Katie Foreman -1- 3/8/2016 Fashion E-tailing Vs Retailing Dissertation – DE0449 Katie Foreman Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University Katie Foreman -2- 3/8/2016 Contents Introduction 2 Chapter 1 – The Internet Revolution 3 Chapter 2 – Case Study – Boohoo - $135 7 million, 18 months…a dot com story from concept to catastrophe Chapter 3 – Data Collection – Comparing 15 E-tailing and Retailing Chapter 4 – The Expansion of E-tailing 21 Introduce One Way to Shop Chapter 5 – A Good Experience Makes 29 Retailers Profit Chapter 6 - Retailers and E-tailers have 38 contrasting advantages in the Fashion Industry Conclusion 42 Bibliography 44 Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University Katie Foreman -3- 3/8/2016 Fashion E-tailing Vs Retailing Introduction This dissertation is a study on fashion e-tailing verses retailing. Analysing the ways they compete against each other to dominate the consumer market. The Internet made a major impact on the world, especially when it started to evolve around 1996 and retail companies started to look into this new phenomenon. The fashion world also has been progressing along side the rising popularity of using the Internet; exploring the world into a whole new medium. Research suggests fashion e-tailing and retailing have been competing against each other since fashion took up this new medium. This has had a major impact on fashion branded companies around the world. Shop retailers began to feel under pressure, as if they were at risk of being usurped by the Internet as more and more companies turned to online etailing. The ‘fashion e-tailing Vs retailing’ war began. It was a rough start for many e-tailing companies; trying to workout the best strategy for getting suppliers onboard and enticing consumers to shop online rather than in retail shops. In doing so many retailers felt their profit margin was being jeopardised; part of their consumer base started turning to online stores. Retailers were then faced with the task of creating an unforgettable retail shopping experience. Further research should support the argument of whether fashion e-tailing is taking over from fashion retailing using secondary data and testing, along with a case study on boo.com; the rise and fall of the company. Collecting primary data; conducting a questionnaire asking people where they prefer to shop online or on foot in the shops, will also show to some extent what people want. Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University Katie Foreman -4- 3/8/2016 Chapter 1 The Internet Revolution The Internet revolution began in the early 1990’s. Mosaic web browser was setup in 1993 by Marc Andreessen, Eric Bina and others whilst working at the University of Illinois in America; in the National Centre for Super Computing (NCSA). They setup something that had never been seen before; using imagery, text, video and audio to build a graphically impressive interface for the Mosaic web browser. However it was not until 1994 when the Internet first began to attract the attention of the public. The web was finally coming to life; people started calling it a web explosion. As Mosaic developed it soon changed its’ name to Netscape. “Mosaic was a major catalyst in revolutionising the world. It helped cause the Web to explode, and ultimately, the Internet to go commercial.” Sean MacLennan, 2007 Netscape have now been usurped in popularity by Internet Explorer which is now used as the main browser by people surfing the web all over the world. 1995 was the beginning of the dot com bubble. Internet companies started appearing everywhere; with a sudden surge young entrepreneurs setting up e-tailing business’. Investors were constantly handing out money. The bubble burst in 2000; companies failed to strive amongst their competitors and fell apart, whilst others such as Amazon pulled through and proceeded with their success. By 1996 many general trade companies were beginning to develop a desire for being on the Internet, which was increasingly becoming a low cost, easy way of publicising a business. The Internet explosion started in America; they were ahead of Europe in their advance of technology. The Americans predicted that by the year 2002 the Internet would become a Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University Katie Foreman -5- 3/8/2016 three hundred billion dollar sector; already the amount of Internet traffic was doubling every one hundred days. Launching in 1995 Amazon became a leading e-tail company swiftly over taking many of its competitors. Founded by Jeff Bezos the online bookstore gained one hundred orders within the first day. “Amazon.com Inc. was the poster child for the new Internet economy with its dynamic, young chief executive and highly valued stock.” Frey, Cook, 2004 (Seattle Post-Intelligencer Reporters) By 1998 Amazon launched its music store and continuing its success the company has now progressed to sell DVDs, games, sports and leisure equipment and much more building on its success in the online industry and expanding its consumer base every day. Amazon did encounter rough patches along their journey; scraping through the so called ‘bursting of the dot com bubble’ they came across a major decrease in their profit margin. However once Bezos started thinking he found the answer; he cut expenses, lost many of his work force and transformed into an online portal in addition to the store. “Amazon transformed itself from a specialty retailer into an online shopping portal, taking a cue from auctioneer eBay, which set itself up as a mediator between buyer and seller. It started selling products from companies such as Toys "R" Us and Target on its Web site. It added merchandise from smaller retailers in its zShops. And it competed directly with eBay through its Amazon Auctions.” Frey, Cook, 2004 (Seattle Post-Intelligencer Reporters) As Amazon grew alongside other e-tailers the fashion industry started to investigate the idea of fashion online. It was the late 1990’s when fashion started to appear on the Internet, this amazing revelation got many people excited about the prospect of buying their fashion clothes from the comfort of their home and getting their hands on designer Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University Katie Foreman -6- 3/8/2016 labels which they were unable to purchase. This was due to store location and travel expenses to reach them. Boo.com was the company who brought this notion to life, spending millions of dollars they become the true entrepreneurs of fashion online. Boo will go down in history for its determination and courage throughout the Internet revolution however they will mainly be remembered as the fashion company who lost $135 million dollars in eighteen months. “Everything about boo was big. It was going to be the first global sportswear site, it was going to use cutting edge technology, it had attracted more investment than any other Internet start-up in Europe, and it had already burnt up a lot of money.” Cellan-Jones, 2003, p.63 Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University Katie Foreman -7- 3/8/2016 Reference List: Cellan-Jones, R. (2003) dot.bomb – The strange death of dot.com Britain. Great Britain: Aurum Press Ltd, p.4 Frey, C. Cook, J. (2004) Available at: http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/business/158315_amazon28.html (Accessed: 8 January 2008) p.3 Sean MacLennan (2007) Available at: http://seanm.ca/mosaic/ (Accessed: 7 January 2008) p.2 Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University Katie Foreman -8- 3/8/2016 Chapter 2 Case Study – Boohoo - $135 million, 18 months…a dot com story from concept to catastrophe. Two minds, bags of imagination, enthusiasm and inspirational ideas, Ernst Malmsten and Kajsa Leander set out to make a major impact within the Internet sector; making their mark on the revolution of fashion on the Internet. The dot com bubble had begun and they wanted to be ahead of all other competitors wanting to conquer the Internet. Enabling people to get what they want when they want it, for a low cost and with efficient delivery from any corner of the world. Coming from Sweden Ernst and Kajsa were well aware of the technical advance America had over Europe and their aim was to bring Europe up to speed. They began their entrance into the World Wide Web in 1996 with a simple bookstore web site named Bokus; selling a wide variety of books to students studying in Sweden. A few mistakes were made and after getting too deeply involved with too many share holders and investment bankers, Ernst and Kajsa decided to sell their stake in the business, however they did agree to stay on as consultants for Bokus. This whole experience helped them both to become young Internet entrepreneurs with a millionaire status. They were now ready for a really ambitious project. Time had passed by and by 1998; after taking some well deserved time out Ernst and Kajsa were ready to expand their minds. Kajsa had an extremely ambitious idea. She had discovered a dark area of the Internet which needed to be explored. Fashion had barely reached any form of status on the Internet. Kajsa wanted them to go global, selling clothing and fashion accessories to anyone and everyone that wanted them; for a low cost with an efficient, free if possible, delivery service. Ernst reluctant at first, later agreeing to this new venture with a lot of enthusiasm, took all of this information onboard; deciding that they must get started straight away. Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University Katie Foreman -9- 3/8/2016 The pair; Ernst and Kajsa took on an investment banker whom had helped them during the Bokus sale; Patrik Hedelin. They needed someone to handle the financial side of the business and between them they decided, due to past experience he was perfect for the job. Patrik showed immediate interest and the three of them joined together to form a strong partnership; of which Patrik would be the CFO (Chief Financial Advisor). After a lot of gruelling research they decided to focus their website on major sports and fashion brands suited to people all over the world. The first hurdle the team came to was trying to get suppliers onboard; many of the shop retailers thought that the internet was going to take over from their shops which would lead to their businesses being closed, therefore they were not willing to agree to supply there good for boo.com to sell online until other well known retailer were onboard. It was June 1998 when things started looking up as Partik received a call that would get the company off the ground. JP Morgan; one of the most influential banks in the US, had agreed to become their main investment advisor/bank, although they were based in New York they also had another branch situated in central London. All that needed to be discussed now was the launch date. When would boo.com be launched all over the world? May 1999 was the target they gave themselves, now all they had to do was meet it. This was a tasking thought for the team as they wanted to create something new, something which had never been seen before; using 3D models of fashion items, revolving 360° to show all aspects of the design, and using a virtual sales person named ‘Miss Boo’ to take the user on a whole new shopping experience, it was going to be a journey the Boo team would never forget. Step by step they began to acquire their suppliers including New Balance, North Face and Converse, using their best presentation skills to pitch their ideas for this global revelation. “Because the Internet is global and can reach customers anywhere, anytime. We will jointly market with suppliers to help strengthen brands.” Malmsten, Portanger and Drazin supported the views of Kajsa Leander, 2002, p.52 Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University Katie Foreman -10- 3/8/2016 Failing to get Nike onboard was a major let down for Boo. Nike had decided to wait until after the launch to make any decisions. To Boos’ surprise Nike was later seen signing a deal with Internet sporting retailer Fogdog. After many months of trying to win over Nike there was still no sign of success. Late September arrived and Ernst, Kajsa and Patrik joined by Thomas Paulmichl; of JP Morgan, met with Ericsson who gave a presentation of how they could be the technical team Boo would need. They were sold. However this relationship did not last long; due to junior staff with lack of experience Ericsson were soon replaced. A lot of meetings were beginning to accrue and it became apparent that executive assistants were needed to help out. Ernst employed Edward Griffith; ex-researcher of new Internet technologies. Kajsa employed Martin Bartle; ex-marketing director of a small Internet company and Patrik employed Charlotte Neser; ex-manager of Isis (university magazine). They all started work in early November and by early December the team had acquired a small office on Carnaby street, Soho. Gathering investors day by day as the team had managed to get billionaire share holder, Bernard Arnault of LVMH onboard as their lead investor. Boo.com was to become something which had never been seen before using new, novel ideas; people outside the company did not understand what this new, online retail website was going to be like, but they were eager to find out. Ernst, Kajsa and Patrik began hiring consultants, technical experts and buyers. The workforce soon reached a team of over one hundred in London alone, not accounting for those working in the offices elsewhere in Europe and New York. With the business coming together Boo needed to be established in the fashion and computing industry. Heading the advertising and promotions department Kajsa wanted up-to-date, quirky designs for adverts and online magazines. Initially employing a design company called Leagas Delay to handle this she was unhappy with the work they were Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University Katie Foreman -11- 3/8/2016 producing and soon replaced them with BMP; a division of DDB; one of the worlds’ biggest advertisement agencies. They employed the ‘geek/chic’ approach to design. “Instead of showing top sports people, boo’s ads would show geeks trying to be sporty and failing. We’re trying to say that boo.com is where sports meets the computer world. The geeks have found out about the sports by buying their clothes from boo.” Malmsten, Portanger and Drazin, 2002, p.130 supported the views of Jeremy Craigen Jeremy Craigen then gave Boo its slogan; ‘boo.com sports and streetwear on the net’ As ads went out and interviews with top magazine Vogue and weekly magazine Woman’s Wear Weekly, Ernst, Kajsa and Patrik were becoming well known and global consumer interest began into the journey of Boo and when this new use of technology was to be launched. Receiving positive feedback following the interviews the Boo team was pleased, although they were beginning to worry that they would not reach their launch date. As the 1st May passed people were disappointed globally. The pressure built up, the workforce expanding; thousands of dollars were being spent on staff wages. Cracks in the company had begun to appear as investors were unsatisfied with Patriks’ performance handling the finances; he later stepped down as CFO and took on a much smaller post within the company. Despite Boos’ failure to launch in May they were still receiving good feedback from write-ups in newspapers and magazines. People were still showing interest and were very excited about this new idea and the notion of having a virtual sales person to help them make the right fashion decisions. “boo.com’s dinky retro-graphics made me feel right at home. With zippy five-day deliveries, 3D/360-degree product viewing, styling advice from Miss Boo the virtual sales assistant/model, plus boo.magazine due to be launched online later in the year, we think Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University Katie Foreman -12- 3/8/2016 we’ve seen the future of fashion.” Malmsten, Portanger and Drazin, 2002, p.195 supported the views of Wallpaper Magazine More investors were needed to keep Boo afloat. New offices were opening in France; the company was huge, and still Boo had not launched. 1st November 1999 was set as the new launch date, Ernst and Kajsa wanted to find and resolve any underlying problems with the website before the launch. In order to do this they decided to start a ‘soft launch’ on the 5th October; to be accessed purely by friends and family. The site used the disguise web address of www.vodkagrapefruit.com. Slowness and a few technical issues were raised and tech teams attempted to improve and amend these problems previous to the launch. The official launch of boo.com was late; occurring at 8:59am on the 3rd November 1999. The moment many people had been waiting for had arrived and by 3pm there were twenty-five thousand visitors, but only eighty orders were made, which was a disappointment to the team. Following the launch user feedback stated two main faults with the site. The first being that those with a Mac computer were unable to make a purchase; the site made the computer crash. This was resolved within two weeks. The second being slow download times. Sales slowly increased and within the first week boo.com received six hundred and nine orders. The technology used for boo.com was so advanced and expensive to run; cut backs had to be made as they were rapidly running out of money. One hundred and thirty one people lost their jobs as the online magazine was dropped. Sales were not increasing as hoped; many people were not used to using the Internet, especially not for shopping for clothes. Despite all the excitement and build-up to the launch something was holding customers back from buying online. Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University Katie Foreman -13- 3/8/2016 Ernst and Kajsa could only wonder if the support of Nike would have helped them reach success, but this was something they would never find out. They were struggling financially. The companies’ structure needed a complete rethink. Sitting down to work out their next plan of action they decided Boo was more like two separate companies, serving different purposes, they were to be split. The first being boo.com as the online retail shop and the other as a global retailing platform, shipping products anywhere in Europe and the United States within five working days, handling in excess of 1500orders per day. This company was named dolphin.com. The workforce was cut dramatically leaving a team of seventy working for boo.com and team of one hundred and ten working for dolphin.com. This did increase their sales, but it was not enough. Offices had closed everywhere apart from those left in the London offices and they had hit a financial crisis. Boo needed at least twenty million dollars to keep the business up and running. Managing to get twelve million they were on their way but no further progress was made. The liquidation of the company began, they were bankrupt and the dream came to an end. ‘Boo collapses as investors refuse funds, 18th May 2000.’ Malmsten, Portanger and Drazin, 2002, p.386 supported the views of Financial Times Lessons have been learnt from the trials and tribulations of Ernst Malmsten and Kajsa Leander. Spending $135 million in eighteen month their company did not succeed in the online fashion world. Ernst and Kajsa simply spent far too much money on unnecessary items. They tried to become too big too fast. They spent thousands starting up an online magazine called ‘Boom’, which soon had to be scrapped due to lack of funding. The technology the used was far to advanced for its time and cost millions of dollars to run. Running there business into bankruptcy the Boo team failed to realise that they may have been more successful having aimed lower; only have one unusual, desirable feature and build up to what they had imagined in the beginning, rather than developing a website which was not financially feasible. Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University Katie Foreman -14- 3/8/2016 Progression through advanced technology has now seen many companies succeed as various fashion e-tailers make more profit each day they are running; although the majority of e-tailers still have not developed their sites to use the technology boo had aspired to create. Some consumers now look to the Internet before they consider the traditional retail shops however others still prefer the whole experience of retail shopping over online shopping, will one take over from the other, or are they equal in terms of popularity? Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -15- 3/8/2016 Reference List: Malmsten, E. Portanger, E. and Drazin, C. (2001) Boo Hoo; $135 million, 18month… a dot.com story from concept to catastrophe. London: Business Books, p.7, 9, 10, 11 Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -16- 3/8/2016 Chapter 3 Data Collection Comparing E-tailing and Retailing The underlying conspiracy still stands as to whether or not the online shopping experience has taken over from the experience people get doing their shopping on the high street. Chris Nuttall (1999) an Internet Correspondent, carried out some extensive research into this subject. In the early stages of his research Nuttall found that there had been many contradictions, as a survey by Dell; the computing company suggested ‘more than three million households would buy their Christmas presents off the net’, whilst BT Click commented ‘only 20 per cent of the population used the net.’ Following Nuttalls’ research into other peoples findings, he decided to carryout a test of his own; ‘The Oxford Street Test’, conducting a comparison between doing your Christmas shopping in the crowds and the rain of West End London or doing it online. Nuttall chose three different presents: a My Little Pony figure, a book; Glenn Hoddles’ World Cup Story and a satin camisole. The following comparisons were made: My Little Pony figure – in the famous Hamleys toy store Nuttall found a huge choice in what he could purchase. There was a brilliant interactive element to the experience; the toys could be held and played with. However this was not possible with all of the toys as there were so many people. The My Little Pony cost sixteen ninety nine in Hamleys store. The Hamleys Internet store was quite good however there was not as much choice. He did find the My Little Pony and it was the same price with no delivery charge. Glenn Hoddles World Cup Story – Nuttall loved the experience of browsing around Waterstones bookstore; handling the book and having a sneaky read and scan through the books. Although some of the books were discounted this one was not, it was seventeen ninety nine. Online Nuttall logged on to www.amazon.com where he found the book for more than seven pound cheaper. He ordered it, with delivery charge, gift wrapped with a Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -17- 3/8/2016 message for an additional two pound. Resulting in there being only a two pound thirtytwo saving. The satin camisole – Nuttall felt embarrassed in Dorothy Perkins looking for a camisole for his wife. He saw that the price was twenty-eight pound and left the shop without buying it. Online the camisole did not look as appealing as it had in the shop and it was the same price with an additional one pound ninety-five delivery charge. He ordered the camisole online. The following day Nuttall received a letter explaining that the item was out of stock and he had not been charged. This was a disappointment and rather annoying that this fact had not been expressed whilst the order was being made online. All in all Nuttalls’ test proved there to be advantages and disadvantages of shopping online and in the retail shops; savings were made, however the experience of browsing round the store was lost, embarrassment was prevented, but the item was never received, others had a very similar outcome. There is a significant difference between the two types of shopping; each proving popular with different people for various reasons. This will be discussed in further detail later. In order to collect some more data a short survey/questionnaire was prepared. Around two hundred people were targeted; one hundred male and one hundred female asking the same questions; hoping this would provide a better view of how people like to do their shopping and which experience they prefer. They were asked to answer the following questionnaire: Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -18- 3/8/2016 Questionnaire - E-tailing Vs Retailing Sex: Male Female Age: 16 – 24 25 – 30 31 – 50 51 + If you had the option would you rather use an online model which could be adjusted to your size (weight/height/hair/eye colour) to try clothes on and see what they look like, or go into a shop, find an outfit and try it on in person? Online In the shop Would you or have you ever been too embarrassed to buy something in a shop so you bought it on the Internet? Yes No Do you find items cheaper on the Internet rather than the shop, including delivery charges? Yes No Which items would you be more likely to shop for on the Internet? Clothes Electronics Books/Dvd/Cd Accessories Would you say would buy more fashion items off the Internet rather than in the shops? Yes No Would you use the Internet to shop rather than the retail shops at a busy time of year such as Christmas? Yes No Which do you prefer the online shopping experience or the high street shopping experience? Online High street How many times a year do you use Internet shopping? Weekly Every other Monthly week How many fashion websites do you know of? 1 or 2 5 to 10 10 to 20 Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Once or twice 20+ Northumbria University katie Foreman -19- 3/8/2016 After the results had been collected there was a reasonable spread throughout the age groups. However the majority (approximately eighty percent) of the people were under the age of fifty; this did not affect the results as the answers given by those over fifty were very similar; they did not know how to use the Internet. A massive one hundred and eighty eight people found it very undesirable to use a virtual model to try on clothes; they preferred the physicality of trying them on in a shop. Reflecting back on Nuttalls’ survey; how some items can be embarrassing to purchase, this questionnaire backed-up his theory as seventy of the individuals asked confessed to buying items online due to embarrassment. E-tailing did win the ‘price battle’; one hundred and ten people did find items a lot cheaper on the Internet including delivery charges. Ninety of which were men. Although this did seem to be because they were purchasing electrical equipment, books, DVDs and CDs rather than fashion clothes and accessories; only forty eight people said they would purchase clothing from the Internet. An enormous one hundred and eighty people would buy fashion items in the retail shops rather than online, given the option. The questionnaire also shows that fashion websites can exists without many people realising they are there as twenty people only knew of one or two fashion websites, ninety three knowing of five to ten, sixty five knowing of ten to twenty and only twenty one who knew of more than twenty sites. Drawing from the results, the impression given is that although e-tailing has taken off in a big way for many companies selling books, DVDs, CDs and electrical equipment the fashion e-tailing companies still have a long way to go in order to compete with e-tailers such as Amazon. Fashion e-tailers are progressing slowly; introducing the virtual model and using various ‘pull’ factors, enticing customers to use their websites to shop, pushing their attention away from the retailers. Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -20- 3/8/2016 Pull factors are used by both retailers and e-tailers; they are what boosts their sales and makes the customers want to return to their store or website. Pull factors are seen by places advertising sales; ‘50% OFF’, ‘Everything MUST go!’ For retailers carrier bags, shop windows and bill boards are a great way of advertising sales. E-tailers can use flyers; handed out in the street, web banners which appear when a person is surfing the web, seasonal mailings to previous customers and newsletters. The more pull factors the better, good presentation and customer service all adds to what will pull a customer to shop in a certain place. Push factors are the reason for the failure of some companies; bad presentation and customer service, no given incentive for the customer to return, resulting in very little customer satisfaction. E-tailing and Retailing both have a lot to offer. How does each succeed and which really has the most control over the fashion industry? Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -21- 3/8/2016 Reference List: Nuttall, C. (1999) Available at: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/special_report/1998/12/98/ecommerce/236118.stm (Accessed: 10 August 2007) Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -22- 3/8/2016 Chapter 4 The Expansion of E-Tailing Introduces a New Way to Shop Companies from Europe were finally beginning to understand that online shopping may eventually take over traditional retail markets, becoming a more profitable business sector to work within in the late 90’s. It was a new era, with the Internet having a sudden surge in popularity, challenging the dominance of traditional retail shopping; the ever growing e-tailing business was taking off; doubling their sales each year. “What is new is that fashion and style now circle the globe as fast as news does. The best example of this new globalisation is found with teenagers. Teens literally feel more at one with other teens elsewhere in the world than they do with adults in their own house. Teen fashion trends and styles are global.” Pooler, 2003, p.159 Zoom; was a new fashion company using the Internet in 1999, which began by developing a website which concentrated on ‘the brands of its parent’ - The Arcadia Group had now taken over changing the domain of the website from www.zoom.co.uk to www.arcadiagroup.co.uk. The managing director of Zoom, Eva Pascoe quotes: “Zoom is about opening up the Internet to a wider audience who want benefits but until now have seen it as technically too complex to be relevant to their everyday lives.” Pascoe, 1998 The Arcadia Group is a website which acted as an arcade for fashion, allowing users to locate and link to seven of the leading high street retail websites; Burton, Top Shop, Top Man, Miss Selfridge, Evans, Outfit and Wallis. Users can then buy gift vouchers, check for recruitment in the stores and also look at press relations of the companies. This is a very easy method of getting where you want to the Internet. The Arcadia Group has made an operating profit of three hundred point six million; implying a strong site with a huge market in the e-tailing business. Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -23- 3/8/2016 Some companies started to give up on their quest to becoming an e-tailing business as well as or rather than a retailing business due to technical advances; these advances were happening globally as technology was changing so quickly, people were falling behind. Some companies proceeded with their online developments working out pull factors for their website to compete with the high street retailers. Many people are constantly aware of the way they look and how they portray their individual fashion sense. Many people have been known to keep up to date with the latest fashion trends by logging on to the Internet. Researchers have understood that more people; mainly women, are using the Internet to keep up to date rather than browsing through magazines. This theory has been found to have increased over the past four to five year. Fashion e-tailers can frequently update their website, making sure that they are ahead with the current fashion trends. "Mail order has failed to change or diversify sufficiently to appeal to today's more demanding and sophisticated home shopping audience and Mintel believes that the situation is largely the same across Europe. Home shopping retailers must admit that the days of the big book are over and that the great hope of the home shopping industry is, or should be, the Internet. The trouble with the mail order industry at the moment is that it tends to see the Internet as a threat, where it should be seen as an opportunity. The Internet is still seen by many as an exciting, new and convenient way to home shop, while catalogues are often seen as old fashioned and downmarket," Perks, Available at: http://www.pindar.com/ecommerce/archives/000237.html Perks expresses the threat the internet is having on other retail companies. It has already made an impact in decreasing the sales of catalogues; the online store is vastly becoming more desirable to many women in their early twenties to late thirties, than a large, heavy book. Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -24- 3/8/2016 E-tailers have an advantage over retailers as they simply update their site in a matter of minutes, some websites even keep old stock online, available to customers and present the up to date fashion trends in a different section named ‘new in’ or ‘just arrived’. ASOS is a fashion website developed purely for e-tailing purposes and has become a major success. Deidre Molloy (2006) suggested that ‘brand marketing is the holy grail’, ASOS have increased their market using email marketing; connecting with their customers via email; letting them know about their order and track it until arrival. The pull factors used by ASOS are to have discounted items, which is a very common factor of fashion websites, the other is that they sell fashion items by linking some of them to celebrities, for example ‘Polo Drape Back Dress in the style of Mandy Moor’. A certain level of the market is inspired by the cult of celebrities. Making some believe they can look like those in the spotlight. ASOS offer a wide range of brands; appealing to a variety of market levels and merchandise. The site offers clothing to two audiences; one named ‘The Collection’; reasonably priced fashion clothing and accessories, from as little as £5, some of which are in the style of a celebrity, and the other named ‘Premium Collection’ offering designer clothing, such as jeans by Rock & Republic. The e-tail store caters for all selling fashion clothing and accessories for both men and women and a small collection of home and beauty gifts. Not all of the websites which started up during and towards the end of the dot com burst in 2000 became failures. Boo.com tried and failed to conquer the Internet fashion sector. Others succeeded without losing $150 million. Net-a-Porter.com was one of the few successes. “It was always my dream to be able to click on images in a magazine and buy. I think Net-a-Porter is as close as it gets.” Borrelli, 2002, p.100 supported the views of Natalie Massanet Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -25- 3/8/2016 This is the main concept behind the website; the whole design of the website resembles that of a catalogue e.g. the layout, trying to make shopping online a more exciting experience. Net-a-Porter.com launched in 2000. Right at the end of boo.com failing they were launching a site which also sold luxury fashion items, including many top designer names, selling at full price; also offering a delivery period of forty-eight hours for consumers anywhere in the world. Shopping in retail stores can be seen as an experience which consumers do not get when shopping online. Online shopping offers a different experience, which is felt when receiving your purchase; presentation is everything and a nicely wrapped purchase can be just as exciting to open as browsing the shops for the perfect gift. “Christian Louboutin recalls first seeing Net-a-Porter’s distinctive black boxes arriving at his friend Daphne Guinness’ house in London. “They were all packaged like presents,” He said” Horyn, 2005, supported the view of Christian Louboutin Ever since Loubutin made that observation the site has sold many of his branded fashion items. With help from social and fashion contacts; including Jimmy Choo, Natalie Massanet saw Net-a-Porter survive the failures in 2000, getting a big break in 2002 when the chief executive of Chloe; Ralph Tolendano agreed to her wishes of selling their products on her website. Accumulating hundreds of orders the website became a hit, without the help of Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -26- 3/8/2016 any retail shops, they became and still are a well known high class fashion e-tailing company. What is more beneficial to a company and to the consumer shopping online or in the store? Past research has found that there are many benefits for a person who wants to become an e-tailer rather than a retailer. “This new mode of shopping exploits the power of the Internet. Rather than having a traditional catalogue to shop from, Web shoppers literally have the world at their doorstep.” Pooler, 2003, p.171 In some ways e-tailing is just an online catalogue; transferring from mail order to e-mail order, both resulting in the purchases made being delivered straight to the door. Nevertheless over the past decade there has been a growing trend with people shopping via the Internet. “Usage of search engines continues to grow at a remarkable clip. Between March 2004 and March 2005, the number of searches performed at search engines grew a whopping 45 percent. Avid searchers are more likely to be buyers, according to comScore. Users who are "heavy searchers" a group that makes up just 16 percent of the online population, spend a hefty 35 percent of total online dollars. "Medium searchers," a group that comprises 23 percent of the Net population, spends a substantial 34 percent of total online dollars” Maguire, 2005 Going online fashion from around the world is at your fingertips. There are no travel costs and no hassle waiting in queues, pushing your way through busy crowds (especially at hectic times of year such as Christmas). In addition Internet shopping offers a twentyfour hour service; for all those people who work during the week and by the time they finish the retail shops are often closed. Shopping from the comfort of your home at your Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -27- 3/8/2016 own convenience from what was going to be a three hour frantic shopping trip can convert into a relaxed three minute wonder. “While a catalogue and a store can be limited to a set number of pages and items, a website is limitless. It can have as many pages as the e-tailer wants.” Pooler, 2003, p.171 E-tailing is advancing its technology everyday. Allowing the online privilege of using a virtual model, people can now see what they would look like wearing a garment of their choice. The leader in the market for virtual models is a company called My Virtual Model Inc; progression in technology has brought the virtual model from a simple figure with the ability for the user to adjust the size accordingly to a model with your own personal features; giving a unique look to each profile. “Users can now superimpose a photo of their own face onto their 3D virtual model. This application meets the expectations of fashion shoppers who for years have been asking for more realistic avatars. Using The Face, they can now personalize their virtual selves and achieve greater satisfaction in their shopping and social experiences.” My Virtual Model, 2007 Within the consumer market for shopping online these improvements have shown a major increase in the users of virtual models; as they become realistic they become more desirable to shoppers. “My Virtual Model Inc., which now employs about a hundred people, has been setting the standard for virtual identity since 2000” My Virtual Model, 2007 Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -28- 3/8/2016 The virtual model creates a new online shopping experience through three steps of; ‘Dynamic 3D model creation’; creating the size of the model e.g. waist, height etc. ‘Mix and Match and save with ‘My Favourites’’; saving garments on the model to a personal profile and ‘Garment and Outfit recommendations’; suggestions of other purchases to add to an outfit. This all creates a fully rounded experience making shopping online more than just browsing through web pages. Fashion e-tailers have a lot of advantages over retailers; they are global and do not need to spend thousands renting shops to do it. “A bricks-and-mortar store has a limited geographical range. Customers have to travel to the store and the total number of potential customers is therefore limited by geography.” Pooler, 2003, p.175 Many e-tailers try to be as simple as possible; user friendly, making the consumer feel like they are in charge. Contact details can be given, expressing that personal touch that some people need; this can be added to a purchase by e-tail companies following up a purchase with a confirmation email, and supplying them with regular updates on their delivery. E-tailers will often store a customer’s email, enabling them to send seasonal mailings, newsletters and advanced sales notices, this keeps the customer in the ‘fashion loop’, giving them extra information. This is an extra privilege, not received following a purchase made in a retail store. The Internet can offer fashion items that may have been considered out of reach due to location issues and travel costs. Consumers with no time to shop can do it online; preventing any hassle and having your purchases delivered to their door. Which is the most preferred way to shop, the most desirable, enjoyable experience? The competition is fierce, have e-tailers got the edge? Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -29- 3/8/2016 Reference List: Borrelli, L. (2002) Net Mode; Web Fashion Now. London: Thames & Hudson, p.22 Molloy, D (2006) Available at: www.nmk.co.uk/article/2006/04/04/fashion-digital-lense (Accessed: 10th August 2007) Horyn, C. (2005) Available at: http://www.iht.com/articles/2005/12/15/business/porter.php (Accessed 15 December 2007) p.23 Maguire, J. (2005) Available at: http://www.ecommerceguide.com/news/trends/article.php/3524581 (Accessed:16th January 2008) p. 24 My Virtual Model (2007) Available at: http://www.mvm.com/press.php?id=1196442274&lang_id=en (Accessed: 17 December 2007) p.25 Pascoe, E. (1998) Available at: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/special_report/1998/12/98/ecommerce (Accessed: 15 December 2007) p.20 Perks, R. (Director of Retail Research at Mintel.) Available at: http://www.pindar.com/ecommerce/archives/000237.html (Accessed: 2 December 2007) p.21 Pooler, J. (2003) Why We Shop; Emotional rewards and retail strategies. London: Praeger, p.20, 24, 25, 26 Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -30- 3/8/2016 Chapter 5 A Good Experience Makes Retailers Profit Shopping can be a good experience or a bad experience for the consumer. Since the etailing revolution began, retailers have to step up their sale strategies. They need to revive traditional shopping, giving the consumer an experience they will want to repeat. Much research has been conducted in this field; exploring retail shopping from every possible angle. “Not only is shopping melting into everything, but everything is melting into shopping. Through successive waves of expansion – each more extensive and pervasive than the previous – shopping has methodically encroached on a widening spectrum of territories so that it is now, arguably, the defining activity of public life.” Inaba, Koolhaas, Leong, 2002, p.29 Although internet shopping has taken off throughout the past decade people are still wondering ‘why has shopping become such a major pert of our existence?’ An obvious answer to several women would be that it has become more of an activity of leisure and entertainment; similar to the experience of going to the cinema or on a night out with friends, many describe shopping as ‘magical.’ Anthropologist Victor Turner1 has completed research into the act of a person going shopping and he states that it is an event of religious significance; a ‘ritual’; entering a shop and becoming completely immersed in the whole experience. Some people live to shop they become addicted to it and feel it’s the only thing that will make them happy. It is like a release for them, making them feel free from worries they may have. Others enjoy shopping; it makes them feel good and shopping becomes something a person can look forward to and get excited about. 1 Moss, 2007, p.1 supported the work of Victor Turner Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -31- 3/8/2016 Retail shops of all kinds including fashion shops have started to take the experience of shopping to the next level. For example the FAO toy store in New York not only sells toys, but allows customers to interact and relive their childhood, playing tunes on the gigantic piano on the floor; jumping from one key to another. Customers can also play with some of the toys and see what’s new. Retailers want to expand their consumer base by making shopping an entertaining experience. They all use similar strategies such as the use of spinning signs, flashing lights, thumping music, video screens, interactive kiosks/games, play houses and some even have day care for kids and in store cafés for all those ravenous shoppers. Most retailers believe they can fight against online e-tailers who are trying to take over the fashion consumer by setting up online stores with discounted offers and home delivery. Many state that e-tail stores are destroying the shopping experience, the feel and look of the clothes when you try them on can no longer be grasped and the ability to wonder, and sensuality to browse through various clothes racks is lost. From the window displays to the carrier bags, retail shops are excelling themselves; making every aspect of their shop count towards the overall result. Manipulating the size and scale of display boards, signs and decorations; their main intention to ‘WOW’ the consumers as they enter the store. Making sure all needs are met to a high standard. Urban Outfitters is a fashion retail shop with branches all over the world. In the authors experience it appears that in the New York branch, they strive to please their consumers using quirky layouts for the clothing racks, shaped shutters separating different sections of the store, popular music playing throughout, and a comfy seating area for anyone to relax and take a break, maybe browse through a fashion book. (Urban Outfitters sell more then just clothing). Time can fly by; hours pass without realising it as consumers are immersed in the shopping environment. Theorists have looked at the art of shopping from different aspects; comparing shopping in supermarkets to department stores; examining how each emits a completely different experience for the consumer. Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -32- 3/8/2016 “Department-store shopping was leisured, middle-class, metropolitan. Supermarkets and self-service, the great retailing innovations of the twentieth century, came from the opposite directions. Instead of luxury, they offered functionality and standard products; instead of the pleasures of being served, consumers could congratulate themselves on saving money by doing the work themselves. Food shopping was associated with necessity and routine, whereas department stores had promoted a sense of goods that engaged new desires and possibilities, out of the ordinary. It was the difference between going shopping – an open-ended, pleasurable, perhaps transgressive experience – and doing the shopping, a regular task to be done with the minimum expenditure of time, labour and money.” Moss, 2007, p.37/38 supported the views of Bowlby, R. Department stores seem to be increasingly aware of the need to impress and attract a wide consumer base. Stores such as Harrods and Bloomingdales develop amazing exhibitions and mounted displays, which coincide with each season of the year or the highs of the fashion industry. Retailers are mimicking this by adding quirky backdrops to the dressed manikins to pull the consumers in, with their best outfits and accessories on display; expressing the trends of the time and how to wear them. Lauren Foster analysed how Selfridges, London, has been a major success in making shopping an experience to remember; utilising performance arts, having celebrity appearances, sculptures and innovative designs to recreate the passion of shopping. “We are trying to assault everyone’s senses in as many ways as we can. We’re in the entertainment business to some extent. It is not just the other retailers that we are competing with. We are competing for leisure time.” Moss, 2007, p39 supported the view of Williams, P. (CEO of Selfridges) Various high street stores have caught on to the celebrity appearance and fashion range being a key pull factor for the consumer market. Top Shop have promoted themselves using a new designer range from Kate Moss; as her new collections reach the shelves she Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -33- 3/8/2016 visits the major stores where millions of eager shoppers queue for miles to see the star and buy her clothes. 'M by Madonna' is the new fashion range which has arrived in H & M, the customers were taken aback by the timeless, unique and always glamorous style. Celebrities do attract a huge consumer base although this is not due to the physical necessity of the consumer it is mainly about personal satisfaction. Past research has found that people do not necessarily buy fashion items because they need them; ‘two thirds of everything bought is unnecessary.’ People impulse buy, sometimes giving them an adrenalin rush, however most of the time items are purchased because they are expensive or carry a designer label; this makes a person feel better about themselves, giving selfbelief that they are impressing others and showing off with their new clothes. To retailers the brand their company holds is their most valuable asset. The brand also becomes the companies’ status within the fashion industry; using brand association each is given a label. For example Louis Vuitton and Prada are known as expensive brands associated with celebrities. “The consumer may be shopping to show off his/her personal success, to achieve a sense of self respect, or to fulfil deep, inner psychological needs. That audio system, or those designer jeans, may carry an outrageous price tag, but they also fulfil some profound emotional compulsion that the shopper has.” Pooler, 2003, p.2 An individual’s fashion sense can make a statement about their personality, grouping them into certain stereotypes. Retailers need to accommodate this by evaluating their product line; if they are selling grungy, skater clothing they need to make their shop design replicate their product, this will entice the consumer into the shop making them feel like they are in a familiar environments, giving them the freedom and comfort to browse at their own leisure. This is called strengthening the brand; increasing brand sales and most importantly the profit. “Women do 75 percent of all shopping. That tells us a lot about the nature of retailing and the direction that marketing should take.” Pooler, 2003, p.5 Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -34- 3/8/2016 This concerns mainly women those who like to indulge in self satisfaction and the pleasure which browsing through the shops provides. Retailers investigate the consumer trends, needs, wants and desires when they are designing their shop layout. For example department stores such as Debenhams and John Lewis have the cosmetics department right at the front of the store, why? “Shopping becomes much more than an activity we carryout in order to acquire goods and services. In fact, it becomes the most central event in people’s efforts to define themselves as human beings. Self-definition is one of the most pivotal functions of shopping.” Pooler, 2003, p.2 Some theorists believe most women have a psychological need to look good and an essential asset to this is make-up. Cosmetics pull in the consumer, standing under to spot light each brand with an individual section, invites the customers to browse, test and purchase. “Cosmetics play a central role in self-definition for women. While there are general societal norms and expectations to which most women adhere, there are also opportunities to make statements about the self.” Pooler, 2003, p.47 As the e-tail market started to take off smaller retail shops began to renew their sales/marketing strategies. Retailers strive on creating a positive image for their store, making it a memorable experience, which is an asset most websites do not have. As research has shown; looking back to Nuttalls’ survey, many people tend to shop in shops before they even consider shopping online. Therefore the retail shopping experience needs to be one to remember. “Research by Jupiter Communications, Inc., a worldwide authority on internet shopping, shows that 39 percent of shoppers indicate that they would shop with online merchants Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -35- 3/8/2016 with whom they had previously shopped through stores or catalogues.” Pooler, 2003, p.184 Regular shoppers develop a mental mind map of their shopping routine and environment; enabling them to know exactly what shop they need to go to in order to purchase a particular item. Therefore first impressions when a consumer enters a shop are vital. People will automatically associate stores with their prices and quality of clothing. For example ‘Primark’ is associated with extremely cheap prices, but their clothing is not very good quality. ‘Reiss’ is a store known for expensive clothing with excellent quality fabrics and manufacture. The difference between the two is extremely evident, however both carry a large customer base as they each target a different audience; the first for students and people who want fashionable clothing for a cheap price, as they will not wear them much, and the latter for people with a lot of money who prefer good quality clothing which will last or an outfit for a special occasion. “The level and quality of service you deliver to your customers is vital to your company's success. Your customers' total experience with your company and your staff dictate whether your company will succeed or fail...whether you will be profitable or not.” (http://www.ishopforyou.com/New_to_mystery_shopping.html, 2006) (Accessed: 18 December 2007) Retailers also have to consider their store location. A store needs to be clearly accessible; somewhere shoppers will constantly pass by, creating walk-in traffic, which can lead to impulse buying from unexpected customers. This is only a minor piece of the retail puzzle; the layout, lighting and product presentation also has to be taken into account, impressing consumers as they step though the door, offering them a shopping experience that a website simply could not give. All Saints, retail store (1.1), are an excellent example of this. They have succeeded in providing a great new shopping experience, exclusive to them. From entering the store customers become immersed in a new shopping environment; browsing the racks of top Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -36- 3/8/2016 fashion items, whilst tapping your foot and singing along to the sound of a great band playing live in store (1.2). Performances from new bands such as: Salon Boris and Eskimo Disco. 1.1 1.2 1.3 Well known artists such as The Fratellis (1.3) and Babyshambles have entered and performed in their early days in All Saints stores, providing the retailer with a major pull factor; attracting a huge consumer base. It is not just a shopping experience it is a concert and shopping experience rolled into one. The Internet cannot offer this experience through online e-tailing; viewing a band whilst shopping and listening to one are worlds apart in terms of experience. Analysing the All Saints website implies that the companies main aim is to attract customers to shop in the store; the homepage uses a very innovative design; shown in images 1.4/1.5/16: 1.4 1.5 1.6 The main links on the site are ‘The store locator’, ‘News and Events’ (what is happening in store) and ‘All Saints Presents’ (artists seen in store). The link to the online store is set aside, along with contact details. This implies All Saints main priorities are in their retail stores, although the website creates an interesting navigation experience, with backing music it is not as pronounced as the experience given in store. Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -37- 3/8/2016 “An appropriately thought-out location strategy is imperative for the success of retail businesses. The location decision is perhaps one of the most important ones that a business will make.” Pooler, 2003, p.162 Retail strategies are growing every day; giving that extra push to try and win over a major part of the consumer market; deferring their attention away from shopping online back to shopping in store. Delving deep into peoples’ train of thought, trying to give the consumers what they want; meeting their every need from self-definition to selfsatisfaction; some people find it satisfying to reward themselves, if they complete a task or do a good deed buying themselves something can make them feel better about themselves. This creates the best possible environment for a perfect days shopping in the most desirable location. A lot of thought is going in at every level of retail shopping, but can they entice their consumers back? Or were they never lost? Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -38- 3/8/2016 Reference List: Inaba, J., Koolhaas, R., Leong, S.T. Edited by: Chung, C.J. (2002) Harvard Design School Guide to Shopping. Taschen, p.28 Moss, M. (2007), Shopping as an Entertainment Experience. U.S: Lexington Books, p.30 Pooler, J. (2003), Why We Shop; Emotional rewards and retail strategies. London: Praeger, p.31, 32, 33, 34 http://www.ishopforyou.com/New_to_mystery_shopping.html (2006) (Accessed: 18 December 2007) p.33 Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -39- 3/8/2016 Chapter 6 Retailers and E-tailers have contrasting advantages in the Fashion Industry The battle for victory continued as E-tailers and Retailers went head to head to win over the fashion industry. Following the destruction of boo.com retailers started to feel like they still held the power. Not all of the companies who received funding failed like boo, although they may have been the only fashion website to start at this time. Once E-tailers successfully took off in the fashion industry they found themselves with an advantage which retailers could not emulate; to run their business successfully they required one team of staff, a single website, accessible globally, giving a massive consumer base for a low cost. Retailers require teams of staff, to run multiple stores, in various locations all leading to the company having a smaller consumer base at a higher cost. Building on this advantage retailers needed to energise their stores, giving the customers what they want. “Retailers are becoming ever more obliged to make stock rotation an almost constant process, and stock is seen to expire at an ever quickening pace.” Pooler, 2003, p.160 As fashion trends are constantly changing many retailers find it difficult to keep up, renewing their clothing range each week can be a time consuming task. However some do, which automatically produces a higher turnover rate for their store. To do this successfully retailers have to put a lot of thought and effort into their shop layout; how the lighting can brighten the appearance, attracting the eye of the consumers, whilst engaging their attention to the ‘now’ trends. In the fashion retail industry this is seen as the ‘green grocer principle; the products have fulfilled their shelf life and are then replaced by the new. Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -40- 3/8/2016 Using stock rotation retailers are offering consumers the same produce as the e-tailers; with the advantage of a hands on experience; customers can feel the quality of a garments fabric, they can see the colour under a natural light and most importantly when trying the clothes on; allowing them to feel and touch the garment and see how it flows when worn. Although e-tailers have progressed to the use of virtual models, adding a personal feel by using face recognition as explained earlier, they have yet to become widely popular within the fashion industry, giving retailers the advantage. However some people use the advantage of the retail shops for ‘trying on’ purpose and the advantage of cheaper prices online together to get the best outcome. “If I decide to buy designer clothing, I’ll check the fit in the shops first. Then I visit an Internet café to see if I can find the item at a better price or in a rarer colour and sometimes I compare the price on www.kelkoo.co.uk” Scanlon, 2007, p.72 Retailing and E-tailing have contrasting advantages and disadvantages some chose to work together in an attempt to cancel out the disadvantages. This does not always work. When a retail company decides they want to develop a web presence they need to research fully into the business of e-tailing in order to succeed. Retailers such as H & M have become a major success in the retailing business but failures online. H & M; sometimes looks like a jumble sale but is hugely successful. The website does not allow customers to shop online which is a major downfall as shown in reviews customers would like this option. “Great prices for fun, trendy clothes. I just wish I could shop online for H&M.” Liljessjess, 2007 This proves the site could benefit from reading some of these reviews and giving the customers what they want. Fashion retailers will always have the advantage of the store appearance. Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -41- 3/8/2016 “Walking into the store and being overwhelmed by the quantity of goods available, the variety of textures, the multiplicity of colours, the selection of different things and their overall display, could certainly enchant the average consumer in a manner equal to seeing a film.” Moss, 2007, p.37 E-tailers will succeed through hard work and achieving an excellent web presence, and adding special touches; ensuring they will always be part of a persons shopping mind map. “Most of the successful Web enterprises have worked long and hard at promoting and advertising their sites to the public. What good is a good website if no one knows about it? Promotion is the key to success. It could be suggested that at least two-thirds of the budget for a major company website should be devoted to advertising and promotion.” Pooler, 2003, p.183 Taking all advantages and disadvantages into account it will always be the customer who decides which the most desirable way to shop is; online or in store because the customer is always right. Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -42- 3/8/2016 Reference List: Liljessjess (2007) http://www.rateitall.com/i-4684-h-m.aspx?&orderBy=1&pagesize=all (Accessed: 18 December 2007) p.39 Moss, M. (2007) Shopping as an Entertainment Experience. U.S: Lexington Books, p.39 Pooler, J. (2003) Why We Shop; Emotional rewards and retail strategies. London: Praeger, p.37, 40 Scanlon, G. (2007) The Goddess Guide. London: Harper Collins, p.38 Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -43- 3/8/2016 Conclusion Is fashion e-tailing taking over from fashion retailing or have the retailers won the war? Some work well together, but more work better apart. As shown retailers, and e-tailers can work together in some cases; cancelling out disadvantages of each. However most businesses choose to go down one route or another. E-tailing companies such as ASOS have shown that a successful fashion store can work very well online; they succeeded supplying fashion items for all; from cheap to expensive, designer to not, and celebrity status to none. Although this is true and they are successful it seems from research that people still prefer buying fashion clothing from retail stores rather than online. This was evident in the primary data collection and Nuttalls’ survey. Retail stores have created an experience for their shoppers with the use of music, cleaver lighting and store layout. Many keep on top of new fashion trends and have shock celebrity appearances. This all adds to extra customer satisfaction. However many feel the main reason for shoppers preferring retailers over e-tailers for fashion clothes is the appeal of the hands on experience; the ability to feel fabrics, see them under different lights and try them on to see the drape and flow of the fabric. Research has shown that e-tailers are progressing towards the act of trying on clothes through the use of virtual models. This technology has not yet been used in a lot of the popular fashion e-tailers as of yet, but may pull more customers towards online shopping in the future. E-tailers may not have won the war for fashion clothing yet, but the research shown they are more successful for selling electrical equipment, DVD’s, CD’s and books. The questionnaire results express this also from the point of view of men and women. Etailers have successfully taken over this half of over the consumer industry so what is to stop them making a mark on fashion clothing online in years to come. Multimedia Design – School of Design Year 3 – Dissertation – De0449 Northumbria University katie Foreman -44- 3/8/2016 To conclude the argument over fashion e-tailing Vs retailing; retailing is still seen as a more desirable way to shop for fashion items, mainly clothes as some, not many buy accessories and footwear online. This is true for men and women although as shown women do dominate the consumer market when it comes to shopping. Retailers have won the war to date, remaining a preferable way to shop over shopping in e-tail stores. 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