2 0 0 2 ANNUAL REPORT ROLANDO GARIBOTTI Letter from the President and Executive Director Since 1990, the Access Fund has been the country's only organization dedicated solely to preserving climbing access and conserving the climbing environment. We have grown to over 15,000 members and affiliates and gained support of most of the climbing industry through our corporate partnership program. We continue to grow and work with community partners and associated local climber organizations to advocate on behalf of the almost one million active climbers in the United States. We have spent millions of dollars on land acquisitions, local conservation projects, and support for grassroots activism. Also, we have dedicated significant funding to climber education and representation in the public policy arena. In 2002, the Access Fund awarded over $120,000 in Climbing Preservation Grants, monies that helped establish local climbing organizations in Illinois, Pennsylvania, Texas, Arizona, and other areas across the USA and to acquire land, build or repair trail systems, provide necessary signage, and assist other grassroots initiatives. We received an "Excellence Award" from the Alaskan Region of the National Park Service for our support of the Denali Clean Mountain Can program. We allocated our largest ever-single grant to Utah Open Lands (UTOL) to assist with the Castleton Tower purchase, and we continue to work with UTOL to formulate management guidelines and plans for the future use of this resource. The Red River Gorge's Daniel Boone National Forest and the City of Boulder Colorado also recognized the Access Fund with awards in 2002 for our continued efforts regarding stewardship and management of climbing resources on public lands. The Access Fund collaborated with local climbing organizations to preserve or restore access in areas including Pinnacle Peak, AZ and Boat Rock, GA. Former Board member and AF Regional Coordinator, Paul Diefenderfer, was instrumental in the Pinnacle Peak project, and the Southeastern Climbers' Coalition lead the way to purchase land at Boat Rock. We created an Indian Creek Information Guide in cooperation with the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), The Nature Conservancy, and Rocky Mountain Field Institute. This unique publication was designed to educate climbers about upcoming BLM planning initiatives in the Indian Creek corridor and to communicate how to care for this precious resource Our National policy efforts included working with cultural resource consultants regarding solutions to allow climbing while protecting archeological/historical values. In addition, we continued to work on the fixed anchor in wilderness debate. 2002 was a successful and productive year for the AF due to growing support from climbers throughout the country. Challenges remain, but we will continue to advocate on behalf of our members, partners and the plethora of active climbers nationwide. We look forward to enhancing our grassroots program in order to support climbers around the country working to keep their climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment for future generations. Together with a focused mission, longterm commitment to self-regulation, and local activism, we are prepared to continue and address future climbing issues. Dave Rosenstein, President Dave Rosenstein 2 Steve Matous Steve Matous, Executive Director 2002 Access Fund Board President - Dave Rosenstein, NJ Vice President - Mark Kroese, WA Secretary - Andy Carson, WY Treasurer - Leslie Brown, WA Chris McNamara, CA John Myers, NY Dan Nordstrom, WA Kurt Smith, TX Shannon Stuart Smith, KY Jeff Widen, CO Board of Directors Honorary Board Members Lance Brock, TN Mary Cablk, NV Tommy Caldwell, CO Ken Cline, CO Keith Cole, Washington, DC Malcolm Daly, CO Andy Fitz, WA Jeff Holt, NJ Pat Jodice, SC Gene Kistler, WV Sam Lightner, Jr.,WY Marte Lightstone, NM Bob Margulis, WA Michael Kennedy, CO Armando Menocal, WY Bill Supple, VT 2002 Access Fund Staff Steve Matous & Sam Davidson - Executive Director Heather Clark - Development Director Shawn Tierney - Access & Acquisitions Director Jason Keith - Policy Director John Heisel - Publications Director Kerry Cowan - Membership Director Kate Cavicchio - Event Coordinator Cindy Trotter & Aimee Baker - Office Manager Access Fund Board and Staff 2002 Source of Funds Grants 6% Other 4% In-kind contributions 16 % Corporate 15 % Individual, Foundation and Organization Support 59% Use of Funds National Policy, Acquisitions & Special Programs 38 % Fundraising and Administrative 13% These are unaudited figures. For additional financial information, contact the Access Fund’s Executive Director at 303-545-6772 (ext. 101). Newsletter 9% Climber Outreach, Advocacy & Communication 40 % 3 The Access Fund’s mission is to keep climbing areas open and to conserve the climbing environment. Below is a list of actions in 2002 that supported our mission. • Worked towards a obtaining favorable climbing policy for the use, Public Policy replacement and installation of fixed anchors in Wilderness. • Made a presentation regarding fixed anchors in Wilderness to high ranking officials at the Arthur Carhart Wilderness Training Center. • Lobbied Congress to limit the unfair and arbitrary application of recreation fees. • Worked with human-powered recreation organizations to urge Congress to support increased funding levels for federal public land agencies regarding land management and recreation/resource protection. • Worked with cultural resource consultants to find positive solutions to protect archaeological and historical values at numerous climbing areas. • Met with the BLM in Monticello, Utah to discuss interim management strategies pending the production and implementation of a recreation management plan for the Indian Creek corridor. • Wrote letters and initiated an action alert to oppose a proposed 8,400 home subdivision adjacent to the Red Rocks National Conservation Area. • Hired lobbying firm in Washington, DC to work on recreation fees and funding, natural resource-recreation conflicts, and fixed anchors in Wilderness. • Lobbied Congress in an effort to expedite the opening of Castle Rock Ranch State Park near City of Rocks, ID. • Began developing a “Climbers for Political Action” event to be held in Washington, DC that will improve the connections between climbers and government, and galvanize climber activism in support of legislation and regulatory initiatives that benefit climbing in the United States. • Met with land managers with the Park Service and Forest Service in Washington state in a proactive effort to address climbing related management issues before problems arise. • Met with federal land management agencies in Washington, DC to discuss entering into memoranda of understanding that would develop a cooperative working relationship between the agencies and the AF for mutually beneficial programs and projects. • Submitted comments to Congress on the proposed Sacred Lands Act. • Began negotiations with the Navajo Nation regarding opening up limited portions of Monument Valley Tribal Park to permitted climbing. 2002 Activity Report Areas Where Access Was • Asheboro Boulders, NC. Provided a grant to the Carolina Climbers Coalition that was used to reopen this privately Restored or Preserved owned bouldering area. • Boulder Canyon, CO. Working with the city of Boulder to preserve ice climbing opportunities in Boulder Canyon. • Bridalveil Falls, CO. Working with local climbers to restore access to this historic ice climb. • Castle Valley, UT. Provided financial and administrative support to Utah Open Lands and the Castle Rock Collaboration to preserve a climbing campground and access to Castleton Tower. • Cave Rock, NV. Wrote letters and initiated an action alert to oppose a discriminatory closure of Lake Tahoe’s premier sport climbing crag. • Flatirons, CO. Working to prevent unreasonable closures to climbing and bouldering areas in the Flatirons currently being developed under a management plan. • Horsepens 40, AL. Traveled to Alabama and met with locals seeking a solution that will ensure climbing access at HP 40. • Hueco Tanks, TX. Continued to offer support to Hueco Tanks. • Hyalite Canyon, MT. Working with local climbers to preserve access to ice climbing in the canyon. • New River Gorge, WV. Negotiated with the NPS regarding their proposed closure of The Endless Wall to provide speculative habitat for migrant peregrine falcons. • Oak Creek Scenic Overlook, AZ. Working to lift a climbing ban at the scenic vista. • Sprague River, OR. Opposed a discriminatory and arbitrary closure of Sprague River Picnic Area to climbing, and an ill-advised citation of a local climber charged for “illegal” bolting. Conservation Program • Listing of 2002 wildlife closures on Access Fund website and in membership newsletter; regular updating of this information on Access Fund website through the spring raptor-nesting season. • Awarded a $2,100 grant to support research on human disturbance and the guidelines 4 used in managing raptor closures. This research will aid in limiting arbitrary closures. • Obed Wild and Scenic River, TN. Awarded a research grant to the National Park Service. Research will be conducted by the Univ. of TN on the use, demographics and economic impact of climbing at the Obed. • Dedicated $18,000 and carried out trail projects at Quartz Mountain, OK; Little Si and Frenchman Coulee, WA; Quartz Mountain, OK; Enchanted Tower and El Rito, NM. • Provided a $5,500 grant to Denali National Park for the “Clean Mountain Can” program. Portable “cans” will be used to reduce human waste impacts and eliminate the need for high altitude toilets on Denali. • Provided $12,000 in grants for trail and impact mitigation projects at Indian Creek, UT; Cathedral Ledge, NH; Flatirons, CO; and Quincy Quarries, MA. • Human waste management projects received $4,000 to support toilet installation or maintenance at Jacks Canyon, AZ, North Table Mountain, CO, and the Happy Boulders, CA. • Provided a $1,500 grant to support the formation of Support for Grassroots the Pennsylvania Alliance of Climbers. The group is dediAdvocacy Climber/Education cated to working on statewide access issues. Provided a $1,000 grant to the grassroots climber advocacy group, the Minnesota Climbers Association. The group will represent climbers in the region and provide a forum for communication between government officials and climbers. • Produced and distributed an interim educational brochure for recreational users of the Indian Creek corridor pending planned BLM management initiatives. This educational/informational brochure was supported through partnerships with the BLM, Black Diamond, Petzl, The Nature Conservancy, and the Rocky Mountain Field Institute. • Produced educational posters, provided grant funding for acquisitions and completed stewardship projects as part of our nationwide “Bouldering Campaign” to preserve access and natural resources at America’s diverse bouldering areas. • Provided a $1,000 grant to the Pisgah Climbers Association for an information kiosk at Looking Glass, NC. • Provided a $1,500 grant to assist in the formation of the Tucson Climbers Association. The group will represent climbers in the region by working on southern Arizona access issues. • Published a “Hueco Tanks Survivor’s Guide” designed to assist boulderers in negotiating Hueco’s complicated tangle of restrictions and reservations requirements. • Provided a $2,000 grant to support the formation of the Climber’s of Hueco Tanks. The group will focus on climber education and stewardship projects at Hueco. • Provided a $500 grant for an informational kiosk at McConnells Mill, PA. • • Castleton Tower, UT. Provided ongoing support along with a $20,000 grant to Utah Open Lands for the acquisition of land adjacent to Castleton Tower. Acquisition will protect access to the Tower and preserve the historic climbers campground. • Boat Rock, GA. Provided a $10,000 grant to the Southeastern Climbers Coalition to support their acquisition of the Boat Rock boulders near Atlanta. Acquisition of this historic area prevented the land from being sold to developers. • Parley’s Canyon, UT. Provided a $1,500 grant to the Trust for Public Land to support the acquisition of key parking and trailhead climbing access parcel. • Quartz Mountain, OK. Exercised an option on property adjacent to climbing area that completed this two-year acquisition effort. Land Acquisitions The Access Fund recognizes everyone who contributed to the success of the 3rd Annual Adopt-a-Crag Day. In 2002, the Access Fund supported 86 Adopt-a-Crag Day events in 34 states, and one event in British Columbia. Climbers gathered at their favorite crags and boulders for trail construction, litter clean-ups, and visual impact mitigation. Adopt-a-Crag Day is a national commitment by the climbing community to natural resource stewardship and volunteerism, and would not be possible without the generous support of its sponsors. Title Sponsor Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI), Presenting Sponsor W.L. Gore, and Supporting Sponsor CLIF Bar provided key financial backing, allowing the Access Fund to provide each Adopt-a-Crag Day event with volunteer incentives and clean-up materials, and to present three awards for exemplary events. Adopt-A-Crag Day 5 2002 Corporate Partners DIAMOND—$20,000+ Black Diamond Equipment/Bibler-Scarpa Climbing Galyan's REI Rock & Ice PLATINUM—$10,000+ Nike ACG Petzl/Charlet Moser prAna The North Face GOLD PLUS—$7,500+ CLIF Bar W.L. Gore GOLD—$5,000+ Campmor Climb High/Mammut La Sportiva Maxim Ropes Nalgene Omega Pacific Mountaineering Patagonia Trango USA & Stonewear Designs Weathered Stone SILVER—$2,500+ BlueWater Boreal Boulder Rock Club Corplan EMS FalconGuides Gregory Mountain Products Kelty Metolius Misty Mountain Threadworks New Belgium Brewing Co. Outpost Wildermess Adventure Sterling Rope Touchstone Climbing Inc. Lowe Alpine Systems Marmot Mercer Capital Group Mountain Gear Mountain Hardwear Outdoor Research Phoenix Rock Gym PMI PuR Redpoint, Inc. Shoreline Mountain Products Torrent Falls Bed & Breakfast The AF Memorial Foundation was founded in 1998 to honor individuals who cared about the mountain environment. The following memorials were established in 2002. Michael A. Daniel Blair Halley Ryan J. Hartley Kristopher James Darryl Miner Scott Sandberg Marc Springer Dawn Alguard Yates Gear CONTRIBUTING -$500+ Monthly Contributors Advanced Base Camp Alpine Ascents International Bearing Images ClimbingBoulder.com Cloudveil Mountain Works Excalibur DMM/Wild Country/Red Chili USA Flannel Design Go-Lite Gravity Kills Company Jagged Edge Mountain Gear Joshua Tree Rock Climbing School Montrail Mountain Madness Mountain Tools Mountaineers Books Nicros Philadelphia Rock Gym Phoenix Bouldering Comp Royal Robbins Seattle Manufacturing Corporation Sickle Climbing Soma Entertainment Stone Age Climbing T.K. Michael, D.D.S., P.S. TirelessTrekker.com Travel Country Outdoors VooDoo Holds MEDIA PARTNERS Blue MAJOR—$1,000+ Memorials Blue Ridge Outdoors American Bouldering Magazine Series Camp4.com Arc'teryx ClimbXMedia.com Cascade Designs/ Ousley Creative Therm-a-Rest Outside Magazine Crazy Creek Products TexasClimbers.com Pusher/Cordless/S7 6 Vbouldering Carl Miler & Molly Beard Booker Bense David Benson Laurie Berliner Van Brinkerhoff Christopher Burgett Sarah Hull & Craig Burzynski E. J. Carfora Peter Carrick Greg Carter Matt Culberson James Davis Mark Deem Satyabodhi Densmore Paul Diefenderfer Eric Distad Thomas Donalek Brian Donovan Tim Dougherty Jennifer Dow Jeff Drumm Bill Drury Mike Mitchell & Diane Edgar Jason Edwards Brian Elliott Tonya Emerson Mike & Lori Endres Lars Ensign Jim Farris Judith Faulhaber Steve Ferry Tim & Susi Fickling Randy Franklin Frank Galey James Garrett Russell Gerbman Lindsay Gill Rodney Graham Christopher Greyell Phil & Becky Gruber Bernard Guest John Gulius Rebecca Hage Arthur & Janet Haines Harold Hall Lawrence Hamilton Harry G. Hampton, Jr. Ryan Held Jeanette Helfrich Ross Hickman Jason Hindson Bert Honea Matt & Aimee Hoyt Paul Imbierowicz Paul Jakus Creeden Jones Bob & Bonnie Kamps Christopher Kantarjiev Garrett Kemper Michael Kennedy Kevin Kleinhelter Patricia Kline Vic Klotz Jerry Kripal David & Sally Larimer Sharon Liu Kastle Lund Sharon Ramirez & Mark Lutterman Steve Mays Chris McNamara Armando Menocal Wendy Jenkin & Stewart Middlemiss Robert & Barb Moody Bill Morse Scott Nelson Mark Nelson Ben Nevin Scott Nydam Bret Nye Rain Perry Kathy Phillips Steve Pokorny Thomas Reid Robert Ross John Ross Steve & Cindy Rowe Peggy Sayer Alyssa & Barry Schmidt Dave Schuller Kirk Shibata Tony Shouse Brian Shubat Robert Skelding Steve & Aimee Starsja Peter Steadman Jerome Stiller Luke Stollings Jimmy Stout Carrie Sundra Thomas Thrall Alfred Torrisi Shawna Vacca Stephen Grant Walker Bob & Jane Watson David Wells Don Wendland The AF received grants from the following foundations Grants and corporations in 2002. Ansara Family Foundation Apple Foundation Baird Charitable Fund Boulder Community Foundation Stanley Family Fund Fox Family Foundation Jerry Vogel Foundation Knox Family Foundation The Lightner Sams Foundation of Wyoming, Inc. Loewenstern Foundation New Belgium Brewing Co. Parmelee Foundation, Inc. Patagonia Peter C. Jackson Fund Preston Family Donor Advised Fund Recreational Equipment, Inc. Richard and Joan Ringoen Family Foundation Washington Women’s Foundation LIMESTONE $2,499-$1,000 Samuel Adams Drew Allan David Apple Rob Berry Jim Boyd Kenneth Colville Dan Crouse Timothy Forbes Jim Gilchrist Larry Gustafson Robert & Ellen Hostetler Bob & Bonnie Kamps Michael Kennedy Kimberly Knox Colin & Kathleen Lantz Kyle & Cindy Lefkoff Marte Lightstone Jim Mattson, Jr Craig McKibben John Preston Scofield Auctions, Inc. John & Kirsten Sharp George Shaw David Smith Susan Sosin Georgie Stanley, II Todd & Donette Swain Ken Wagers Christopher Walker Doug Walker Bruce Pech & Wendy Weiss Edmund Grainger, III Becky Hall Lisa Martin & Eric Hennings Joseph Hettinger Duncan Highsmith Sandra Tanen & Ron Hirschberg Jessica Holzer Bert Honea Susan Hopkins David Hutchinson Loren Jahn Chris Jones John Lee Chris Blackmon & Dougald MacDonald Sandy Mailliard Mikko Mannisto Armando Menocal Cynthia Meyerhoff Fred Mitchell Burton & Julia Moomaw Allan Nadel Lori Nixon Gary Pate Allen Peery Conrad Piper-Ruth Michael Plante Phyllis Ponte Keith Rampmeier George H. & Elizabeth Regan-Lowe Nicholas Rhind Thomas Riihimaki David Rosenstein Wade & Jackie Aramany-Roth Elan Schultz Jill & Richard Sideman Monty Access Smith Paul Smith W. Robert Smith Allen Steck Roger Taylor Daniel Horwich & Cynthia Tyler Dirk & Nancy Tyler Brian & Wendy Underhill Terry Vest Chris Wegener Mark Weiser Nancy Zahmiser QUARTZITE $999-$500 Conrad Anker James Ansara Mia Axon Dina Boon & Jim Bennett Bill Berkley John Brastad Steven Butensky Clarence Cantebury Andrew Carson Paul Certa Colorado Mountain School Daren Connor Dominic De Vincenzo Michael Dimitri Maria Enrione James Frank Jeff Frank Paul Gagner James Garrett SANDSTONE $499-$250 Rick Accomazzo Oz, Susy, & Mike Alkaitis Charles Anderson John Anderson Emmy Andrews Appalachian Mountain Guides, Inc Jason Applestein Larry Arthur Dave Atkinson Jon Banks Adrienne Jarrett & Dale Bard Dennis Barry Kathleen Beamer David Benson Dan Bereck Laurie Berliner Kreighton Bieger Bruce Bindner 2002 Summit Club ABOVE THE CLOUDS $10,000+ Anne Watson & Tom Isaacson Jon Krakauer Sam Lightner, Jr GRANITE $9,999-$2,500 Paul Diefenderfer Charlotte Fox & Reese Martin Andrew Gresh Alan & Cheryl Higham Mark Kroese Roger Linfield Lisa Foss & Robert Price Vernon Scarborough Erik Weihenmayer Jim Bodenhamer Dave Brandt Patrick Brennan Gerald Calbaum Randy Carmichael Stephen Caulk Mark Clancy Michael Clifford Kenneth Cline Eric Coblin Steven Cochran Amy Colburn Stan Cole Arthur Cormier David Coward Peter Coward John Cox Robert Craig Ernesto Cruz Emery Dameron D. Kirk Davidson Scott Davis Steve Davis Kathy Dicroce Brown Richard Dietz Ed Diffendal Don Mason & Laura Domoto Kirk Donaldson Cheryl Duckworth Tom Duke Sandy & Gale Dunlap Robert Durham James Edwards Lisa & Phil Ensign Nicolas Falacci Rui Ferreira Keith Fleischman Anders Fridberg Paul Gagner Frank Galey Donna Garoutte Kenny Gasch Clark Gerhardt, Jr. David Goeddel Mr. & Mrs. W. King Grant Phil & Becky Gruber Robert Hall Rick Hanheide Eric Haszakiewicz Nicola Hill Margaret Judith Hillenbrand Greg Iafeliece Peter Jackson Paul Jakus John Jinishian Tim Jorgensen Mary James Kavanaugh Anna Kessler Pete King James Kotrba, IV Al Koury John Kretchmer Robert Lang Wendy Langston Jim LaRue Wayne Lashley Randy Leavitt Peter Pryde & Suzanne Lee Wayne Lentz Ann Lyons Eugene Dammel & Walt & Suzy Wilkinson Carole Ludlum J. Patrick Luke Brent Manning Patreese Martin Steve Matous Thomas & Sarah Matthews Kent McCormick Gary McElvany James McNally Colin McNease Doug Miller Matt Miller Philip Mindlin Bob & Cindy Monnet Daniel Moore Bernard Moret Wally Naylor Andrew Newman Victor Nippert Dan Nordstrom Evi Nott David Osborn Bryan O'Sullivan Tejal, Kevin & Deven ParikhCarmichael Thomas Patterson Janet Peterson Bill Povolny Martha Dickie & James Rader Russ & Holly Raffa Robert Raker Alfred Riddle David Rikert Greg Rogers Thomas Rosenberg Tushar Sharma & Nagaja Sanatkumar Peggy Sayer Eric Schlegel Laura Schmonsees Jerry & Anne Seydel Audrey Sheridan Elizabeth Sholes Jay & Andrea Shotwell Tony Shouse Amy Simper John Sirois Marc Sisko Ray Snead Daniel Snyder Ken Stauffer Barry Sullivan William Sweasy Kent, Laura, & Cassandra Taylor Donald Thomas Joy Thomas James Tucker, III Jutta lrich Bruce Valentine, DDS, APC Mark Veteto Kevin Wagner Michael Walenta William, Victoria &Mojo Walseth Bert Young Mark Zaleski 7 • Fort Lewis College Guides Climbing Club • Bison Willy’s Bunkhouse • Gainesville Rock Gym • Blue Star Camps • Georgia University • CU Outdoor Program Outdoor Recreation • Erehwon Mountain • Granite Arch Climbing Outfitter Center • Friends of Joshua Tree • High and Wild Mountain • Martinez Construction Guides • MTU Ridge Roamers • Hamilton College • Peak Experiences • Kent Mountain • Pennsylvania Alliance of Adventure Center, Inc. Climbers • Memphis Mountaineers • Rock'n & Jam'n • Mountain Chalet • Rok Haus Indoor • Mountain Dreams Climbing Gym • International MTU Ridge Mountaineering • Ute Mountaineer • Vail Rock & Ice Guides, LLC. Community Friends $100 - $249 • ACC ROCX • Action Committee for Eldorado • Alpine Club of Canada • Alpine Shop, Ltd. • Animas City Rock • Avery Brewing Company • Aztec Rec Center • Blue Star Camps • Boulder Mountaineering School • Boulders Climbing Gym • Call of the Wild • Camp High Rocks • NEICE.COM • North Summit Climbing Gym • Prairie Walls, Inc. • Red River Gorge Climbers Coal. • Redpoint Production, Inc. • Rim of the World Climbing Club • Rockhard, Inc. • Rock Solid Climbing Services • Skinny Skis • Southern California Mountaineers Association • Southern Oregon Climbing Club • Starved Rock Outfitters • Stone Age Climbing Gym, Inc. • Stone Age Gym • Stonehenge Sunrift • Carolina Adventures • Adventures Talus • CASBC Climbing Service • Cascade Crags Indoor • The Bag and Pack Shop Climbing • The Mountaineers Library • Chicago Mountaineering • University of Club Pennsylvania Outing Club • Cleveland Rock Gym • Upper Limits • Climbers Alliance of Mid- • Vertical Access Western Missouri State Recreation Program • CLIMBX • Wilderness Exchange • Colgate University • • Outdoor Education Unlimited Program • Wilson's Eastside Sports • Desiderata Institute • X-TREME Rock Climbing Address Service Requested • Summit Canyon Roamers Boulder, CO 80308 Mountaineers The Access Fund, PO Box 17010 • Stone GardensSpokane PAID • Exum Mountain Guides • Appalachian Mountain DENVER, CO Pittsburgh • AMC - NY Chapter ORG • Explorer's Club of • Ace Adventure Center U.S. POSTAGE • Dover Indoor Climbing Gym $250 - $499 NON-PROFIT 2002 Community Partners Community Leaders Wilderness Exchange Center 2002 Annual Report