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2014 NJ State 4-H Dog Bowl
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STUDY GUIDE
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The Dog Bowl Committee has decided to continue to use this study packet for the Fourth Annual NJ State
4-H Dog Bowl competition. All the questions in the 2014 NJ State 4-H Dog Bowl will be taken from the
information in this packet or the links to other source information. However you will only be responsible for
information in this packet
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It is also our intention to keep the questions less difficult to encourage participation
by all eligible 4-H members.
Leaders, coaches, parents, or 4-H members, please feel free to contact the Dog Bowl Committee chair,
Dottie Allen at 856-234-6117 or email at DottieAllen@comcast.net
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Information
Teams can be formed by counties prior the entry in the Dog Bowl and/or individual 4-H members can enter
and be placed on a team with other NJ 4-H members.
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We will be awarding ribbons to all members of the top six Junior and the top six Senior teams as well as the
top ten individuals in both the Junior and Senior divisions.
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Seeing Eye Project Members
The information in this study guide is for the State 4-H Quiz Bowl ONLY. You should refer to your Seeing
Eye Puppy Project Manual for specifics about your pups. (for example, the grooming section states to clean
the ears with mineral oil and water, The Seeing Eye prefers the use of ear cleaning solution).
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Source Information for 2014 NJ 4-H Dog Bowl Competition
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4-H Information
NJ 4-H
Dog Parts
Seeing Eye Dogs
Canine Good Citizen testing
AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy
AKC Therapy Dog Title
AKC Obedience
4-H Obedience
NJ 4-H Obedience Rules
AKC Rally
NJ 4-H Rally Rules
AKC Agility
NJ 4-H Agility Rules
AKC Breed Information
Canine Partners & ILP
Performance Events
Dog Health
When to get Help
Bloat
Microchipping
AVMA web links
Spaying and Neutering
Cancer
Distemper
Canine Parvovirus
Dog Bite Prevention
External Parasites
Internal Parasites
Heartworm Disease
Vaccinations
Rabies
Household Hazards
Season weather tips
Diabetes
Leptospirosis
Travel with pets
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Table of Contents
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4-H Showmanship
Jobs for Dogs
Grooming
Reproduction (only used in Senior Dog Bowl)
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4-H Information
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4-H is the largest out of school youth organization in the United States with over 6 million youth members
and 500,000 teen and adult volunteers. There is Cooperative Extension staff responsible for 4-H programs in
every county and city - so there's probably a 4-H program near you. Whether you live in a city, suburb or rural
area, there's something for you in 4-H. In most states, you can join 4-H if you are between the ages of 8-18.
Some areas have special age-appropriate programs designed especially for younger kids.
Where are 4-H programs found
4 -H programs are conducted in 3,150 counties of the United States, and also in the District of Columbia,
Guam, Puerto Rico, and the Virgin Islands. In addition, more than 80 countries around the world have youth
programs similar to 4-H, with an overall enrollment of about 10 million young people.4-H and related
programs exist in over 80 countries around the world. These programs operate independently, as there is no
international 4-H organization. However, through international exchanges, global education programs, and
communications, they share a common bond in 4-H.
History
4-H didn't really start in one time or place. 4-H started over 100 years ago. The seed of the 4-H idea of
practical and “hands-on” learning came from the desire to make public school education more connected to
country life. Early programs tied both public and private resources together for the purpose of helping rural
youth.
During this time, researchers at experiment stations of the land-grant college system and USDA saw
that adults in the farming community did not readily accept new agricultural discoveries. But, educators found
that youth would "experiment" with these new ideas and then share their experiences and successes with the
adults. 4 -H clubs were preceded by corn clubs for boys and canning clubs for girls, organized in the early
1900's by public school educators who wanted to broaden the knowledge and experience of their students.
So rural youth programs became a way to introduce new agriculture technology to the adults. A.B.
Graham started one such youth program in Ohio in 1902. It is considered the birth of the 4-H program in the
U.S. When Congress created the Cooperative Extension Service at USDA in 1914, it included boys' and girls'
club work.
Nearing its 50th anniversary, 4-H began to undergo several changes. In 1948, a group of American
young people went to Europe, and a group of Europeans came to the United States on the first International
Farm Youth Exchange. Since then, thousands of young people have participated in 4-H out-of-state trips and
international exchanges. 4-H began to extend into urban areas in the 1950's.
Later, the basic 4-H focus became the personal growth of the member. Life skills development was
built into 4-H projects, activities and events to help youth become contributing, productive, self-directed
members of society. The organization changed in the 1960's, combining 4-H groups divided by gender or race
into a single integrated program.
4-H Lore
The 4-H Pledge
“I Pledge my Head to clearer thinking,
my Heart to greater loyalty,
my Hands to larger service,
and my Health to better living,
for my club, my community, my country, and my world."
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As the youth development program of the nation’s 109 land-grant universities and the Cooperative Extension
System, 4-H fosters an innovative, “learn by doing” approach with proven results.
The 4-H Study of Positive Youth Development, a longitudinal study conducted by the Institute for Applied
Research in Youth Development at Tufts University, shows youth engaged with 4-H are:
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Nearly two times more likely to get better grades in school;
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Nearly two times more likely to plan to go to college;
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41 percent less likely to engage in risky behaviors; and
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25 percent more likely to positively contribute to their families and communities.
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The 4-H Emblem, Colors, and the four H's The original symbol of the Boys and Girls Clubs was a three leaf clover with the words Head, Heart,
and Hands. Nebraska clubs used the words as part of their statement of purpose: "to educate the youth of the
county, town and city to knowledge of their dependence upon nature's resources, and to the value of the fullest
development of hand, head and heart...."
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4-H colors / Motto
The 4-H emblem is federally protected under Section 18 US Code 707 and belongs to the Congress of the
United States. The official emblem is green with white H's - the 4-H colors. The white symbolizes purity. The
green represents nature's most common color and is emblematic of youth, life, and growth. The 4-H motto is
“To Make the Best Better”. The motto was adopted at about the same time as the 4-H Club Pledge. Its intent is
to inspire young people to continue to learn and grow, to make their best efforts better through participating in
educational experiences.
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4-H Slogan “Learn By Doing” This phrase sums up the educational philosophy of the 4-H program. Young people learn
best when they are involved in their learning. The intent is to do, reflect, and apply.
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National 4-Week
National 4-H week is held the first full week of October. During National 4-H Week in October, the nearly 6
million 4-H members and over 500,000 adult and youth volunteers celebrated their involvement in 4-H.
County and state 4-H programs planned a variety of activities to promote 4-H to the public and to recognize
4-H accomplishments.
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NJ 4-H
Cloverbud Program
As of September 1, 2009 the New Jersey 4-H Prep Program became the New Jersey 4-H Cloverbud Program.
The 4-H Cloverbud Program is designed to provide K-3 youth with age-appropriate experiential learning
activities in a small club setting. These youth may be registered members of a 4-H Cloverbud club or in a
standard club. This program, in the tradition of the Prep Program, will remain non-competitive. The 4-H
Cloverbud Program is a nationally recognized program for younger 4-H members.
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4-H Camp
The Lindley G. Cook 4-H Camp is located on 108 beautiful acres in Stokes State Forest, Sussex County, N.
J. The camp is operated by Rutgers Cooperative Extension and is owned by Rutgers University.
Special Interest/Short Term Programs/Day Camps - Groups of youth meeting for a specific learning
experience for one or more sessions, which involves direct teaching by Extension staff or trained volunteers,
including teachers. Such a program is not part of school curriculum and cannot be restricted to members of 4H clubs. This delivery mode does not usually continue for as long as a 4-H club. Examples might be a threeweek babysitting course or a weekend-long state 4-H teen conference if they are open to the public.
Overnight Camping Programs - Youth taking part in an Extension planned educational experience of group
living in the out-of-doors which includes being away from home at least one night (resident, primitive or
travel camping). This experience cannot be restricted to members of organized 4-H Clubs. Most 4-H summer
camps fit this description if youth from the public are equally welcome to attend as 4-H club members.
School Enrichment Programs - Groups of youth receiving a sequence of learning experiences in cooperation
with school officials during school hours, to support the school curriculum. An example might be a volunteer
visiting a school to present a special program on science to youth during classroom hours and promoting 4-H
while doing so.
School-Aged Child Care Education Programs - Educational programs offered to youth outside of school
hours, usually in a school or other community center and incorporating 4-H curricula. The primary purpose is
to provide care for youth while parents are working or unavailable. (Youth who are members of 4-H clubs in
school age child care settings are considered members of "organized 4-H clubs.")
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Dog Parts
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back - the part of the body between the loin
loin - the parts of the body located on both sides
and the withers.
of the backbone between the ribs and the hips.
brisket - the chest of the dog.
carpals - the wrist, the bones of the pastern
muzzle - the front parts of the jaws.
nose - the tip of the muzzle.
pastern - the part of the leg below the carpals
joint.
dewclaw - the tiny, useless, fifth claw located on the inner part of the leg above the
other toes.
ear - the fleshy, often triangular appendages on
the head associated with hearing.
(wrist) of the front leg or below the hock of the hind
leg.
ruff - the long, thick hair that grows around the
neck.
shoulder - the joint at the uppermost part of
flews - the hanging part of the dog's upper lips.
the forelegs.
forearms - The parts of the forelegs between stifle - the dog's knee, located on the hind leg
the elbow and the pastern.
above the ankle.
forefoot - the front feet.
hindfoot - the back feet.
hips - the joints at the uppermost part of the
stop - the indented part of the skull between the
hindlegs.
eyes.
tail - the hind-most part of the backbone, set on
the rump.
hock - the bones that form the ankle/heel of the thigh - the upper part of the hind leg.
withers - the top of the shoulders, just behind
dog.
the neck.
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Seeing Eye Information
from: http://www.seeingeye.org/CMS/uploads/Newspeakerskit.pdf
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Volunteers in The Seeing Eye Puppy-Raising Project have a unique opportunity to make a positive
contribution to society. Since 1942, Seeing Eye puppy-raisers have helped blind men and women from
across the United States and Canada to increase their independence, dignity, and self-confidence through the
use of Seeing Eye dogs. Puppy-raisers’ early, hands-on attention gives the pups a firm foundation of love and
security, enabling them to meet their special destiny as the eyes for blind people. Puppy raising brings family
members closer together in a common cause. It builds character in children, teaching them early in life to help
others. And it ultimately assists the hundreds of blind people each year who return to their families, friends,
and jobs with competent, confident Seeing Eye dogs at their sides.
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The Seeing Eye Puppy-Raising Project began in 1942 in Morris County, New Jersey. About 35
puppies were placed in homes the first year.
The program now is open to residents of New Jersey, and parts of Pennsylvania and Delaware and
Maryland.
Currently, an average of 650 to 675 individuals and families in four states are raising puppies.
Most puppy-raisers are children between the ages of 9 and 19, or are retired adults.
Regional coordinators stay in close contact with puppy-raiser families. They are available for
assistance at all times.
A puppy lives with a puppy-raiser for about 15 months, until its old enough to begin its formal training
at the Seeing Eye.
A puppy-raiser’s job is to provide the love and gentle guidance that teaches the puppy to be
comfortable and confident in the many types of social settings it will encounter as a working dog (for
example in cars, stores, public transportation, and other public accommodations).
Puppy-raisers teach the dogs simple commands. Later, Seeing Eye instructors teach the dog how to
guide a blind person.
Puppy-raisers attend regular club meetings that provide great socialization experience for pups and
people.
Someone needs to be home for most of the day to meet the puppy’s needs.
The Seeing Eye covers the cost of veterinary care and boarding. They also provide a quarterly
allotment to defray the cost of food.
The late Miss Evelyn Henderson holds the record for puppy raising: over 200 between 1951 and 1978.
She also raised 15 foster children, each of whom was required to raise a pup. There were as many as a
dozen puppies at one time in her home. In 1978, she received one of The Seeing Eye’s highest honors,
the Buddy Award in recognition of her work. The book Mine for a Year tells the story of one of her
foster sons and his puppy.
New puppy-raisers are always welcome. For information, call your county extension office or The
Seeing Eye at (973) 539-4425
Students receiving Seeing Eye dogs pay $150 for a first dog, $50 for a subsequent dog. This includes
the cost of the dog and its initial equipment, training with the dog, room and board while at
Morristown, round-trip transportation from anywhere in the U.S. or Canada, and any follow-up
services a graduate may need once he/she returns home. Fees are unchanged since 1929.
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The average working life of a Seeing Eye dog is 10 years. A retired dog may be kept as a pet, given to
a friend or relative as a pet, or returned to The Seeing Eye, where it will be placed in an adoptive
home.
The Mission of The Seeing Eye is to enhance the independence, dignity, and self-confidence of blind
people through the use of Seeing Eye dogs.
It is a philanthropy supported by contributions, trusts and bequests, and receives no government aid.
The Seeing Eye is located in Morristown, New Jersey. There is no other location. Only dogs trained at
this school are properly called Seeing Eye dogs, which is a registered trademark name. The generic
term for dogs that guide people who are blind is “dog guide”.
There are 12 accredited schools in the United States. Schools are accredited by meeting standards of
the International Guide Dog Foundation
The Seeing Eye will send its newsletter, general information brochure, annual report, or other material
free on request.
Frequently Asked Questions
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Q. How is The Seeing Eye supported?
A. The Seeing Eye is a philanthropy. It receives contributions from individuals, corporations, and foundations.
Because all administrative and fundraising expenses are covered by the endowment, every dollar of every
donation goes to support the school’s programs. Our endowment ensures that The Seeing Eye will endure
into the future and that those who want Seeing Eye dogs always will be able to obtain them.
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Q. How many students does The Seeing Eye train each year?
A. The school trains nearly 300 students a year. Many are returning to obtain their second, third, or fourth
dogs. There are 12 annual classes of about 24 students each.
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Q. How much does it cost a blind person to obtain a Seeing Eye dog?
A. A blind person is asked to assume an obligation of $150 for his/her first visit, and $50 for each visit
thereafter. This fee, unchanged since the school was founded in 1929, represents dignity and self-respect to
the student, and ownership of the dog. No one has ever been denied a Seeing Eye dog for lack of funds. This
payment, sometimes made in monthly installments, covers a fraction of the actual total cost.
The cost to The Seeing Eye for every dog/owner partnership is about $50,000. This includes breeding,
puppy raising, and training one dog to be matched with a person. Also included is the student’s round-trip
transportation from anywhere in the U.S. or Canada, room and board during the 20-to-27 day training period
at the school, the dog, its initial equipment, the student’s instruction with the dog, and any follow-up services
the graduate may need once he/she returns home and for the life of the partnership.
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Q. Can individuals, clubs, or organizations sponsor a Seeing Eye dog for a blind person?
A. No. As a philanthropy, The Seeing Eye provides dog guides to blind people who seek greater independence
and mobility. Sponsoring a dog for someone robs that person of independence by making him or her feel
obligated or dependent on the sponsor. The Seeing Eye regards those who choose to come here with
dignity and self-respect, and encourages independence. Therefore, all gifts support the entire program.
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Q. What breeds of dogs are used?
A. The Seeing Eye breeds German Shepherds, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, and crosses at its
breeding station in Chester, NJ. Occasionally, Boxers are obtained by purchase or gift.
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Q. Are only female dogs used?
A. Due to the success of our breeding program, we use both neutered male and female dogs. It is not its sex
that determines a dog’s suitability for guide work, but disposition, intelligence and good health.
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Q. How long does it take to train a dog?
A. Training a Seeing Eye dog is a multi-step process. When the dog is about seven weeks old, it’s placed in
the home of a volunteer puppy raiser, where it’s taught basic obedience and socialization, and given lots of
love. After about 15 months, the dog returns to The Seeing Eye and begins a four-month course with a
sighted instructor. When the dog passes this phase, it’s matched with a blind person. Person and dog then
train together under the supervision of the instructor. Someone coming to The Seeing Eye for the first time
participates in a 27-day training session; someone returning for a second or subsequent dog participates in
a 20-day session.
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Q. What is the average working life of a Seeing Eye dog? What happens to the dogs when they get old?
What happens to the dogs when their owners die?
A. The average working life of a Seeing Eye dog is 10 years. However, many have worked to the ages of 12,
13, and longer. A retired Seeing Eye dog may be kept as a pet, given to a friend or relative as a pet, or
returned to The Seeing Eye, which will find it a suitable home. If the owner dies, the dog is sometimes
placed with a new owner. Sometimes it remains with the family, depending on its age and other factors.
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Q. Do the dogs have any free time?
A. A dog keeps the same work schedule as its owner. At home, it’s free to relax or play. Out of harness, it’s
like any other dog, and sometimes may even get into mischief. When the harness is put on it eagerly
accepts it, becoming more serious and responsible.
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Q. Can I train dogs for the Seeing Eye?
A. New volunteer puppy-raisers who live in New Jersey, parts of Pennsylvania, Delaware and Maryland are
always welcome. Call The Seeing Eye or your county extension office for details.
Staff instructors are full-time employees. They have college degrees in education, psychology, or related
fields, and have successfully completed The Seeing Eye three-year apprenticeship program. They relate
equally well to dogs and people and are physically fit, since their job is physically demanding and involves
working outdoors in all weather. Call the manager of human resources at The Seeing Eye for information.
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Q. What is the puppy-raising program?
A. In 1942, The Seeing Eye, in conjunction with 4-H clubs of New Jersey, established its puppy-raising
program. Since then, 4-H children and their families have raised Seeing Eye puppies during the first year
of the pups’ lives. Due to the increased demand for puppy-raisers, the program is growing. When the
puppies are about seven weeks old, they leave the breeding station to live with their families for about a
year, until they are old enough to begin their formal training. There are equal amount of children and adults
raising puppies for us. The responsibles involved in raising a puppy are; providing affection, discipline,
and exposure to the kinds of experiences it will encounter as a working dog.
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Q. How does a dog know when to cross the street?
A. Dogs are color-blind and can’t read traffic lights. The dog’s owner learns to judge the movement of traffic
by its sounds. At the appropriate time, he/she will command the dog to move forward. The dog will not
carry out the command until it is safe to do so. This is called intelligent disobedience.
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Q. How does a dog know where a blind person wants to go?
A. Blind people generally know their own communities and can direct their dogs wherever they want to with
the simple commands left, right, or forward. In a new location, blind men and women, like sighted people,
ask for directions and communicate them to the dog by using the proper command.
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Q. What is the greatest difficulty dog guide users encounter?
A. Public interference. For anyone to take hold of a blind person’s arm, or the dog’s harness, or otherwise
distract the dog or its owner is not only a shocking experience, but akin to grabbing the steering wheel of a
moving car away from its driver. If you think a dog guide user needs assistance, calmly ask if he or she
would like help. The person can accept or decline your offer.
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Q. Will a dog defend a blind person who is in danger?
A. Seeing Eye dogs are dog guides, not guard dogs. The Seeing Eye breeds its dogs for good temperament,
intelligence, stability, gentleness, and good health. However, given the special relationship that develops
between the dog and master from many years of working and living together, we can’t predict what the dog
would do. Common sense says it probably would protect its master.
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Q. Are there other dog guide schools?
A. In addition to the U.S., many foreign countries have dog guide schools. There are 12in this country, but
there is only one Seeing Eye, in Morristown, New Jersey. It has no branches. Only dogs obtained there are
properly called Seeing Eye dogs. The generic term for dogs trained by other schools is dog guide.
Founded in 1929, The Seeing Eye is legally registered in the U.S. and Canada. The premier dog guide school
in North America, it has matched nearly 15,000 Seeing Eye dogs with blind people from all 50 states, the
District of Columbia, Puerto Rico, and Canada.
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Q. Other than blindness, are there special qualifications to obtain a Seeing Eye dog?
A. A person must be at least 16 years old, in good general health, and have an active enough lifestyle to need a
Seeing Eye dog.
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Seeing Eye Project Members
The information in this complete study guide is for the State 4-H Quiz Bowl ONLY.
You should refer to your Seeing Eye Puppy Project Manual for specifics about your pups.
(for example, the grooming section states to clean the ears with mineral oil and water,
The Seeing Eye prefers the use of ear cleaning solution).
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More Facts about Seeing Eye
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founding in 1929, The Seeing Eye has matched about 14,700 specially-bred and trained dog guides
with blind people throughout the United States and Canada.
•About 1800 active graduates of The Seeing Eye lead productive, independent lives with Seeing Eye® dogs at
their sides. They include students, teachers, lawyers, musicians, factory workers, x-ray technicians, clergy,
computer programmers, social workers, psychologists, writers, homemakers and volunteers.
•The Seeing Eye is the oldest dog guide school in America. It is a philanthropic organization whose primary
purpose is to help blind adults achieve mobility through the use of properly trained dog guides.
•In addition to breeding German shepherds, Labrador retrievers and golden retrievers, The Seeing Eye
occasionally obtains boxers. The puppies are raised by volunteer families through The Seeing Eye Puppy
Raising/4-H Program. Pups live with the families for about 16 to 18 months, and then return to The Seeing
Eye to enter training. During that time, The Seeing Eye pays all veterinary costs plus a quarterly allowance
toward food costs.
•It takes about 16 weeks to train a dog. Instructors (who are sighted) train 10 at a time. They use a system of
affectionate rewards and gentle corrections to teach each dog both obedience and intelligent disobedience to disregard a command if it would lead to danger.
•About 300 people each year come to the Morristown campus of The Seeing Eye to be matched with a dog
guide. They live with their dogs in The Seeing Eye student residence for the 20 to 27 days it takes for them
to learn to become a safe and effective working team.
•Those in need of a Seeing Eye dog must be over 16 and in good health. The Seeing Eye does not discriminate
on the basis of race, color, creed, or economic status.
•Students are asked to pay $150 for their first visit to the Seeing Eye, and $50 for each subsequent visit. This
is applied toward the cost of the dog and its initial equipment, round-trip transportation from anywhere in
the U.S. or Canada, and meals and lodging during the training period. The actual cost to breed, raise and
train a dog and instruct a student in its use is about $50,000 per person/dog team. The difference is made up
through philanthropic gifts to The Seeing Eye. No one has ever been denied a Seeing Eye dog because of
inability to pay.
•The Seeing Eye was founded by Dorothy Harrison Eustis and Morris Frank, the first blind person to use a
dog guide, in Nashville, Tennessee. It moved to Morris County, N.J. in 1931 and has been at its present
Washington Valley Road location since 1965. There are no branches.
•As a philanthropy that receives no government aid of any kind, The Seeing Eye relies on contributions, trust
income, bequests and endowment earnings. It welcomes public interest and will send it quarterly newsletter,
The Seeing Eye Guide, in print, Braille, audiotape, or email on request.
•Blind people may apply directly to The Seeing Eye, Inc., PO Box 375, Morristown, NJ 07963-0375, or call
(973)539-4425. Preliminary information and application forms are sent on request.
The Seeing Eye ® is a registered trademark of dog guides of The Seeing Eye
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Canine Good Citizen Testing
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Taken from the AKC Canine Good Citizen Testing Participant's Handbook,
found at: http://www.AKC.org/pdfs/cgc/GK9GC2.pdf
The Canine Good Citizen Program ("CGC") is administered by the American Kennel Club. It’s
purpose is to ensure that our dogs become respected members of our community through training them
to act well behaved in the home, in public and with other dogs.
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All testing for the CGC is performed on a leather or fabric leash, with the dog wearing a well fitting
buckle or slip collar made of leather, fabric or chain. All handlers upon check in must sign the
Responsible Dog Owner's Pledge, stating that the dog gets routine
veterinary care. No formal score is given for the CGC other than a pass or fail. In order to earn the
CGC designation a dog must pass all ten items of the test.
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The complete CGC test is made up of the following ten items:
Accepting a Friendly Stranger, Sitting Politely for Petting, Appearance and Grooming, Out for a Walk
(Walking on a Loose Leash), Walking Through a Crowd, Sit, Down on Command and Stay in Place,
Coming When Called, Reaction to Another Dog, Reaction to Distractions, Supervised Separation.
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The testing proceeds as follows:
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#1 Accepting a Friendly Stranger. The evaluator walks up to dog and handler, greets handler in a
friendly manner, then shakes hands with handler and exchanges pleasantries. The dog must show no
signs of resentment or shyness and must not break position or approach the evaluator.
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#2 Sitting Politely for Petting. The dog can sit on either side of the handler as the evaluator pets the
dog on the head and body only. Then handler may talk to the dog throughout the exercise and the dog
may stand in place once petting begins but must not show shyness or resentment.
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#3 Appearance and Grooming. The evaluator inspects the dog for signs of good health and then, using
a grooming tool provided by the handler, will softly comb or brush the dog and gently pick up each
front foot. The dog does not have to hold a specific position but must show tolerance inspection and
grooming.
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#4 Out for a walk. The dog may be on either side of the handler but it's behavior should leave no
doubt that the dog is attentive and responsive to the handler's movements and changes of direction.
The team will be required to perform a left turn, right turn, about turn, and stop in between and at the
end of the exercise.
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#5 Walking Through a Crowd. The dog and handler move around at least three people of different
appearances. The dog should move politely and under control. The dog may show some interest in
strangers but will continue to walk with handler in a well behaved manner.
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#6 Sit and Down on Command / Stay in Place. The dog's leash is replaced with a twenty foot line.
The handler makes the dog sit and then down. The handler may use reasonable time multiple
commnds and a light touch to instruct the dog but may not force the dog into position. On the
evaluator's instruction, the handler tells the dog to stay walks forward, to the end of the line, turns
around and returns to the dog, all at a natural pace. The dog must remain in the spot it was left until
the evaluator instructs the handler to release it.
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#7 Coming When Called. The handler walks ten feet from the dog, turns to face the dog and calls it.
The handler may use the stay or wait commands, or may simply walk away without giving the dog
specific instructions. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come while the evaluator
provides mild distractions.
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#8 Reaction to Another Dog. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance, stop,
shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dogs should show no more than a casual interest in each
other or the other handler, nor approach either.
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#9 Reaction to Distractions. This item demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced
with common distracting situations. Two of the following distractions are used: A person with
crutches, wheelchair or walker; sudden open/closing of a door, dropping a loud item farther than five
feet from the dog, a jogger, a person pushing a cart or carte dolly, a person on a bike. The dog can
express natural interest or be slightly startled, but should not panic, run away, bark or show
aggressiveness.
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#10 Supervised Separation. The evaluator offers to hold the dog, and the handler hands the leash to
the evaluator and goes out of sight for three minutes. The handler may give the dog commands to
down or sit and stay, but the dog does not have to maintain it's position.
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The dog must maintain it's training and manners and may not continually bark, whine or pace
unnecessarily, or show anything more than mild agitation.
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Advanced Level Community Canine Title
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Giving responsible dog owners a whole new level of achievement for their dogs, the American
Kennel Club® (AKC®) has developed a new advanced level title – AKC Community Canine – as
part of the Canine Good Citizen® (CGC®) training program. Since 1989, the CGC program has
rewarded more than 600,000 dogs and their owners who have passed the test, which recognizes
the dogs’ good manners at home and in the community.
With the introduction of AKC Community Canine, the AKC's CGC program now provides a
comprehensive three- level training program for you and your dog. Beginning with AKC S.T.A.R.
Puppy, progressing to Canine Good Citizen and now to AKC Community Canine, the CGC program
trains dogs through all stages of life to be well behaved in society.
“AKC Community Canine expands on CGC skills and lays the beginning foundation for obedience,
rally and therapy dog work,” Director of the Canine Good Citizen program Mary Burch, PhD, said.
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“While Canine Good Citizen tests are simulations of real world skills, the goal of AKC Community
Canine is to test the dog’s abilities in a natural setting. Rather than the test being administered in a
ring, certain elements will involve the dog walking through a real crowd, whether at a dog show or
on a busy sidewalk.”
As with CGC, AKC Community Canine requires a 10-step test of skills that dogs must pass to earn
the official AKC Community Canine title:
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Dog sits or lies down and waits under control
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Walks on a loose leash in a natural situation (not in a ring) and does not pull
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Walks on a loose leash through a crowd
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Dog walks past distraction dogs present and does not pull
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Sit-stay in small group (3 other people with dogs)
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Dog allows person who is carrying something to approach and pet it
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Dog walks by food and follows owner instructions, “Leave it”
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Down or sit stay-distance (owner’s choice)
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Recall (coming when called) with distractions present
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Dog will enter/exit a doorway or passageway with owner and remain under control
Eligible dogs for the AKC Community Canine title must have a CGC certificate or title on record at
AKC and must have an AKC number (AKC registration number, PAL number, or AKC Canine
Partners number). Dogs passing the AKC Community Canine test will earn the “CGCA” (advanced
CGC) title.
Instructors can learn more about the program and begin training their students on AKC Community
Canine skills by visiting the AKC Community Canine page. AKC Community Canine testing will be
administered by approved AKC CGC evaluators nationwide beginning in October, 2013
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AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy Program
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AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy Program is the AKC program designed to get puppies and their owners off to a great
start. AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy requires that owners attend a basic training course with their puppies. All dogs
need the necessary components of the program including Socialization, Training, Activity, and a Responsible
owner.
Evaluators for AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy must be AKC Approved Canine Good Citizen Evaluators. CGC
Evaluators are automatically approved to conduct AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy testing.
One major difference in the AKC Canine Good Citizen Test and AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy is that CGC
Evaluators may give the CGCSM test to handlers and dogs they have not trained in classes.
AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy is an owner incentive program designed to get owners to attend a basic training class
with their puppies. Unlike the CGC Test, the AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy Test is given only at the conclusion of a
training course that is at least 6 weeks long. The course may be called AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy, or it may simply
be the evaluator’s puppy or basic training class.
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AKC Therapy Dog Title
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The purpose of this program is to recognize AKC dogs and their owners who have given their time and
helped people by volunteering as a therapy dog and owner team.
The AKC Therapy Dog™ program awards an official AKC title awarded to dogs who have worked to
improve the lives of the people they have visited.
The AKC Therapy Dog title (THD) can be earned by dogs who have been certified by AKC
recognized therapy dog organizations and have performed 50 or more community visits.
AKC does not certify therapy dogs; the certification and training is done by qualified therapy dog
organizations. The certification organizations are the experts in this area and their efforts should be
acknowledged and appreciated.
AKC has received frequent, ongoing requests from dog owners who participate in therapy work to
"acknowledge the great work our dogs are doing." Many of our constituents are understandably proud of their
dogs.
Earning an AKC Therapy Dog title builds on the skills taught in the AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy® and
Canine Good Citizen® programs which creates a sound and friendly temperament needed by a successful
therapy dog.
Therapy dogs are dogs who go with their owners to volunteer in settings such as schools, hospitals,
and nursing homes.
From working with a child who is learning to read to visiting a senior in assisted living, therapy dogs
and their owners work together as a team to improve the lives of other people.
Therapy dogs are not service dogs. Service dogs are dogs who are specially trained to perform specific
tasks to help a person who has a disability. An example of a service dog is a dog who guides an owner who is
blind, or a dog who assists someone who has a physical disability. Service dogs stay with their person and
have special access privileges in public places such as on planes, restaurants, etc. Therapy dogs, the dogs who
will be earning the AKC Therapy Dog™ title, do not have the same special access as service dogs.
It is unethical to attempt to pass off a therapy dog as a service dog for purposes such as flying on a
plane or being admitted to a restaurant.
Since the 1980’s, there have been significant advances in the field of animal assisted therapy and the
use of therapy dogs. Organized therapy dog groups provide educational material to volunteers, they screen
both volunteers and dogs, and they provide liability insurance for when the dog and handler are volunteering
in a therapy setting.
Therapy dog certification organizations are the experts in this field. It is their dedication that has
organized and advanced the work of therapy dogs and their efforts should be acknowledged and appreciated.
The following certification organizations are recognized by the AKC. A dog must be certified by one of these
organizations to be eligible to receive the AKC Therapy Dog title.
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There is a list of of Therapy dog Groups that do certify Therapy dogs at http://www.akc.org/
akctherapydog/organizations.cfm
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AKC Obedience
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• Demonstrating the usefulness of a dog as a companion to humankind, AKC Obedience is a sport with rules,
regulations, judges, conditioning, training, placements and prizes.
• Dog and handler teams are judged on how closely they match the judge's mental picture of a theoretically
perfect performance as they execute a series of specified exercises.
• Accuracy and precision are essential, but the natural movement of the handler and the willingness and
enjoyment of the dog are very important. Dogs are required to heel on the left side of the handler.
• You must be registered with the AKC to compete in AKC Obedience Trials
• A dog that is blind, deaf or has been changed in appearance for cosmetic reasons (other than changes
customarily approved for its breed) cannot compete in any AKC Obedience Trial
• Dogs must be 6 months or older to be shown in an AKC Obedience Trial. No dog in season may be shown
at an AKC Obedience or Rally Trial or at a 4H event.
• AKC recognizes three different kinds of obedience classes: regular (Novice, Open, and Utility), optional
titling (Beginner Novice and others), and non-regular (Pre-Novice and others)
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Training and Warm-up on the Show Grounds
• There will be no intensive or abusive training of the dogs on the grounds or premises at an AKC licensed or
member obedience trial or sanctioned match.
• All dogs must be kept on a leash except when in the obedience ring, warm-up ring or exercise area and must
be brought into and taken out of the ring on leash. Dogs must be kept on leash in the ring when brought in to
receive awards and when waiting in the ring before and after the group exercises.
• The leash must be made of fabric or leather and need only be long enough to provide adequate slack during
the Heel on Leash exercise, except in Pre-Novice and Beginner Novice where they should be 6 feet long.
• All dogs in the obedience ring must wear a properly fitted collar approved by the judge. No special training
collars, such as electronic collars or prong collars will be permitted. Nothing may be hanging from the
dog’s collar.
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Performance of Obedience Exercises in General
Dogs are required to heel on the left side of the handler. The “heel position” means the dog is at the
handler’s left side, with the dog’s shoulders about level with the handler’s legs, and facing the same direction
as the handler. When heeling in competition, the judge tells the handler “Forward” but the verbal command
used by the handler to the dog is usually “Heel.” In a Recall exercise, the dog is required to “sit front” (sit
directly in front of the handler) after the “Come” command is given, and should not “finish” (return to the
heel position) unless the handler gives the command to do so.
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Qualifying Performance in Obedience
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A qualifying score indicates that the dog has performed all the required exercises according to AKC
Obedience Regulations in a regular or optional titling class and justifies the awarding of the obedience title. A
perfect score in any class is 200 points. To receive a qualifying score, a dog must earn at least 170 points and
more than 50% of the points for each exercise. Committing a Non-Qualifying error in any exercise means the
dog cannot receive a qualifying score. All dogs that have received a qualifying score receive a dark green
ribbon to indicate that they have earned a “leg” or qualifying score toward their title. To earn a title, a dog
must receive 3 qualifying scores from 2 different judges
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Obedience Classes
Beginner Novice Class - (AKC optional titling class. Title awarded: Beginner Novice, BN) This is the only
obedience class which uses Rally signs, instead of the judge’s verbal directions, to direct the entrants through
the heeling pattern. Also, unlike other obedience classes, the handler is permitted to offer verbal
encouragement to the dog once without penalty during each exercise when the dog is moving. Exercises:
Heel on Leash, Figure 8, Sit for Exam, Sit Stay (leash remains attached to collar, but no one holds the leash
while the handler walks around the ring), Recall (leash off, distance approx. 25 feet).
Pre-Novice (AKC non-regular class) The Pre-Novice class is for dogs that have not received 3 qualifying
scores in a Novice class. All exercises are scored as in the Novice class, except the dogs perform all exercises
on leash. Exercises: Heel on Leash, Figure 8, Stand for Examination, Recall, Long Sit (1 min), Long Down (3
min).
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Novice Class. the novice A class shall be for dogs that have not won the CD title. Judged exercises include
Heel on Leash and Figure 8, Heel Free, Stand for Examination, Recall, Long Sit (1 min), Long Down (3 min).
Graduate Novice (AKC optional titling class. Title awarded: Graduate Novice, GN) Exercises: Heel on
Leash and Figure 8 off leash, Drop on Recall, Dumbbell Recall, Recall over High Jump, Recall over Broad
Jump, Long Down (3 min, handler out of sight).
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Open (AKC regular class. Title awarded: Companion Dog Excellent, CDX) Exercises: Heel Free and Figure
8, Drop on Recall, Retrieve on the Flat, Retrieve over High Jump, Broad Jump, Long Sit (3 min), Long Down
(5 min).
Utility Class
Utility (AKC regular class. Title awarded: Utility Dog, UD) This is the most difficult AKC regular
obedience class. Exercises: Signal Exercise, Scent Discrimination, Directed Retrieve, Moving Stand and
Examination, Directed Jumping.
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For the most complete list of AKC obedience classes, regulations, and scoring
chapters 1 - 15 of the AKC Obedience regulations on line or in the printed rule book
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All dogs that have received a qualifying score in their class receive a dark green ribbon to indicate that they
have earned a "leg," or qualifying score toward their title.
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Definitions
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Obedience implies compliance with the direction or command given by the handler
Brisk, briskly — keenly alive, alert, energetic
Command — verbal order from handler to dog
Crowding — a dog so close to the handler as to interfere with the handler’s freedom of motion
Verbal Command – verbal order from handler to dog
Hand Signal – nonverbal direction from the handler to dog
Leg – a term that is used frequently for a qualifying score
Mouthing — when a dog chews or rolls the dumbbell in its mouth unnecessarily
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4-H Obedience
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NJ 4-H uses the AKC obedience classes and regulations, but adds the following classes
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Intermediate Novice (4-H class only) Intermediate Novice is identical to Pre-Novice, except that all
exercises are performed off-lead except for the Heel and Figure 8.
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Advanced Novice (4-H class only) This class was created for 4-H members whose dogs had perfected the
Novice class skills but were not ready to face the considerable challenges of Graduate Novice. Exercises:
Heel on Lead, Stand for Exam and Call Dog, Heel Free and Figure 8, Drop on Recall, Long Sit (3 min), Long
Down (5 min, handler out of sight).
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New Jersey State Dog Show
Obedience Guidelines
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NOTE: These Rules and Regulations are in effect for the 2013 Rutgers Day State Dog Show
and strongly recommended to be followed at the County level.
!Introduction
The New Jersey 4-H Dog Program follows the American Kennel Club’s (AKC) descriptions for
obedience class exercises. The descriptions are taken from AKC’s Obedience Regulations and used
with permission from AKC. Refer to http://www.akc.org/events/obedience/index.cfm for additional
information.
!Purpose of 4-H Obedience Competition
The purpose of obedience is to demonstrate the dog’s usefulness as a companion. Youth train their
dogs to behave in the home, in public places and in the presence of other dogs in a manner that will
reflect credit in the sport of obedience at all times and under all conditions. 4-H obedience
competition demonstrates the handler’s ability to work as a team with his/her 4-H dog project,
following specified routines in the obedience ring and emphasizing the usefulness of his/her dog as a
companion. All participants should be guided by the principles of good sportsmanship both in and out
of the ring. All exhibitors in a class are required to perform the same exercises in the same manner so
that the quality of the performances may be scored.
!GENERAL
Ring Size
Obedience rings should be rectangular in shape. The recommended size for ring is about 40 x 50 feet
for all obedience classes. The Novice and Advanced Novice ring should not be less than 30 x 40
feet. For Graduate Novice and Advanced Novice classes, the show committee is responsible for
providing an appropriate place, approved by the judge, for the handlers to go completely out of sight
of their dogs.
!Handler’s Appearance
Exhibitors should be neat, clean, and well-groomed in appearance. They should wear clothing that is
comfortable to handle in and appropriate for dog shows. Clothing should not distract, limit or hinder
the judge’s view of the dog. Handlers appearance should be designed to show off the dog and
performance of dog and handler as a team. Any outfit that draws undue attention to the handler
alone should be avoided.
It is recommended that youth with long hair should tie it back to keep it from interfering with handling
or the judge’s view.
Recommended attire for all Obedience and Rally classes includes slacks, dressy shorts, skorts,
skirts, capri or crop pants, colored dress jeans, collared blouses and shirts, polo shirts, or similar
attire as would apply to your school dress code, closed-toe shoes, rubber- soled shoes, flats, and
similar type footwear.
Inappropriate clothing includes clothing that is too tight or too revealing, such as short skirts, short
shorts, tank tops, halter tops, spaghetti straps, low cut blouses or shirts, shorts hanging too low on
the waist, clothing with holes or tears in the fabric, torn jeans of any kind, or other similar types of
clothing. Do not wear shirts with distracting or offensive wording or designs.. Exhibitors dressed
inappropriately will not be allowed in the show ring at judges or leaders discretion
Dog’s Appearance
Dogs must be clean, well brushed and in good physical condition appropriate for the dog’s age..
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Hair in Dog’s Eyes
Any dog whose hair surrounding the eyes, ears, or beard interferes with its performance may have its
hair tied back with elastic bands or small plain barrettes.
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!EQUIPMENT
!Collars
Obedience collars include well-fitting plain buckle or quick release collars, martingale collars with
three rings, or slip collars of an appropriate single length of leather, fabric or chain with two rings, one
on each end. Head halters, fancy collars, harnesses, studded collars, pinch collars, collars with
prongs or spikes on inside or outside, electronic collars, or any other special training collars, or collars
that are either too tight or so large that they hang down unreasonably in front of the dogs are not
permitted. Remove all hanging tags. Nothing may be hanging from the dog’s collar.
!Leashes
Leashes may be of fabric or leather and must be 6 feet in length for Beginner Novice and Pre-Novice
classes. For other classes, the leash need be only of sufficient length to provide adequate slack in the
heel on leash exercise. Chain leashes are not acceptable.
All dogs must be kept on leash except when in the obedience ring or exercise area, and must be
brought into and taken out of the ring on leash. Dogs must be kept on leash in the ring when brought
in to receive awards, and when waiting before and after the group exercises. Unless designated
otherwise, the handler will leave the leash on the judge’s table between the individual exercises and
during all exercises performed off leash.
!Dumbbells
Dumbbells must be made either of: (1) one or more solid pieces of wood or of (2) non-wooden
material similar in size, shape and weight to a wooden dumbbell. Metal dumbbells are not permitted.
Dumbbells will not be hollowed out. They may be unfinished, coated with a clear finish, or may be any
color. They may not have decorations or attachments, but may bear an inconspicuous mark for
identification. The size of the dumbbell will be proportionate to the size of the dog. The judge must
approve the dumbbell.
Bait
Food, treats, or toys are not permitted in the show ring.
!DEFINITIONS AND JUDGIING CRITERIA
!Heel Position
The heel position, as defined in these guidelines, applies whether the dog is sitting, standing, lying
down, or moving at a heel. The dog should be at the handler’s left side straight in line with the
direction the handler is facing. The area from the dog’s head to shoulder is to be in line with the
handler’s left hip. The dog should be close to the handler, without crowding, so the handler has
freedom of motion at all times. The dog should stop when the handler stops, and sit quietly until the
handler gives him a command to move. When beginning the heel, the handler steps off with his/her
left foot. This is not considered an extra command.
!Hands
Follow one of these options in all exercises where the dog is required to heel free: (1) when the
handler is moving, the arms and hands must move naturally at the sides and must hang naturally at
the sides when stopped; or (2) the right hand and arm must move naturally at the side, while the left
hand must be held against the front of the body, centered at the waist, with the left forearm carried
against the body. In either of the above circumstances, the handler’s hands and arms may be
adjusted during the fast part of an exercise in order to maintain balance.
In any exercise requiring the dog to sit in front, the handler’s arms and hands must hang naturally at
his/her sides until the dog has sat in front.
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!Commands and Signals
When the exercise allows for either a single command or signal may be given, not both. Handlers
will be penalized for giving extra commands or signals, or for giving a command and signal
simultaneously.
When the rules say “command and/or signal,” the handler may give either a command or a signal,
or both a command and signal simultaneously. When a signal is permitted, it must be a single gesture
with one arm and hand only. The arm and hand must then be immediately returned to a natural
position.
Delay in following a judge’s order to give a command or signal will be penalized unless the judge
directs the delay.
Signaling a correction to a dog will be penalized.
Signals must be inaudible and the handler must not touch the dog. Any unusual motion or noise may
be considered a signal. Positioning of the arms and hands, and movements of the head and/or body
that aid the dog are considered additional signals, with the following exception: the handler may bend
the body and knees to bring his/her hand level with the dog’s eyes while giving a signal to a dog in
heel position.
The signal for downing a dog may be given either with the arm raised or with a down swing of the
arm. Any pause in holding the arm upright followed by a down swing of the arm will be considered an
additional signal.
Whistling of any kind is prohibited.
The dog’s name may be used once immediately before any verbal command, or before a verbal
command and signal when these rules allow command and/or signal. The handler is not to use the
dog’s name with any signal not given simultaneously with a verbal command. The dog’s name, when
given immediately before a verbal command, will not be considered as an additional command, but a
dog that responds to its name without waiting for the verbal command will be scored as having
anticipated the command. The dog should never anticipate the handler’s directions, but wait for the
appropriate commands and/or signals. Moving forward at the heel without any command or signal
other than the natural forward movement of the handler’s body will not be considered anticipation.
Loud commands by handlers to their dogs create a poor impression of obedience and should be
avoided. Shouting is not necessary, even in a noisy place, if the dog is properly trained to respond to
a normal tone of voice. Commands that the judge deems as excessively loud will be substantially
penalized.
!Additional Commands or Signals
If a handler gives an additional command or signal not permitted by these Regulations, a maximum
point deduction will be made . (In 4-H, a maximum point deduction means that at least one-half of the
total points for that exercise in which the dog leaves the ring while performing) . This includes giving
a signal or command when none is permitted or using the dog’s name with a permitted signal but
without a permitted command.
!Handling Between Exercises
When off leash in the Novice classes, the dog may be guided gently between exercises. No other
physical guidance is permitted. In the Graduate Novice, a substantial point deduction will be taken for
a dog that is physically guided at any time or that is not controllable.
!Praise
Praise and petting are encouraged and allowed between and after exercises. However, points will be
deducted from the total score for a dog that is not under reasonable control while being praised.
There will be a substantial penalty for any dog that is picked up or carried at any time in the
obedience ring.
!Interference and Double Handling
Assistance, interference, or attempts to control a dog from outside the ring is not permitted. A judge
who is aware of such double handling or interference must substantially penalize the dog.
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Leaving the Ring
A dog leaving the ring between exercises shall receive a 10-point deduction. A dog leaving the ring
during an exercise shall receive a maximum point deduction will be deducted.
!Fouling the Ring
The exhibitor and his/her dog will be excused from the ring.
Fouling includes urine, feces or vomit.
Training, Disciplining, and Abuse in the Ring
The judge will not permit any handler to use excessive verbal commands, to move toward the dog to
correct it, or to practice any exercise in the ring at any time. A dog whose handler disciplines it in the
ring will be excused from further competition in the class. An exhibitor abusing a dog in the ring will be
disqualified from the class, and may be directed to leave the showgrounds.
Misbehavior
Any display of fear or nervousness by the dog or any uncontrolled behavior such as barking, running
away from its handler, etc. will be penalized according to the seriousness of the misbehavior, whether
it occurs during or between an exercise or before or after judging. The judge may excuse the dog
from further competition in the class.
Any dog that snaps, attempts to attack or attacks any person or dog while in the ring will be excused
or disqualified from the ring. Any dog that appears dangerous to other dogs in the ring will be
excused.
Any dog displaying fearful, aggressive, threatening, unsafe or uncontrollable behavior at anytime in
the Dog Show area or on the showgrounds may be excused from competition and/or removed from
the show grounds.
!Excusals
Judges MUST excuse or disqualify a dog from the ring that snaps, attempts to attack or attacks any
person or dog in the ring, or appears dangerous to other dogs. If a judge determines that a bitch in
the ring is in season or appears to be so attractive to males as to be a disturbing element, the bitch is
excused. The judge shall not obtain the opinion of the health check officials. Judges should also
excuse or disqualify a handler for abusing a dog in the ring or for displaying unsportsmanlike conduct.
!Levels and Classes
!Level refers to an obedience category, such as Novice. Class refers to the two classes within an
obedience category. The letters “A” and “B” refer to the experience of the youth and dog. “A”
classes are for first-year youth and first-year dogs with NO experience. “A” classes can never be
repeated by the same youth, regardless of what dog is shown. “A” classes can never be repeated by
the same dog, regardless of what youth shows that dog. “B” classes can be repeated by the same
youth regardless of what dog is shown, and by the same dog, regardless of who shows that dog,
provided the youth and/or dog are not the class winners. If/when a youth and/or dog wins first place in
a “B” class, the youth and dog must move to the next level. A dog must move to a higher level, once
that dog begins performing at that higher level.
Beginner Novice
Youth may show one project dog in Beginner Novice OR Pre-Novice A or B, decided upon according
to skill level and preference. A youth cannot show in both Beginner Novice and Pre-Novice A in the
same year. A dog cannot show in both Beginner Novice and Pre-Novice A in the same year.
Exhibitors have the option of moving back and forth between Beginner Novice and Pre-Novice A until
winning both of these classes or they have experience at the Intermediate Novice level, with the
same dog. Dogs shown in this class cannot show in the Beginner Novice A or Pre Novice A class.
a. Youth may move back and forth between Beginner Novice and Pre-Novice A, from year to year.
b. Once a youth/dog wins Beginner Novice or Pre-Novice 3 times, they may go to the other option or
move up to Pre Novice B or Intermediate Novice.
c. Once/if a youth wins both Beginner Novice and Pre-Novice (not in the same year), they must move
to Intermediate Novice, unless they are showing a different dog that is eligible to show in these
classes.
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d. Once a youth/dog has experience or is showing at the Intermediate Novice level, s/he must move
to the Intermediate Novice level. Once at the Intermediate Novice level, the handler/dog cannot go
back to Beginner Novice or Pre-Novice A or B.
!Pre-Novice Level Information
Youth may show one project dog in Beginner Novice OR Pre-Novice A or B, decided upon according
to skill level and preference.
a. Youth may move back and forth between Beginner Novice and Pre-Novice A or B, from year to
year, until winning first place in one of those classes.
b. Once a youth/dog wins Beginner Novice or Pre-Novice, they may go to the other option or move up
to Intermediate Novice.
c. Once/if a youth wins both Beginner Novice and Pre-Novice (not in the same year), they must move
to Intermediate Novice, unless they are showing a different dog that is eligible to show in these
classes.
d. Once a youth/dog has experience or is showing at the Intermediate Novice level, s/he must move
to the Intermediate Novice level. Once at the Intermediate Novice level, the handler/dog cannot go
back to Beginner Novice or Pre-Novice.
!Beginner Novice Obedience Exercises
Beginner Novice
AKC’s Beginner Novice is the basis for these exercises. Beginner Novice A Beginner Novice
Maximum Score
1. Heel on Leash Heel on Leash 40 points
2. Figure Eight (on leash) Figure Eight (on leash) 40 points
3. Sit for Exam (on leash) Sit for Exam (on leash) 40 points
4. Sit Stay (on leash) Sit Stay (leash attached, on ground) 40 points
5. Recall (on leash) Recall (off leash) 40 points
Heel on Leash
The principal feature of this exercise is the ability of the dog and handler to work as a team. The
orders for this exercise will be “Forward” and “Exercise Finished.” Signs, rather than verbal
commands from the judge, will be used for this exercise. Signs to be used are “Right turn,” “Left turn,”
“About turn,” “Slow,” “Normal,” “Fast” and “Halt/Sit.” “Fast” means that the handler must run, and the
handler and dog must move forward at a noticeably accelerated speed.
Turns will be used only when the handler is moving at a normal speed. Both change of pace signs
must be followed by a normal sign. Turn signs may be placed in any sequence and may be repeated.
Two of each turn sign must be available for the judge’s use. The “Halt/Sit” sign will be used once at
the end of the exercise. The judge should standardize the heeling pattern for all dogs in the class.
The leash may be held in either hand or in both hands, but the hands must be held in a natural
position. Any tightening or jerking of the leash and use of any extra commands and/or signals will be
penalized.
The handler will enter the ring with the dog on a loose leash and stand with the dog sitting in the heel
position. The judge will ask if the handler is ready before giving the order, “Forward.” The handler may
give a command or signal to heel and will walk briskly and naturally with the dog on a loose leash.
The dog should walk close to the handler’s left side without swinging wide, lagging, forging, or
crowding. The dog must not interfere with the handler’s freedom of motion at any time. At the “Halt/
Sit” sign, the handler will stop. The dog shall sit straight and promptly in the heel position without
command or signal. The judge will
order, “Exercise finished” at the completion of this exercise.
A one-time single phrase of praise or encouragement, by the handler to the dog, will be allowed
without penalty. (Good, yes, nice, super, great, and atta boy/girl, are some examples of praise that
would be allowed.) A verbal command to heel at the beginning of the exercise is the only command
allowed during the heeling exercise.
Rally signs may be used. The signs may be placed either flat on the ground or on a stand. The course
should be laid so that the signs are to the right of the handler.
Figure Eight
The principal feature of this exercise is the ability of the dog and handler to work as a team. The
orders for this exercise are: “Forward,” “Halt,” and “Exercise Finished.”
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For the Figure Eight, the handler will stand and the dog will sit in heel position facing the judge,
midway between the two stewards, who will be standing 8 feet apart. The Figure Eight will be
performed on leash; the handler may go around either steward first. After the judge asks, “Are you
ready?” and gives the order, “Forward,” the handler and dog will walk briskly around and between the
two stewards twice. There will be no about turn, fast or slow, but the judge must order at least one
halt during this exercise and another halt at the end. After each halt, it is permissible for the handler to
give a command or signal to heel before moving forward again.
A one-time single phrase of praise or encouragement, by the handler to the dog, will be allowed
without penalty.
Sit For Exam
The principal feature of this exercise is that the dog sits in position before and during the examination
without displaying resentment. Orders are: “Sit your dog and leave when you
are ready,” “Back to your dog” and “Exercise finished.” This exercise is to be performed with the dog
on a 6-foot leash.
On the judge’s order, the handler will command the dog to sit. The handler will then stand with the
dog sitting in the heel position, give the command and/or signal to stay, walk straight forward about 6
feet to the end of the leash, turn and face the dog. The judge will approach the dog from the front.
Using the fingers and palm of one hand, the judge will touch only the dog’s head. On the order “Back
to your dog,” the handler will walk around behind the dog and return to the heel position. The handler
may gather the leash at any time while returning to the dog. The dog must remain sitting until the
judge has said, “Exercise finished.”
Sit Stay – Handler Walk Around the Ring
The principal feature of this exercise is that the dog remains in the sit position.
Orders for this exercise are: “Sit your dog,” “Leave your dog,” and “Exercise finished.”
The handler will stand with the dog sitting in heel position in approximately the center of the ring. Prior
to starting the exercise, the judge will ask if the handler is ready. The leash remains attached to the
dog’s collar and will be dropped/placed on the ground between the dog and the handler. When the
judge gives the order “Sit your dog,” the handler will command and/or signal the dog to sit, if they are
not already sitting. The judge will order “Leave your dog,” and the handler will give a command and/or
signal to stay and then walk across the ring. The handler will then turn either to the right or left as
directed by the judge and walk the perimeter of the ring. Upon completing a full perimeter walk
around the ring, the handler will approach the dog from the front, and proceed to walk around and in
back of the dog to the heel position. Once the handler has returned to heel position, the judge will
give the order “Exercise finished.”
Recall
The leash is removed for this exercise and kept by the handler. After the judge’s command to leave
the dog, the handler will then walk forward, across the ring, and turn to face the dog.
On the judge’s order or signal, the handler will command and/or signal the dog to come. The dog
must come directly, at a brisk trot or gallop, and sit in front near the handler. The dog must be close
enough to its handler so that the handler could touch its head without excessive bending, stretching,
or moving either foot.
After the judge orders “Exercised finished,” the leash is reattached to the dog’s collar.
A one-time single phrase of praise or encouragement while the dog
is coming to the handler will be allowed without penalty. (Good, yes, nice, super, great, atta boy/girl,
are some examples of praise that would
be allowed.)
Caution should be taken to not fidget with the leash but to keep the hands calm and steady.
!Pre-Novice Obedience Exercises
All Pre-Novice exercises will be performed On Leash (leash must be 6 feet in length)
Pre-Novice Exercises Maximum Scores
1. Heel on Leash 45 points
2. Figure 8 on Leash 25 points
3. Stand for Exam on Leash 30 points
4. Recall on Leash 40 points
5. Long Sit on Leash 30 points
6. Long Down on Leash 30 points
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!Heel on Leash
The purpose of this exercise is to demonstrate the ability of the handler and dog to work as a team.
Orders for this exercise are “Forward,” “Halt,” “Right Turn,” “Left Turn,” “About Turn,” “Slow,” “Normal,”
and “Fast.” All “About Turns” will be right about turns. Orders for halts and turns will be given only
when the handler is moving at normal speed. The other orders may be given in any sequence, and
turns and halts may be repeated.
The leash may be held in either hand or in both hands, but the hands must be held in a natural
position. Any tightening or jerking of the leash and use of any extra commands and/or signals will be
penalized.
The handler will enter the ring with the dog on a loose leash and stand with the dog sitting in the heel
position. The judge will say to the handler, “Are you ready?” The handler should answer either “Yes,”
or “No.” When the handler is ready the judge will give the order, “Forward.” The handler and dog
walk briskly, and in a natural manner, with the dog on a loose leash. The dog should walk close to the
handler’s left side without swinging wide, lagging, forging, or crowding. The area from the dog’s head
to shoulder should be in line with the handler’s left hip. The dog must not interfere with the handler’s
freedom of motion at any time. The handler may give a command OR signal to heel, NOT both.
Remaining Orders given by the Judge:
Halt: When the judge says, “Halt,” the handler stops. The dog should sit straight and promptly in the
heel position. The handler should not give a command OR signal to the dog. The dog should not
move until the handler again moves forward on the judge’s command. After each halt, the handler is
permitted to give a command OR signal to heel before again moving forward.
Right Turn: When the judge says, “Right Turn,” the handler and dog make a ninety-degree (90º) turn
to the right. This turn should be made squarely.
Left Turn: When the judge says, “Left Turn,” the handler and dog make a ninety-degree (90º) turn to
the left. This turn should be made squarely.
About Turn: When the judge says, “About Turn,” the handler and dog make a one-hundred-eighty
degree (180º) turn to the right.
Slow: When the judge says, “Slow,” the handler and dog walk at a noticeably slower pace than
normal.
Normal: The handler and dog begin the heeling pattern at a normal pace. After the judge gives the
order to walk “Slow” or “Fast,” he/she will give the order, “Normal.” The handler and dog then return to
a normal pace.
Fast: When the judge says, “Fast,” the handler and dog must run, moving forward at a noticeably
accelerated pace.
At the completion of the Heel exercise, the judge will say, “Exercise Finished.” At this time it is
appropriate for the handler to praise his/her dog.
Figure Eight
For this exercise, the handler will stand and the dog will sit in heel position facing the judge, midway
between the two stewards who will be standing eight (8) feet apart. The judge will ask, “Are you
ready?” The handler will say, “Yes” or “No.” After the handler and dog are ready, the judge will give
the order, “Forward.” The handler may choose to go in either direction. The handler and dog will walk
briskly around and between the two stewards twice. The judge will order at least one halt during this
exercise and another halt at the end. There will be no about turn, fast, or slow during this exercise. At
the completion of the Figure Eight exercise, the judge will say, “Exercise Finished.” At this time it is
appropriate for the handler to praise his/her dog.
Stand for Examination
The purpose of this exercise is for the dog to stand and stay in position before, during, and after the
examination without displaying resentment. The orders given by the judge are, “Stand your dog, and
leave when you are ready,” “Back to your dog,” and “Exercise Finished.”
On the judge’s order, the handler will take his/her dog to the place indicated by the judge and have
the dog sit in heel position. On the judge’s order to “Stand your dog, and leave when you are ready,”
the handler will stand/pose the dog by the method of the handler’s choice, taking any reasonable time
if he/she chooses to pose the dog as in the show ring. The handler will then stand with the dog in the
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heel position and give the command and/or signal to stay. The handler will then leave from heel
position, walk straight forward about six (6) feet, and turn and face the dog.
The judge will approach the dog from the front. Using the fingers and palm of one hand, the judge will
touch the dog’s head, body, and hindquarters. On the order “Back to your dog,” the handler will walk
around behind the dog and return to the heel position. The dog must remain standing, without moving
its feet, until the judge has said, “Exercise Finished.” At this time it is appropriate for the handler to
praise his/her dog. The dog must not show any shyness or resentment during this exercise.
Recall
The purpose of this exercise is for the dog to stay where left until called by the handler, and for the
dog to respond promptly to the handler’s command or signal to come. The orders given by the judge
are, “Leave your dog,” “Call your dog,” and “Finish.”
The handler will take the dog to the place designated by the judge and have the dog sit in the heel
position. On the judge’s order, “Leave your dog,” the handler may give a command and/or signal to
the dog to stay in the sit position. The handler will then walk forward to the end of the leash, turn to
face the dog, standing with the hand not holding the leash hanging naturally at the side of the body.
On the judge’s order or signal to “Call your dog,” the handler will either command OR signal the dog
to come, NOT both. The dog must come directly, at a brisk trot or gallop and sit straight, centered in
front of the handler. The dog must be close enough to its handler so that the handler could touch its
head without excessive bending, stretching, or moving either foot. The dog should not touch the
handler or sit between the handler’s feet.
On the judge’s order to “Finish,” the handler will give a command OR signal to finish, NOT both. The
dog must go promptly to heel position and sit straight at heel. The method by which the dog goes to
heel position is optional.
Group Exercises:
Long Sit (1 minute)
The purpose of this exercise is for the dog to remain in the sitting position for one (1) minute. The
judge’s orders are “Sit your dogs,” “Leave your dogs,” and “Return to your dogs.”
This exercise is performed together as a group by all the competing dogs of one class provided the
dogs can be spaced four (4) feet apart per dog on one side of the ring. If there are more dogs
competing than can be spaced 4 feet per dog, some must be judged in another group. This means
that there should be no more than 12 dogs in any one group if the ring is 50 feet long and no more
than 10 dogs in any one group if the ring is 40 feet long. Pre-Novice A and Pre-Novice B classes can
be combined for the Long Sit.
Before starting the Long Sit, the judge will ask if the handlers are ready. When the judge gives the
order, “Sit your dogs,” the handlers will command and/or signal their dogs to sit, if they are not
already sitting. On further order to “Leave your dogs,” the handlers will give a command and/or signal
to stay and immediately will go to the end of the leash, turn, and face their dogs.
If a dog gets up and starts to wander or follow its handler or if a dog moves to interfere with another
dog, the judge will promptly instruct the handler or one of the stewards to remove the dog from the
ring and/or keep it away from other dogs.
After one minute from the time the judge has ordered the handlers to leave their dogs, the judge will
give the order to “Return to your dogs.” The handlers must go back promptly, walking around and in
back of their own dog to the heel position. The dogs must not move from the sitting position until after
the judge has said, “Exercise finished.” This order will not be given until the handlers are back in heel
position.
Long Down (3 minutes)
The purpose of this exercise is for the dog to remain in the down position for three (3) minutes. The
judge’s orders are “Down your dogs,” “Leave your dogs,” and “Return to your dogs.”
This exercise is performed together as a group by all the competing dogs of one class provided the
dogs can be spaced four (4) feet apart per dog on one side of the ring. If there are more dogs
competing than can be spaced 4 feet per dog, some must be judged in another group. This means
that there should be no more than 12 dogs in any one group of the ring is 50 feet long and no more
than 10 dogs in any one group if the ring is 40 feet long. Pre-Novice A and Pre-Novice B classes can
be combined for the Long Down.
If a dog gets up and starts to wander or follow its handler or if a dog moves to interfere with another
dog, the judge will promptly instruct the handler or one of the stewards to remove the dog from the
ring and/or keep it away from other dogs.
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Before starting the Long Down, the judge will ask if the handlers are ready. On the judge’s order,
“Down your dogs,” the handlers will down their dogs, without touching either the dogs or their collars,
so that the dogs are facing the opposite side of the ring. The rest of this exercise is done in the same
manner as the Long Sit, except that the judge will order the handlers to return after three minutes,
and the dogs must not move from the down position until after the judge has said, “Exercise finished.”
The dogs will not be required to sit at the end of this exercise.
!Intermediate Novice Obedience Exercises
Intermediate Novice Exercises Maximum Scores
1. Heel on Leash 45 points
2. Figure 8 on Leash 25 points
3. Stand for Exam off Leash 30 points
4. Recall off Leash 40 points
5. Long Sit off Leash 1 minute 30 points
6. Long Down off Leash 3 minute 30 points
!Heel on Leash
The purpose of this exercise is to demonstrate the ability of the handler and dog to work as a team.
Orders for this exercise are “Forward,” “Halt,” “Right Turn,” “Left Turn,” “About Turn,” “Slow,” “Normal,”
and “Fast.” All “About Turns” will be right about turns. Orders for halts and turns will be given only
when the handler is moving at normal speed. The other orders may be given in any sequence, and
turns and halts may be repeated.
The leash may be held in either hand or in both hands, but the hands must be held in a natural
position. Any tightening or jerking of the leash and use of any extra commands and/or signals will be
penalized.
The handler will enter the ring with the dog on a loose leash and stand with the dog sitting in the heel
position. The judge will say to the handler, “Are you ready?” The handler should answer either “Yes,”
or “No.” When the handler is ready the judge will give the order, “Forward.” The handler and dog
walk briskly, and in a natural manner, with the dog on a loose leash. The dog should walk close to the
handler’s left side without swinging wide, lagging, forging, or crowding. The area from the dog’s head
to shoulder should be in line with the handler’s left hip. The dog must not interfere with the handler’s
freedom of motion at any time. The handler may give a command OR signal to heel, NOT both.
Remaining Orders given by the Judge:
Halt: When the judge says, “Halt,” the handler stops. The dog should sit straight and promptly in the
heel position. The handler should not give a command OR signal to the dog. The dog should not
move until the handler again moves forward on the judge’s command. After each halt, the handler is
permitted to give a command OR signal to heel before again moving forward.
Right Turn: When the judge says, “Right Turn,” the handler and dog make a ninety-degree (90º) turn
to the right. This turn should be made squarely.
Left Turn: When the judge says, “Left Turn,” the handler and dog make a ninety-degree (90º) turn to
the left. This turn should be made squarely.
About Turn: When the judge says, “About Turn,” the handler and dog make a one-hundred-eighty
degree (180º) turn to the right.
Slow: When the judge says, “Slow,” the handler and dog walk at a noticeably slower pace than
normal.
Normal: The handler and dog begin the heeling pattern at a normal pace. After the judge gives the
order to walk “Slow” or “Fast,” he/she will give the order, “Normal.” The handler and dog then return to
a normal pace.
Fast: When the judge says, “Fast,” the handler and dog must run, moving forward at a noticeably
accelerated pace.
At the completion of the Heel exercise, the judge will say, “Exercise Finished.” At this time it is
appropriate for the handler to praise his/her dog.
Figure Eight
For this exercise, the handler will stand and the dog will sit in heel position facing the judge, midway
between the two stewards who will be standing eight (8) feet apart. The judge will ask, “Are you
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ready?” The handler will say, “Yes” or “No.” After the handler and dog are ready, the judge will give
the order, “Forward.” The handler may choose to go in either direction. The handler and dog will walk
briskly around and between the two stewards twice. The judge will order at least one halt during this
exercise and another halt at the end. There will be no about turn, fast, or slow during this exercise. At
the completion of the Figure Eight exercise, the judge will say, “Exercise Finished.” At this time it is
appropriate for the handler to praise his/her dog.
Stand for Examination
The purpose of this exercise is for the dog to stand and stay in position before, during, and after the
examination without displaying resentment. The orders given by the judge are, “Stand your dog, and
leave when you are ready,” “Back to your dog,” and “Exercise Finished.”
On the judge’s order, the handler will take his/her dog to the place indicated by the judge and have
the dog sit in heel position. On the judge’s order to “Stand your dog, and leave when you are ready,”
the handler will stand/pose the dog by the method of the handler’s choice, taking any reasonable time
if he/she chooses to pose the dog as in the show ring. The handler will then stand with the dog in the
heel position and give the command and/or signal to stay. The handler will then leave from heel
position, walk straight forward about six (6) feet, and turn and face the dog.
The judge will approach the dog from the front. Using the fingers and palm of one hand, the judge will
touch the dog’s head, body, and hindquarters. On the order “Back to your dog,” the handler will walk
around behind the dog and return to the heel position. The dog must remain standing, without moving
its feet, until the judge has said, “Exercise Finished.” At this time it is appropriate for the handler to
praise his/her dog. The dog must not show any shyness or resentment during this exercise.
Recall
The purpose of this exercise is for the dog to stay where left until called by the handler, and for the
dog to respond promptly to the handler’s command or signal to come. The orders given by the judge
are, “Leave your dog,” “Call your dog,” and “Finish.”
The handler will take the dog to the place designated by the judge and have the dog sit in the heel
position. On the judge’s order, “Leave your dog,” the handler may give a command and/or signal to
the dog to stay in the sit position. The handler will then walk forward to the end of the leash, turn to
face the dog, standing with the hand not holding the leash hanging naturally at the side of the body.
On the judge’s order or signal to “Call your dog,” the handler will either command OR signal the dog
to come, NOT both. The dog must come directly, at a brisk trot or gallop and sit straight, centered in
front of the handler. The dog must be close enough to its handler so that the handler could touch its
head without excessive
bending, stretching, or moving either foot. The dog should not touch the handler or sit between the
handler’s feet.
On the judge’s order to “Finish,” the handler will give a command OR signal to finish, NOT both. The
dog must go promptly to heel position and sit straight at heel. The method by which the dog goes to
heel position is optional.
!
!Group Exercises:
Long Sit (1 minute) and Long Down (3 minutes)
Both the Long Sit and Long Down exercises are performed the same as the Pre-Novice Long Sit and
Long Down, but without a leash. Before starting the Long Sit and Long Down, the judge will ask if the
handlers are ready. When the judge gives the order, the handlers will command and/or signal their
dogs to sit (if not already sitting) or to down. On further order to “Leave your dogs,” the handlers will
give a command and/or signal to stay and immediately will go to the opposite side of the ring, turn,
and face their dogs.
If a dog gets up and starts to wander or follow its handler or if a dog moves to interfere with another
dog, the judge will promptly instruct the handler or one of the stewards to remove the dog from the
ring and/or kept it away from the other dogs.
At one minute from the time the judge has ordered the handlers to leave their dogs, the judge will give
the order, “Return to your dogs.” The handlers must go back promptly, walking around and in back of
his/her own dog to the heel position. The dogs must not move from the sitting or down position until
after the judge has said, “Exercise finished.” This order will not be given until the handlers are back in
heel position.
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For the Long Down, on the judge’s order the handlers will down their dogs without touching either the
dogs or their collars, so that the dogs are facing the opposite side of the ring.
!Novice Obedience Exercises
Novice Exercises Maximum Scores
1. Heel on Leash and Figure 8 40 points
2. Stand for Examination 30 points
3. Heel Free 40 points
4. Recall 30 points
5. Long Sit 30 points
6. Long Down 30 points
!
!Heel on Leash and Figure Eight
(This exercise is done On Leash) Refer to the Pre-Novice Heel on Leash and Figure Eight exercise
descriptions. The Novice Heel on Leash and Figure Eight will be done as one exercise.
Stand for Examination
This exercise is done off leash. On the judge’s order, the handler will remove the leash and give it to a
steward, who will place it on the judge’s table or other designated place. Refer to the Pre-Novice
Stand for Examination exercise description.
Heel Free
The purpose of this exercise is to show the ability of the handler and dog to work as a team without
the control of a leash. This exercise will be performed as in the Heel on Leash but without either the
leash or the Figure Eight. The handler’s left hand may be held against the front of the body, centered
at the waist, or hang and move naturally at the handler’s left side. The right hand should hang
naturally at the right side of the handler’s body.
Recall
This exercise is performed the same as the Pre-Novice Recall, but without the leash. The handler will
walk to the other end of the ring and stand with both arms and hands hanging naturally at the sides of
the body. On the judge’s order, the handler will either command OR signal the dog to come.
Group Exercises:
Long Sit (1 minute) and Long Down (3 minutes)
Both the Long Sit and Long Down exercises are performed the same as the Pre-Novice Long Sit and
Long Down, but without a leash. Before starting the Long Sit and Long Down, the judge will ask if the
handlers are ready. When the judge gives the order, the handlers will command and/or signal their
dogs to sit (if not already sitting) or to down. On further order to “Leave your dogs,” the handlers will
give a command and/or signal to stay and immediately will go to the opposite side of the ring, turn,
and face their dogs.
If a dog gets up and starts to wander or follow its handler or if a dog moves to interfere with another
dog, the judge will promptly instruct the handler or one of the stewards to remove the dog from the
ring and/or kept it away from the other dogs.
At one minute from the time the judge has ordered the handlers to leave their dogs, the judge will give
the order, “Return to your dogs.” The handlers must go back promptly, walking around and in back of
his/her own dog to the heel position. The dogs must not move from the sitting or down position until
after the judge has said, “Exercise finished.” This order will not be given until the handlers are back in
heel position.
For the Long Down, on the judge’s order the handlers will down their dogs without touching either the
dogs or their collars, so that the dogs are facing the opposite side of the ring.
Novice A and Novice B classes can be combined for the Long Sit, and for the Long Down, provided
there are no more than 12 dogs in any one group if the ring is 50 feet long and no more than 10 dogs
in any one group if the ring is 40 feet long.
!
!Advanced Novice Obedience Exercises
Novice Exercises Maximum Scores
1. Heel on Leash 30 points
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2. Stand for Examination/Call Dog 30 points
3. Heel Free and Figure 8 40 points
4. Drop On Recall 40 points
5. Long Sit 3 minutes handler across ring 30 points
6. Long Down 3 minutes out of sight 30 points
!
!Heel on Leash
The purpose of this exercise is to demonstrate the ability of the handler and dog to work as a team.
Orders for this exercise are “Forward,” “Halt,” “Right Turn,” “Left Turn,” “About Turn,” “Slow,” “Normal,”
and “Fast.” All “About Turns” will be right about turns. Orders for halts and turns will be given only
when the handler is moving at normal speed. The other orders may be given in any sequence, and
turns and halts may be repeated.
The leash may be held in either hand or in both hands, but the hands must be held in a natural
position. Any tightening or jerking of the leash and use of any extra commands and/or signals will be
penalized.
The handler will enter the ring with the dog on a loose leash and stand with the dog sitting in the heel
position. The judge will say to the handler, “Are you ready?” The handler should answer either “Yes,”
or “No.” When the handler is ready the judge will give the order, “Forward.” The handler and dog
walk briskly, and in a natural manner, with the dog on a loose leash. The dog should walk close to the
handler’s left side without swinging wide, lagging, forging, or crowding. The area from the dog’s head
to shoulder should be in line with the handler’s left hip. The
dog must not interfere with the handler’s freedom of motion at any time. The handler may give a
command OR signal to heel, NOT both.
Remaining Orders given by the Judge:
Halt: When the judge says, “Halt,” the handler stops. The dog should sit straight and promptly in the
heel position. The handler should not give a command OR signal to the dog. The dog should not
move until the handler again moves forward on the judge’s command. After each halt, the handler is
permitted to give a command OR signal to heel before again moving forward.
Right Turn: When the judge says, “Right Turn,” the handler and dog make a ninety-degree (90º) turn
to the right. This turn should be made squarely.
Left Turn: When the judge says, “Left Turn,” the handler and dog make a ninety-degree (90º) turn to
the left. This turn should be made squarely.
About Turn: When the judge says, “About Turn,” the handler and dog make a one-hundred-eighty
degree (180º) turn to the right.
Slow: When the judge says, “Slow,” the handler and dog walk at a noticeably slower pace than
normal.
Normal: The handler and dog begin the heeling pattern at a normal pace. After the judge gives the
order to walk “Slow” or “Fast,” he/she will give the order, “Normal.” The handler and dog then return to
a normal pace.
Fast: When the judge says, “Fast,” the handler and dog must run, moving forward at a noticeably
accelerated pace.
At the completion of the Heel exercise, the judge will say, “Exercise Finished.” At this time it is
appropriate for the handler to praise his/her dog
!Stand for Examination
The purpose of this exercise is for the dog to stand and stay in position before, during, and after the
examination without displaying resentment. The orders given by the judge are, “Stand your dog, and
leave when you are ready,” “Back to your dog,” and “Exercise Finished.”
On the judge’s order, the handler will take his/her dog to the place indicated by the judge and have
the dog sit in heel position. On the judge’s order to “Stand your dog, and leave when you are ready,”
the handler will stand/pose the dog by the method of the handler’s choice, taking any reasonable time
if he/she chooses to pose the dog as in the show ring. The handler will then stand with the dog in the
heel position and give the command and/or signal to stay. The handler will then leave from heel
position, walk straight forward about 8 - 10 feet, and turn and face the dog.
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The judge will ask the handler before the exercise begins whether the handler will be calling the dog
to heel or to front after the examination. The dog must perform in the manner chosen.
Judge uses two hands over head, shoulders, back and hips only.
!At this time it is appropriate for the handler to praise his/her dog. The dog must not show any
shyness or resentment during this exercise.
!Heel Free and Figure Eight Off Leash
This exercise will be executed in the same manner as the Novice Heel on Leash and Figure Eight
exercise, except that the dog will be off leash.
Drop on Recall
The purpose of this exercise, in addition to those listed under the Novice Recall, is to show the dog’s
prompt response to the handler’s command and/or signal to drop, and the dog’s remaining in the
down position until again called or signaled to come. The dog will be judged on the promptness of its
response to the command or signal.
The judge will order, “Leave your dog,” “Call your dog,” then give a clear signal to drop the dog,
followed by “Call your dog” and “Finish.”
On the judge’s order, the handler may give a command and/or signal for the dog to stay in the sit
position. The handler will walk forward to the other end of the ring, then turn, facing his/her dog, and
stand naturally, with both hands at the sides of the body. On the judge’s order or signal, the handler
will either command or signal the dog to come. The dog must come directly at a brisk trot or gallop.
On the judge’s arm or hand signal, the handler shall give the command and/or signal to drop, and the
dog must drop immediately to a complete down position. The dog must remain down until the judge
gives the order or signal for the handler to signal or command the dog to come. The dog finishes the
exercise as in the Novice Recall.
Long Sit (3 minute)
The Long Sit exercises are performed the same as the Pre-Novice Long Sit but without a leash.
Before starting the Long Sit, the judge will ask if the handlers are ready. When the judge gives the
order, the handlers will command and/or signal their dogs to sit (if not already sitting) or to down. On
further order to “Leave your dogs,” the handlers will give a command and/or signal to stay and
immediately will go to the opposite side of the ring, turn, and face their dogs.
If a dog gets up and starts to wander or follow its handler or if a dog moves to interfere with another
dog, the judge will promptly instruct the handler or one of the stewards to remove the dog from the
ring and/or kept it away from the other dogs.
At three minutes from the time the judge has ordered the handlers to leave their dogs, the judge will
give the order, “Return to your dogs.” The handlers must go back promptly, walking around and in
back of his/her own dog to the heel position. The dogs must not move from the sitting or down
position until after the judge has said, “Exercise finished.” This order will not be given until the
handlers are back in heel position.
Long Down (3 minutes)
These exercises are performed in the same manner as in the Novice
classes, except that the handlers must cross to the opposite side of the
ring then leave in a single file and go completely out of the dogs’ sight.
Counting from the judge’s order to “Leave your dogs,” the handlers must remain in the place
designated by the judge until three minutes have passed for the Long Down. On the judge’s orders,
the handlers will return to the ring in reverse order, line up to face their dogs at the opposite side of
the ring, and return to their dogs.
Orders and scoring are the same as in the Novice group exercises.
!Graduate Novice Obedience Exercises
Graduate Novice Exercises Maximum Scores
1. Heel on Leash and Figure Eight (off Leash) 40 points
2. Drop on Recall 40 points
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3. Dumbbell Recall 30 points
4. Recall over High Jump 30 points
5. Recall over Broad Jump 30 points
6. Long Down 30 points
Heel On Leash and Figure Eight Off Leash
This exercise will be executed in the same manner as the Novice Heel on Leash and Figure Eight
exercise, except that the dog will be off leash
Drop on Recall
The purpose of this exercise, in addition to those listed under the Novice Recall, is to show the dog’s
prompt response to the handler’s command and/or signal to drop, and the dog’s remaining in the
down position until again called or signaled to come. The dog will be judged on the promptness of its
response to the command or signal.
The judge will order, “Leave your dog,” “Call your dog,” then give a clear signal to drop the dog,
followed by “Call your dog” and “Finish.”
On the judge’s order, the handler may give a command and/or signal for the dog to stay in the sit
position. The handler will walk forward to the other end of the ring, then turn, facing his/her dog, and
stand naturally, with both hands at the sides of the body. On the judge’s order or signal, the handler
will either command or signal the dog to come. The dog must come directly at a brisk trot or gallop.
On the judge’s arm or hand signal, the handler shall give the command and/or signal to drop, and the
dog must drop immediately to a complete down position. The dog must remain down until the judge
gives the order or signal for the handler to signal or command the dog to come. The dog finishes the
exercise as in the Novice Recall.
Dumbbell Recall
The purpose of this exercise is to show that the dog can perform a recall off leash while holding a
dumbbell. This exercise will be performed like the Novice Recall but with the dog holding the
dumbbell. In addition to the Novice Recall, the dog will promptly take, hold, and deliver the dumbbell
when commanded.
The judge’s orders are “Give your dog the dumbbell,” “Leave your dog,” “Call your dog,” “Take it,” and
“Finish.”
The handler will stand with the dog sitting in the heel position in a place designated by the judge.
When the judge orders, “Give your dog the dumbbell,” the handler will present the dumbbell with one
command. The dog must accept it readily and hold it. When the judge orders, the handler may give
the command and/or signal to stay, and will walk forward to the other end of the ring and turn to face
the dog. On the judge’s order or signal, the handler will command or signal the dog to come. The dog
must come directly at a brisk trot or gallop. When the dog is sitting in front of the handler, the judge
will order, “Take it,” and the handler will give a command and take the dumbbell. The dog must
willingly give the dumbbell on command to the handler. The finish will be done as in the Novice
Recall.
Recall Over High Jump
The purpose of the exercise is for the dog to stay until directed to jump, clear the jump on a single
command or signal, and immediately return to sit in front of the handler.
The judge’s orders are “Leave your dog,” “Call your dog,” and “Finish.”
The handler will stand with the dog sitting in the heel position at least 8 feet from the jump. When the
judge orders, “Leave your dog,” the handler will give the command and/or signal to stay, go at least 8
feet beyond the other side of the high jump, and turn and face the dog as in the Novice Recall. On the
judge’s order, the handler will give the command or signal to jump. The dog must clear the high jump
without touching it and, without any further command or signal, immediately sit in front of the handler.
The finish is done as in the Novice Recall.
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!GLOSSARY OF TERMS
(Taken from AKC Obedience and Rally* Regulations)
Brisk, briskly - keenly alive, alert, energetic
Command - verbal order from handler to dog
Crooked - a dog that is not straight in line with the direction the handler is facing
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Crowding - a dog so close to handler as to interfere with handler's freedom of motion
Deductions*:
Minor deduction – 1 to 2 points
Minor to Substantial Deduction – 1 to 10 points
Substantial Deduction – 6 to 10 points
• Re-tries of a station are an automatic 3-point deduction
• Incorrectly Performed stations are an automatic 10-point deduction
!Directly - immediately, without deviation or hesitation
Drop completely - a down position that would be acceptable for a Long Down exercise
Gently - with kindness, without harshness or roughness
Guiding gently by the collar - control of the dog by holding any part of the collar with minimal
pressure on the dog's neck
Incorrectly Performed Station (IP)* - one or more principal parts of a station not performed or
performed incorrectly
Lame - irregularity or impairment of the function of locomotion, irrespective of the cause or how slight
or severe
Luring* - the appearance of having a reward in hand. e.g. holding the thumb and first two fingers
together as if holding a treat No treat need be present.
Maximum penalty - all points lost or Non-Qualifying zero. In 4-H, a Maximum Point Deduction means
that at least one-half of the total points for that exercise will be deducted if the youth/dog team fails to
perform one part of that exercise.
Minor penalty - 1/2 point to 2-1/2 points per fault or error.
Mouthing - when a dog chews or rolls the dumbbell in its mouth unnecessarily
Natural Manner - not artificial; free of affectation; what is customarily expected in the home or public
places
Order - direction from judge to handler, either verbal or nonverbal
Pause - a complete stop of forward motion by the handler
Pivot - turning in the circle occupied by the handler before they started the turn; a turn in place
Pleading* - repeated urgent commands and/or signals to elicit the proper behavior from the dog while
the dog remains unresponsive to handler’s commands or signals.
Prompt Response - without hesitation, immediate, quick.
Qualifying Score - A dog receives a qualifying score with a total of at least 170 points. A perfect
score in any class is 200.
Repeat of Station/Retry* - a station that is repeated in its entirety, including the approach, before
beginning the next station
Resentment - resistance, unwillingness
Signal - nonverbal direction from the handler to dog, as described in Chapter 2, Section 20
Smartly - quickly, vigorously
Station Not Attempted By The Handler* - a station skipped/missed by the handler before
attempting the next station
Substantial penalty - 3 points or more per fault or error
Turn in place - turning in the circle that was occupied by the handler before they started to turn
Withers - highest point of the dog's shoulder
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AKC Rally®
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AKC RALLY® INTRODUCTION
the Obedience Regulations and Rules Applying to Dog Shows, where applicable, shall govern the
conduct of AKC rally trials and shall apply to all persons and dogs participating in them, except as
these Rally Regulations may otherwise provide. AKC rally is a sport in which the dog and handler
complete a course that has been designed by the rally judge. the judge tells the handler to begin, and
the dog and handler proceed at a brisk pace through a course of designated stations (10-20, depending
on the level). each of these stations has a sign providing instructions regarding the next skill that is to
be performed. the dog and handler team moves continuously at a brisk but normal pace with the dog
under control at the handler’s left side. there should be a sense of teamwork between the dog and
handler both during the numbered exercises and between the exercise signs; however, perfect heel
position is not required. Any faults in traditional AKC obedience that would be evaluated and scored
as a one-point deduction or more should be scored the same in rally, unless otherwise mentioned in
the Rally Regulations. After the judge’s “Forward” order, the team is on its own to complete the
entire sequence of numbered signs correctly. unless otherwise specified in these regulations, handlers
are permitted to talk, praise, encourage, give additional commands and or signals using one or both
arms, clap their hands, pat their legs or use any verbal means of encouragement. The handler must
move in a natural manner. the handler’s arms need not be maintained in any particular position. At
any time during the performance, loud or harsh commands, intimidating signals, touching the dog
(unless otherwise specified by these regulations) or any physical corrections will be penalized. AKC
rally is a companion sport to AKC obedience. both require teamwork between dog and handler along
with similar performance skills. rally provides an excellent introduction to AKC companion events
for new dogs and handlers and can provide a challenging opportunity for competitors in other events
to strengthen their skills. All rally titles will follow the dog’s name.
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RALLY SIGNS
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The signs may be any color and they include descriptions as well as directional arrows of exercises.
Signs are numbered to make it easy to find the next station when navigating the course. Signs will be placed
to the right of the handler’s path except for those indicating a change in direction, in which case the sign will
be directly in front of the team to aid in that change.
The signs are large enough to be easily recognized when going through a course. The exercises
designated on the signs will be performed in close proximity to the sign itself, either directly in front of, or in
front of and to the left of the sign.
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Rally Competitions
Novice-this is the first level for those just getting started in competition.
• All exercises are performed with dog on leash
• There is a requirement of 10-15 stations to complete with no more than 5 stationary exercises
• The exercises performed vary from turning 360 degrees to changing paces during the course
• Exhibitors at this level may clap their hands, pat their legs, and talk to their dogs through the course
• Novice A Class - the handler must own the dog entered or be a member of the owner’s household or
immediate family. the handler may not have previously handled any dog that has earned an AKC rally
title or any AKC obedience title.
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Advanced-this is the second level, which includes more difficult exercises throughout the course
• All exercises are performed off leash
• There is a requirement of 12-17 stations with no more than 7 stationary exercises
• Exercises include a jump as well as calling your dog to the front of you from a stationary position
• Advanced A class - to be eligible for this class, dogs shall have won the rally novice (RN) title but have
not won the rally Advanced (RA) title or any AKC obedience title prior to the close of entries. A handler
must own the dog entered or be a member of the owner’s household or immediate family.
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Excellent-this is the third level and the most challenging
• Exercises are performed off leash.
• There is a requirement of 15-20-stations, with no more than 7 stationary exercises
• courses shall have a minimum of two Advanced level stations and a minimum of three excellent level
stations, plus the two required jumps and the sit stay exercise per class.
• unlike in the rally novice and Advanced classes, in rally excellent, handlers are not allowed to pat their
legs or clap their hands to encourage the dog.
• Verbal encouragement, multiple commands and/or inaudible signals using one or both arms and hands
are allowed; the handler’s arms need not be maintained in any particular position at any time. Handlers
may not touch their dog or make any physical corrections.
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The Rally Advanced Excellent Title. upon completion of the rally excellent title, qualifying scores may be
accumulated from the rally Advanced B class and the rally excellent B class to earn the rally Advanced
excellent (RAE) title. to earn a rally Advanced excellent title, the dog must have received qualifying scores in
both Advanced B and excellent B at 10 separate licensed or member rally trials. the RAE title will appear at
the end of the dog’s name and a numeric designation will indicate the number of times the dog has met RAE
requirements, i.e. RAE2, RAE3, etc.
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Qualifying Performance
A qualifying performance indicates that the dog has performed the required exercises according to the
AKC Rally Regulations. Each performance is timed, but times are only counted if two dogs earn the same
score. All dogs and handlers begin with a perfect 100. A dog and handler team is awarded a qualifying score if
it retains at least 70 points after the course has been completed.
Non-qualifying (NQ) scores shall be given for:
• Minimum requirements not met
• Dog unmanageable or uncontrolled barking
• Consistently tight lead
• Dog that eliminates while in the ring for judging
• Knocking over a jump
• Bar knocked off the uprights
• Handler error**
• Station not attempted by handler
• Using a jump as an aid in going over
• Walking through or on the broad jump boards
• Dog attempts broad jump but does not clear entire jump
• Failure of dog to go over the jump in the proper direction
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Ribbons
-Blue - awarded for first place in any regular class.
-Yellow - awarded for third place in each class. -
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-Red - awarded for second place in each class.
White - awarded for fourth place in each class.
All dogs that have received a qualifying score in their class receive a dark green ribbon to indicate that they
have earned a "leg," or qualifying score toward their title.
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
Deductions:
Minor deduction – 1 to 2 points
Minor to Substantial deduction – 1 to 10 points Substantial deduction – 6 to 10 points
• Re-tries of a station are an automatic 3 point deduction
• Incorrectly Performed stations are an automatic 10 point deduction
Luring – the appearance of having a reward in hand. e.g. holding the thumb and first two fingers together as if
holding a treat. no treat need be present.
Natural Manner – not artificial, free of affectation; what is customarily expected in the home or public
places.
Pivot – turning in the circle occupied by the handler before they started
Pleading – repeated urgent commands and/or signals to elicit the proper behavior from the dog while the dog
remains unresponsive to handler’s commands and/or signals.
Repeat of Station/Retry – a station that is repeated in its entirety, including the approach, before beginning
the next station.
***Station Not Attempted By The Handler – a station skipped/missed by the handler before attempting the
next station.
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NJ State 4H Dog Show Rally Rule Book
Introduction
NOTE: The NJ State 4H Dog show is not an AKC venue, however these guidelines draw heavily on
the AKC rules and judging criteria. Close alignment with AKC guidance also makes things easier on our
volunteer judges, who are often familiar with AKC regulations. Every effort is made to balance high
participation while offering ever increasing challenges to our 4-H members in their efforts to “Make the Best
Better.” The AKC has issued a major update to the Rally Obedience Rules effective in April of 2012. This
implementation comes so close to the date of our show in 2012 that we are delaying implementation of the
new stations and new rules until a future date. These rules will likely be changed to keep pace with the rule
changes going forward so please check these guidelines each year.
Rally is a sport in which the dog and handler complete a course that has been designed by the rally
judge. The judge tells the handler to begin, and the dog and handler proceed at their own pace through a
course of designated stations (10 – 20, depending on the level). Each of these stations has a sign providing
instructions regarding the next skill that is to be performed. Rally scoring is not as precise as formal
obedience, and ultimately it is the judges decision on the scoring of any station and the overall performance of
the team.
The team of dog and handler moves continuously at a brisk, but normal, pace with the dog under
control within a 2-foot area at the handler’s left side. There should be a sense of teamwork between the dog
and handler both during the numbered exercises and between the exercise signs; however, perfect “heel
position” is not required. Any faults in traditional obedience that would be evaluated and scored as a one point
deduction or more should be scored the same in Rally, unless otherwise mentioned in this document. After the
judge’s “Forward” order, the team is on its own to complete the entire sequence of numbered signs correctly.
Unlimited communication from the handler to the dog is to be encouraged and not penalized. Unless
otherwise specified in these Regulations, handlers are permitted to talk, praise, encourage, clap their hands,
pat their legs, or use any verbal means of encouragement. (The AKC is updating their rules in 2012 such that
hand clapping, and leg patting will only be allowed at the Novice level.) Multiple commands and/or signals
using one or both arms and hands are allowed; the handler’s arms need not be maintained in any particular
position at any time. (In 2012, the AKC is disallowing the use of a hand position that represents “luring with a
treat” with the thumb and index finger together. This position may also be disallowed at the NJ State 4H Dog
show in the future.) The handler may not touch the dog or make physical corrections. At any time during the
performance, loud or harsh commands or intimidating signals will be penalized.
Rally promotes fun and enjoyment and teamwork for dogs and handlers at all levels of competition.
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General Procedure
Section 1 - Space Requirements
The required minimum area for a rally course is 40 x 50 feet, however 40 x 80 feet is recommended.
The floor covering or ground surface must be the same as would be suitable for traditional AKC obedience
trials.
Section 2 - Armbands
Exhibitors shall be provided armbands or stickers, which must be worn on the upper left arm,
indicating their dog’s order in the class.
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Section 3 – Signs and Holders
The designated wording and symbols must be used. Signs must be a minimum of 8-1/2 x 11 inches
and a maximum of 11 x 17 inches. Weather conditions should be considered when securing signs and holders.
Colors used are optional. Twenty exercise sign holders are required plus one each for the Start and Finish
signs. All sign holders or signs (not including those for Start and Finish) will be clearly and sequentially
numbered on the course, with numbers approximately 3 inches high. Signs with an asterisk (numbers 5, 6, 7,
8, 9, 10, 17, 18, 19, and 34) may be used multiple times on a rally course. Two of each of those signs must be
available for the judge’s use. All other signs may only be used once on any course. Stationary exercises are
any signs indicating a “Halt” or no forward motion.
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Section 4 - Placement of Signs
Signs will be placed to the right of the handler’s path except for those indicating a change in direction,
in which case the sign will be directly in front of the handler to aid in that change. Exercises using cones may
require entry with the sign on the left. Exact placement of signs is made by the judge while walking the course
along the path that will be taken by the handlers. The course for each class will be posted at the ring prior to
the familiarization time (see below). If possible, copies will be given to exhibitors at check-in when armbands
are distributed for the class.
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Section 5 - Location of Performance in relation to Signs.
Except for exercises requiring entry with the sign on the left, exercises are performed near the
designated signs, either directly in front, or in front and to the left of said signs.
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Section 6 – Walk -Throughs
Prior to the start of each class, a 15-minute walk-through is allowed for handlers, without their dogs.
In the case of large classes, the judge may choose to offer more than one walk-through period. The judge must
be available in the ring during this period to answer any questions the handlers might have. The judge may
also choose to brief the handlers on the course during this period.Revised March 16, 2012
NJ State 4H Dog Show Rally Rule Book
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Section 7 – Judge's Instruction
The judge's orders will be, “Are you ready?” followed by, “Forward.” No other orders are necessary.
Section 8 - General Scoring
Scores will be provided ringside after the class is pinned. Times will be recorded but not posted. Times
will be used only to break ties. Any faults in traditional obedience that would be evaluated and scored as a one
point deduction or more should be scored the same in Rally, unless otherwise mentioned in this document.
Scoring for all levels is based on a maximum score of 100 points. The following deductions shall apply:
1-point deduction for each of the following:
• tight leash
• dog interfering with handler’s forward motion
• poor sits
• slow, delay, or resistance to respond
• touching or ticking a jump, pylon, post or person
• out of position
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3-point deduction for each of the following:
• repeat of a station (a maximum of 2 re-tries per station is allowed)
• pylon/post knocked over (on Figure Eight, Spiral, and Serpentine)
• lack of control
• loud command or intimidating signal
• excessive barking
10-point deduction for each of the following:
• incorrectly performed station
1- to 10-point deduction:
• lack of teamwork
• lack of briskness
• handler error
A score of “NQ” or “Non Qualifying “ for the course shall be given for:
• minimum qualifying score of 70 points not achieved.
• dog unmanageable or uncontrolled barking
• station not attempted
• consistently tight lead
• elimination in the ring during judging
• bar knocked off the uprights
• using a jump as an aid in going over
• failure of a dog to go over the jump in the proper direction
• handler error (As described in the AKC Rally Rules.)
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Section 9 - Timing
All dogs will be timed. Times will be used only in the event of ties. Timing will begin when the Judge
gives the order, “Forward” and will end when dog and handler cross the finish line. In the case of tie scores,
the dog and handler completing the course in the least amount of time will receive the higher placement and a
plus (+) after the score. The original scores will not be changed. In the event that both the score and time are
the same, the judges will choose a suitable tie-breaking exercise. The dog and handler teams could repeat the
course and be judged and timed again, for example.
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Section 10 - Awards
All classes will be award first through fourth place rosette ribbons. Light blue “honorable mention”
ribbons may also be awarded to deserving participants at the discretion of the judge.
Best in Shows will be awarded according to the current year's instructions.
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Classes
Each handler-dog team may only enter one rally class at the NJ State 4H Dog show. Please enter the
class that best represents the ability of the team. The leader of each participant’s 4H Club is responsible for
ensuring that the eligbility guidelines for each class are being applied properly.
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Section 1 - Rally Novice Class
All exercises are judged on leash, and all dogs must enter and leave the ring on leash.
The leash must be made of fabric or leather and needs to be long enough to provide adequate slack.
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Rally Novice must have between 10 – 15 stations (Start and Finish not included) with no more than five (5)
stationary exercises per class. .A person may enter more than one dog in this class. No handler/dog team may
be entered in this class who has been awarded a blue ribbon in this class at a state-level Rally Obedience
event, or has earned 3 or more qualifying scores in Rally Novice in their 4H career.
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Section 2 - Rally Advanced Class A – On Lead
All exercises are judged on leash, and all dogs must enter and leave the ring on leash. Rally Advanced
A and B must have between 12 – 17 stations (Start and Finish not included) with no more than seven (7)
stationary exercises per class. One jump is also required. A person may enter more than one dog in this class.
No handler/dog team may be entered in this class who has been awarded a blue ribbon in this class at a statelevel Rally Obedience event, or has earned 3 or more qualifying scores in Rally Advanced A in their 4H
career.
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Section 3 – Rally Advanced Class B – Off Lead
All exercises are judged off leash. All dogs must enter and leave the ring on leash. Rally Advanced A
and B must have between 12 – 17 stations (Start and Finish not included) with no more than seven (7)
stationary exercises per class. One jump is also required. A person may enter more than one dog in this class.
This class is open to all participants.
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Jumps
One jump must be used for the rally advanced classes. It may be any jump used as standard equipment
in 4-H obedience classes (broad jump, high jump, or bar jump), except that 4-foot wide jumps may be used in
place of 5-foot wide jumps. Various colors and decorations are allowed; however, there must be nothing
hanging from the jump. It is the judge’s responsibility to see that the jumps are set for each dog in accordance
with these Regulations.
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Section 1 – Jump Types
The Broad Jump will consist of three telescoping hurdles, each approximately 8 inches wide. The
largest hurdle will measure about 4 feet 10 inches long (if from a 5-foot set) and about 5 inches at the highest
point.
In the ring, broad jump hurdles will be arranged in order of size from smallest to largest. They will be
evenly spaced, covering a distance equal to twice the height of the high jump set for each dog. Three hurdles
will be used for a jump of 32 inches and two hurdles for a jump of 16 or 24 inches. When decreasing the
number of hurdles in the jump, the highest hurdle will be removed first.
The High Jump consists of two uprights and solid boards of varying widths that combine to make each
dog’s required jump height. The Bar Jump also has two uprights. These are constructed to support only a
striped bar which is set at the dog’s required jump height.
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Section 2 - Jump Heights
The dog’s jump height shall be given on the entry form. Entries may be arranged according to the
jump height of the dogs, from either high to low or low to high.
4"class – for dogs measuring up to 10 inches at the shoulder
8" class – for dogs measuring 11 to 14 inches at the shoulder
12" class – for dogs measuring 15 to 18 inches at the shoulder
16" class – for dogs measuring 19 inches and over at the shoulder
Any special considerations that would require an exception to the above jump heights must be
expressly explained on the entry form, and signed by your 4H Leader.
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AKC Agility
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Purpose of Agility
The purpose of AKC® agility trials is to afford owners the opportunity to demonstrate a dog’s physical
ability/soundness and willingness to work with its handler under a variety of conditions. The program begins
with basic entry-level agility, and progresses to more complex levels that require dogs to demonstrate higher
levels of training and interaction with their handlers.
Agility results in a better rounded, conditioned dog, provides good basic training for search and rescue
dogs, demonstrates good training and citizenship and has excellent spectator appeal.
Agility trials are sporting events and all participants should be guided by the principles of good
sportsmanship both in and outside the trial course.
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What dogs can compete
All dogs fifteen (15) months of age or older that are registered with the American Kennel Club or that
have AKC Limited Registration, Purebred Alternative Listing/Indefinite Listing Privileges (PAL/ILP)
or an AKC Canine Partners listing number, or approved Foundation Stock Service (FSS) breeds are eligible to
participate.
Dogs with a Purebred Alternative Listing/Indefinite Listing Privileges (PAL/ILP) or an AKC Canine
Partners listing number must be spayed or neutered in order to compete. Wherever the word “dog” is used in
these regulations it includes both sexes.
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Regular Titling Classes
Novice Agility Standard & Novice Jumpers With Weaves Classes. The Novice Agility Standard class and
the Novice Jumpers With Weaves class are divided into Divisions A and B. Division A is for dogs that have
never acquired any AKC agility title. Additionally, a dog entered in Novice A must be handled by a person
that has never put an AKC agility title on any dog, and the handler must be the owner, co-owner, or a member
of the owner’s household. Handlers that co-own a dog and have never put an AKC agility title on a dog may
enter the Novice A class regardless of the other co-owner’s AKC agility accomplishments. Dogs eligible for
Novice A may be entered in the Novice B class at the discretion of the owner. Division B is for dogs that have
acquired the Novice Agility title, or the Novice Agility Jumper title, or for persons who have handled a dog to
any AKC agility title, and for dogs being handled by someone other than the owner, co-owner,
or household member subject to the restrictions listed above. A dog may continue to be shown in the Novice B
class until they have acquired a qualifying score towards their Open title. Whenever the Novice class is
offered, both divisions A and B must be offered.
Open Agility Standard Class. Open to dogs that have acquired the Novice Agility or the Open Agility titles
but have not acquired a qualifying score towards their Agility Excellent title.
Open Jumpers With Weaves. Open to dogs that have acquired the Novice Agility Jumper or the Open
Agility Jumper titles but have not acquired a qualifying score towards an Excellent Agility Jumper title.
Excellent Agility Standard Class. Open to dogs that have acquired the Open Agility title, and to dogs that
have acquired the Agility Excellent title but that have not acquired a qualifying score towards their Master
Agility Excellent title.
Excellent Jumpers With Weaves Class. Open to dogs that have acquired the Open Agility Jumper title and
to dogs that have acquired the Excellent Agility Jumper title but have not acquired a qualifying score towards
their Master Excellent Jumper title.
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Master Agility Standard Class. Open only to dogs that have acquired the Agility Excellent title, and to dogs
that have acquired the Master Agility Excellent title.
Master Jumpers With Weaves Class. Open only to dogs that have acquired the Excellent Agility Jumper
title and to dogs that have acquired the Master Excellent Jumper title.
Whenever the Excellent classes are offered both Excellent and Master classes must be offered.
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Pg #40 & 41 of the AKC agility regulations
Section 9. Collars. At the handler’s option, dogs may run a course with or without a collar. The only collars
allowed when running a course are flat buckle or rolled leather collars, but there shall be no attachments
hanging or otherwise allowed on the collar. This shall not preclude painted or stitched designs or information
on the collar. Dog’s names and/or identifying information may appear on the collar. No title, awards, or
advertising may appear on the collar. Dogs may be brought to the start line on slip leads, choke chains, body
harnesses or other collars that are permitted on the trial grounds. Pinch/prong and electrical collars (dummy or
not), head halters and special training collars are not allowed anywhere on the trial grounds. When an agility
trial is held on the same show grounds as other AKC venues (such as obedience and conformation), collar
regulations of the other venues if more restrictive than agility shall take precedence
Section 10. Leashes. Handlers shall be allowed to bring their dog to the start line on leash. Handlers shall
comply with the judge’s instructions for being ready to start their run, having their dog off leash and under
control in a timely manner. Dogs shall not be faulted for the act of playing tug on the leash, nor for going to or
picking up a leash laid in the ring (usually laid after the last obstacle or near the ring exit). A leash may not
have excess material dangling from it, nor may it have any attachments including a fleece or leather wrap.
Dogs shall be on leash at all times when on the show grounds except in the ring and at the warm-up jump
area.
Dogs must enter and exit the ring with the leash attached to the dog’s collar or harness, or in the case
of a slip lead, with the noose completely around the dog’s neck, with the other end of the leash held by the
handler. Any entry or exit chutes added to the ring for the ease of getting dogs in and out of the ring are not
considered to be part of the ring.
Clubs must provide a leash holder or a container for the leash runner to place the leash in or on, which
can easily be located by the handler near the ring exit. Leashes or slip leads may not be hung on the ring
barrier nor placed on the ground.
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Section 12. Handling Aids. Food and toys are not permitted in the course area and handlers are not permitted
to use or have in their possession while running the course, whistles, stopwatches, leashes, fanny packs, or
other handling/training aids.
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Section 13. Handler’s Position. Dogs can be worked on any side (left, right, front or behind) and at any
distance in any class however; course layout (e.g., against a ring, gate, or wall) may restrict the handler’s
position.
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Section 14. Starting and Completion. Judging the performance of the dog shall start as soon as the dog
enters the ring. A dog’s time starts whenever any part of the dog crosses the start line, defined as the plane of
the first obstacle. A dog’s time stops whenever any part of the dog crosses the finish line in the correct
direction when the dog is in the closing sequence. The finish line is defined as the plane of the last obstacle.
The closing sequence is defined by the completion of the second to last obstacle on the way to the finish
obstacle. The dog shall be on leash when exiting the ring and not be allowed to run loose “off leash” around
the trial site.
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All classes except Jumpers with weaves, can or must have contact obstacles, which have yellow “contact
zones” at each end. Contact obstacles include A-frame, dog walk and seesaw. At the A Frame Dogs must
ascend one panel and descend the other in the direction designated by the judge and they must touch the
contact zone on the down side only, with any part of one foot prior to exiting the obstacle. At the dog walk
dogs must ascend one of the ramps, cross the center section, and descend the other ramp in the direction
designated by the judge. They must touch the down contact zone with any part of one foot prior to exiting the
obstacle. On the Seesaw Dogs must ascend the plank touching the “up” contact zone with any part of one foot
and cause the plank to pivot. At least one paw must touch the “down” contact zone after the plank has touched
the ground and prior to exiting the obstacle with all four (4) paws.
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The Jumpers with Weaves class does not have contact obstacles or a pause table to slow the team’s forward
momentum. This is a very fast course requiring instant decisions by the handler and close attention from the
dog.
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The FAST (Fifteen and Send Time) class is an additional test of strategy skill, accuracy, speed, timing and
distance handling, to demonstrate a dog’s athletic ability and willingness to work with its handler in a fastpaced atmosphere over a variety of agility obstacles. As indicated by the title, the Fifteen and Send Time class
uses fifteen (15) point-valued obstacles and/ or obstacle combinations. The course will include a ‘Send Bonus’
or distance element that will award a bonus of twenty (20) points if completed successfully, and is identified
as the ‘Send Bonus.‘
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The Time 2 Beat (T2B) class is a combination course from the Standard and Jumpers With Weaves classes.
While dogs of any skill level (e.g. Novice, Open, Excellent, Master) are allowed to compete in T2B, to be
successful dogs will need to demonstrate athletic ability and an advanced skill level. This optional agility
titling class is meant to challenge the handler/dog to set a clean efficient line with an emphasis on speed and
accuracy. The dog that sets the quickest time in each jump height will set the time to beat for that jump height.
There will be a single class level and all dogs with any skill level (e.g. Novice, Open, Excellent, Master) will
compete on the same course.
How Agility is Scored Agility is a time and fault sport where the qualifying requirements are more challenging as the competition
class levels get higher. There are two types of faults: time and penalty. Time faults are given for every second
a dog goes over the Standard Course Time.
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Below are examples of Penalty Faults that a judge may assess a handler and dog:
• Taking an obstacle out of sequence
• Missing a contact zone
• Displacing a bar or panel on a jump
• Jumping off the pause table before the judge is through counting
• Running around or refusing the next obstacle
• Exceeding the amount of time set by the judge for running the course
• Touching either the dog or any obstacle by the handler while running the course
• Outside assistance may be penalized
• Handler failure to control the dog may be penalized
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Agility Terms
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Qualifying Performance - A perfect score in any class at any level is 100. A dog must earn 3
qualifying scores under two different judges.
MACH - Masters Agility Champion
Jump Heights - The classes are divided by jump heights in order to make the competition equal
between the different sizes of dogs.
In the REGULAR class, a dog of a certain height at the shoulder jumps a specific height
according to an objective measurement.
The PREFERRED class affords an opportunity for a greater variety of dogs and their handlers,
to participate in the sport of agility. Handlers have the option to enter the Preferred classes with modified, but
still specific standards of lower jump heights and more generous course times.
Jump Height Card - ( See pg 28 & 29 of the AKC agility rule book for more info on measuring) All dogs competing in agility must possess an official AKC Jump Height Card. An official AKC Jump Height
Card is defined as either a permanent jump height card, a valid temporary jump height form, copies of two
different measuring forms (placing the dog in the same height class) dated on or after the dog’s second
birthday, or copies of three different measuring forms (two of which place the dog in the same height class)
dated on or after the dog’s second birthday.
At two (2) years of age two measurements are required by two different Volunteer Measuring Officials
(VMO’s) or AKC Field Reps. If these two measurements put the dog in two different jump heights, then a
third measurement will be used to determine the dog’s official jump height. The handler will retain all yellow
forms until the second (or third) measurement is taken and the permanent jump height card is received from
AKC. No permanent height card will be issued until the second (or third) measurement is officially recorded,
with the exception of dogs measuring over 22 inches whose owner may request the issuance of a permanent
height card with one measurement.
For dogs between 15 months and two years of age, one measurement is required. The handler will
retain the yellow measurement form. This form is the dog’s temporary jump height card; no card will be
issued by AKC. A card will not be issued until the dog’s permanent measurement is recorded. This temporary
jump height card form expires on the dog’s second birthday.
If there is not an AKC Field Representative or Volunteer Measuring Official in attendance, all dogs
that have not been issued a permanent Jump Height Card or temporary jump height (yellow) form may still
compete; however, they must be measured by a judge of record for the trial, prior to running at each trial. The
judge’s measurement will be valid for this trial or back-to-back trials only. For the judge’s planning purposes,
the Trial Secretary should provide the judge with a list of dogs that need to be measured. This list is comprised
of all entries where “My Dog Needs To Be Measured” was check-marked on the entry form. Jump height
cards (including copies) do not have to be submitted to the trial secretary nor are jump height cards required to
be shown during check-in. If a measurement is necessary, it is the exhibitor’s responsibility to have their
dog(s) measured prior to running.
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AGILITY RULES AND GUIDELINES FOR THE
NEW JERSEY 4-H STATE DOG SHOW
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All 4-H activities and events are to be youth focused. This means that the event will help teach young
people lifelong skills and assets, utilizing their project, in this case, interaction with their dog, as a vehicle for
learning those skills. The actual event takes a back seat to the development of the young people. Safety is also,
and always, a primary concern for both youth and animal.
Eligibility Guidelines:
In order to compete in Agility each exhibitor and dog must be able to demonstrate the following competencies
at the county level:
1. A successful sit/stay.
2. A successful down/stay.
3. A good relationship between the dog and handler, which includes ability to control the dog whether
stationary or when walking on leash.
4. The ability to be peacefully approached by other dogs and handlers. It is strongly suggested that
youth and dog successfully complete at least one year of obedience training before moving to
agility.
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Participation Rules:
1. The handler and dog must be in good health at the time of competition.
2. Dog and handler must have some specific agility training experience in order to enter agility at the
NJ 4-H State Dog Show. The experience does not have to be in competition.
3. For the health of the animal, dogs must be at least 12 months old to compete in agility. It is
recommended that larger breeds be at least 18 months old. This is because for most breeds the growth
plates in the bones are still developing until the average age of fourteen months – even later for large
breeds.
4. Dogs 18 months and younger and 7 years and older are encouraged to jump at least one height
lower than their measured jump height, at the recommendation of your leader, and with specific
communication on the registration for clarity.
5. All 4-Hers are strongly encouraged to consult their veterinarian before beginning agility training to
be sure that there are no problems such as hip dysplasia, disc problems, overweight, etc.
6. The handler and dog must know basic commands at the time of competition. (sit, down, stay, come,
controlled walking on leash, etc.)
7. Any breed or mixture of breeds and/or size dog is allowed to compete. 8. The handler must have
reasonable control over their dog at all times.
9. For individuals sharing a dog as their registered project animal (as demonstrated by current record
books of that animal), there is a maximum number of one run per dog per day for each member.
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Standard Equipment for exhibitors:
1. Tab lead only; maximum length of 6”, with no loop. (No full length leashes. Some tab leashes will
be available to borrow if needed).
2. For safety reasons, handlers must wear closed toe shoes appropriate for running with their dogs.
3. The use of food or toys in the competition ring is prohibited.
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Class Jump Heights:
Classes are divided by four jump heights:
4"class – for dogs measuring up to 10 inches at the shoulder
8" class – for dogs measuring 11 to 14 inches at the shoulder
12" class – for dogs measuring 15 to 18 inches at the shoulder 16" class – for dogs measuring 19 inches and
over at the shoulder
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Any special considerations (including age or health) that would require an exception to the above jump
heights must be expressly explained on the entry form for clarity.
Class Descriptions: Depending on their demonstrated abilities handler/dog teams may enter one of two
classes: Jumps-Tunnels-Table (JTT) or Standard Agility (STD).
Jumps-Tunnels-Table ("JTT") Classes:
There are two divisions of this class: JTT-A, with tab lead and JTT B, off-lead.
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Obstacles will consist of single wing and non-winged jumps, a table, and one or more open tunnels.
Jumps, Tunnels and Table A– with tab lead: For dogs who have minimal experience in agility working offleash, and/or may need extra guidance to remain on course.
Jumps, Tunnels and Table B – off leash: For dogs who have had some experience with agility, are reliable
off-leash, but may not be ready for standard agility and the contact equipment and/or weaves.
Standard Agility ("STD") Classes:
There are two divisions of this class: Standard A, with tab lead and Standard B, off-lead. Equipment stated
below.
Obstacles will consist of contact obstacles (A-frame and/or dog walk, and/or seesaw), six weave poles,
wing and non-wing jumps, open tunnels and table.
Standard A - tab lead. For dogs who have had some experience and are familiar with weaves and contact
equipment, but have less experience working off-leash. Dog may need extraguidance to remain on course.
Standard B - off-lead. For dogs who are experienced in agility, able to complete the weaves and contact
equipment independently, and are reliable off- leash.
**Exhibitors should enter Standard Agility only after demonstrating the ability to complete contact
obstacles and weaves successfully as determined by a county dog project leader / trainer or independent
agility trainer.
General Course Information:
1. JTT agility courses will consist of 7–10 obstacles with a maximum course time of 2 minutes. Standard
agility courses will consist of 10 to 15 obstacles with a maximum course time of 3 minutes. Areas in
which courses are set up should be at least 50 feet by 60 feet.
2. Time begins when any part of the dog crosses the start line, defined as the plane of the first obstacle.
3. Each obstacle will be marked with a number. Handlers and dogs will be required to follow the course in
numerical order in order to avoid penalty.
4. Before competition begins, the handlers will be allowed to walk through the course to become familiar
with the course. The walk through is restricted to the handlers only and is limited to 10 minutes.
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5. A warm-up jump outside of the ring will be available for handlers and dogs. Handlers should be
considerate of others in taking turns at the warm-up jump.
6. Any dog whose hair covers its eyes and may interfere with its vision of the obstacles may tie the hair
back with rubber bands.
7. Food and toys are not permitted on the course.
8. Handlers are not permitted to have whistles, stopwatches, fanny packs, or other training devices on the
course.
9. The handlers may be on either side of the dog while running the course.
10. Time ends when any part of the dog crosses the finish line, in the correct direction, when the dog is in
the closing sequence. The finish line is defined as the plane of the last obstacle.
11. At the handler’s option, dogs may run a course with or without a collar. The only collars allowed when
running a course are flat buckle or rolled leather collars, but there shall be no attachments hanging or
otherwise allowed on the collar. This shall not preclude painted or stitched designs or information on the
collar. Dog’s names and/or identifying information may appear on the collar. No title, awards, or
advertising may appear on the collar. Dogs may be brought to the start line on slip leads, choke chains,
body harnesses or other collars that are permitted on the trial grounds.
12. Any dog that commits to a contact obstacle (A-frame, dog walk, seesaw) with all four paws must, for
safety reasons, continue with the obstacle. Whether obstacle is completed or not, if the dog jumps off,
dog and handler must go on to the next obstacle and may not attempt that obstacle again.
General Scoring:
1. Each course is worth a maximum of 100 points.
2. A penalty consists of the loss of 5 or 10 points.
3. Ten point penalties (judge holds up two hands) include:
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Not making contact in contact zones ( the contrasting colored zone, usually yellow, on the start and end of each contact obstacle), with at least one paw.
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Not completing an obstacle following a refusal or run-by (must go back and complete obstacle after a refusal or run-by to avoid penalty)
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The handler going over the obstacle with the dog
4. Five point penalties (judge holds up one hand) include:
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Not doing the obstacles in proper order (wrong course)
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Knocking down a jump bar
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Excessively guiding the dog with the tab lead
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Touching the dog or the obstacle to aide in handling
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Releasing the dog from the table and proceeding to next obstacle before the judge says “GO.
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Continuing to the next obstacle after missing one or more weave poles (must complete weave poles correctly.)
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Any outside interference or assistance that aids or is intended to aid the dog or handler.
5. Refusals or run-by’s will not be faulted in 4-H competition, as long as the obstacle is then completed. 6. The dog/handler team’s run will be timed. In the case of a tie in total points, the fastest time will win. 7. There will be a maximum course time for each class. Exhibitors will be asked to leave the ring if this
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maximum course time is reached. The run will result in a non-qualifying score once the maximum course
time has been exceeded. 8. Any interference or outside assistance that aids or is intended to aid the dog or handler will be
considered a 5-point penalty. 9. Excessive or harsh commands or corrections, as well as, un-sportsmanlike conduct will not be tolerated.
This will be a penalty and the handler and dog will be excused from the ring and competition. 10. Failure to follow judge’s verbal instructions is a penalty determined by the judge (points or excusal
from the ring).
11. If the dog urinates or defecates in the ring (from the time it enters until it leaves the ring), the dog and
handler will be disqualified from that class.
12. A score of 70 or higher is considered a Qualifying Score in all classes of 4-H agility.
Obstacles:
It is critical that the equipment used in agility be safe for the 4-H Youth and their dogs. It is recommended that
they arrange for the judge they have selected to check the equipment prior to the show, and again for
condition on the day of the show.
A-Frame: Dogs must go up one side touching the contact zone on the up side with any part of one foot and
down the other side in the direction designated by the judge. The dog must also touch the contact zone on the
down side with any part of one foot prior to exiting the obstacle. The height of the A-frame at the apex will be
no higher than 4’6”. A-Frame has slats.
Dog Walk: Dogs must go up the ramp touching the up contact zone with any part of one foot, cross the center
section and go down the down ramp touching any part of one foot in the down contact zone prior to exiting
the obstacle. Dog walk has slats.
Seesaw: Dogs must go up the plank touching the up contact zone with any part of one foot and cause the
plank to pivot. At least one foot must touch the down contact zone after the plank has touched the ground and
prior to exiting the obstacle.
Weave Poles: The dogs must enter the weave poles by passing between poles # 1 and #2 . The dog's left
shoulder must enter on the right of the 1st pole. The dog must continue to weave through the remaining poles
before exiting between pole 5 and 6.
Pause Table: The dogs must pause on the table for 5 seconds in either a sit, down, or standing position. The
judge will do an oral count (which will begin as soon as the dog is on the table) and will also give a signal to
―”Go” after the count is completed. When the judge says, “Go”, the handler may then release the dog and
proceed. If the dog breaks from the table before the word “Go”, the judge will stop counting and will only
continue the count when the dog returns to the table.
Open Tunnel: The dogs must enter the end specified by the judge and exit the other end.
Bar Jumps: The dogs must jump over the top bar, without displacing it, in the direction indicated by the judge.
Tire Jump: The dogs must jump through the tire opening in the direction indicated by the judge, without
knocking the tire/frame over.
Panel Jump: The dog must jump over the top panel without displacing it, in the direction indicated by the
judge.
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AKC dog breed information
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For 2014 NJ State 4-H Dog Bowl, we will not be asking details about breed standards of AKC
breeds of dogs relating to structure.
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Questions will be limited to the following information
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The AKC breed groups are:
Herding, Working, Hounds, Sporting, Non Sporting, Toys, and Terrier
(we will not ask about the Miscellaneous Group)
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Name up to 7 breeds of dogs in any of the AKC breed groups
ie - Name 3 breeds in the Hound Group Answer - Bloodhound, Whippet, and Greyhound
All the breeds are available at AKC.org. It would take too much space to list all
the breeds here, so if you have questions, please look it up.
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Breeds of dogs that originated in the USA - This is not a complete list of dogs
Alaskan Malamute
American Eskimo Dog
American Foxhound
American Staffordshire Terrier
American Water Spaniel
Black and Tan Coonhound
Boston Terrier
Chesapeake Bay Retriever
Plott Hound
Australian Shepherd
Treeing Walker Coonhound
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AKC allows spayed and neutered dogs to compete in Jr Showmanship, Performance, Obedience,
Rally, Agility, and all events except conformation classes that make a dog eligible for Best in Show at an all
breed show.
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Mixed breed dogs are eligible for AKC registration. The AKC Canine PartnersSM Program is open to
spayed/ neutered mixed-breed dogs, purebred dogs not eligible for AKC registration or AKC Foundation
Stock Service (FSS), and dogs not currently enrolled in AKC Purebred Alternative Listing (PAL).
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Mixed breed dogs that are registered with AKC will be eligible for competition in Companion events
which are Obedience, Rally, and agility and the exciting new event, Coursing Ability. In addition they are
eligible for the AKC Therapy Dog title and new Flyball titles
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Performance Events
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(Does not include agility, rally, and obedience - which are covered separately)!
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Herding - The purpose of the competitive herding trial program is to preserve and develop the
herding skills inherent in the herding breeds and to demonstrate that they can perform the useful
functions for which they were originally bred. The herding trials are open to all breeds in the
herding group as well as Rottweilers, Samoyeds, Standard and Giant Schnauzers, and Greater
Swiss Mountain Dogs, and non herding group breeds Bernese Mountain dogs, Boxers, Kerry Blue
Terriers and Soft Coated Wheaton Terriers. Herding tests and trials can be judged with the dogs
herding sheep, goats, ducks, geese, turkeys or cattle, but must be stated in the premium list
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Earth Dog - The purpose of non-competitive Earthdog tests is to offer breeders and owners of small
Terriers and Dachshunds a standardized gauge to measure their dogs' natural aptitude and trained
hunting and working behaviors when exposed to an underground hunting situation. The
noncompetitive program begins with a basic introduction to den work and quarry and progresses
through gradual steps to require the dog to demonstrate that it is willing to perform the required
tasks including seeking its quarry, locating and working it underground.!
The behaviors tested are willingness to follow a scent to the entrance; willingness to enter a
dark den; and willingness to work the quarry. The dog may work the caged rats by barking, digging,
growling, lunging, biting at the protective bars or any work that the judge feels displays a desire to
get to the quarry.!
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Tracking - AKC tracking events are the competition form of canine search and rescue. These
Tracking events provide training for dogs and their handlers to meet some human needs for tracking
and finding lost humans or other animals, as well as, demonstrating the extremely high level of
scent capability that dogs possess.
A dog earns a tracking title by following a track laid by a human tracklayer and is "aged" 30
minutes to five hours, depending on the level of test, before the dog begins scenting. The goal is to
use the scented track to locate an article left at the end of the trail by the tracklayer. The owner
follows the dog on a long leash and can encourage the dog during the tracking test.
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Lure Coursing - The purpose of non-competitive lure coursing tests is to offer sighthound breed
owners a standardized gauge to measure their hounds' coursing instinct. The purpose of the
competitive lure coursing trial program is to preserve and develop the coursing skills inherent in the
sighthounds. Sighthounds are a special group of hounds that are bred to hunt by sight. The
sighthound breeds are: Whippets, Basenjis, Greyhounds, Italian Greyhounds, Afghan Hounds,
Borzois, Ibizan Hounds, Pharaoh Hounds, Irish Wolfhounds, Scottish Deerhounds, Salukis and
Rhodesian Ridgebacks. These Tests and Trials utilize a 'lure' of white plastic strung around a rope
course of 600 to 800 yards in an open field. The lure is moved around the field by a motor and
pulleys to control the speed and direction of the rope with the lure attached.
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Field Trials and Hunting Tests - The purpose of these events is to offer tests and events that
preserve and develop the natural instinct of the hunting breeds of pointers, hounds, any gun dog
breeds or hunting breeds of which there are many.
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Coursing Ability Test (CAT) - The Coursing Ability Test (CAT) is an introductory event fashioned after the
sport lure coursing. It will provide a fun and healthy activity attractive to many dog owners. The following is
a summary of how the event is structured:
1. Non-competitive pass / fail event fashioned after the sport of lure coursing.
2. Dogs run singularly.
3. Open to all dogs at least 12 months of age that are individually registered with the AKC, recorded in
the FSS program, dogs with PAL numbers or dogs enrolled in the AKC Canine Partners program.
Females in season may not enter. A dog may enter only once per event. (An event is defined by an
event number.)
4. Course distance / course design:
1. ● Dogs under 12” at the withers and/or brachycephalic (“flat-faced”) dogs = approx. 300 yards
2. ● Dogs over 12” at the withers that are not brachycephalic dogs = approximately 600 yards
3. ● If there is a question whether a dog should run 300 or 600 yards, the judge will decide.
4. ● The course shall be designed with safety for non-sighthound breeds as a primary
consideration. There shall be no turns more acute than 90 degrees.
5. ● Safety is of utmost importance. Since many of the dogs running will not be as agile as a
sighthound, this must be a consideration in the design of the course.
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Complete Regulations governing CAT can be found on AKC’s Coursing Ability Test website or Chapter 15 of
the Regulations for Lure Coursing.
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Barn Hunt
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• The Barn Hunt Association and the American Kennel Club are pleased to announce that the AKC will
recognize titles earned in the new sport of Barn Hunt.
• The sport of Barn Hunt is based on the hunting and teamwork skills historically used by “rat catchers” who
traveled the countryside ridding farms of vermin. Dogs and handlers work as a team to locate and mark rats
(safe in aerated tubes) hidden in a maze of straw or hay bales. The event is open to all dogs.
• “Barn Hunt tests the nose, speed, agility and surefootedness of dogs that have a history of above-ground
vermin hunting,” said Robin Nuttall, founder of the Barn Hunt Association. “We quickly found out that
many breeds and mixed breeds enjoy the search and can excel at this sport.”
• Barn Hunt events include a pass/fail Instinct class for owners who want to familiarize their dog with the test.
The AKC will recognize titles at four testing levels above Instinct. Courses are made increasingly difficult
by adding more obstacles, additional diversions and more rats to find. The BHA has developed the sport to
be fun for all participants, plus easy and inexpensive to hold.
• Legs, or qualifying scores, toward Barn Hunt titles are earned by the dog and handler team completing the
course within maximum course time. Placements based on time are awarded, but Barn Hunt is a noncompetitive event and teams do not have to beat other dogs to title.
• “We are pleased to work with the Barn Hunt Association to recognize Barn Hunt titles on a dog’s AKC
record,” said Doug Ljungren, VP for Companion and Performance Events. “Barn Hunt is another great way
for dogs to test their instincts and for both owners and dogs to enjoy a fun activity together.”
• If owners choose to apply, Barn Hunt titles will appear on their dog’s AKC pedigree. The Barn Hunt title
application form and information regarding holding Barn Hunt in conjunction with AKC events can be
found on the AKC’s Title Recognition Program website.
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When to get help
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It is helpful for you to know your dog’s normal temperature and pulse in determining if there is
a problem or concern!
!
Temperature!
The normal temperature of a dog should be between 100.5 to 102.5.!
!
Pulse!
!
How to Take a Dog’s Pulse!
• Move your dog to, or get your dog to lie on it’s side.!
• Put your hand under the top back leg.!
• Find the crease that divides the leg from the body.!
• Put your index and middle fingers alongside the crease, that is where a main artery is located.!
• Count the pulse beats for a full minute. If you have difficulty you can count for
twenty seconds and multiply by three.!
!
Healthy Pulse Rates
The smaller the dog, the faster it’s pulse will be. If you believe your dog is in pain, or is ill, and
their pulse rate varies significantly from the chart below, bring your pet to a veterinarian for medical
assistance.
* Take the pulse at least two or three times over an hour’s time, as the first few times your pet
may get excited or upset at the unfamiliar handling, and that would change a normal pulse. Do Not
wait an hour if it is an emergency. Get them to the vet ASAP.
* allow at least a 5 to 10 beat variance due to generality of sizing chart * obesity and age of pet are both factors in gauging answer!
!
!
Small Dog - from 140 to 160 beats per minute!
!
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Medium Dog - from 120 to 140 beats per minute!
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Large Dog - from 60 to 80 beats per minute!
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As a dog owner or caretaker, you need to know when to contact your vet for help.!
!
Contact your veterinarian Immediately if your dog:!
!
Has signs of heart or respiratory disease including:
•
No pulse or heart beat
•
No breathing or severe difficulty breathing
•
Bluish or white gums or tongue
•
A near drowning
Has been exposed to a toxin or poison or has had trauma including:
•
A broken bone, or a cut that exposes a bone
•
Heavy bleeding that cannot be stopped
•
An eye injury, the eye is out of the socket, or appears enlarged or protruding
•
A fight, especially if it was with a cat or a wild, or unvaccinated animal
•
A wound from a bullet or arrow
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•
•
•
•
•
•
Being hit by a vehicle or other large fast-moving object
Puncture wounds to the abdomen or chest
Any trauma to the head
A bite from a snake, scorpion, or poisonous spider; or has bitten a toad
Porcupine quills imbedded in the mouth, face, or body
A broken tooth, or the loss of a healthy tooth, including the root (keep the tooth in a small jar
of milk)
•
A severe laceration, or an incision that has opened and the skin is gaping
•
Falling or jumping from an open window, balcony, etc.
•
Swelling of the face and/or hives
Has had heat or cold related injuries including:
•
Chewing on an electrical cord and receiving a shock or burn
•
Burns or inhaled smoke
•
Heat stroke or a fever over 105°F (normal is less than 102.5°F)
•
Frostbite or hypothermia
Has signs of gastrointestinal distress including:
•
Straining continually, but unable to produce feces
•
Bloat (abdomen appears large or dog attempts to vomit, but cannot bring anything up)
•
Choking
•
Vomiting blood or uncontrolled vomiting
•
Swallowing a foreign body (e.g., toy)
•
Diarrhea with blood, a foul smell, or that is uncontrolled
•
Black, tarry stool
•
A protruded rectum or bleeding from the rectum
•
An overdose of medication or suspected poisoning
Has signs of nervous system or muscular disease including:
•
Extreme lethargy or depression, unconsciousness, collapse, or coma
•
Seizures
•
A head tilt, nystagmus (eyes move rapidly from side to side), staggering, walking in circles,
knuckling over (walking on the top of the foot), unable to use hind limbs, or other problems
moving
•
Severe or continuous pain
•
Sudden inability to bear weight on one or more limbs
Has signs of urinary or reproductive problems including:
•
Difficulty giving birth: no puppy after 24 hours of beginning labor; no puppy after 1 hour of
active straining; over 4 hours between deliveries; weak or infrequent contractions once labor
has started; failed to start delivery within 24 hours of the temperature dropping below 99°F;
crying or licking the genital area excessively; abnormal bleeding or vaginal discharge;
weakness
•
A male in whom the penis is exposed and cannot be withdrawn back into the sheath (the
hair-covered area that usually encloses the penis)
•
Straining continually but unable to pass urine, or the urine has blood in it
•
Crying while trying to urinate
•
Bleeding from the urinary or genital area
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!
Contact your veterinarian the same day if your dog:
Has signs of heart or respiratory disease including:
•
Some difficulty breathing, shallow breathing, or breathing at a faster rate (unassociated with
physical exercise or environmental temperature)
•
Continuous sneezing or coughing
Has signs related to digestion or food and water consumption including:
•
Not eating or drinking for 24 hours
•
Vomiting or diarrhea for more than 24 hours and acting depressed
•
Drinking water excessively, unrelated to activity or environmental temperature
Has signs of nervous system or muscular disease including:
•
Sudden change in behavior
•
Crying when touched or picked up
•
Cloudy eyes, squinting, or appears to be unable to see
•
Sudden, severe lameness
Has signs of urinary or reproductive problems including:
•
A retained afterbirth for over 8 hours
•
A female who has had an unwanted breeding
•
A female who is pregnant or nursing her young and develops a red, swollen, or painful breast
•
A male with swollen testicles or scrotum
Has signs associated with the skin including:
•
A rash, excessive shedding, excessive head shaking, or persistent scratching or chewing at
spots on the body
•
Abnormal lumps or bumps that are painful, red, and/or hot to the touch
•
Maggots
•
A nosebleed for no apparent reason, bruising easily, or tiny red dots on the skin
!
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Contact your veterinarian in 24 hours if your dog has signs
including:
Has signs related to digestion or food and water consumption including:
•
Not eating, but no other signs of illness
•
A soft stool, but there is no pain, blood, fetid odor, green or black color, mucus, or straining
•
Occasional vomiting (2 or 3 times), but no abdominal pain or blood
•
Foul breath
•
Sudden weight gain or loss
•
Drooling
Has signs of nervous system or muscular disease including:
•
Lameness for more than 24 hours
•
Swollen joints
•
Lethargy, depression, sleeping more than usual, unwillingness to play or exercise
Has signs associated with the skin including:
•
Moderate itching or an unpleasant odor from the coat
•
A discharge from the eye, ear, or other body opening
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Bloat
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Gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) is also known as "bloat," "stomach torsion," or "twisted
stomach." Bloat is an extremely serious condition, and should be considered a life-threatening
emergency when it occurs. There are not home remedies for bloat, therefore dog owners must
contact their veterinarians immediately if they suspect that their dog has bloat. Dogs can die of bloat
within several hours. Even with treatment, as many as 25-33% of dogs with GDV die.!
!
Bloat is a very serious and life threatening condition. Understanding the signs, prevention,
and need for prompt treatment will help reduce the risk of mortality if your dog develops this
problem.!
!
What dogs are more susceptible?!
!
Breed - There is a definite link between the likelihood of occurrence of GDV and the breed
and build of the dog. GDV is much more likely to occur in large breeds with deep, narrow chests.
The problem can occur in small dogs, but only rarely. By one study, Great Danes were the highest
risk of bloat by breed.!
!
Age - !Dogs over 7 years of age are more than twice as likely to develop gastric dilatation
and volvulus as those who are 2-4 years of age.!
!
Gender - Male dogs are twice as likely to develop gastric dilatation and volvulus as females.
Neutering does not appear to have an effect on the risk of bloat.!
!
Eating habits - Dogs fed once a day are twice as likely to develop GDV as those fed twice a
day. It appears that dogs who eat rapidly or exercise soon after a meal may also be at increased
risk.!
!
Temperament - Dogs that tend to be more nervous, anxious, or fearful appear to be at an
increased risk of developing bloat.!
!
What are the signs? - The most obvious signs are abdominal distention (swollen belly) and
nonproductive vomiting (animal appears to be vomiting, but nothing comes up) and retching. Other
signs include restlessness, abdominal pain, and rapid shallow breathing. Profuse salivation may
indicate severe pain. If the dog's condition continues to deteriorate, especially if volvulus has
occurred, the dog may go into shock and become pale, have a weak pulse, a rapid heart rate, and
eventually collapse. A dog with gastric dilatation without volvulus can show all of these signs, but the
more severe signs are likely to occur in dogs with both dilatation and volvulus.!
!
!
!
• Owners of susceptible breeds should be aware of the early signs of bloat and contact their
veterinarian as soon as possible.!
• Owners of susceptible breeds should develop a good working relationship with a local
veterinarian in case emergency care is needed.!
• Large dogs should be fed two or three times daily, rather than once a day.!
• Water should be available at all times, but should be limited immediately after feeding.!
• Vigorous exercise, excitement, and stress should be avoided one hour before and two hours
after meals.!
• Diet changes should be made gradually over a period of three to five days.!
• Susceptible dogs should be fed individually and, if possible in a quiet location.!
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Microchipping
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Despite your best efforts, your dog can slip out an open door and disappear. If he's wearing a collar
and identification tag, chances are good that you’ll get him back. But what if the collar comes off? To protect
their pets in this scenario, many owners turn to technology in the form of microchips implanted in their pets.
But don't rely on a microchip alone to protect your pet. In the event of accidental separation, identification
tags are your pet's first ticket home. Microchips provide an extra level of protection in case your pet loses his
collar and tags. Providing your cat or dog with both tags and a microchip can help ensure a happy reunion if
the unthinkable happens and your companion gets lost.
Microchips are tiny transponders, about the size of a grain of rice, that use radio frequency waves to
transmit information about your pet. They're implanted just under the skin,, usually right between the shoulder
blades. Each microchip contains a registration number and the phone number of the registry for the particular
brand of chip. A handheld scanner reads the radio frequency of the chip and displays this information. The
animal shelter or vet clinic that finds your pet can contact the registry to get your name and phone number.
Your pet's subcutaneous tissue usually bonds to the chip within 24 hours, preventing it from moving,
although there's a small chance that the chip could migrate. But it can't actually get lost inside your pet.
Microchips are designed to work for 25 years. Many veterinarians and some animal shelters implant
microchips for a small fee. This is done with a large-bore needle and doesn't require anesthesia. But—and this
is very important—just getting a microchip isn't enough—you also need to register your pet with the
microchip company.
Complete the paperwork that comes with the chip and send it to the registry, or do it online if that
option is available. Some companies charge a one-time registration fee while others charge an annual fee.
You’ll also receive a tag for your pet’s collar with the chip number and registry phone number.
Competing microchip companies use different frequencies to send signals to scanners, and for a while
there was no universal scanner that could read all the different frequencies. Many microchip companies now
produce universal scanners and provide them to animal shelters and animal control agencies at no or very low
cost. If your local shelters don’t have scanners, they can contact some of the major manufacturers to ask about
getting one.
Different chip companies maintained separate databases. Now, some chip companies will register pets
with any brand of chip Also, the American Microchip Advisory Council is working to develop a network of
the registry databases to streamline the return of pets to their families.
You need to contact the company that registers the chip to update your information; otherwise, the chip
will be useless. You may be charged a small fee to process the update. The microchip is of little value if you
don’t register the pet and keep the information updated if you move of change your phone number.
A microchip could reunite you with your pet if it is lost and better yet could save the pets life if it
ended up in a shelter.
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AVMA Links
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Source references taken from the American Veterinary Medical Association web site at
www.AVMA.org
The following are the links if you want to view the sources directly from the web site.
!
What you should know about Spaying and Neutering!
http://www.avma.org/animal_health/brochures/spay_neuter/spay_neuter_brochure.asp
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What you Should know about cancer in animals
http://www.avma.org/animal_health/brochures/cancer/cancer_brochure.asp
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What you Should know about canine distemper
http://www.avma.org/animal_health/brochures/canine_distemper/distemper_brochure.asp
!
What you should know about Canine Parvovirus
http://www.avma.org/animal_health/brochures/canine_parvo/parvo_brochure.asp
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What you should know about dog bite prevention
http://www.avma.org/animal_health/brochures/dog_bite/dog_bite_brochure.asp
!
What you should know about external parasites
http://www.avma.org/animal_health/brochures/external_parasites/external_parasites_brochure.asp
!
What you should know about internal parasites in cats and dogs
http://www.avma.org/animal_health/brochures/internal_parasites/cat_dog/
internalparasites_brochure.asp
!
What you should know about Heartworm disease
http://www.avma.org/animal_health/brochures/heartworm/heartworm_brochure.asp
!
What you should know about vaccinations
http://www.avma.org/animal_health/brochures/vaccination/vaccination_brochure.asp
!
What you should know about Rabies
http://www.avma.org/animal_health/brochures/rabies/rabies_brochure.asp
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What you should know about Household Hazards to pets
http://www.avma.org/animal_health/brochures/hazards/household_brochure.asp
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What you should know about Spaying and Neutering!
Is there a pet population problem?!
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Every year, millions of unwanted dogs and cats, including puppies and kittens, are needlessly
euthanized. The good news is that every pet owner can make a difference. By having your dog or
cat surgically sterilized, you will do your part to prevent the birth of unwanted puppies and kittens
and enhance your pet's health and quality of life.!
!
What about pet behavior and pet reproduction?!
!
Contrary to what some people believe, getting pregnant — even once — does not improve
the behavior of female dogs and cats. In fact, the mating instinct may lead to undesirable behaviors
and result in undue stress on both the owner and the animal. Also, while some pet owners may
have good intentions, few are prepared for the work involved in monitoring their pet's pregnancy,
caring for the puppies or kittens and locating good homes for them.!
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What is surgical sterilization?!
!
During surgical sterilization, a veterinarian removes certain reproductive organs. If your cat or
dog is a female, the veterinarian will usually remove her ovaries, fallopian tubes, and uterus. The
medical name for this surgery is an ovariohysterectomy, although it is commonly called "spaying." If
your pet is a male, the testicles are removed and the operation is called an orchiectomy, commonly
referred to as castration or simply "neutering."!
!
While both spaying and neutering are major surgical procedures, they are also the most
common surgeries performed by veterinarians on cats and dogs. Before the procedure, your pet is
given a thorough physical examination to ensure that it is in good health. General anesthesia is
administered during the surgery and medications are given to minimize pain. You will be asked to
keep your pet calm and quiet for a few days after surgery until the incision begins to heal.!
What are the benefits to society of spaying and neutering?!
!
Both surgeries prevent unwanted litters and eliminate many of the behavioral problems
associated with the mating instinct.!
!
What are the benefits to spaying my female pet?!
!
Female dogs experience a "heat" cycle approximately every six months, depending upon the
breed. A female dog's heat cycle can last as long as 21 days, during which your dog may leave
blood stains in the house and may become anxious, short-tempered and actively seek a mate. A
female dog in heat may be more likely to fight with other female dogs, including other females in the
same household.!
!
Female cats can come into heat every two weeks during breeding season until they become
pregnant. During this time they may engage in behaviors such as frequent yowling and urination in
unacceptable places.!
!
Spaying eliminates heat cycles and generally reduces the unwanted behaviors that may lead
to owner frustration and, ultimately, a decision to relinquish the pet to a shelter. Most importantly,
early spaying of female dogs and cats can help protect them from some serious health problems
later in life such as uterine infections and breast cancer.!
!
What are the benefits of neutering my male pet?!
!
At maturity (on average, 6 to 9 months of age), male dogs and cats are capable of breeding.
Both male dogs and cats are likely to begin "marking" their territories by spraying strong-smelling
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urine on your furniture, curtains, and in other places in your house. Also, given the slightest chance,
intact males may attempt to escape from home and roam in search of a mate. Dogs and cats
seeking a female in heat can become aggressive and may injure themselves, other animals, or
people by engaging in fights. Roaming animals are also more likely to be hit by cars.!
!
Neutering male dogs and cats reduces the breeding instinct and can have a calming effect,
making them less inclined to roam and more content to stay at home. Neutering your male pet can
also lessen its risk of developing prostate disease and testicular cancer.!
!
Are there risks associated with the surgery?!
!
Like any surgical procedure, sterilization is associated with some anesthetic and surgical risk,
but the overall incidence of complications is very low. Because changes in concentrations of
reproductive hormones may affect your pet's risk of developing certain diseases and conditions in
the future, your veterinarian will advise you on both the benefits and risks of the sterilization
procedure.!
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What is the best age to spay or neuter my pet?!
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Consult with your veterinarian about the most appropriate time to spay or neuter your pet
based upon its breed, age and physical condition Keep in mind that, contrary to popular belief, it is
NOT best to wait until your female dog or cat has gone through its first heat cycle.!
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Will the surgery affect my pet's disposition or metabolism?!
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The procedure has no effect on a pet's intelligence or ability to learn, play, work or hunt. Most
pets tend to be better behaved following the surgery, making them more desirable companions.
Also, this surgery will not make your pet fat. Feeding your pet a balanced diet and providing regular
exercise will help keep your pet at a healthy weight and prevent the health risks associated with
obesity. Ask your veterinarian to advise you on the best diet and exercise plan for each stage of
your pet's life.!
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Is the expense for the surgery really worth it?!
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Yes! This is a one-time expense that can dramatically improve your pet's quality of life and
prevent some behavioral frustrations for you. If you are still uncertain whether or not to proceed with
the surgery, consider the expense to society of collecting and caring for all the unwanted, abused,
or abandoned animals being housed in shelters!
Having your pet spayed or neutered is a part of responsible pet ownership.!
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What you Should know about cancer in animals!
What are Neoplasia, Tumors and Cancer?
Neoplasia (nee-oh-PLAY-zhuh) is the uncontrolled, abnormal growth of cells or tissues in the body,
and the abnormal growth itself is called a neoplasm (nee-oh-PLAZ-m) or tumor. It can be benign (bee-NINE)
or malignant. Benign neoplasms do not grow aggressively, do not invade the surrounding body tissues, and do
not spread throughout the body. Malignant neoplasms, on the other hand, tend to grow rapidly, invade the
tissues around them, and spread, or metastasize (me-TAS-ta-size), to other parts of the body.
The word "tumor" or "mass" is often used to describe the actual swelling or other physical appearance of a
neoplasm. The word "cancer" is often confused with neoplasia, but only malignant neoplasms are truly
cancers.
How Common are Neoplasia and Cancer?
Neoplasia is common in pet animals and the incidence increases with age. Cancer accounts for almost
half of the deaths of pets over 10 years of age. Dogs get cancer at roughly the same rate as humans, while cats
get fewer cancers.
How is it Diagnosed?
Neoplasia is often suspected on the basis of the pet's medical history and physical exam. Additional
tests, such as radiographs (x-rays), blood tests, and ultrasound exams, may be necessary to confirm neoplasia.
A biopsy (BYE-op-see), taking a tissue sample from the neoplasm for examination under a microscope, is
usually necessary to confirm the diagnosis and help determine if the neoplasm is benign or malignant.
Additional biopsies of other tissues, such as lymph nodes, may be necessary to determine how far a malignant
neoplasm (cancer) has spread.
Is Neoplasia Preventable?
Unfortunately, the cause of most neoplastic diseases is not known and, therefore, prevention is
difficult. Early detection and treatment are the best ways to manage neoplasia in pets.
Common Types of Neoplasia in Pets
Skin - Skin tumors are very common in older dogs, but much less common in cats. Most skin tumors
in cats are malignant, but in dogs they are often benign. Your veterinarian should examine all skin tumors in a
dog or cat to determine if any are malignant.
Mammary Gland (Breast) - 50% of all breast tumors in dogs and greater than 85% of all breast tumors
in cats are malignant. Spaying your female pet before 12 months of age will greatly reduce the risk of
mammary gland cancer.
Head & Neck - Neoplasia of the mouth is common in dogs and less common in cats. Signs to watch
for are a mass or tumor on the gums, bleeding, odor, or difficulty eating. Since many swellings are malignant,
early, aggressive treatment is essential. Neoplasia may also develop inside the nose of both cats and dogs.
Bleeding from the nose, breathing difficulty, or facial swelling are signs that may indicate neoplasia and
should be checked by your veterinarian.
Lymphoma - Lymphoma is a common form of neoplasia in dogs and cats. It is characterized by
enlargement of one or many lymph nodes in the body. A contagious feline leukemia virus can be the cause of
lymphoma in some cats.
Testicles - Testicular tumors are rare in cats and common in dogs, especially those with retained
testicles (testicles that did not move to their normal positions during growth, and may be located in the
abdomen or between the abdomen and scrotum).
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Abdominal Tumors - Tumors inside the abdomen are common but it is difficult to make an early
diagnosis. Weight loss or abdominal swelling are signs of these tumors.
Bone - Bone tumors are most often seen in large breed dogs and dogs older than seven years, and
rarely in cats. The leg bones, near joints, are the most common sites. Persistent pain, lameness, and swelling in
the affected area are common signs of the disease.
Many of the above signs are also seen with non-neoplastic conditions but they still need prompt
attention by a veterinarian to determine the cause. Neoplasia is frequently treatable and early diagnosis will
aid your veterinarian in delivering the best care possible.
How is Cancer Treated?
Each type of neoplasia requires individual care and may include one or a combination of treatment
therapies such as surgery, chemotherapy, radiation, cryosurgery (freezing), hyperthermia (heating) or
immunotherapy. Your pet's overall health is important too, and your veterinarian may recommend dietary
changes or other things to help your pet better respond to treatment. Once you have a diagnosis, your
veterinarian will discuss the best treatment option(s) for your pet and the risks and side effects associated with
each option. Pain management is also an important part of treatment. In some instances, your veterinarian may
refer you to a board-certified oncologist (cancer specialist) and/or specialty clinic depending upon the
recommended course of treatment.
Some types of neoplasia can be cured, but other types can only be managed to decrease spread and
prolong your pet's comfort and life as much as possible. How early a neoplasm is detected and the type of
neoplasm are often the biggest factors determining the success of treatment.
Sometimes, euthanasia is considered when a pet has neoplasia (especially with some cancers). Before
you make your decision for treatment or euthanasia, discuss the options with your veterinarian so you can
make the best choice for your pet and your family.
What is the Success Rate?
This strongly depends upon the type and extent of the neoplasia, as well as the aggressiveness of
therapy. Benign neoplasms are usually easier to treat, and treatment of any type of neoplasia is more likely to
be successful if the neoplasms are detected early. Although some neoplasms (especially the more aggressive
cancers) cannot be cured, treatment can prolong your pet's life and improve their quality of life.
What Will the Future Bring?
We are learning more about neoplasia through research and experience. Animals today have a better
chance of being successfully treated for neoplasia and cancer than they did before, and the more we learn
about it, the more pets' lives we can improve and save.
New diagnostic methods can help detect neoplasia earlier and improve your pet's chances, and new
treatment methods are being developed to provide better success rates with less risk of side effects.
10 Common Signs of Neoplasia in Small Animals
• Abnormal swellings that persist or continue to grow
• Sores that do not heal
• Weight loss
• Loss of appetite
• Bleeding or discharge from any body opening
• Offensive odor
• Difficulty eating or swallowing
• Hesitation to exercise or loss of stamina
• Persistent lameness or stiffness
• Difficulty breathing, urinating, or defecating
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What you Should know about canine distemper!
What is Canine Distemper?!
!
Canine distemper is a highly contagious and serious disease caused by a virus that attacks
the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and, often, the nervous systems of puppies and dogs. The virus
also infects wild canids (e.g. foxes, wolves, coyotes), raccoons, skunks, and ferrets.!
!
How is Canine Distemper virus spread?!
!
Puppies and dogs usually become infected through airborne exposure to the virus contained
in respiratory secretions of an infected dog or wild animal. Outbreaks of distemper tend to be
sporadic. Because canine distemper also affects wildlife populations, contact between wild and
domestic canids may facilitate spread of the virus.!
!
What dogs are at risk?!
!
All dogs are at risk but puppies younger than four months old and dogs that have not been
vaccinated against canine distemper are at increased risk of acquiring the disease.!
!
What are some signs of Canine Distemper?!
!
The first sign of distemper is eye discharge that may appear watery to pus-like.
Subsequently, dogs develop fever, nasal discharge, coughing, lethargy, reduced appetite, vomiting,
and diarrhea. In later stages, the virus may attack the nervous system, bringing about seizures,
twitching, or partial or complete paralysis. !
!
!
Occasionally, the virus may cause footpads to harden. Distemper is often fatal. Even if a dog
does not die from the disease, canine distemper virus can cause irreparable damage to a dog's
nervous system. Distemper is so serious and the signs so varied that any sick dog should be taken
to a veterinarian for an examination and diagnosis.!
!
How is Canine Distemper diagnosed and treated?!
!
Veterinarians diagnose canine distemper on the basis of clinical appearance and laboratory
tests. No specific drug is available that will kill the virus in infected dogs. Treatment consists
primarily of efforts to prevent secondary infections; control vomiting, diarrhea, or neurologic
symptoms; and combat dehydration through administration of fluids. Ill dogs should be kept warm,
receive good nursing care, and be separated from other dogs.!
!
How is Canine Distemper prevented?!
!
Vaccination and avoiding contact with infected animals are key elements of canine distemper
prevention.!
!
Vaccination is important. Young puppies are very susceptible to infection, particularly
because the natural immunity provided in their mothers' milk may wear off before the puppies' own
immune systems are mature enough to fight off infection. If a puppy is exposed to canine distemper
virus during this gap in protection, it may become ill. An additional concern is that immunity provided
by a mother's milk may interfere with an effective response to vaccination. This means even
vaccinated puppies may occasionally succumb to distemper. To narrow gaps in protection and
optimally defend against canine distemper during the first few months of life, a series of
vaccinations is administered.!
!
Until a puppy has received its complete series of vaccinations, pet owners should use
caution when taking their pet to places where young puppies congregate (e.g. pet shops, parks,
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puppy classes, obedience classes, doggy daycare, and grooming establishments). Reputable
establishments and training programs reduce exposure risk by requiring vaccinations, health
examinations, good hygiene, and isolation of ill puppies and dogs.!
!
To protect their adult dogs, pet owners should be sure that their dog's distemper vaccination
is up-to-date. Ask your veterinarian about a recommended vaccination program for your canine
companion.!
Contact with known infected dogs should always be avoided. Similarly, contact with raccoons,
foxes, skunks, and other potentially infected wildlife should be discouraged.!
!
!
!
Although this brochure provides basic information about canine distemper, your veterinarian is
always your best source of health information. Consult your veterinarian for more information about
canine distemper and its prevention.!
!
!
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!
!
What you should know about Canine Parvovirus!
What is canine parvovirus?
Canine parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2) is a highly contagious and serious disease caused by a virus that
attacks the gastrointestinal tract of puppies, dogs, and wild canids (e.g. foxes, wolves, coyotes). It was first
identified in 1978 and is seen worldwide. It also can damage the heart muscle in very young and unborn
puppies.
There are several variants of CPV-2 (CPV-2a, CPV-2b, CPV-2c) based on analysis of the genetics of
the virus, but they produce similar signs in animals. CPV-2b is the most common variant in the US. CPV-2c
was first confirmed in the U.S. in 2006, and is becoming the second most common variant.
!
How is parvovirus spread?
CPV-2 is highly contagious and is spread by direct dog-to-dog contact and contact with contaminated
feces (stool), environments or people. The virus can also contaminate kennel surfaces, food and water bowls,
collars and leashes, and the hands and clothing of people who handle infected dogs. It is resistant to heat, cold,
humidity, and drying, and can survived in the environment for long periods of time. Even trace amounts of
feces containing parvovirus may serve as environmental reservoirs of the virus and infect other dogs that
come into the infected environment. CPV-2 is readily transmitted from place to place on the hair or feet of
dogs or via contaminated cages, shoes, or other objects.
!
What dogs are at risk?
All dogs are at risk, but puppies less than four months old and dogs that have not been vaccinated
against canine parvovirus are at increased risk of becoming infected and ill.
!
What are some signs of parvovirus infection?
Dogs infected with the CPV-2 virus that are ill are often said to have "parvo." CPV-2 infection causes
lethargy; loss of appetite; fever; vomiting; and severe, often bloody, diarrhea. Vomiting and diarrhea can cause
rapid dehydration, and most deaths from parvovirus occur within 48 to 72 hours following the onset of
clinical signs. If your puppy or dog shows any of these signs, you should contact your veterinarian
immediately.
!
How is canine parvovirus diagnosed and treated?
CPV-2 infection is often suspected based on the dog's history, physical examination, and laboratory
tests. Fecal testing can confirm the diagnosis.
No specific drug is available that will kill the virus in infected dogs, and treatment is intended to
support the dog's body systems until the dog's immune system can fight off the viral infection. Treatment
should be started immediately and consists primarily of efforts to combat dehydration by replacing electrolyte
and fluid losses, controlling vomiting and diarrhea, and preventing secondary infections. Sick dogs should be
kept warm and receive good nursing care. When a dog develops parvo, treatment can be very expensive, and
the dog may die despite aggressive treatment. Early recognition and aggressive treatment are very important
in successful outcomes.
Since CPV-2 is highly contagious, isolation of infected dogs is necessary to minimize spread of
infection. Proper cleaning and disinfection of contaminated kennels and other areas where infected dogs are
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(or have been) housed is essential to control the spread of parvovirus. The virus is not easily killed, so consult
your veterinarian for specific guidance on cleaning and disinfecting agents.
!
How is parvovirus prevented?
Vaccination and good hygiene are critical components of canine parvovirus prevention.
Vaccination is extremely important. Young puppies are very susceptible to infection, particularly because the
natural immunity provided in their mothers' milk may wear off before the puppies' own immune systems are
mature enough to fight off infection. If a puppy is exposed to canine parvovirus during this gap in protection,
it may become ill. An additional concern is that immunity provided by a mother's milk may interfere with an
effective response to vaccination. This means even vaccinated puppies may occasionally be infected by
parvovirus and develop disease. To reduce gaps in protection and provide the best protection against
parvovirus during the first few months of life, a series of puppy vaccinations are administered. Puppies should
receive a dose of canine parvovirus vaccine between 14 and 16 weeks of age, regardless of how many doses
they received earlier, to develop adequate protection.
To protect their adult dogs, pet owners should be sure that their dog's parvovirus vaccination is up-todate. Ask your veterinarian about a recommended vaccination program for your canine companion.
In spite of proper vaccination, a small percentage of dogs do not develop protective immunity and
remain susceptible to infection.
Hygiene—Until a puppy has received its complete series of vaccinations, pet owners should use caution when
bringing their pet to places where young puppies congregate (e.g. pet shops, parks, puppy classes, obedience
classes, doggy daycare, kennels, and grooming establishments). Reputable establishments and training
programs reduce exposure risk by requiring vaccinations, health examinations, good hygiene, and isolation of
ill puppies and dogs. Contact with known infected dogs and their premises should always be avoided.
Finally, do not allow your puppy or dog to come into contact with the fecal waste of other dogs while
walking or playing outdoors. Prompt and proper disposal of waste material is always advisable as a way to
limit spread of canine parvovirus infection as well as other diseases that can infect humans and animals. Dogs
with vomiting or diarrhea or other dogs which have been exposed to ill dogs should not be taken to kennels,
show grounds, dog parks, or other areas where they will come into contact with other dogs. Similarly,
unvaccinated dogs should not be exposed to ill dogs or those with unknown vaccination histories. People who
are in contact with sick or exposed dogs should avoid handling of other dogs or at least wash their hands and
change their clothes before doing so.
!
!
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What you should know about dog bite prevention!
!
Any dog can bite
Even the cuddliest, fuzziest, sweetest pup can bite if provoked. Most people are bitten by their own
dog or one they know. Some owners actually promote aggression in their dogs or allow aggression to go
unchecked.
Although media reports and rumors often give the impression that certain breeds of dog are more
likely to bite, there is little scientific evidence to support those claims.
From nips to bites to actual attacks, dog bites are a serious problem. Dog bite victims requiring
medical attention in the United States number approximately 800,000 annually. Countless more bite injuries
go untreated. On average, about a dozen people die each year from dog bite injuries. Fortunately, there are
steps we can take to address this problem.
!
Who's being bitten?
The number of recorded dog bite injuries is significantly higher in children than adults. The elderly
and home service providers such as mail carriers and meter readers are also high on the list of frequent dog
bite victims. CAUTION: Never leave a baby or child alone with a dog.
!
What's a dog owner to do?
• Carefully select your pet. Puppies should not be obtained on impulse. Before and after selection, your
veterinarian is your best source for information about behavior, health and suitability.
• Make sure your pet is socialized as a young puppy so it feels at ease around people and other animals.
Gradually expose your puppy to a variety of situations under controlled circumstances; continue that
exposure on a regular basis as your dog gets older. Don't put your dog in a position where it feels
threatened or teased.
• Wait until your child is older. Because so many dog bite injuries happen to young children, it is
suggested that parents wait to get a dog until children are older than 4 years of age.
!
Train your dog. The basic commands "sit," "stay," "no," and "come" can be incorporated into fun activities
that build a bond of obedience and trust between pets and people. Avoid highly excitable games like wrestling
or tug-of-war. Use a leash in public to ensure you are able to control your dog.
Keep your dog healthy. Have your dog vaccinated against rabies and preventable infectious diseases.
Parasite control and other health care are important because how your dog feels directly affects how it
behaves.
Neuter your pet. The available science suggests neutered dogs may be less likely to bite.
Be a responsible pet owner. License your dog with your community as required. Obey leash laws. If you
have a fenced yard, make sure the gates are secure. Dogs are social animals; spending time with your pet is
important. Dogs that are frequently left alone have a greater chance of developing behavioral problems. Walk
and exercise your dog regularly to keep it healthy and provide mental stimulation.
Be alert. Know your dog. Be alert to signs of illness. Also watch for signs your dog is uncomfortable or
behaving aggressively.
!
How can my family and I avoid being bitten?
Be cautious around strange dogs and treat your own pet with respect. Because children are the most
common victims of dog bites, parents and caregivers should:
• NEVER leave a baby or small child alone with a dog.
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• Be alert for potentially dangerous situations.
• Teach their children – including toddlers – to be careful around pets.
• Children must be taught NOT to approach strange dogs or try to pet dogs by reaching through fences.
Teach children to ask permission from the dog's owner before petting the dog.
• Other tips that may prevent or stop a dog attack
• Don't run past a dog.
Dogs naturally love to chase and catch things. Don't give them a reason to be come excited or
aggressive.
• Never disturb a dog that's caring for puppies, sleeping or eating.
• Never reach through or over a fence to pet a dog.
Dogs can be protective of their territory, and may interpret your action as a threat.
• If a dog approaches to sniff you, stay still.
In most cases, the dog will go away when it determines you are not a threat.
• If you are threatened by a dog, remain calm.
Don't scream or yell. If you say anything, speak calmly and firmly. Avoid eye contact. Try to stay still
until the dog leaves, or back away slowly until the dog is out of sight. Don't turn and run.
• If you fall or are knocked to the ground, curl into a ball with your hands over your head and neck.
Protect your face.
!
What should I do if my dog bites someone?
• Even if the bite can be explained (e.g., someone stepped on your dog's tail), it's important to take
responsibility for your dog's actions by taking these steps:
• Restrain the dog immediately. Separate it from the scene of the attack. Confine it.
• Check on the victim's condition. Wash wounds with soap and water. Unseen damage can occur with
bites, and can lead to complications. Professional medical advice should be sought to evaluate bite
wounds and the risk of rabies or other infections. Call 911 if a response by paramedics is required.
• Provide important information including your name, address and information about your dog's most
recent rabies vaccination. If your dog does not have a current rabies vaccination, it may be necessary to
quarantine it or even euthanize it for rabies testing. The person bitten may need to undergo postexposure prophylaxis.
• Comply with local ordinances regarding reporting of dog bites.
• Consult your veterinarian for advice about dog behavior that will help prevent similar problems in the
future.
!
IF YOU are bitten
If your own dog bit you, confine it immediately and call your veterinarian to check your dog's
vaccination records. Consult with your veterinarian about your dog's aggressive action. Your veterinarian can
examine your dog to make sure it is healthy, and can help you with information or training that may prevent
more bites.
If someone else's dog bit you, first seek medical treatment for your wound. Next, contact authorities
and tell them everything you can about the dog: the owner's name, if you know it; the color and size of the
dog; where you encountered the dog; and if, where, and when you've seen it before. These details may help
animal-control officers locate the dog. In addition, consider asking your physician if post-exposure rabies
prophylaxis may be necessary.
Dogs are wonderful companions. By acting responsibly, owners not only reduce dog bite injuries, but
also enhance the relationship they have with their dog.
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What you should know about external parasites!
!
!
At some point in their lives, many pets experience discomfort caused by external parasites
such as fleas, ticks, or mites on their skin or in their ears. These parasites can be extremely irritating
to pets and can cause serious skin problems or even carry disease. Although this brochure provides
basic information about the most common external parasites, your veterinarian is your best source
of advice regarding your pet's needs. Modern medicines make treatment, control, and prevention of
many external parasites much easier than in the past.!
!
Fleas!
!
Flea Basics
!
Fleas thrive when the weather is warm and humid. Depending on your climate, fleas may be
a seasonal or year-round problem. Your pet can pick up fleas wherever an infestation exists, often in
areas frequented by other cats and dogs. Adult fleas are dark brown, no bigger than a sesame
seed, and able to move rapidly over your pet's skin.!
!
Once the flea becomes an adult, it spends virtually all of its time on your pet. Female fleas
begin laying eggs within 24 hours of selecting your pet as a host, producing up to 50 eggs each day.
These eggs fall from your pet onto the floor or furniture, including your pet's bed, or onto any other
indoor or outdoor area where your pet happens to go. Tiny, worm-like larvae hatch from the eggs
and burrow into carpets, under furniture, or into soil before spinning a cocoon. The cocooned flea
pupae can lie dormant (inactive) for weeks before emerging as adults that are ready to infest (or
reinfest) your pet. The result is a flea life cycle of anywhere from 12 days to 6 months, depending on
environmental factors such as temperature and humidity.!
!
Diagnosis, Risks and Consequences
!
You may not know that your pet has fleas until their number increases to the point that your
pet is obviously uncomfortable. Signs of flea problems range from mild redness to severe scratching
that can lead to open sores and skin infections ("hot spots"). One of the first things you may notice
on a pet with fleas is "flea dirt" — the black flea droppings left on your pet's coat. You may not
actually see the fleas themselves, but they can still be on your pet and in the environment.!
!
Fleas bite animals and suck their blood; young or small pets with heavy flea infestations may
become anemic. Some pets can develop an allergy to flea saliva that may result in more severe
irritation and scratching; these pets can become severely itchy from just one or two flea bites. Also,
pets can become infected with certain types of tapeworms if they ingest fleas carrying tapeworm
eggs (a pet using its teeth to scratch the flea bites often eats the fleas). In areas with moderate to
severe flea infestations, people may also be bitten by fleas. While fleas are capable of transmitting
several infectious diseases to pets and people, this is rare.!
!
Treatment and Control
!
Your veterinarian will recommend an appropriate flea control plan for your pet based on your
needs, your pet's needs and the severity of the flea infestation.!
!
Pets at risk for fleas should be treated during the flea season with an appropriate preventive.
Your veterinarian can recommend a product most suitable for your pet.!
!
Because much of the flea's life cycle is spent off of your pet, treating only your pet will not
eliminate the problem. If you kill the adult fleas and do not kill the eggs, larvae and pupae, your pet
will become reinfested when these fleas become adults and the cycle will start all over again.
Therefore, in addition to treating your pet, reduce the flea population in your house by thoroughly
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cleaning your pet's sleeping quarters and vacuuming floors and furniture that your pet comes in
contact with frequently. Careful and regular vacuuming/cleaning of the pet's living area helps to
remove and kill flea eggs, larvae, and pupae.!
!
You may be advised to treat your house with insecticides to kill the fleas; consult with your
veterinarian about products safe for use around pets and children. Flea larvae are more resistant
than adult fleas to insecticides. With moderate and severe flea infestations, you may also be
advised to treat your yard. Your veterinarian can recommend an appropriate course of action and
suggest ways to prevent future flea infestations.!
!
Ticks!
!
Tick Basics
!
Ticks are commonly found in wooded areas, brush, shrubs and wild undergrowth, and any
animal (or human, for that matter) that enters these environments is at risk of becoming a tick's
host. Immature ticks often feed on small, wild animals found in forests, prairies, and brush. Adult
ticks seek larger hosts like dogs and cats which venture into these habitats. Tick exposure may be
seasonal, depending on geographic location. There are many different species of ticks that can
affect dogs and cats.!
!
Diagnosis, Risks and Consequences
!
Ticks are most often found around your dog's neck, in the ears, in the folds between the legs
and the body, and between the toes, but they can be found anywhere on the body and are usually
easily seen or felt. Cats may have ticks on their neck or face. Tick bites can cause skin irritation and
heavy infestations can cause anemia in pets. An adult female tick can ingest up to 100 times her
weight in blood! Ticks are also capable of spreading serious infectious diseases (such as Lyme
disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, and others) to the pets and the people on which they feed.
They can also cause tick paralysis. Disease risk varies by geographic area and tick species.!
!
Treatment and Control
!
Prompt removal of ticks is very important because it lessens the chance of disease
transmission from the tick to your pet. Remove ticks by carefully using tweezers to firmly grip the
tick as close to the pet's skin as possible and gently and steadily pulling the tick free without twisting
it or crushing the tick during removal. Crushing, twisting or jerking the tick out of the skin while its
head is still buried could result in leaving the tick's mouth parts in your pet's skin; this can cause a
reaction and may become infected. After removing the tick, crush it while avoiding contact with tick
fluids that can carry disease. Do not attempt to smother the tick with alcohol or petroleum jelly, or
apply a hot match to it, as this may cause the tick to regurgitate saliva into the wound and increase
the risk of disease if the tick is infected.!
!
Pets at risk for ticks should be treated during the tick season with an appropriate preventive.
Your veterinarian can recommend a product best suited to your pet's needs. Owners who take their
pets to tick-prone areas during camping, sporting, or hiking trips should examine their pets for ticks
immediately upon returning home and remove them from their pets. If your pet picks up ticks in your
backyard, trimming bushes and removing brush may reduce your pet's exposure and risk of
infestation. And, if you find ticks on your pet, don't forget to check yourself for ticks, too!!
!
!
!
!
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Ear Mites!
!
Mite Basics
!
Ear mites are common in young cats and dogs, and generally confine themselves to the ears
and surrounding area. Mites are tiny and individual mites may be seen only with the aid of a
microscope. Your pet can pick up ear mites by close contact with an infested pet or its bedding.!
!
Diagnosis, Risks and Consequences
!
Ear mites can cause intense irritation of the ear canal. Signs of ear mite infestation include
excessive head shaking and scratching of the ears. Your pet may scratch to the point that it creates
bleeding sores around its ears. Excessive scratching can also cause breakage of blood vessels in
the earflap, causing the formation of a pocket of blood (an aural hematoma) that may require
surgery. A brown or black ear discharge is common with ear mite infections, and secondary
infections with bacteria or yeast can occur. A swab of the discharge is usually examined under a
microscope to confirm the presence of ear mites.!
!
Treatment and Control
!
Treatment of ear mites involves thorough ear cleaning and medication. Your veterinarian can
recommend an effective treatment plan.!
!
Sarcoptic Mange Mites!
!
Mite Basics
!
Microscopic sarcoptic mange mites cause sarcoptic mange, also known as scabies.
Sarcoptic mange can affect dogs of all ages and sizes, during any time of the year. Sarcoptic
mange mites are highly contagious to other dogs and may be passed by close contact with infested
animals, bedding, or grooming tools.!
!
!
Diagnosis, Risks and Consequences
!
Sarcoptic mange mites burrow through the top layer of the dog's skin and cause intense
itching. Clinical signs include generalized hair loss, a skin rash, and crusting. Skin infections may
develop secondary to the intense irritation. People who come in close contact with an affected dog
may develop a skin rash and should see their physician. Sarcoptic mange is usually confirmed by
taking a skin scraping and examining it under a microscope.!
!
Treatment and Control
!
Dogs with sarcoptic mange require medication to kill the mites and additional treatment to
soothe the skin and resolve related infections. Cleaning and treatment of the dog's environment is
also necessary.!
!
Demodectic Mange Mites!
!
Mite Basics
!
Demodectic mange caused by demodectic mange mites is mainly a problem in dogs.
Demodectic mange mites are microscopic and not highly contagious. In general, demodex mites are
not spread to other animals or across species. A mother dog, however, may pass the mites to her
puppies.!
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!
Diagnosis, Risks and Consequences
!
Localized demodectic mange tends to appear in young dogs (usually less than 6 months old)
as patches of scaly skin and redness around the eyes and mouth and, perhaps, the legs and trunk.
Itching is not common with this type of mite infestation unless a secondary infection has occurred.
Unlike other types of mange, demodectic mange may signal an underlying medical condition, and
your pet's overall health should be carefully evaluated. Less commonly, young and old dogs
experience a more severe form of demodectic mange (generalized demodecosis) and can exhibit
widespread patches of redness, hair loss, and scaly, thickened skin Dogs with demodecosis can
develop secondary bacterial infections which require additional treatment.!
!
Cats are rarely infected with demodex mites, and the cat demodex mite is not the same as
the dog demodex mite. Affected cats develop hair loss, crusts and scaly skin around the face, neck
and eyelids, and may excessively groom the areas. They may also be more itchy than dogs affected
by demodex.!
!
Demodectic mange is usually confirmed by taking a skin scraping and examining it under a
microscope.!
!
Treatment and Control
!
Your veterinarian will discuss treatment options with you. Treatment of dogs with localized
demodectic mange generally results in favorable outcomes. Generalized demodecosis, however,
may be difficult to treat, and treatment may only control the condition, rather than cure it.!
!
!
!
Important Points!
!
!
!
!
• Look for fleas, ticks, and coat abnormalities any time you groom your dog or cat or when you
return home from areas that are likely to have higher numbers of these parasites.!
• Consult your veterinarian if your pet excessively scratches, chews, or licks its coat, or
persistently shakes its head or scratches its ears. These clinical signs may indicate the
presence of external parasites or other conditions requiring medical care.!
• Prompt treatment of parasites lessens your pet's discomfort, decreases the chances of disease
transmission, and may reduce the degree of home infestation.!
• Discuss the health of all family pets with your veterinarian when one pet becomes infested.
Some parasites cycle among pets, making control of infestations difficult unless other pets are
considered. Consult your veterinarian before beginning treatment.!
• Tell your veterinarian if you have attempted any parasite remedies, as this may impact your
veterinarian's recommendation.!
• Be especially careful when applying insecticides to cats, as cats are particularly sensitive to
these products. Never use a product that is not approved for cats because the results could be
lethal.!
• Follow label directions carefully.!
• Leave treatment to the experts. Your veterinarian offers technical expertise and can assist you
in identifying products that are most likely to effectively and safely control your pet's parasite
problem.!
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!
What you should know about internal parasites in cats and dogs!
!
!
Most internal parasites are worms and single-celled organisms that can exist in the intestines
of dogs or cats. The most common worms are roundworms, hookworms, whipworms and
tapeworms. Common single-cell parasites are coccidia and Giardia.!
!
What are roundworms and how are they spread?!
!
Roundworms are the most common intestinal parasite in dogs and cats in the world. Animals
with roundworms pass the infection to other animals when the worm eggs develop into larvae and
are present in the animal's feces (droppings). Your pet can pick up the infection by eating infected
soil, licking contaminated fur or paws, or by drinking contaminated water.!
!
Infected female dogs may pass the infection to their puppies before birth or afterwards when
they are nursing. Infected female cats cannot infect their kittens before birth, but can pass on the
infection through their milk when kittens are nursing.!
!
What are the health risks to pets and people?!
!
Puppies and kittens are the most prone to roundworm infection. Because roundworms live in
the small intestine, they steal the nutrients from the food your pet eats and that can lead to
malnutrition and intestinal problems. As the larvae move through your pet's body, young animals
may develop serious respiratory problems such as pneumonia.!
!
Roundworm infections are zoonotic (pronounced zoe-oh-NOT-ick) diseases, meaning that
they are animal diseases that can be transmitted to humans. While direct contact with infected dogs
and cats increases a person's risk for roundworm infection, most infections come from accidentally
eating the worm larvae or from larvae that enter through the skin. For example, children are at risk
for infection if they play in areas that may contain infected feces (such as dirt piles and sandboxes),
and they pick up the larvae on their hands.!
!
Left untreated, roundworms in people can cause serious health problems when the larvae
enter organs and other tissues, resulting in lung, brain, or liver damage. If the roundworm larva
enters the eyes, permanent, partial blindness can result.!
!
What are hookworms and how are they spread?!
!
Hookworms are the second most common intestinal parasites found in dogs, but they are
less commonly found in cats. Your pet can become infected when larvae penetrate the animal's skin
or the lining of the mouth. An infected female dog can pass the infection to her puppies through her
milk, but this does not occur in cats.!
!
What are the health risks to pets and people?!
!
Hookworms are dangerous parasites because they actually bite into the intestinal lining of an
animal and suck blood. As with roundworms, puppies and kittens are at high risk of infection and
developing severe diseases. Left untreated, hookworm infections can result in potentially lifethreatening blood loss, weakness, and malnutrition.!
!
Like roundworms, hookworm infections are zoonotic, and infections usually occur by
accidentally eating the larvae or by the larvae entering through the skin. In humans, hookworm
infections cause health problems when the larvae penetrate the skin. The larvae produce severe
itching and tunnel-like, red areas as they move through the skin and, if accidentally eaten, can
cause intestinal problems.!
!
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!
!
What are whipworms and how are they spread?!
!
These worms get their name from their whip-like shape. Animals with whipworms pass the
infection along to other animals when the worm eggs develop into larvae and are passed in their
feces (droppings). Your pet can pick up the infection by eating infected soil or licking their
contaminated fur or paws.!
!
What are the health risks to pets and people?!
!
Like hookworms, whipworms bury their heads in the lining of an animal's intestine and suck
blood, but they are generally less harmful and usually do not cause health problems. Occasionally,
severe infections can develop and lead to diarrhea, weight loss, and blood loss. Whipworm larvae
rarely infect humans when they are accidentally eaten.!
!
What are tapeworms and how are they spread?!
!
Tapeworms got their name because they are thin and flat, like strips of tape. Unlike the
smooth-bodied roundworms, hookworms, and whipworms, tapeworms' bodies are actually made up
of joined segments. Dogs and cats become infected with tapeworms when they eat infected fleas or
lice. They can also get certain types of tapeworms by eating infected rodents.!
!
What are the health risks to pets and people?!
!
Tapeworms live in the small intestine and steal the nutrients from the food your dog or cat
eats. An infection is usually diagnosed when the eggs sacs are seen under the pet's tail or on its
stool. These sacs look like flattened grains of rice. While there are several dewormers available that
are effective against tapeworms, keeping your pet free of fleas is the best preventative. Rarely are
tapeworms a risk to people.!
!
How can I prevent/treat worm infections?!
!
Healthy pets may not show outward signs of a worm infection. However, if you notice a
change in your pet's appetite or coat, diarrhea, or excessive coughing, see your veterinarian. In
most cases, a simple fecal test can detect the presence of worm eggs or adults and, if present, your
veterinarian will recommend a deworming program. A good way to prevent worm infections is by
using one of several monthly heartworm preventatives available from your veterinarian.!
!
Nursing female dogs and cats and their litters are also major sources for the spread of
infective eggs and larvae. If you have a new puppy or kitten, or a pregnant pet, consult with your
veterinarian about a deworming program that will reduce your family's risk of infection.!
!
Worm infections in humans can be easily prevented by practicing good hygiene and
sanitation. Children should be discouraged from eating dirt and should not be allowed to play in
areas that are soiled with pet feces. Sandboxes should be covered when not in use. Adults and
children should always wash their hands after handling soil and after contact with pets. Shoes
should be worn when outside to protect feet from larvae present in the environment, and raw
vegetables should be thoroughly washed because they may contain parasites from infected soil.!
!
Dog droppings should be immediately picked up from public areas and from your yard to
reduce the chances of contaminating the soil. Keeping cats indoors is an effective way to limit their
risk of exposure to roundworms.!
!
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Other internal parasites!
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Coccidia
!
Coccidia (cok-SID-ee-ah) are single-celled parasites and are not visible to the naked eye.
Your pet can become infected by eating infected soil or licking contaminated paws or fur. Once
swallowed, the parasites damage the lining of the intestine and your pet cannot absorb nutrients
from its food. Bloody, watery diarrhea may result, and the animal may become dehydrated because
it loses more water in its stool than it can replace by drinking. Young pets are most often infected
because their immune systems may not yet be strong enough to fight off the parasite. Coccidia can
be very contagious among young puppies and kittens, so households with multiple pets should be
especially careful to practice good hygiene and sanitation.!
!
A routine fecal test by your veterinarian will detect the presence of coccidia. Treatment with
medications will prevent the parasite from multiplying and allow time for your pet's immune system
to kill the parasites.!
!
Giardia
!
Giardia (gee-AR-dee-ah) is also a single-celled parasite that, if swallowed, damages the
lining of the intestine and reduces the absorption of nutrients from the food your pet eats. While
most Giardia infections do not cause illness, severe infections can lead to diarrhea.!
!
Giardia is harder to diagnose than other intestinal parasites, and several stool samples may
have to be tested before it is found. If necessary, your veterinarian will recommend treatment with
medications to eliminate the infection. Because it is highly contagious among animals, good hygiene
and sanitation are important when there are multiple pets in the household.!
!
!
!
Important points about internal parasites!
• See your veterinarian if your pet has diarrhea, weight loss, increased scooting, a dull coat, or if
you see worms under its tail, in its bedding, or on its stool.!
• Prompt treatment of internal parasites lessens your pet's discomfort, decreases the chances of
intestinal damage, and decreases the chance that your pet will infect humans or other animals.!
• Good hygiene and sanitation reduce the chances that your pet will infect people or animals.
You can help prevent the spread of infection by always cleaning up your pet's droppings
immediately.!
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What you should know about heartworm disease!
!
Heartworm is a preventable, but serious and potentially fatal, parasite that primarily infects
dogs, cats and ferrets. It can also infect a variety of wild animals, including wild canids (e.g., foxes,
wolves, coyotes), wild felids (e.g. tigers, lions, pumas), raccoons, opossums, and pinnipeds (e.g.,
sea lions and seals), as well as others. There have been documented human infections, but they
are thought to be rare and do not usually result in signs of illness.!
!
How is heartworm disease transmitted and what does it cause?!
!
Heartworms can only be transmitted from animal to animal by mosquitoes. When a mosquito
bites an infected animal, young heartworms called microfilariae enter into that mosquito's system.
Within two weeks, the microfilariae develop into infective larvae inside the mosquito; these infective
larvae can be transmitted to another animal when this mosquito takes its next blood meal. Unlike
dogs, infected cats do not often have microfilariae circulating in their blood, and an infected cat is
not likely to transfer the heartworm infection to another mosquito.!
!
The infective larvae mature into adult heartworms in approximately six months. During the
first three months, the larvae migrate through the animal's body, eventually reaching the blood
vessels of the lungs. During the last three months, the immature worms continue to develop and
grow to adults, with females growing to lengths of up to 14 inches. The worms damage the blood
vessels, and reduce the heart's pumping ability, resulting in severe lung and heart disease. When
the animal shows signs of illness due to adult heartworm infection, it is called heartworm disease.!
!
If adult worms (5-7 months post-infection) of both sexes are present, they will mate and
produce new microfilariae. The microfilariae can cause the animal's immune system to mount a
reaction; this immune reaction can actually cause damage to other organs. This life cycle continues
when a mosquito bites the infected animal and becomes infected by the microfilariae. After
development of the microfilariae to infective larvae within the mosquito (10 days to 2 weeks later)
the infective heartworm larvae are capable of infecting another animal. Adult heartworms can
survive for 5 to 7 years in dogs and several months to years in cats.!
!
Where is heartworm disease found?!
!
Geographically, heartworms are a potential threat in every state as well as in many other
countries around the world. All dogs, regardless of age, sex, or living environment, are susceptible
to heartworm infection. Indoor, as well as outdoor, cats are also at risk for the disease. If you plan to
travel with your dog or cat to a different part of the country, or another country, ask your veterinarian
about the risk of heartworm infection in the area where you are going to relocate or visit.!
!
What pets should be tested for heartworm?!
!
Because heartworms are spread by mosquitoes, any pet exposed to mosquitoes should be
tested. This includes pets that only go outside occasionally.!
!
!
How can I tell if my pet has heartworm disease?!
!
!
If your dog has been recently or mildly infected with heartworms, it may show no signs of
illness until the adult worms have developed in the lungs and signs of heartworm disease are
observed. As the disease progresses, your dog may cough, become lethargic, lose its appetite or
have difficulty breathing. You may notice that your dog seems to tire rapidly after only moderate
exercise.!
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Numerous diagnostic tests are available for your veterinarian to detect the presence of adult
heartworm infection (> 6 month old infections) in your dog. Antigen tests detect the presence of
adult female heartworms, and antibody tests determine if your pet has been exposed to
heartworms. The antigen test is most commonly performed, and is very accurate in dogs. Further
tests, such as chest radiographs (x-rays), a blood profile and an echocardiogram (an ultrasound of
the heart), may be necessary to confirm the diagnosis, to evaluate the severity of the disease, and
to determine the best treatment plan for your dog.!
!
How can my pet be treated?!
!
As with most medical problems, it is much better to prevent heartworm infection than to treat
it. However, if your dog does become infected with heartworms there is an FDA-approved treatment
available. There is substantial risk involved in treating a dog for heartworms. However, serious
complications are much less likely in dogs that are in good health and when you carefully follow
your veterinarian's instructions.!
!
The goal of heartworm treatment is to kill the adult worms and microfilariae present in your
dog, as safely as possible. However, when a dog is treated it is important to consider that
heartworms are dying inside the dogs lungs. While your dog is treated, it will require complete rest
throughout hospitalization and for some time following the last treatment. Additionally, other
medications may be necessary to help control the body's inflammatory reaction as the worms die
and are broken down in the dog's lungs.!
!
Can heartworms be surgically removed?!
!
Surgical removal of heartworms from dogs and cats is a high-risk procedure and is typically
reserved for severe cases. However, in many cases surgical removal of heartworms may be
necessary to afford the best opportunity for survival of the pet.!
!
Can heartworm disease be prevented?!
!
Heartworm infection is almost 100% preventable in dogs and cats. There are several FDAapproved heartworm preventives available in a variety of formulations. Your veterinarian can
recommend the best method of prevention based upon your pet's risk factors and lifestyle. Of
course, you have to remember to give your pet the preventive in order for it to work!!
!
The preventives do not kill adult heartworms, and will not eliminate heartworm infection or
prevent signs of heartworm disease if adults are present in the pet's body. Therefore, a blood test
for existing heartworm infection is recommended before beginning a prevention program to assess
the pet's current heartworm status. Because it is more difficult to detect heartworms in cats,
additional testing may be necessary to make sure the cat is not infected.!
!
Testing must then be repeated at appropriate intervals. The next test should be performed
about 6 months after starting the preventive treatment, to confirm that your pet was not infected
prior to beginning prevention (remember, tests only detect adult worms). Heartworm tests should be
performed annually to ensure that your pet doesn't subsequently become infected with the disease
and to ensure the appropriate amount of medication is being prescribed and administered. There
have been reports of pets developing heartworm infection despite year-round treatment with a
heartworm preventive, so having your pet tested regularly is the best way to keep them protected.!
!
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What you should know about vaccinations!
Pets, like people, can be protected from some diseases by vaccination. Although this brochure
provides basic information about vaccinations for your dog or cat, your veterinarian is your best
source for advice regarding individualized care. !
!
Q: What are vaccines?!
A: Vaccines are products designed to trigger protective immune responses in pets and prepare
them to fight future infections from disease-causing agents.!
!
!
Vaccines can lessen the severity of future diseases and certain vaccines can prevent
infection altogether. Today, a variety of vaccines are available for use by veterinarians. Some
vaccines are administered via injections using a syringe and needle, and others are administered
into the animal's nose or directly into the skin (transdermally). Other methods of administration are
currently under development. !
!
Q: Is it important to vaccinate?!
A: Yes! Pets should be vaccinated to protect them from many highly contagious and deadly
diseases. Experts agree that widespread use of vaccines within the last century has prevented
death and disease in millions of animals. If an unvaccinated pet develops one of these diseases,
treatment can become very expensive and many of these diseases can be fatal despite treatment.
Even though some formerly common diseases have now become uncommon, vaccination is still
highly recommended because these serious disease agents continue to be present in the
environment.!
!
!
It is also important to remember that pets can be vaccinated for some zoonotic (pronounced
ZOE-oh-not-ick) diseases, which are diseases that can be spread from animals to people. For
example, rabies is a serious, often fatal, disease that can spread from infected animals to people.
By vaccinating your pets for rabies, you are protecting your family as well as your pet. !
!
Q: Does vaccination ensure protection?!
A: For most pets, vaccination is effective in preventing future disease. Occasionally, a vaccinated
pet may not develop adequate immunity and, although rare, it is possible for these pets to become
ill if exposed to the disease. These gaps in protection should be as short as possible to provide
optimal protection against disease for the first few months of life. It is important to remember that
although breakdowns in protection do occur, most appropriately vaccinated pets are able to
successfully fight off disease — reinforcing the importance of vaccines in your pet's preventive
health care program. !
!
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!
Q: Are there risks?!
A: Any treatment carries some risk, but these risks should be weighed against the benefits of
protecting your pet from potentially fatal diseases. Most pets respond well to vaccines. The most
common adverse responses are mild and short-term, including fever, sluggishness, and reduced
appetite. Pets may also experience temporary pain or subtle swelling at the site of vaccination. !
!
Although most adverse reactions will resolve within a day or two, any excessive or continued pain,
swelling, or listlessness should be discussed with your veterinarian.!
!
!
Rarely, more serious adverse reactions can occur. Allergic reactions appear within minutes or
hours of a vaccination and may include repeated vomiting or diarrhea, whole body itching, swelling
of the face or legs, difficulty breathing or collapse. Contact your veterinarian immediately if any of
these symptoms are seen. In very rare instances, death could occur from an allergic reaction. There
are other uncommon but serious adverse reactions, including injection site tumors (sarcomas) in
cats, which can develop weeks or months after a vaccination. The best advice is to always tell your
veterinarian about any abnormalities you notice after your pet has been vaccinated. !
!
Q: Why do puppies and kittens require a series of vaccinations?!
A: Very young puppies and kittens are highly susceptible to infectious diseases because their
immune systems are not fully mature. While nursing, their mother's milk contains antibodies (special
proteins) that provide some immunity to diseases; however, these maternal antibodies do not last
long, and there may be gaps in protection as the milk antibodies decrease and the puppies' or
kittens' immune system isn't yet capable of fighting off infection. In many instances, the first dose of
a vaccine serves to prime the pet's immune system against the virus or bacteria while subsequent
doses help to further stimulate the immune system to produce the antibodies needed to protect a
pet from specific diseases. To keep these gaps in protection as small as possible and to provide
optimal protection against disease in the first few months of life, a series of vaccinations are
scheduled, usually 3-4 weeks apart. For most puppies and kittens, the final vaccination in the series
is administered at about 4 months of age; however, in some situations, a veterinarian may alter this
schedule based on an individual animal's risk factors. Remember that an incomplete series of
vaccinations may lead to incomplete protection, making puppies and kittens vulnerable to infection. !
!
Q: Which vaccines should my pet receive?!
A: Not all pets should be vaccinated with all available vaccines. "Core" vaccines are recommended
for most pets in a particular area because they protect from diseases most common in that area.
"Non-Core" vaccines are reserved for individual pets with unique needs. Your veterinarian will
consider your pet's risk of exposure to a variety of preventable diseases in order to customize a
vaccination program for optimal protection throughout your pet's life. Talk with your veterinarian
about your pet's lifestyle including its expected travel to other geographic locations and/or contact
with other animals (such as exposure at kennels, obedience classes, shows, and dog parks) since
these factors impact your pet's risk of exposure to certain diseases. For older pets, make sure your
veterinarian is aware of any previous adverse reactions to vaccines. !
!
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Q: How often should my pet be vaccinated?!
A: For many years, a set of annual vaccinations was considered normal and necessary for dogs
and cats. There is increasing evidence to support that immunity triggered by some vaccines
provides protection beyond one year while the immunity triggered by other vaccines may fail to
protect for a full year. Consequently, one vaccination schedule will not work well for all pets. Your
veterinarian will determine a vaccination schedule most appropriate for your pet. !
!
Q: What are antibody titers, and do they replace vaccination?!
A: Antibody titers are blood tests that measure the amount of antibodies in the blood. Following
exposure to a disease-causing organism (such as a virus) or a vaccine, the body generates
antibodies that help to destroy the organism and prevent or minimize illness if the body is exposed
to the same organism again.!
!
!
Antibody titers do not replace vaccination programs, but in some instances may help your
veterinarian determine if your pet has a reasonable expectation of protection against disease.
However, there are only a limited number of disease-causing organisms for which antibody titers
can suggest your pet's level of protection and those antibody tests have limitations. Consequently, a
higher antibody titer does not necessarily mean your pet will be protected if exposed to the disease,
and a lower titer may not mean your pet's protection is lacking. !
!
A final thought!
Many factors are taken into consideration when establishing a pet's vaccination plan. Your
veterinarian will tailor a program of vaccinations and patient health care that will help your pet
maintain a lifetime of infectious disease protection. !
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What you should know about rabies!
What is rabies?!
!
Rabies is a deadly disease caused by a virus that attacks the nervous system. The virus is
secreted in saliva and is usually transmitted to people and animals by a bite from an infected
animal. Less commonly, rabies can be transmitted when saliva from a rabid animal comes in
contact with an open cut on the skin or the eyes, nose, or mouth of a person or animal. Once the
outward signs of the disease appear, rabies is nearly always fatal.!
!
What animals can get rabies?!
!
Only mammals can get rabies; birds, fish, reptiles and amphibians do not. Most cases of
rabies occur in wild animals — mainly skunks, raccoons, coyotes, bats, and foxes. In recent years,
cats have become the most common domestic animal infected with rabies. This is because many
cat owners do not vaccinate their cats before the cats are exposed to rabid wildlife outdoors. Rabies
also occurs in dogs and cattle in significant numbers and, while not as common, has been
diagnosed in horses, goats, sheep, swine and ferrets.!
!
Improved vaccination programs and control of stray animals have been effective in
preventing rabies in most pets. Approved rabies vaccines are available for cats, dogs, ferrets,
horses, cattle and sheep. Licensed oral vaccines have been used for mass immunization of wildlife.!
!
What are the signs of rabies in animals?!
!
Once the rabies virus enters the body, it travels along the nerves to the brain. Dogs, cats,
and ferrets with rabies may show a variety of signs, including fearfulness, aggression, excessive
drooling, difficulty swallowing, staggering, and seizures. Rabid wild animals may only display
unusual behavior; for example, an animal that is usually only seen at night may be seen wandering
in the daytime. In addition to those signs seen in dogs and cats, horses, cattle, sheep, and goats
with rabies may exhibit depression, self mutilation, or increased sensitivity to light.!
!
How great is the risk of rabies to humans?!
!
Rabies vaccination and animal control programs, along with better treatment for people who
have been bitten, have dramatically reduced the number of human cases of rabies in the United
States. Most of the relatively few, recent human cases in this country have resulted from exposures
to bats. A few rabies cases have resulted from corneal or organ/tissue transplants from an infected
donor, but these have been extremely rare. Dogs are still a significant source of rabies in other
countries, so travelers should be aware of this risk when traveling outside of the United States.!
!
What can I do to help control rabies?!
• Have your veterinarian vaccinate your dogs, cats, ferrets, and select horses and livestock.
Your veterinarian will advise you on the recommended or required frequency of vaccination in
your area.
!
• Reduce the possibility of exposure to rabies by not letting your pets roam free. Keep cats and
ferrets indoors, and supervise dogs when they are outside. Spaying or neutering your pet may
decrease roaming tendencies and will prevent them from contributing to the birth of unwanted
animals.
!
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• Don't leave exposed garbage or pet food outside, as it may attract wild or stray animals.
!
• Wild animals should never be kept as pets. Not only may this be illegal, but wild animals pose
a potential rabies threat to caretakers and to others.
!
• Observe all wild animals from a distance. A rabid wild animal may appear tame but don't go
near it. Teach children NEVER to handle unfamiliar animals — even if they appear friendly.
!
• If you see a wild animal acting strangely, report it to the city or county animal control
department.
!
!
• Bat-proof your home and other structures to prevent bats from nesting and having access to
people. (See www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvrd/rabies/bats_&_rabies/bats&.htm for more information.)!
What if my PET HAS BITTEN someone?!
• Urge the victim to see a physician immediately and to follow the physician's recommendations.
!
• Check with your veterinarian to determine if your pet's vaccinations are up-to-date.
!
• Report the bite to the local health department and animal control authorities. If your pet is a
cat, dog or ferret, the officials will confine the animal and watch it closely for ten days. Home
confinement may be allowed.
!
• Immediately report any illness or unusual behavior by your pet to the local health department
and to your veterinarian.
!
• Don't let your pet stray and don't give your pet away. The animal must be available for
observation by public health authorities or a veterinarian.
!
!
!
• After the recommended observation period, have your pet vaccinated for rabies if it does not
have a current rabies vaccination.!
What if my PET HAS BEEN BITTEN?!
• Consult your veterinarian immediately and report the bite to local animal control authorities.
!
• Even if your dog, cat or ferret has a current vaccination, it should be revaccinated immediately,
kept under the owner's control, and observed for a period as specified by state law or local
ordinance (normally 45 days or more). Animals with expired vaccinations will need to be
evaluated on a case-by-case basis.
!
• Dogs, cats and ferrets that have never been vaccinated and are exposed to a rabid animal
may need to be euthanatized or placed in strict isolation for six months.
!
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• Animals other than dogs, cats, and ferrets that are bitten by a rabid or potentially rabid animal
may need to be euthanatized immediately.!
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What if I am bitten?!
• Don't panic, but don't ignore the bite. Wash the wound thoroughly and vigorously with soap
and lots of water.
!
• Call your physician immediately and explain how you were bitten. Follow the doctor's advice. If
necessary, your physician will give you the post exposure treatment recommended by the
United States Public Health Service and may also treat you for other possible infections that
could result from the bite.
!
• If possible, confine or capture the animal under a large box or other container if that can be
done safely. Once captured, don't try to pick up the animal. Call the local animal control
authorities to collect it. If the animal cannot be captured, try to memorize its appearance (size,
color, etc.) and where it went after biting you.
!
• If it is a wild animal, only try to capture it if you can do so without getting bitten again. If the
animal cannot be contained and must be killed to prevent its escape, do so without damaging
the head. The brain will be needed to test for rabies.
!
!
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• Report the bite to the local health department. Prompt and appropriate treatment after being
bitten and before the disease develops can stop the infection and prevent the disease.!
For more information on rabies, contact your veterinarian, or your local health department, or visit
the following sites: !
American Veterinary Medical Association (www.avma.org)
United States Centers for Disease Control (http://www.cdc.gov)
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What you should know about household hazards to pets!
Every home contains a variety of everyday items and substances that can be dangerous or even
fatal if ingested by dogs and cats. You can protect your pet's health by becoming aware of the most
common health hazards found in many pet-owning households.!
!
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HAZARDS IN THE KITCHEN!
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Foods
!
Many foods that are perfectly safe for humans could be harmful or potentially deadly to dogs
and cats. To be safe, keep the following food items out of your pet's menu:!
coffee grounds!
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grapes/raisins!
chocolate! !
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onions!
yeast dough! !
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tea!
macadamia nuts! !
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alcohol!
fatty foods! !
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salt!
avocado!
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garlic!
chewing gum, candy and breath fresheners containing xylitol!
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Always keep garbage out of a pet's reach, as rotting food contains molds or bacteria that could
produce food poisoning.!
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Cleaning Products
!
Many household cleaners can be used safely around cats and dogs. However, the key to
safe use lies in reading and following product directions for proper use and storage.!
!
For instance, if the label states "keep pets and children away from area until dry," follow
those directions to prevent possible health risks. Products containing bleach can safely disinfect
many household surfaces when used properly, but can cause stomach upset, drooling, vomiting or
diarrhea, severe burns if swallowed and respiratory tract irritation can occur if inhaled in a high
enough concentration. In addition, skin contact with concentrated solutions may produce serious
chemical burns. Some detergents can produce a similar reaction, and cats can be particularly
sensitive to certain ingredients such as phenols.!
!
As a general rule, store all cleaning products in a secure cabinet out of the reach of pets and
keep them in their original packaging, or in a clearly labeled and tightly sealed container.!
!
Insecticides/Rodenticides
!
As with household cleaners, read and follow label instructions before using any type of
pesticide in your pet's environment. For example, flea and tick products labeled "for use on dogs
only" should not be applied to cats or other species, as serious or even life-threatening problems
could result. Always consult with your veterinarian about the safe use of these products for your pet.!
!
If a pet ingests rat or mouse poison, potentially serious or even life-threatening illness can
result; therefore, when using any rodenticide, it is important to place the poison in areas completely
inaccessible to pets.!
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HAZARDS IN THE BATHROOM!
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Medications
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Medications that treat human medical conditions can make pets very sick. Never give your
pet any medication unless directed by your veterinarian. As a rule, the following medicines should
be tightly closed and stored in a secure cabinet above the counter and away from pets:!
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Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs such as aspirin, ibuprofen or naproxen!
acetaminophen!
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diet pills!
antihistamines!
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cold medicines!
vitamins!
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antidepressants!
prescription drugs!
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Soaps and other Sundries
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Bath and hand soaps, toothpaste and sun blocks should also be kept away from your pets.
They can cause stomach upset, vomiting or diarrhea. Keep toilet lids closed to prevent your pets
from consuming treated toilet bowl water that could irritate their digestive tract.!
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HAZARDS IN THE BEDROOM AND LIVING ROOM!
!
While they may smell good, many liquid potpourri products contain ingredients that can
cause oral ulcerations and other problems, so keep them out of the reach of your pets.!
!
Just one mothball has the potential to sicken a dog or cat and mothballs that contain
naphthalene can cause serious illness, including digestive tract irritation, liver, kidney and blood cell
damage, swelling of the brain tissues, seizures, coma, respiratory tract damage (if inhaled) and
even death (if ingested). Tobacco products, pennies (those minted after 1982 contain zinc) and
alkaline batteries (like those in your remote controls) can also be hazardous when ingested.!
!
HAZARDS IN THE GARAGE AND YARD!
!
Antifreeze, Herbicides and Insecticides
!
Ethylene glycol-containing antifreeze and coolants, even in small quantities, can be fatal to
both dogs and cats. While antifreeze products containing propylene glycol are less toxic than those
containing ethylene glycol, they can still be dangerous. In addition to antifreeze, other substances
routinely stored in the garage including insecticides, plant/lawn fertilizers, weed killers, ice-melting
products and gasoline also pose a threat to your pet's health if ingested.!
!
When chemical treatments are applied to grassy areas, be sure and keep your pet off the
lawn for the manufacturer's recommended time. If pets are exposed to wet chemicals or granules
that adhere to their paws, they may lick it off later; stomach upset or more serious problems could
result.!
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Paints and Solvents
!
Paint thinners, mineral spirits, and other solvents are dangerous and can cause severe
irritation or chemical burns if swallowed or if they come in contact with your pet's skin. While most
latex house paints typically produce a minor stomach upset, some types of artist's or other specialty
paints may contain heavy metals or volatile substances that could become harmful if inhaled or
ingested.!
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Plants – Inside or Around the House
!
There are many household and yard plants that can sicken your pet. Some of the most
commonly grown greenery that should be kept away from pets include:!
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• Lily of the Valley, oleander, azalea, yew, foxglove, rhododendron and kalanchoe may cause
heart problems if ingested.
!
• Rhubarb leaves and shamrock contain substances that can produce kidney failure. Certain
types of lilies (Lilium and Hemerocallis species) are highly toxic to cats, resulting in kidney
failure — even if only small amounts are ingested.
!
• Sago palms (Cycad species) can cause liver damage, especially if the nut portion of the plant
is consumed. Additionally, fungi such as certain varieties of mushrooms can cause liver
damage or other illnesses.
!
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A few other potentially harmful plants include philodendron, corn plant, castor bean, motherin-law's tongue, Hibiscus and hydrangea.!
!
For a complete listing of common toxic and non-toxic plants, visit www.aspca.org/pet-care/
poison-control/.!
!
OTHER HOUSEHOLD HAZARDS!
!
Small items that fall on the floor can be easily swallowed by a curious cat or dog. Such items
include coins, buttons, small children's toys, medicine bottles, jewelry, nails, and screws. The result
may be damage to your pet's digestive tract and the need for surgical removal of the object.!
!
While electrical cords are especially tempting to puppies who like to chew on almost
anything, even an adult dog or cat could find them of interest; burns or electrocution could result
from chewing on live cords. Prevent this by using cord covers and blocking access to wires.!
!
HOLIDAY HAZARDS!
!
Don't forget that holidays and visitors can pose a special challenge to your pets. Discourage
well-meaning guests from spoiling pets with extra treats and scraps from the dinner table. Fatty, rich
or spicy foods can cause vomiting and diarrhea and lead to inflammation of the pancreas. Poultry or
other soft bones can splinter and damage your pet's mouth or esophagus.!
!
While trick or treating is fun for children, it can be hazardous to pets. Halloween treats such
as chocolate or candy sweetened with xylitol can make a harmful snack. Certain Halloween and
Christmas decorations (especially tinsel, ribbons and ornaments) also pose a hazard to pets, so
make sure nothing is left on the floor or on tables within reach.!
!
String-like items can damage your pet's intestine and could prove fatal if not surgically
removed. While poinsettia is not deadly as popular legend would have it, it could still cause an upset
stomach if consumed. Holly and mistletoe are especially dangerous plants. Christmas tree water
treated with preservatives (including fertilizers) can also cause an upset stomach. Water that is
allowed to stagnate in tree stands contains bacteria that, if ingested, could lead to nausea, vomiting
and diarrhea.!
!
WHAT TO DO IF YOUR PET IS POISONED
!
Don't wait! Time is critical for successfully treating accidental poisoning. Pick up the phone
and call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (1-888-426-4435; a
consultation fee may apply). Be prepared to state your pet's breed, age, weight and any symptoms.
Keep the product container or plant sample with you to assist in identification so the appropriate
treatment recommendations can be made.!
!
For more information about pet poisons,
visit the ASPCA Poison Control Center
www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/!
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8 things you can do to protect your dog in the summer
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
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Never, ever leave your dog in the car;
Make sure your dog has unlimited access to fresh water;
Make sure your dog has access to shade when outside;
Take walks during the cooler hours of the day;
When walking, try to stay off of hot surfaces (like asphalt) because it can burn your dog's paws;
If you think it's hot outside, it's even hotter for your pet – make sure your pet has a means of cooling
off;
Keep your dog free of external parasites (fleas, ticks) and heartworms – consult your veterinarian
about the best product for your pet;
Consider clipping or shaving dogs with long coats, and apply sunscreen to your dog's skin if she or
he has a thin coat.
Cold Weather Pet Safety
!
You’re probably already aware of the risks posed by warm weather and leaving pets in hot cars, but
did you know that cold weather also poses serious threats to your pets’ health?
Winter wellness: Has your pet had his/her preventive care exam (wellness exam) yet? Cold weather
may worsen some medical conditions such as arthritis. Your pet should be examined by a veterinarian at least
once a year, and it’s as good a time as any to get him/her checked out to make sure (s)he is ready and as
healthy as possible for cold weather.
Know the limits: Just like people, pets’ cold tolerance can vary from pet to pet based on their coat,
body fat stores, activity level, and health. Be aware of your pet’s tolerance for cold weather, and adjust
accordingly. You will probably need to shorten your dog’s walks in very cold weather to protect you both
from weather-associated health risks. Arthritic and elderly pets may have more difficulty walking on snow and
ice and may be more prone to slipping and falling. Long-haired or thick-coated dogs tend to be more coldtolerant, but are still at risk in cold weather. Short-haired pets feel the cold faster because they have less
protection, and short-legged pets may become cold faster because their bellies and bodies are more likely to
come into contact with snow-covered ground. Pets with diabetes, heart disease, kidney disease, or hormonal
imbalances (such as Cushing’s disease) may have a harder time regulating their body temperature, and may be
more susceptible to problems from temperature extremes. The same goes for very young and very old pets. If
you need help determining your pet’s temperature limits, consult your veterinarian.
Provide choices: Just like you, pets prefer comfortable sleeping places and may change their location
based on their need for more or less warmth. Give them some safe options to allow them to vary their sleeping
place to adjust to their needs.
Stay inside. Cats and dogs should be kept inside during cold weather. It’s a common belief that dogs
and cats are resistant than people to cold weather because of their fur, but it’s untrue. Like people, cats and
dogs are susceptible to frostbite and hypothermia and should be kept inside. Longer-haired and thick-coated
dog breeds, such as huskies and other dogs bred for colder climates, are more tolerant of cold weather; but no
pet should be left outside for long periods of time in below-freezing weather.
Make some noise: A warm vehicle engine can be an appealing heat source for outdoor and feral cats,
but it’s deadly. Check underneath your car, bang on the hood, and honk the horn before starting the engine to
encourage feline hitchhikers to abandon their roost under the hood.
Check the paws: Check your dog’s paws frequently for signs of cold-weather injury or damage, such
as cracked paw pads or bleeding. During a walk, a sudden lameness may be due to an injury or may be due to
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ice accumulation between his/her toes. You may be able to reduce the chance of iceball accumulation by
clipping the hair between your dog’s toes.
Play dress-up: If your dog has a short coat or seems bothered by the cold weather, consider a sweater
or dog coat. Have several on hand, so you can use a dry sweater or coat each time your dog goes outside. Wet
sweaters or coats can actually make your dog colder. Some pet owners also use booties to protect their dog’s
feet; if you choose to use them, make sure they fit properly.
Wipe down: During walks, your dog’s feet, legs and belly may pick up deicers, antifreeze, or other
chemicals that could be toxic. When you get back inside, wipe down (or wash) your pet’s feet, legs and belly
to remove these chemicals and reduce the risk that your dog will be poisoned after (s)he licks them off of his/
her feet or fur. Consider using pet-safe deicers on your property to protect your pets and the others in your
neighborhood.
Collar and chip: Many pets become lost in winter because snow and ice can hide recognizable scents
that might normally help your pet find his/her way back home. Make sure your pet has a well-fitting collar
with up-to-date identification and contact information. A microchip is a more permanent means of
identification, but it’s critical that you keep the registration up to date.
Stay home: Hot cars are a known threat to pets, but cold cars also pose significant risk to your pet’s
health. You’re already familiar with how a car can rapidly cool down in cold weather; it becomes like a
refrigerator, and can rapidly chill your pet. Pets that are young, old, ill, or thin are particularly susceptible to
cold environments and should never be left in cold cars. Limit car travel to only that which is necessary, and
don’t leave your pet unattended in the vehicle.
Avoid ice: When walking your dog, stay away from frozen ponds, lakes and other water. You don’t
know if the ice will support your dog’s weight, and if your dog breaks through the ice it could be deadly. And
if this happens and you instinctively try to save your dog, both of your lives could be in jeopardy.
Provide shelter: We don’t recommend keeping any pet outside for long periods of time, but if you are
unable to keep your dog inside during cold weather, provide him/her with a warm, solid shelter against wind.
Make sure that they have unlimited access to fresh, non-frozen water (by changing the water frequently or
using a pet-safe, heated water bowl). The floor of the shelter should be off of the ground (to minimize heat
loss into the ground) and the bedding should be thick, dry and changed regularly to provide a warm, dry
environment. The door to the shelter should be positioned away from prevailing winds. Space heaters and heat
lamps should be avoided because of the risk of burns or fire. Heated pet mats should also be used with caution
because they are still capable of causing burns.
Recognize problems: If your pet is whining, shivering, seems anxious, slows down or stops moving,
seems weak, or starts looking for warm places to burrow, get them back inside quickly because they are
showing signs of hypothermia. Frostbite is harder to detect, and may not be fully recognized until a few days
after the damage is done. If you suspect your pet has hypothermia or frostbite, consult your veterinarian
immediately.
Be prepared: Cold weather also brings the risks of severe winter weather, blizzards and power outages.
Prepare a disaster/emergency kit, and include your pet in your plans. Have enough food, water and medicine
(including any prescription medications as well as heartworm and flea/tick preventives) on hand to get
through at least 5 days.
Feed well: Keep your pet at a healthy weight throughout the winter. Some pet owners feel that a little
extra weight gives their pet some extra protection from cold, but the health risks associated with that extra
weight don’t make it worth doing. Watch your pet’s body condition and keep them in the healthy range.
Outdoor pets will require more calories in the winter to generate enough body heat and energy to keep them
warm – talk to your veterinarian about your pet’s nutritional needs during cold weather.
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!
!
Diabetes
Pets are living longer lives than ever before due to better care and advances in veterinary medicine. Diabetes is more common
in older pets, but it can also occur in younger or pregnant pets. The disease is more manageable if it is detected early and
managed with the help of your veterinarian. The good news is that with proper monitoring, treatment, and diet and exercise,
diabetic pets can lead long and happy lives.
Diabetes mellitus, or diabetes, is a condition that occurs when the body can not use glucose (a
type of sugar) normally. Glucose is the main source of energy for the body’s cells. The levels of
glucose in the blood are primarily controlled by a hormone called insulin, which is made by the
pancreas.
As food passes through the intestines during digestion, sugars are one of the nutrients absorbed
from the food. The sugars are transported into the cells that line the intestines and are converted into
simple sugars (including) glucose. The simple sugars are then absorbed into the bloodstream for
circulation and delivery to the whole body’s tissues and cells. Insulin is required for the transfer of
glucose from the bloodstream to the cells. If there is not enough insulin or the body is unable to use
the insulin, glucose accumulates in high levels in the blood—a condition called hyperglycemia. When
the blood glucose reaches a certain level, the glucose overflows into the urine (this is called
glucosuria) and draws large volumes of water with it. This is why diabetic pets often drink more
water and urinate more frequently and in larger amounts.
In diabetics, regardless of the source of the sugar or the amount of sugar in the blood, there is
not enough glucose transported into the body’s cells. As a result, there is not enough energy for the
cells to function normally, and, the tissues become starved for energy. This state of metabolic
“starvation” causes the body to breakdown fat and muscle tissue, which is then converted by the liver
to sugar. (This breakdown of body tissues results in the weight loss often seen in diabetic patients.)
In human patients, diabetes is classified as Type I or Type II. Type I occurs when the pancreas does
not make enough insulin, and type II occurs when the body can not respond normally to the amount
of insulin made by the pancreas. Although diabetes in pets is sometimes classified as Type I or II, the
difference between the types is less clear in pets than it is in humans.
Diabetes in dogs and cats can occur at any age. However, diabetic dogs are usually 4 – 14
years of age and most are diagnosed at roughly 7 – 10 years of age. Most diabetic cats are older than
6 years of age. Diabetes occurs in female dogs twice as often as male dogs. Certain breeds of dogs
may be predisposed to diabetes, such as Australian terriers, schnauzers, dachshunds, poodles,
keeshonds and Samoyeds. Diabetes occurs more often in neutered male cats than in females.
Obesity is a significant risk factor for development of diabetes. As dogs and cats age, they may
also develop other diseases that can result in diabetes or could significantly affect their response to
treatment for diabetes, including overactivity of the adrenal gland in dogs (hyperadrenocorticsm) or
overactivity of the thyroid gland in cats (hyperthyroidism), pancreatitis, heart disease, kidney disease,
urinary tract infections and skin infections. The long-term use of medications containing
corticosteroids is also a risk factor for diabetes.
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Noticing the early signs of diabetes is the most important step in taking care of your pet. If you
see any of the following signs, your pet should be examined by a veterinarian. The earlier the
diagnosis, the better chance your pet may have for a longer and healthier life.
• excessive water drinking and increased urination
• weight loss, even though there may be an increased appetite
• decreased appetite
• cloudy eyes (especially in dogs)
• chronic or recurring infections (including skin infections and urinary
infections)
Diabetes may be suspected based on the signs a pet is showing, but the diagnosis is confirmed
by your veterinarian by finding consistent hyperglycemia and glucosuria. Although a diagnosis of
diabetes is often relatively straightforward, your veterinarian may run additional blood tests to rule
out other medical conditions seen in older pets. A urine culture might be recommended to rule out a
urinary tract infection.
Once the diagnosis is confirmed, your veterinarian will prescribe an initial dose and type of
insulin for your pet. Insulin cannot be given orally—it must be given by injection under the skin.
Your veterinarian or veterinary technician will teach you how to give the insulin injections, which
involve a very small needle and are generally very well tolerated by the pet. It is not a one-size-fitsall treatment, and there is no precise dose of insulin, and no one type of insulin, that is perfect for an
individual pet based on weight, gender, breed, age, etc. Dietary recommendations are an important
part of treatment.
Successful treatment of diabetes requires regular examinations, blood and urine tests, and
monitoring your pet’s weight, appetite, drinking and urination.
Dogs and cats with diabetes usually require lifelong treatment with special diets, a good fitness
regimen and, particularly in dogs, daily insulin injections. The key to managing diabetic pets is to
keep your pet’s blood sugar near normal levels and avoid too-high or too-low levels that can be lifethreatening. A treatment that works for one pet might not work as well for another pet, and patience is
important as you and your pet adjust to the new diet and medications. Management of your diabetic
pet may include some or all of the following:
!
Dogs
• A high-fiber diet is often recommended.
• Daily exercise is strongly recommended. Consult your veterinarian about
an appropriate exercise program for your pet, considering factors such as
weight, overall health and age.
• Owners should consider spaying female dogs diagnosed with diabetes.
!
It is very important to maintain the proper insulin and feeding schedules recommended for
your pet. It is also very important that your pet maintains a normal appetite while on insulin therapy,
or you risk hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) if your pet is not eating and absorbing enough sugars to
balance the insulin’s effect of removing the sugars from the bloodstream. You will also need to
regularly check your pet’s blood and urine sugar levels. Most blood and urine glucose monitoring is
done in the veterinary clinic but some owners will monitor their pet’s blood and urine glucose levels
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at-home. These at home results are then discussed with the veterinarian, who will make the final
decision on any changes to insulin therapy.
Watch for the signs of an insulin overdose, which can include weakness, tremors or seizures,
and loss of appetite. Contact your veterinarian or an emergency clinic immediately if you observe any
of these signs, and consult your veterinarian about what you should do in the meantime to help your
pet until it can be examined by a veterinarian. As signs of an insulin overdose can sometimes be very
similar to signs of an insulin underdose, it is important that changes in dosage and frequency of
insulin injections only be made by a veterinarian.
Because older dogs and cats are more likely to develop age-related diseases or conditions,
some of which could be confused with diabetes, regular examinations by a veterinarian can keep your
pet healthy and detect problems before they become severe.
If you have any questions about your pet’s health or management, contact your veterinarian.
In addition, diabetic pets should be monitored for long-term complications such as cataracts, which
commonly develop in diabetic dogs and cats. Other problems that can occur include hind leg
weakness due to low blood potassium (hypokalemia), high blood pressure (hypertension), or lower
urinary tract infections.
Diabetic dogs and cats can live long and healthy lives with proper management and veterinary
care. If you notice any changes in your pet’s behavior or weight, consult your veterinarian.
!
!
Leptospirosis
Leptospirosis is a disease caused by infection with Leptospira bacteria. These bacteria can be found
worldwide in soil and water. There are many strains of Leptospira bacteria that can cause disease.
Leptospirosis is more common in areas with warm climates and high annual rainfall but it can occur
anywhere. Exposure to slow-moving or stagnant water is a major risk factor for leptospirosis, although it
can also be contracted from wet, shaded grass or along the banks of rivers or lakes.
In the United States, the southwestern states appear to have lower risk of leptospirosis. The
highest number of leptospirosis cases occurs in the late summer and fall in the United States, but
seasonality can vary in different parts of the country.
Dogs are most commonly affected. Leptospirosis in cats is rare and appears to be mild although
very little is known about the disease in this species.
In some parts of the United States where the bacteria are widespread in the environment, almost
every dog is at risk of developing leptospirosis, regardless of whether they live in the country, suburbs or
city. Any age, breed or sex of dog can be affected. Common risk factors for leptospirosis in dogs residing
in the United States include:
•
Exposure to or drinking from rivers, lakes or streams;
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Roaming on rural properties (because of exposure to potentially infected wildlife, farm animals, or
water sources);
•
Exposure to wild animal or farm animal species, even if in the backyard;
•
Contact with rodents or other dogs (such as in urban areas, dog parks or multi dog working
facilities).
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!
Traveling with Your Pet
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Make sure your pet is comfortable with travel
◦
Some pets cannot handle travel because of illness, injury, age or temperament.
◦
If your pet is not good with travel, you should consider a reliable pet-sitter or talk to your
veterinarian about boarding facilities in your area.
Make sure your pet has identification tags with up-to-date information.
Having your pet implanted with a microchip can improve your chances of getting your pet back if it
becomes lost. The microchip must be registered with your current contact information, including a cell
phone number. A tag is included when you have a microchip that has the microchip number and a
mobile contact of the owner, so if the pet is found, they can use the tag to determine ownership
without having to contact a veterinarian. Contact the microchip company for a replacement tag if
you've lost yours, and for information on how to update your personal information when traveling.
If you are taking your pet across state or international borders, a health certificate is required. The
health certificate must be signed by a veterinarian after your pet has been examined and found to be
free of disease. Your pet's vaccinations must be up to date in order for the health certificate to be
completed.
Make sure that your pet is allowed where you are staying. Some accommodations will allow pets and
some will not, so check in advance. Also, when traveling, you should bring a portable kennel with you
if you have to leave your pet unattended.
!
4-H Dog Showmanship
Taken from the Indiana 4-H Dog Showmanship Guide, found at:
http://home.comcast.net/~4hdogclub/Files/4-H-716-W-Showmanship.pdf
Objectives for the 4-H Participant:
• To develop leadership, initiative, and responsibility.
• To develop self-confidence and patience.
• To learn show procedures, rules, and etiquette as a dog handler.
• To develop high standards of sportsmanship when dealing with judges, competitors, and the public.
• To learn about the positive experience of dog ownership and of presenting the dog in the show ring.
• To learn how to win and how to lose gracefully.
!
Showmanship Philosophy
Showmanship is concerned with how well the dog is shown by the handler. The dog’s conformation or its
being purebred is of no importance. The emphasis is on the handler’s presentation of the dog standing still and
in motion. The handler must convey knowledge and understanding of the dog’s breed, or the breed chosen as
that which the dog most resembles. The handler should present the dog according to the chosen single breed
standard. The handler and dog appear to be part of a team. They work well together, move fluidly, and give
an overall picture of being one unit. If a dog moves out of place or makes an error, a good handler is aware of
this. The handler quickly and efficiently adjusts for the fault and resumes his/her presentation of the dog.
!
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Guidelines and Procedures for Showmanship
Appearance of the Handler
The entire picture of the dog and handler should be one of symmetry and be appealing to the judge. The
handler should appear neat and well groomed. Girls and boys must wear dress outfits that are modest and
appropriate for drawing attention to the dog, not the handler. Clothing color should complement the dog, but
not necessarily match the dog. Recommended shoes include tennis shoes or soft-soled shoes.
Blue jeans are not considered appropriate attire for any handler. Clothing should not distract, limit, or hinder
the judge’s view of the team. Handlers are to use good judgment concerning any makeup or accessories, and
in styling hair away from their face.
Attitude of the Handler
The handler must be a good sport in the ring and outside the ring. He/she must exhibit a positive attitude
toward other exhibitors as well as the judge. Courtesy to the judge and the other handlers is important.
Handlers must be alert and attentive to what is going on in the ring, as well as to their dog, and its behavior.
Smoothness and continual control of the dog is mandatory.
Handlers should listen to the judge’s directions. If a handler is unable to hear what the judge says for
directions, he/she should ask the judge to please repeat what was said.
Handlers should not stare at the judge with an exaggerated smile. Staring at the judge makes most judges
uneasy, and the exhibitor gains no advantage. Handlers need to be aware of the judge’s presence at all times
and should occasionally make brief eye contact with the judge. It is important for a handler to convey that
he/she is enjoying showing his/her dog. Smiling is good, but it should not be overbearing or have the
appearance of insincerity. Double handling is not allowed. There should be no help from outside the ring to
coach a handler or distract a dog.
!
Appearance of the Dog
The dog should be well groomed with clean, mat- free hair, toenails cut to the proper length, teeth cleaned,
and void of fleas and ticks. Its eyes should be clear, and its coat free of tear stains. Its ears should be clean
with no excess earwax or dirt. Whiskers and hair on the legs, feet, and ears can be trimmed if it is appropriate.
Not all dog breeds should be trimmed and void of whiskers. Dogs should be groomed before the competition
without the use of dyes, talc powder, or other cosmetics. Dogs should not wear scarves or have painted nails.
Bows or bands should be worn only by appropriate breeds.
!
Show Ring Procedures
Armbands should be worn on the left arm with the number visible to the judge.
Before judging begins, the procedure for entering the ring should be made known. The procedure used is
entirely at the judge’s discretion; he/she may call handlers in as a group or individually.
Judging will begin when the handler and dog enter the ring. The handler should set up (stack) the dog quietly
and quickly, ideally leaving three to four feet between them and the dog and handler directly in front of them.
Do not crowd. The judge needs room to walk between dogs if he/she prefers.
!
To stack a dog, it is best to set up the dog’s front end first. The handler should lift a front foot if necessary by
grasping the leg at the elbow. Position the rear legs by grasping the stifle or hock to place the feet. Should
matting be provided, the dog should be stacked near the inside edge of the mat. Allow room for the judge to
walk between the dog and the ring fence. Keep moving forward and restacking the dog as the dogs in front are
individually gaited and moved to the end of the line. When a class is very large, the judge may divide it and
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tell some handlers to relax their dogs. Relaxing does not mean not paying attention. While relaxing, it is not
necessary to stack your dog or keep it alert at all times. Be alert for the judge to call your group back again.
!
Bait (treats) and/or toys are allowed, and when used properly, capture and hold the dog’s attention. These
should be used without distracting other exhibitors or the judge. Talking to the dog is permissible providing
discretion is used. For breeds normally examined on the table at conformation shows, the handler should
follow the judge’s instructions about when to table the dog. Unless indicated otherwise, the handler should
place the dog on the table while the preceding dog is being gaited. Stack the dog facing the judge, with the
front feet approximately one inch away from the edge of table.
!
During the individual exam, the judge will normally ask the exhibitor to “show the bite” (teeth). To show the
bite, gently pull up the lips to reveal the bite of the dog with the mouth closed, keeping the leash out of the
way. Premolars may be shown by raising the flews on each side of the dog’s mouth. If the breed standard
indicates the necessity to count teeth, the mouth should be opened wide enough to do so. If required, the
mouth should be opened to display the color of the gums or tongue.
!
As the judge begins to examine the dog’s front, the handler should move out of the way. The handler needs to
adjust his/her position as needed during the exam, while keeping control of the dog. Should a judge disturb
the coat, or misplace a foot, the handler should reposition the coat or foot.
!
Gaiting
Gaiting means to move the dog in the pattern requested by the judge. Movement should be smooth, in a
straight line, and at the correct speed according to the dog’s size and breed standard.
!
The acceptable gait is a controlled trot. Remember, the speed for the “pattern” may be different than for the
“go around.” Handlers should make every effort to keep their dog between themselves and the judge. It is
permissible for a handler to momentarily block the judge’s view of the dog when making turns in gaiting
patterns. If matting is provided, keep the dog centered on it while gaiting. Handlers should have the proper
lead and lead placement when moving their dog. Adjust the lead to the right length by gathering the excess
lead in the hand closest to the dog so that no part of the lead is dangling while gaiting.
!
Handlers and dogs should move in unison with each other and look like a well-trained team. Allow the dog to
move freely and naturally. At the beginning of the individual gaiting pattern, a courtesy turn is optional. A
properly executed courtesy turn will allow the handler to align with the judge and the path to be taken. This
small turn in front of the judge is also called honoring the judge.
!
Handlers should maintain good posture when moving their dog. Handlers should constantly be aware of their
dog, the route, and the judge’s position in the ring. It is not necessary to look at the judge and smile all the
time. Occasional quick glances and a smile at the judge will indicate that the handler is being attentive.
!
Gaiting Patterns and Diagrams
Patterns are a systematic way of moving the dog around the ring. The most common patterns are: the Go
Around, the Triangle and Reverse Triangle, the L, the T, the Diagonal, the Down and Back Alone, and the
Down and Back with Another Handler. The judge will instruct exhibitors about the pattern that he/she wants
completed. The pattern is to be consistent within the class. The pattern is at the discretion of the judge, but it is
recommended that initially the Triangle and the Down and Back be used for the junior class. More difficult
patterns may be used if the competition warrants.
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Jobs for Dogs
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Service dogs:
A service dog is a type of assistance dog, specifically trained to help people who have disabilities other than
visual or hearing impairment.
!
Hearing DogA hearing dog is a specific type of assistance dog specifically selected and trained to assist people who are
deaf or hearing impaired by alerting their handler to important sounds, such as doorbells, smoke alarms,
ringing telephones, or alarm clocks. They may also work outside the home, alerting to such sounds such as
sirens, forklifts and a person calling the handler's Dog Guide/Guide Dog. Guide dogs are assistance dogs
trained to lead blind or vision impaired people around obstacles.
!
Assistance dog
An assistance dog is a dog trained to aid or assist a person with a disability. Many are trained by a specific
organization, while others are trained by their handler (sometimes with the help of a professional trainer).
There are three general "types" in which an assistance dog may be further classified.[1] Most assistance dogs
will be trained for only one of these, though "combination" dogs do exist.
•
Guide dogs assist the blind and the visually impaired.
•
Hearing dogs, or signal dogs, help the deaf and hard of hearing.
•
Service dogs refers to dogs not specifically trained for visual or hearing impairment, but trained to do
other work, such as mobility assistance dogs, seizure alert dogs or other medical alert dogs, and
psychiatric service dogs. In the United States, the term "service dog" may be used synonymously with
"assistance dog," and is occasionally used for other types of working dogs as well. In most of the rest
of the world a distinct separation between service dogs and assistance dogs is observed.
Search and RescueThe National Association for Search and Rescue, Inc., (NASAR) is a not-for-profit membership association
dedicated to advancing professional, literary, and scientific knowledge in fields related to search and rescue.
NASAR is comprised of thousands of paid and non-paid professionals interested in all aspects of search and
rescue - the humanitarian cause of saving lives - throughout the United States and around the world. "...that
others may live."
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Beagle Brigade"The Beagle Brigade" is responsible for sniffing out and confiscating fruits, vegetables, and meats that are
banned from crossing the country's borders. The dogs and their human partners form a critical barrier against
the entry of plant and animal diseases into the United States.
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Police DogsA police dog is a dog that is trained specifically to assist police and other law-enforcement personnel in their
work. Police dogs are often referred to by the term "K9", which is a homophone of "canine", a word that
generally refers to dogs and dog-like animals.
Roles police dogs fill include:
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Public order enforcement dog - The traditional image of a police dog is one used to enforce public
order by chasing and holding suspects, or detaining suspects by the threat of being released. German
Shepherd Dogs and Belgian Malinois are most commonly used because of their availability (see
Popular Police Dog Breeds); however other dog breeds have also contributed, such as Dutch
Shepherds, Rottweilers, Boxers, Doberman Pinschers, Giant Schnauzers, American Pit Bull Terriers,
and American Staffordshire Terriers.
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Search and rescue dog - This dog is used to locate suspects or find missing persons or objects.
Bloodhounds are often used for this task.
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Detection dog - Some dogs are used to detect illicit substances such as drugs or explosives which may
be carried on a person in their effects. In many countries, Beagles are used in airports to sniff the
baggage for items that are not permitted; due to their friendly nature and appearance, the Beagle does
not worry most passengers[10].
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Cadaver dogs - Some dogs are trained in detecting the odor of decomposing bodies. Dogs' noses are
so sensitive that they are even capable of detecting bodies that are under running water[11] Pioneering
work was done by Dr. Debra Komar (University of Alberta) in Association with the RCMP Civilian
Search Dog Association in this area. The result was the development of training techniques that
resulted in near 100% accuracy rates.[12] Her research has been published in the Journal of Forensic
Anthropology.
Therapy Dogs
A therapy dog is a dog trained to provide affection and comfort to people in hospitals, retirement homes,
nursing homes, schools, with people with learning difficulties and stressful situations such as disaster areas.
Therapy dogs are not service or assistance dogs. Service dogs directly assist humans, and have a legal right to
accompany their owners in most areas. In the United States, service dogs are legally protected at the federal
level by the Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990. Therapy dogs do not provide direct assistance and are
not mentioned in the Americans with Disabilities Act.
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Grooming
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General
Proper grooming is an important part of pet care. It not only makes a companion animal look better, but
contributes to his or her physiological and psychological health.
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Coat
Brush your pet thoroughly every day. This helps keep his or her hair in good condition by removing dirt,
spreading the natural oils throughout the coat, preventing tangles from forming and keeping the skin clean and
free from irritation.
It is best to start brushing your pet at an early age, but do not despair if he or she is an older animal. It is
possible to train one to enjoy grooming. Proceed slowly, and be sure to use treats and plenty of praise to make
the experience fun!
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Nails
Trim your pet's nails about once per month. You'll need a clipper designed specifically for the kind of
companion animal you have. Either a scissor- or guillotine-style clipper can be used. You should also purchase
a small bottle of blood-clotting powder.
How to Cut Your Pet's Nails
1. Have your companion animal sit beside you. Then place one of his or her paws in your hand and
gently pull it forward. If your pet dislikes being handled this way, slowly accustom him or her to
it by offering treats and praise.
2. Gradually shorten one nail. Be sure to stop before you reach the quick, which is the part of the nail
that contains nerves and blood vessels. If you cannot see the quick clearly, stop cutting just
behind the point at which the nail begins to curve downward.
3. If you cut into the quick, do not panic. Put some clotting powder on a moist cotton swab and press it
firmly against the nail for several seconds.
4. Repeat the process until all of your companion animal's nails have been trimmed.
5. Do not forget to trim the dewclaw, which is located on the inside of each front leg just above the paw.
(Some dogs do not have dewclaws.)
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Ears
Ear care is an important part of grooming. Ear infections can not only be painful, but lead to permanent
hearing loss. The signs of a problem with a companion animal's ears include redness, constant scratching,
head shaking and odor.
How to Clean Your Pet's Ears
1. Check your companion animal's ears twice per month. The skin inside and on the flaps should be pale
pink. If there is a foul odor and/or any red, brown or black skin, have a veterinarian examine your
pet's ears.
2. Moisten a cotton ball with an ear cleaning solution and use it to clean the opening into the canal and
the flaps. Do not probe too deeply into the canal.
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Teeth
Companion animals can get cavities and develop periodontal disease, so their teeth should be cleaned with a
pet toothpaste at least twice per week. It is best to use a small toothbrush that has soft bristles. Cleanings
performed by a veterinarian may also be required.
Bathing
Bathe your companion animal once every two months or as often as needed. Be sure to brush him or her
before each bath in order to get all of the mats out of his or her coat.
How to Bathe Your Pet
1. Place a rubber mat in your bathtub, or a towel in your sink, for secure footing. Then place a cotton ball
in each of your companion animal's ears to prevent water from entering.
2. Rinse your pet with warm water. Use a spray hose if one is available, but be sure to keep the nozzle
very close to your companion animal's body. Never spray him or her in the face.
3. Apply a shampoo designed especially for pets in small amounts, working from the head to the tail. Be
sure to clean the rectum, between the toes, behind the ears and under the chin. Try to avoid
getting shampoo in your companion animal's eyes.
4. Thoroughly rinse your pet with warm water.
5. Dry your companion animal with a towel and/or hair dryer.
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Reproduction
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Only the Senior aged competitors will be responsible for this section!
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Puppies, both male and female, are born with their reproductive organs present but not fully
developed. The ovaries of the female puppy do not become fully developed until the puppy matures, usually
after six months of age. At birth in the male, the testicles are not usually fully descended within the scrotal
sac. They are generally positioned inside the abdominal cavity or located within muscles in the abdominal
wall.
Female reproductive anatomy
The reproductive system of dogs and humans are very similar. In the female, the reproductive system is
composed of the ovaries, oviducts, uterus, cervix, and vagina. The ovaries are the site of production of the
unfertilized eggs, and many of the hormones responsible for heat cycles and the maintenance of pregnancy.
The eggs pass from the ovaries into the oviducts. These small finger-like tubes are the site of fertilization by
the sperm. From there the eggs pass into the uterus, which is composed of the left and right horn and uterine
body. The developing embryos mature within the uterus, attached to its walls by the placenta which also
surrounds them.
Heat Cycles
The heat cycles of the female (bitch) are caused and controlled by hormones that are produced and released by
the ovaries and other glandular structures within the body. The ovaries are paired structures that become
increasingly active when the animal passes through puberty, at the first heat cycle. This ranges from between
five and eighteen months of age depending on the individual and the size of the animal. In the toy and small
breeds, heat cycles occur as early as five months of age, while in the giant breeds, this may not occur until the
animal is fourteen to eighteen months old. Typically, these cycles will occur every six to nine months
throughout the life of the animal. In the very young and very old, there may be 'silent heats' with no outward
signs that are detectable by the owner or sometimes even other dogs. Dogs do not undergo any form of
menopause. There have been rare cases of heat cycles resulting in pregnancies at fifteen years of age.
The heat or estrus cycle of the female is divided into four different stages. There is great variation in the
length of these cycles among individuals of the same breeds and among various different breeds. Additionally,
the same animal may have significant variations over the course of a lifetime. It is therefore impossible to talk
about the cycling of bitches using exact dates or time periods.
Proestrus: The first stage of a heat cycle is a preparatory period referred to as proestrus. This follows a
period in which the reproductive system, was from all outward appearances, inactive. Proestrus typically lasts
five to nine days. On the first day of proestrus, the vagina becomes swollen and a bloody discharge is soon
observed. During this stage males show an interest in the female, but she will be unreceptive to them.
Estrus: The next stage is referred to as estrus. This is the active breeding phase, and will usually last from
five to nine days. Bleeding from the vagina is very slight or completely absent at this point. Eggs are released
from the ovary and travel down the oviduct. During estrus males will definitely be attracted to and attempt to
mate with the female. The female will allow them to mount her, resulting in intercourse. In the dog, a 'tie'
usually occurs in which the male and female are held together physically, with the vagina tightly enclosed
around the glans penis. Ejaculation will occur and sperm cells will enter the uterus and make their way to the
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oviduct, where their union with the egg will result in fertilization. A tie, however, is not necessary for
conception to take place. The union of the egg and sperm results in the formation of a fertilized egg, which
is referred to as a zygote. This matures further, developing into an embryo and then a fetus.
Diestrus: Following estrus is the diestrus period. This extends from the time when the female dog is no
longer receptive to the male to the end of pregnancy. In cycles in which a pregnancy did not occur, diestrus
will last for a period of up to 80 days. In early diestrus, the embryos and their placentas attach to the wall of
the uterus, from which they will derive their oxygen and nutrients.
Anestrus: Following diestrus is anestrus. This is the quiescent period between heat cycles characterized by
no outward physical or behavioral signs of sexuality.
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Male reproductive anatomy
In male dogs, there is no seasonal period of increased or decreased sexual activity. Rather, they can be
stimulated at any time by nearby females that are in season (heat).
In the male, the important structures of the reproductive system are the testicles, ductus or vas
deferens, prostate gland, and penis. Sperm production and storage occurs within the testicles. Upon
ejaculation, the sperm is transported to the prostate gland by the vas deferens. Within the prostate, additional
fluids are added to the sperm to nourish it and aid in its transport from the penis and through the uterus.
The sperm and prostatic fluids, at the level of the prostate gland, enter the common urethra and are
carried from the body through the penis. The penis of the dog has two specialized structures. The glans penis
is a bulb-like dilation at the base of the penis, which fills with blood and holds the penis within the vagina
during intercourse. Within the penis is a bone that maintains the shape and direction of this organ during
mating. The penis is protected from the environment, as it is enclosed within the sheath or prepuce.
The more common disorders of the reproductive tracts of puppies include vaginitis in females, and
cryptorchidism and phimosis in males.
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At what age can a dog have her first litter?
Puberty (the age at which animals can reproduce) in the dog is usually between 5 and 12 months of age. This
is when a dog will have her first heat. Some large breed dogs may not have their first heat until they are
almost 2 years old.
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How often does a dog come into heat?
Most dogs come into heat every 6 to 7 months.
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How can I tell if a dog is in heat?
Just prior to coming into heat, the dogs' vulva and breasts may enlarge and a bloody discharge will be seen
coming from the vulva. At this point, she is not yet ready to accept a male dog. When the vaginal discharge
becomes more yellow in color, generally in 4 to 13 days, she will accept the male. She will accept the male for
another 4 to 13 days.
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How long is pregnancy in the dog?
Dogs generally have their puppies 58 to 68 days after they are bred. The average is 63 days. This equates to 9
weeks (compared to humans have a gestation period of 9 months)
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How many puppies are in the average litter?
The average size of a litter is generally 6 to 10 puppies. The number of puppies in a litter often varies with the
size of the dog. Smaller dogs tend to have smaller litters.
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How many litters can a dog have in a year?
The average dog could have 2 litters a year.
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