The Evolution of the Camicia Baroness Rainillt Leia de Bello Marisco ( mka Lee Ann Posavad ) www.bellomarisco.com/pleatworks ~ email: Rainillt@yahoo.com The author of these works retains full copyright for all material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of documents for noncommercial private research purposes provided the author's name, the copyright notice, and this permission notice are preserved on all copies. Using the information found within these pages / site can be used for reference provided credit is given using the above citations to the author To document the camicia through the 15th and 16th century requires much conjecture and great leaps of faith. There are men’s shirts and undergarments dating one to two hundred years earlier. There are men and women’s extant chemises dating 100 years later. The inventories and household records generally date from the early part of the 16th century. By comparing this information with pictorial references, a time line of a garment can be deduced. This paper is one artisan’s thoughts on how a particular undergarment evolved and changed though a century of fashion. Documenting undergarments from the medieval and renaissance periods is difficult due to the lack of extant examples. Documenting women’s garments is even more complex due to the general lack of nonallegorical portraiture, which normally gives some insight to the garments of the time. Prior to the mid to late 15th century, women were painted in allegorical settings portraying the Madonna and various Saints. This does not necessarily preclude using the garments depicted in the artwork to help document clothing styles. After all, if you are paying to have yourself or your wife portrayed as a saint, she would of course have to be painted in the latest fashions and in the most opulent of fabrics. Finding supportive written documentation is also difficult when dealing with undergarments. Inventory records and sumptuary laws are the most common forms of written documentation. Undergarments are rarely included in household records because they seldom have any noted value. The few that have listed associated with them do so because of the expense associated with buying or making them. Fabrics The camicie were not gender specific in their description. The term could be used to describe either or male or female garment. Considered a form of under-blouse, it was generally made of fine linen, inexpensive cotton, or silk. Colors ranged from that of the natural unbleached color to fine bright whites (Frick 162). Men had their camicie made for them at the camiciaia, the women were responsible for ensuring that the household linens were made, including the undergarments for the rest of the family (Frick 40). Hints at the amount of fabric required for the camicia come from the letters written by the wives and family of the great families such as the Medici’s. Margherita Datini, writing to her husband Francesco in the early 1400’s, speaks of a length of linen cloth that she had previously made 8 undershirts for herself and 12 for him (Frick 41). Clarice Orsini, a member of the Medici family writing in the mid 1470’s, requests “twenty braccia (arm’s length) of linen cloth so that I can make camicie for these children” (Frick 41). Wardrobe accounts from the 15th century periodically mention camicia, mainly under listings for personal linens. Among the accounts of items not counted in the dowry of Tessa Guicciardini upon her marriage to Grancesco de Medici in 1433 are 17 chamicie (Herald 243). The household inventory of Puccio Pucci notes 18 chamicie da donna (woman’s shirt) valued at 14 fiorini, a price equal to one single gamurra (Herald 245). Pre-1400’s The undergarments worn during the late 14th and early 15th century were simple square cut construction according to popular theory. There would be little waste in this design. The fabric would have used selvage to selvage in many cases, putting less strain on the seams. The silhouette during that time was slim and form fitting, and the necessary undergarments would need to be minimal in fabric to fit under the outer layers. Evolution of the Italian Camicia Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Page 1 A garment thought to be worn by St Louis, dating from the 13th century shows the shape of this rectangular construction (Plate 1). In a drawing by Marc Carlson, he shows two possible layouts for the St Louis smock: one by Dorothy Burnham, from “Cut My Cote” and the bolder lines are from a study done by Heather Rose Jones, after she examined the garment. The patterns are very similar; the main difference is that Ms Jones suggests straight edges on the arms eye vs. a rounded edge and a more angled side profile. Plate 1: St Louis Smock Images taken from a panel painting of the “Fountain of Youth” date from approximately 1415 show two people in full length under-gowns ( Plate 2). While the figures are most likely male, it can be conjectured that the silhouette of the woman’s garment would be similar. These garments appear to be fuller than that of the St Louis shirt but this silhouette would be possible using rectangular construction. Cutting a more acute angle on the line from the shoulder to the hem would allow for increased fullness or draping on these and later garments. Additionally, adding gores to the side panels and increasing the size of the front and back gores would also achieve this result. The possibility exists that this garment is cut on the bias with wide angled sides. It would increase the amount of fabric used, but these were images of upper nobility and that would not be as much of a concern as it would be for the lower classes. The use of the bias would account for the drape starting at the neckline and would explain the drape of some of the garments in later periods. Plate 2: The Fountain of Youth Italian Camicia: Mid – Late 15th century (c 1440’s-1480’s) Through the early 15th century, artwork rarely shows women’s undergarments. It is not until about the 1440’s that glimpses of undergarment is seen. While some of the paintings are often allegorical, typically birthing scenes, the garments are in so many paintings by different artists, that it becomes more likely that the depicted clothing from current styles. Plate 3: Young Lady, c1470 Evolution of the Italian Camicia When people think of the camici of the Italian renaissance, they tend to think of the full, heavily pleated versions, with fabric puffed out through shoulder and sleeve seams. That version did not become fashionable until the late 1400s when the center-laced gamurra began to open up and expose the undergarments. Until that time, a simple ungathered version appears to have been worn. It is the authors conjecture that these camici were simply variations of the earlier rectangular constructed garments. Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Page 2 The best indication that the early camici were un-gathered necklines comes from the appearance of small tucks or folds in the neckline on the undergarment. These folds occur when the tighter overdress pulls in the body, which would cause even a close fitted undergarment to loosen. Even if the camicia fit perfectly with no gaping, as soon as the gamurra is laced over it, gaping would be created and the small pleats would appear. This small pleating is depicted so often in the images that it may have been a fashionable feature of the garment. Plate 4: ~ Carnevale 1467 Plate 6: Rossellino c 1460-1470 Portrait Bust of a Lady Plate 5: Verrocchio ~ 1480’s Plate 7: Portrait of a Lady Robbia ~ c 1465 Patterns and Layouts for Mid 15th century Camici The actual shape of this camicia is unknown. There are no known extant garments of this type. A few images show the shape of a camicia (Plates 8 and 9). The necklines are rounded, the sleeves are still narrow and there does not appear to be excess fabric over the body. In the image by Lippi (Plate 9), the sleeve line and the draping through the neckline and body hint that the garment is possibly cut on the bias. There are a number of possible patterns that can be used to create this garment. The actual layout to use will depend on your body shape, fabric widths and personal preferences. Plate 8: Cossa ~ 1476 If you are slight enough in the shoulder and bust it is possible to use a layout in similar to that of the St Louis shirt (Plate 1) in which the top of the sleeve fits at the top of the shoulder or slightly past it. Moving the sleeve further out from the top of the shoulder will put more fabric in the bust/body and will create some of the “puff” see through the sleeves without having to draw it up from the sleeve itself. Plate 9: Lippi ~ c1440 Evolution of the Italian Camicia Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Page 3 A few basic measurements need to be taken into consideration when making this garment: A : Sleeve length ~ The sleeve length should be from the point of the shoulder for the body of the garment to the wrist. Add in approximately 3-5 inches for extra fabric to create any desired “poof” on the forearm and ease. B : Shoulder to Bust ~ This is an imprecise measurement which will be dependent on which version you use. It is the measurement from the top of the shoulder (Point E ) to where the bottom of the sleeve needs to be without taking into consideration gussets. C : Bust ~ Measure this at the widest point. D : Length ~ Length of garment from top of shoulder to mid calf Plate 9: Lippi ~ c1440 E : Point of shoulder Version 1 : Angled Body Construction similar to the St Louis Shirt. Fold fabric in half, measure out a length equal to measurement D. Calculate distance between the tops of shoulders (E ). Add ease and divide by 2. Measuring out from the fold at the top of the fabric, mark a spot using this measurement. Draw a straight line from the top of the point on an angle to the full width of your fabric at the bottom. If you assume that available fabrics measured between 22” and 36” or so, this may not leave a lot of room around the bust at C. Gussets fitted under the sleeve will accommodate some of the required ease. Wider fabric of course allow a steeper angle and thus more room at the bust line. Side and front gores can be added for additional fullness in the body. Sleeves at the top of the shoulder ( on the fold ) should equal B + ease. Sleeve length is A. Version 3 : Straight Body Construction Measure around the rib cage just under the bust, add seam allowances, ease, and divide by 2. This is the width of the front and back panels. The bottom of the gusset end approx where the rib cage measurement was taken. The sleeve width is the same as for Version 1. Depending on how much room in the body is required, gores can be set in the sides or the front or both. This version will cause the shoulder seam to fall down over the upper arm. But this extra fabric can be pulled up through the arm openings. The fabric provides the “puff” seen in the portraits as the sleeves are opened up. Evolution of the Italian Camicia Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Page 4 Version 3 : High Body Gore Construction This version is a variation on the layout in version 2. Obtain the width between Pt’s E, add ease and s/a. This is the measurement of the front and back body panels. To add additional fabric to help accommodate the bust longer gores are set ifurther up along the side of the body. The sleeve then attaches to both the body and the gore. This variation, with the gore high up into the body shows up in the camcia’s again at the end of the 15th century. This can also be done to Version 1 to give a fuller garment. Version 4 : Bias Construction This version quite simple. It is a bias drape: the front on the 45 degree bias, the sides are on the straight of the grain. The length of the camicia will be limited by width of the fabric. Cut a small quarter circle for the neckline. Slowly trim away the neckline until desire depth is reached. Allow the fabric to fall to the sides; the sleeves will set in at the created shoulder line. Late 15th century Camicia ~ c 1470’s -1490’s Around the end of the 3rd quarter of the 15th century, there was a shift in fashion. It was a time of relative peace in Italy. The war between Venice and the Turks was ending. The power struggles between the ducal households ruling much of Italy had subsided. As society flourished so did conspicuous consumption. Fashion, of course became a public way to show status. The portraiture of this age reflected that role. These portraits represented a recording of dowry, proof of station, and symbol of possessions. It was during this time that the shift in the role of undergarments occurred. It was almost as if the loosening of society was reflected in the clothing. The men’s garments became shorter, tighter, the undergarments exposed. In the women, the gamurra began to open in the front exposing the camicia beneath it. The opulence of the outer garments now moved to that of the undergarment. There was now more fabric in the camicia as indicated by the fine pleats showing through the lacing of the gowns. The camicia became a fashion garment. Plate 10: Ghirlandaio ~ 1488 The structure of this garment is as much a mystery as the earlier versions. The conjectured patterns can be derived from glimpses of fabrics along necklines and sleeves. The shape that would arise from this garment is one that will carry through the next century with little variation. This garment would seem to be the transition from the ungathered versions of the 1450’s to the fully gathered versions seen in the next century. Evolution of the Italian Camicia Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Page 5 The neckline of the camicia from the prior decades was already somewhat loose and draped. To create the style shown in Plate 10, it would simply mean increasing the amount of fabric in the body of any of the previous layouts, gather the neckline and increase the amount of fabric in the sleeves (See Layout 4). This change would mean that little additional fabric would be needed to make the garment, yet it would provide enough fabric in the front for the gathers. Layout 4: 1480’s camicia One clue to the pattern of the camicia is see in the painting by Carpaccio done in 1496 (Plate 11). The garment is drawn on an angle, hinting of fullness, caused by either angling the fabric or gores. The sleeves on the garments appear to be of normal length. The long item at the end of the pole does not seem to be part of the first garment. It is the necklines that are of interest during this period. It is the primary area that is seen from beneath the clothing. In the portrait of Giovanna by Ghirlandaio the pleated Plate 11: Carpaccio ~ 1496 neckline of the camicia hangs from the top edge of the garment (Plate 10). This look can be recreated by pleating the fabric into a small band and turning it over like a facing. late 12: Ghirlandaio ~ 1485 In another portrait by Ghirlandaio, the top edge of the garment is showing. There is a tiny band of lace like edging on the neckline above the pleats. (Plate 12) Camicia 1500’s- 1560’s and beyond During the first 2 decades of the 16th century, the typical “high renaissance” version of the camicia was immortalized in the works of artists such as Titian and Raffello. The neckline and the sleeves are now part of the overall “look” of an outfit. As seen in a fresco by Sodoma, dating from about 1508, the camicia is a simple, low, rounded neckline with full sleeves (Plate 13). The same shape is seen a few years later in the Raffaello painting “La Donna Velata” done in 1516 (Plate 14). Plate 13: Sodoma~ Benedict A causally draped camicia in a painting by Paolo Veronese painted in the second half of the 16th century is one of the later versions of the rounded neckline (Plate 15). Over the next 50-80 years, this basic camicia would have seemingly infinite variations of Plate 14: La Donna Velata by Raffaello neck edges, sleeve treatment and embellishment. Nevertheless, the basic shape of the garment would stay consistent. Initially the garment could have be made by continuing to increase the neckline opening, gathering up the fabric, enlarging the sleeve and gathering that fabric into the side of the body as shown in Version 1. Plate 15: Veronese Camicia Evolution of the Italian Camicia Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Page 6 As more and more fabric would have been incorporated into the garment, there would have been more need to try to accommodate the fullness. A simple change to the way the sleeves were set in the body and a version consistent with the portrait images is created as in Version 2. This design accommodates multiple neckline and sleeve variations. The most common differences will be on the shape of the neckline: where is the opening placed and how high or how low is the neckline. The garment can also go from a rounded neckline to a square neckline depending on how far the seam is sewn between the body and the sleeve and where the underarm gussets are placed. Version 1 : Early 16th century shirt/camicia If the seam between point A and point B (see gusset placement) the neckline will become more squared the further the seam goes under the arm. A shorter seam, one that ends with point B higher up above the underarm will have a more rounded neckline. Gusset placement Version 2 : Early 16th century shirt/camicia An alternative to the layout shown in version 2 would keep the original orientation of the sleeves to the body and raise them to form a square neckline. Version 3 : Square necked construction Evolution of the Italian Camicia Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Page 7 Neckline and Sleeve Variations Plate 16: Tizian. La Belle. 1535-1536 Plate 19: Laura Pisani ~ Dossi 1525 Plate 17: Port. of a Woman ~ 1509 Plate 20: Pinturicchio ~ 1509 Plate 22: Veronese ~ Venetian Lady ~ 1570 Evolution of the Italian Camicia Plate 21: Plate 18: Cariani ~ 1516 Seduction Moretto. Young Woman. 1540 Plate 23 : Lotto ~ 1521 Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Page 8 Multi paneled Camicia This style of camicia first makes it’s appearance in the Portrait of Isabella d’Este by D’Vinci in 1500 (Plate 24). It is somewhat difficult to know if the pale stripes on the camicia are narrow panels of fabric or actual stripes in the cloth. Either way this fashion trend made its appearance throughout the next century. One of the most famous images of this camicia in the Italian region is that of a Plate 24 : Isabella d'Este ~1500 Courtesan bleaching her hair (Plate 25). Painted in 1598 by Vecellio it bears an amazing resemblance to an extant camicia from the late 16th century (Plate 26). Plate 25 : Vecellio 1598 When this garment was first being created, the panels would have accommodated narrower widths of fabric. By the end of the 16th century, the fabrics would have been wider and there would no longer be a need for multiple panels to create width. However, it would now provide a venue to show off lace and embroidery. The pattern and layout of the extant camicia is still based on rectangular construction. The sleeves are not gathered at the head of the arm. The shoulders are made with small panels of fabric. This design would give the illusion of a full garment with substantially less bulk in the body. Plate 26: 16th century extant camicia In this layout the number of panels used in the body of the garment is up to the maker. Point A represents the width of the neckline A narrow strip of fabric, the width needed would be that distance from Pt A to the shoulder seam, the length of this strip of fabric would be from Pt A up over the shoulder to the equivalent point in the back. Once assembled, the neckline is gathered to the desired size. The sleeves fit squarely into the side of the body and the gussets are fit under the arms as needed. Like with the other versions, where the gores are placed under the arm helps determine how round vs square the neckline will be. Evolution of the Italian Camicia Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Multi panel camicia layout Page 9 Another extant version of this garment, this one featuring embroidery instead of lace is in the collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (Plate27). The garment is consistent with the ones seen in the portraiture from the end of the 16th century: heavily embroidered sleeves, variations in necklines but still following the same general shape (Plate 28). The major difference between this garment and the ones shown above is the absence of the panels of fabric forming the shoulder portion of the garment. Instead, the sleeve portions are raised up above the top edge of the body portions and they are gathered into the neckline directly (Version 2). This is similar to the alternative layout in the camicia discussed earlier, with the addition of multiple panels of fabric forming the body portion of the garment. Plate 27 : Extant camicia Plate 28 : Micheli after 1550 Multi panel camicia Version 2 Late 16th century Camicia The pattern or design for the multi panel camicia is the foundation for other versions of the same garment. Plate 29 shows two extant 16th century camicia. Both these garments were created using a layout similar to the pattern above but using one panel of fabric instead of three This style shows a resemblance to an undergown painted by almost 100 years earlier in1477 by Derick Baegert. Plate 29 : 16th century camicia Plate 30 : 16th century camicia Evolution of the Italian Camicia The embellishment, embroidery and the sleeve shaping has changed but the basic pattern of the garment is consistent. Of particular note is the usage of the small panels to create the shoulders on the body of the gown. Lace as an embellishment continues to be an important element in the garment. Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Page 10 As the lines of the garment simplified the embellishments became more intricate. La Bella Nina (Plate 31) by Veronese shows elaborate lace edging on the camicia. As the 16th century ended, the clothing continued to take on a slimmer silhouette in many of the European cultures. The focus would still be on the lower cut necklines and the emphasis on embellishments. As fashion would need the fullness of the camicia less and Plate 31 : La Bella Nina less the lines of the camicia would come full circle back to straight lines and little gathering ( Plate 34 ). Plate 32: Bia ~ Bronzino A camicia such as the extant one dating from the 16th century would be an example of the type of undergarment that would fit under these closer fitting garments (Plate 35). Pattern for 16h century camicia th Plate 33: 16 century camicia A 17th century camicia features elaborate lace and pleating on the sleeves and a square neckline but the remainder of the garment bears a remarkable resemblance to the 15th century un-pleated versions. Plate 34 : 17th century camicia Pattern for 17th century camicia As with any fashion, they tend to go in cycles. What began as a simple undergarment, with straight lines evolved into an elaborate fashion layer and back again to a more functional undergarment. Evolution of the Italian Camicia Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Page 11 Plates 1. Carlson, Marc. St Louis Shirt. Personal Web Site, Accessesd June 2004. <http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/stlouis.htm> 2. Jacqerio, Follower of Giacomo.c 1411-1416. Fountain of Youth. Great Hall of the Castello di Manta., Camille, Michael. Medieval Art of Love, Harry N Abrams Inc, NY NY 1998. Pg 84. 3. Pollaiuolo, Antonio del. Portrait of a Young Lady. C 1470. Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500. Herald, Jacqueline. Humanities Press. 1981. 4. Fra Carnevale. Birth of a Virgin. 1467. Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York. Image taken by Author. 5. Verrocchio, Andrea del. Bust of a Lady. c1480's. Frick Museum. Accessed September 2004. <http://www.frick.org/html/sverrocd.htm> 6. Rossellino, Antonio. Portrait of a Lady. c1460-1470. Staatliche Museen, Berlin. Web Gallery of Art Accessed August 2003.< http://www.wga.hu/art/r/rosselin/antonio/woman.jpg> 7. Robbia, Luca della. Tondo Portrait of a Lady. c1465. Museo Nazionale del Bargello, Florence Web Gallery of Art Accessed October 2004<http://www.wga.hu/art/r/robbia/luca/tondo.jpg> 8. Cossa, Francesco del. Allegory of April. 1476-1484. Palazzo Schifanoia, Ferrara. Web Gallery of Art. Accessed July 2004. < http://www.wga.hu/art/c/cossa/schifano/2april/2april.jpg>. 9. Lippi, Fra Filippo. The Annunciation with two Kneeling Donors.c1440. Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica, Rome Web Gallery of Art. Accessed October 2004. <http://www.wga.hu/art/l/lippi/filippo/1440/01annun2.jpg> 10. Ghirlandaio, Domenico. Portrait of Giovanna Tornabuoni. 1488. Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection. Madrid. Image from Virtue and Beauty. Exhibit Catalog for National Gallery of Art. Washington. Princeton University Press 11. Carpaccio, Vittore. The Healing of the Madman. c1496. Gallerie dell’Accademia, Venice. Web Gallery of Art. Accessed January 2004.< http://www.wga.hu/art/c/carpacci/2/01mirac.jpg > 12. Ghirlandaio, Domenico. A Young Woman. 1485. Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York. Image taken by Author. 13. Sodoma. St Benedict Cycle. 1505-1508. Cloisters at Monte Oliveto. Maggiore, Siena. Festive Attyre Web Site. Accessed June 2004. <http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/florentine/flor17.html> 14. Sanzio, Raffaello. La Donna Velata. 1516. Galleria Palatina (Palazzo Pitti) Florence. Web Gallery of Art. Accessed January 2003. <http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/r/raphael/5roma/3/03velata.html> 15. Veronese, Paolo. Mars and Venus United by Love. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Photograph taken by author. 16. Tizian. La Belle. 1535-1536. Galleria Palatina, Palazzo Pitti, Florence. Bildarchiv zur Kunst und Architektur .Accessed October 2004. < http://www.bildindex.de > 17. Ghirlandaio, Ridolfo del. Portrait of a Woman. 1509. Palazzo Pitti. Florence. Festive Attyre Web Site. Accessed June 2004< http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/florentine/flor16.html > 18. Cariani, Giovanni Busi. Seduction 1515-1516. The Hermatige Museum. St Petersburg. Russia. Hermatige Museum Web Site. Accessed January 2005.< http://www.hermitagemuseum.org> Evolution of the Italian Camicia Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Page 12 19. Circle of Dosso Dossi, Laura Pisani. 1525. Getty Museum. Los Angeles, CA. Getty Museum Web Site. Accessed January 2005. < ttp://www.getty.edu/art/collections/objects/o776.html> 20. Pinturicchio. The Return of Odysseus. 1509. National Gallery, London. Web Gallery of Art. Accessed November 2004. < http://www.wga.hu/art/p/pinturic/odysseus.jpg > 21. Moretto. Portrait of a Young Woman. 1540. Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna. Festive Attyre Web Site. Accessed June 2004 <http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor25.html > 22. Veronese, Portrait of a Venetian Lady. 1570. Image from Rodolfo Pallucchini Veronese. Arnoldo Mondadori Ed. Milano 1984. 23. Lotto, Lorenzo. Christ Taking Leave of His Mother. 1521 Staatliche Museen, Berlin. Web Gallery of Art. Accessed July 2004.< http://www.wga.hu/art/l/lotto/1521-23/01leave1.jpg > 24. da Vinci, Leonardo. Isabella d'Este. 1500. Musee du Louvre, Paris. Web Gallery of Art. Accessed July 2004. < http://www.wga.hu/art/l/leonardo/08heads/07isabel.jpg > 25. Vecillio, Cesare. Altre donne di Venetia. Habiti 112v. 1598. Image from A Well-Fashioned Image : Clothing and Costuming in European Art, 1500-1850. Rodini, Elizabeth and Weaver, Elissa B, ed. The David and Alfred Smart Museum of Art. University of Chicago. 2002. 26. Original shirt with reticello. Civic Museum, Milan. 16th century. Ricci, Elisa. Old Italian Lace Volume 1. JB Lippincott and Co. Philadelphia, PA. 1908 th 27. Embroidered camicia. Late 16 century. Metropolatian Museum of Art. Photography by Beth McMahon, with many thanks. 28. Micheli, Parrasio. After 1550. The Lute-playing Venus with Cupid. Museum of Fine Arts. Budapest. Web Gallery of Art. Accessed July 2005. < http://www.wga.hu/art/m/micheli/luteplay.jpg > 29. Two original shirts with reticello insertions.16th century. Ciccolini, Macerata Ricci, Elisa. Old Italian Lace Volume 1. JB Lippincott and Co. Philadelphia, PA. 1908 30. Baegert, Derick. Veronica and Four Knights. 1477. Museo de Art Thyssen-Bornemisza. Early German Painting 1350-1550. Isolde Lübbeke. London 1991. Personal Web Site http://myra.hem.nu/costume/images/OSORTERAT/DerickBaegert.Cavalry.14771478(EGPvat25)-detail-hemd.jpg and Museum Web Site <http://www.museothyssen?.org/museovirtual/fichas/obraampliada.aspcodigo=384 > 31. Veronese. La Bella Nani. 1558. Louvre. Image from Rodolfo Pallucchini Veronese. Arnoldo Mondadori Ed. Milano 1984. 32. Bronzino. Bia. The Illegitimate Daughter of Cosimo I de'Medici. 1542. Galleria degli Uffizi. Florence. Web Gallery of Art. Accessed April 2005. < http://www.wga.hu/art/b/bronzino/1/bia.jpg > 33. 16th century shirt embroidered in curl stitch and drawn work. Binney, Florence Ricci, Elisa. Old Italian Lace Volume 1. JB Lippincott and Co. Philadelphia, PA. 1908 34. 17th century Shirt. Abruzzi, from the Chieti Exhibition, 1906. Ricci, Elisa. Old Italian Lace Volume 1. JB Lippincott and Co. Philadelphia, PA. 1908 Evolution of the Italian Camicia Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Page 13 Citations Frick, Carol Collier. Dressing Renaissance Florence. The John Hopkins University Press, Baltimore and London, 2002. Herald, Jaqueline. Renaissance Dress In Italy 1400-1500. HumanitiesPress 1981 References Brown, David Alan.ed. Virtue and Beauty. Exhibit Catalog for National Gallery of Art. Washington. Princeton University Press Camille, Michael. Medieval Art of Love, Harry N Abrams Inc, NY NY 1998 Crowfoot, Elisabeth. Pritchard, Frances. Staniland, Kay. Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450. Museum of London. The Boydell Press .1992 Jardine, Lisa. Worldly Goods: A New History of the Renaissance. WW Norton & Co. NY and London. Killerby, Catherine Kovesi. Sumputary Law in Italy 1200-1500. Oxford Historical Monographs. Clarendon Press. Oxford. 2002 Newton, Stella Mary. The Dress of the Venetians 1495-1525. Scolar Press. 1988 Ostergard, Else. Woven into the Earth. Aarhus University Press, Denmark Ricci, Elisa. Old Italian Lace Volume 1. JB Lippincott and Co. Philadelphia, PA. 1908 Rodini, Elizabeth and Weaver, Elissa B, ed. A Well-Fashioned Image : Clothing and Costuming in European Art, 1500-1850. The David and Alfred Smart Museum of Art. University of Chicago. 2002.0 Rodolfo Pallucchini Veronese. Arnoldo Mondadori Ed. Milano 1984. Evolution of the Italian Camicia Copyright 2003-2005 Lee Ann Posavad Page 14