2007 Travel Report and Historical Items of Interest, Part II October and November 2007 We flew out at 11:55 PM on Friday the 5th of Oct. for Auckland, New Zealand. I am not sure why all of the flights to the south pacific fly in the middle of the night but they do. It was a nine hour flight and was full. We arrived in Auckland on Sunday morning (we had to pass the date line so we missed Saturday). By the time we retrieved our luggage and went through immigrations and customs and got to our hotel we were ready for another nap. We were pleased to have Professor Dr. Raymond Thompson traveling with us. He is over the special education program in the college of Education at BYU-H. He had a meeting with the minister of Education in Tonga regarding inclusionary education for the disabled students in the country of Tonga. BYU Hawaii is very involved in the educational objectives in the Pacific Islands. We felt bad we could not hear or see general conference. We will have to read it in the Ensign when it comes out. We rested most of the day and then took a little walk. New Zealand has wonderful weather, COOLER and LESS HUMID. It was very refreshing. We did however have to get up early and catch a 7 am flight to Tongatapu. Our flight was delayed so we did not get into Nukualofa until 11 am. We were met by Elder and Sister Embley and Elder and Sister McLaughlin at the airport after going through immigration and customs again. Elder and Sister Embley are assigned to Liahona High School and Elder and Sister McLaughlin are assigned over the 5 middle schools in Tonga which are located on the islands of Tongatapu, Vava’au, Ha’apai, and Ewa. The Embleys are very busy with classes for the teachers working toward their bachelor’s degrees and McLaughlins are reading specialists and are testing and tutoring students and teachers in English reading and comprehension. Both couples are providing such a valuable service and are so faithful in their callings, they are an inspiration to us. We stayed in housing for guests on the Liahona campus. It is very nice and has a washer and dryer out back so we can do laundry as we need. We are grateful to the school administrators and country directors for the gracious offer of housing while we visit the schools. It was so good to meet with Mele the Principal at Liahona and the heads of departments. We were able to visit at least a half a dozen classrooms and talk with the teachers and students. There was a special moment when we presented the Bachelors of Science Degree Diploma to Nautalus Kaho who had finished her degree at BYU Hawaii but had not yet received her diploma. We carried it with us and presented it to her in front of her class of students. She was teary eyed, as were we. What a marvelous experience for those students to see. Hopefully it will give them inspiration to accomplish the same goal. President and Sister Shumway were pleasantly surprised when we presented them with a case of the books “Tongan Saints” that President Shumway wrote. They were hoping somehow they could find a way to have them brought to Tonga from Hawaii. We were glad we could help. We had a nice visit with Sister Shumway when we dropped them off at their new home. They have been called as the President and Matron of the Tongan Temple. The Temple has just been enlarged and remodeled and they were having tours before it is dedicated the first week in November. We were able to take a tour and it is absolutely lovely inside and out. What a wonderful blessing for the wonderful brothers and sisters in Tonga. We had dinner at the Waterfront Café with all the ITEP couples, and Mele and her husband. Our flight scheduled to the island of Eua was cancelled as the travel coordinator for the church in Nukalofa could not promise us we could be back in time to make our flight Friday to the island of Va’vau as flights to Eua are frequently cancelled. It is a 6 minute flight but if you take a boat it takes 8 hours. It is across the Tongan Trench and has at times terrible turbulence on the water. We had the opportunity to visit the three middle schools of Pakilau, Havalu and Liahona on the island of Tongatapu. They are wonderful facilities and each staff is excellent. We visited with each principal and a variety of classes and talked with the students. The library at each school has been organized and is an inviting place to enter. The students appear very happy and eager to learn. All of these schools are taught completely in English. We are always trying to increase the ability of the students to read and comprehend English. The students are very bright and memorize scriptures exceedingly well but struggle with the comprehension of the text. Our goal is to help facilitate increased comprehension and other reading skills. The students were having reviews for their year end exams that were coming up the next week. .We also, unannounced, stopped by a government school, Tonga Side Elementary, and talked with the principal and saw the children speaking English and reading in English. The rooms were small, dark and well worn but the children and teachers were wonderful. We then had to run to downtown Nukalofa to use our credit card at the bank ATM for 1000 pa’anga which equal $500.00 US to pay for our flight to Vava’u and Ha’apai as for some reason the credit card machine at the Church Travel Office would not accept the BYU Travel credit card. We hurried back to Liahona campus to attend a class being taught by Elder and Sister Embley. We traveled by small plane to the island of Vava’u and attended church in a Tongan speaking ward. A sweet sister behind us interpreted for us during Relief Society opening exercises. Sister Harrison a senior ITEP missionary gave the lesson in English and her husband taught the age 16 class in Sunday School in English. Sacrament meeting was in Tongan but we were able to wear headphones with a Tongan sister in the back of the chapel interpreting for us. What an experience! The Tongan people are extremely humble and spiritual and boy can they sing! It was a privilege to worship with them. We also had an “adventure” while in Vava’u. We went on a ride in the new church van and were heading for a beautiful spot on top of a set of cliffs to have a picnic. We were well away from houses and going down this dirt road which became muddy and had big mud puddles. All of a sudden we sank into a large one - and the van was stuck. Elder Harrison tried rocking the van to get out but to no avail. Then Elder McLaughlin and Elder Salvesen got out and tried to push - still stuck. At this point the three sisters got out the back door of the van because the sliding door at the side was stuck in the mud. Then Elder McLaughlin crawled under the rear of the van and tried to work a jack under the rear axel. It kept sinking into the mud. I was so afraid that the van was going to move and sink further and crush him. We were beginning to think that we would have to walk back to where we left the side road and get some help when I heard the distant sound of a motor. Over the next 5 minutes the sound became louder and louder and suddenly around the corner came 5 four-wheelers on an excursion. They were all big men and were very willing to push the van out of the hole. They accomplished that in one big push. We turned around and headed back to civilization! We stopped by the roadside and had our picnic in a safer bug free area. When we got back to the school housing it was so cute to see the men out there scrubbing all the mud off the van. It looked pristine when they finished. No one would ever know about our “adventure” The same evening we were invited to a “Real Tongan Feast”. We drove across the island to one of its many harbors. There were 6-8 various sized sailing boats anchored and some of the people from the boats were at the feast. These people were from all over the world. What a delightful mix of cultures. Also, there were local people at the feast site with their hand woven baskets, taupa cloths (painted with vegetable dyes), and handmade jewelry laid out on the ground selling them. It is beautiful work. We also had a Tongan Band play for us. They had guitars, drums, corrugated tin roofing that they used for drums, and sticks for beating together. The men and boys in the band were drinking Kava which made them very happy (they were not LDS). It must have been the first drink of Kava for one of the younger boys as he tasted it he pulled a terrible face and got up and ran over to the bush and spit it out. There were some beautiful dancing by the young girls and boys. It was very well done. We then were escorted to a long table that had been covered with banana leaves for the table cloth and the food was placed in coconut shells, wrapped banana leaves, stems from the banana plants. There was no cutlery to eat with and no plates. We were instructed that we would eat with our fingers and no napkins were provided. The food was cooked in the traditional umu (outdoor cooking) on the ground. The menu consisted of fresh bananas, pineapple, tapioca root, papaya, mango, lobster salad, raw fish salad, baby octopus, a sticky banana bread wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in the umu, fried fish fritters, dumplings in custard cooked in a taro leaf, watermelon, bananas, chicken and fish both wrapped in taro leaves and cooked in coconut milk. I have never had a meal that I had to eat with my fingers and I knew I needed to try the octopus so I closed my eyes and popped it into my mouth and started chewing. Amazingly it was really good. I thought it would be rubbery but it was not at all. I did not however take a second bite. It was a mental thing! Elder Salvesen enjoyed his whole serving of octopus. It was a wonderful evening. We even had the opportunity to explain what an LDS Missionary is and what we are doing for our mission. We flew back to Tongatapu on Tuesday October 17, 2007, had a dinner hosted by the Embleys and packed for our flight the next day to Auckland, NZ . On Thursday October 18th we rented a car (remember British countries drive on the other side of the road) and drove into downtown Auckland to the church office building and met with Mark Pugh who is the CES director of the South Pacific. It was a great meeting and we felt so good about our work connecting CES and ITEP programs so as to meet the needs of the students and teachers on a higher level than has before been accomplished. The next day October 19th we drove to Hamilton and Temple View where the Church College of New Zealand and the Temple is located. It is about a 1 ½ hour drive from Auckland through beautiful countryside. It was just turning spring and it was great to see all the cattle and sheep grazing on the hillsides. We were able to meet with Kelvin Doody who has been directed to develop the new curriculum for the church schools in the South Pacific. What a marvelous experience we have had meeting with such great spiritual men. We then drove back to our hotel for the night and took a noon flight on the 20th back to Honolulu. We again crossed the dateline so we arrived in Honolulu on the 19th We were home for two days and welcomed Elder and Sister Wheeler in from the mission home in Provo. They were heading to Fiji after a week of training with us. What a marvelous couple with great testimonies. They had both lost their spouses 29 years ago and had married and had another child which gave them a total of 15 children of yours, mine and ours. I stand in awe of this great couple. On October 29, 2007 we dropped the Wheelers off at departures at the airport and drove around to arrivals and welcomed Elder and Sister Smart coming in from Samoa. They had just completed their 18 month mission at Pesega. We were privileged to have them here reporting their mission to the School of Education Staff and then drove them to the airport to catch a flight to home on Wednesday the 31st of October. On Sunday October 4th we drove again to the airport and welcomed Elder and Sister Ratliff coming in from completing their ITEP mission at the Church College of Fiji in Suva, Fiji. Monday October 5, 2007 they gave their report to the School of Education Staff and then we headed for the airport with the Ratliffs to pick up Elder and Sister Winegar coming in from the MTC in Provo on their way to Tarawa Kiribati. Elder and Sister Ratliff rode with us and we all went to dinner at Haliwa Joes in Koneohe and then drove back over the mountain to take the Ratliffs to the airport to catch their flight to the mainland at 10:20 pm. The Elders and Sisters are amazing people that have taught Mike and I much by their examples and testimonies. On Friday October 9, 2007 we drove down to the airport to welcome yet another returning missionary couple Elder and Sister Harrison who have been serving as ITEP missionaries on the island of Vava’u in Tonga. This is their third mission and served 21 months working hard with teachers and students at Saineha High School. On Sunday October 11, 2007 we had both couples over to our apartment for dinner. We served them roast, baked potatoes and carrots with green salad. We know they can’t get good beef in the South Pacific and sometimes none at all. Later that evening we drove the Winegars to the airport to catch their flight to Kiribati which took off at 12:35am on Monday October 12th. As you are beginning to notice that all the flights going back and forth from the South Pacific go and come in the middle of the night. On the 14th of October we said goodbye to Elder and Sister Harrison at the airport for their 11:20 pm flight to the mainland and home. We then we had an hour drive back to Laie. It is only 32 miles to the airport in Honolulu from Laie but the road curves along the edge of the island and thus takes an hour. The next week we had the first ever phone bridge with all of our ITEP couples in the islands, CES in Auckland and CES in Salt Lake City. We are going to make this a monthly occurrence. We are so grateful for all the technology that has come into our lives that keep all of us connected. We are also working on providing satellite distance education to teachers in the South Pacific that are working for their Bachelors Degrees and Teaching Certificates. There are so many irons in the fire it is hard to keep up. We have no boring days in our life and thus our mission is flying by. On October 21, 2007 we had a lunch meeting with all the ILDS students, President and Sister Wheelwright from BYUH and Elder and Sister Baxter of the South Pacific Area Presidency. We were spiritually as well as physically fed. We feel very grateful that we are able to have so many spiritual experiences. We know our Heavenly Father is in charge and he willingly teaches us line upon line, precept upon precept. Elder Salvesen and I have been meeting by video and phone bridges in the past three weeks with Church offices in SLC, Area Presidency and CES Offices in Auckland New Zealand and BYU Hawaii to review and fine tune the plan for school curriculum and coordination of the CES (Church Education System), ITEP (International Teacher Educational Program) and BYU-H programs so they are on the same “page” and can be more effective in providing necessary material and information to the students and teachers. It has been a wonderful experience to meet and discuss the issues with such capable and inspired leaders. The Church Education System has allocated $300,000 this year to start replacing the textbooks in the Church Schools in the South Pacific. This is a huge help as the textbooks they are now using are outdated and there are not enough to go around. We are so excited about this advancement. Next year they are planning for a $300,000/year budget to replace textbooks and add to the libraries. A senior missionary ITEP couple (Elder and Sister Jensen) is helping to organize all the libraries as they travel throughout the schools and in addition Elder Jensen teaches science classes. Sister Jensen was a library specialist and Elder Jensen is a PhD meteorologist and science educator.