Slide 1 CHAPTER
___________________________________ TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
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___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 2 ___________________________________ The French Court continued as center of fashion during the
reigns of Louis XV and XVI.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 3 ___________________________________ Keeping up with fashion
was important, especially
for British dandies called
Macaroni's, whose styles
were subject to Italian
influences.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 4 ___________________________________ Settlement in the British colonies in the New World continued. Colonists
in British lands in American grew restive under British rule and by the
latter part of the century they revolted and declared their independence,
establishing the United States of America.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 5 Trade with the Far East
brought Asian textiles to
Europe, providing
luxurious silks and printed
cottons for fashionable
garments.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 6 ___________________________________ In Europe and America the Industrial Revolution made possible the production
of a wide range of domestic textiles.
X
Arkwright’s Spinning
Machine
___________________________________ Click to See
___________________________________ Hargreaves Spinning Jenny
___________________________________ 6
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 7 ___________________________________ Fashion changes for men in the 18th Century were not extreme.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1750 - 1800
1700 - 1750
7
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 8 Toward the beginning of the
century, men wore white
shirts with a ruffled frill at
the front under vests that
were sleeved or sleeveless.
The vest was only a little
shorter than the outer coat,
which had become wider.
Coat cuffs were wide.
Breeches reached to the knee.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1700 - 1750
8
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 9 Throughout the century,
coats for formal wear
were lavishly
embroidered or made of
luxurious silks.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Visit the Metropolitan Museum of Art to see more embroidered waistcoats
9
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 10 If the coat, vest, and
breeches were made of
the same fabric, the suit
was know as a ditto
suit.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Visit the Metropolitan Museum of Art to see another “Ditto Suit”
10
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 11 ___________________________________ For less formal occasions, a frock coat, which was a more casual coat with a
flat, turned down collar and a looser fit, might be worn.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 12 ___________________________________ By the second half of the century, vests had grown shorter, breeches were more
closely fitted, and the jacket had narrowed and curved back, away from the
front below the waistline.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ Before 1750
12
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
___________________________________ After 1750
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 13 ___________________________________ Both frock coats and
more formal coats
continued to be worn.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 14 ___________________________________ Loose colorful dressing gowns called banyans
were worn at home and also on the street.
When relaxing, men might take off their wigs
and wear an embroidered nightcap.
XX
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 15 ___________________________________ Important accessories for men included pocketbooks, three-cornered hats,
wigs, and shoes with gold buckles.
___________________________________ Three-Cornered Hat
Pocketbook
___________________________________ ___________________________________ Wigs
Shoes with Gold Buckles
15
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 16 ___________________________________ For women, previous century styles continue until c. 1720
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 17 ___________________________________ In this century, as in the 16th, hoops become important as wide
skirts were worn throughout the century.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ The wide skirts of the
dress are supported by a
frame called paniers.
17
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
___________________________________ © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 18 ___________________________________ Typical undergarments of the 18th Century were a chemise, over which was
placed a stay (the contemporary term for a corset) an under petticoat, and a
hoop.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 19 ___________________________________ Styles changed several times:
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1715 - 1730
1730 - 1760
1760 - 1790
19
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 20 ___________________________________ Wide, unfitted gowns were characteristic of the first part of the century.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1715 - 1730
20
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 21 ___________________________________ Fitted gowns were also worn, as were loose hip-length tops and skirts.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Click on image to rotate garment 360°
21
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 22 ___________________________________ Hair styles were relatively simple.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 23 ___________________________________ Skirts became less round and were wider from side to side. Gowns fitted in the
back were called à l’Anglaise and those with full unfitted pleats at the shoulder
back and fitted fronts were know as robes à la Française.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ à l’Anglaise
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
à la Française
Click on images to toggle views
23
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 24 ___________________________________ Gowns generally had square necklines. Many had a “v” shaped insert at the
front, that was called a stomacher, was often highly ornamented with
embroidery, lace, and ribbon. Full skirts were generally slit in front and worn
over a petticoat of matching or contrasting fabric.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 25 ___________________________________ Hair dressing grew higher. A folding hood-like hat, called calash, was needed
to cover the hair outdoors.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 26 ___________________________________ Except for formal dress where it still appeared, the exceptionally wide robe à la
Française was replaced by a dress with skirts held out by a pad, and skirts were
looped up in puffs to form “polonaise.”
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1760 - 1790
26
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 27 ___________________________________ Hairstyles grew to enormous size around the 1770’s. Cartoonists enjoyed
lampooning these fashions.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 28 ___________________________________ Expensive soft cotton muslins from India were made into a dress cut similarly
to a chemise.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 29 ___________________________________ Fullness in the skirt gradually shifted to the back and the bodice front took on a
puffed appearance as soft scarves were tucked into necklines.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 30 ___________________________________ Working class women, slaves and the poor wore petticoats with
straight, unfitted, washable tops called shortgowns.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 31 ___________________________________ With the wide skirts, the most practical outdoor garment was a cape.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 32 ___________________________________ Notable Accessories for women of the 1700s included some practical items.
•
•
•
•
Tie pockets worn under the skirt
for carrying items
Parasols to keep off the sun
Shoes with matching clogs to raise
women’s feet off the muddy
ground
Fans to keep cool
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 33 ___________________________________ Philosophers suggested practical, comfortable clothing for children
were better for their health and development.
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CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 34 ___________________________________ For Further Study
Actual Costumes Of This Period
http://www.kipar.org/baroque-costumes/extant-costumes.html
http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/nbg/index.shtml
http://www.brooksmuseum.org/public/exhibitions/default.asp?id=10000170
http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/narrative.php?irn=80&QueryPage=index.
php&themeback=1
http://www.metmuseum.org/special/Dangerous_Liaisons/fashion_images.htm
http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tseighteenth/1700-1799.html
___________________________________ Art Of The 18th Century Depicting Costume
http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/index.shtml
http://mauritia.de/en/rococo/rococo_costumes.html
http://www.costumes.org/classes/fashiondress/18thCent.htm
http://witcombe.sbc.edu/ARTH18thcentury.html
___________________________________ Specific Items Of Costume
http://www.lecurieux.com/eca1.htm
http://www.spnea.org/NEHM/NEWWSpringPage04.htm
http://www.northampton.gov.uk/museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_Sh
oes/18th_Century.htm
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/BANYAN.HTM
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
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CHAP TER TEN
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 35 ___________________________________ For Further Study
African American Clothing
http://www.history.org/history/clothing/intro/aa_cover.cfm
Additional Information About Costume Of This Period
http://www.history.org/history/clothing/intro/clothing.cfm
___________________________________ Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing
Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama
Book Specialists.
Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ 35
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 36 ___________________________________ Image Credits
Image of British Macaroni, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection.
Image of Calico Printer, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection.
Image of Men at a Table, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection, Joshua Reynolds Portrait.
Photo of Panier, used courtesy of [ www.farthingales.on.ca ].
___________________________________ Various images used courtesy of [ www.trousseau.net ].
Various images used courtesy of [ www.vintagetextile.com ].
Image of Woman in Calash used courtesy of the New York Digital Image Collection.
Images of British Cartoons used courtesy of the New York Digital Image Collection.
Image of Woman in Cloak used courtesy of the New York Digital Image Collection.
Image of 18th Century Pocket used courtesy of [ www.historywired.si.edu ].
Various images used courtesy of [ www.manchestergalleries.org ].
Various images used courtesy of Dover Publications.
___________________________________ Various images in this chapter are courtesy of [www.clipart.com]; [ www.photos.com ];
Fairchild Publications, Inc.; and Fairchild Library.
___________________________________ 36
CHAP TER TEN
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1700 - 1800
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
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