Slide 1 CHAPTER ___________________________________ TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Check for updates on the web now! Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 2 ___________________________________ The French Court continued as center of fashion during the reigns of Louis XV and XVI. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 2 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 3 ___________________________________ Keeping up with fashion was important, especially for British dandies called Macaroni's, whose styles were subject to Italian influences. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 3 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 4 ___________________________________ Settlement in the British colonies in the New World continued. Colonists in British lands in American grew restive under British rule and by the latter part of the century they revolted and declared their independence, establishing the United States of America. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 4 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 5 Trade with the Far East brought Asian textiles to Europe, providing luxurious silks and printed cottons for fashionable garments. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 5 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 6 ___________________________________ In Europe and America the Industrial Revolution made possible the production of a wide range of domestic textiles. X Arkwright’s Spinning Machine ___________________________________ Click to See ___________________________________ Hargreaves Spinning Jenny ___________________________________ 6 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 7 ___________________________________ Fashion changes for men in the 18th Century were not extreme. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1750 - 1800 1700 - 1750 7 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 8 Toward the beginning of the century, men wore white shirts with a ruffled frill at the front under vests that were sleeved or sleeveless. The vest was only a little shorter than the outer coat, which had become wider. Coat cuffs were wide. Breeches reached to the knee. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1700 - 1750 8 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 9 Throughout the century, coats for formal wear were lavishly embroidered or made of luxurious silks. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Visit the Metropolitan Museum of Art to see more embroidered waistcoats 9 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 10 If the coat, vest, and breeches were made of the same fabric, the suit was know as a ditto suit. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Visit the Metropolitan Museum of Art to see another “Ditto Suit” 10 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 11 ___________________________________ For less formal occasions, a frock coat, which was a more casual coat with a flat, turned down collar and a looser fit, might be worn. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 11 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 12 ___________________________________ By the second half of the century, vests had grown shorter, breeches were more closely fitted, and the jacket had narrowed and curved back, away from the front below the waistline. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Before 1750 12 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 ___________________________________ After 1750 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 13 ___________________________________ Both frock coats and more formal coats continued to be worn. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 13 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 14 ___________________________________ Loose colorful dressing gowns called banyans were worn at home and also on the street. When relaxing, men might take off their wigs and wear an embroidered nightcap. XX ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 14 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 15 ___________________________________ Important accessories for men included pocketbooks, three-cornered hats, wigs, and shoes with gold buckles. ___________________________________ Three-Cornered Hat Pocketbook ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Wigs Shoes with Gold Buckles 15 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 16 ___________________________________ For women, previous century styles continue until c. 1720 ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 16 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 17 ___________________________________ In this century, as in the 16th, hoops become important as wide skirts were worn throughout the century. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ The wide skirts of the dress are supported by a frame called paniers. 17 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 ___________________________________ © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 18 ___________________________________ Typical undergarments of the 18th Century were a chemise, over which was placed a stay (the contemporary term for a corset) an under petticoat, and a hoop. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 18 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 19 ___________________________________ Styles changed several times: ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1715 - 1730 1730 - 1760 1760 - 1790 19 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 20 ___________________________________ Wide, unfitted gowns were characteristic of the first part of the century. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1715 - 1730 20 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 21 ___________________________________ Fitted gowns were also worn, as were loose hip-length tops and skirts. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Click on image to rotate garment 360° 21 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 22 ___________________________________ Hair styles were relatively simple. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 22 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 23 ___________________________________ Skirts became less round and were wider from side to side. Gowns fitted in the back were called à l’Anglaise and those with full unfitted pleats at the shoulder back and fitted fronts were know as robes à la Française. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ à l’Anglaise CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 à la Française Click on images to toggle views 23 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 24 ___________________________________ Gowns generally had square necklines. Many had a “v” shaped insert at the front, that was called a stomacher, was often highly ornamented with embroidery, lace, and ribbon. Full skirts were generally slit in front and worn over a petticoat of matching or contrasting fabric. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 24 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 25 ___________________________________ Hair dressing grew higher. A folding hood-like hat, called calash, was needed to cover the hair outdoors. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 25 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 26 ___________________________________ Except for formal dress where it still appeared, the exceptionally wide robe à la Française was replaced by a dress with skirts held out by a pad, and skirts were looped up in puffs to form “polonaise.” ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1760 - 1790 26 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 27 ___________________________________ Hairstyles grew to enormous size around the 1770’s. Cartoonists enjoyed lampooning these fashions. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 27 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 28 ___________________________________ Expensive soft cotton muslins from India were made into a dress cut similarly to a chemise. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 28 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 29 ___________________________________ Fullness in the skirt gradually shifted to the back and the bodice front took on a puffed appearance as soft scarves were tucked into necklines. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 29 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 30 ___________________________________ Working class women, slaves and the poor wore petticoats with straight, unfitted, washable tops called shortgowns. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 30 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 31 ___________________________________ With the wide skirts, the most practical outdoor garment was a cape. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 31 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 32 ___________________________________ Notable Accessories for women of the 1700s included some practical items. • • • • Tie pockets worn under the skirt for carrying items Parasols to keep off the sun Shoes with matching clogs to raise women’s feet off the muddy ground Fans to keep cool ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 32 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 33 ___________________________________ Philosophers suggested practical, comfortable clothing for children were better for their health and development. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 33 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 34 ___________________________________ For Further Study Actual Costumes Of This Period http://www.kipar.org/baroque-costumes/extant-costumes.html http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/nbg/index.shtml http://www.brooksmuseum.org/public/exhibitions/default.asp?id=10000170 http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/narrative.php?irn=80&QueryPage=index. php&themeback=1 http://www.metmuseum.org/special/Dangerous_Liaisons/fashion_images.htm http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tseighteenth/1700-1799.html ___________________________________ Art Of The 18th Century Depicting Costume http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/index.shtml http://mauritia.de/en/rococo/rococo_costumes.html http://www.costumes.org/classes/fashiondress/18thCent.htm http://witcombe.sbc.edu/ARTH18thcentury.html ___________________________________ Specific Items Of Costume http://www.lecurieux.com/eca1.htm http://www.spnea.org/NEHM/NEWWSpringPage04.htm http://www.northampton.gov.uk/museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_Sh oes/18th_Century.htm http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/BANYAN.HTM THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 ___________________________________ 34 CHAP TER TEN © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 35 ___________________________________ For Further Study African American Clothing http://www.history.org/history/clothing/intro/aa_cover.cfm Additional Information About Costume Of This Period http://www.history.org/history/clothing/intro/clothing.cfm ___________________________________ Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists. Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 35 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 36 ___________________________________ Image Credits Image of British Macaroni, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection. Image of Calico Printer, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection. Image of Men at a Table, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection, Joshua Reynolds Portrait. Photo of Panier, used courtesy of [ www.farthingales.on.ca ]. ___________________________________ Various images used courtesy of [ www.trousseau.net ]. Various images used courtesy of [ www.vintagetextile.com ]. Image of Woman in Calash used courtesy of the New York Digital Image Collection. Images of British Cartoons used courtesy of the New York Digital Image Collection. Image of Woman in Cloak used courtesy of the New York Digital Image Collection. Image of 18th Century Pocket used courtesy of [ www.historywired.si.edu ]. Various images used courtesy of [ www.manchestergalleries.org ]. Various images used courtesy of Dover Publications. ___________________________________ Various images in this chapter are courtesy of [www.clipart.com]; [ www.photos.com ]; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; and Fairchild Library. ___________________________________ 36 CHAP TER TEN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY c. 1700 - 1800 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________