Zac Posen
Spring/Summer
Zac Posen2014
Spring/
Summer
2014
FMPC
505
505:Product Knowledge
Professor:
Wayne McLennan
Kat
Reed,
Sarah
Prepared By: Kat Reed, Sarah Stemmler, Pri
Stemmler,
Rajdev,
Kelcie Clarke
Priyan Rajdev, Kelcie
Clarke
Zac Posen: A Brief History
"I don't believe in the conservatism of fashion. Fashion is a thrill."
-
Zac Posen, 2005 Vogue
Early Years:
Zachary Posen was born October 24, 1980, in New York, New
York. 1His parents were Stephen Posen, a painter, and Susan
Posen, a corporate lawyer. His genetics may have been a
precursor to his creative talents and business savvy demeanour. Posen was brought up in
Soho, one of Manhattan's trendiest neighbourhoods, immersed in what one New York
Times account called "the art-and-money scenes of the 80s and 90s."2
Posen developed his love for fashion at a very young age. He was said to be known for
cutting up scraps of fabric as soon as he could wield scissors. 2 "I was not a young fashion
victim," Posen said of his early experiences, "I really had an idea of what I liked in fashion
and how I dressed."2 Therefore his creativity blossomed early. His childhood friends were
also talented and imaginative. His friends and creative influences included neighbours such
as actress Claire Danes and the daughters of artist Julian Schnabel.2 Overall, it seemed that
from his early life and upbringing, Posen was destined to enter into the world of art and
fashion to make his mark on the industry.
Education:
Posen attended St. Ann's Private School in Brooklyn and while he was still a sophomore he
interned with designer Nicole Miller.2 At 16, he enrolled in the Parsons School for Design
pre-college program where he studied pattern making.1 At 18 Posen was accepted to
1
2
Craven, J. (2011, May 11). Vogue: Who's who zac posen. Retrieved from http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/biographies/zac-posen-biography
Zac Posen. (2013). The Biography Channel website. Retrieved 10:12, Nov 28, 2013, from http://www.biography.com/people/zac-posen-594160.
Central Saint Martin's College of Art and Design, a prestigious design academy in London,
where he did a BA course in Womenswear.1
In the year 2000, Posen introduced himself to the world of fashion when he made a gown
for model Naomi Campbell.1 The gown became extremely popular and was borrowed by
many socialites, each of whom modelled it during high-profile events. During the time that
he constructed the piece, he was still a student! Never-the-less individuals within the
industry were eagerly waiting to see what Posen was capable of after this outstanding
debut.
Career:
After graduation, Posen moved back to New
York City and set up a workshop in his family's
home.1 His mom, Susan, gave up her law
practice to work as Posen's business manager,
and his older sister, Alexandra, became the
label's creative director.1 His career became a
family run business.
At the age of 21 Posen had his first runway show in 2002, which focused on feminine and
sculptured clothing designed for fashionable women.1 Extremely prominent and influential
leaders in the fashion industry, including Vogue editor Anna Wintour and LVMH Fashion
Group president Yves Carcelle, took a keen interest in his work due to its unique qualities.1
In 2004, Sean "P. Diddy" Combs became an investor in his line, and celebrity clients such as
Gwyneth Paltrow, Natalie Portman and Claire Danes began wearing his creations on the red
carpet.1 "It's very strong women [who wear my line]," Posen said of his customers.1
The economic downturn of 2008 hit his business hard, with a double-digit drop in sales.
Posen responded to the rough period by tightening up the company's finances and
producing Z Spoke, a less expensive line for Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as an affordable
collection for Target.1 Even when faced with tough economic times Posen still continued to
create beautiful high end ready to wear lines to appease his high end clientele and
showcase his extreme creativity and talent.
Currently, Posen's company produces three collections per year. The company has plans to
expand into lines of signature jeans, fragrances and retail in the future to reach a broader
consumer base.1 With his notable debut now a decade behind him, Posen is looking ahead
to the future, especially after his recent Spring/Summer Collection for 2014 hit the runway
this year.
Overview of Designer’s Aesthetics:
As a native New Yorker, Zac Posen has, from
childhood, been surrounded by fashion and art. Born
into a family of a painter and a lawyer in colourful
SoHo, Posen’s design aesthetic draws inspiration
from various stages in his life. As a child who
attended private school, Posen’s affinity for tailored
suiting and structure was apparent in his personal
style, and would soon be reflected in his eponymous
design house.
Years later, Posen’s design aesthetic is been understood by the fashion world as romantic,
flirty, feminine, with a fairy-take-like feel. Specializing in dresses, Posen’s influences change
from collection-to-collection, and range from “Old Hollywood” to his most current, famous
French actress Sarah Bernhardt, from the Belle Epoque period.3 In 2003, Vogue notes Posen
to “specialize in dresses that have definite links to the golden age of Hollywood. He thinks
this desire to dress like a glamour-puss reflects what he calls ‘women valuing their own
femininity’.”4
It is clear that Zac Posen adds his own
personal touch to every garment in the
collection no matter the inspiration.
The
delicate
pleating
and
ruffles
accentuate feminine curves and add
movement.
Through
manipulating
necklines, hemlines, fabrics and various
application processes, Posen nods to
his inspiration as reference, yet still
appears modern and wearable. Romanticism is always an element that is played-up in
Posen’s collections, and it is what he has become known for. It has been noted that “[Posen]
helped push young fashion in the direction of romantic party dresses”5, a commonality seen
in all his work, and one that links all of his collections dating back to 2005. One could argue
that his impressive attention to detail and imaginative reinterpretation of fabric use allows
his creations to be viewed as fashion or even elevated to the status of art. “Many of his
dresses are pleated, knotted, and sewn by hand, that lent itself to a few dozen pieces being
steeped in what felt like a fairy tale”4
Theme:
"Zac Posen RTW Spring 2014." WWD. WWD.com, 9 Sept. 2013. Web. 28 Nov. 2013. http://www.wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-towear-2014/review/zac-posen
4
Holt, Emily. "Fashion Shows." Zac Posen Spring 2014 RTW. Vogue.com, 9 Sept. 2013. Web. http://www.vogue.com/fashionweek/spring-2014-rtw/zac-posen/review/
5
"Zac Posen." - Voguepedia. Vogue.com, n.d. Web. 28 Nov. 2013. http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Zac_Posen
3
In Zac Posen’s Spring/ Summer ’14 show the models graced the Lincoln
Park runway in messy up-dos sprinkled with delicate flowers,
complimented by a makeup palette of simple nudes and peaches.
Dresses in pale shades of pink, green, and lavender floated down the
runway while mystical, almost tribal music filled the room. The
atmosphere was very much ethereal as if enchanting fairies were
presenting his flower like constructed gowns. It immediately evoked
images of Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream were Titania and
Peaseblossom wore dresses made of flower petals. Posen himself spoke
candidly in a Nylon interview describing his “field of dreams moment”
before coming back and draping his collection.6
Another inspiration Posen drew upon in this collection is his
long time muse Sarah Bernhardt and, her role in the 1911
film La Dame aux Camelias. This inspiration lent itself to the
flutter sleeves, copious ruffles, bias silhouettes, corsetry and
soft floral prints. This time period is renowned for its soft
romanticism with sensual womanly shapes and delicate
pallets.
Posen’s collection bloomed and was described as: a fairytale, romantic, a fantasy, and highly feminine. As always this entire collection was produced
in New York, allowing Posen to work in close proximity, focusing on construction and fine
detail “that for a ready-to-wear collection, approaches couture.”6
6
Craven, I. (2011. May 11). Vogue: Who’s who Zac Posen, from
http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/biographies/zac-posen-biography
Characteristics
One of the most prominent features of the textile grouping in Zac Posen’s Spring/Summer
‘14 collection is the extensive use of Novelty fabrics. Chiffon, Organza, Tulle, and Silk
combine to produce the delicately-luxurious palette for Posen’s most recent creations. In
this collection, Posen strategically elevates the status of a few of these Novelty fabrics,
thereby allowing others to fulfill the role of Basics. The lavish textile of a pale peach silk
takes on the classification of a Basic fabric when placed next to the delicate wisteria print
on a sister silk. The subtle touches, in the form of detailed prints and finishes, elevate the
status of textiles such as the satin weave silk and hand-plisse chiffon. As you can see from
the breakdown provided on the Fabric Characteristics Chart, Zac Posen developed a
balance between showcasing Novelty fabrics and reinforcing with Basics to bring his
collection to life.
All of the textiles employed in the 2014 Spring/Summer collection are constructed at least
in part from Silk, resulting in a high level of drapability. The inclusion of Chiffon and Tulle
emit a subtle sense of structure as dresses reminiscent of your favourite fairy-tale sway
down the runway. The combination of satin, jacquard and plain weaves highlight Posen’s
feature fabric, Silk, showcasing the textile’s range and versatility.
Fabric Characteristics Chart
Novelty/Basic
Treatment
Hand
Drape
Fibre Content
Chiffon
Novelty
Hand-Plisse
Slightly Slippery
Poor Drapability
Novelty
High Gloss Finish
Smooth
High Drapability
Silk
Novelty
Novelty
Jacquard
Wisteria-Printed
Textured
Smooth/Soft
High Drapability High Drapability
Basic
None
Smooth/Soft
High Drapability
Organza
Basic
None
Slightly Textured
High Drapability
Silk
Silk
Silk
Silk
Silk
Plain Weave
Plain Weave,
tightly twisted
yarns
Plain weave
Satin weave,
alternate S and Z warp-faced
twist yarns
weaving
Fibre Construction
Silk
Jacquard weave
applied using
matte and
Plain Weave
reflective
threads
Tulle
Basic
None
Rough/Stiff
Poor Drapability
Silk, Rayon,
Nylon or Cotton
Weft thread is
wrapped around
the warp thread,
creating strong
hexigonal design
Serviceability
The serviceability of a garment is defined by ‘how well the garment is fit for its particular
end use’7. In analyzing the serviceability of Zac Posen’s Spring/Summer ‘14 collection we
can view the ‘end use’ from two perspectives: each individual garments ‘fit’ with the
premeditated theme, and the collections ‘fit’ as a whole for the Zac Posen customer. The
collection must satisfy both of these ‘end uses’ to be considered serviceable.
A brief review of the garments is all that is necessary to confirm that Zac Posen has
achieved an impactful portrayal of his intended theme. The plethora of ruffles cascading
down the runway with every model’s stride, and the extensive use of top-weight fabrics
exemplifies the soft romanticism of Sarah Bernhardt in Dame aux Camelias.
In this
Spring/Summer ‘14 collection the featured fabric is silk, and whether it is utilized as a plain
weave or with the application of various treatments, the drapability and luster lends
beautifully to the evocation of 1900’s Parisian femininity. The combination of light and
luxurious fabrics with skilled design promotes the end use of illustrating the theme, and
thus the serviceability of these garments.
To examine the serviceability of the collection as it relates to the
‘fit’ with consumers we must determine who the end consumer
is. Through analysis of past seasons and the surplus of high
profile celebrities donning the label we can conclude that the
Zac Posen consumer is a vibrant, youthful, feminine,
independent woman who appreciates the artistic value present
in the craftsmanship of his garments. As mentioned previously,
this collection exudes femininity, which is supported through
the use of top-weight fabrics.
The vibrant and youthful
characteristics that are expressed by the Zac Posen woman are
reflected in his collection through the construction of the
7
Kiron, Md. Mazharul Islam. ‘What is Serviceability?’ Textile Learner. Retreived on October 28, 2013 from
http://textilelearner.blogspot.ca/2012/02/what-is-serviceability-factors-of.html
garments. The use of bias cuts and excessive draping combine with the pastel colour pallet
to provide a line that fulfills all of the needs required by end consumers. By cultivating a
collection that satisfies the end consumer and culminates to create a cohesive theme we
can conclude that the Zac Posen Spring/Summer ’14 collection is extremely serviceable.
Fabric’s Relation to Theme
Fabric choice is an essential part of the design
process. It not only changes the hand and feel, but
also the way the garment drapes, moves and flows, on
and off the runway. It is important to select fabrics
that relate to the designer’s theme. This is essential
because the right fabric choices will create a cohesive
and uniform look, while the wrong fabrics may isolate
individual pieces from the overall theme and
aesthetic.
As Zac Posen’s Spring/Summer ‘14 collection’s theme
has been described as a luxurious, romantic, flirty,
and feminine with a fairy-take-like feel, a choice of fabrics to convey this theme is
necessary. “With pale florals and ethereal fabrics, Posen — who, according to show notes,
sought to evoke a modern-day Sarah Bernhardt — provided the requisite romanticism
we've come to expect.”3 Through the careful selection of exquisite base and novelty fabrics,
Posen was able to effectively represent the theme in every garment sent down the runway.
As the theme has a luxurious romanticism linking the silhouettes, it makes sense that the
base and novelty fabrics are elevated. In this collection, Zac Posen chose base fabrics of silk,
"Zac Posen RTW Spring 2014." WWD. WWD.com, 9 Sept. 2013. Web. 28 Nov. 2013. http://www.wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-towear-2014/review/zac-posen
3
tulle and organza. In any other circumstance, these fabrics would be considered novelty,
but because Posen uses various other elevated novelty fabrics, these then serve as the base,
and are frequently seen throughout the collection. Using such luxurious fabrics as a base
sets the tone for the collection as one that is focused on quality, luxury and detail. This
choice reflects the theme well as these fabrics exude a feminine playfulness wrapped in a
fairy-tale-like romanticism. The novelty fabrics such as hand-plisse chiffon, jacquard silk,
pleated satin, and printed silk, were chosen because they further reflect this luxurious,
romantic, feminine theme. To make an already novelty fabric even more special, Posen
meticulously applies, by hand, fine details to the fabrics, elevating their uniqueness further.
The delicate pleating and ruffles accentuate feminine curves and add movement, allowing
Posen to nod to his inspiration, yet still appear modern and wearable. Romanticism is
always an element that is played-up in Posen’s collections, and is what he has become
known for. No piece in the collection was overdone. In fact, there was a lack of bulky trims
and embellishments. This kept the focus on the exquisite craftsmanship of the garments
and showcased true artisan skill. Zac Posen’s Spring/Summer ‘14 collection truly brought
his fairy-tale romantic concept to life through the careful selection of fine base, and novelty
fabrics, attention to detail and meticulous craftsmanship.
Conclusion
As a designer, Zac Posen was able to showcase his sought after talent in the recent 2014
Spring/Summer collection in relation to design,
construction and fabric content. Posen’s personal
aesthetics have developed and matured since his
birth as a New York designer. Within this recent
collection, he was still able to incorporate the
romantic, flirty and feminine looks that he has
been trademarked for, but with a modern and
risky twist. This progression allowed him to produce a collection that projected a theme
true to Posen’s essence as a designer; it evoked images of fairy tales, romanticism,
fantasies, and exuded extreme femininity. Although the theme was able to paint of picture
of simplicity, the designs that graced the runway were much more intrinsic. The feminine
silhouettes displayed were complex and intricate.
Over the years it is clear that Posen was able to master
techniques to manipulate fabrics such as silk, organza,
chiffon into beautiful creations. The characteristics of
the fabrics that Posen chose to personify his collection
allowed for a flowy, fantastical and ethereal portrayal
of his vision. Posen chose fabrics that were
challenging to work with and could be considered
unserviceable to most; as designers or potential wears
of the garment. But for the purpose of the collection
the fabrics were extremely serviceable as they fit with
Posen’s aesthetic and theme catered to the preference of his high status loyal customers.
Finally, the fabrics that Posen chose fit perfectly with the theme of the collection. Fabrics
such as silk, organza and chiffon evoke feelings of femininity and romance just in the way
that they look and feel. In addition to the floral prints, nude make-up and pastel hues
utilized in the fabrics, it was clear that Posen wanted the garments to speak to his vision of
a romantic fantasy. Overall, Posen stayed true to his heart in this collection. It was
traditionally feminine with a modernized twist. Maybe some were critical of the collection,
but it’s hard to say that a viewer of the runway show did not have insight to Posen’s initial
vision when creating the garments. The fabrics and silhouettes only amplified Posen’s
vision and extreme talent. Posen was able to prove within the Spring/Summer 2014 Ready
to wear collection that chivalry is not dead and dreams can come true, if only on the
runway during New York fashion week.
Zac Posen is only thirty-three yet he has established such an amazing and reputable career.
Not only does he produce one gorgeous collection after another, he is also well know on the
red carpets of Hollywood. As a designer to the stars he has created custom hand crafted
gowns for celebrities such as; Uma Therman, Gwenth Paltrow, Reese Witherspoon, Amanda
Seyfried, Naomi Watts, Oprah Whinfrey, Michelle Obama, Naomi Campell, and the list goes
on. Posen himself has attended The Oscars, The Emmy’s, The Met Gala, and the C.F.D.A.
awards, although in 2010 we saw a shift from his own celebrity
status to wanting to work more behind the scenes.
Posen was not always so successful; he’s struggled to define his
brand. Moving his shows to Paris Fashion Week and attempting
a sportswear line, he was highly critiqued for departing from
his specialty, formalwear. There have
also been hardships in the business of
his company. His mother the former
CEO resigned to make way for the
companies
current
president
Jillian
Sinel.
Under
Sinel’s
sovereignty the company has seen double digit growth, and Posen
is happy to return to more maternal relationship with the formal
CEO.
Going forward Posen has an optimistic outlook. Women’s Wear
Daily singled out Posen “as one of the handful of young designers
who had the potential to break into the industry’s top ranks”.
Works Cited
Bernstein, Jacob. "From the Red Carpet to the Bottom Line." The New York Times. N.p. 31
May 2013, http://www.nytimes.com/2013/06/02/fashion/zac-posens-path-fromthe-red-carpet-to-the-bottom-line.html?_r=0
Carpenter, Michael E. Chiffon Characteristics. eHow Crafts. Retrieved on November 17,
2013, from http://www.ehow.com/info_8642243_chiffon-characteristics.html
Craven, I. (2011. May 11). Vogue: Who’s who Zac Posen, from
http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/biographies/zac-posen-biography
Holt, Emily. "Fashion Shows." Zac Posen Spring 2014 RTW. Vogue.com, 9 Sept. 2013. Web.
http://www.vogue.com/fashion-week/spring-2014-rtw/zac-posen/review/
Kenney, Ian. Properties of Satin Fabric. Demand Media. Retrieved on November 5, 2013,
from http://crafts.creativebug.com/properties-satin-fabric-1565.html
Mills, Margaret. Properties of Tulle Netting. eHow Crafts. Retrieved on November 17,
2013, from http://www.ehow.com/info_8185643_properties-tulle-netting.html
"Zac Posen RTW Spring 2014." WWD. WWD.com, 9 Sept. 2013. Web. 28 Nov. 2013.
http://www.wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2014/review/zac-posen
Zac Posen. (2013). The Biography Channel website. Retrieved 10:12, Nov 28, 2013, from
http://www.biography.com/people/zac-posen-594160.
"Zac Posen." - Voguepedia. Vogue.com, n.d. Web. 28 Nov. 2013.
http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Zac_Posen
"Zac Posen." 2013. The Biography Channel website. Nov 28 2013, 02:46
http://www.biography.com/people/zac-posen-594160.
Zavozina, Olia. Information on Silk Fabrics: Types, Terms, Weaves. Olia Zavozina Fashion
Design. Retreived on November 12, 2013 from
http://www.oliazavozina.com/Blog/2009/09/information-on-silk-fabrics-typesterms-weaves/
Image Reference
http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Zac_Posen
http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Zac_Posen
http://www.arabiaweddings.com/news/zac-posen-talks-about-collaborating-joannanewsoms-wedding-dress
http://prafulla.net/graphics/fashion/zac-posen-ss-2014-new-york-fashion-week/
http://www.vogue.com/fashion-week/spring-2014-rtw/zac-posen/backstage/