn by an exceptional testimonial, albeit with her face
under a veil: Nicole Kidman, a great friend of Antoni & Alison.
GEORGIA TURRI – Pointed shapes and pure volumes for a collection that looks to the
melancholy sensuality and dramatics of Caravaggio-style composition, the result of
chiaroscuro and colour contrasts. Strong points: green croc sandals with ten rhodiumplated buckles, courts in patent ostrich and shiny edges, low boots with pleated harp-shaped
heels and short platform boots in patent and suede.
MALE CLASSICS
CANTIERE DONNA JCM JEY COLE MAN – Preppy inspiration for a total look that lends a
feminine twist to the classics from the male wardrobe. Wide range of fabrics and weaves –
Prince-of-Wales, herringbone, bouclé, stripes and diamonds – for knitwear and shirtwear in
cotton and silk and for fake furs.
CARLO CONTRADA - “The thought of difference”, a movement from the seventies and
eighties, provides the guidelines for reworking of the pivotal elements in male elegance,
transforming them into ultra-feminine garments. The shirt turns its proportions upsidedown to make a mini-dress, belts get knotted like ties and the classic trouser becomes shorts
to partner with oversize waistcoats.
OLIVIA NOOR – Among the cult pieces from the new collection, "Emma", a court that is
unmistakable in men's tie fabrics or bon ton when topped with a fur pompom. The lace-up
ankle boot with leather upper and neck in tweed or fur is dedicated to followers of fashion.
TAILORED DETAILS
CORA DE ADAMICH – The shirt as a way of living: prevalently white, cool and elegant,
with a tailored imprint, it boasts careful details and comes in top quality cotton, linen and
silk. Little dresses and accessories also show markedly feminine yet sober style, dedicated to a
woman at ease anywhere, anytime.
MABITEX – Austere image and masculine cuts for "tux-inspired" skirts and trousers.
Tailoring references guide citywear with slim body-hugging lines but contemporary wearability.
Understatement rules in feminine elegant black, the many shades of grey and bright white.
MAE – Prince-of-Wales, herringbone, bird’s eye: traditional prints and geometries
become the distinguishing feature of belts in cotton, linen, wool and silk, entirely
handmade and each bearing a numbered label. Accessories seen as the point of arrival of
exclusive fusion between Swiss craftsmanship and fine fabrics.
EVOLUTIONS OF THE SNEAKER
MBT - Shoes that manage to recreate that “barefoot” effect thanks to their curved
gondola-shaped sole that ensures correct movement. Fruit of the partnership with Gore-Tex,
the sporting model “Chapa GTX”, in coffee and ebony. The casual winter look also sees
"Tambo”, the new entry boot in black leather or in brown suede and “Lami” in fabric with
Japanese inspiration.
MUNICH SPECIAL EDITION – Unusual combinations of materials and colours in autumn
shades, iridescent hues and multi-colours, plains and “water” effect for the cult sneaker
collection, re-edition of the first technical Futsal boots (5-a-side football) in the seventies. New
entry is the slim-sole model in patents and laser-cut leather and metallic effects.
FETISH
BRUNO BORDESE - Dizzy-making heights and thick heels give combats and boots
with cut-off shapes aggressive, rather fetish femininity. Materials are soft to the touch but at
the same time strong and resistant and in all the earthy shades: from mud to the range of
browns, from grey to anthracite and black.
DELL’EST - Belts seen as the point of arrival and partnership of all-Italian craftsmanship with
updated fashion trends. The symbol garment is the bustier belt in its sexiest or most
refined variations: black, with a fetish slant or metropolitan lady warrior style, croc
print, right through to one in soft coffee-coloured leather.
FUR
INÈS ET MARÈCHAL - Only the noblest of Italian and Spanish tanners work for this brand,
processing the best skins, which include fine mink from Scandinavia. Point of arrival is a line of
luxurious feminine outerwear: furs and little coats with cinched-in waists to wear with
leggings.
SOLLECITI – Fur undergoes transformation when teamed with technical fabrics, heavy
jerseys, cashmere and padded materials. The reference world is Cortina in the sixties,
where fur-style is completely at home. A classic snow garment like the off-white ski suit is
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reworked in jersey combined with polyurethane and becomes a micro jacket with removable
fur. A- or egg-shaped little coats in breit have large curly collars and folded hem at the back.
CROCS – Success continues for Cayman, the first model of the famous shoes in Croslite, today
available also in the winter version Mammoth, with fake fur details. New products
include Mary Jane pumps, chic and sporty, to wear in the city; Sassari, the two-colour clog for
a fashion trendy look and All Terrain, perfect for the cold and rain.
THE CROWN JEWELS
CHILANGO – Each jewel is a unique piece in the XXLuxury line by Chilango, a brand
headquartered in Düsseldorf and designed by the ex top model Mara Zillgens. The Queen’s
Cruise Collection is one of the new entries, comprising regal sterling silver chains embellished
with semi-precious stones and freshwater pearls.
TATABORELLO OFFICINA BIJOUX – Jewels fit for a queen are given new life in
necklaces and bracelets in crystals, glass beads and steel- and bronze-coloured
beads. Bijoux in the "Regina Sofia" family mix minute glass beads in sumptuous cascades of
flowers in delicate shades, while "Regina Elisabetta" sees ribbons in different materials cleverly
curled to make coloured garlands. Victorian inspiration for the line made with large resins
woven with cages of crystals and ribbons.
HATS
BORSAINO - Luxurious turbans in shorn mink, sophisticated head gear in pleated
silk, elegant feathery hats ranging from casquettes to cloches, from wide brims to
fascinators/narrow brims1, without forgetting the timeless wing2, large and wavy or rigid,
colourful or plain and decorated with strips of leather or velvet. All rounded out by a line of
lively super lightweight hats in melange felts, patent or perforated, ready to be folded if
necessary.
HABIG – Clean-cut shapes with a vintage touch are covered in velvet, fox fur and
kidskin. From this historic headwear company, a collection that reworks the sophisticated style
of the roaring twenties, with the Charleston, jazz and femininity identified in the partnership
“boyish haircuts and bright red lips”.
KATHARINA M – Unpredictable hats, which make the wearer impossible to ignore, these
handmade creations by Katharina M were born to stress the personality and femininity of
every woman, but also to protect from the elements.
HIPPY CHIC
GOTHA – Sixties and seventies silhouettes breathe life into a collection that chooses little
double-breasted coats, jacquard pattern dresses, palazzo pants and midi skirts.
By definition an ethic product, entirely made in Italy, materials used include over-dyed stretch
cashmere, silk, mohair and pure wool.
PICCIMORRA - Coated nylon, jacquard silk check, masculine wool and prints in silk
satin: bohemian femininity appears in the section of the collection dedicated to Milan with mini
lengths, Empire line and clean-cut style. The other looks include Paris, which borrows
garments from the male wardrobe and New York with a fresher more informal mood, the great
classics reworked in shocking colours.
SOLILOQUY – A total look based on a seventies hippy chic feel. Nothing is as it appears:
the “surprise” dress, fabric front, knitted back; the shirt-effect overall to wear with trousers; Tshirts in satin crêpe combined with jersey, genuine knitwear articles; the printed sleeveless
sheepskin dress; military-style jackets made feminine with bows, embroidery and origami.
ZIIO – Refined boho feel for jewels that interweave the dazzle of silver and brass
with shades of amethyst violet, avventurine green and garnet red. Bags interpret this mood by
blending the softness of suede in different hues with flashes of stones in bright colours.
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Cerchietto in questo senso mi lascia perplessa. Non so se si riferisce a quelle cose con piume e strisce di tessuto che le
signore portano per i matrimoni ("fascinator") oppure una tesa molto stretta (“narrow brim”) – meglio sentire il cliente
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ala = presumo quei cappelli che sono un pezzo enorme che si stacca dalla testa - molto pericolosi in pubblico tra
l’altro! - ma non ho trovato nessun riferimento su www, neanche una foto, né nei glossari di riferimento
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TRIBUTE TO NATURE
ANISSEJ LIFE – Harmonious embracing lines are moulded in refined fabrics, inspired by a
search for uncontaminated nature and by the icon Ernest Hemingway, the man with a suitcase
in his hand. A light fragrance of aniseed makes jackets stand out, strictly made in
Italy and refined in every detail, from braces to a newspaper pocket, right through to an
innovative jacket cover that turns into a handy briefcase; the ideal garments for today’s
travellers.
MADAME GRILLET – Bags with primitive allure, all with a fringe: African Shoowa velvet
plaited with washed leather and a close-knit weave of fur create “Pelliccia”, one of the
collection's cult pieces. Dedicated ideally to a princess of the steppes, “Yuma” is in
sheepskin with a genuine horn handle, while the shiny leathers of "Viviane" and "Virginie" have
been thought up for cosmopolitan travellers.
NATHALIE VERLINDEN – “Vegetally Tanned Leather” is the programme manifesto for
the accessory line by this designer based in Antwerp. Shoes and bags entirely made in the
laboratories in the Marche and treated with ecological natural tanning substances,
like extract of hazelnut and mimosa. Pieces that deliberately preserve the imperfections and
the original welcoming scent of leather.
VINTAGE JEANS
CARE LABEL – European preview at Touch! for the line of luxury denim, born out of the
creativity of Lapo Elkann and the designer Leopoldo Durante. To mark the occasion, the special
jeans “Care Label for amFar” will be presented, with the first pair auctioned off for 20,000
dollars at a gala evening in New York on 31 January. 20% of profits from the sales of this
special edition will be donated to amFar, the organisation for the fight against Aids for which
Sharon Stone is Global Fundraising Chairman.
CITIZENS OF HUMANITY – Greta Garbo, Carole Lombard and the stars from the
thirties are the muses for the new winter items from the premium denim line. Wide legs rule
OK: waists are higher, creating long-line proportioned figures. Vintage elements partner with
bon ton accents like belt loops and wide belts or with geometric details in lurex on invisible
pockets. Denim is dyed and not washed and favours shades of deep blue.
MAY 75 /575 DENIM – Jeans sold in the most exclusive of boutiques and worn by
celebrities of the calibre of Cameron Diaz, Jennifer Lopez and Lenny Kravitz.
Impeccable interpreter of the “Los Angeles style” and destined for fans of vintage patina, 575
Denim is entirely produced in California, using the best Italian and Japanese fabrics. The most
popular washes are The Beverly Hills, The Farmer and The Frank.
REWORKED KIMONO
CLIZIA ORNATO – Prints featuring ancient Japanese kimonos are the protagonists of
an original collection of unique bijoux-pieces. Necklaces made from paper, with finishing
details in leather and ceramic pendants are partnered with bracelets and rings with similar
themes (peacock feathers, geishas..) that use original stamps dating back to the fifties.
MOMIJIYA – The original patterns of Japanese kimonos have always inspired collections
by Momijiya, the ex kimono laboratory that is now a cult boutique, point of reference for
fashionable young Japanese. For a/w 2008-09 the key word is “Nippon”: traditional patterns
meet up with shades of black and pink and light up dresses, accessories and also baby
overalls.
SAKURA’ – The ancient tradition of Japanese kimonos combined with tailoring skills
and design made in Italy. Traditional dresses in pure silk, embroidered and hand-painted,
ceremonial kimonos are little works of art with input from the designer, who preserves the
cut's geometric structure and follows existing lines and decorations. Alongside this limited
series there is a line of garments that rework this style in more accessible fabrics.
ARTISAN MANUFACTURE
LEAPIOPERAIE – Knitting stitches, woven fabrics, artisan seams carried out by a
group of ladies with needles. Focus on evening bags for a line of entirely handmade
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accessories, made with all-Italian raw materials, never more than 3000 pieces every season,
numbered and certified by a label giving detailed information about the relative collection,
production number and hours of work.
LIDIA TOMKOW – Cloaks, stoles and outerwear with the treasures of artisan
manufacture enhanced by the virtuous combination of precious fibres, wools and velvets,
with leathers and embellishments in the form of crochet, fringes and embroidery.
VIVE LA DIFFERENCE – Focus on the sophistication of these leathers, with artisan
treatment on the finished garment. Classic shapes on bags and jackets take on a modern
energetic feel with a creased look for comfort. Colours echo the smells of the cold season: the
deep brown of damp wood, the shades of the frozen leaves and the wet black of tarmac.
LUXURY BAGS
BRACHER EMDEN – Spotted on the arms of Beyoncé Knowles, Cameron Diaz and Eva
Longoria, the “drama bags” by this couple of British designers soon appeared in prestigious
window displays at Selfridges in London and Henry Bendel’s in New York. Exotic leathers,
chains and Swarovski crystal details make these clutches a pure distillate of London luxury,
whose natural habitat is cocktail dresses.
HAKKIN.IT – White gold, the translation of the brand’s Japanese name, presents the
Wilde line: one-off pieces entirely in crocodile or alligator, cut and stitched by hand. Matt
crocodile and alligator are teamed with the sheen of cotton, treated with polyurethane
materials and clever hand-weaving. The collection expresses a luxurious style also in pochettes
for everyday use, practical and lightweight and in travel bags.
VDL – Glam design plus rock details on bags seen as luxury accessories for city life by day
and night. The gold of the zips, gleaming finishing details and autumnal shades are interwoven
with the colours of the metropolis: from cognac and green to the more decisive shades of grey
and black. This season's protagonist is patent, on maxi-bags or pochettes in various
colours: plum, black and green.
MICROSCULPTURE DESIGN
ALESSANDRA CALVANI DESIGN – Jewels like micro-sculptures with a decisive
geometric style, recognisable due to cuts and materials used. Laser-cut methacrylate is
combined with ebony and other natural kinds of wood, satin-finish burnished silver with
artisan-imprint elements.
B. PAOLETTI FIRENZE – A precious miniature to be worn, which changes clothes to
suit the occasion: the doll principle of the Eva P collection. A metal body, in yellow or pink
gold, in sterling silver and in burnished silver, is covered with little tailor-made dresses in the
widest range of colours: bodices either enamelled or encrusted with black or white diamonds
or with Swarovski crystals.
LAURENT GANDINI – The cult of the Saints, the rites and myths of ancient popular
superstition are the inspiration for a contemporary reworking of the Italian jewel from the
eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Motifs and decorations recall the lightness of lace and the
simplicity of flowers.
NORTH EUROPE
MELY’S – Soft enveloping shapes form a romantic Anglo-Saxon dream that sees the lead
role filled by cashmere blended with silk, alpaca, linen and hemp. Knitwear becomes a
lifestyle, inspired by cold places and green lands under a leaden sky. Sweaters are fastened
with large safety pins and brooches that mould fit. Green, black, purple, burgundy and ecru
dominate the colour card.
SADO’ – An explosive mix of influences for an adventurous journey through Russia,
London fashion register and Italian luxury. Carlotta Gherzi, a young designer with Italian
origins who grew up in Russia and today lives in London, develops her idea of prêt-à-porter in
a feminine total look, made up of iridescent fabrics, draping and volumes that follow the body.
TJELMA – Siberia, Lapland and Alaska: the Arctic culture and landscape dominate this
collection by Lisa Winkel, a young Finnish designer based in Berlin. Jackets, trenches and coats
choose Austrian loden or English poplin; baby alpaca and mohair are used for knits inspired by
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Nordic patterns and accompanied by hand-knitted accessories, snow-white shirts in organic
linen and moiré dresses and skirts.
CASHMERE FIXATION
ANITA VIOLA - Capillary attention to a study of weights for an evolved range of
cashmere knitwear. From super-light cashmere for T-shirts and tops, via exclusive stretch
cashmere for sweaters and dresses, through to heavier weights for outerwear and accessories.
While geometric prints bring to mind Art Déco decorations, with lively unexpected colour
combinations, tie-dye effects light up ponchos, jackets and pashminas.
PARRONCHI CASHMERE – With the determination of Barbarella and the grace of
Madame Butterfly: dedicated to the image of a chic delicate yet laidback woman, this is a
cashmere knit collection that includes elements in fine wool and refined silk and velvet fabrics,
through to more casual materials like leather and fleeced cotton.
PASHMERE – Only precious pure pashmina cashmere and traditional multi-ply
cashmere, moulded into fluid dancing shapes like the lightest of light feathers: material
transformed into an impalpable cloud of unusual shades. Dyed using natural ecological extracts
to give the surface a frosted effect. The colours, mainly foggy blue, foggy violet and foggy
green, are obtained by mixing grasses, flowers, fruits and roots and are reminiscent of
imaginary places.
VINTAGE PATINA
POST&CO – Made in Italy and studied design blend in a collection of belts and accessories
that combine fine inserts in python and crocodile, antique-effect leathers with special
washes, micro laser engravings and manual stitching.
RICCARDO FRECCIA BESTETTI – Cowboy boots and their sporting allure are the
inspiration for the models in a new collection of boots and shoes built to last. The smart
derivation of the characteristic Texan boot for which this company is famous, this line stands
out due to its round toe, low heel and the use of fine kudu leathers from African
antelopes, which like brushed horse-skin is given a typical aged effect.
TOMOKO TOKUDA – Jewels created from ideas gleaned in antique markets. Essentially
geometric shapes – circles, rectangles, squares – team up with linear chains and metals such
as brass, bronze, aluminium, silver, iron or resin and crystal.
IRONIC PATTERNS
BEAYUKMUI – Twin-set with printed micro skulls, little dress in silk with skulls, little
sweater in purest cashmere decorated with the punk teddy bear: strong pieces of an
ironic refined collection in impalpable luxury yarns. New ideas for this season include the
introduction of leather garments, rabbit furs and jogging suits.
ULTRACHIC – The fabulous world of the circus is inspiration for next winter’s ironic new
collection: the picturesque protagonists of ultra-light cashmere T-shirts are Viola the human
cannonball, Diego the little elephant and the detective clown. Alongside fun clothes for lion
tamers, diamonds, tartan and a crowd of clowns on bikes make these cashmere sweaters
unique.
NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES
CEE BEE – Paper bags that are the children of the recycling philosophy. Unique pieces
made from the pages of fashion magazines or geographical maps, newspapers, cartoons or
even old yellowed sheet music. Cults include the Comics-forever versions, which put together
editions of Donald Duck and Mickey Mouse from the past and Black and White, made from
editions of Vogue.
SANDRA DI GIACINTO – Humble everyday materials – recycled cardboard, coated with
pvc, reinforced with metal or canvas, heat-pleated - are used to create accessories inspired by
graphic art, perfectly at ease in museum art shops. Pages from newspapers, assembled and
treated with a special resin, provide colour on plissé bags in soft fake leather, reminiscent
of the robes of ancient sculptures.
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A KNITTED TALE
BUONCOSTUME – Total look for all seasons applied to knitwear: from socks to hats, from
bags to the trouser-skirt right through to the coat, via the little dress. A triumph of
volumetric leaps and the layering trend: plenty of room for all the different variations
on a theme of leggings. Yarns include extra-fine combed merino wool, thick carded wools
and wool-mohair blends, while large curly bouclés, worked to precise geometries, shake the
order of wools.
JOHN SMEDLEY – A range of knitwear that sees a triumph of noble fibres like
cashmere, merino, silk and linen and develops around the themes Paint Box, Phantasma
and Underground. A versatile mix of contemporary lines, loyal to the archives and high
technological performance for the new collection by the brand founded in Derbyshire way back
in 1784.
SARTORIA VICO – Total contamination of shape, function, material and wearability for a
line of all-season knits made in Italy, which periodically combines historic garments in
reworked colours and fabrics with new concept-products. The cult pieces, all in pure merino
wool, have characteristic names like sweater-muff, sweater-tummy, hood, big scarf,
waist-warmer and gaiters.
RETRO STYLE
ELSAEMMA – Sophisticated cuts, precious fabrics with texture and handmade philosophy give
shape to garments with a past flavour. Italian fabrics and noble yarns in dusty shades:
blue, grey, beige, pink, cream and powder. Little dresses in Milano-rib knit team with the
silks of little vintage shirts, while warm meltons feature in jackets, skirts and trousers strictly
with high waists and open-work cashmere livens up cardigans.
CHIC APPEAL BY DE PIO – Velvets, vintage lace and little flowers stand out in relief on
tights that are never conventional. Autumn is the inspirational climate for the collection with
the warmth of its colours: mustard yellow, pinky violet, reddish brown, beige and aubergine.
SCHIESSER REVIVAL – Focus on refined details for underwear from past times. From
soft yet strong elastic with blue turnbacks to little waves to ruffles with Valenciennes lace on Tshirts, from extra-fine mercerised cotton to needle-out and fine ribs. Cuffs stand out, refusing
modern hems in favour of old flat-beds that are then machine-finished.
INNOVATIVE SCARVES
ARCIERI – The pure cashmere-crocheted scarf with buttons and the version with
inserts in denim, leather and silk: products created and patented by this knitwear
brand, to be teamed with the other must-have from the collection, the 100% cashmere jacket,
entirely handmade and crocheted.
CLAUDIO CUTULI – Scarves in anti-felting cashmere, water-repellent stoles that use
the principles of aromatherapy: these are the strong points of a collection enlivened by
geometric patterns in a series of rhythmic sequences and with optical-effect shapes that
double into multiples and sub-multiples.
CORNICI – Cloaks, scarves and stoles in cashmere with an exclusive feature that sees this
precious yarn worked in gauzes and chiffons. Absolute new entries include accessories in
pure cashmere lace. Leather fringes, feathers and fur embellish the items.
SKILFUL CUTS
masnada – The “masnada” line recalls the skilful style of the Antwerp school: from
attention to cuts and patterns to care taken with finishes and stitches borrowed from hardly
used artisan methods that are only feasible for non-industrial quantities. Protagonists of the
palette are muddy colours with grey and brown, black and natural white, lightened by the
insertion of dark blue and grape.
KAYLEE TANKUS – A collection with an avant-garde feminine spirit, drawing its appeal from
the cuts and lines of Oriental tradition: dresses that undulate across the body,
enveloping coats, jackets in decorated leather. Contamination of different effect materials
for black blazers and tuxes reworked in a modern key and single-colour dresses that gently
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slide over the hips. Symbol items include a versatile body-embracing dress, perfect for any
occasion: sexy with strategic cuts on the shoulders and with comfortable volumes.
NON-CONVENTIONAL TRENCHES
ReRo DESIGN – From Blade Runner to Breakfast at Tiffany’s: this is the brand’s imagination,
already very well-known for its characteristic tailored-cut trench in recyclable pvc. An allseasonal piece with a pop cosmopolitan accent, to wear with irony almost as if it were an
accessory, choosing from plain neutrals or lively colours and tartan or Prince-of-Wales
patterns.
HERNO – “Cocktail-glam” is the name of the limited edition of 12 exclusive trenches.
Precious and strictly in black, they range from the rainproof techno-fabric version entirely
encrusted with jet and sequins to one covered in pheasant feathers, right through to the tuxtrench with lapels in silk satin. These trenches will be sold by 20 exclusive shops worldwide.
HI-TECH UNDERWEAR
COSABELLA— Bamboo is the name chosen for the new line of lingerie and loungewear in
bamboo fibres blended with micro-modal. Eco-friendly garments for everyday wear: soft
cool fabrics that make the wearer feel good, thanks to this fibre’s natural qualities, but also
thanks to the properties of the minerals in the bamboo pulp: from moisture absorption to antistatic, from odour-prevention to a permanent anti-bacteria effect.
JACQUES SCHIESSER – Things intimate restyled in an outerwear version: cashmere
cotton and silk wool sweaters with soft comfortable cuts. The silky feel of pure extra-fine
mercerised Giza cotton, dedicated to the most sophisticated line of underwear. The autumn
palette turns towards the shades of brick, green and dark brown.
WINTER JOURNEYS
BEYOND MILANO – A concept of urbanwear dedicated to stories of great journeys, a
design developed between leisure destination and metropolitan context. Clean-cut simple lines
and constructed cuts are applied to top-of-the-range materials taken from the tradition of
made in Italy. The palette is oriented towards the contrast of non-colour with the shades of
black, grey, brown and white.
FEZBAG WORK & TRAVEL PROJECT - Hamburg, Antwerp, Malaga and Taksim are the
places visited in the winter collection by this patented project. Bags that stand out thanks to
the side-adjustable shoulder strap: short to carry under the armpit, or long and off the
shoulder in a citywear version. Cult pieces include Square and Post, unisex in the true sense of
the word.
GI’N’GI – Accessories dedicated to a winter trip to Innsbruck, visiting museums, shops and
cafés: from the big canvas bag to the hat in heavy wool or leather, right through to the
suede shopping bag that is also perfect for evenings, together with cashmere coordinates in
the shape of muffs, scarf, cap, maxi sweater or mini-dress.
SOPHISTICATED VOLUMES
m/m by MASAYUKI MARUKAWA - "All things start from 1mm" is the philosophy of
this Japanese brand that sees the millimetre (the collection is called "milli") as the
smallest and most fundamental unit when making clothes. The point of arrival of research by
Marukawa, who for 8 years worked with Yohji Yamamoto, are airy energetic silhouettes,
constructed yet comfortable garments that “breathe” and guarantee extremely natural allure.
SS6 - Generous soft lines overlap with daring cuts: volumes become oversize in the
geometric structures of outerwear and in cloud-effect mohair sweaters, becoming finer in
mini pullovers and micro-dresses. Diamond geometry is the origin for a series of hyperconstructed garments in cashmere, while soft mohair that looks almost fluffy, generates
swollen volumes.
VIOLA SPIECHOWICZ – “Progressive bodywear”: dresses that capture the air
through movement and coats with architectonic construction, the result of formal
observation of our surroundings. A world populated with sculpture dresses featuring futuristic
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cuts and cocktail dresses at times softened by severe shoes, where careful study of draping
and volume effects are teamed with bright textures and big-impact colours.
Milan, 21 February 2008
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