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AN ESSAY ON OLD MARKET STREET
SCENES AND PLACES FAMILIAR IN THE LONG AGO
PORTRAYED BY MISS PHELPS OF THE GRADUATING CLASS.
From the Parkersburg Dispatch News
June 19, 1909
The following; essay, .read by Miss Mary Phelps, at the High School commencement, will be
read with interest by Parkersburgers generally.
"Befo de wah" some enterprising natives of Virginia, along with some Ohioans, settled in the
village of Newport, a little south of the Little Kanawha river. This settlement increased in size
and importance, and changing its name to Parkersburg, drifted its population and business to this
side of the Little Kanawha. The streets were then laid out on the same plan as they are now; but
the hills, valleys, creeks, and frog-ponds
were more numerous than now. As the importance of these streets increased, they were given
names. Among these were the Juliana and Ann of today, and Neal, Court, Harriet, Littleton,
Washington and Pike, strange names, perhaps, to most, but corresponding respectively to
Second, Third, Fourth, Fifth, Sixth and Seventh streets. This last was called Pike because it was
once the end of the Northwestern Pike. Former Parkersburgers often ask about Old Pike street,
and .are surprised to hear, 'O, you mean Seventh street! You mustn’t call it Pike now, that's out
of date."
And so the streets have changed in name, and all in appearance. Also many more streets and
alleys were laid out as Parkersburg began o grow from village to town, from town to city.
Indeed, if we might see the Parkersburg of our fathers, then, and only then, could we realize how
changed the city is to those who carry with them the memories of the Parkersburg they knew.
Among these many vicissitudes, Market street seems to have suffered the most. Indeed, no other
street or section of the city has undergone such a gradual and complete transformation.
Let, us now take a. look at it through grand father's spectacles. We see a brown, sandy, unpaved
thoroughfare from the Kanawha to St. Mary's Pike, which is, now Thirteenth street. On the dry
days of summer its fine dust would fill the eyes and nostrils of the pedestrians. In winter and .in
early spring, when winter is breaking, it was quite similar to Dudley Road as it was in the wet
seasons two years ago.
But the main features of this thoroughfare were the cattle, swine and ether pesky, stray, domestic
animals which roamed the street and fed upon the grass and weeds growing along the roadside.
When the farmers came in from the neighboring country with produce to the Market Place, their
right of way would be questioned by impudent, squealing little piggies with shoebutton eyes, and
by mournful eyed cows.
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The bridge across the Kanawha at the foot of Market street was an attractive place, where, in the
coolness of a June morning, one could look up the Kanawha "to taste whose water is to insure
your return," sooner or later; to old Parkersburg or, or over into the wooded heights of Fort
Boreman and on the pleasant valleys and humble dwellings nearby: then, back to the thriving
little village of Parkersburg; or, sweetest of all to nature lovers, down the Ohio, a blue ribbon
stretching toward the west and finally lost to sight amidst its own border of green foliage. But
sad to tell, this pleasant rustic bridge must be torn down commercial reasons.
As Parkersburg grew to a town and its boundaries stretched up the Kanawha, business increased.
- Farm products must be brought down in boats. But the builders of this bridge, not foreseeing
the growth of their town, bad built no approach, consequently it was too low for the larger boats
now needed to pass under it in safety. A new and higher bridge must be built. But while they
were discussing this question a flood came and carried the old bridge away, definitely settling the
question. Market street lost entirely its connection with the old town of Newport.
Perhaps it would he of interest to look through the memory spectacles, even though they be
foggy, at the business houses and dwellings on Market street. What is that large store there on
the corner of Neal street? Shoes, flour, candy, etc., are arranged in different places. Ah. I see it is
a general store owned by Mr. William Burke, whom, his neighbors familiarly call Bill. Farther
up, on the corner of Court street, is the West Virginia hotel, proudly bearing the name of the new
state. This was the best hostlry in town and had a board walk in front of it, extending a short
distance on either side. It was five or six feet above the street.
Now, let me take a, long look at Court Square. How changed it is! It had even then the
distinction, of a brick sidewalk. A little to the front of the square was the Court House. On each
side was a small building. John Murdoch, the county clerk, had his office in one, and Hardin
Neal, the ciruit clerk, had his office in the other. T'hese three buildings were enclosed by a chain
fence. Behind was the Market House. This was a very important place, literally the "town hall"
of Parkersburg. It consisted of a. long shed with several stalls. I can still retrace some of the
name; of the first business men, W. J. Kirby, W. R. Neal, W. H. Neal, truck gardeners, Fred
Betsall, Sam Stone, Bill Maddox, butchers. And back of the Market House stood the county jail,
a rough log building, not a very strong fortress. Perhaps some will recall this little story. A
prisoner dug his way out of the jail and escaped. The sheriff berated the jailor for allowing the
prisoner to escape. "Well, what could I do?" cried the jailor. "You fool, replied the sheriff, ''Why
didn't you lie in the hole and bark." Verily our fathers and grandfathers were not always so staid,
sober and devoid of nonsense as now they would have us think them to be. Let me look again
through the glasses. On one corner of Court street is a store kept by John and Charlie Tavenner;
on another is Sam Burch's hardware store; and next to it is Ed Phelps' large general store: But I
see some beautiful residences and shops, the names and characters of which I cannot distinguish.
Directing my glance further up the street, I see Mr. McMillan's saddlery. And near it is a, large
store where calico, gingham, muslin, bleached and unbleached, and' all kinds of wearing apparel
is sold. O yes, now I know. This is the "Biggest Drygoods Store in the City," of which, Mr.
Timothy Adams was owner, manager, floor-walker, book-keeper, and head clerk. I also see
another sign hanging out: “Logan's Wholesale and Retail Shoe Store." But for every four persons
who enter, one comes out with shoes and three with boots. In vain I search the shelves and
windows for a trace of pumps. But on the side of the street I discovered a butcher shop, kept by
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a jovial German named Schutaur, or something like that, who went the way of all his victims,
and was himself slaughtered by a stronger hand.
I see many shaky and unsafe buildings, some of which were used as dwelling houses and some
of which were occupied by milliners, cobblers, etc., including a "picture man," where the village
lads and lassies might have their pictures taken, when the young man bad sufficient money.
And we must not forget the tannery nor blacksmith shop. This latter was in a double log
house. The smith and his family lived in one and the shop was in the other. The tannery was
owned by Messrs. Chancellor and Logan. Other business establishments on this part of the street
were Mr. William Berry's hats, Mr. Salterbach's grocery, and Mrs. Boehler's saloon. All these
building, with several other frame houses, seemed rather low.
Now, from Littleton, Market street sloped gently upward, traversing the side of a hill, which
faced the Ohio. On the eastern side the hill rose above the street and on the western side it
descended below it, so that on the corner of Washington street the back of a house was nearly a
story below the street. But from here the road is cut through, and the hill rises on either side, till
at Pike street the M. E. Church, South, stood twenty feet or more above the street, and the
worshippers had to climb a flight of stone stairs. There are not many buildings on these two
squares, some scattered residences, a few business houses, as the drug store of James Amiss, and
the office, of Dr. Scott. The Catholic Church, and rectory were a short distance below
Washington on the east.
From Pike street almost to Eighth was a fine beech grove. The beautiful pointed leaved trees
surrounded and almost hid from view the fine old house, in which lived Mr. Daniel R. Neal, one
of the largest land owners in Parkersburg. The following anecdote is told o£ him. A farmer .had
come to town, become intoxicated and stopped his four horse team, diagonally across the road
in front of Mr. Neal's place, to take a snooze, When a young boy from the country started home
he could not get his team past this obstruction. Mr. Neal saw his plight, came out to the road,
jumped into the wagon of the drunkard, seized the whip, and gave the horse a cut, waking up the
farmer, making room for the boy to pass. This illustrates his kindness to timid lads and his
willingness to "lend a. hand.''
From Pike street, the hill gradually sloped down to Ninth, where it reached the level with Market
street, which, with the exception of the little rises and depressions common to all country roads,
was, in the main, level; throughout its extent. It terminated at St Mary's Pike, where there was a
large forest, a few trees of which still remain between De Sales Heights and Avery street.
Above Eighth street were a few occasional houses; but most of the country was laid out in farms.
Three farms especially worthy of mention were those owned by the Cook brothers Harden, Till
and Bonnet. This end of the street, with its forest approached by the corn and wheat fields made
a beautiful pastoral scene.
Such, indeed, was the Market street; of our grandparents -- Market street. But ah, shat changes
have taken place! Some, alas, for the worse, as the increased number of saloons, but most of
them for the better. The dusty street has been paved. The third court house, a modern building,
now stands on f! I site of those chainfenced building the West Virginia, Hotel has become the
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United Woolen Mills factory. The street and lots have been graded, till the ascent of Market
street is barely perceptible. Where once was the hollow with, "the house a story below the
street," is the Greek American. And on the location of the old M. E. Church, South, stands the
Chancellor Hotel. Mr. Neal's beautiful home place has been converted into the Camden Block.
The wheatfields are locations for dwellings and flats. And the forest at the end of the old street
has been cleared and Upper Market street, with its beautiful homes, extends to the top of the hill.
There is a feeling of sadness, no doubt, in the hearts of the people who see the old landmarks
vanish. However, only a very few who walked up and down Old Market street when it was
young are live. Only a few of the younger generation cherish the memory of "ye olden days" and
landmarks. Hence we gladly welcome the Market Street of the present, and we shall cherish, it in
our memories when we grow old.
MARY PHELPS, ‘09
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