King Saud University
College of Pharmacy
Department of Pharmaceutics
PHT 435
Cosmetics Preparations
Practical Notes
Eram Kamal Eldin
SHAMPOO
Shampoo Paste or Cream
Rx
Sodium lauryl sulfate needles
300 g
(82% active matter)
cetyl alcohol
50g
water
650 ml
prepare 25 g.
F=
Procedure:
1. Melt cetyl alcohol in a porcelain dish over water bath at 75-80oC.
2. Dissolve SLS in the amount of water, place over water bath (75-80oC) to heat. N.B., add SLS
gradually to warm water with stirring to form a thick suspension.
3. Add 2 to 1 gradually (on water bath) with gentle stirring. Cool to 40-45oC.
Notes:
 Mixing should be gentle and prolonged stirring should be avoided because aeration
makes the finished product spongy and less firm.
 Filling into containers should be made whilst still warm to help give a firm product with
an attractive appearance.
Role of each ingredient:
 SLS: a detergent.
 Cetyl alcohol: a builder.
Label:
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HAIR CONDITIONER
Acid Conditioning Cream
Rx
Cetyl alcohol
Sodium lauryl sulfate
Citric acid
Water
Perfume
Methyl paraben
Prepare 25 g.
150g
5g
20g
825g
0.3-0.5%
0.15%
F=
Procedure:
1. In a porcelain dish, melt cetyl alcohol over water bath (75-80oC).
2. Dissolve SLS and citric acid in water , heat on the same water bath.
3. Add 2 to 1 gradually, with gentle stirring (to avoid incorporation of air) until a stable cream
is formed.
4. Continue stirring until cooling, and then add perfume at 35oC
Label:
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LIPSTICKS
Formula of lipstick
Rx
Carnuba wax
10g
Bees wax
15g
Lanolin
5g
Cetyl alcohol
5g
Castor oil
55 ml
Liquid paraffin
10 ml
Pigment (Sudan III or Carmine)
0.3g
Perfume
q.s.
Send 4 lipsticks.
Calculations:
 Number required
 Total weight
 F=
Procedure:
=
= No. x M.C ( Mold capacity ) =
1. Lubricate the mould with soap lubricant, and invert to drain the in excess.
2. In a porcelain dish, melt carnuba wax, bees wax, lanolin and cetyl alcohol on a water bath.
3. In a beaker, heat castor oil over the same water bath to 75 oC, then dissolve Sudan III (oily soluble)
to give the red colour.
4. Add castor oil and Sudan III mixture while hot to the melt in # 2. Mix well.
5. Pour the mixture into the mould while hot, make overfilling to avoid contraction of the base on
cooling, and then leave to cool. Remove the excess and smooth the surface.
Notes:
 The amount of Carnuba wax can be replaced by bees wax. Then the total bees wax to use is 25 g.
 Liquid paraffin (5-10%) can be added for glossy appearance. So use castor oil (55g) with liquid
paraffin (10g).
 Lanolin is an emollient which has a plasticizing effect, improve spreading and increase thickness
and stability of the film.
Label:
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SKIN PREPARATIONS FOR THE FACE AND HANDS
Cold cream formula
Rx
Mineral oil
450
Bees wax
160
Borax
x
Water
380
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative
q.s.
Send 20 g.
F=
N.B.,
acid value (A.V.) of bees wax = 20
m.wt. of borax = 381.43
m.wt. of NaOH = 40
m.wt. of KOH = 56.11
Procedure:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Melt bees wax on water bath at 75-80 oC, and then add mineral oil.
Dissolve borax in the amount of water, and heat to the same temperature.
Add #2 to #1 gradually with stirring on water bath for complete emulsification.
Remove from water bath and continue stirring until cooling.
Label:
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Calculation of the amount of borax:

Acid value (AV); is defined as the number of mg of KOH required to neutralize 1 gm of oil or fat.
(N.B., since there is no free fatty acids in mineral oil, so we calculate only for bees wax).
 Na2B4O7 + 8 H2O  4 H3BO4 (boric acid) + 2 NaOH + H2O
(eq. #1)
i.e., 1 mole borax  hydrolysis  2 mole NaOH ≡ 2 mole KOH, because the acid value is calculated in
terms of KOH (mg required to neutralize the free fatty acids in the cream).

For bees wax, AV = 20, which means that:
20 mg KOH ≡ 1 g bees wax
x mg KOH ≡ 3.2 g bees wax (amount needed for the Rx)
Then

x=
3.2  0.02
= 0.064 g KOH.
1
The amount of KOH calculated has to be converted into borax:
1 mole of borax ≡ 2 moles NaOH
(from eq.#1)
381.43 g borax ≡ 2 × 56.11 g KOH
x g borax ≡ 0.064 g KOH
Then, amount of borax required =
0.064  381.43
= 0.218 g Borax.
2  56.11
VANISHING CREAM
Vanishing cream formula
Rx
Stearic acid
Pot.hydroxide
Glycerin
Water
Send 25 g.
F=
150
x
50
790
Notes:
Purity of KOH = 70.4 %.
m. wt of stearic acid = 284.5
m.wt of KOH = 56.11
N.B., 1 mole stearic acid reacts with 1 mole KOH.
Calculations:
1. Calculation of amount of KOH needed:
25
= 37.5 g
100
m.wt...of ..alkali
amt..of ..stearic..acid ..to..be..saponified
100
KOH needed =


m.wt..stearic..acid
no..of ..mol..of ..alkali.. per..equation
purity..of ..alkali
Amount of stearic acid to be saponified = 150 
=
56.11 37.5 100


= 10.5 g KOH.  mutiply by F  = 0.263 g KOH.
284.5
1
70.4
Procedure:
1. Melt stearic acid on water bath at 75-80 oC.
2. Mix glycerin with water and then dissolve KOH in the mixture, and heat to the same
temperature.
3. Add #2 to #1 gradually with stirring on water bath for complete emulsification.
4. Remove from water bath and continue stirring until cooling.
Label:
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Comparison between cold and vanishing creams
properties
Cold cream
Vanishing cream
Emulsion Type
w/o
o/w
Oil content
45-80 %
15-35 %
Water content
25 %
80 %
Emulgent
Bees wax, glyceryl monostearate
Alkali soap
Time of use
Night
Day time
Appearance
Shiny (not easily disappear)
Matty (disappear rapidly)
Humectants
Not incorporated
Incorporated
Cooling effect
Provides cooling sensation
No cooling effect
Unpigmented Foundation cream formula
Rx
Castor oil
2
Stearic acid
5
Cetyl alcohol
2
Glycerin
5
Borax
1
Sod.hydroxide
0.1
Perfume & Pres.
Q.s.
Dist.water
85
Send 25.
F=
Procedure:
1. Melt stearic acid, cetyl alcohol and casor oil on water bath at 75-80 oC.
2. Dissolve borax, NaOH in water. Add glycerin and heat to 75-80 oC, dissolve in the
preservative.
3. Add 2 to 1 gradually with stirring on water bath for complete emulsification.
4. Remove from the bath and continue trituration until a homogenous cream is obtained.
5. Add the perfume.
Label:
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Cleansing lotion formula
Rx
Stearic acid
5.34
Mineral oil
35
Bees wax
2
Triethanolamine
2.66
Water
55
Send 25 g.
F=
Procedure:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Melt bees wax on water bath at 75-80 oC, and then add stearic acid and mineral oil.
Dissolve triethanolamine in the amount of water, and heat to the same temperature.
Add #2 to #1 gradually with stirring on water bath for complete emulsification.
Remove from water bath and continue stirring until cooling. Transfer to a bottle and fix a
label.
N.B.: ** The soap of triethanolamine stearate is an effective emulsifier.
Label:
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Sunscreen cream
Rx
Stearic acid
15
Cetyl alcohol
0.5
Lanolin
2
Glycerin
5
Sod. hydroxide
0.18
Pot. hydroxide
0.5
Salicylamide or calamine
1.32
Water
75
Perfume
q.s.
Send 25 g.
F=
Procedure:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Melt stearic acid, cetyl alcohol and lanolin on water bath at 75-80 oC.
Dissolve KOH and NaOH in water-glycerol mixture, and heat to the same temperature.
Add #2 to #1 gradually with stirring on water bath for complete emulsification.
Remove from water bath and continue stirring until cooling.
Add calamine powder (make it fine in a mortar) to the formed cream and triturate until
smooth and cool. Then add the perfume.
N.B.:
Salicylamide: is a UV absorbing drug. (Chemical sunscreen).
Calamine: is a UV scattering agent. (Physical sunscreen).
Label:
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ACNE VULGARIS PREPARATIONS
Acne cream formula
Rx
Sulphur
5
Resorcinol
2
Pot.hydroxide
0.74
Stearic acid
15
Glycerol
5
Perfume & preservative
q.s.
Water
100
to
Prepare 25 g.
F=
Procedure:
1. Melt steraic acid on water bath at 75-80 oC.
2. Mix glycerin with water, and then dissolve KOH in the mixture and heat to the same
temperature.
3. Add #2 to #1 gradually with stirring on water bath for complete emulsification.
4. Add the fine powders of sulphur and resorcinol (grind if necessary in a mortar) to the
prepared cream, mix well.
5. Remove from water bath and continue trituration until cooling.
Note: This cream should be applied to the infected parts of the skin without inunctions.
Label:
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DENTAL PREPARATIONS
TOOTH PASTES
Rx
Dicalcium phosphate
350g
Heavy Mg CO3
Calcium carbonate
140g
Heavy Mg CO3
Glycerin
200g
Gum tragacanth mucilage 2%
12ml
Saccharine sodium
0.5g
Sodium lauryl sulfate
100g
Peppermint oil
q.s.
Preservative
q.s.
Water
198g
Use 1 drop
Prepare 25 g.
F=
Procedure:
1. In a porcelain mortar, mix dicalcium phosphate and calcium carbonate with gum tragacanth
mucilage, and then levigate with glycerin.
2. Dissolve sodium lauryl sulfate and saccharine sodium in the amount of water.
3. Add 2 to 1 with continueous mixing until a homogeneous paste is produced.
4. Add peppermint oil to the paste with stirring.
5. Pass the paste through a three roller mill for size reduction.
Label:
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MOUTHWASHES
 These are aqueous solutions used to treat conditions of the mouth and to clean and refresh the
buccal activity. The active ingredients are usually antiseptic or bactericidal agents in a pleasantly
flavored vehicle.
 Mouthwashes are similar to gargles (aqueous solutions used to treat infections of the throat).
 They are often presented in concentrated form with instructions to the patient for dilution with
warm water before use.
Compound Sodium Chloride Mouthwash BP
Rx.
Sodium chloride
Sodium bicarbonate
Conc peppermint emulsion
Double strength chloroform water
Water
to
Fiat: Mouthwash. Mette: 50ml
Sig.: 15ml to be diluted with equal
Volume of warm water BID.
Calculation:
1.5g
1g
2.5ml
50ml
100ml
F=
Amount of vehicle =
Procedure:
1. Weight the solids on a suitable balance.
2. In a beaker or conical measure, dissolve the solids in about 2/3rd the amount of vehicle.
3. Add the double strength chloroform water and concentrated peppermint emulsion, mix.
4. Make up to volume with water.
5. Pack in an amber ribbed bottle with a chilled-resistant closure and label.
Use: for cleansing and freshening the mouth.
Role of each ingredient:
 Conc peppermint emulsion: is a flavoring agent.
 Double strength chloroform water: is a sweetener and preservative.
 Sodium chloride: could retard growth of microorganisms, by withdrawing water from the
microorganism especially if the external salt concentration is high enough.
Also, hypertonic NaCl solution mouthwashes may help to reduce minor swelling that may occur
after gum surgery, because higher conc of NaCl than in the cells could force water out of the cells.
Label:
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