Small Engine Disassembly - Notes Day 1 (sections 1, 2, 3 & 4) 1. Check ignition timing spark tester • Be sure to disengage all kill switches 2. Drain fuel and oil 3. Remove air filter funnel and oil pan flat screwdriver 4. Remove linkages to carburetor • Be sure to look at carburetor linkages to make sure you know how to put it back together. • Don’t use pliers to unhook linkages they are too fragile • Leave linkages attached to the carburetor side 5. Remove kill switch wire • Push up on the small brass tab 6. Remove carburetor and gasket 4-way screwdriver • Put screws back into the gas tank 7. Remove gas tank 8. Remove throttle assembly ½” socket and nut driver ½” socket and ratchet 9. Remove muffler 7/16” socket , nut driver, punch and plastic mallet • On some engines you will need to bend the tabs back 10. Remove blower housing 3/8” socket and ratchet • Remove oil fill and dipstick on some engines ¼” socket and ratchet 11. Check compression compression tester • Turn flywheel clockwise and note resistance or use a compression tester 12. Remove spark plug spark plug socket and ratchet Day 2 (sections 1, 2 & 3) 13. Check air gap flat feeler gauge • Rotate magneto until the magnets are across from the armature (magnetron/solid state ignition) 14. Remove armature and governor ¼” socket and nut driver • Rotate magnets away from armature • Do not expose coil and armature to cleaning solvents 15. Remove cylinder head ½” socket and ratchet • Try to keep the bolts in the same place/order 16. Remove cylinder head gasket 17. Remove valve chamber breather and gasket ¼” socket and nut driver 18. Check valve-to-tappet clearance flat feeler gauge • To check valve clearance the piston needs to be ¼” down on the power stroke • Using the feeler gauge measure the distance between the valve stem and the tappet Ø Intake valve clearance should be .005 to .007 Ø Exhaust valve clearance should be .007 to .009 19. Remove valves large screwdriver or valve spring compressor • Place screw driver underneath the edge of the valve spring keeper. • Raise the keeper with the screwdriver • Push the keeper back towards the engine block • Rotate flywheel and pull valves out 20. Remove valve springs and valve spring keepers • Be sure to keep the valve springs and valve spring keepers with the corresponding valve • Always put the stronger/heavier spring on the exhaust valve 21. Remove the flywheel flywheel holder, 15/16” socket and breaker bar, plastic mallet flywheel puller and 7/16” open end wrench • Hold the flywheel with the flywheel holder and use the 15/16” socket and breaker bar to loosen the flywheel nut • Remove flywheel nut and starter cup • Take the flywheel off the shaft Ø Lift upon the flywheel and gently tap the end of the crankshaft with a plastic mallet or piece of wood and a hammer or Ø Use the proper flywheel puller § Thread the flywheel nut back onto the shaft just so that the top of the shaft is just below the surface of the nut § Thread flywheel puller (using the top nut/self tapping screws) down into flywheel deeply § Turn nuts on the bottom of the puller down and tighten them § Start applying pressure to the flywheel by tightening the middle nut evenly on each side § Remove flywheel puller by loosening the bottom nuts then the top nuts/self taping screws § Remove large flywheel nut § Take the flywheel off the shaft 22. Remove and inspect flywheel key • Don’t loose flywheel key Day 3 (sections 1, 2, 23. Remove oil sump pan 3/8” socket, speed handle emery cloth, and plastic mallet • Place engine on it’s side • Remove any burrs, rough spots and/or rust from crankshaft with a emery cloth • Remove oil sump pan bolts with a 3/8” socket and speed ratchet • Tap oil sump pan with a plastic mallet to remove oil sump pan 24. Remove oil slinger 25. Remove camshaft • Tappets should remain in the proper position before removing the camshaft • Be sure to notice how the groove in the camshaft aligns with the dot on the crankshaft gear • Remove camshaft by lifting it from the block 26. Remove tappets tape • Be sure to label the tappets with a piece of tape in order to be able to replace them in their original place 27. Remove rod cap 5/16” socket and ratchet • Loosen and remove rod cap bolts with a 5/16” socket and ratchet • Remove rod cap • Note the position or alignment grooves when removing the rod cap so you will know how to put it back together 28. Remove piston emery cloth • Check for a ridge in the cylinder and remove it with a emery cloth • Turn the crankshaft to raise the piston to TDC • Continue to rotate the crankshaft until it is free of the connecting rod • Reach your hand inside the engine to push the connecting rod and piston up • Lift the piston and connecting rod from the engine • Be sure to notice the notch on the piston – it should be pointing up on vertical shafted engines when reinstalling 29. Remove the crankshaft • Pull the crankshaft straight out • Check the crankshaft for straightness by rotating on a level stand, check magneto end in a drill press or place in a lathe 30. Remove rings • Be sure not to break rings • Use your fingers to spread the rings and raise the opposite side • There is a small spring spreader below/behind the oil ring 31. Remove wrist pin long nose pliers • Remove snap/keeper ring using long nose pliers • Use a punch and rubber mallet to drive wrist pin through piston • Be sure to drive it out through the end that the snap ring was on • Notice the metal tab on the connecting rod should align with the notch on the top of the piston