Research in the School of Textiles and Design of Heriot-Watt University
1.1 Overview
Research is vital to ensure that academic staff are at the forefront of knowledge, to support
our commercial strategy and to ensure that our teaching is always up to date and prepares
our students in an appropriate way for the world of work. It provides a practical reference
point for theoretical work and helps develop the highly transferable problem solving skills
that place Heriot-Watt graduates in such high demand.
Heriot-Watt is a research-based technological University, and is committed to
excellence in teaching and research in its specialist areas of applied sciences and
mathematics, engineering and technology, textiles and design, business management and
languages. The focus is on the practical relevance and value of high quality research and
teaching, involving innovative approaches and close partnership with industry and the
professions. Heriot-Watt has a flourishing research community with an international
reputation. With a reputation for enterprise, innovative education and leading edge but
practical research, it is one of the top UK universities in terms of income from business and
industry.
The vigorous development of research within the School of Textiles and Design provides
excellent opportunities for qualified students to undertake postgraduate study and research.
Research in the School covers a wide range of disciplines, from textile science, engineering
and technology, colour chemistry and physics, to clothing and design. These divisions are in
practice not rigid. In fact, the School adopts a genuinely multidisciplinary approach to its
research, taking advantage of its unique group of staff from a diversity of disciplines. As an
example, research at the design/technology interface is seen as an important area of current
development.
The School is implementing its aim to enhance its reputation as a leading national and
international provider of education, and for excellence in research, in the areas of design,
fashion, textile production, garment manufacture, colour science and technical textiles.
The objectives of the School, in teaching and research, are:
to have a portfolio of well-supported and respected undergraduate and
postgraduate courses;
to conduct research of national and international standing in disciplines
relevant to the interests of the School;
to enhance external recognition, through excellence in:
national/international activities;
teaching and research;
links with industry.
to provide an educational, cultural and physical environment which enables
students to develop to their full potential.
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1.2 The School of Textiles and Design – a brief Historical Perspective
The School of Textiles and Design is located at the Scottish Borders Campus of
Heriot-Watt University in Galashiels. In 1989 the Scottish College of Textiles in Galashiels
entered successfully into an academic association with Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh.
This association was consolidated by full merger on 1st October 1998, when the College
became the School of Textiles of Heriot-Watt University. The School was renamed the
School of Textiles and Design in 2002 and this sets the scene for its dynamic role in the 21st
century.
The Scottish College of Textiles derived its origin from the need to provide specialist
education to meet the needs of industry and business. The strategy which evolved to deliver
textile education during the 19th and 20th centuries in the Borders Region of Scotland can
be traced among the archives of the successive institutions: Galashiels Combined Technical
School (1889-1906), South of Scotland Central Technical College (1906-1922), Scottish
Woollen Technical College (1922-1965), and the Scottish College of Textiles (1965-1998),
renamed in this way to describe its wider function. From 1975, the College expanded its
activity beyond Textile Design and Technology, to include Clothing Manufacture, Colour
Science, Business Studies, Management, Accounting, Office and Administration Studies and
Computing and Information Studies.
Heriot-Watt is a modern, dynamic technological University, established by Royal Charter in
1966, but traces its origins almost 150 years earlier to 1821 and the Edinburgh School of
Arts – one of the country’s first “mechanics institutes” of advanced practical education for
the working classes. The name Heriot-Watt commemorates two champions of Scottish
technology, commerce and education: George Heriot, financier to King James VI & I and
benefactor of education in his native Edinburgh, and James Watt, the pioneer of steam
power. In 1852 the name of the School was changed to the Watt Institution and School of
Arts, in memory of James Watt. To commemorate this, a statue of James Watt by Peter
Slater was unveiled in 1854; this statue is now situated outside the University’s James Watt
Centre. In 1885 George Heriot’s Hospital for orphans was amalgamated with the Watt
Institution and School of Arts and the Heriot-Watt College was created. The College
continued to enhance its reputation in science and engineering and became Heriot-Watt
University in 1966. The Riccarton estate, on which the main campus of the University is now
located, was gifted to the University in 1969 and the purpose built campus became occupied
in a phased programme from 1973 to 1992.
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2. Research Structure in the School of Textiles and Design
http://www.hw.ac.uk/sbc/SOTWeb/SOTResearch.html
Within the School there are two identified research centres and two research groups. In
addition, the School is the leading institution in the TechniTex Faraday Partnership.
The School of Textiles and Design
Research Centres
RIFlex
BTRC
Research Groups
Textile & Colour
Science and Technology
Textile Design
and Clothing
RIFleX, the Research Institute for Flexible Materials
The Institute, under the directorship of Professor George Stylios, is active in a range of
leading-edge research topics at the textile/clothing interface. Currently in the Institute there
are four research associates and eight research students.
Biomedical Textiles Research Centre (BTRC)
The Centre was established in 1998 as the result of a major SHEFC Research Development
Grant. The Centre, now under the directorship of Dr Alex Fotheringham and previously Dr
Robert Mather, pursues research on a range of biomedical-based topics involving textiles.
Currently in the Centre there are two research associates and five research students.
Textile & Colour Science and Technology Research Group
Research in textile science and technology reflects the expansion of the technical textiles
discipline while maintaining activity in traditional textiles, especially in the high quality, high
value sector of the UK textile industry. Research in colour chemistry, physics and technology
is focused not only on textiles but also on coatings, cosmetics and electronic applications.
There are currently five research active staff and fifteen research students.
Textile Design and Clothing Research Group
Research in design is largely practice-based, encompassing a diverse range of activity.
There is a particular focus on the integration of the creative design process with application
and manufacturing technology. There are currently around seven research active staff and
three research students.
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The TechniTex Faraday Partnership
Technical textiles encompasses a variety of functional products, for use in a range of
industries including aerospace, agriculture and healthcare.
The TechniTex Faraday
Partnership was established in 2000 as a result of significant funding from EPSRC and the
DTI, to develop a programme of coordinated research, training and technology transfer for
the technical textiles industry. The Partnership involves Heriot-Watt University as the leading
partner, together with the University of Leeds, UMIST and BTTG.
The role of TechniTex is to enable this key emerging sector of UK industry to work with
leading academic researchers to produce innovative new products and processes. The
TechniTex core project started towards the end of 2002. The aim of the programme is to
establish general scientific principles associated with modelling, measurement and
manufacturing processes associated with technical textiles.
The role of Heriot-Watt
University in the core project is associated with the coating processes used in technical
textiles and has a particular focus on textiles for medical applications.
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3.
Research Institutes and Groups
3.1 Research Institutes
3.1.1 Research Institute for Flexible Materials (RIFleX)
http://www.hw.ac.uk/sbc/RIFleX/
The Research Institute for Flexible Materials, under the direction of Professor George Stylios,
consists of extensive dedicated laboratory space and a range of equipment located in the
School of Textiles and Design. There are currently eight PhD research students and four
Post Doctoral fellows working on a range of research projects. The diverse activities in
RIFleX include: the 3D digital reconstruction of humans; the 3D modelling and visualisation
of garment shape; the engineering, re-engineering and prediction of textile aesthetics with
pioneering research in textile drape and handle; the man/machine/material interface for
apparel product development and process optimisation; and the area of objective
measurement technologies and intelligent textile structures with a dedicated team
researching shape memory materials and conductive polymers for SMART end uses.
Significant achievements have been made, for example, in defining, measuring and
engineering aesthetics, and in characterising drape and handle by an Intelligent Aesthetics
Environment in which reverse engineering can be used to clone desirable material properties.
This research has established a firm understanding of the way in which aesthetics may be
controlled by modifying the material properties and processing conditions.
RIFleX is conducting a number of funded research projects: an EU funded research project
on Virtual Trading known as HOMETEX for about £1 million, an EU Framework Programme 5
research project of the order of £140,000 referred to as INNEUROTEX with partners from
France and Belgium, which aims to set up a European platform for innovation, and other
grants and contributions from industrial or livery organisations, such as the Worshipful
Company of Weaver’s company to assist in the development of smart garments. The
Institute also houses the two research associates working on the TechniTex Faraday EPSRC
core research project, the funding for which is £330,000.
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Research Institute for Flexible Materials (RIFleX)
Director:
Professor George Stylios MSc, PhD, FSTA
Professor of Textiles
G.Stylios@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892135
George came from a textile business background in Greece and studied in the UK. He
completed his postgraduate studies in Leeds and then went onto his MSc and PhD, which
were funded by M&S and their suppliers. George completed his PhD in 1986 and became a
lecturer in clothing at Bradford, and he became a fellow of the Science and Technology
Agency in Japan in 1991 before returning to Bradford in 1992. He obtained his personal
chair in industrial engineering systems at Bradford in 1994 whilst continuing research in
textile objective measurement applied at the textile and clothing interface. In 1999 George
joined the School of Textiles and Design as Professor of Textiles and is currently Director of
TechniTex and the Faraday Partnership in Technical Textiles. He has always been interested
in the interface between textiles and clothing from a number of aspects and has centred the
majority of his research around this area, bringing in sensors, control engineering and
machine design.
Current research interests include:
Textile/clothing interface, bringing fabric attributes in relation to garment machinery
and garment design, e.g.: intelligent sewing environments; automated measurement
systems; laser pucker; dynamic sewing penetration force measurement.
Textile/garment aesthetics, to define, predict and engineer superior fabrics and
garments: predicting handle and drape with fabric properties incorporating
perception; fabric and dynamic drape measurement system.
3D cloth drape with the creation of realistic 3D simulation and visualisation of
garments worn by artificial humans who are digitally cloned and seen to perform
“virtual wearer trials”;
SMART textiles: intelligent textile structures or fabrics made of shape memory
materials woven and knitted for apparel, interior and technical textile uses;
SMART garments, incorporating sensors capable of wireless connections with the
outside world: SMART vest for rehabilitation of patients.
George is a member of a number of learned societies, and acts as a referee and external
examiner in government departments, research organisations and universities of many
countries, and he is invited to speak at international conferences. He is a founding editor of
the International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, which was established in
1987.
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Research Institute for Flexible Materials (RIFleX) - Staff
Dr Fan Han MSc, PhD
Research Associate
F.Han@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0)1896 892265
Fan graduated from the Central South University, with a first class honours degree in
Automatic Controls in 1984, and MSc in Computer Science in 1997. She went on to
undertake a PhD in Computer Science in Department of Industry Technology at the
University of Bradford. Her PhD project is titled “Investigation of A Remote, Online Virtual
Human Reconstruction System”.
The effective techniques for online 3D virtual
reconstruction of the human body and face via the internet consisted of four main research
areas: the parametric reconstruction of a human model, 3D digital cloning techniques of
face and body, and human animation with skinning smoothing as well database connecting
internet. Although the system is originally conceived for global retailing of fashion and
textiles where customers can purchase garments by conducting virtual wear trials using their
own reconstructed body at the convenience of their own home, it has much wider
application to other industries.
Before coming to Britain, she worked in the Computer Department at the Central South
University as a lecturer and a head of the computer executive section. Her main research
concerned the management, design, installation and administration of the Siemens 7570C as
well as hardware and software maintenance. A number of works were published and
awarded a number of prizes in the University, including the first award of university
experimental technique achievement.
She joined Heriot-Watt University in May 2001 as a Research Associate in the RIFleX
Research Centre. Currently her research focuses on the technical study in development of
HomeTex centre for global retailing of fashion and textiles.
Current research interests include:
computer graphics;
virtual reality;
image analysis and database and the Internet, especially for textile
application on SGI and PC, e.g. drape simulation and human animation.
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Dr Sharon Lam Po Tang BA, MSc, PhD
Project Officer
S.Lam_Po_Tang@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0)1896 892277
Sharon graduated with first class honours in Textile Design at the University of Leeds’ School
of Textile Industries in 1997. She went on to study for a Masters in Textiles, graduating with
distinction in 1998. During that year she worked, amongst other things, in the technical
textiles area and focused her research on the creep performance of nylon, polyester and gelspun polyvinyl alcohol tyre cord yarns.
In 1999, on completion of her Masters, Sharon started a PhD working on the development of
micro-fibrous non-woven webs made from regenerated cellulose. Backed by Acordis Ltd.
and under the supervision of Dr S. Mukhopadhyay, she investigated the effects of changing
key parameters on fibre fineness, tensile properties and web characteristics. Her work has
been orally presented at various international conferences and recently published in refereed
journals.
She joined the School of Textiles and Design as a research associate in the autumn of 2002,
after completion of her PhD. Bringing in her practical experience in working with the
industry for the development of innovative products and her fluency in French, she was
originally involved in the INNEUROTEX project, which focuses on the building of a European
platform for innovations in textiles. INNEUROTEX, an EC-funded project, regroups HeriotWatt University, the French innovation centre, Innotex, and the Belgian research centre
Celabor SCRL. The project is primarily focused at facilitating competitive intelligence in the
textile sector, developing a European incubating network and generating large, translational
innovative textile projects.
In June 2003 Sharon joined the HOMETEX team, which works on the development of a
virtual trading centre in the south of Scotland. HOMETEX is partly financed by the EU, under
the South of Scotland Partnership programme. As part of a team of five full-time and one
part-time staff, her role is principally to liaise with industry and help to increase industrial
participation in the project. In parallel, Sharon is also involved in most aspects of the
organisation of the INTEDEC 2003 conference, “Fibrous Assemblies at the Design and
Engineering Interface”.
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Dr Michael Wan BSc, PhD
Research Associate
Taoyu.Wan@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892266
Taoyu (Michael) obtained his PhD in material science at Huazhong University of Science &
Technology in 1996. He obtained his MSc degree in materials science at Central South
University in 1989, and his first class honours degree in material science at Zhejiang
University in 1983. Nation Nature Science Foundation in China supported his PhD project
titled “Effects of Microstructure on Shear Band Initiation and Development”. The work
studied mainly local deformation mechanisms in materials from a combination of mechanics
and materials science. Mathematics modelling of deformation processes, along with
experimental and theoretical investigation of materials microstructure and in-situ tensile
deformation SEM observation, has focused on modelling of shear band initiate and develop
process in non-ferrous metal. It developed a deeper understanding of the physics of the
materials deformation process in order to tailor metal mechanical behaviour to material
deformation process model requirements.
Before coming to the UK, he worked at the Department of Material Science in Nanjing
University of Science and Technology as an associate professor and a head of research. He
has conducted a number of research projects funded by industry and by NNSF in China. His
main research includes: high Tc superconductivity; advanced aerial materials; powder
metallurgy; function ceramics; special material manufacturing techniques and semi-solid
metal forming etc. A number of articles have been published, and he was awarded a
number of prizes including "The Second Award for the Research Project in China Non-ferrous
Metal General Corp.”.
He joined Heriot-Watt University in October 2000 as a Research Associate in the RIFleX
Research Centre. Currently his main interest is in optimisation of the coating processing on
textile scaffolds for medical application. Most of the technical textiles products in medical
applications have a unique structure, preferably porous scaffolds coating on fabrics, with
incorporated functional additives to provide versatile behaviour to meet the different medical
requirements, for example manufacture of wound dressing using phase separation
techniques. Other research interests include shape memory alloys and polymers for smart
textile design, for example shape memory training and SMP yarn in textile design.
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Dr Hua Lin
H.Lin@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892266
Mr Liang Luo
L.Luo@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892269
Ms Anita Hill
Anita.Hill@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892136
Research Associate
Experimental Officer
Administrator
Research Institute for Flexible Materials
Postgraduate Research Studentships
Current
Yi Guo
Application of Psycholinguistic Models in Automatic Multiple Documents Summarisation
Md. Zakir Hossain
Investigating Conductive Textiles
Liang Luo
Wearable Computing Sensor, Data Acquisition and Virtual Instrument Based Wireless Broadband Internet
Research
Norwani Md. Nawawi
A Study of Patterns, Motifs and Technique in Ikat Limar of Malaysia
Kamal Jyoti Sen
The investigation of Drape Ability of Fabric
Danmei Sun
Changing and Improving Fabric Handle Using Plasma Technology
Recent
Yvonne Chan Vili, PhD (2004)
Applying Shape Memory Materials for Interwoven Textiles
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3.1.2
Biomedical Textiles Research Centre (BTRC)
http://www.hw.ac.uk/sbc/BTRC/BTRC/_private/homepage.htm
The Biomedical Textiles Research Centre (BTRC), launched through funding from the
Scottish Higher Education Funding Council, performs research in the biomedical field,
particularly in the following areas: biomedical structures fabricated from textiles and their
functions; conducting and medical polymers; polymer moulding, polymer, fibre and tape
extrusion and the medical applications of gas discharge plasma treatment. In addition BTRC
is developing interests in the cell biocompatibility of textiles and tissue engineering. The role
of BTRC is to design and develop textile products and constructions for a variety of
biomedical applications, bringing together scientists, engineers and medics to solve current
medical problems.
The personnel in BTRC include academic staff, research associates, technicians and
postgraduate students and cover a wide range of disciplines, such as chemistry, engineering,
microbiology and polymer material science. BTRC is involved in a number of projects with
industry, academic and medical institutions and collaborates with other Schools of the
University.
Research Interests:
Conducting polymer films
There is a strong interest in conducting polymer films with many new ideas emerging from
the simple observation that these are materials, which combine the electronic properties of
metals and semi-conductors, while retaining the processing advantages of polymers. In
collaboration with Dundee University Dental School, and funded through a Proof of Concept
award, BTRC is involved in the formulation, processing and fabrication of polymer electrodes
for detecting dental caries.
Gas plasma treatment
Gas plasma treatment of textile surfaces
offers an environmentally clean alternative
to traditional surface treatments. Ideally,
the textile surface can be altered to produce
a stable surface modification without any
change in bulk properties. Projects in this
area include:
the influence of low
temperature oxygen and argon gas plasma
treatment on the surface properties of
polypropylene fibres and tape, and the use
of gas plasma treatment to modify
biocompatible
substrata,
which
are
frequently
designed
for
their
bulk
properties, but not cell compatibility.
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Pressure garments
Pressure garments are tight fitting, elasticated garments worn to exert pressure on a defined
area; they are used to treat vascular problems or exert pressure over scars, helping the skin
heal smoothly and decreasing the scarring. Work in this area is investigating elastic fabrics
for use in pressure garments, for the treatment of hypertrophic scarring from burns and
plastic surgery.
Polymer Fibre Processing
The Centre has an excellent facility for the processing of synthetic polymer fibres and tapes.
There are two pilot-plant scale single-screw melt-extruders and a specially designed drawframe on the same scale. Two ram extruders are available for the processing of smaller
amounts of fibre. Both melt spinning or solution spinning can be undertaken and a benchtop draw frame can be linked to the extruders. With the advent of tissue engineering came
the need for biodegradable biocompatible polymers. An investigation into the extrusion of
novel medical and industrial grade materials is being undertaken as a combined project with
Vascutek Ltd.
Design of textile scaffolds for tissue engineering
Textile scaffold constructions are extremely versatile and therefore ideal for tissue
engineering, encouraging cells to recreate the tissue geometry. Scaffolds can be knitted,
woven, nonwoven, braided, embroidered or a combination of these techniques and adapted
to meet different cell requirements, e.g. by altering the fibre diameter or substituting the
polymer. One research project is investigating the design and properties of 3D textile
scaffolds manufactured from medical grade biodegradable polymers. Another project,
working with GyneIdeas, focuses on different biodegradable materials for use in a hernia
repair mesh.
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Biomedical Textiles Research Centre (BTRC)
Director:
Dr Alex. F Fotheringham BSc, PhD, DMS, ILTM
Lecturer in Biomedical Materials
A.F.Fotheringham@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892149
Alex obtained his degree in Biological Sciences from the University of Paisley in 1977 and
completed his PhD in Microbiology with the University of Reading in 1980.
Following five years in the sales and marketing area with Becton Dickinson, a US based
healthcare company, he moved to Plymouth, Devon, to work at Becton Dickinson Vacutainer
Systems firstly as Plant Chemist then as Chief Microbiologist.
In 1993 Alex joined the Scottish College of Textiles, and in particular his main interest is in
the application of textiles to medical problems, e.g. medical implants for organ repair. Alex
has worked with a number of educational institutions and healthcare companies in the
development of a number of these textile applications and products.
Current research interests include:
the use of experimental designs and neural networks to model the
extrusion and draw of man-made fibres and bio-polymers, e.g. polylactic
acid;
the design of a conducting polymer sensor for the detection of dental
caries;
the design of a slow release device to inhibit the growth of plaque bacteria
to treat dental caries;
the use of low temperature plasma for the surface modification of medical
implants.
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Biomedical Textiles Research Centre (BTRC) - Staff
Dr Robert R Mather BA, PhD, FRSC
Senior Lecturer in Textile Technology
Bert Mather has recently transferred to the School of Engineering and Physical Sciences of
the University. However, he retains an affiliation with the School of Textiles and Design and,
in particular, with the BTRC.
R.R.Mather@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892235
Bert joined the School in 1983. His principal research activities are in the processingstructure-property relationships of synthetic fibres, particularly polypropylene fibres. He also
has an interest in the surface chemistry and aggregation properties of pigment crystals. Bert
is a graduate of Cambridge University and gained his PhD. at Birmingham University. After
two post-doctoral positions at Imperial College and Brunel University respectively, he was in
the Research and Development section of Ciba Pigments (Paisley) for ten years. He has
written numerous journal articles, has co-authored a textbook and has contributed a number
of chapters to other books.
Current research interests include:
the applications of advanced microscopies, such as scanning probe
microscopy and environmental scanning electron microscopy, to the study
of polypropylene fibre structures;
the gas plasma treatments of polypropylene fibres and tapes;
the coloration of polypropylene fibres;
the use of nonwoven polypropylene fabrics on oil spill recovery.
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Dr Lisa Macintyre BSc, PhD
Lecturer in Textile Technology
L.M.Macintyre@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892234
Lisa graduated from the Scottish College of Textiles with first class honours in 1994. After
completing a graduate training program and becoming a staff trainer for the John Lewis
Partnership, she returned to the College to take up a Lectureship in Textiles in 1995. She
enrolled for a part-time PhD in medical textiles in 1996, entitled 'A study of elastic fabrics for
use in the treatment of hypertrophic scars', which she completed in 2004.
Lisa has presented papers at several international textiles conferences and has published
articles in a variety of newspapers and magazines. She intends to further develop her
research expertise in pressure garments and warp knitted fabric structures.
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Miss Gayle Poddubecki
Administrator
G.Poddubecki@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892267
Biomedical Textiles Research Centre
Postgraduate Research Studentships
Current
Vikash Agarwal
A Study of the Resin Characteristics and the Effect of Processing Conditions on the Final Properties of PVDF Tapes
and Filaments
Michael Nairn
Design and Optimisation of a Prolapse Repair Patch
Jamie Warren
Advanced Characterisation of Plasma Treated Textiles
Recent
Lisa Macintyre, PhD (2004)
A Study of Elastic Fabrics for Use in the Treatment of Hypertrophic Scars
Diambu Pappy, PhD (2004)
Investigation into the Relationship between Processing Parameters and Structural Characteristics of Polyethylene
Fibres
Ruodan Yang, PhD (2001)
A Systematic Statistical Approach to Polypropylene Fibre Process Technology
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3.2
Research Groups
3.2.1 Textile & Colour Science and Technology Research Group
The School has a well-established research base in the application of science and technology
to a range of topics in textiles and an intense programme on the chemistry and physics of
colour. The research in these areas complements and overlaps with the activities in the
Research Institute for Flexible Materials (section 3.1.1), the Biomedical Textile Research
Centre (section 3.1.2) and the TechniTex Faraday Partnership (section 3.3).
The range of research topics in textile science and technology in the School has been
extended in recent years to encompass the exciting developments provided by the rapid
expansion of the technical textiles discipline, for applications which include medical implants
and oil spillage recovery. At the same time, the School has continued to develop its research
activity in some of the more traditional textile applications, with a particular focus on the
important high quality, high value products, which constitute a vital sector of the UK
industry. The School has a special focus within this research group on optimising production
processes for high performance synthetic fibres for a range of technical and medical textile
applications. Much of this research is concentrated on polypropylene, a fibrous material of
growing importance. This work has success fully exploited the exciting possibilities provided
by sophisticated analytical techniques such as atomic force microscopy (AFM) and
environmental scanning electron microscopy (ESEM) to characterise the fibres and provide
an enhanced understanding of their technical performance. The School’s research in fibre
analysis extends also to fine animal fibres and carpets, especially making innovative use of
optical and electron microscopy combined with digital image analysis techniques. This
research offers considerable potential for applications in forensic science, in which fibre
analysis is a vital component.
Colour science is a broad subject encompassing aspects of chemistry, physics and
technology. Colour is evidently of importance in textiles, but also applies to an immense
range of non-textile applications including coatings, inks, plastics, as well as ‘hightechnology’ applications in electronics, medicine and reprographics. The School’s activities in
colour physics research involve development of methods for the measurement and
mathematical specification of colour, which is of importance in predicting recipes for accurate
and reproducible production of coloured materials. In particular, significant contributions are
being made directed towards the development of numerical models to quantify the way we
perceive colour visually, and specific features such as metamerism, an effect where colours
appears similar under one type of illumination, but different under another. There is also
important research in textile dye application technology, for example in the computer control
using expert systems of the processes to provide improvements in practical textile dyeing
efficiency.
Research into the chemistry of dyes and pigments extends beyond the boundaries
encompassed by textile materials.
This research uses sophisticated computer-aided
modelling systems as a tool in the design of new types of dyes and pigments by providing
the facility to predict their properties. There is an internationally unique focus in the School
on the chemistry of organic pigments, the colouring materials of choice for coatings, printing
and plastics applications. This research is studying intensively the synthesis, processing, and
solid state characterisation of pigments leading to a detailed understanding of the products
and the manufacturing processes used. Research is also directed towards minimising the
environmental impact of these manufacturing processes. There is also considerable research
activity on the molecular design and synthesis of speciality dyes, notably fluorescent dyes,
thermochromic and photochromic materials for both textile and high technology applications,
for example in optical data storage.
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Textile & Colour Science and Technology Research Group - Staff
Dr Robert M Christie BSc, PhD, ILTM
Director of Research, and Reader in Colour Chemistry
http://www.hw.ac.uk/sbc/SOTWeb/SOTStaff.html
R.M.Christie@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892199
Bob is a colour chemist who joined the School in 1980. His main research interests are in the
chemistry of dyes and pigments for traditional and high technology applications. In particular,
he is an acknowledged international authority on the chemistry and technology of organic
pigments and has also made important contributions to the chemistry of speciality dye types,
notably fluorescent dyes, photochromic and thermochromic materials and hair dyes. Bob’s
interests in colour chemistry are wide ranging and have developed in a number of specific
areas, a recurring theme being the application of computer-aided molecular modelling
techniques in the design of new coloured materials.
Current research interests include:
organic pigments: computer-aided molecular design, synthesis and characterisation;
crystal engineering of new or surface modified pigments for improved application
performance; addressing environmental issues in pigment manufacture;
colour change (photochromic and thermochromic) materials: molecular design
synthesis and evaluation; textile applications of colour change chemistry;
fluorescent dyes; molecular design and synthesis of fluorescent dyes, particularly for
improved lightfastness properties;
hair dyes: molecular design of novel hair coloration systems;
surface coatings: textile coating systems, particularly for medical applications.
Bob obtained his BSc and PhD degrees from the University of St Andrews, and this was
followed by postdoctoral positions at the Australian National University and the University of
Aberdeen (with ICI Dyestuffs Division). His subsequent career has included periods in industrial
research with two international colour manufacturers, Ciba Pigments (Paisley) and Dominion
Colour Corporation (Toronto, Canada). He has written numerous journal articles and patents, is
author/co-author of four textbooks, including two recent titles, Colour Chemistry for the Royal
Society of Chemistry and The Organic and Inorganic Chemistry of Pigments for OCCA, and has
presented plenary and invited lectures at several international conferences. Bob is a member of
the Editorial Boards of Dyes and Pigments, Coloration Technology and Surface Coatings
International.
18
Dr Keith M Morgan MA, DPhil
Lecturer in Chemistry
Keith Morgan has recently transferred to the School of Engineering and Physical Sciences of
the University. However, he retains an affiliation with the School of Textiles and Design, and
co-supervises a number of PhD students.
http://www.hw.ac.uk/sbc/SOTWeb/SOTStaff.html
http://www.hw.ac.uk/chewww/people/acad/kmm.html
K.M.Morgan@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892238
Keith obtained his PhD in natural product chemistry from York University in 1993. Following
post doctoral experience funded by the Wellcome Trust at the Edinburgh Campus of HeriotWatt, he joined the School of Textiles in 1997.
With a background in natural product synthesis and interdisciplinary research, much of
Keith’s recent work has focussed on the application of computer-aided chemistry to a wide
range of industrially funded biomedical challenges such as inhibitor design and delivery.
Colour chemistry is another attractive and rewarding area where modern molecular design
(molecular mechanics and semi-empirical methods) is now being combined with organic
synthesis and materials science.
Current research interests include:
biomedical and materials applications of molecular modelling;
organic synthesis;
novel high performance colourants and historical dyes.
19
Dr Roger H Wardman BTech, PhD, CChem, MRSC, CCol, FSDC, ILTM
Acting Head of School, and Senior Lecturer in Colour Science
http://www.hw.ac.uk/sbc/SOTWeb/SOTStaff.html
R.H.Wardman@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892140
Roger graduated in Colour Chemistry & Colour Technology from the University of Bradford in
1974 and joined the School in that year. He obtained his PhD in colour-difference evaluation
from Bradford University in 1981. His main research interests are in the fields of colour
measurement and specification, and he has published many papers relating to colourdifference assessment and has presented papers at a number of international conferences.
He has also co-authored one textbook.
Roger has been a member of the Colour Measurement Committee of the Society of Dyers
and Colourists since 1990 and represents the Society on the International Standards
Organisation Technical Committee 38, SCI, WG7 (Colour Measurement and Colour Fastness).
He also represents the School of Textiles and Design at the Association of Universities for
Textiles (AUTEX) and is currently the Chairman of this association. The aim of AUTEX is to
facilitate cooperation in high level textile education and research, and it has as members the
textile departments of Universities in thirty countries across Europe and two in the USA.
He is currently supervising three MPhil students, six PhD students and is co-supervising
another two.
Current research interests include:
visual and instrumental assessment of colour-difference;
visual assessment of colour depth;
visual assessment of simultaneous contrast;
colour formulation in synthetic stone;
fluid flow dynamics in dyeing machines;
objective measurement of carpet wear;
artificial intelligence for assessing faults in dyeing.
20
Dr Alex. Fotheringham
(see section 3.1.2)
A.F.Fotheringham@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892245
Dr Robert Mather
(see section 3.1.2)
R.R.Mather@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892235
Dr Lisa Macintyre
(see section 3.1.2)
L.M.Macintyre@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892234
Prof. George Stylios
(see section 3.1.1)
G.Stylios@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892135
Miss Gayle Poddubecki
G.Poddubecki@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892267
Administrator
Textile & Colour Science and Technology Research Group
Postgraduate Research Studentships
Current
Syed Iqdal Ahmed
Novel Coloration Techniques for the Dyeing of Polypropylene
Jim Bell
Development of a Colour Matching System for Stone Repair Mortars
Pippa Bell
Factors Affecting the Pressures Delivered by Pressure Garments
Gillian Fraser
The Development of Leather Based on Turkey Skins
Md. Amir Hamza
The Accuracy of Colour-Difference Formulae for Large Colour Differences
Alison Harris
The Crystal Engineering of Perylene Pigments
Hsiang-Yu Huang
Investigation of the Synthesis, Properties and Polymorphism of Compounds Related to CI Pigment Red 170
Md. Saiful Islam
The Design and Synthesis of Fluorescent Dyes for Improved Lightfastness
A. K. M. Saiful Islam
The Interconversion of Colorimetric Components of Colour Difference and Dyer’s Perceived Variables
Wasim Kaimouz
Comparison of the Performance of Textile Printing by Flat Screen and Digital Inkjet Processes
Bryony Lee
Carpet Performance Modelling and Prediction
Anna Little
Textile Applications of Photochromic Dyes
Jennifer Mackay
Enhanced Performance Coloured Polypropylene for Technical Textile Applications Using Crystal Engineered
Pigments
Olivier Morel
The Molecular Design and Synthesis of Heterocyclic Analogues of Nitroaniline-Based Semi-Permanent Hair Dyes
21
Chung-Min Pan
Investigation of the Synthesis and Application of Benzoxazinone Fluorescent Dyes
Yi-Jun Pan
The Influence of Substrate Type and Physical Structure on the Orientation and Crystallinity of Dye Molecules
Adsorbed on Cellulosic Surfaces
Md. Khairul Basher
Wool Dyeing with Metal-complex Dyes, and Removal of Deposits from the Fibre Surface after Dyeing
Md. Reduwan Billah Shah
The Molecular Design, Synthesis and Application of Water-Soluble Photochromic Dyes
Mukesh Kumar Sinha
The Effect of Dyeing on Ageing and Degradation of Nylon Nets
Ray-Chin Wu
Simultaneous Contrast Effects in Luminous and Non-Luminous Colours
Recent
Xiaoming Zhao, PhD (2004)
Investigation of the Nature of Package Dyeing Under a Variety of Dyeing Conditions Based on a Simulation and
Control System
Tanveer Hussain, PhD (2004)
A Fuzzy Expert System for Troubleshooting Problems in the Dyeing of Cotton Yarn with Reactive Dyes
Qufu Wei, PhD (2004)
Oil Absorption Behaviour of Polypropylene Fibres and Fibrous Assemblies
Gordon Allan, MPhil (2003)
A Neural Networks Approach to Identification of Animal Fibres
Jacqui Hill, PhD (2003)
An Investigation of Crystal Growth in the Solvent Treatment of Azo Pigments
Bruce Howie, PhD (2003)
Synthesis and Evaluation of Pigments with the Potential to Replace Compounds Based on 3,3’-Dichlorobenzidine
Ole Risnes, PhD (2003)
Ex-situ and In-situ Characterisation of Polypropylene Fibres by Scanning Probe Microscopy and Environmental
Scanning Electron Microscopy
Chia-Hsien Chang, PhD (2002)
An Investigation into Polymorphism and Structure/Property Relationships in Naphthol Azo Red Pigments
Chao-Chi Chen, PhD (2002)
The Interconversion of Colorimetric Components of Colour Difference and Dyer’s Perceived Variables
Hilary Redden, MPhil (2001)
Fleece Changes with Breeding and Maturation in Cashmere Producing Goats in Scotland
Li-Jen Chi, PhD (2000)
Synthesis and Computer-Aided Structural Investigation of Potentially Photochromic Spirooxazines
Chih-Hung Lui, PhD (2000)
Molecular Design and Synthesis of Coumarin Fluorescent Dyes
Imran Chughtai, PhD (1999)
The Influence of Synthesis Conditions on the Surface Character and Application Properties of Azo Pigments
22
3.2.2 Textile Design and Clothing Research Group
The Textile Design and Clothing Research Group provides a broad spectrum of research
activity at national and international levels. The prolific and diverse research output includes
both research practice and theoretical studies. The three main strands of the Group are
Design and Global Manufacture, Design and Visual Culture and Design at the Technology
Interface. This research has been enhanced by the recent appointment of Helen Storey as
Honorary Professor in Design.
The School’s activity in Design and Global Manufacture includes leading research into the
design exploitation of the incorporation of elastane (lycra) fibres into knitwear, yarn design
for coarse micron wool, and the innovative use of polyamide (Tactel) fibre for leading world
manufacturers. There is also considerable activity in the development of commercial designs
for the furnishing, apparel and the giftware industry aimed at the international mass market.
Designers regularly exhibit work at leading international design trade shows.
The School’s activity in the area of Design and Visual Culture includes key theoretical studies,
for example in the social significance of architecture, in buildings of historical significance, or
as represented as a motif on fabric, and in the visual expression of spirituality in art and
culture, in particular the value of visual culture to Christian worship in a contemporary
church environment.
The School’s research in Design at the Technology Interface includes both established and
emerging multidisciplinary activity, taking advantage of the unique group of staff from a
variety of disciplines. One specific key area utilises the light-emitting properties of optical
fibres incorporating novel applications of electronic and sound technology. Another exciting
area is involved with three-dimensional imaging of textiles to allow realistic representations
of fabric through computer simulation. Future planned research programmes include the
development of smart garments in conjunction with the Hunter Centre at Strathclyde
University and the development of safety wear in collaboration with a defence-related
company. There is considerable overlap also with the activities of RIFleX (see section 3.1.1)
involving, for example, design and aesthetic aspects of the use of shape memory materials.
In the Clothing area, the School made an important contribution to the SIZEUK initiative, a
recent major national sizing survey that involved taking measurements of 10,000 people
from across the UK. The aim of this survey was to assist retailers to produce better fitting
clothes.
The School, in particular Jayne Smith, lecturer in clothing technology, co-ordinated the
Scottish section of the survey, measuring 1200 men and women using cutting-edge 3D
body-scanning equipment. The database which has been produced as a result of the
initiative, is now being used by all major high street retailers.
23
Textile Design and Clothing Research Group - Staff
Ms Sarah Taylor BA, PGDip, MPhil
Reader in Textile Design
S.E.Taylor@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892148
Sarah gained a BA Honours degree in Textile Design at Winchester School of Art in 1991 and
obtained awards for fabric innovation and display. In 1992 she completed a Postgraduate
Diploma, with Distinction, in Textile Design at the School of Textiles, and was awarded an
MPhil in 1995. This research investigated fibre optic technology and novel yarn types for
woven textile materials.
During that year she gained sponsorship from Mitsubishi
Corporation Ltd., Tokyo, to continue her groundbreaking work with fibre optic technology.
Since completing her research degree, Sarah has consistently exhibited a range of new work
exploring the visual possibilities of optical fibre within woven fabric and the use of these
fibres within more product-led applications at National and International exhibitions. She
was recently short listed for the prestigious Jerwood Applied Arts Prize 2002, which
showcased her latest design work incorporating electronics and sound technology carried out
in collaboration with York Electronics Centre, University of York. Sarah continues to develop
her research within its multi-disciplinary context and to explore the possibilities of more
product-oriented design work.
24
Ms Jane Askey BA
Lecturer in Visual Studies
J.Askey@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892158
Jane graduated from Manchester Polytechnic in 1987 with a degree in Printed Textiles.
Since graduating Jane has lectured full-time and operated simultaneously as a free-lance
commercial textile/giftware designer. In 1991 Jane joined The Scottish College of Textiles as
a lecturer in Visual Studies. Between 1987 and 1997 Jane successfully exhibited at national
and international trade-fairs on a regular basis through textile design agents, further
enhancing her already established reputation as an International Textile Designer.
Jane’s other area of interest is in giftware and she has successfully developed new and
contemporary product ranges for Woodmansterne Publications, The Art Group, Paperlink Ltd.
and The National Trust. Her design work focuses on floral and decorative themes and all of
this work is paper based. Recently Jane has begun to exhibit artwork with the aim of
developing a new portfolio of work suitable for national and international exhibitions.
25
Mr Rob. Burton BA, MA
Lecturer in Printed Textile Design
R.Burton@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892240
Rob graduated from Liverpool Polytechnic in 1987 after studying on the BA (Hon) degree
course in Fashion/Textile Design in the area of printed textiles. He obtained an MA in Textile
Design specialising in printed glass for interior uses in 1989. Following his postgraduate
education Rob went on to gain experience working in a fashion print studio in New York and,
on returning to the UK, worked freelance designing furnishing fabrics. At this time he was
also working as a consultant on the development of printed shower screens for the
commercial bathroom interior market for Contour Doors Ltd., Cheshire.
After several periods of lecturing part-time, Rob began his full-time teaching career at
Stockport College, teaching printed textiles and general art and design subjects, before
coming to the School.
Rob has produced several large scale printed and decorative glass pieces for public as well
as domestic spaces specialising in etched and decorative glass for church interiors. He is a
practising artist and has exhibited widely throughout the UK. His paintings explore the
expression of the spiritual in abstract form and colour.
He is currently undertaking a PhD titled “An Investigation of the Value of Visual Culture to
Christian Worship in a Contemporary Church Environment”. His main interests are in the
visual expression of spirituality in art and visual culture and visual communication in the
post-modern environment.
Current research interests include:
the visual expression of spirituality in art and culture;
visual signs, symbols and codes;
visual culture and cultural theory;
Church and religious art, crafts and architecture;
culture, space and environment;
decoration in the built environment;
contemporary printed textiles for fashion and interiors;
visual meaning in everyday life;
religious painting and the altarpiece.
26
Mrs Sheila-Mary Carruthers ASCT, FTI
Part-time Lecturer in Fashion Textile Design, Design Consultant
S.M.Carruthers@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892193
Sheila-Mary graduated from the Scottish College of Textiles, winning the Dr Oliver medal.
She worked as a fabric designer for Textured Jersey and as a Fashion Advisor for Hoechst
UK and Henry Stuart before becoming a lecturer in Knit and Fashion Knit at the Scottish
College of Textiles. She currently lectures part-time, and runs her own Design Consultancy.
Current research interests include:
knitwear design for:
Crombie, Hawick Cashmere, Alan Paine, The
Woolmark Company, Body Wear, RTW Innovations design: Textured
Jersey;
design innovations and design marketing for: The Mix, Lochcarron of
Scotland, Holland and Sherry, Scottish Borders Council, Highlands and
Islands Development, Highland Craftpoint;
yarn design for: Wools of New Zealand.
Sheila-Mary is also actively involved with the Scottish Design Council and is a member of
various committees, as well as being a Design Council Member and Knitwear selection panel
member. She has worked with Borders Television on the researching and presentation of
two textiles programmes, and with Scottish Television programmes on textiles.
Her research for the last ten years has involved the introduction and development of Lycra®
into knitwear, and now a global design project is ongoing to develop knitwear using the
prestigious DuPont brands: Lycra®, Tactel®, Cordura®, Supplex®, Thermolite® and
Teflon®.
She is responsible for two innovation packages per year, which are delivered globally, and
she makes presentations twice a year at exhibitions such as Expofil, Pitti Filati, Filasia,
Premiere Vision, Texworld and Outdoor Retail, and to key brands and retailers.
27
Dr Britta Kalkreuter MA, PhD, ILTM
Lecturer in History of Art and Design
B.Kalkreuter@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892159
Britta received her Masters in History of Art, History and German Literature from Cologne
University in 1993. While working at the Museum for the History of the Federal Republic of
Germany (Haus der Geschichte der Bundesrepublik Deutschland) in Bonn, she finished her
PhD in History of Art at Cologne University in 1997. Britta's main research interests span the
areas of architecture on the one hand, and textiles on the other.
In 2001, her PhD on the history, fabric and context of the medieval Cistercian monastery of
Boyle in Ireland was published as a monograph by Wordwell Publishers, and launched in
2002 with a public lecture on the subject, producing considerable interest in the media. In
the same year, she authored an article on the use of architecture in furnishing fabrics in
response to an invited contribution to a book exploring ways of looking at architecture.
(Architektur und Stoffe in: Form und Stil. Wissenschaftliche Buchgesellschaft. Darmstadt
2001).
Britta has presented her research at a number of events, including to the 20th Century
Society (2002) and the Annual Convention of German Art Historians (2003) in Leipzig. An
investigation into the area of architecture in textiles is her principal current research interest.
Britta supervises research students in the History of Art and Design as well as practice-based
PhDs in Knit and Art.
28
Ms Fiona Pankhurst BA, PG Cert. Ed, ILTM
Part-time Lecturer in Woven Textile Design
F.M.Pankhurst@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892158
Fiona graduated from The Scottish College of Textiles in 1986, winning an award in the
prestigious RSA Design Competition in her final year. She worked as a designer of Donegal
Tweeds and Linens for the McNutt Weaving Co. Ltd in Ireland, before going on to work and
travel around the world, including Hong Kong and Australia, for almost two years. On her
return she worked briefly for a Chinese silk wallpaper specialist in London as a Design and
Sales Consultant, then headed north to Aberdeen to work as a Weave Designer for the well
known Crombie brand. Since then Fiona has lectured in Woven Textile Design at Galashiels,
and has also completed a number of consultancy projects for the Textile Industry.
Fiona's research involves producing two collections of concept designs per annum for a
London based agent. The designs are exhibited at leading international Textile Trade Fairs,
including Heimtextil (Frankfurt), Decosit/Indigo (Brussels) and Surtex (New York) and are
sold as concepts for bedding, decoration and weave for the apparel and home furnishings
markets. Her designs have been well received and have sold to clients in Spain, France, USA
and UK.
29
Mr Mark Parker BA, MA
Lecturer in Printed Textile Design
M.W.Parker@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892240
Mark is a graduate of Manchester Metropolitan University (1982) and obtained a Masters
degree from the University of Central England (1983). He lectured, full-time and part–time
in a variety of UK Art & Design Institutions before joining the School in 1987. Mark’s designs
are internationally respected and have been commissioned by a number of organisations and
commercialised by a range of internationally recognised companies. Examples of his work
include liberty fashion prints and Zoffany wall coverings.
Mark was the winner of the Crown Suppliers Fabric competition in 1989, two of his designs
being put into production by Calix & Canopus. In 1993/1994, funded by the Macmillan
Trust, he was commissioned to design fabrics and artwork for Whipps Cross Hospital. He
currently exhibits at leading Interior/Surface Pattern Trade Fairs, including Heimtextil
(Frankfurt), Decosit/Indigo (Brussels), and Surtex (New York) through textile design studio
Artisan/Rochester & Lake who have represented him since May 1999. Mark’s designs have
been taken up by companies in Europe, USA and Australia for a variety of furnishing textile
uses, including bedding, curtains, wall coverings and upholstery. He has also exhibited
paintings in both solo and group exhibitions in Edinburgh, London, Barcelona and has been
represented by the Anna Bornholt Gallery, London.
30
Mr Mark Timmins BA, MA, RCA, YDI
Lecturer in Knitted Textile Design
http://www.hw.ac.uk/sbc/SOTWeb/SOTStaff.html
M.Timmins@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892193
Mark joined the School in 1990. His academic background started at Liverpool Polytechnic,
and he obtained an MA in Fashion (Knitwear) from St Martins. He was selected as “RSA
Young Designer into Industry” after leaving Liverpool and spent eighteen months as a
commercial yarn designer for Courtaulds. After completing his MA, Mark spent three years
supplying Marks and Spencer plc, designing men's, women's and children's knitwear. He
moved to Plymouth College of Art to start his teaching career while continuing to develop
knitwear designs for the American and Far Eastern markets.
Mark is currently studying an MPhil/PhD on a project entitled “Man’s Handprint on the
Environment”, and he continues to exhibit his sculpture and photography, and is
permanently represented by the “New Craftsman”, St Ives, Cornwall. Mark is currently a coinvestigator in “Virtex”, an EPSRC funded multidisciplinary project, in conjunction with Dr
Mike Chantler of the School of Mathematics and Computer Science, on virtual textiles.
Current research interests include:
dental floss colouration;
solar energy gathering roof tiles;
laser cutting of fancy yarns;
fashion knitwear design;
smart garments and fabrics;
needle punch;
knitted fabric design;
photography;
sculpture.
31
Mr Ian McInnes
Senior Lecturer in Knitted Textile Design
I.M.McInnes@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892233
Lecturer in Clothing Production Management
Mr Iain McDonald
I.McDonald@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892246
Miss Judith Scott
Lecturer in Clothing, Fashion and Design
Judith.Scott@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892124
Mrs Jayne Smith
Lecturer in Pattern Cutting
J.Smith_2@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892147
Mrs Fiona Waldron
Senior Lecturer in Product Development
F.S.Waldron@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892146
Mrs Ruth Walker
Senior Lecturer in Woven Textile Design
R.F.Walker@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892176
Mrs Theresa Wilkinson
Lecturer in Fashion
T.M.Wilkinson@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892243
Miss Gayle Poddubecki
G.Poddubecki@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892267
Administrator
Textile Design and Clothing Research Group
Postgraduate Research Studentships
Current
Rob. Burton
An Investigation of the Value of Visual Culture to Christian Worship in a Contemporary Church Environment
Ian McInnes
Investigation of the Translation of Drawing Through the Weft Knitted Structure with the Aid of High Specification
Knit Production Technologies
Mark Timmins
Man’s Handprint on the Environment
Samantha Vettese
The Relationship between Fashion and Art Movement of the 20th Century
Theresa Wilkinson
Investigation in Introducing Creativity into Pattern Drafting
Recent
Anne Brown, PhD (2004)
Adaptable Learners - Positive Skills and Knowledge Transfer when Learning CAD
Keireine Canavan, PhD (2003)
Dayak to Digital
32
3.3 The TechniTex Faraday Partnership
http://www.technitex.org
http://www.faradaypartnerships.org.uk
TechniTex@BTTG.co.uk
Faraday Partnerships focus on improving the interaction between the British University
research base and industry through the involvement of a research and technology
organisation (RTO).
The Faraday Principles
Faraday Partnerships work together to research and exploit topics of mutual interest, aiming
to:
•
promote the two way flow of industrial technology and skilled people
between the science and engineering base and industry;
•
strengthen partnerships between industrially
organisations and the science and engineering base;
•
support core research underpinning product and process development;
•
enhance the relevance of postgraduate education and training for careers
in industry.
oriented
research
The TechniTex Faraday Partnership aims to provide a focus for research, design and the
development of new technologies and applications in the key and emerging manufacturing
sector of technical textiles. The Partnership brings together the academic strengths of
Heriot-Watt University (School of Textiles and Design), UMIST (Department of Textiles) and
the University of Leeds (School of Textiles and Design). BTTG, the RTO in this case, is
Europe’s largest independent textile technology organization. The Partnership represents a
combined national resource with internationally recognized knowledge and specialised skills.
The Partners and their expertise collectively represent:
•
academic excellence in technical textile technologies and the underpinning
academic disciplines;
•
experience in translation of industrial goals into academic challenges;
•
experience in the translation and transfer of academic understanding into
industrial practice.
The TechniTex core project started towards the end of 2002. The funding for this integrated
series of research projects is around £1,000,000 distributed roughly equally among the three
academic departments. The aim of the programme is to establish general scientific
principles associated with modelling, measurement and manufacturing processes associated
with technical textiles. The role of Heriot-Watt University in the core project is associated
with the coating processes used in technical textiles and has a particular focus on textiles for
medical applications. The aims are to establish the principles underlying the special features
33
of coated medical textile products and the optimisation of the coating processes. In addition
to the established core programme, a number of funded core-related projects are under
development.
Professor George Stylios is the Director of the TechniTex Faraday Partnership, and the
principal investigator of the core programme of TechniTex. The co-investigator is Dr Robert
Christie. There are two Research Associates, Manzoor Arain and Michael Wan.
TechniTex - Staff
Prof. George Stylios
Director and Principal Investigator
G.Stylios@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892135
(see section 3.1.1)
Dr Robert Christie
Co-Investigator
R.M.Christie@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892199
(see section 3.2.1)
Dr Manzoor Arain
M.Arain@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892261
Dr Michael Wan
Taoyu.Wan@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892267
Research Associate
Research Associate
(see section 3.1.1)
Mrs Lesley Lindsay
Administrator
34
L.A.Lindsay@hw.ac.uk
+44 (0) 1896 892130
4. Recent Research Output
Journal Articles
Christie R M, Chi L J, Spark R A, Morgan K M, Boyd A S F, Lycka A
The Application of Molecular Modelling Techniques in the Prediction of the Photochromic Behaviour of
Spiroindolinonaphthoxazines
Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology A: Chemistry, 169 (2004) 37-45
Macintyre L M, Baird M
Pressure Garments for Use in the Treatment of Hypertrophic Scars – an Evaluation of Current Construction Techniques in NHS
Hospitals
accepted for publication in BURNS, (2004)
Macintyre L M, Baird M
Pressure Garments for Use in the Treatment of Hypertrophic Scars – a Review of the Problems Associated with Their Use
accepted for publication in BURNS, (2004)
Macintyre L M, Baird M
The Study of Pressure Delivery for Hypertrophic Scar Treatment
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 16, 1/2 (2004) 173-183
Yang R D, Mather R R, Fotheringham A F
The Influence of Fibre Processing Parameters on the Structural Properties of As-Spun Polypropylene Filaments: a Factorial
Design Approach
Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 93 (2004) 568
Ekevall E, Golding C, Mather R R
Design of Textile Scaffolds for Tissue Engineering: the Use of Biodegradable Yarns
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 16 (2004) 184
Mather R R
Attracting Students to Technical Textiles – a Vital Challenge (provisional title)
accepted for publication in Technical Textiles International, (October 2004)
Wei Q F, Mather R R
Looking at Nanostructured Fibres in Atomic Force Microscopes
Technical Textiles International, (September 2004) 21-23
Wei Q F, Wang X Q, Mather R R
Surface Nanostructures Seen by Atomic Force Microscopy
Technical Textiles International, (May 2004) 33-35
Wu R, Wardman R H, Luo M R
A Comparison of Lightness Contrast Effects in CRT and Surface Colours
accepted for publication in Colour Research and Application, (2004)
Hussain T, Wardman R H, Shamey M R
A Knowledge-Based Expert System for Dyeing of Cotton. Part 1: Design and Development of the System
accepted for publication in Coloration Technology, (2004)
Hussain T, Wardman R H, Shamey M R
A Knowledge-Based Expert System for Dyeing of Cotton. Part 2: Testing and Evaluation of the System
accepted for publication in Coloration Technology, (2004)
Christie R M
Azo Pigments: Crystal Science and Engineering
Advances in Colour Science and Technology, 6 (2003) 1-6
35
Christie R M, Chang C H, Rosair G M
C.I. Pigment Red 266
Acta Crystallographic Section C, C59 (2003) 556-558
Christie R M, Monteith J E, Barrow M
An Investigation into the Crystal Structure of some Diarylide Yellow Pigments using Powder Diffraction
Surface Coatings International Part B, Coatings Transactions, 86 (2003) 247-252
Mather R R, Risnes O K, Neville A
Probing the Morphology of Polypropylene Fibres by Scanning Probe Microscopy
Polymer, 44 (2003) 89-100
Wei Q F, Mather R R, Fotheringham A F, Yang R D
Evaluation of Nonwoven Polypropylene Oil Sorbents in Marine Oil-Spill Recovery
Marine Pollution Bulletin, 46 (2003) 780
Risnes O K, Mather R R, Neville A, Buckman J
Ex-Situ and In-Situ Observation of Polypropylene Fibres by Scanning Electron Microscopy
Journal of Materials Science, 38 (2003) 2161
Mather R R, Wei Q F, Risnes O K, Buckman J, Fotheringham A F, Neville A
Synthetic Fibres Studied by Environmental Scanning Electron Microscopy
Microscopy and Analysis, 95 (2003) 9
Wei, Q, Mather R R, Fotheringham A F, Yang R D
Dynamic Wetting of Fibres Observed in the Environmental Scanning Electron Microscope
Textile Research Journal, 73 (2003) 557
Mather R R, Yang R D
Polypropylene Research at Heriot-Watt University
in Recent Research Developments in Applied Polymer Science, 2 (2003) 13
Mather R R, Fotheringham A F, Yang R D, Buckman J
ESEM Study of Oil Wetting Behaviour of Polypropylene Fibres
Oil and Gas Science and Technology, 58 (2003) 593-597
Wei Q F, Wang X Q, Mather R R, Fotheringham A F
ESEM Study of Size Removal from Ceramic Fibres by Plasma Treatment
Applied Surface Science, 220 (2003) 217
Stylios G K
The Effect of Low Temperature Plasma Treatment on the Scouring and Dyeing Processes of Natural Fabrics
accepted for publication in Textile Research Journal, (2003)
Christie R M, Barrow M, Badcock T D
The Crystal and Molecular Structure of C.I. Pigment Yellow 83, a Superior Performance Diarylide Yellow Pigment
Dyes and Pigments, 57 (2002) 99-106
Christie R M, Barrow M, Monteith J E
The Crystal and Molecular Structures of Three Diarylide Yellow Pigments, C.I. Pigments 13, 14 and 63
Dyes and Pigments, 55 (2002) 79-89
Fotheringham A F, Mather R R, Yang R D, Wei Q F
Observation of Wetting Behaviour of Polypropylene Microfibres by Environmental Scanning Electron Microscopy
Journal of Aerosol Science, 33 (2002) 1589-1593
Mather R R, Fotheringham A F, Yang R D, Wei Q F
Environmental Scanning Microscope in Research
Technical Textiles International, (2002) 19-21
36
Wilson J, Mather R R
Textiles make Solar Cells that are Flexible and Lightweight
Technical Textiles International, (2002) 5-6
Morgan K, Bailey P D, Rosair G M, Smith P D
The use of the aza-Diels-Alder Reaction in the Synthesis of Pinidine and other Piperidine Alkaloids
Tetrahedron Letters, 43 (2002) 1071-1074
Stylios G K, Powell N, Cheng L
An Investigation into the Engineering of the Drapability of Fabrics
Transactions of the Institute of Measurement and Control, 24 (2002) 33-51
Wardman R H, Chen C C, Smith K J
The Mapping of Surface of Constant Visual Depth in CIELAB Colour Space
Coloration Technology, 118 (2002) 281-294
Abraham D
Polymerisation of Pyrrole and Processing of the Resulting Polypyrrole as Blends with Plasticised PVC
Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 81 (2001) 1544-1548
Allan G, Yang R D, Mather R R, Fotheringham A F
Neural Modelling of Polypropylene Fibre Processing: Predicting the Structure and Properties Identifying the Control Parameters
for Specified Fibres
Journal of Materials Science, 36 (2001) 3113-3118
Christie R M, Robson D, Hill J
Analysis of the Crystal Growth of Pigments in Solvents, by Scanning Electron Microscopy
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists Review, 1 (2001) 29-32
Yang R D, Mather R R, Fotheringham A F
The Application of Factorial Experimental Design to the Processing of Polypropylene Fibres
Journal of Materials Science, 36 (2001) 3097-3101
Mather R R
Intelligent Textiles
Review of Progress in Coloration, 31 (2001) 36-41
Morgan K, Bailey P D, Everitt S R L, Brewster A G
Asymmetric Synthesis and Conformational Analysis of New C2-symmetric Macrocycles based
on Head-to-Head Linked alpha-Amino Acids and Benzene or Pyridine
Tetrahedron, 57 (2001) 1379-1386
Stylios G K, Han F, Wan T R
A Remote On-line 3D Human Measurement and Reconstruction Approach for Virtual Wearer Trials in Global Retailing
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 13, No. 1 (2001) 65
Christie R M, Standring P, Monteith J E, Barrow M, Lough A J
The Crystal Structure of C.I. Pigment Yellow 12
Dyes and Pigments, 45 (2000) 153-160
Christie R M, Lui C-H
Studies of Fluorescent Dyes: Part 2. An Investigation of the Synthesis and Spectral Properties
of 3'-(2-Benzimidazolyl)Coumarins
Dyes and Pigments, 47 (2000) 79-89
Bailey P D, Boyd C A, Bronk J, Collier I D, Meredith D, Morgan K, Temple C S
How to Make Drugs Orally Active: A Substrate Template for Peptide Transporter PEPT1
Angewandte Chemie, International Edition, 39 (2000) 505-508
Bailey P D, Morgan K, Vernon J M
New Asymmetric Routes to Ajmaline and Suaveoline Indole Alkaloids
Journal of the Chemical Society, Perkin Transactions 1, (2000) 3566-3577
37
Robson D
Animal Fibre Analysis Using Imaging Techniques: Part II: Addition of Scale Height Data
Textile Research Journal, 70 (2000) 116-120
Robson D, Long C C
Drape Analysis Using Imaging Techniques
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 18 (2000) 1-8
Cowie J M G, Arrighi V, Cameron J D, Robson D
Lyotropic Liquid Crystalline Cellulose Derivatives in Blends and Molecular Composities
Macromolecular Symposia, 152 (2000) 107-116
Shamey M R, Nobbs J H
The Use of Colorimetry in the Control of Dyeing Machinery
Textile Chemist and Colorist, 32 (2000) 32-37
Shamey M R, Nobbs J H
The Application of Feed-Forward Exhaustion Profiles in The Control of Dyeing Machinery
Textile Chemist and Colorist, 32 (2000) 47-52
Taylor S
New Departures in Textiles: "Woven Light-Emitting Material"
Textile Forum, 3 (2000) 18-19
Baird M, Macintyre L, Hassall C, Weedall P
Elastic Fabrics for the Treatment of Hypertrophic Scars - Comfort and Colour
Technical Textiles International, 8, No. 9 (1999) 19-22
Christie R M, Lui C-H
Studies of Fluorescent Dyes: Part 1. An Investigation of the Spectral Properties of Substituted Coumarins
Dyes and Pigments, 42 (1999) 85-93
Mather R R, Taylor D
Investigation of the Heterogeneity of Organic Pigment Particle Surfaces by a Film Flotation
Dyes and Pigments, 43 (1999) 47-50
Mather R R
The Effect of Crystal Properties on the Manufacture and Application Performance of Copper
Phthalocyanine Pigments
Journal of Porphyrins and Phthalocyanines, 3 (1999) 643-646
Mather R R
The Degree of Crystal Aggregation in Organic Pigments
Dyes and Pigments, 42 (1999) 103
Bailey P D, Cochrane E, Irvine F, Pearson D P J, Morgan K, Veal K T
Swern Oxidation of Tryptamine Derivatives
Tetrahedron Letters, 40 (1999) 4593-4596
Bailey P D, Cochrane E, Foerster A H, Morgan K, Pearson D P J
Synthesis of Polycyclic Indolic Structures
Tetrahedron Letters, 40 (1999) 4597-4600
Chisholm G, Harris K D M, Hay B, Kitchen S J, Morgan K
The Effect of Fluorination on the Optical Properties of Organic Pigments
Dyes and Pigments, 42 (1999) 159-172
Shamey M R, Nobbs J H
Computer Control of Batchwise Dyeing of Reactive Dyes on Cotton
Textile Chemist and Colorist, 31 (1999) 35-39
38
Shamey M R, Nobbs J H
Dyebath pH Control Under Dynamic Conditions, Fact or Fiction?
Textile Chemist and Colorist, 31 (1999) 21-26
Stylios G K, Wan T R
The Concept of Virtual Measurement
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 11, No. 1 (1999) 10-18
Taylor S, Jones B
Let There be Light
International Textiles, 805 (1999) 39-41
Conference contributions
Macintyre L M, Baird M, Weedall P
A Study of Elastic Fabrics for Use in the Treatment of Hypertrophic Scars – winner of best paper
British Burn Association 37th Annual Meeting
Manchester Conference Centre, Manchester, (April 2004)
Wei Q F, Mather R R, Wang X Q, Fotheringham A F
Functional Nanostructures Generated by Plasma-Enhanced Modifications of the Fibre Surface
Polymer Fibres 2004 Conference
Manchester, (July 2004)
Warren J M, Mather R R, Neville A, Robson D
Gas Plasma Treatments of Polypropylene Tape
Polymer Fibres 2004 Conference
Manchester, (July 2004)
Wei Q F, Mather R R, Fotheringham A F
Dynamic Studies of Polypropylene Nonwovens
AUTEX 2003
Roubaix, France, (June 2004)
Wardman R H, Lee B J
The Suitability of Image Analysis Algorithms for the Assessment of Wear in Carpets
2nd International Textile, Clothing and Design Conference
Dubrovnik, Croatia, (October 2004)
Wardman R H
Research in Textiles and Clothing: Responding to a Challenging Decade Ahead
2004 International Textiles Congress
Terrassa, Spain, (October 2004)
X Zhao, Wardman R H, Shamey M R
Quality Dyeing for Quality Textiles by Modelling and Simulation
Proceedings of Textile Institute, 83rd World Conference
Shanghai, China, (May 2004)
Christie R M, Mather R R, Shamey M R, Iqbal S A
The Effect of Pigmentation on Tenacity of Polypropylene Fibres
INTEDEC 2003
Heriot-Watt University, Edinburgh, (September 2003)
Christie R M, Morgan K M, Morel O J
The Molecular Design and Synthesis of Heterocyclic Analogues of Nitroaniline-Based Semi-Permanent Hair Dyes
Royal Society of Chemistry Organic Division, 32nd Scottish Regional Meeting
Edinburgh University, Edinburgh, (December 2003)
39
Christie R M
The Fundamentals of Functional Dyes and Pigments
Invited Lecture at Conference of High Performance Pigments 2003
Atlanta, USA, (May 2003)
Christie R M
Azo Pigments: Crystal Science and Engineering
Invited Lecture at Conference of High Performance Pigments 2003
Atlanta, USA, (May 2003)
Kalkreuter B
The Representation of Architecture in Printed Fabrics
Annual Convention of Association of German Art Historians
Deuscher Kunsthistorikertag, Leipzig, Germany, (March 2003)
Macintyre L M, Baird M, Weedall P
The Study of Pressure Delivery for Hypertrophic Scar Treatment
INTEDEC 2003
Heriot-Watt University, Edinburgh, (September 2003)
Macintyre L M, Baird M, Weedall P
The Study of Pressure Delivery for Hypertrophic Scar Treatment
MEDTEX 2003
Bolton Institute, Bolton, (July 2003)
Mather R R, Robson D, Fotheringham A F, Wei Q F, Warren J M
The Effects of Gas Plasma Treatments of Textiles on their Technological and Aesthetic Properties
INTEDEC 2003
Heriot-Watt University, Edinburgh, (September 2003)
Ekevall E, Wilson J I B, Mather R R
The Effect of Ammonia and Sulphur Dioxide Gas Plasma Treatments on Polymer Surfaces
MEDTEX 2003
Bolton Institute, Bolton, (July 2003)
Golding C, Ekevall E, Wallace S R, Mather R R
The Effect of Degradation on the Mechanical Properties of Biodegradable Yarns and Textiles
MEDTEX 2003
Bolton Institute, Bolton, (July 2003)
Risnes O K, Mather R R, Neville A, Buckman J
The Application of Advanced Microscopy Techniques to Characterise Polypropylene Filaments
The Fibre Society 2003 Spring Symposium
Loughborough, (June-July 2003)
Yi Guo, Stylios G K
The Application of Cognitive Psychological Model in Automatic Text Summarisation
Technomathematics Research Foundation’s 2nd International Conference on Applied Artificial Intelligence, (ICAAI 2003)
Fort Panhala, Kolhapur, India, (December 2003)
Yi Guo, Stylios G K
An Intelligent Algorithm for Automatic Document Summarisation
IEEE International Conference on Natural Language Processing and Knowledge Engineering, (NLP-KE 2003)
Beijing, China, (October 2003)
Stylios G K
Investigating an Interactive Wireless Textile System for SMART Clothing
IEEE International Conference on Natural Language Processing and Knowledge Engineering, (NLP-KE 2003)
Beijing, China, (October 2003)
Stylios G K, Luo L
Investigating an Interactive Wireless Textile System for SMART Clothing
INTEDEC 2003
Heriot-Watt University, Edinburgh, (September 2003)
40
Stylios G K, Han F
Modelling Humans for Virtual Garments
INTEDEC 2003
Heriot-Watt University, Edinburgh, (September 2003)
Stylios G K, Luo L
The Concept of SMART Garments for Patient Rehabilitation
HERCMA 2003
Greece, (September 2003)
R C C Winchester, Stylios G K
The Concept of Designing and Engineering Knitted Textiles Using Shape Memory Alloy
Advanced Flexible Materials and Structures: Engineering with Fibres; The Fibre Society 2003 Spring Symposium
Loughborough, (June-July 2003)
Chan Y Y F, Stylios G K
Engineering the Design Attributes of Woven Interior Textiles Using Shape Memory Polymer
Advanced Flexible Materials and Structures: Engineering with Fibres; The Fibre Society 2003 Spring Symposium
Loughborough, (June-July 2003)
Yi Guo, Stylios G K
A New Multi-Document Summarisation System
DUC 2003; Workshop on Text Summarisation, Presented at the 2003 Human Language Technology and North American
Association for Computational Linguistics Conference, (HLT-NAACL 2003)
Edmonton, Canada, (May-June 2003)
Stylios G K
Automatic Measurement and Optimisation System for Flexible Composite Materials
Advances in Composite Technology, 5th International Symposium on Advanced Composites
Greece, (May 2003)
Stylios G K
The Concept of SMART Textiles
Survival Conference
The University of Leeds, Leeds, (2003)
Taylor S
“Working with Fibre Optics” and "No Frills 2"
The 12th European Textile Network (ETN) Conference
Prato, Italy, (September 2003)
Lee B J, Robson D, Wardman R H
Colour-Texture Relationships in Carpet Wear
3rd AUTEX Annual Conference
Gdansk, Poland, (June 2003)
Christie R M, Morgan K M, Morel O
The Molecular Design of Heterocyclic Analogues of Nitroaniline-Based Semi-Permanent Hair Dyes
Cosmetic Science for a Global Marketplace: 22nd Congress of the International Federation of the Societies of Cosmetic Chemists
Edinburgh, (September 2002)
Christie R M
Azo Pigments: Crystal Science and Engineering
Plenary Lecture at Colorchem 2002, International Conference on Colour Chemistry
Spindleruv Mlyn, Czech Republic, (May 2002)
Kalkreuter B
Architecture into Textiles
Annual Study Weekend: the 20th Century Society, Archive of Heriot-Watt University
Heriot-Watt University, Galashiels, (July 2002)
41
Kalkreuter B
Boyle Abbey and the School of the West
Public Lecture, at the Launch of the Publication of the Same Title
Boyle, Ireland, (July 2002)
Chan Y Y F, Winchester R C C, Wan M, Stylios G K
The Concept of Aesthetic Intelligence of Textile Fabrics and Their Application for Interior and Apparel
IFFTI 2002, International Conference
Hong Kong, (November 2002)
Stylios G K
Fabric Automatic Measurement and Optimisation Universal System for the Textile, Garment and Retailing Industries
2nd AUTEX Annual Conference
Belgium, (July 2002)
Stylios G K
TechniTex: Present Status and Future Potential
2nd Annual Conference, TechniTex Partnership in Technical Textiles
Leeds Royal Armouries, Leeds, (2002)
Stylios G K, Powell N J
Engineering the Drapability of Textile Fabrics
Book of Proceedings, International Textile, Clothing and Design Conference, ITC&DC
Magic World of Textiles, (2002) 406
Wardman R H, Chen C C, Smith K J
The Determination of a Surface of Equal Visual Depth in L*a*b* Colour Space
Color and Textiles, AIC Color 2002 SI, International Conference,
Maribor, Slovenia, (2002)
Burton R, Timmins M
The Influence of Tradition in the Design, Identity and Use of Contemparory Spaces for Presbyterian Worship in Scotland
Traditional Environments in a New Millennium, International Conference
Amasya, Turkey, (June 2001)
Burton R, Timmins M
The Transformation of the Visual Culture of Worship in a Secular Society
Transforming Tradition
University of Durham, (January 2001)
Fotheringham A F, Allan G, Weedall P
The Use of Plasma and Neural Modelling to Optimise the Application of a Repellant Coating to Disposable Surgical Garments
1st AUTEX Annual Conference
Oporto, Portugal, (June 2001)
Fotheringham A F, Yang R D, Mather R R
The Processing of Polypropylene Fibres for Technical Textiles: The Application of Factorial Experimental Designs
1st AUTEX Annual Conference
Oporto, Portugal, (June 2001)
Robson D, Latimer J
Evaluation of Knitted Woollen Fabric Performance using Computer Imaging
1st AUTEX Annual Conference, Textile Education and Research 2001 [Special Session on Information Technology]
Oporto, Portugal, II (2001) 231
Robson D, MacLeod S R B, Brown P J
Instrumental Analysis of Synthetic Fibre Quantity in Nonwoven Material
1st AUTEX Annual Conference, TechniTex 2001, Technical Textiles: Designing Textiles for Technical Applications
Oporto, Portugal, I (2001) 421
Stylios G K
Engineering the Performance and Functional Properties of Technical Textiles
Annual Faraday Conference, Technical Textiles at the Extreme
Edinburgh, (2001)
42
Stylios G K
The Cloning of Aesthetic Attributes in Fashion Design and Manufacture
International Textiles Congress
Spain, (June 2001)
Stylios G K
Cloning the Aesthetic Properties for Ideal Textiles and Fashion
Athens University, Greece, (February 2001)
Taylor S
An Investigation into Fibre Optic Technology and Novel Yarn Types for Textile Materials
A Twist in the Yarn, Technology Conference
Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester, (February 2001)
Christie R M
Molecular Design and Synthesis of Coumarin Fluorescent Dyes
Colorchem 2000, International Conference on Colour Chemistry
Spindleruv Mlyn, Czech Republic, (May 2000)
Ekevall E
Medical Textiles
Biotech Opportunities for Textile Buyers and Suppliers, Invited Seminar for BTTG
Manchester, (January 2000)
Stylios G K, Powell N J
The Cloning of Aesthetic Attributes in Fashion Design and Manufacture
IFFTI 2000
Gothenberg, Sweden, (October 2000)
Stylios G K
The Principle and Implementation of the FAMOUS Concept in Textile, Garment and Retailing Industries
Hawaii, USA, (2000)
Taylor S
Light–Emitting Material
WearComp-CommunicationWear Technology Symposium
Modeschule, Vienna, Austria, (November 2000)
Taylor S
Fibre Optics – Smart Material!
Association of Heads of Fashion Textiles National Conference
Blackpool, (October 2000)
Taylor S
Woven Light–Emitting Material
Fibreface Conference
Polytechnic of Southwest Finland, Institute of Art, Craft and Design, Mynamaki, Finland, (June 2000)
Taylor S
Woven Light–Emitting Material
80th World Conference of the Textile Institute
Manchester, (April 2000)
Allan G, Fotheringham A F, Yang R D, Mather R R
Prediction of the Crystalline Structure of As-Spun Polypropylene Fibre
Third International Conference on New Products and Production Technologies for a New Textile Industry
Gent University, Belgium, (July 1999) 292-299
Brown A, Baird M
Flexibility in Computer Assisted Learning (FinCAL)
Computer Aided Engineering Education (CAEE 1999)
Sophia, Bulgaria, 1 (1999) 98-104
43
Baird M, Macintyre L M, Weedall P
Elastic Fabrics for use in the Treatment of Hypertrophic Scars
Third International Conference on New Products and Production Technologies for a New Textile Industry
Gent University, Belgium, (July 1999) 292-299
Christie R M
Functional Dyes and Pigments
Colour Chemistry, International Conference, Oriental Institute of Technology
Panchiao, Taiwan, (1999)
Yang R D, Mather R R, Fotheringham A F
Processing of Polypropylene Fibres for Nonwoven Applications: An Approach Using a Factorial Experiemntal Design
Proceedings of Seminar on Dry Laid Nonwovens
Wakefield, Paper 9 (1999)
Burton R, Timmins M
246 Cups
Living in a Material World
Coventry University, School of Art and Design, (1999)
Brydon D L, Mather R R, Fotheringham A F, Yang R D
The Technical and Commercial Potential of Polypropylene Fibre Products in the Next Century
Proceedings of the World Textile Congress on Textiles in the Millennium,
Huddersfield, (1999) 33-39
Macintyre L M, Baird, Weedall P
Elastic Fabrics for use in the Treatment of Hypertrophic Scars
Medical Textiles '99 Conference
Bolton Institute, Bolton, (August 1999) 74-81
Stylios G K
The Cloning of Aesthetic Attributes of Ideal Fabrics
Proceedings of the 10th International DAAAM Symposium
Vienna University of Technology, Austria, (1999)
Stylios G K
The Future of CAD in Apparel Industries
IAF 15th World Apparel Convention
Sun City, South Africa, (1999)
Stylios G K, Wan T R
Artificial Garments for Synthetic Himans in Global Retailing
British Computer Society; Digital Media Futures Conference
Bradford, (1999)
Taylor S
Textile Futures – Research or Die: Fabrics That do Amazing Things
Creative Summit Conference
University of Sunderland, (1999)
44
Authored Books
Stylios G K
International Textile and Clothing Research Register
Emerald, 15, No. 6 (2003)
Christie R M
The Organic and Inorganic Chemistry of Pigments
Oil and Colour Chemists Association, London, (2002)
Stylios G K
International Textile and Clothing Research Register
Emerald, 14, No. 6 (2002)
Christie R M
Colour Chemistry
The Royal Society of Chemistry, London, (2001)
Kalkreuter B
Boyle Abbey and the School of the West
Bray: Wordwell Ltd. (Wordwell Monograph Series No. 2), (2001)
Stylios G K
International Textile and Clothing Research Register
Emerald, 13, No. 6 (2001)
Stylios G K
International Textile and Clothing Research Register
Emerald, 12, No. 6 (2000)
Christie R M, Mather R R, Wardman R H
The Chemistry of Colour Application
Blackwell Science Ltd., (2000)
Burton R, Timmins M
246 Cups
Living in a Material World, Issue 1, (1999)
chapters
Mather R R
Polyolefin Fibres
Synthetic Fibres, (Ed. by J E McIntyre)
Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, (2004)
Kalkreuter B
Architektur und Stoffe. Uberlegungen zu bedruckten Dekostoffen der Donald Brothers Ltd. Im Archiv der Heriot-Watt
University
In: Form und Stil (Ed. by Stefanie Lieb for Wissenschaftliche Buchgesekkschaft Darmstadt), (2001)
Brown A, Baird M
Skills and Knowledge Transfer: The Effective Teaching of Computer Aided Design (CAD) in Higher Education
Civil Engineering Learning Technology, (Ed. by Lloyd R M and Moore C J)
Thomas Telford, London, (1999) 21-28
45
Exhibitions
Taylor S
Three Woven Light-emitting Exhibits Exploring New Material Concepts Exploiting the use of Optical Fibres, Electronics and
Sound Technology
Short listed nominee for Jerwood Applied Arts Prize 2002: Textiles
Ettrick Riverside, Selkirk, (September-October 2003)
Ulster Museum, Ireland, (May-July 2003)
Crafts Council of Ireland, Kilkenny, Ireland, (March-May 2003)
Salford Museum & Art Gallery, Manchester, January-March 2003)
Crafts Council Gallery, London, (September-November 2002)
Taylor S
Coming to Our Senses
Interactive Fibre Optic Panel in collaboration with York Electronics Centre, University of York
Newport Museum and Art Gallery, Newport, (December 2002-February 2003)
Summerlee Heritage Park, Russell-Cotes Gallery, Bournemouth, (May-November 2002)
Bracknell Arts Centre, Bracknell, January-April 2002)
The Ucheldre Centre, Anglesey, (October 2001-January 2002)
Bilston Craft Gallery, Wolverhampton, (July-October 2001)
McManus Galleries, Dundee, (March-June 2001)
Wosley Art Gallery, Ipswich, (December 2000-March 2001)
Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery, Birmingham, (August-October 2000)
Parker M
Printed Textile Designs
New Fabrics shown at Decosit
Brussells, Belgium, (September 2002)
Parker M
Printed Textile Designs
New Fabrics shown at Surtex
New York, USA, (May 2002)
Parker M
Printed Textile Designs
New Fabrics shown at Heimtextil
Frankfurt, Germany, (January 2002)
Taylor S
Artists at Work
New Technology in Textile and Fibre Art
Museo del Tessuto, Prato, Italy, (September-November 2002)
Askey J
An Exhibition of Paintings
Blackadder Gallery, Edinburgh, (May to September 2001)
Parker M
Printed Textile Designs
New Fabrics shown at Heimtextil
Frankfurt, Germany, (September 2001)
Taylor S
Light–Emitting Material: Colour, Movement ,Tactility and Sound“
The Play of Light and Music on Fabric in Fashion Study Day
The Costume Society, Winchester, (October 2001)
Taylor S
Mental: Fibre Optic Design Development for the Collaborative Interactive Figure Installation
"First, Last, Everything” for the British fashion designer Helen Storey
Institute of Contemporary Art, London, (July 2001)
Oksnehallen, Copenhagen, Denmark, (April 2001)
46
Taylor S
Addressing the Century: 100 Years of Art and Fashion
Spinal Column Dress from the Collection
King’s College, London, (October-November 2001)
London College of Fashion, London, (July 2001)
Expo 2000 ,British Pavillion, (June-October 2000)
Exploratorium, San Francisco, USA, (March-September 2000)
Oksnehallen, Copenhagen, Denmark, (January 2000)
World Finance Centre, New York, USA, (Summer 1999)
1999 Mystic Art Association, Connecticut, USA, (April-May 1999)
The Museum of Costume, Bath, (February-April 1999)
Kunstmuseum, Wolfsburg, Germany, (February-May 1999)
Taylor S
Walt Disney World Millennium Celebration: Seeing Scotland in a New Light
Design images representing Scottish Enterprise and Epcot
Walt Disney World Resort, Orlando, Florida, USA, (October 1999-January 2001)
Parker M
Tete a Tete
Barcelona, Spain, (2000)
Parker M
Furnishing Fabric Designs
Heimtextil
Frankfurt, Germany, (2000)
Parker M
Furnishing Fabric Designs
Decosit/Indigo
Brussells, Belgium, (1999)
Parker M
Furnishing Fabric Designs
Artisan Decorative Textile Designers
New York, USA, (1999)
Taylor S
Woven Light – Emitting Glove
National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London, (1999)
Taylor S
“Primitive Streak”
Design and Development for Optical Fibre Pieces for Spinal Column Dress, White Nerve Net Dress, Fibre Optic Nerve Net Dress
and Neural Induction Dress
Collaboration with Helen Storey, catalogue produced by Pfizer Inc.
The Hayward Gallery, London, (October 1998-January 1999)
Beijing and Shanghai, China, in conjunction with 'The Institute of Contemporary Arts in China', (October 1998)
Quartier 206, Berlin, Germany, (August-September 1998)
Cornerhouse Arts Centre, Manchester, (July-August 1998)
Centre for Performing Arts, Tel Aviv, Israel, (May 1998)
Pfizer Headquarters, Sandwich, Kent, (March 1998)
Institute of Contemporary Art, London, (October 1997)
47
other output
Stylios G K
Textile design and engineering
Editorial in International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 15, No. 2 (2003)
Stylios G K
Technical Textiles are Known for Their Performance and Functionality
Editorial in International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 15, No. 1 (2003)
Niwa M, Matsudaira M, Stylios G K
Mt Fuji Research Symposium
Editorial, Emerald, 14, No. 3/4 (2002)
Stylios G K
Nono-Fibres; Elusion, Confusion or a New High Tech Scope?
Editorial in International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 14, No. 5 (2002)
Stylios G K
The Exciting World of Technical Textiles
Editorial in International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 14, No. 2 (2002)
Stylios G K
A Tribute to Professor Sueo Kawabata
Editorial in International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 14, No. 1 (2002)
Stylios G K
The UK is to Start a National Sizing Survey in Partnership with Academe and Industry
Editorial in International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 13, No. 5 (2001)
Stylios G K
Seam Free Knitting; From Garments to Houses, Cars and Aeroplanes
Editorial in International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 13, No. 2 (2001)
Stylios G K
Clothing Modelling and Beyond
Editorial in International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 13, No. 1 (2001)
Taylor S
“Body Chemistry” showing First, Last, Everything piece, from the Mental Exhibition
Financial Times Weekend FT magazine, (30 June 2001) 32
Taylor S
Etoilef Brillantes Au Firmanent Des Tissus
Textile Forum: Licht La Lumiere, No. 92 (2001) 15-16
Taylor S
Techno Textiles
Saab Magazine, by Liz Hoggard, No. 2 (2001) 30-32
Taylor S
Reviews: ”Coming to our Senses Exhibition”
Crafts, by Philippa Swan, (July-August 2001) 53-54
Taylor S
“The Mix” Interior Colour Forecast, Autumn/Winter 2001/02
Global Colour Research Ltd
London, (2000)
48
Taylor S
Reviews: "Touchy - Feely Art"
Art Review, Dave Freak, L11, (November 2000) 68
Askey J
Design for Home Furnishings
The National Trust, (1999)
Askey J
Greeting Card Designs
Successfully Launched by Paperlink Ltd, London for Year 2000, (1999)
Carruthers S-M
50 Years of Fashion – Crucial Moments
Presentation to Fashion Editors and Journalists and TV
Seville, Spain, (1999)
Stylios G K, Kawabata S
Fibre Science to Apparel Engineering
Editorial in International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 11, No. 2/3 (1999)
Stylios G K
A Case Study of the Use of Objective Measurement Technologies for Textile Trading
Editorial in International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 11, No. 4 (1999)
Stylios G K
Textile Genetics into the Twenty-First Century
Editorial in International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 11, No. 5 (1999)
Stylios G K
International Textile and Clothing Research Register: ITCRR: Global Integration of Research Efforts
Editorial in International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 11, No. 6 (1999)
Stylios G K
Status and Future Prospects of the Textile and Garment Industries
Presentation to the Regional Directors of the DTI
Leeds, (1999)
Stylios G K
The Concept of Engineering Ideal Fabrics
Invited Presentation to the Joint Halifax and Bradford Textile Societies
Huddersfield, (1999)
Taylor S
Let there be light
International Textiles, Barbara Jones, Issue 805 (July 1999) 39-41
Taylor S
Technofile – Fashion
Sky News, (broadcast 20 September 1999)
49
5. Facilities
We are proud to be one of the leading universities in textiles, and possess some of the best
teaching and research facilities in the UK and Europe. Our dyeing, production, finishing and
printing workshops are equipped with some of the most advanced machinery in various
sectors, as well as conventional production machinery.
The following is a selection of our machinery and equipment.
Textile printing facilities for screen production and printing, including:
• Btree CAD system for design, colouration and screen making
• Photographic enlarger
• Zimmer sample flat screen print table (magnetic squeeze)
Yarn production, including:
Fancy yarn production
Short Staple yarn production
• Gemmill & Dunsmore Mark 3 hollow
spindle fancy yarn machine
• Allma fancy twisting machine
Worsted yarn production
Filament yarn production
• ESL spinner screw extruder (melt spinning of high performance synthetic fibres)
• ESL bench extruder (with temperature-regulated water bath) picture 1
• Ram extruder (with water bath/air quench)
• ESL pilot plant scale hot drawing and heat treatment synthetic fibre equipment
Textile colouration and dyeing, including:
• Benz sample jig dyeing machine
• Roaches M10 soft flow jet dyeing machine (2-20 m) picture 2
• Zeltx 16-tube laboratory dyeing machines with micro processor control
• Roaches sample package dyeing machine
• Roaches combined H T over/steamer
• Roaches padder
Textile finishing:
• Star steamer
• Sanderson autoclave
• Flat bed press
Europlasma plasma treatment machine
Ray-Ran injection moulding machine
picture 3
picture 4
Branson 2000 ultrasonic welder, for ultrasonic welding of polymers
picture 1
picture 2
ESL bench extruder
Roaches jet
Europlasma plasma
dyeing machine treatment machine
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picture 3
picture 5
picture 4
picture 5
Injection
moulder
Ultrasonic
welder
Textile Evaluation and Testing
Fabrics
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics - handle and tailorability
CSIRO ‘FAST’ system for fabrics - tailorability
WIRA stem cylinder - dimensional stability of fabrics
Martindale fabric abrasion testers
Instron tensile testers
Nene tensile tester
WIRA shower tester
ICI pilling box
Crease recovery tester
Yarns
•
•
•
•
•
Uster tester 3
Shirley yarn abrasion tester
Rothschild yarn friction tester
Moisture meter and driers
Twist and crimp testers
Fibres
•
•
•
•
Shirley fineness/maturity tester for cotton
WIRA fibre diagram machine
Projection microscope - fibre diameter
Air flow - wool and cotton fibre fineness
Colour Fastness
•
•
•
•
•
Roaches heat test unit
Persirometer
SDC wash wheel - fastness testing
Xenotest 150S light fastness machine
Crockmeters - manual, electric
Flammability
• Stanton Redcroft limiting oxygen index apparatus
General
Image analysis:
• 3 Semper VI systems
o fibre identification
o measurement of fabric creasing
o dimensional changes in fabrics
• Scanning electron microscope
Colour Measurement
• Datacolour Colour Management System
• Hunterlab spectrocolorimeter
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Clothing Production
• ‘Lectra System’: 20 workstations, scanner-printer, digitiser and single-sheet plotter
for clothing design, pattern development, grading and marker planning – the whole
system has been updated with new hardware and software in the summer of 2004
• General Sewing Data (GSD) network
• Sewing and garment production machines
Colour Measurement
For colour difference, shade sorting and dye recipe prediction:
• Hunterlab colorimeter
• ICS MM 8000 system
• SCOT colour system
Chemical & Materials Analysis
• Gas chromatographs
• Thermal analysis equipment
o Thermal gravimetric analyser (Mettler TG 50)
o Thermal mechanical analyser (Mettler TMA 40)
• Differential scanning calorimeter (Mettler DSC 30)
• HPLCs - high performance liquid chromatographs
• Fluorescence spectrometer (Perkin Elmer LS3)
• UV/Vis. spectrometers (Perkin Elmer Lambda 2, Pye/Unicam SP8-200)
• Freeze drier
Computer Aided Design (CAD) Lab
Computer Aided Design Lab
Mimaki Tx2-1600 digital fabric printer
The CAD Lab benefitted from an investment of £30,000 in 2002, providing new high
specification PCs and an A1 width digital printer (Epson Stylus Pro 7600). Undergraduate
and research students in fashion and textile design, digital imaging and visual studies use
the facility. There are textile-specific software packages available, which are at the cutting
edge of digital weaving and printing.
The School purchased a digital fabric printer (Mimaki Tx2-1600) in the summer of 2004.
This facility will enable our students to print directly on to fabric in-house; they will
therefore gain experience in creating their finished textiles by using both traditional screen
printing and cutting edge digital printing techniques.
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E-mail and telephone contacts
Telephone +44 (0) 1896 89 + Ext No.
Campus Reception
Extension No.
2133
Gordon Allan
G.Allan@hw.ac.uk
2166
Manzoor Arain
M.Arain@hw.ac.uk
2261
Jane Askey
J.Askey@hw.ac.uk
2158
Margot Baird
M.R.Baird@hw.ac.uk
2234
Rob Burton
R.Burton@hw.ac.uk
2240
Sheila-Mary Carruthers
S.M.Carruthers@hw.ac.uk
2193
Robert Christie
R.M.Christie@hw.ac.uk
2199
Marnie Collins
M.Collins@hw.ac.uk
2159
Alex Fotheringham
A.F.Fotheringham@hw.ac.uk
2245
Fan Han
F.Han@hw.ac.uk
2265
Anita Hill
Anita.Hill@hw.ac.uk
2136
Lesley Lindsay
L.A.Lindsay@hw.ac.uk
2130
Britta Kalkreuter
B.Kalkreuter@hw.ac.uk
2159
Sharon Lam Po Tang
S.Lam_Po_Tang@hw.ac.uk
2277
Hua Lin
H.Lin@hw.ac.uk
2275
Liang Luo
L.Luo@hw.ac.uk
2269
Lisa Macintyre
L.M.Macintyre@hw.ac.uk
2234
Robert Mather
R.R.Mather@hw.ac.uk
2235
Iain McDonald
I.McDonald@hw.ac.uk
2246
Ian McInnes
I.M.McInnes@hw.ac.uk
2233
Keith Morgan
K.M.Morgan@hw.ac.uk
2238
Fiona Pankhurst
F.M.Pankhurst@hw.ac.uk
2158
Mark Parker
M.W.Parker@hw.ac.uk
2240
Gayle Poddubecki
G.Poddubecki@hw.ac.uk
2267
Judith Scott
Judith.Scott@hw.ac.uk
2124
Hazel Sharp
H.Sharp@hw.ac.uk
2243
Jayne Smith
J.Smith_2@hw.ac.uk
2147
George Stylios
G.Stylios@hw.ac.uk
2135
Sarah Taylor
S.E.Taylor@hw.ac.uk
2148
Mark Timmins
M.Timmins@hw.ac.uk
2193
Fiona Waldron
F.S.Waldron@hw.ac.uk
2146
Ruth Walker
R.F.Walker@hw.ac.uk
2176
Michael Wan
Taoyu.Wan@hw.ac.uk
2266
Roger Wardman
R.H.Wardman@hw.ac.uk
2140
Theresa Wilkinson
T.M.Wilkinson@hw.ac.uk
2243
general enquiries
enquiries@tex.hw.ac.uk
School of Textiles and Design
Scottish Borders Campus, Heriot-Watt University, Nether Road, Galashiels, TD1 3HF
if you have any comments about our Research Profile, send an email to enquiries@tex.hw.ac.uk
53