Marlinespike - Introduction
Marlinespike is the art of seamanship that includes the tying of
various knots, splicing, working with cable or wire rope, worming,
parceling, serving and even making decorative ornaments from
rope or line.
The name marlinespike is derived from the tool that is used for
splicing. It can be a tapered metal pin or carved of wood.
Once a rope is onboard a boat and is given a specific purpose, such
as dock line, halyard, etc. it is called a line, not a rope.
Although you won’t be asked to actually tie a knot for your USCG
License exam, you should be familiar with several knots, know how
to tie them, how to recognize them and be able to explain their
use. Also, if you are going for a 100 ton Masters license you will
need to know about wire rope, breaking strengths, block and tackle
(pronounced taykle), etc.
Marlinespike - Types of Rope Construction
Types of Rope Construction
Rope is constructed in two basic ways, laid and braided, although there are
variations on the theme.
The first is "3 strand" line. The
direction of twist is called the lay of
the rope. Three strand twisted line
can be "laid" right or left, and should
always be coiled with the lay of the
line. This rope is described as S-laid
(left-laid) or Z-laid (right-laid)
according to whether the twist
follows the line of the center part of
the letter S or Z. Most three strand
rope is Z-laid (right-laid) If you hold
a length of 3 strand right-hand laid
twisted line at arm's length and
eyeball it, you will see the wrap of
the line twisting to the right.
The construction of stranded line,
whether natural or synthetic, is
much the same. Individual fibers are
twisted into yarns, the yarns are
twisted into strands and the stands
are twisted into line. Right-laid is twisted clockwise and left-laid is twisted
counterclockwise. The fibers are twisted in the same direction as the strands,
however the yarns are twisted in the opposite direction. This right, left, right for
right-laid line helps give strength, keep the line from kinking and hold its
shape.
The other construction type is braided line. This type of line does not stretch to
the degree that twisted line does, and is more difficult to splice. However, it
goes through a pulley or block very well because of its rounded shape, and is
stronger than its equivalent-sized twisted line. Braided line also tends to snag
when used as docking line if the pilings are rough.
A variety of braided lines are available:




Braid on Braid has a braided core inside a braided sheath - will stretch
less, and has less flexibility, than a hollow braid.
Multibraid is braided with 2 pairs of Z-laid and two pairs of S-laid strands
– it is flexible and does not kink.
Parallel Core has a braided sheath over a core of straight or lightly
twisted yarns – it is very strong.
Hollow Braid has no core – is very flexible but can flatten during use. It
is only found in small sized rope.
Marlinespike - Rope Materials
There are many materials used today to make rope; synthetic fiber, natural
fiber and wire. The most popular is nylon, a synthetic. It is strong, holds up well
to the weather and stress, and coils without kinking. Line is also made from
natural fibers like cotton and hemp (manila), and other synthetic fibers such as
dacron, kevlar, and polypropylene.
Polypropylene line is the least expensive of the synthetic lines, however, it
deteriorates quickly from ultra-violet rays and wear. It is not a good line for
dock line because its hard surface tends to slip from cleats and can cause cuts
if it runs free through your hands. It floats, so it is good for rescue lines. It is
also appropriate for ski lines, dinghy painters, short mooring pendants or other
applications where you want to be able to see the line on top of the water. Not
for use as dock, anchor or towing lines.
Nylon rope has a lot of stretch (up to 40%) and is very strong for its size,
allowing it to absorb shock loads well. However, when it is wet it can loose up
to 25% of its strength. It wears well, resists mildew and rot, and does not float.
Nylon three-strand is the preferred line for dock lines since it stretches
sufficiently to dampen the shock of wave action and wind against your cleats.
Just make sure it does not stretch too much for the situation in which you use
it.
Polyester rope wears better than polypropylene, is almost as strong as Nylon,
and retains its strength when wet. It does not stretch as much as Nylon and
does not float. Polyester (such as Dacron) is used for sailboat running rigging,
anchor rode, towing lines and other applications where you don't want line
stretch to interfere. It will, however, chafe easily so check it often and protect
as necessary.
When cutting synthetic rope, prevent the ends
from fraying with a temporary binding or
whipping. Synthetic rope ends can be sealed by
melting, either with a special heat tool for the
purpose of cutting and sealing (as shown in
photo), or by melting over a flame to fuse the
fibers. Adhesive tape wound around the ends
can be a temporary binding. Small line ends
can be dipped into acetate glue or a
commercial "liquid whipping" material. Plastic
heat-shrink tubing is also available.
Synthetic lines are lighter and stronger and
more rot-resistant, generally, than natural fiber
ropes. Synthetic lines are slipperier than natural fiber ropes so be sure to check
your knots to make sure they are secure. Synthetic lines should be cleaned with
fresh water and detergent, kept out of sunlight, inspected frequently for chafe,
and stored dry.
Natural fibers such as manila, sisal, hemp and cotton will shrink when they
get wet and also tend to rot or become brittle. Manila is still used today on
large ships and is the best natural fiber for mooring lines, anchor lines and as
running rigging. Manila has a minimum of stretch and is very strong. However,
it has only about one-half the strength of a comparable-sized synthetic line.
Natural fiber line should be uncoiled from the inside of a new coil in order to
prevent kinks. Always whip or tape the ends of natural fibers to keep them
from unraveling. When natural fiber lines have been in salt water you should
rinse them in fresh water and allow to dry thoroughly. They should then be
properly coiled and stored on grates above deck in a dry, well-ventilated place
to help prevent mildew and rot.
Marlinespike - Rope Breaking Strength
Each type of line, natural fiber, synthetic and wire rope, have different breaking
strengths and safe working loads. Natural breaking strength of manila line is
the standard against which other lines are compared. Synthetic lines have been
assigned "comparison factors" against which they are compared to manila line.
The basic breaking strength factor for manila line is found by multiplying the
square of the circumference of the line by 900 lbs.
(900 lbs. X circumference2 = breaking strength)
When you purchase line you will buy it by its diameter. However, for purposes
of the USCG license exams, all lines must be measured by circumference. To
convert use the following formula.
Circumference = p PI (3.14) X diameter
As an example, if you had a piece of ½" manila line and wanted to find the
breaking strength, you would first calculate the circumference. (.5 X 3.14 =
1.57) Then using the formula above:
1.572 X 900 = 2,218 pounds of breaking strength
To calculate the breaking strength of synthetic lines you need to add one more
factor. As mentioned above, a comparison factor has been developed to
compare the breaking strength of synthetics over manila. Since synthetics are
stronger than manila an additional multiplication step is added to the formula
above.
(comparison factor X 900 lbs. X circumference2 = breaking strength)
Following is a comparison factor chart for synthetic lines.
Line Material
Comparison Factor (greater than
manila)
Nylon
2.5
Dacron
2.0
Polypropylene
1.4
Using the example above, let’s find the breaking strength of a piece of ½" nylon
line. First convert the diameter to circumference as we did above and then
write the formula including the extra comparison factor step.
2.5 X 1.572 X 900 = 5, 546 pounds of breaking strength
Knots and splices will reduce the breaking strength of a line by as much
as 50 to 60 percent. The weakest point in the line is the knot or slice.
However, a splice is stronger than a knot.
Just being able to calculate breaking strength doesn’t give one a safety margin.
The breaking strength formula was developed on the average breaking strength
of new line under laboratory conditions. Without straining the line until it parts,
you don’t know if that particular piece of line was above average or below
average. Next we will discuss safe working load.
Marlinespike - Rope Safe Working Load
Knowing the maximum safe working load for line can help prevent accidents
and tragedies. You should never stress a line anywhere near its breaking
strength. As line is spliced, stretched, wears, is subjected to sustained loads,
shock loads, loads of many times the recommended working load, subjected to
great heat or ultraviolet light for long periods of time it will continually loose
some of its strength. Each line should be inspected prior to using it in extreme
load conditions and if chafe, excess dirt, cut or worn strands, stiffness or
hardness are found the line should not be used.
Important: Do not allow anyone to stand in line with, or within 45
degrees on either side, of a line under tension. Should the line part, the
recoil force may cause serious injury.
Safe working load is generally thought of as no more than 1/5th of a line’s
breaking strength. Said another way, the breaking strength should be five
times the weight of the object the line is going to hold. You are not expected to
memorize the tables below but you should remember this 5 to 1 safety rule.
You should always choose a line with its intended safe working load in mind.
The American Boat and Yacht Council has published charts of safe working
loads for various types of line and are outlined below.
American Boat and Yacht Council Safe Working Load (in pounds)
3 strand twisted line and single braid line
Diameter
Circumference
Manila
Nylon
Dacron
Polypropylene
1/4
3/4
120
182
182
213
5/16
1
160
281
281
232
3/8
1 1/8
216
407
407
459
1/2
1 1/2
424
704
704
714
5/8
2
704
1144
1100
1054
3/4
2 1/4
864
1562
1375
1445
7/8
2 3/4
1232
2200
1980
1955
1
3
1440
2750
2420
2380
American Boat and Yacht Council Safe Working Load (in pounds)
Double braided line
Diameter
Circumference
Nylon
Dacron
1/4
3/4
420
350
5/16
1
680
560
3/8
1 1/8
960
750
1/2
1 1/2
1630
1400
5/8
2
2800
2400
3/4
2 1/4
3600
3000
7/8
2 3/4
5300
4800
1
3
6260
5600
Marlinespike - Terminology
Bitter end:
Standing
part:
Bight:
Turn:
Crossing
Turn:
Loop:
Splice:
the free end of a line
the longer part of a line which is fixed during the tying of a knot
The part of the rope between the end and the standing part. A loop
formed by folding the rope back on itself
a loop formed around a post, rail, or the line itself
a circle of rope made by crossing the rope over itself
a circle of rope made by bringing two parts of the rope together
without crossing them over each other
weaving strands of a line to itself or to a second piece of line
Whipping:
wrapping twine or tape around line to line’s end to prevent unraveling
Seizing:
wrapping twine or tape around two lines to bind two parts of line side
by side
Worming:
laying smaller line in the spiral grooves (with the lay) between line
strands
Parcelling:
winding strips of canvas over, and in the same direction as, worming
Serving:
winding small line against the lay and over worming and parcelling to
protect line from chafe and water damage
Flemish:
to make a Flemish coil by taking the end of a line and laying it in a
tight flat spiral on the deck. Used to "tidy" up and keep line neat
Faking:
laying a line on deck in a series figure eights so the line will run free
without tangling
Flaking:
Short splice:
Long splice:
Eye splice:
Thimble:
Back splice:
laying out line on deck in parallel rows. Don’t confuse with faking.
the strongest way to connect two lines. This splice has 6 strands in
the cross section and is thick and may not run through a block
the strand of one line replaces the strand of the other line. The size of
line is kept the same however, and it is weaker than the short splice
stronger than any knot in forming a loop in a line
a metal or plastic form inserted in the eye splice to prevent chafe
splicing a line back on itself to prevent unraveling - it like the short
splice has a cross section of 6 strands and may not be able to be
pulled through a block
Eye:
A loop made in the end of a rope either by knotting, seizing or
splicing.
Coil:
Rope made into a neat series of loops or circles, usually for storing.
Worming, parcelling and serving are words left over from the old days when most line
was made of manila. However, you may see these words used in the USCG exam. The
purpose is to prevent chaffing of the line and keep water out to control rot.
Remember this rule: Worm and parcel with the lay; turn and
serve the other way.
Marlinespike - Line Handling and Stowing
Neatness counts, especially because it’s also safer. Don’t throw lines in heaps
about the boat. They’ll kink, tangle or jam when you need them and you and
your passengers are likely to trip over them.
Get into the habit of coiling your lines when they are not in use, and flemishing
any lose ends on deck or dock. There is a good reason for this (besides looking
good): stepping on a loose line can be like stepping on a marble, while stepping
on a flemished line is like stepping on a mat. It also protects your lines from
unnecessary (and unsafe) wear and tear and helps preserve the lay of twisted
rope.
Twisted rope should be put into round coils. Right-laid rope, as most twisted
rope is, should be wound clockwise, while left-laid rope should be wound
counter-clockwise. Preserving the lay of the rope in this way will make for line
that coils easily and plays out smoothly.
Braided rope has no preferred direction and often loops into figure eights
naturally. This will also run out smoothly.
Stowing the line
Take three or four feet of line from the back of the coil and make three turns
around the coil. Pass a loop of the free end through the top of the coil. Pass the
free end through the newly created loop. Take the loop over the top of the coil
and pull the free end to fasten. The free end should hang slightly longer than
the coil so it can be located quickly.
Another method better suited for storing the line in a rope locker is to double
the end of the completed coil to form a long loop. Pass the loop, in a clockwise
turn, around the head of the coil, passing the end of the loop under its own
midsection. Take another turn around the coil to the left of the first one and
tuck the end of the loop under this second turn. Pull tight so that the end of the
loop stands free and can be used as a hanger. Again, make sure the free end
hangs down a bit so it can be located quickly.
Tips . . .
Chafing (repeated rubbing of an area of the rope against an abrasive surface)
will greatly weaken the line and make it unable to bear strain. Protect the line
from chafing by sliding a snug plastic tube over the area that comes in contact
with a dock or other surface. Alternatively, cover the surface with a smooth,
sturdy material.
Tying knots or hitches in the same place often will cause that part of the line to
weaken. Occasionally switch the line ends (like rotating your tires) and try to
tie knots and hitches in different areas of the line. Prolonged exposure to rust,
dirt, sand or mud deteriorates rope. Any stiff or hard lines should be replaced.
Whichever lines you choose to use make sure they are kept out of the sun
when not in use, clean, unfrayed, dry and coiled neatly. Don't leave knots in a
stowed line for long periods of time. To clean rope, scrub it with a solution of
liquid soap and water. Dry completely before storing.
A line under tension, especially nylon line, can be a lethal weapon if it, or what
it is attached to, fails. The line will recoil with a force that can cause serious
injury and/or damage. Keep your lines in good condition, replace them when
worn and always monitor lines under stress. Do not allow anyone to stand in
line, or within 45 degrees on either side, of a line under stress.
Marlinespike - Knots to Know
As mentioned earlier, if you are planning to take the USCG license exam you
will not be expected to actually tie knots, however, you will find several
questions concerning the names of knots and their intended use. Following is a
graphic that you may see when taking the exam and you will be asked to
identify the different knots pictured.
This illustration was taken directly from the U.S. Coast Guard exam prep
materials. Knot W, as illustrated, is a thief knot, not a square knot as it is
identified in the text. Thanks to Robert Kibitz for noticing this!
E: Timber hitch and half hitch: used for hauling timbers.
F: Round turn and two half hitches: use to permanently tie up to a piling.
G: Fisherman’s bend AKA anchor bend: used to tie a rode to the anchor.
H: Becket or sheet bend: used to tie lines of different sizes together.
I: Bowline on a bight: used for rescuing a person by putting a leg though each
loop if conscious or if unconscious put both legs through one loop and the chest
and arms through the other.
J: Plain whipping: a quick way to whip the end of line.
K: Sailmaker’s whip: requires a sailmaker’s needle.
L.: Double blackwall hitch: for attaching a line to a cargo hook.
M: Carrick bend: for connecting two large hawsers.
N: Stopper: a length of line attached to running with a rolling hitch in order to
relieve strain on the running rigging.
O: Barrel hitch: for lifting barrels.
P: Rolling hitch: used for fastening a line to a spar.
Q: Bowline: the king of knots. Used to form a temporary loop in a line. Won’t
slip or jam under strain.
R: Double sheet bend: used to secure two lines of different diameters.
S: Blackwall hitch: used to attach a line to cargo hook.
T: French bowline: used like a bowline on the bight for rescue.
U: Half hitch: a turn of line around an object with the bitter end led back
through the bight.
V: Marline hitch: used to lash canvas to a spar.
W: Square knot AKA reef knot: used to connect two lines of different diameters.
X: Clove hitch: use to temporarily attach a line to a piling. Can come loose
unless it is followed by a half hitch.
Marlinespike - Useful Knots and Hitches for Boaters
Bowline
Anchorbend
Sheepshank
Cleat Hitch
Clove Hitch
Round Turn & 2 Half
Hitches
Bowline - "The Boater's King of Knots"
If you're only going to learn one knot this season, here it is. The bowline is a
very versatile knot. It is used to form a temporary loop in a line which may
then be put over a piling or cleat. It can also be used to attach a line to an eye.
This knot won’t slip or jam and can be untied easily.
Marlinespike - Hitches - Anchorbend (aka Fisherman's Bend)
For securing a line to an anchor or buoy.
Pass the working end of the line through a ring
from front to back to form a round turn.
Bring the working end down and behind the
standing part. Bring it over the standing part and
through the round turn to form a half-hitch around
the standing part.
Bring the working end down and behind the
standing part.
Then bring the working end over the front of the
standing part and under itself to form another halfhitch.
Tighten the knot by pulling on the working end and
the standing part.
To make it more secure, or to form a more
permanent hitch, the short working end can be
seized to the standing part.
Seizing is a method of binding two pieces of rope
side by side.
Marlinespike - Hitches - Sheepshank
A sheepshank can be used to shorten a length of rope or to take the strain off a worn area
of rope. The worn area must be in the center turn of the knot so that the tightened outer
turns bear the weight.
Start with three crossing turns that are all in the same direction. Pull the left center crossing
(L) through the middle of the left crossing turn from the front, while pulling the right center
crossing (R) through the middle of the right crossing turn from behind.
Pull on the loops you just formed and then on the standing parts so that the outer crossing
turns tighten around the loops.
This knot will only hold when strain is applied to the standing ends. If the line becomes
slack, the outer crossing turns will loosen and the knot will fall apart.
Sheepshank Man o' War
More secure, and certainly more decorative, than the sheepshank, this version starts with
four overlapping crossing turns (all in the same direction).
Pull the right center strand (R) through the right outer turn from back to front and the left
center strand through the left outer turn from front to back.
Marlinespike - Hitches - Cleat Hitch
Take the line to the ear of the cleat furthest from where the line comes from
(the load). Take one wrap around the base of the cleat and then start a figure
eight across the top of the opposite ear. Finish with a half hitch turned under so
that the line is coming away from the cleat in the opposite direction from which
it came in.
Marlinespike - Hitches - Clove Hitch
Used to temporarily tie to a piling, this knot can come loose. You may add a
couple of half hitches to make it more permanent. This knot is simply two loops
with an end tucked under.
If you can reach the top of the piling, an alternative way to tie a clove hitch is to
follow the instructions below and then slip the loop over the piling and tighten.
Marlinespike - Round Turn & Two Half Hitches
Used to permanently tie to a piling, mooring or ring. Take a full turn around the object being tied to and
take two half hitches around the line itself.