Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile
Research
VOLUME 27
NUMBER 2
JUNE 2002
CONTENTS
Investigations into homogeneity of coir fibres
P K Banerjee, R Chattopadhyay & A Guha
111
Influence of some test parameters on friction in acrylic fibres
K R Salhotra, R V M Gowda & S M Ishtiaque
117
Twist structure of friction-spun yarns: Part I—Open-end DREF-II yarns
K R Salhotra, R Chattopadhyay, S Dhamija & R C D Kaushik
122
Low stress behaviour of jet-spun yarn
A Mukhopadhyay, I C Sharma & Abhishek Saha
130
Apron slippage in ring frame: Part II—Factors affecting apron slippage and their
effect on yarn quality
A Das, P Yadav & S M Ishtiaque
135
Influence of yarn structure, sizing ingredients and type of sizing on properties and
performance of sized yarns: Part II—A comparative study of sized yarn
performance for ring- and rotor- spun cotton yarns
A K Sengupta, P Pratihar, P D Kimothi, S Vernekar & M M Alamgir Sayeed
142
Influence of yarn structure, sizing ingredients and type of sizing on properties and
performance of sized yarns : Part III – A study of attrition during weaving for
air-jet, ring and rotor yarns on a modern high speed weaving machine
A K Sengupta, P Pratihar, P D Kimothi , S Vernekar & M M Alamgir Sayeed
149
Properties of polyester/ wool parent and air-jet textured yarns and their fabrics
V K Kothari & S K Bari
156
Improvement in surface-related properties of poly(ethylene terephthalate)/cotton
fabrics by glow-discharge treatment
T Öktem, N Seventekin, H Ayhan & E Pişkin
161
Crease-resistant finishing of jute fabric using polycarboxylic acids
A Bagchi & S G Saha
Weighting of silk by graft copolymerization technique
S R Karmakar, S Mandal, K Das, D Sadhukhan, S Ghosh & R Manna
166
Alternative reducing system for dyeing of cotton with sulphur dyes
R B Chavan & Shirishkumar Vhanbatte
179
Synthesis of substituted benzyl ethers and their moth proofing activity against wool
pest Anthrenus flavipes Le Conte
Chandrashekhar Waman Acharya & Vidhya Joshi
184
171
Thermal studies on cellulose cyclohexenephosphonate in air
J B Dahiya & Sushila
189
Short Communication
Property modification of Antheraea
copolymerization
A M Das, C N Saikia & S Hussain
Review Article
assama
silk
fibre
through
graft
194
Solvent-induced modifications in poly(ethylene terephthalate) structure, properties
and dyeability
D Chidambaram, R Venkatraj & P Manisankar
199
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 111-116
Investigations into homogeneity of coir fibres
P K Banerjee, R Chattopadhyay & A Guha
Experimental investigations on certain dimensional and mechanical properties of retted coir
fibres reveal a very broad spectrum. The fibres measuring less than 150 mm in length appear very
similar in terms of all the properties investigated and hence it is suggested that these fibres should be
targeted for segregation and softening in order to design new processes and products  among others
the very promising coir-based geotextiles  for coir industry.
Keywords: Coir fibre, Geotextiles
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 117-121
Influence of some test parameters on friction in acrylic fibres
K R Salhotra, R V M Gowda & S M Ishtiaque
The influence of operational factors on friction in acrylic fibres of 38 mm and 1.65 dtex has been
studied. The increase in normal force decreases the coefficient of friction and results in a more
pronounced stick-slip effect. The values for friction indices 'a' and 'n' in the equation F=aNn are found
to be 0.71 and 0.90 respectively. The sliding speed has a great influence on the smoothness of fibre
movement. The stick-slip effect is more pronounced at slow sliding speeds and progressively reduces
at higher speeds with the result that the difference 's- d ' becomes smaller. The decrease in the area
of contact (fringe width) decreases the coefficient of friction.
Keywords: Acrylic fibre, Coefficient of friction, Frictional force, Sliding speed
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 122-129
Twist structure of friction-spun yarns: Part I – Open-end DREF-II
yarns
K R Salhotra , R Chattopadhyay, S Dhamija & R C D Kaushik
The twist structure of friction-spun yarns has been explored through the development of an
accurate method of twist measurement. It has been found that the optical method, based on the
measurement of fibre helix angle and helix diameter through the well-known tracer fibre technique, is
the most accurate technique for measuring twist. The twist values obtained by this method have been
found to correlate well with those given by other methods of twist testing. Corresponding correlation
coefficients and the regression equations have also been derived. The position of the integrating
fibres along the length of the fibre assembly zone does not influence the amount of twist inserted in
open-end DREF-II yarn. The level of twist is determined by the fibre and process parameters under
which the yarn is spun. Twist level drops with the increase in fibre length from 25 mm to 44 mm but
shows a slight increase thereafter. The coarser yarns show lower twist than the finer ones. The use of
coarser fibres results in lower amount of twist in the yarn while an increase in suction pressure
increases it.
Keywords : DREF-II yarns, Friction-spun yarns, Tracer fibre technique, Yarn twist
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 130-134
Low stress behaviour of jet-spun yarn
A Mukhopadhyay, I C Sharma & Abhishek Saha
The influence of first nozzle pressure, gauge length, main draft and condenser width on the
initial modulus and flexural rigidity of polyester and viscose yarns has been studied using the BoxBehnken experimental design. The interaction effect among the process variables has been analyzed.
It is observed that the initial modulus and flexural rigidity of jet-spun yarn increase with the increase
in first nozzle pressure, gauge length and condenser width individually when the other variables are
set at lower levels. However, the above yarn characteristics may decrease with the change of one
variable at a time keeping the other variables at higher levels. The changes in yarn flexural rigidity
with the process variables can be predicted from the yarn initial modulus.
Keywords : Air-jet spinning, Flexural rigidity, Initial modulus, Polyester yarn, Viscose yarn, Yarn
properties
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 135-141
Apron slippage in ring frame : Part II  Factors affecting apron
slippage and their effect on yarn quality
A Das, P Yadav & S M Ishtiaque
The effect of various roving and drafting parameters like roving hank, roving TM, top arm
pressure, spacer size and break draft on apron slippage has been studied. It is observed that both
bottom apron slippage and apron-to-apron slippage change with the change in the above parameters.
With the change in these parameters, when the apron slippage increases the yarn quality in general
deteriorates and vice versa.
Keywords : Apron slippage, Break draft, Roving TM, Spacer size, Top arm pressure
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 142-148
Influence of yarn structure, sizing ingredients and type of sizing on
properties and performance of sized yarns : Part II  A comparative
study of sized yarn performance for ring- and rotor-spun cotton
yarns
A K Sengupta, P Pratihar , P D Kimothi , S Vernekar & M M Alamgir Sayeed
A comparative study on influence of structural differences of ring- and rotor-spun cotton yarns
on the process of sizing and the performance of sized yarns against abrasion has been carried out
using the 6s and 16s ring and rotor yarns sized with cold and hot brand PVA at different
concentrations (9%, 7% and 5%) and drying rates (70°C and 140°C). It is observed that, in general,
the abrasion resistance of rotor yarns is better than that of ring yarns. The rotor yarns give better
abrasion resistance at 140°C because the higher temperature reduces size migration from inside to
surface of the yarn, thereby ensuring more uniform deposition of size along the cross-section of the
yarn. A better size distribution reinforces the open structure of rotor yarns and improves cohesion.
Keywords : Cotton, Ring yarn, Rotor yarn, Sizing, Yarn structure
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 149-155
Influence of yarn structure, sizing ingredients and type of sizing on
properties and performance of sized yarns : Part III – A study of
attrition during weaving for air-jet, ring and rotor yarns on a modern
high speed weaving machine
A K Sengupta, P Pratihar , P D Kimothi, S Vernekar & M M Alamgir Sayeed
How best the yarns of a given spinning system can be sized with optimum cost to overcome
attritive forces acting on warp yarns during weaving has been studied. Polyester/viscose (70:30) yarns
(30s) obtained from the three spinning systems, viz. air-jet, ring and rotor, were sized with cold brand
PVA and tested for abrasion and tensile properties. Using these yarns in warp, a plain weave fabric
was woven on a Dornier Rapier loom. The yarns were then unravelled from the fabric and tested for
the abrasion and tensile properties. It is observed that among the ring, rotor and air-jet yarns, the
excellent abrasion resistance is obtained with air-jet yarn at higher size concentration and slow rate of
drying. This is because at higher concentration there is good size film formation on the yarn surface
and at slow rate of drying more outward size migration takes place, resulting in better size
encapsulation. An air-jet yarn whose strength properties are derived from the tightness and
compression of the surface wrappings is, therefore, protected from the abrasion forces, caused during
weaving, by this size film for a longer duration.
Keywords : Air-jet yarn, Ring yarn, Rotor yarn, Sizing, Weaving
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 156-160
Properties of polyester/wool parent and air-jet textured yarns and
their fabrics
V K Kothari & S K Bari
Air-jet texturing of polyester/wool blended spun yarn has been carried out and woven and
knitted fabrics have been produced using parent and textured yarns. The properties of parent and
textured yarns and of the fabrics produced using parent and textured yarns have been compared. It is
observed that the yarn bulk increases while the tensile and evenness properties become inferior on
air-jet texturing. The textured yarn fabrics have lower air permeability, higher thermal resistance,
higher abrasion resistance and inferior strength-related properties as compared to the parent yarn
fabrics. Air-jet textured polyester/wool blend spun yarns can be used where higher comfort-related
properties are desirable.
Keywords : Air-jet texturing, Fabric properties, Polyester/wool blended yarn, Textured yarn
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 161-165
Improvement in surface-related properties of poly(ethylene
terephthalate)/cotton fabrics by glow-discharge treatment
T Öktem, N Seventekin, H Ayhan & E Pişkin
Poly(ethylene terephthalate)/cotton fabrics have been treated in low-temperature plasmas to
increase the hydrophilicity and, therefore, to impart soil resistance and to improve dyeability. The
fabrics have been treated in glow-discharge apparatus using acrylic acid and water plasmas. Two
alternative modifications were applied. The plasma conditions, such as exposure time and discharge
power, were varied to control the extent of plasma surface modification in the first approach, while
the acrylic acid content and the incubation time were changed in the second approach. It is observed
that the glow-discharge treatment significantly improves the wettability of the fabrics. More
hydrophilic surfaces are created due to the treatment and, therefore, the dyeability of the fabrics is
much better. No significant colour change, neither with repeated washing cycles nor with long period
of storage, is observed.
Keywords: Dyeability, Glow-discharge treatment, PET/cotton fabric, Soil resistance, Wettability
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 166-170
Crease-resistant finishing of jute fabric using polycarboxylic acids
A Bagchi & S G Saha
The potentialities of jute fabric to develop wrinkle resistance through crosslinking with
polycarboxylic acids, like citric acid and 1,2,3,4-butane tetracarboxylic acid (B T C A), as an
alternative to the conventional N-methylol compounds have been studied in the presence of
phosphate catalyst by pad-dry-cure technique. It is observed that for jute fabrics, B T C A shows
better crease recovery than citric acid at all the concentrations studied. Citric acid finishing may,
however, be used in the applications that do not require high crease recovery as it is less expensive.
FTIR spectroscopy reveals the formation of ester crosslinks between jute fibre and polycarboxylic
acid.
Keywords Butane tetracarboxylic acid, Citric acid, Crease recovery angle, Jute
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 171-178
Weighting of silk by graft copolymerization technique
S R Karmakar, S Mandal, K Das, D Sadhukhan, S Ghosh & R Manna
Wild silk yarns and fabrics have been graft copolymerized with two monomers, namely methyl
methacrylate (MMA) and methacrylic acid (MAA), using potassium peroxidisulphate and cerric
ammonium sulphate to minimize homopolymer formation. The optimum conditions of grafting have
been standardized. The changes in the dyeing behaviour using acid, basic and reactive dyes have also
been investigated to understand whether the grafting should be carried out before, after and during
dyeing operation. It is observed that the graft copolymerization with MAA and MMA affects the
dyeability of silk. The effect on various physical properties of silk fibres grafted before and after
dyeing is quite noteworthy. The higher the graft add-on the more is the variation in physical
properties. The dyeing followed by grafting using reactive dyes shows favoured properties and is
recommended for weighting of silk on industrial scale.
Keywords : Breaking load, Degumming, Drape coefficient, Dyeing, Grafting, Weighting
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 179-183
Alternative reducing system for dyeing of cotton with sulphur dyes
R B Chavan & Shirishkumar Vhanbatte
An attempt has been made to replace sodium sulphide by reducing sugar, obtained by acid
hydrolysis of molasses, in dyeing of cotton with sulphur dyes. The results of dyeing using reducing
sugar in alkaline condition have been compared with those of the conventional dyeing with sodium
sulphide. It is observed that the depth of shade, expressed as K/S value, is deeper in case of dyeing
with reducing sugar than in conventional dyeing.
Keywords:
Cotton, Dyeing, Molasses, Reducing sugar, Sulphur dye
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 184-188
Synthesis of substituted benzyl ethers and their moth proofing
activity
against wool pest Anthrenus flavipes Le Conte
Chandrashekhar Waman Acharya & Vidya Joshi
Substituted benzyl phenylethyl ethers (IIIa-d) and dibenzyl ethers (IIIe-h) have been
synthesized and evaluated for moth proofing activity against the larvae of Anthrenus flavipes Le
Conte on woollen fabric. It is observed that the benzyl phenylethyl ether (IIIa) is effective at the
treatment level of 0.5% on the fabric weight. The incorporation of substituent containing NO2 group
in IIIa and dibenzyl ether (IIIe) reduces the moth proofing activity to a considerable extent.
Keywords: Anthrenus flavipes Le Conte, Benzyl phenylethyl ether, Dibenzyl ether, Moth proofing,
Wool
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 189-193
Thermal studies on cellulose cyclohexenephosphonate in air
J B Dahiya & Sushila
The flame retardancy of the cellulose cyclohexenephosphonate (CCHP) has been investigated by
the kinetics of thermal degradation using differential thermal analysis (DTA) and thermogravimetry
(TG) from ambient temperature to 700C in dynamic air. Various parameters such as energy, entropy
and free energy of activation have been calculated using the Broido method and transition state
theory. For the decomposition stage of thermal degradation, the activation energy of CCHP has been
found to be 133.83 kJ mol-1 which is lower than that of cellulose (187.0 kJ mol-1). Higher char yield
of CCHP as compared to cellulose leads to the conclusion that CCHP is a good flame retardant. The
IR spectra of the chars of modified cellulose indicate formation of compounds containing C=O, C=C
and P=O groups. The mechanism of thermal degradation of CCHP has been proposed.
Keywords: Cellulose, Cellulose cyclohexenephosphonate, Flame retardant, Thermal degradation
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 194-198
Property modification of Antheraea assama silk fibre through graft
copolymerization
A M Das C N Saikia & S Hussain
Graft copolymerization of methylmethacrylate and acrylamide onto Antheraea assama silk fibre was carried
out in aqueous medium using CeIV initiator system. The extent of grafting was evaluated as a function of reaction
time and temperature. The grafted products were characterized by infrared spectroscopy. Their thermal behaviour
was studied by TG and DTG techniques in static air at 20C min-1 in the range 30-800C and the surface
characteristics were studied with the help of scanning electron microscopy. The grafted fibres exhibited absence of
water staining with decrease in water retention values and increase in tensile strength.
Keywords : Acrylamide, Graft copolymerization, Methylmeth-acrylate, Non-mulberry silk, Vinyl monomer,
Water retention value, Water staining
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 27, June 2002, pp. 199-210
Solvent-induced modifications in poly (ethylene terephthalate)
structure, properties and dyeability
D Chidambaram ,, R Venkatraj & P Manisankar
Poly (ethylene terephthalate) fibre (PET) is the commonly used man-made fibre for majority of
end-use applications. In the past few decades, the significant technological developments have taken
place pertaining to the production processes of PET. Regarding the dyeing of PET, there is a constant
upsurge in research and development activities to modify the structure of PET with a view to develop
energy efficient processes. Among the notable developments, the low molecular weight solvent
treatment results in physical modifications of polymer and fibre like PET, which include structural
modifications and changes in properties. Owing to the structural modifications of PET fibre, the
dyeability also improves. Some of the pioneering works on solvent-induced modifications of PET
structure, properties and dyeability during the past few years have been reviewed.
Keywords: Poly(ethylene terephthalate), Structural modification, Mechanical properties, Dyeability