AESHM Department
AMD 204: Textile Science I, Introduction to Textile Science
Instructor: Chunhui Xiang, Ph.D., chxiang@iastate.edu, 1084B LeBaron Hall
Class: Meets in 2088 LeBaron Hall, Tuesdays and Thursdays, 9:30am - 10:50am
Fall 2013
AMD 204. Textile Science I. (3-3) Cr. 4. F.S. Prereq: 131. WWW lectures. Textile fibers,
yarns, fabrication, coloration, and finishes. Quality and performance application to consumer
soft goods and industrial textiles.
Course Objectives
A.
Gain a comprehensive vocabulary of textile terms.
B.
Apply knowledge of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, and finishes to determine the
quality and serviceability of fabrics in relation to end uses.
C.
Demonstrate understanding of uses of textiles in apparel and furnishings.
D.
Analyze and predict serviceability, performance, and end use of fabrics based on fiber
content, yarn structures, construction methods, and finish characteristics, including color.
Select appropriate textiles to meet the needs specified.
E.
To provide you with a strong professional perspective and knowledge base of textiles for
future educational and career endeavors.
Achievement of Course Objectives
Learning experiences and opportunities to achieve these objectives occur in Blackboard and in
class.

You MUST read the Blackboard lecture modules and answer the quizzes BEFORE class.

You MUST read the Kadolph text BEFORE class.
Required Text and Supplies
The Blackboard lectures and textbook provide the majority of content information for AMD 204.
The lab component of this class is used to clarify the lecture concepts with examples and handson evaluation experiences. As evidence of your professional development, you will have
completed the assigned readings BEFORE each class.
Kadolph, S. (2010). Textiles (11th Ed.) New Jersey: Prentice Hall, Inc.

Basic Textile Manual. Produced by Textile Fabric Consultants.

Marcketti, S. & Kadolph, S. (2010). Fabric Exam Swatch Kit. TN: Textile Fabric
Consult.

Linen tester or magnifying glass, 2 clear tapes, small labels for labeling swatches.
Bring your textbook to class each day unless otherwise specified.

Class Policies, Student Responsibilities, and Expectations
Attendance
Students are expected to attend class regularly and arrive on time for optimum learning to
occur. Because of the possibility of quizzes at the beginning and ending of class time, tardiness
or early departure may result in a lowered in-class course grade. It is the student’s
responsibility to read any assignments and announcements missed by absence from class.
AMD 204 Fall 2013 p.2
Cell Phones
Please respect your colleagues and the learning process by turning off your cell phone.
Completion of Assignments
Read the textbook and other reading assignments BEFORE coming to the class for which it was
assigned. Thoughtful reading of the text and readings and participation in discussions will
prepare you for tests and projects. You are responsible for all material disseminated in class,
including updated due dates. Students are responsible for obtaining copies of handouts,
information, assignments, and notes for missed classes. There are no make-ups for missed in
class assignments for any reason. Project assignments are due at the beginning of the
designated class. Late projects will be down-graded 10% if they are late on the date due, with an
additional 5 points off per day late. There are no make-up exams or projects without
documentation of an excused medical circumstance, family emergency or University-accepted
absence. If there is a dispute of grade on an assigned project, the student will submit to the
instructor in writing the complaint within one week of receiving the graded project.
An incomplete or “I” grade may be assigned when the student is passing at the time of the
request, but special circumstances beyond the student’s control prevent completion of the course.
Professional Behavior
Professional behavior and a professional work attitude are expected of all students at all times.
This includes respect and consideration of fellow students, faculty, and TAs; maintaining clean
classroom spaces; and active participation in classroom discussions. Demonstration of respect
includes arriving on time for class or appointments, appropriate demeanor (no whispering, laptop
playing, listening to music, cell phones ringing and answering, etc.)
Standards for Student Work
All student work (other than work completed in class) must adhere to the standards listed here:
 Typed-written using Times New Roman or similar font
 1” margins on all sides and in 11-12 point font
 Page numbers on top right of each page
 Running headers with the title of the work on top right
 Minimal spelling and grammatical errors
 Consistent bibliographic format, APA or Chicago preferred
 Stapled or bound with a spiral wire. No heavy plastic binders please.
Academic Dishonesty
From the Iowa State University Student Information Handbook:
“Academic dishonesty occurs when a student submits as his or her own work themes, reports,
drawings, laboratory notes, or other products prepared by another person; or knowingly assists
another student in such acts or plagiarism. Such behavior is abhorrent to the university…..”
Acknowledging the sources of material is a straightforward procedure that will strengthen the
paper and assure the integrity of the writer.
Room Expectations
AMD 204 Fall 2013 p.3
Students are REQUIRED to clean up the classroom after each class. Throw away ALL loose
fibers, yarns, fabrics in the trash can. Rearrange all disrupted furniture.
Special Accommodations
Please address any special needs or special accommodations with me at the beginning of the
semester or as soon as you become aware of your needs. Those seeking accommodations based
on disabilities should obtain a Student Academic Accommodation Request (SAAR) form from
the Disability Resources (DR) office (515-294-7220). DR is located on the main floor of the
Student Services Building, Room 1076.
Course Fees Students will be assessed a course fee to cover educational materials.
Course Assignments
On-Line Quizzes
On-line quizzes are an important part of your independent learning of the AMD 204 material.
There are 14 on-line quizzes that correspond to the Blackboard lecture content. These quizzes
must be taken before the 9:30am class and cannot be made up after the due date. You will be
allowed 2 attempts for each quiz and will receive the highest score from the attempts.
Learning Activities and Quizzes
Learning activities will include both individual and group work assignments. Learning activities
will include fabric analysis and work in the lab manual. The instructor may decide to count any
of the learning activities for points. There are NO make-ups due to absence or lateness.
Exams
Three exams will be given covering the topics of Fibers and Yarns, Fabric Construction, and a
comprehensive final exam. The first two exams will cover only the material specified. The third
exam is comprehensive. All exams may include the following types of questions: true/false,
multiple choice, essay, and examination of fabrics. Make-up exams will be given only when a
legitimate excuse is provided before the exam. A legitimate excuse includes a doctordocumented illness, class-required professional travel (i.e., AMD 380 with instructor’s
permission), and other reasons discussed with the instructor BEFORE the exam.
Fabric Names Project
This project will help you become more familiar with fabric names and increase your awareness
of how and why they are used to describe products. Find 5 basic weaves, 5 fancy weaves, 5 knits
(must include warp and weft knits), and 5 other fabrications as used in advertisements in either
print or online catalogs or magazines (for a total of 20 total fabric names). Create a paper that
includes the advertisement, your definition of the fabric name, and a reason why you think the
company chose to utilize this fabric. You are to classify the fabrics selected according to type,
i.e., basic weaves, fancy weave, knits (clarify warp or weft), and other fabrications. List this
classification on the page of the advertisement and in a table of contents. Include a cover page
with your name, course number, and date. Turn into the instructor a stapled or spiral bound
copy of your project. Hard plastic binders will not be accepted.
Online Discussion of Readings
AMD 204 Fall 2013 p.4
Readings are posted to Blackboard under the readings icon. Students will read a total of five
articles, one from each category listed online. Students will then enter a constructive statement
and discussion of the article under the discussion of readings icon. Online postings of the
discussions allow students to see what other students’ have said, to respond to other students’
comments, and to begin discussion of new articles.
Designer Challenge Project
An applied textile project designed with the student in mind. Depending upon the student’s
major and career aspirations, this project causes students to stretch their imagination and apply
knowledge learned in this course. Choose either an Interior Design or Apparel Design project.
Submit project through Blackboard.
Extra Credit
Maintaining a perfect attendance record can earn you up to 5 extra points. Students who miss no
classes will receive 5 extra credit points. Students who miss 1 class will receive 2 extra credit
project points. Only school-related absences with documentation will be accepted as excusable
absences for the extra credit opportunity.
All projects and assignments must be received by the instructor on the date on the schedule.
Course Grades
On-Line Quizzes
Exams
Fabric Names Project
Readings
Designer Challenge Project
In-Class Assignments
Total Points
70 points
150 points
50 points
15 points
50 points
20 points
355 points possible
Grading Scale
Grades are based on cumulative points. Grades are NOT curved.
93-100
A
73-77
90-92
A70-72
88-89
B+
68-69
83-87
B
63-67
80-82
B60-62
78-79
C+
< 59
C
CD+
D
DF
AMD 204 Fall 2013 p.5
Fabric Names Project (50 points)
This project, designed to help synthesize your knowledge and understanding of fabrics, will help you
become more familiar with fabrics names and increase your awareness of how they are used to describe
clothing and interior textile products.
1. Find 20 unique fabric names (5 basic weaves, 5 fancy weaves, 5 knits, and 5 other
fabrications). A list of fabric names is in your lab manual, on Blackboard and in Textiles book.
2. Find advertisements either in magazines, catalogues, or on the Internet that show an example of
a fabric name you selected. Copy the advertisement into a word document. All ads must contain
a traditional fabric name in the text accompanying the ad. You must have 20 unique fabric
names—for example, if you find an advertisement for a satin bedspread, you cannot also use an
ad for a satin evening gown or throw pillow. Make sure to include both the picture AND the text
that describes the product. Pictures may be in color or in black and white.
3. Highlight the fabric names in each advertisement.
4. Directly underneath the ad, type in your own words the definition of that fabric name. Definitions
may be found in you lab manual, on Blackboard, or in Textiles.
5. Write a brief statement about each fabric you find, giving your assessment of why that fabric is or
is not appropriate for the product that is being presented. Justify your statement by reasoning
about the textile information that is supplied and comparing it to your assessment of the end use
of the product. For example; If I found a summer dress that was advertised with “challis” as the
fabric used in the garment, I would write a statement about how the challis is an excellent choice
for a lightweight, drapable and comfortable garment that might feel good next to the skin
especially in the humid summer months. You do not need to mention fiber type.
6. Make a title page with your name and a Table of Contents that lists each fabric name and the
page on which it can be found. Also classify in the table of contents the fabrics selected according
to type, i.e., basic weave, fancy weave, knit, other fabrications, and list this classification with the
fabric name and page number in a table of contents.
7. Type all information in no less than 10-12 size fonts. Please make sure that your fabric name
compilation is neat and attractive! Print out and staple or spiral bind.
NOTE OF CAUTION: Be sure to locate FABRIC names and NOT fiber names!
Fabric Names Rubric
20 unique fabric names, ads with text
Definition of fabric name
Justification of fabric
Neatness and attractiveness
Table of contents page
Total
Percentage
Points Possible
20
10
20
Possible -15
Possible -10
50 possible points
100%
Points Received
AMD 204 Fall 2013 p.6
Designer Challenge Client Scenario List (50 points)
Directions: READ CAREFULLY!
In class, students will select a case from the existing interior design or apparel projects. Students must
work in pairs of two. The project includes a written component and oral and visual presentation. You are
to include in your paper: the paper, 2 charts, references, and a copy of your presentation (multiple slides
per page, printed in black and white).
STEP # ONE:
Written Assignment:
Include a statement about your “designer challenge.” Then, write a paper that thoroughly explains the
fabrics chosen for their particular end use, including:
 fiber content
 yarn structure
 fabric construction (knit, woven, nonwoven, composite fabric)
 fabric name
 coloration process (fiber, yarn, piece dyed, block printed, etc.)
 possible finishes applied to enhance the basic characteristics of each fabric (ex. ScotchGardTM
finish on upholstery to prevent staining).
 Suggested care for the product.
 Include an analysis using appropriate serviceability terminology regarding the suitability of these
fabric properties for the end use of the product.
Most products that you find on the Internet or in catalogs will list only fiber content. For some products
you will have to make an educated guess as to which finish or coloration process was used to achieve the
specific look. Include proper terminology in your paper.
Example:
For example, if I selected the child’s wardrobe designer challenge, I might select a seersucker dress
composed of:
 100% cotton
 two-ply combed spun yarns
 slack tension weave
 yarn-dyed
 stain release finish
 machine wash care in a delicate cycle with cold water, low heat dry, and then a light iron
 I would then explain in the body of the paper why I selected this fabric. For example: Cotton is
a natural cellulosic seed fiber that has excellent absorbency, pleasing appearance, easy care,
moderate cost, and good durability (Kadolph, 2010). These qualities make cotton ideal for warmweather summer wear and for clothing suited for a child that might spill or dirty the fabric. The
two-plyed average twisted yarns are durable and strong and the combing process produces a yarn
that is smooth, fine and even. This smoother yarn type is excellent for a seersucker garment that
is meant to be light weight and a bit more expensive than a casual jumper for a young child. The
slack tension weave is created by holding one warp beam at regular tension and the other warp
beam at slack tension. When the filling yarns are beaten into place, the crinkled or puckered
stripe of the seer sucker is produced. By dyeing some yarns white and some yarns pink, the
traditional seersucker look is achieved. Seersucker is traditionally worn in the summer time.
Because the fiber is cotton, a direct dye class was probably used. The stain release finish was
probably chemically bonded to the surface of the fabric so that solid soils do not bond with the
fabric. This finish is important for a young child. Because seersucker is a low-profit, high-cost
item, it would be nice to have multiple months, perhaps even years of wear. To care for the
AMD 204 Fall 2013 p.7
dress, I would recommend washing by machine on a delicate cycle with cold water, low heat dry,
and then a light iron because the slack-warp tension weave intrinsically resists wrinkling. Please
learn from but do not use this example!
Picture examples of types of garments or interiors you select need to be included either within or at the
end of the paper and labeled within the text of the paper and as figures.
STEP # TWO:
Fabrics and their specific characteristics need to be identified in a chart format in an appendix of the
paper. (Use Word or Excel to set up the charts identifying the textiles and budget.)
Product
Fiber
Yarn
Fabric
Coloration
Finish
Care
Seersucker
100%
2-ply
Slack tension
Yarn dyed
Stain
Machine
dress
cotton
combed
(seersucker)
release
wash,
yarns
iron
STEP # THREE:
Include a budget sheet in an appendix that lists a description of the item, place where the dress was found,
and retail price. Remember to total the items.
Product
Store
Retail Price
Seersucker dress
One of a Kind Kid
$38.00
STEP # FOUR: You will create a 3 to 5 slide PowerPoint presentation that you will email to Dr.
Chunhui Xiang at chxiang@iastate.edu by at least 3pm on the day BEFORE your presentation.
Dr. Xiang will create one PPT presentation from your emails so that we are ready to start with
presentations at exactly 9:30am. If you do not email Dr. Xiang the PowerPoint by 3pm, you will
not be allowed to present to the class and will lose the possible presentation points. Your 3-5
slides on your PP should highlight in detail 1 to 2 garments that you selected. You will have
exactly 4 minutes for your presentation.
STEP # FIVE: Re-read through your paper and check for any spelling or grammatical errors.
Make sure that your sentences are complete and will make sense to a reader. Include a cover
page with your name and designer challenge case title and attach a bibliography page at the end
of the paper. Be sure that you explained WHY each fabric was chosen for its specific end
use. It is always a good idea to have someone other than you review the paper. Staple together
the paper and copy of your presentation. DO NOT place paper in plastic sheets or binders.
COMMERCIAL/RESIDENTIAL DESIGN CASE OPTIONS
Keep the general ideas of the cases intact. Please feel free to personalize the cases by changing
names and by elaborating the details of the cases. You do not have to buy furniture for any of
the cases, only textile related products. Detail and describe at least 5 distinct textile items.
1. Teenager’s Bedroom
Convert a little kid’s bedroom into a teenager’s room that meets study, sleep, and “just hanging
out” needs. Identify and find fabrics for window treatments, bedding, pillows, rugs/carpets, and
wall hangings to name a few textile possibilities for the room. The room measures 10 ft. x 12 ft.
and your budget is $200.
2. The Empty Nesters New Office
AMD 204 Fall 2013 p.8
Terry and Vanessa have just had their last child move out of the house. It is their desire to have
their daughter’s bedroom converted into a home office that can also accommodate Vanessa’s
small business. They require draperies and upholstered furniture to include comfortable chairs
and a couch that can be converted into a queen-sized bed for company in the future. The room
measures 10 ft. x 10 ft. and your budget for the transformation is $500.
APPAREL DESIGN/MERCHANDISING CASE OPTIONS
For each apparel design/merchandising case, you are to select five complete outfits that meet
the needs specified in the cases. Describing undergarments is not a necessity.
1. Second Honeymoon
Mark and Jane will be celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary in June of next year and would
like to take a relaxing “second honeymoon.” They have decided to take a 5-day cruise. Select the
destination (can be warm or cold weather) and then select five outfits (or elements of five outfits)
(for either Mark or Jane) that mix and match for their planned activities during the cruise:
exquisite dining, swimming/skiing, hiking/ice climbing, spa/gym day, and shopping at ports of
call. The wardrobe needs to be easy to care for and appropriate for their ages (Mark is 55 and
Jane is 50). The clothing budget is $250 for Mark and $250 for Jane.
2. Wardrobe for the Motor Mansion Retirees
Fred and Carol want to travel in their luxury motor coach to the United States, Canada, and
Mexico. Develop a wardrobe plan for either Fred (age 78) or Carol (age 75) that meets their
needs for traveling, entertaining, and sight-seeing. You decide where their destination is for their
next summer or winter trip and then create a wardrobe that is easy to care for, compact, and
mixes/matches well for the trip. Include 5 complete outfits for their possible adventure. They do
have a washer and dryer in their “rig” as well as closet space to hang clothing. The budget for a
new wardrobe (for either Carol or Fred) is $300.
3. Child’s Wardrobe
Jamie (either a boy or girl) is a toddler that is growing up all too fast. Her mother wants to buy
clothing for this 3-year old that will adapt and grow with the child. Choose five outfits that will
meet the needs of play time, a party occasion, swimming, pre-school, and a trip to the
grandparents’ house in Alaska. Identify fabrics for the clothing items that you choose that will
be easy to care for, durable, and mix and match easily. The budget is $100.
4. Dress for Success
Margaret and Mike have recently graduated from Iowa State University with degrees in fashion
merchandising with minors in accounting. They would both like to work for conservative, global
apparel companies. Margaret and Mike will need five outfits/components of five outfits: one suit
appropriate for interviewing, at least two pairs of dress slacks, and several blouses/shirts that add
versatility to their garments. Both Margaret and Mike are interested in classically-styled
garments that will remain fashionable for at least two years. It is not necessary, yet acceptable to
select accessories such as shoes, belts, and scarves. The budget (for either Margaret or Mike) is
$300.
5. Move to a Senior Citizen Retirement Community
AMD 204 Fall 2013 p.9
Jackie is a senior citizen and is moving into a senior citizen retirement community. Jackie (either
a man or a woman) struggles with arthritis, but is mobile and enjoys life to the fullest! Design a
wardrobe for Jackie that can accommodate the following activities: stretching/senior exercise
class, religious services, an outing to a five star restaurant and the theatre, a night of card playing
with friends, and a trip with the grandchildren to the local botanical center. The budget is $300.
6. Plus-Size Teen
Sam (either a boy or a girl) is a plus-size teenager. Sam is like any other teenager and likes to fit
in with the other kids at school. Select five outfits for Sam that include the activities of hanging
out with friends, attending a high school dance, going to a favorite group’s concert, attending a
formal party in honor of an older relative, and attending a sporting event. The budget is $300.
7. Green Challenge
Find five outfits that will be used for a variety of activities, but must contain sustainable “green”
fibers, yarns, dyes, and/or socially responsible business practices. Document and justify fabric
selections and include a statement as to why these products are “green.” You will probably have
to research the companies that produce the products. The budget is $400.
8. Adventure Challenge
Tracy (either a man or woman) is an adventurer. Select five outfits or components of outfits for
the winter activities of skiing, hiking, ice skating, and resting at the lounge, or summer activities
of bodysurfing, tennis, hiking/trail running, and resting after a hard workout. The budget is $500
Designer Challenge: Evaluation Rubric
Evaluation Indicators
Points
AMD 204 Fall 2013 p.10
Possible
I. Paper
A. In the first paragraph a problem statement clearly defines the parameters of the project.
40
B. All design decisions identified and justified (i.e., why fabrics were selected for each
design concept). Include information about fibers, yarns, fabric construction, coloration,
finish, and care. Correct terminology used consistently throughout the paper.
C. Chart of fabric justifications included (a possible -10 points possible).
D. Budget sheet (a possible -5 points possible).
II. Presentation
A. Your visual presentation is neat with words and images that can be viewed by the
majority of the class. The text and the background are different colors and/or different hues
so that the text can be clearly read.
B. Your oral presentation is well prepared; all participants look and sound like they have
practiced the material with few “ums” and “ahs” with little giggling and/or other
inappropriate behavior. The oral presentation elucidates the written material of the paper and
of the visual presentation.
5
C. Participants are professionally and appropriately dressed to present their study to potential
“clients” (a possible -15 points).
III. Organization of Project
A. Professional paper neatly typed in 12-pt. font type with cover identifying the project and
designer(s). Project is stapled together and not included in plastic sheets or binders.
5
B. Minimal spelling and grammatical errors.
C. Identification of books, current periodicals, and websites in APA form to document
design decisions. Reference page to include all sources consulted and identified within the
body of the paper through citations. APA citations within the body of the paper that include
author(s) and publication date to document design decisions (possible -10 points)
Total Points:
Comments:
AMD 204 Fall 2013 Course Schedule
Days left blank on the calendar indicate a continuation of course material.
50
AMD 204 Fall 2013 p.11
Lab
#
Day
Date
1
2
3
4
5
6
Tuesday
Thursday
Tuesday
Thursday
Tuesday
Thursday
8-27
8-29
9-03
9-05
9-10
9-12
7
Tuesday
9-17
8
Thursday
9-19
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
Tuesday
Thursday
Tuesday
Thursday
Tuesday
Thursday
Tuesday
Thursday
Tuesday
Thursday
Tuesday
9-24
9-26
10-01
10-03
10-08
10-10
10-15
10-17
10-22
10-24
10-29
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
Thursday
Tuesday
Thursday
Tuesday
Thursday
Tuesday
Thursday
10-31
11-05
11-07
11-12
11-14
11-19
11-21
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
Tuesday
Thursday
Tuesday
Thursday
Tuesday
Thursday
Tuesday
11-26
11-28
12-03
12-05
12-10
12-12
12-17
Blackboard Lecture Content
(Read with quizzes completed
before 9:30am class)
Introduction*
Serviceability
Introduction to Fibers
Natural Fibers
Put lab manual together
Creation of Manufactured and
Synthetic Fibers
Manufactured Fibers and
Synthetic Fibers
Assignment
Textbook
(Read before
class )
C. 1
C. 2
C. 3
C. 4 and 5
Bring tape!
C. 6
C.7, 8, 9
Review (class
activity)
Yarns
C. 10 and 11
Review: Quiz Bowl
Exam 1
Museum Tour
Basic Weaves
Fancy Weaves
C. 12
C.13
Knits
Other Fabrications
C.14
C. 15
Fabric Names
Project Due
Finishes
C. 16, 17, 18
Review: Quiz Bowl
Exam 2
Dyeing
Printing
C. 19
C. 19
Walmart Excursion
Care of Textiles and Legal and
Environmental Issues
University Holiday, No Class
University Holiday, No Class
Career Exploration
C. 20 and 21
C. 22
Review: Quiz Bowl
Designer Challenge
Designer Challenge
9:45 –
Final Exam
Complete Readings
11:45am
* The first class day material, named Introduction, is the only exception to the read before class rule.
Students will have until 11:55 pm on August 28 to read the Introduction Lecture content and complete the
corresponding quiz.