THE FLAVOURS AND ESSENCE OF PAKISTANI FOOD A cuisine in its own right, food writer Sumayya Jamil explores Pakistan's rich culinary history. ESPITE BEING RELATIVELY young, Pakistan’s culinary past is steeped in history. Boasting one of the oldest known civilizations in the world, the Indus Valley Civilization in Pakistan is noted for the rich vein of cultural influences that courses through its cuisine. Throughout history, its geographical position meant Pakistan was vulnerable to invasion. However, invaders into India tended to lose their gusto as they stalled on the plains of Sumayya Jamil Sumayya is a Pakistani food writer, cookery teacher and Supperclub host in London. She was born and brought up in Pakistan and recently left the legal profession in London to follow her passion for food. She is on a mission to spread the love of Pakistani cuisine and to give it an identity of its own. WWW.BRITISHCURRYCLUB.CO.UK the River Ganges, meaning that the strong influence of their cuisines were felt most in the area that now forms modern-day Pakistan. Influences from Central Asian, Turkish, Persian and Arab cuisine all left their mark on the previously bland food. A little later, the food was injected with an array of vibrant spices imported from neighbouring India, creating a rich, creamy, spicy fusion of Pakistan’s many influences. These dishes then developed into Mughlai food, and were eaten by the Persian emperors that ruled India for hundreds of years. In the late 1940s after the partition of India there was mass migration. Pakistan was now bustling with a huge Muslim population that had migrated from across India, bringing with them their various culinary traditions. This added to an already rich and diverse plethora of Pakistani foods. Amidst this were Tindhi’s with their vibrant, ancient culture, Balouchi’s, Punjabi’s, and the people in the north of Pakistan, who are greatly influenced by Persian and Afghani food. In addition to this the food of the minority communities also had an impact, and as a result Pakistani food has developed into an authentically different cuisine - a melting pot of cross-cultural and border food traditions. In the UK, Pakistani food is almost always considered the same as Indian. Pakistani food is different in its heritage, aroma, methods of cooking, taste and the way we use spices and ingredients. Unlike India our food is meat heavy and we love to barbeque. We use simple vegetables and no meal is complete without both rice and bread. Pakistani food is alive with intoxicating aromas and a warmth of spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, star anise, mace with browned onions, tomatoes and yoghurt, and lots of fresh herbs, ginger and garlic. These are of course cooked in a uniquely Pakistani way. This involves either cooking under ‘dum’, a process of slow cooking on a low heat, or perhaps ‘bhuno’, which involves gently stir-frying over a period of time to release the aromatic aromas. All this adds a distinct flavour that defines Pakistani food. In Pakistan, cooking is a celebration of each ingredient, and creating each dish with passion, knowing what every individual spice brings to your final dish is key. To Pakistani’s food is everything and if you give us something to eat, you win our hearts forever! Over the page are some recipes I grew up eating in Pakistan, mostly passed down from my mother and grandmother. Some however, are just ones that remind me of home and happy times. Enjoy! < 47