Slide 1 ___________________________________ CHAPTER
___________________________________ NINE
THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
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___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 2 ___________________________________ The royal courts of
European monarchs
provided a stage for the
display of the latest
fashions.
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 3 ___________________________________ In England, religious reformers called Puritans avoided ostentatious
fashions. The Royalists, supporters of the King, wore lavish clothing.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Puritans
Royalists
3
CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 4 Spanish costume
traditions deviated from
major fashions trends, as
upper class Spanish
women retained wide
farthingale-like skirts
called guardinfante.
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 5 ___________________________________ Initially, wide-bottom styles of the previous century persisted.
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 6 ___________________________________ For men, the new styles began about 1625 and three distinctive styles
can be identified.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1625 – 1650
1650 – 1680
6
CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
1680 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 7 ___________________________________ Major elements of upper class costume consisted of a shirt of white linen.
The ruff had become a flat lace-trimmed collar called a falling band.
X
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1625 – 1650
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 8 ___________________________________ Over the shirt, men wore a jacket with an extended skirt
below the waistline.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1625 – 1650
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 9 ___________________________________ Knee-length breeches replaced trunk hose.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1625 – 1650
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 10 ___________________________________ Typically men wore their hair long and curling, either their own hair or
wigs. Hats had wide brims and were decorated with plumes. Boots had
"slap soles" and shoes were decorated with rosettes.
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 11 ___________________________________ As styles evolved, men’s white linen shirts were worn with a flat collar or
cravat at center front, a jacket ending above the waistline, and full breeches,
(some of which looked like a skirt, hence the name petticoat breeches).
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1650 – 1680
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 12 ___________________________________ Garments were often elaborately trimmed with ribbons and
occasionally had ruffles, called canons, at the knees."
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1650 – 1680
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 13 ___________________________________ About 1666 King Charles II of England made a great show of adopting,
a garment called a “vest.” Simpler than petticoat breeches, it was kneelength and covered the breeches, and it probably influenced
subsequent styles.
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 14 ___________________________________ In the last decades of the century, men’s styles included white shirts
worn with long cravats, sleeved vests (also called waistcoats, extending
to the knees), and outer coats with full skirts that covered the vest.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1680 - 1700
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 15 ___________________________________ Among the accessories for men were long cravats, jack boots, and wigs
that grew ever larger.
___________________________________ X
Wigs
Cravats
___________________________________ ___________________________________ Jack Boots
15
CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
Click to Zoom
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 16 ___________________________________ As for women’s styles, the old styles continued into the new
century. A new style was not established until c.1630.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1630
1600
CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
16
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 17 ___________________________________ Three style phases for women were those of:
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1630 - 1660
1660 - 1680
1680 - 1700
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 18 ___________________________________ A softer silhouette with a slightly elevated waist replaced the wide
farthingale. A wide lace collar edged the usually low neckline. Full
paned sleeves that showed the white linen chemise sleeve, were called
virago sleeves.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1630 - 1660
18
CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 19 ___________________________________ Underneath the outer skirt were at least two layers of petticoats.
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 20 ___________________________________ Bodices lengthened and narrowed, shaped into a long “v” at the front.
Skirts were either open, showing a contrasting petticoat, or closed.
Necklines were often horizontal.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1660 - 1680
CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
20
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 21 ___________________________________ Styles evolved gradually, with relatively minor changes in the lines of
gowns. Necklines tended to be square, ribbons decorated insets for the
fronts of bodices, called stomacher and sleeves ended below the elbow.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1680 - 1700
CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
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___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 22 ___________________________________ Skirts were long, usually split at the front to display a decorative
petticoat, then looped up and draped over the hip, ending in a long train.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1680 - 1700
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 23 ___________________________________ An elaborate headdress, called a fontange in France and a commode in
England, was worn with this garment.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1680 - 1700
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 24 ___________________________________ Among the notable accessories for women in the 17th Century were:
___________________________________ Fans
Copotains
___________________________________ ___________________________________ Pantofles or Mules
Slap Sole Shoes
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
Mask and Hood
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 25 ___________________________________ Throughout the century both men and women usually wore capes outdoors.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ 1625
1692
1642
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 26 ___________________________________ Children were dressed as small adults, as is the girl on the right. The
boy on the left, will wear skirts until he is about six years of age.
Attached to the back of his shoulders are “ribbons of childhood,”
thought to be a mark of status for upper class children.
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 27 ___________________________________ For Further Study
Art Of The 17th Century Depicting Costume
http://womenshistory.about.com/library/pic/hollar/blhollar1.htm
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/17THMEN.HTM
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/17thwomen.htm
http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/EBAROQUE.HTML
http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/psearch?Request=A&Person=13900
___________________________________ Costume For The Theater
http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/british_galls/audio_talk_art/jennyt_costume/8527_a
udio.html
Actual Costumes Of This Period
http://www.kipar.org/baroque-costumes/extant-costumes.html
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/09/euwb/ho_1991.6.1a,b.htm
___________________________________ Specific Items Of Costume
http://www.kipar.org/baroque-costumes/costumes_fontanges.html
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/17THSHOE.HTM
http://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_Sh
oes/17th_Century.htm
CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 28 ___________________________________ For Further Study
Native American Dress
http://web.ccsd.k12.wy.us/Social%20Studies/05/0101nacostum.html
Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing
Hill, M. H. and P.A. Bucknell. 1987. The Evolution of Fashion: Pattern and Cut from 1066 to
1930. New York: Drama Publishers.
Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books.
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ Slide 29 ___________________________________ Image Credits
Image of Lace Collar, used courtesy of www.costumes.org, July 13, 2005.
Images of various boots, used courtesy of www.costumes.org, July 13, 2005, photos are found in the book, “Kostumkunde,” or A History of
Costume, English edition, 1928.
Image of a Woman in Copotain, Woman in Mask 1, & Woman in Mask 2, received courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection.
Images of Pantofles, used courtesy of Kim and Mauritia Kirchner.
___________________________________ Image of 17th Century Children, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Images Collection.
Images of woman in masks and copotain, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Images Collection.
Various images in this chapter are courtesy of [www.clipart.com]; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; and Fairchild Library.
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CHAP TER NINE
THE SEVENTHEENTH CENTURY
c. 1600 - 1700
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
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