Supplemento al N. 8 / 2015 di Export Magazine - Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena
SPECIAL
REPORT
ON
THE
MIDDLE
EAST
FRAGRANCE
MARKET
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2
3
EM_sommario MIDDLE EAST_000_BD8_07_Mastro 15/10/15 07:53 Pagina 4
Advertisers’ index
6-8
10-11
12-13
14-15
16-17
24-25
INTERVIEW
Ajmal Perfumes: A. Ajmal
Arabian Oud: I. Ezzat
Hilal Perfumes: M. Hilal
Paris Gallery: M. A. Rahim Al Fahim
Clarins: O. Rinno
Expressions Parfumées: T. Fleurichamp
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22-23
27
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LAUNCH
Ferragamo - Tuscan Soul
Thierry Mugler Alien Oud Majestueux
Versace
Amouroud by Perfumer’s Workshop
Parfums Pergolèse Paris
On the cover:
Ajmal, a vast portfolio of the finest
and most captivating fragrances
SUPPLEMENTO AL N. 8 ANNO XXXV
OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2015
OTTOBRE / NOVEMBRE 2015 BIMONTHLY
DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE
GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO
Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano
n. 85 del 16/02/1991
Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45%
art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane
Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa
Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena
Printing:
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Art Director
Teresa Tibaldi
Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl
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Tel. 02/48.95.23.05
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Managing Editor
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Editor-in-chief
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E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it
Consultants
Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Roberto Cimarosa Rebecca Lazzari - Daniela Patané Joan Rundo - Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn
P.R. Promotion
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Email: jepub@att.net
ARTISTIC PERFUMERY
20
26
30
LAUNCH
Alysonoldoini
Histoires De Parfums
Moresque Parfum
Cover
2-3
31
29
IV
9
Ajmal Perfumes
Arabian Oud
Beautyworld Middle East
Parfums Pergolèse Paris
Paris Gallery
Fragrance Foundation Arabia
MIDDLE EAST: A MARKET IN EVOLUTION
ditoria
The Middle East has always been extremely important for the fragrance market.
Most of the large multinational companies, which for years have been present in what is
known as the MENA region, have an office in Dubai, chosen for its strategic position in the
Gulf and to be considered a trendsetter and a showcase for the neighbouring countries.
However, consumption concerning fragrance is not limited to the big brands,
even though they represent a large slice of the pie; there are brands which have
the Middle East as their first market and, above all, the local brands,
commonly defined “Arabic oriental”, are increasingly to the fore.
They are fragrances which draw on Arabic culture and traditions,
they are persistent and enveloping, their packaging is precious and refined
and they come in boxes of great value, ready to be offered as gifts
on special occasions and on religious festivals, or simply for personal gratification.
They are sold directly in the boutiques of the individual brands,
or in the prestigious chains of perfumeries.
The magic of these perfumes passes through the word “Oud”,
on which whole volumes could be written.
We will limit ourselves to recalling its sillage, the signature that underlines
the appeal and mystery expressed by these small pieces of burnt wood.
Alongside oud, there are amber and jasmine, rose, iris and musk
and many other precious raw materials.
A third universe has joined these two worlds of Western
and Middle Eastern fragrances: “artistic perfumery”.
In just a few years, it has occupied an important space on the shelves,
more often then not in an area dedicated to this category.
They are made for particular consumers, more interested in the fragrance than in the
brand, and above all who want to wear something that is unique and absolutely precious.
Names of various origin converge here, some of which have reached such large turnovers, in
the Middle East and in the whole world, as to have become appetizing for some large groups.
The recent acquisitions of some brands of reference are evidence of this.
In order not to miss new opportunities, some important brands have also launched
their own “private collections” and we cannot forget “Middle Eastern perfumery”
which has always been specialized in offering unique and exclusive fragrances.
The perfumery market, in the Middle East but also in the rest of the world, is wondering….
Nothing is as defined as in the past any more, the local brands are looking
beyond their borders, they have discovered that their fragrances
are also appreciated by an international clientele.
The international brands are developing ad hoc fragrances where the “Oud”
theme dominates, even though it is interpreted in a different way.
We are seeing a real melting pot, both at the level of the offer and the consumers.
In all this, the essence houses are not just watching...
new opportunities are appearing for them as well.
And Dubai is the ideal window to study ideas for the GCC area and also
for countries further afield, India, Iran and Pakistan, to mention only a few.
The challenge is on, and it could be positive for everyone,
the geopolitical situation permitting!
5
AJMAL
PERFUMES
Arabic perfumery premium
player, now crafting
memories internationally
Interview with Abdulla Ajmal
General Manager - Sales & Marketing
EXPORT MAGAZINE: The world
of fragrances has changed a lot.
Fashion and renowned brands
are still being chosen by
customers, therefore another
trend is coming up, focusing
on what are known as
“artistic fragrances”.
How do you perceive
the market according to
today’s consumers’ attitudes?
ABDULLA AJMAL: In all aspects,
I think the trend is changing
dramatically: the brands with their
huge marketing expenses, used to
dominate but this is now changing.
That’s why in the past five years we
have seen a huge emergence
of niche brands, although there
is not only niche, there are also
the fashion brands that have their
own selective collection, etc.
First of all, consumers are tired of
“the same over and over again”,
secondly, thanks to the Internet,
more and more people know
what’s going on in the world.
6
That’s why niche products are
emerging, people want quality,
perfumes that have not
been discovered before.
The latest figures report that
in the world of global fragrances
20% is now occupied by niche.
Everybody is looking for niche,
proof of this is that 10/15 years
ago we would never have been
available in the kind of retail shops
where we are today, primarily
because the niche arena is growing
and people are asking for fragrances
that are not the usual ones.
They want super luxury, uber luxury!
There is an increasing demand
for this kind of product
and more and more people
are enjoying luxury.
Luxury in a way has become very
common, concerning fragrances.
Then the big multinational
companies have started buying up
the most successful niche brands.
At Ajmal, our products include a
hyper luxury line called “Eternal”:
we consider it to be niche
because it’s really selective,
produced in limited
numbers and available
in a restricted number of doors.
It’s not only the product itself
that allows this definition,
but the whole process, from the
craftsmanship of the project – our
bottles are handcrafted in pure
crystal with 24 carat gold plating -
to the story behind it, a true story
that people love, to the kind
of fragrance juice, Our company
can reach this edge because
of our heritage and our many
years of experience.
Our craftsmanship creates
true masterpieces.
Talking about oud, now there’s
“oud mania”, but when it
comes to oud, few brands can
compete with us. We have built up
the product and the knowledge…
the fact that we have patents of
artificial inoculation of oud
and we have plantations of over
a million trees of our own
in North Eastern India, which
is where the best quality is.
We have done a lot of research
on oud, and today we have
patents in some countries on the
artificial inoculation of oud.
We can prove the sustainability
of the commodity.
Once again, knowledge
is uber luxury.
EM: The Middle East has always
been a market leader regarding
perfume consumption.
Do you think that today
is important to follow
it more carefully in order
to answer the specific needs
of each single country?
AA: Everywhere, segmentation is
increasing in the world of perfumery.
It’s true that Middle Eastern
people understand fragrances very
well and they use them, creating
a very high consumption.
Even though the populations
are very small in these countries,
a large proportion of inspiration
comes from them.
More and more large and middle
brands are launching fragrances to
meet the taste of the Middle East.
In the short term, this is a good
game, in the long term, there’s
good knowledge to be learnt.
Arab consumers give a lot of insight
about the culture of fragrance
and more and more international
consumers now accept
the harshness,
the strength and the complexity
of oud-based fragrances.
The Middle East is providing
a lot of information,
influence, and know-how.
There is far less resistance to
innovation. The”oriental trend”
will only grow, and international
brands have to pay attention to this
region, which is the only region that
is actually growing: I specially refer
to Saudi Arabia where there is a
constant growth, this year of 20%.
Regarding international fragrances
that have been created for our
markets, I would say that only
very few are doing rather well,
also thanks to the intense
advertising campaigns.
AJMAL PERFUMES
Ajmal, in its over 64 year history of creating fragrances,
has mastered the art of perfume-making and occupies
a unique niche in the world of perfumery in the Middle East.
Today, Ajmal is a regional corporate entity with a vast portfolio of
the finest and most captivating fragrances available in the region.
Ajmal has established a strong retail presence with
over 158 retail outlets across the GCC.
Ajmal also exports to over 30 countries across the globe.
They may have affected our local
brands in the short term, what is
certain is that in the long term
they are opening up the world
of oriental fragrances for us.
In a way, these brands have opened
up the exposure for international
clientele to other things....
Our expansion has perhaps been
faster because of the influence and
acceptance of the “oriental trend”,
whoever created it.
The Arab consumer wants
a blend of oud.
We have now been challenged to
make oud more international, which
was not possible before since there
were not so many takers available.
Now that we have so many perfumers
working on so many interesting
variations of oud, it’s possible
to get much more inspiration.
Oud is the symbol of Arab knowledge.
At Ajmal, in the category of
oud sprays, we have been a
market leader for 12 years now
with “Shams”; then we wanted
something more sophisticated
and we launched a new oud called
Arzan, which is doing really well.
Regarding our consumer profile,
luckily we have confirmed our
strategy of relying on a stable clientele,
made up of local people and expats.
EM: In which countries does your
company develop its business?
Will you be considering other
areas in the future as well?
AA: We have more than 158 stores
in GCC. Saudi Arabia is our no.1
market, followed by the U.A.E.
In Saudi we are registering an
aggressive expansion: from 50
existing stores our plan is to add
10/15 stores every year.
As for our expansion to other
markets, we are doing well in Iran,
which has an enormous
purchasing capacity and a great
appetite for consumption.
We are expanding very fast
in India, our “big ticket”
for the next five years.
A good part of the younger
generations now has more
disposable income and
they have started getting into
the world of higher toiletries
and grooming products.
As Ajmal, we have our own
counters and have created a
specific range for this country,
priced in the mid-segment.
We are growing fast in Pakistan,
becoming a strong brand.
In Thailand we have just
signed a second store and
we are looking for a third one.
We are investing in those areas
where we can be successful
with the retail format,
where we have the expertise.
We prefer to deal directly with our
consumers, without intermediaries.
We are in the CIS countries,
and we are particularly successful
in Kazakhstan, Armenia,
Azerbaijan and we also
have a good presence
in Turkey and Egypt.
Inshallah... next year we hope
to be available in Europe,
with some very interesting
Developments.
7
On one hand, we are investing with
a partner to have a retail presence in
some countries, on the other hand
we’ll be entering some alliances
to get strategic distribution.
Our future plans also concern
Latin America and America,
where we’ve already got
good business partners.
EM: What about olfactory trends?
Are fragrances created in the
Middle East for local consumers
also suitable for European
and overseas customers? AA: Ajmal wishes for sure
to go internationally,
without forgetting our
heritage and our roots.
We have brought in four different
experts, all with long and
distinguished careers in design,
to create our image and
packaging, so that we can address
international consumers while
retaining our authenticity.
We create fragrances for
both Arabic consumers
and Western consumers.
Our first objective is always to
retain the best quality; we give
large budgets to the perfumers
we work with, so our products
are expensive to us and expensive
to consumers, but they get
excellent quality.
EM: What about your presence
in the duty free channel?
AA: In the recent past,
travel retail business was
never a profitable business.
However, 2014 and 2015 have
been quite good to the extent
that at the moment we are
30% over last year.
I believe that it will become
profitable and, in any case,
it represents a very good exposure
on the international front,
and a great opportunity
to get a new clientele.
8
This is why we are putting more
beauty advisors at the counters,
to give the maximum
information on our products.
The existing accounts and
the new ones are doing well:
Dubai Duty Free,
Abu Dhabi Duty Free,
Cyprus Duty Free, Tourvest
Inflight Retail, Oman Air
and some budget airlines.
We have been introducing some
travel retail exclusives,
both in single units and packs.
Tax Free Cannes will be
the best moment to show them
to the duty-free operators.
We are currently producing
some limited editions,
like the one we did last year
for the 30th Anniversary of Dubai
Duty Free, where we produced
300 units of a special fragrance.
Again in 2014, for the National
Day of Dec. 2nd, we created
5 fragrances with the colour
of our flag, available
only for 45 days.
Hence our focus on
TR & Duty Free is to provide
bespoke offerings to the
travellers both for gifting
and personal use purposes.
C.S.
office@fragrancefoundationarabia.org
USA AUSTRALIA FRANCE
www.fragrancefoundationarabia.org
GERMANY
ITALY
JAPAN
RUSSIA UK
9
ARABIAN
OUD
a global retail success story
Ihab Ezzat, Overseas Business and projects
Development Manager of Arabian Oud,
talked to Export Magazine about the brand
that has over thirty years of experience
EXPORT MAGAZINE: The world
of fragrances has changed a lot.
Fashion and renowned brands
are still being chosen by
customers, therefore another
trend is coming up, focusing
on what are known as
“artistic fragrances”.
How do you perceive
the market according to
today’s consumers’ attitudes?
10
IHAB EZZAT: As the world of
fragrances has changed a lot, with
a new trend focusing on artistic
fragrances, our products present
the rich Arabian heritage and
present it in a modern way
that show a great success
and great consumer demand.
On the other hand we do offer
exclusive customized perfumes
as we study the clients’
requirements and specifically
identify the right ingredients,
then finalize a unique perfume
that is only produced for our
clients and are not reproduced.
Arabian Oud is actually creating a
new benchmark in Perfume trends
globally, as for a few years now
the trend is Oud and the
Middle Eastern taste in Fragrances
and as a market leader in the
region we clearly set the trends.
EM: Which countries are
developing fastest? IE: Saudi Arabia is expected
to benefit from a further
marked rise in tourist arrivals
during the forecast period,
with a CAGR of 13% in terms
of incoming tourist numbers.
The government is keen to
encourage growth in travel and
tourism, and will thus continue to
invest in infrastructure, aiming to
offer tourists an enjoyable stay.
As well, the Saudi Commission
for Tourism and Antiquities (SCTA)
is working to launch several
campaigns to encourage local
residents to invest in domestic
tourism through the wide
promotion of new developments
in the Kingdom such as the
Saudi rail project, infrastructure
upgrade and building of hundreds
of hotels and a major shopping
mall, which will also attract many
tourists seeking luxury shopping.
EM: The Middle East has always
been a market leader regarding
perfume consumption.
Do you think that today
is important to follow
it more carefully in order
to answer to the specific needs
of every single country? IE: As a Market Leader Arabian Oud
takes on the responsibility
of introducing the Brand globally.
According to Euro monitor,
Arabian Oud is the No 1 best-selling
perfume brand in the Middle East
and is rated No 11 worldwide.
And clearly, as an award
winner of the Fragrance
Foundation Arabia for the years
2010-2011, 2012-2013,
2014, Arabian Oud stamps
its signs of excellence worldwide.
Arabian Oud is looking for global
Partners to share its success
and global expansion plans.
Arabian Oud has more than
800 stores based in Riyadh,
Saudi Arabia, and the major cities
of the Middle East, (Dubai, Abu
Dhabi, Kuwait, Qatar, Oman,
Bahrain, Amman, Cairo, Sudan)
In Europe, we have a store on the
Champs Elysées in Paris and
in London in Oxford Street
and at Westfield Stratford.
Arabian Oud has reached
the top position locally
and globally as it is rated
No 1 Retail perfume of the
Middle East, holding 36% of the
value share of the market
and No 11 Worldwide
company in global premium
fragrances sales in 2012.
It won awards from the prestigious
Fragrance Foundation Arabia for
the years 2010-2011, 2012-2013,
2014. We also offer franchising and
export opportunities worldwide.
EM: What about olfactive trends?
Are fragrances created in the
Middle East for local consumers
also suitable for European
and overseas customers? IE: Arabian Oud defines traditional
Saudi fragrances for many
consumers, and is a clear
leader in fragrances
throughout the Gulf region.
The company accounted
for a 36% value share in 2014,
an increase of two percentage
points in value share over
the previous year.
Arabian Oud benefits from its
history and strong premium image.
It also benefits from diversification,
offering a widening range
of gender-specific and
Western-style fragrances,
whilst continuing to retain its
credibility within premium Arabic
fragrances and simultaneously
offering discount promotions to
allow all income levels
to experience its products.
C.S.
ARABIAN OUD
incense, natural oils,
finest blends and high
quality spray perfumes.
Arabian Oud, with its retail
chain of over 500 stores
worldwide, sells over
400 luxurious and
unique fragrances.
Its product portfolio
comprises Pure Oils of oud,
musk, amber and Taif rose,
Oil Blends, mixed with
oud oil, musk, amber
and floral essences and
fragrance sprays for men
and women in specially
designed bottles.
With a pledge to precision
and a commitment
to excellence,
Arabian Oud carries
out the mission of combining
heritage and originality
to create products
that go far beyond
expectations.
Arabian Oud is the
first Arab company
to be a member of
Fragrance Foundation UK
and is also the first
and only Arab company
to be registered
in the Michael Edwards
Fragrances World Book.
Its vision is to proudly
sell the finest products
that still embrace
its Arabic heritage.
It strives to reach excellence
in all its creations by selecting
the most expensive aromatic
raw materials in the world
and it aims to target
a broad scale of clients
whilst remaining firmly
attached to its Arabic roots.
11
HILAL
PERFUMES
the scent of Emirati experience
Interview with Mohamed Hilal,
Hilal Perfumes CEO
EXPORT MAGAZINE: What is
your philosophical approach,
regarding your business and,
as a consequence, your life?
MOHAMED HILAL: My philosophy
is that if you don’t enjoy what
you do, you will never get the
best from what you can do.
When I was younger,
I was looking for happiness;
I used to be a pilot for
our national airline, I liked to
fly but I didn’t like it as a job.
I tried different kind
of businesses to find joy,
including building,
and finally I decided to start
with perfumes. I just followed
my instinct; I remember I used
to carry a small bottle of perfume
in my pocket, and smell it.
I liked to smell good scents...
Perfumery wasn’t new to me, it’s
something in our Arabic culture.
12
Most Arab people,
myself included, and
I would say more than others,
we know how to listen
to the sensations coming
from a fragrance.
As I highlighted before,
joy is my first priority in choosing
a career, which represents what
I always say “I job my love.”
EM: The Middle East region has
always been a market leader
regarding perfume consumption.
Do you think that today
is important to follow
it more carefully in order
to answer to the specific needs
of each single country?
MH: From the very beginning
of our activity, our concept was
emotional; I was telling the true
story that I lived, creating a bond
between the brand and those to
whom we “wish well-being”,
as we don’t like to call them
simply consumers.
Business is an important part of
my life and I wanted it to be real,
to create products expressing
relationships, emotion, interaction.
Our philosophy is clearly
to find joy with real things;
our clients are well educated,
and they want us to give
them our reality, and they
will love it and decide
to live their own dreams...
I went into the world of fragrances,
and also of fashion, food and
other activities at a later time,
because I’m convinced that my
mission is to represent our culture.
Through our business, we have a
responsibility, to fill a gap that
exists between our country which
has one of the best infrastructures
in the world, and the lifestyle
of the population.
After we satisfy our country’s
responsibility, fully emotionally
charged, it becomes our
further responsibility to give
something to the world and
to our international clientele.
We want to convey to our
customers, no matter where they
are from, our good values;
if we love these values,
we’ll always love our customers,
and they will do the same.
“Milas” is a slang word that we
pronounce when we receive a guest
at home...and we give him the
best we have, the best piece of
oud, the best food, music, and
everything to make him happy.
Similarly, a brand should always
find more and beyond what
consumers emotionally need;
they are the artists that interpret
our humble creations.
Our objective is very human,
caring, ethical, and at the
end of the day no matter how
much money you make, what is
important is when you can rely
on a team around you that shares
the pleasure of always giving
the market something better.
EM: What about olfactory trends?
Are fragrances created in the
Middle East for local consumers
also suitable for European
and overseas customers?
And, on the other hand,
what do you think of the
fact that the most important
brands are launching
fragrances influenced by
Middle East taste, selling them
not only in the Middle East,
but in the West as well?
MH: Olfactory sensations and
scents are related to perception.
A scent is a language that
everybody understands.
The language that I selected to
communicate without words to
express our culture, our emotions,
is a very common language.
The challenge to me is to find
scents that seem not to be
accepted by international
consumers and use the right
information, the right emotion,
to make it acceptable, to change
their aversion into love.
Do you agree with me that
hate and love have a similar
intensity with different aspects?
Let’s take “oud” for example:
you can accept this smell
or not, depending on how
it is presented to you.
I have met many people
who say they hated it,
and then, after a few months,
they started to like it, and
use it on some social occasions,
where they received enthusiastic
comments about the
fragrance they were wearing.
I strongly believe that trends are
created when leaders are clear
about their vision and their ability
to change people’s perception.
Communication is important,
it takes time and the right
communication to convey to our
clients what we are presenting
to them in our boutique:
the expression of our culture.
We deliver our information not
through marketing, but with a
true experience of our fragrances,
telling the story behind each one.
Our slogan in the company is:
“Yes, we think different”.
According to this philosophy, our
2015 is also characterized
by a second statement:
“today is a better day”.
And when we talk about the day,
it’s not only that, we define a
certain strategy, your attitude,
your performance, your
communication, during working
hours, with your friends, for
whatever you decide to do.
Regarding international brands
going towards oriental
fragrances, and proposing
them on our markets as well, I
believe that when the vision dies,
competition starts.
These big international brands
are coming to our markets
and bringing their experience.
We can learn from them,
we can share some experiences
with them and give something
better to the market,
our market, overseas markets.
What is mainly important
is not where brands buy the
ingredients to make a perfume.
At Halil Perfumes, we of course
use the best ingredients
offered by raw material companies,
coming from all over the world,
but, mainly, we ask our perfumers
to simply interpret our
emotions and thoughts.
This is our true signature, on a
creation that originated in the
place where the brain was
active at that specific moment.
EM: In which countries does your
company develop its business?
Will you be considering other
areas in the future as well?
MH: We sell our perfumes through
our own points of sale, plus
multi-brand stores and
the international chains
in the U.A.E., Saudi Arabia
and some GCC countries.
Talking about going international,
I’ll say once again that our main
objective is to fulfil our clients’
wishes; we are not working
hard to go outside:
we work super hard to create
the product that “the outside”
wants to come for it.
Once they discover our
fragrances, they can take
them away with them.
Everybody at our company is
working to make our brand
different, it’s a very clear direction
that can cross many borders.
We like to inspire everybody,
to make people think about
the Emirates, to create an echo.
So far, we have three perfume
brands, three food and beverage
brands, and in the pipeline
another six perfume brands
that will be ready by the end
of the year, two leather goods
and two chocolate brands.
We will create a global hub
for the Group to become
in a few years the
biggest local brand.
We also submitted to our
Government a special project
for Expo Dubai 2020,
something that, if accepted,
everybody will not forget
about for hundreds
and hundreds of years.
C.S.
HILAL PERFUMES: INSPIRED BY PASSION
Hilal Perfumes was founded
by former airline pilot
Mohamed Hilal who
decided to pursue
his passion for perfumes.
The Hind Al Oud brand is
the result of this passion and
obsession with perfumery.
Its engaging fragrances
are designed for men
and women who know
what they want and have
always achieved it.
The brand targets the high end
to exclusive segment.
Flagship boutiques are present
in the most prestigious
sections of the best malls
in the Gulf Region, from
the UAE to Qatar from
Kuwait to Saudi Arabia.
Anfasic Dokhoon is a modern
concept of contemporary
oriental fragrances focusing
primarily on incense, in
different forms for personal
use and home scenting.
Luxurious yet affordable,
Anfasic Dokhoon targets
the mid to high segment.
The collection also includes
scented massage candles,
body lotions, body scrubs,
incenses and accessories.
The Khaltat brand represents
love, feeling, emotions
and personal attachment,
with a selection of
modern fragrances body
lotions and gift sets.
Artlandi is an original and
versatile concept: one case
with six interchangeable scent
cushions, with fragrances
composed by the Italian
perfumer Arturo Landi.
13
PARIS
GALLERY
“the Middle East is a global hub
of trendsetting perfume”
THE CEO OF THE PARIS GALLERY GROUP
OF COMPANIES SHARES HIS IDEAS ON
FRAGRANCE IN THE MIDDLE EAST TODAY
Mohammed Abdul Rahim
Al Fahim, the CEO
The CEO of the Paris Gallery
Group of Companies is
Mohammed Abdul Rahim
Al Fahim, a member of the
Al Fahim family who founded
and owns the group.
He has played an active role in
developing the group’s overall
strategic plans, helping it take
its first steps into the luxury
retail sector as well as being
instrumental in restructuring
the management and increasing
company foothold in the market
and building brand value.
An advocate of corporate
governance that promotes
innovation, supports creative
thinking, and nurtures the
creative spirit of the employee,
he avidly shares his experiences
and expertise on the subject
at business forums worldwide.
This family man, now settled
in Dubai, is a keen reader,
socializer and soccer player.
14
EXPORT MAGAZINE: The world
of fragrances has changed a lot.
Fashion and renowned brands
are still being chosen by
customers, therefore another
trend is coming up, focusing
on what are known as
“artistic fragrances”.
How do you perceive
the market according to
today’s consumers’ attitudes?
MOHAMMED ABDUL RAHIM AL
FAHIM: Artistic or niche
fragrances have grown
very popular in this region.
They cater to the needs
of a specific audience,
His achievements
Under Mohammed Abdul Rahim
Al Fahim, Paris Gallery
has evolved into a dynamic
and diverse enterprise
with a growing portfolio
of iconic brands.
The company’s culture of
excellence has created an
environment where technology,
operational excellence and
excellent customer service
continue to play a role in the
company’s growing success.
Thanks to Paris Gallery
successes in introducing,
promoting and selling
high-end niche perfumes,
an audience that has a need
to express their individuality
and personal style.
Such niche fragrances become
essential to complement that need.
Artistic or niche perfumery
is becoming increasingly popular,
especially in this market.
They differ from designer
fragrances in that they focus more
on the originality of the scent
than just the packaging.
Higher concentrations of perfume
extracts and more natural
ingredients that tend to
last longer are used in the
creation of these perfumes.
many elite perfumeries
have been tempted to
open in-store boutiques
in Paris Gallery retail stores.
Under Mohammed Abdul Rahim
Al Fahim’s leadership, the Group
departed from the conventional
command and control model
of a family business to
a governance structure
that empowered people
to become leaders.
His strategy, the implementation
of which has led to strong
customer loyalty, was to create
a customer-centric organization
with a new position as a luxury
retailer dedicated to providing
And because there is a huge
demand for these scents,
key fragrance houses are
now producing exclusive
collections to meet this demand.
In the Middle East, where the
perfume culture is significantly
strong, consumers are willing to
pay for anything that expresses
their own individuality.
EM: The Middle East has always
been a market leader regarding
perfume consumption.
Do you think that today
is important to follow
it more carefully in order
customers with unique and
exclusive luxury products.
In just six years, Paris Gallery
increased its market foothold
through effective marketing
and a growing number of retail
stores in all the major cities
of the UAE and GCC.
It has grown to a commanding
position over nearly
half the luxury retail
market in the UAE.
Mr. Al Fahim and Paris Gallery
have received numerous
international awards, including
the 2013 CEO Middle East
award and the Global Award
for Perfection respectively.
to answer to the specific needs
of each single country? MARF: The Middle East has
a legendary taste for fine
fragrances and exotic ouds.
In fact, the Middle East is now
being established as a global hub
of trendsetting perfume creations.
International fragrance houses
are setting up bases in this
region to understand and
better interact with customers.
And we know for sure that
the sector is growing
by 5 - 6 percent annually,
which means there is a lot
happening in this region
in the fragrances sector.
This is our experience with
tourists from other countries.
They tend to fall in love
with them instantly.
It is obvious that international
brands are launching fragrances
inspired by the Middle East’s
rich perfume heritage.
This trend has been ongoing
for quite some time
and is still strong.
The reason these brands
do so is because they are
aware that the Middle East market
(along with other emerging
markets such as China & Russia)
are responsible for the industry’s
surge in sales.
C.S.
PARIS GALLERY: WHERE LUXURY IS AT HOME
The Paris Gallery Group
of Companies is a privately
held business group in
the Middle East with core
interests in beauty and
lifestyle products and services.
The group has almost become
synonymous with luxury
itself. From a single shop,
the Paris Gallery Group
of Companies now owns a
retail chain of over 85 stores
across the Middle East.
Paris Gallery, the leading
luxury retailer in the Middle
East, is the eponymous
flagship brand of the group.
With over 50 stores in
prime retail addresses in the
UAE, Saudi Arabia, Qatar
and Bahrain, these stores
offer a premium collection
of over 600 international
brands across several product
categories. The opulent
shopping environments,
innovative retail concepts,
service standards and
signature Arabic hospitality
practices makes the brand a
unique shopping and gifting
destination in the Middle East.
EM: What about olfactory trends?
Are fragrances created
in the Middle East
for local consumers
also suitable for European
and overseas customers?
And, on the other hand,
what do you think of the
fact that the most important
international brands are
launching fragrances influenced
by Middle Eastern taste, selling
them not only in the Middle East
but in the West as well?
MARF: Contrary to what many
people believe, fragrances
that are created exclusively
for local consumers are also
suited for Western tastes.
15
CLARINS
Interview with Osama Rinno,
Clarins Middle East CEO
This doesn’t mean that the normal
fragrances that all the big brands,
including us, offer are
not wanted anymore.
In fact, the masses today
still want the well-known
fragrance names and we are
doing a very good business.
EXPORT MAGAZINE: The world
of fragrances has changed a lot.
Fashion and renowned brands
are still being chosen by
customers, therefore another
trend is coming up, focusing
on what are known as
“artistic fragrances”.
How do you perceive
the market according to
today’s consumers’ attitudes?
OSAMA RINNO: Today there is a
very good business for the known
brand, nevertheless, there is
a new trend that is called
niche fragrances which
targets consumers
with very high disposable
income and that are looking
for uncommon fragrances.
They are looking for fragrances
that are unique, that not
many people can afford
(since they are mostly expensive),
and that will distinguish
them from their friends.
16
EM: The Middle East has always
been a market leader regarding
perfume consumption.
Do you think that today is
important to follow it more
carefully in order to answer
to the specific needs of
each single country?
OR: We can identify two
or three different tastes
in the Middle East.
Not every country has its own
different need or taste.
The taste in the Gulf
is more towards Oriental
Middle-Eastern fragrances.
This category is not well-liked
in Lebanon or Levant,
where consumer tastes
are more similar to European.
I would also categorize Iran
separately where it is a mix
between European and Gulf taste.
Having said that,
we have to admit that
sometimes tastes are intersecting,
although for a minority
of the total consumers.
When we talk about oud,
we mean the whole range of
“Oriental Fragrances”, including
rose, amber, musk and other
typical ingredients.
I feel it’s more of a term that is used
now to distinguish the Oriental
or GCC - specific developments.
In my opinion, people in general
like this new trend of “fragrances”,
even if sometimes companies
experiment with scents
that fail with the end - consumer,
once launched.
EM: What about olfactory
trends? Are fragrances created
in the Middle East for local
consumers also suitable
for European and
overseas customers?
And, on the other hand,
what do you think of the
fact that the most important
international brands are
launching fragrances influenced
by the Middle East taste,
selling them not only in the
region, but in the West as well?
OR: What we define as “oud” is
definitely developed for the
Middle East taste and
specifically, for the GCC.
Nevertheless, very slowly,
Westerners and Levant
expatriates living in the GCC
are adapting to this taste.
A few years ago it was not
acceptable for them, today
more and more ladies from
Levant and even Europe
are starting to wear them.
A nice phenomenon that
we just witnessed in Dubai is that
many Brazilian clients bought
our newly launched, Alien Oud
Majestueux, a product that has
been accepted and well
liked both by local and
non-local consumers.
I think that the European and
the Middle Eastern taste
is adapting to those fragrances
and our Alien Oud Majestueux,
with its “oriental touch”
is well liked by local consumers,
Middle Eastern Expatriates
and even Europeans because
of the fact that we are not
talking about “pure oud”,
but an “international oud”.
The fact that European taste
is changing is proven by the
outstanding success, a few years
ago, of our “Miroir de Volupté”
by Thierry Mugler.
It was our first oriental oud
and it’s selling very
well in GCC countries,
Levant and several European
countries, especially in the UK.
Nowadays, what is developed
in the Middle East by some
important local brands,
is sold in many countries
around the Globe.
They have their own shops and
they are increasingly successful.
EM: Does the Dubai office
also deal with duty free?
OR: Yes, it represents
one-third of our business.
The biggest part comes from Dubai
Duty Free, Qatar, Lebanon, Egypt
and Abu Dhabi Duty Free.
We are on board with Emirates
Airline, Saudi Arabian Airlines,
Middle East Airlines and Egypt Air.
SOME MORE QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
ABOUT CLARINS MIDDLE EAST
EM: Let’s talk about Clarins
Group Middle East also
regarding the other
categories of products...
OR: Besides fragrances, of course,
we have Clarins skincare and make up.
Within Clarins, skincare
represents 75% of our sales
and 25% is make-up.
As a Total Company, 60% of our
turnover is made with Clarins and
40% with our brands of fragrances,
Thierry Mugler and Azzaro.
Mugler is sold in A+ perfumeries
and department stores while Azzaro
in A & B perfumeries. Mugler is
more than 90% sold to women and
Azzaro more than 90% sold to men.
EM: Do you adapt the make-up
you sell in the Middle East to
consumers’ tastes?
OR: We didn’t in the past, but now,
as for fragrances, if you want to be
successful in make-up, then you
have to work on the local taste.
In Europe, consumers prefer
light or natural make-up.
In the Middle East, they like
strong make-up, with dark
eyeshadows and heavy colours.
That’s why, even if we are leaders
in skincare, we are still working
very hard to build up our make-up
pillar within this region.
We have an army of well-trained
beauty consultants and they are
make-up experts, ready to give
the best advice to our clients.
We also have local and regional
make-up artists who are in constant
contact with end consumer,
guiding them and educating them
on what is best suitable for them.
Our ambitious target is to be in the
top 5 Make-up brands by 2017.
We can reach this objective,
only by giving the consumers
what they really like.
EM: Do you also have
specific products for
your skincare products?
OR: Our skincare needs are the
same as the rest of the world.
Nevertheless, we have a whitening
line, developed specifically for the
Middle East and Asia needs.
This is not a common concern for
the European consumers but is very
specific for Asia and the Middle East.
C.S.
To be able to sell, make-up brands
have to adapt and develop
make-up suitable for the region.
This is what we have been
doing in the past few years,
and we are still continuously doing.
Make-up, in this region,
is the second most important
category after fragrances.
17
LAUNCH
FERRAGAMO
AND
TUSCANY
a love story in two special collections
Tuscan Soul Quintessential
Collection and Tuscan Scent
Quintessential Collection
have been created to highlight
the values of the fashion house
The Italian region of Tuscany has always
been a source of creativity and vision
for Salvatore Ferragamo and was
the place where his dreams came true.
Two special collections of fragrances
by the brand pay tribute to this idyllic area:
Tuscan Soul Quintessential Collection
and Tuscan Scent Quintessential Collection.
Tuscan Soul
Quintessential
Collection
Tuscan Soul Quintessential
Collection emphasizes the
values of a timeless fragrance
and attention to detail.
These values are accentuated
in the iconic bottle which
expresses the authenticity
of this one of a kind collection.
The clear bottle displays
the colours of each fragrance
highlighting the strength and
pureness of each essence.
The ash wood cap gives the bottle
an extra touch of elegance.
The outer packaging consists
of a precious white “leather-like”
paper box, with a built-in ash
wood framed base that acts
as a podium for the fragrance.
The contrast of the white box
and the dark wood give the
packaging an extra-refined touch.
18
The newest fragrance in the
collection is La Corte that will
be on shelf from April 2016.
It joins Bianco Di Carrara,
Vendemmia, Viola Essenziale,
Convivio, Punta Ala and Terra Rossa.
La Corte is inspired by the
dynasty o the Medici, the
powerful family that ruled over
Florence and Tuscany and played
an undisputable role in the
Renaissance and the flourishing
of the arts. It was their support
of the arts and humanities that
made Florence the cradle of the
Renaissance with the Court of the
Medici at its heart. As a homage
to the grandeur of Tuscan history,
La Corte is an olfactory creation
exuding all the enlightenment and
liveliness of the Italian Renaissance.
Tuscan Scent
Quintessential
Collection
This sumptuous collection comprises
fragrances that explore an olfactory
and sensory path through the
most intense scents of Tuscany.
Their luxurious black bottles,
enhanced with a handmade
cap made from the finest
Tuscan briar root wood, encodes
roughness yet refinement,
making each piece unique.
The renowned Gancino, embedded
on the cap, glows in luminous
gold, matching the precious
lettering, while contrasting with
the elegant black of the bottle.
A sophisticated black box,
with a leather-like touch, holds the
fragrance and is enriched
by a shiny gold frame which
acts as a podium for the bottle.
The newest addition to the
collection is Leather Rose that
will be on shelf from April 2016.
It joins White Mimosa,
Golden Acacia and Incense Suede.
Leather Rose is composed
around an exclusive and
extraordinary ingredient, the rose.
It is a fragrance of contrasts, where
the floral richness of roses is in
harmony with the most vigorous
and enthralling notes of leather.
Both collections are available
worldwide in the Salvatore
Ferragamo Boutiques and
Galeries Lafayette, Harrod’s,
Saks Fifth Avenue, Tsum and
other selected department stores.
THIERRY MUGLER
ALIEN OUD
MAJESTUEUX
the new and refined version of Alien
LAUNCH
With inspiration from
a sensual and spellbinding
vision of the Orient
Thierry Mugler imagined the luminous
universe of Alien ten years ago:
now it is imbued by the spirit of the Orient and
its splendour, mystery and wealth.
Oud, a rare, precious and enigmatic ingredient,
has been used in perfumery for centuries
and continues to be prized, especially in the
Middle East for its uncommon opulence.
Alien Oud Majestueux has been created
in close collaboration with the House of IFF
perfumers based in Dubai, to benefit from their
expertise in composing a fragrance as close
as possible to local preferences and as faithful
as possible to the temperament of the most
sought-after fragrances in the Middle East.
This “woody amber floral” has been built
around three revelations: a saffron revelation,
which differentiates this fragrance from the
original Alien, as its first notes pulsate with
the freshness of cardamom and the
flamboyance of saffron; an oud revelation,
with solar and floral sambac jasmine at
the heart of the fragrance, where it meets
cashmeran wood, the original Alien signature.
The accord is enhanced by the voluptuous
and exhilarating aromas of the oud accord.
Finally, as in the emblematic Alien wake,
white amber brings comforting,
enveloping warmth, joined by musk
for an infinitely seductive fragrance trail.
Alien Oud Majestueux comes in shimmering
gold colours. Precious glints cast a benevolent
sheen on the pure design of the bottle, faceted
like a gem, which holds the amber-tinted
fragrance. The box is pyramidal and gold, lined
with mirrors to reflect it ad infinitum.
19
LAUNCH ARTISTIC PERFUMERY
CRYSTAL
OUD
A sensual and unique
fragrance from
Alysonoldoini Collection
The 20 ml format Crystal Oud
20
The unique scent Crystal Oud
created by Benoist Lapouza
belongs to a woody aromatic,
fern olfactive family.
The focus notes are Vetiver
and Oud with Truffle.
The Vetiver is the indispensable
instrument and the reflection
of the masculine essence
and an intense attraction
for the femine universe.
The Oud balsam is captivating
and embraces the Vetiver
under a new light.
The white Truffle gives a tipycal
and exclusive connotation
calling “Artistic Fragrance”.
Crystal Oud with its superb formula
was introduced by the expert
Michael Edwards at Esxence 2015
in his talk on “Have the west
fall in love with oud”.
Crystal Oud simbolically represents
the point of connection between
the West and the Middle East.
The quest for the unexpected and
innovation enchains the mystic
culture of the Middle East.
ARTISTIC PERFUMERY LAUNCH
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Crystal Oud means the passage of
this evolution. The name “Crystal”
represents the Ovest side of the
perfume introducing the olfactive
journey throught out a new landscape
of magnificences lost in the
mood of the sensual Oud.
A new concept is discovered to
awaken in high feeling of the senses
in an unique sensorial journey.
Micheal Edwards is the creator
and author of Fragrances
of the World, universally regarded as
the “Bible” of perfumery.
It is independent and impartial,
unsurpassed in both its research
and scope, the definitive reference
trusted by perfumes, executives,
journalits, retailers, collectors
and shoppers worldwide.
Now in its thirty-first annual
edition, he created this annual
guide to help perfume
retailers advise their customers.
It organized perfumes into 14
fragrance families – including woods,
oriental, floreal, fruity and citrus – and
evev more subfamilies from which to
choose. Refreshed weekly the online
databank provides current and up to
date details on new launches, while
the annual guide book is in iconic
sales tool with current and historic
references at your fingertips.
The thirty-first edition,
fully revised and updated, was
launched in February this year.
In this edition is mentioned for
the first time the 8 exclusive
fragrances of ALYSONOLDOINI.
He describes Crystal Oud how
it is “mystical, sensual, unique.
21
LAUNCH
VERSACE
Eros Pour Femme,
a fragrance for passionate women
The absolute expression
of power and seduction
Donatella Versace herself greatly
wanted this fragrance: a creation
that explodes with passion and
an invitation to give in to desire!
Eros Pour Femme is a radiant and
sensual essence that expresses
strength, character and seduction.
The bottle is unmistakably Versace:
modelled on the mythological
codes of the Versace DNA.
The Medusa in relief in the
centre and the Greek key
on the contour infuse their
personality on the creation.
The back and the cap are in harmony
with the front, the first with
the decoration of the Greek key
in golden metal on the contour
and the second with the Medusa
in relief on the top.
22
The Eau de Parfum comes in a fine
deluxe box, with an elegant drawer-like
opening, typical of prestige jewellery.
Attraction, desire and passion have
been bottled in this alchemy of
seductive, luminous and feminine
notes. It is a refined accord of lemon
and jasmine, sublimated by soft
and sensual woods. The top notes
correspond to attraction, with
precious and vibrant Sicilian lemon
and Calabrian bergamot attracting
by their radiance, Delicious and
inviting pomegranate seeds surprise
and seduce. Desire is embodied by
two varieties of jasmine: the infusion
and the absolute Sambac express
authentic and timeless femininity.
Peony petals give velvety aspects
whilst the luminous touch of lemon
blossom exalts the floral
accords and evokes the tradition
and homeland of Versace.
The drydown reveals passion, in
mysterious and profound ambrox,
accompanied by an accord of sensual
woods, sandalwood and musk,
creating intense and enthralling notes.
The myth comes to life in the new
advertising campaign featuring
Lara Stone and Brian Shimansky.
Eros, the eternal god of love,
meets an unknown but all-consuming
passion in the figure of a mermaid
born out of the water.
The attraction is instantaneous,
skilfully captured by the directors
Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott,
under the artistic direction
of Donatella Versace.
LAUNCH
VERSACE
POUR HOMME
OUD
NOIR
for lovers of oriental fragrances
An intense and regal composition based
on one of the finest ingredients
of perfumery craftsmanship
The new oriental woody fragrance,
Versace Pour Homme Oud Noir, has
all the seduction of a desert sunset,
like a warm breeze in the air
giving a feeling of well-being.
Sensual and heady, its aroma
is almost aphrodisiacal.
Crafted with one of the finest
ingredients used in perfumery
since time immemorial,
oud, this fragrance is for lovers
of oriental fragrances,
a man with a strong personality.
Spicy and with a deep scent
of leather, the debut is characterized
by zesty notes of bitter orange
blended with fresh and sparkling
scents of neroli and a virile
touch of black pepper.
Spicy cardamom and saffron,
enriched by resinous notes
of olibanum, create a burning
and remarkable heart.
Intensely dark oud notes
enrich the fragrance,
wrapped by an elegant duo
of earthy patchouli and
textural leatherwood,
unveiling the hypnotic strength
of an addictive contrast.
The fragrance comes in the original
Versace Pour Homme bottle,
resembling a facet cut gemstone.
This time the flacon is elegantly
black, fading out gently
at the top of the bottle
and enriched with gold
accents for an opulent look.
23
EXPRESSIONS PARFUMÉES
Export Magazine met THIERRY FLEURICHAMP,
HEAD OF THE DUBAI OFFICE OF EXPRESSIONS PARFUMéES,
TO TALK ABOUT THE CHALLENGES
AND SATISFACTIONS OF THE MIDDLE EAST
EXPORT MAGAZINE: The world
of fragrances has changed a lot.
Fashion and renowned brands are
still being chosen by customers,
therefore another trend is coming
up, focusing on what are known as
“artistic fragrances”. How do you
perceive the market according to
today’s consumers’ attitudes?
THIERRY FLEURICHAMP: Today
we have to adapt to this new demand
which emerged a few years ago when
the MENA market was full of new
brands produced within the region.
This flood of new brands led to
a great change in customers’
minds, who looked for increasingly
rare, very rich and very exclusive
fragrances. It is now the time for
niche or artistic brands to lead the
market. New scents using unique
and expensive raw materials.
inspired by international brands
which were the first to succeed in
the Middle East (such as Tom Ford),
are showing the way... EM: The Middle East has always
been a market leader regarding
perfume consumption. Do you
think that today is important
to follow it more carefully in
order to answer to the specific
needs of each single country?
TF: It is more a tradition in the
Middle East than a trend.
Of course, consumption here is
more important than in many other
countries. We do not have such a
long-standing tradition in the West
and the needs are very different and
depend more on economic factors
rather than tradition. In this period
of financial and political instability,
the consumption of perfumes in
Middle East is only moderately
affected, which means this
is where there is still consumption
and of course international
brands must adapt their offers
to this market specifically.
These are and will become the most
important countries in terms of
consumption in the coming years.
The Middle East is now the focus
of international brands and
a source of inspiration.
EM: Which countries are
developing the fastest? TF: Iran, and African countries
are where the rates of
development are the highest. EM: What about olfactory trends?
Are fragrances created in the
Middle East for local consumers
also suitable for European
and overseas customers? TF: Not at all. In Europe the artistic
brands find echo only and
mainly in the Middle East.
Although the trends change slowly,
the European market resists in term
of olfactory change with a very
classic ranking which has remained
the same over the past few years. A new office in Dubai
for this French company based
in the capital of fragrance, Grasse
With an international outlook and to develop its potential in the
Middle East in particular, last year Expressions Parfumées opened
an office in Dubai under the management of Thierry Fleurichamp,
to better meet the needs of this important region, showing
great development in all the individual countries.
The team is soon to be completed by the arrival
of an expert perfumeur.
However, even though a tiny part
of consumers is looking for
exclusive perfumes, this doesn’t
mean that European habits
of consumption are changing. EM: And, on the other hand,
what do you think of the
fact that the most important
international brands are
launching fragrances influenced
by Middle Eastern taste, selling
them not only in the Middle
East but in the West as well?
TF: It is a question of adapting
and keeping market shares. The local brands cover
the market with well adapted
scents while the international
brands remain very classic.
The international brands
did not want to lose their
market shares and decided
to adapt their fragrances
to the Middle East market. Now, surprisingly, every major
brand is launching their private
collection using Middle Eastern
raw materials and following
Middle Eastern trends.
Even the international mastige
brands are developing deodorant
and shampoos.... following
the same concept. EM: Expressions Parfumées opened
an office in Dubai a year ago and
you are the General Manager.
Is it a commercial office
or do you also develop
projects from this location?
TF: Almost ten years ago we
opened our first office in Sharjah.
And at the time it was just a
marketing and commercial
office. Almost three years ago,
we moved to Dubai and opened
a technical lab in order to service
our customers faster. Our future
development and creation will now
be done directly in Dubai allowing
us to get closer to our customers. EM: How is this office
organized and how many
countries does it look after? TF: This office operates as a hub
for all Middle Eastern and Asian
markets: the GCC countries,
East Africa, Iran and India.
C.S.
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EXPRESSIONS PARFUMÉES: EXPERT KNOW-HOW TO CREATE FRAGRANCES OF SUPERB QUALITY
Expressions Parfumées can produce
creations to meet its customers’
desires and market trends,
with great emotional potential.
The company also works
in the areas of cosmetics,
home fragrances, personal hygiene
and soaps and detergents
for the industrial sector.
Claude Broggi and Jacques Lions, co-founders of Expressions Parfumées
Expressions Parfumées was founded in
1982 by three perfume manufacturers
who were motivated by the desire to
practise their profession following a
particular vision: the desire to have
a short and highly reactive decision
chain which adapts to all projects
in the field of fragrance creation.
Its success is the result of expert knowhow: responsiveness to market trends,
well-controlled delivery lead-times,
and cutting edge equipment ensuring
a constantly high level of quality.
The company is based in Grasse,
home to the fields of jasmine
and roses which are used in
the finest fragrances and capital
of the fragrance world, and works
in the purest local tradition
of the perfumery industry.
Its offer of fine fragrances extends
to luxury perfumery and mass retail.
The company has as its mission
to create perfumes which not only
offer irreproachable aesthetics
and are perfectly adapted
to customers’ supports,
but also preserve health
and respect the environment,
animals and plant species.
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COMPANY ARTISTIC PERFUMERY
luxury fragrances in the best of French tradition
HISTOIRES
DE PARFUMS
Gérald Ghislain, a self-admitted epicurean,
founded Histoires de Parfums
in 2000 making an old dream come true.
With Histoires de Parfum, Gérald Ghislain aims to perpetuate the French expertise
in perfumery, choosing ingredients, packaging and communication only of the
highest quality. Histoires de Parfum is unabashedly a luxury brand, with very
selective distribution in only the most prestigious perfumeries and leading
department stores. The collections created by Histoires de Parfums began with
those inspired by famous people who inspired their generation, with their years of
birth giving the perfume’s name, such as 1899, which is a tribute to Hemingway,
or 1725, when Casanova, the master of seduction came into the world.
The Opera collection exalts fragrances
and women. Like the notes of music,
fragrances are intangible, yet they
can be unforgettable as they linger
in the air and the memory.
Both ephemeral in nature, music
(and opera in particular) and
fragrance share several elements: they
both require great attention and skill
to be successful, they share the same
vocabulary of notes and accords.
It was this analogy that inspired
Gérald Ghislain, an opera aficionado,
to create his new collection
for Histoires de Parfum.
He wanted to fix the totality of this
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art, based on experiences for all the
senses, in fragrances: the five fragrances
inspired by five female protagonists
of well-loved operas are the result,
exalting both women and music.
Which operas have inspired these
creations? Turandot, 1926, with an
air of Eastern nobility; Norma, 1831,
a tribute to classic French perfumery;
Madame Butterfly, 1904, passion in a
delicate wrapping and the sensuality
of the Orient; Carmen, 1875,
a solar fragrance with fiery charm
and Queen of Spades, 1890,
the fragrance of the Slavic soul
and an all-consuming passion.
Created in the tradition of the
greatest classics of perfumery,
each fragrance comes in a bottle
of its own, made by master
glassmakers Waltersperger using
original moulds from the 1930s,
Art Deco masterpieces
contrasting with the current
trend of sleek design.
Magnetic red wooden boxes
house these gems and here
again there is a link with music:
the box is in fact a music
box which plays the opera
melody inspiring the fragrance.
After the success of the musical box,
Opera fragrances are now available
in a more accessible edition
to allow increasing numbers
of women to be exalted
by Histoires de Parfum
Opera fragrances.
LAUNCH
The New York-based company
presents promotional gondola
exclusively for travel retail
AMOUROUD
BY PERFUMER’S
WORKSHOP
a collection of olfactory memories
Perfumer’s Workshop, founded in New York in
1970 as a private company by Donald Bauchner
who is still at its helm, continues to dedicate
itself to the niche fragrance category with its
oud-inspired Amouroud range which is now
given a special promotional unit for travel retail.
Amouroud was launched this time last year
and has attracted great attention, in line
with the growing trend for niche fragrances.
The collection contains a wide range of new
and innovative fragrances, all with a strong
character and great persistence and several of
which are pure oud-based: Miel Sauvage, dark
orchid, Modnigth Rose, Oud du Jour, Silk Route,
Agarwood Noir, Bois d’Orient, Santal des Indes,
Oud After Dark and Safran Rare.
The fragrances are presented in opulent
and striking black and gold packaging.
With the growth of the niche fragrance sector,
travel retail is also dedicating greater space to
this category. The new Amouroud promotional
gondola will easily attract the attention of
passing travellers. It is decorated in the same
rich black and gold as the fragrance packaging
and the compact unit allows numerous SKUs
and gives potential customers the chance
to experience the wide range of innovative
fragrances. It has already received requests
for customizable units for line introductions,
proving that the niche category is definitely
gaining support. Perfumer’s Workshop is
currently in talks with numerous Middle Eastern
shops and there is a possibility in Europe.
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LAUNCH
chic and timeless, luxury and lightness…
Parfums Pergolèse paris
Parfums Pergolèse Paris is also
a classic range of oriental scents:
Ottomane inspired by the poetic
landscapes offered by the romantic
“Golden Horn”, which evokes
the flavours of the Orient.
An intense yet delicate exotic
fragrance, it combines
warm and sensual notes
of fruit and flowers.
French marigold, Damask rose,
jasmine, Japanese gardenia
and lilac open the composition.
The heart features coconut,
honey and peach wrapped
up with a spicy base
of patchouli and sandalwood.
Parfums Pergolèse Paris has
created a new men’s fragrance,
Rue Pergolèse Bullit pour Homme,
inspired by the timeless elegance
and atmosphere of Paris.
The fragrance captures
the spirit of Paris with
its top notes of mint,
lavender and bergamot.
The heart opens with spicy notes
of cinnamon and cumin,
accentuated by orange blossom.
Vanilla, Tonka bean, sandalwood
and cedar-wood provide the
framework for the background
of this oriental fragrance.
It has all the strength of a fresh
aromatic thanks to artemisia,
rosemary and mint, punctuated
with woody effects of vetiver,
softened in contact with musk.
The base rests on a particularly
strong patchouli structure.
It is a fern woody Oriental.
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PHOTOS: Dominique SILBERSTEIN
P. MAG CREATION / PARFUMS PERGOLESE PARIS
59, Rue de Miromesnil
75008 – PARIS
CONTACTS:
Mr. Patrick MAGAUD, C.E.O Ms. Djeylane RUFAS, Business Development Manager + 33(0)6.87.74.49.04
+ 33(0)6.79.14.26.69
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LAUNCH ARTISTIC PERFUMERY
MORESQUE
parfum
a tribute to the legacy of Arabic art
The splendour of Moorish
civilization is the inspiration
for a new brand rich in meaning
Moresque Parfum is a new brand
on the niche perfumery scene that
combines Italian creativity and
quality with the reminiscence
of “Oriental scents” in products of
subtle luxury, style and distinction.
Only rare and precious raw materials
of the highest quality are used in
these genderless Eau de parfums,
seven to date and divided into the
Black, White and Art Collections.
The Black Collection has three
audacious and intense creations.
Emiro is a tribute to the
monarchs and those in command.
It is a floral-leather perfume
that sues geranium Pantelleria
supported by contemporary and
exotic Patchouli from Indonesia.
Al-Andalus recalls the vibrancy and
the blazing sun of Andalusia in a fiery
and seductive Oriental scent which
diffuses the blazing sun of Andalusia
and the warmth of Oud from Jakarta.
Rand is a homage to the
“Desert Flower”, a floral-oriental
olfactory blend rooted in
powdery iris from Florence.
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The White Collection is ethereal
and refined with Diadema,
a gourmand fragrance that
celebrates sovereignty and nobility
through the sweetness of caramel.
Moreta, which takes its name from
the Spanish word for a stunning
woman of ravishing femininity,
is a fruity-floral, woody jus,
led by sensual Caribbean ylang-ylang
that expresses voluptuousness,
charm and natural charisma.
Tamima is an olfactory allegory
of the princess and poetess Tamima,
wife of the Almoravid Sultan
Ali ibn Yusuf of Morocco.
The floral-woody composition is
boosted by notes of Cashmeran.
The Art Collection currently features
one Eau de Parfum, Aristoqrati,
a woody-spicy fragrance sublimed
by Madagascar Vetiver, that embodies
the spirit of the aristocratic dynasties
of the Middle East and hints
at a special bond between
the sense of nobility and the arts.
Alongside the Collections of
Eau de Parfums, Moresque has
also created Esprit de Parfum,
in a desire to perpetuate the tradition
of scented oils, which have their
roots in Arabic perfumery culture.
Neither an Eau de Parfum or an
Extrait de Parfum, Esprit de Parfum is
a highly concentrated scented oil
that explores the “spirit” and key
essences of the brand’s perfumes.
Encapsulated in sumptuous crystal
flacons, they embody the essential
expression of the Eau de Parfum
Tamima (White Collection),
Al-Andalus (Black Collection)
and Aristoqrati (Art Collection).
To recreate an oriental atmosphere
in the home, Moresque also offers
a range of perfumed candles made
from mineral and plant waxes.
The candles, which burn for 40 hours,
come in the compelling scents of
Tamima, Al-Andalus and Aristoqrati.
The Largest International Trade Fair for
Beauty Products, Hair, Fragrances and
Wellbeing in the Middle East
May 15 – 17, 2016
Dubai International Convention
and Exhibition Centre, UAE
The business of
looking good is
looking great!
Ensure your participation at
Beautyworld Middle East, the
largest trade show of its kind
in the Middle East, and secure
your success in 2016!
Book your stand now!
www.beautyworldME.com
Messe Frankfurt Middle East GmbH
P.O. Box 26761, Dubai, UAE
Tel: +9714 389 45 00
Fax: +9714 358 55 22
beautyworld@uae.messefrankfurt.com
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