www.cossma.com
Contents
10 I Dr. Volker Wendel
and Dr. Peter Hössel of
BASF explain the advantages of the new thickener
for skin and hair care
3
Editorial
K
NEWS
8
Markets + Profiles
K
FOCUS
Innovations
10
a Dr. Volker Wendel and Dr. Peter Hössel,
BASF:
Thickeners for sophisticated formulations
12
Nica Lewis, Mintel:
International Launches
K
14
MARKETING
a Market Survey:
Packaging
18
14 I Our market survey of packaging shows
at a glance who supplies
what packaging components or services
Market Survey:
Contact Details
20
Star of the Month:
Cosmetic footwarmer
K
22
PRODUCTION
a Dr. Petra Wirth, Alphachem:
Avoiding the pitfalls
24
Miriam Becker, Merck:
Feel, Fill and Function
28
a Nicole Häusler, Kolb:
Snow White and the seven green Emulsifiers
30
22 I Dr. Petra Wirth of
Alphachem explains some
points to note when carrying
out a safety assessment of
natural cosmetics
24 I Miriam Becker
of Merck outlines
the benefits of
functional fillers
New Ingredients
33
Packaging News
35
Supplier Check: Geka, Optima
K
SERVICES
6
Download List
38
Books
40
Events Diary
41
Formulations: Sprays & more
42
Suppliers’ Guide
47
International B2B Exchange
48
Company Index
48
Advertisers’ Index
49
Masthead Page
50
Preview
a Leading articles
Front cover picture: Eastman
www.cossma.com
Fine Feathers make Fine Birds –
First Class Packaging makes a Statement!
Dressed for Success. This motto also
applies to your product. Machines of
Kugler and PPS offer a unique range
of options for your creative packaging
dreams. A dazzling array of feasible
shapes and highly sophisticated dosing
units for cosmetics of all viscosities make
Kugler machines the safest investment.
Many of the machines are implemented as monoblock systems, supporting
a multitude of functions on a single machine frame. For decades, our innovative
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WLRQVăKDYHFRQYLQFHGWKHLQWHUQDWLRQDO
clientele of the fast-changing cosmetics
sector.
As a member of Optima Group, Kugler
stands for experience, synergies and
worldwide service.
KUGLER GmbH
Geschwister-Scholl-Strasse 89, 74523 Schwäbisch Hall
Germany, www.kugler-ger.com
Optima Group worldwide: U.S., Mexico, Brazil, France, Great Britain, Italy, Japan, Korea, China and Germany
KUGLER
PPS
SERVICE
DOWNLOADS
www.cossma.com
Free Downloads for Subscribers
www.cossma.com/download
Click through our Web TV clips:
www.cossma.com/tv
presents the company’s latest innovations
in the field of cosmetic packaging, including electronic components like light or
heating systems.
explains how she founded the brand and
outlines how she managed to reach a 50%
plus in sales with innovative products.
talks about some significant research
findings and the particular features
of the company’s R&D department.
a NEW!
PRODUCT INFORMATION
■ Product information:
Ingredients:
a SymRelief
SilCare® Silicone SEA
Aristoflex® AVC
Hostacerin SFO
SymHelios® 1031
MicroSilver BG
Preventhelia
EpiCalmin TCM
SEBUMOL LPC : Lauryl PCA
SEBUMOL SPC : Isostearyl PCA
SEBUMOL ODPC : Octyldodecyl
PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica
Hydrolite 5
Aqualance
Aquasense
Finished products:
Innovative products, selected by Mintel:
a Sumptuous Color Bold Volume Lifting Mascara
a Tinted Moisturiser for dark skin tones
a Hungarian Wild Carrot Revitalising Facial Oil
a Rinse-off Cleansing Gel
The Fab Pore 15-Minute Facial Peel
Énigmatique Geisha
Laneíge Water Sleeping Pack
Vegetables
Kaleidoscope Lip Kit
Emotional Aura Pact
Gloss Trio
The Pink Collection
Jelly Cheeks
Anti-ageing dermatological food supplement for men
Dual body care targeting cellulite
Aromatic hair treatment for an oily scalp
Outlast Lipstain
SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES AND STUDIES
a Cosmeceutical skin care products: Are they really efficient?
Scientific Version of article
Anti-Ageing: A multifunctional concept
Scientific version of article
High-performance emollients with sensory appeal
Chart: Skin Sensory Evaluation Pillow Talk
Silicones: Tailor-made all-rounders
Additional information on silicones
outlines the most important changes
and requirements contained in the new
Cosmetics Directive.
The ideal sun cream
Scientific Version with charts
More efficient cosmetics production:
Hot/cold saves time and energy
Chart: Process temperature and relative process time
REFERENCES:
talks about what are currently the most
important areas of research in hair care.
6
COSSMA 11 I 2009
a Cosmeceutical skin care products: Are they really efficient?
References, notes, add. charts
a Aloe vera: Evidence of active content
References
From physiology to the end product: Living on our skin
References
Background: Bacteria on our skin
Bacteria in cosmetics formulations: Not easy to kill
References on microbiology in personal care formulations
SUPPLIER LISTINGS
Service Providers international
Address listing
Natural Cosmetics:
Supplier listing ingredients and
packaging
Contract Services International
Address listing
Ingredient Providers International
Address listing
Packaging Providers International
Address listing
Download
Extra
The exclusive service for
our subscribers:
At www.cossma.com/download
you will find additional information
that you can download.
Your access codes for November:
User name: cossma11
Password: new
MARKET DATA AND STUDIES
■ by country
France: Market Cosmetics & Toiletries
Latin America:
Market Cosmetics & Toiletries
Germany: Personal Care Market
Geo cosmetics:
Detailed description of the study
Eastern Europe:
Market Data Cosmetic Market
Russia: Data on cosmetic market
Spain: Market shares by segments,
companies and brands
■ by segments
Finished Products:
Sun Care Market
Hair Care Market Data Worldwide
Facial Care Market World-Wide
(size, growth, brand ranking)
Color Cosmetics Market:
Brand Shares Ranking
Body Care: Market data by
segments and countries
Natural Cosmetics: Market data,
list of products recently launched
(international)
www.cossma.com
A trend has blossomed into a lifestyle
Feel the Green
Kolb‘s ingreendients stand for
฀
฀
฀
green
Giving natural well-being a face.
SERVICES BOOK SERVICE
www.cossma.com
Book Shop
Place your order today, and be sure to keep yourself fully up to date!
www.beauty-profi-shop.com
Phone +49 (0) 6123 9238-206
health-and-beauty.com@vertriebsunion.de
Current technical books – selected for you by the COSSMA editorial team. Further information on the items listed, as well as lots more
interesting titles, can be found in the beauty professional’s bookshop
at www.beauty-profi-shop.com. Order your personal copies today!
GfK report
Charles Sell
Fiedler
Shopper types for natural
cosmetics
Understanding
fragrance chemistry
Encyclopaedia of
Excipients
This extensive consumer type analysis
is based on the findw
ings of a GfK panel
Ne
with 25,000 participants.
Full report in
German, 96 pages:
€ 7,021. Full report in English: € 8,211.
Summary in German, 38 pages:
€ 2,975. Summary in English: € 4,165
Kai Bester
Personal Care Compounds
in the Environment
This book covers in
detail which toxic
chemicals are responsible for harming the environment.
244 pages, hard
bound, € 129.00
This book covers the
basics of organic
chemistry as applicable to the fragrance business.
417 pages, hard
bound, € 95.00
Johann W. Wiechers, PhD
Andreas Reinhart
Skin Delivery Systems
Cosmetics Law
In this handbook entitled “Science and
Application of Skin
Delivery Systems”
expert contributions
update the reader on
the latest findings in
this field.
511 pages, hard bound, € 230.00
ECV
The authors, Susanne Opalka and
Uschi Rollar, present
164 new perfumes
and reports taken
from “Haute Parfumerie” as well as
interviews with designers and perfumers.
184 pages, hard bound, € 29.90
Blue List
COSSMA 11I 2009
back, € 36.00
Silicones for
Personal Care
This reference work
for cosmetic ingredients, with CD-ROM,
lists 8,000 cosmetic
ingredients, including additives.
880 pages, with CDROM, € 168.00
Who and what
38
A German language
practical handbook,
“Cosmetics Law”
presents the current
legal position and
explains some recent court decisions.
190 pages, paper-
Anthony J. O’Lennick
Parfums Edition 2009
This German language reference
work for 2009 is on CD-ROM
and as a printed book, and
contains detailed information on all of the important players in the
cosmetics industry. With
the supplementary marketing CDROM all of the data can be exported.
316 pages, paperback, standard
version, € 166.00, marketing version
with data export function, € 1,050.18
This 2-volume encyclopaedia contains
more than 12,900
entries covering additives, as well as a
list of the manufacturers.
2 volumes, 1,600
pages, hard bound, € 350.00
Cheryl M. Burgess
Cosmetic Dermatology
This book explains
cosmetic treatments
carried out by dermatologists and how the
symptoms of skin ageing can be treated.
170 pages, 35 illustrations, 33 charts
and tables, € 96.25
In this publication
Anthony J. O’Lennick offers an introduction to the basic
chemistry of silicones and their
application in
cosmetics.
160 pages, paperback, € 149.90
Barbara B. Gilchrest,
Jean Krutmann
Skin Aging
This comprehensive
technical book contains numerous expert contributions
providing an extensive overview of current research into
skin ageing.
216 pages, 72 illustrations, 24 tables,
hard bound, € 106.95
There’s only one
place where you can
get PURETOL White
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from the world’s
largest producer.
www.cossma.com
TM
Petro-Canada produces PURETOL white mineral oils
from start to finish – from integrated feedstock processing
to certified white oils. We’re delivering PURETOL directly to our
customers through our dedicated infrastructure and efficient
distribution system. A full range of PURETOL white mineral oils is
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available to meet any of your requirements. So let us introduce
ourselves: We’re Petro-Canada, the global leader in white oil
production. At your service.
For more information on PURETOL call:
1-866-335-3369 or E-mail:
sales@petro-canada.ca
or visit: lubricants.petro-canada.ca/puretol
Purity You Can Count On
Allen Kunden und Lieferanten, die im Oktober
unseren Stand auf der SEPAWA besucht haben,
möchten wir sagen:
Schön, dass Sie da waren! Wir hoffen, dass
unsere Produkte und Zusatzleistungen
Ihnen positiv in Erinnerung geblieben
sind und freuen uns auf zukünftige
gemeinsame Erfolge!
Sie haben die SEPAWA verpasst?
Schreiben Sie uns!
Wir freuen uns darauf, gemeinsam
mit Ihnen optimale Formulierungslösungen für Ihre Produkte aus der
klassischen und Naturkosmetik, dem
Homecare und I&I Sektor zu entwickeln.
Kraemer & Martin GmbH
www.kum-online.de | care.chemicals@azelis.de
Big enough to do the job small enough to care
TM
Trademark of Petro-Canada
LUB 2184UK (09.03)
SERVICES EVENTS
www.cossma.com
Fairs, conferences and seminars
2009
When?
What?
Where?
Who?
07.–08.11.2009
BEAUTY FORUM Hair & Spa
Budapest,
Hungary
Health and Beauty Business Media Kft.
info@health-and-beauty.hu, www.beauty-fairs.hu
07.–09.11.2009
BEAUTY CONGRESS GREECE
Athens,
Greece
09.–10.11.2009
Seminar: Packaging Design
10.11.2009
Seminar: Naturkosmetik
in der Praxis
Workshop:
Kosmetik-GMP
Sustainable Cosmetics Summit
Berlin,
Germany
Frankfurt a.M.,
Germany
Windhagen,
Germany
Frankfurt,
Deutschland
Beauty Greece Tsirimokou
info@beautygreece.gr, www.health-and-beauty.com
www.beauty-forum.com
Deutsches Verpackungsinstitut
wohlatz@verpackung.org, www.verpackungsakademie.de
Cosmetic Campus
info@cosmetic-campus.de, www.cosmetic-campus.de
Cosmetic Campus
info@cosmetic-campus.de, www.cosmetic-campus.de
Organic Monitor
info@sustaina blecosmeticssummit.com
www.sustaina blecosmeticssummit.com
Cosmetic Campus
info@cosmetic-campus.de, www.cosmetic-campus.de
Step Exhibitions
scsformulate@stepex.com, www.scsformulate.co.uk
DGK e.V
ruth.wudeneh@dgk-ev.de, www.dgk-ev.de
Gesellschaft für Dermopharmazie
webmaster@gd-online.de, www.gd-online.de
Pro Carton
mcewen@procarton.com, www.procarton.com
SCC - Society of Cosmetic Chemists
scc@scconline.org, www.scconline.org
Beauty Greece Tsirimokou
info@beautygreece.gr
www.health-and-beauty.com, www.beauty-forum.com
11.11.2009
16.–17.11.2009
17.11.2009
18.–19.11.2009
Seminar: Lohnherstellungsverträge
gemäß Kosmetik-GMP
SCS Formulate
19.–20.11.2009
Workshop: Sonnenschutzmittel
20.11.2009
25.–26.11.2009
GD-Symposium: Messungen
an der Haut und am Haar
Pro Carton
10.–11.12.2009
Annual Scientific Meeting
12.–14.12.2009
BEAUTY FORUM MACEDONIA
Kleine Helfer bei sprühbaren Formulierungen:
Avicel®-Produkte
Frankfurt a.M.,
Germany
Coventry,
Great Britain
Witten,
Germany
Berlin,
Germany
Düsseldorf,
Germany
New York,
USA
Thessaloniki,
Greece
Download now:
Market Survey Process Technology,
Laboratory Equipment,
Packaging Technology
www.cossma.com/process
Download
Extra
www.cossma.com
The exclusive service for
our subscribers:
At www.cossma.com/download
you will find additional information
that you can download.
Your access codes for November:
User name: cossma11
Password: new
Sprays
& more
This month we bring you 24 formulations for spray products and foams submitted by 20 ingredients suppliers. If any of these formulations looks particularly interesting for you they can be downloaded from the COSSMA web site in
this month’s download area. Just go to www.cossma.com/download and log
in using this month’s access codes that you will find on this page. This is of
course a free-of-charge service for our subscribers.
I
nteresting hair styling ideas have been submitted by, for instance, BASF with the
Wet Look Gel Spray, by Croda with their Stylishly Strawberry Mousse and their Layers for Layers Aqua Spritz, and by ISP with the 6% VOC Voluminizing Mousse. For
those seeking sun protection products for sporty types the Orga Mineral Sun Spray
SPF 50 & Water Resistant submitted by Seppic, the SPF 30 Very Water Resistant Sport
Spray from Inolex and the Sports Protective Sun Spray from Croda should be of interest. And a sprayable anti-cellulite treatment has been put forward by Symrise in the
form of their Anti Cellulite Gel with Biotive Esculin.
EasyFoil line
Easy filling multilayer aluminum foil
The advantages
of aluminum foil combined
with the performances of
Lablabo airless pouch dispensers
A perfect barrier,
especially against
oxygen and UV
In December we will be turning our attention to the subject of formulations for lotions, creams and exfoliants. in January next
year it will be time once again to look at sun care formulations. All of the information published here has been carefully assembled,
however neither the publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept responsibility for their safety or accuracy.
Croda Chemicals Europe Ltd.
Contact: Corwick Hall, Snaith
Goole DN14 9AA; Großbritannien
www.croda.com/europe/pc
pc-europe@croda.com
Profile: Croda is one of the world’s leading suppliers of speciality raw materials, combining functionality with a natural positioning to provide winning ingredients
for the personal care industry. With a
wide and diverse product range, Croda
offers innovation supported by proven
efficacy testing across all personal
care market sectors.
Formulas: – Sports Protective Sun Spray
– Beat The Elements Hair Mist
– Natural Root Boosting Spray
– Stylishly Strawberry Mousse
– Layers For Layers Aqua Spritz
Styling Active Gel with Amigel®
Alban Muller
Tonic Milk with Bamboo and Amiporine
Alban Muller
Wet Look Gel Spray
BASF
Hair Styling Formulation
Bayer Material Science
Cleansing Mousse
CLR
Foaming Kiwi Facial Cleanser
with Jojoba Aqua So
Desert Whale
Body Velvet Caress Sprayable Lotion
Dow Corning
Smoothing Body Foam
Gova
Broad Spectrum SPF 25
Sun Screen Spray
HallStar
SPF 30* Very Water Resistant,
Sport Spray
Inolex
฀฀
฀฀
฀฀
฀ ฀
฀
฀
฀
฀ ฀
฀
฀
฀
฀
฀
฀
฀ ฀
฀ ฀ ฀
฀
฀
฀
฀
฀
฀
฀
฀
฀
6% VOC Volumizing Mousse
ISP
Mild Hand-Face Mousse
Lamberti Spa
A Garden in Tanger
Laserson
Spray On Liquid Sunscreen
Natunola
Cleansing Aloe Foam
Rahn AG
Orga Mineral Sun Spray
SPF 50 & Water Resistant
Seppic
Natural wipe – spray emulsion
(cold production)
Sisterna
Sprayable Anti Cellulite Gel
with Biotive® Esculin
Symrise
Velvet Mousse
Zschimmer & Schwarz
www.lablabo.com
Advertisers’
Index
A. & E. Connock Perfumery + Cosmetics Ltd.
www.connock.co.uk
p. 52
Rexam Airspray International B.V.
www.rexamairspray.com
p. 25
Asahi Kasei Fibers Deutschland GmbH
www.asahi-kasei.co.jp
p. 19
BASF SE
www.personal-care.basf.com
p. 9
S. Black GmbH
www.sblack.com
p. 40
Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH
www.courage-khazaka.de
p. 8
CPL Group Ltd.
www.cplaromas.com
p. 13
Cremer Oleo GmbH & Co.KG
www.cremer-care.de
p. 33
Croda Chemicals Ltd.
www.croda.com
p. 19
DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.
www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com
p. 21
ESPERA-WERKE GmbH
www.espera.com
p. 31
GEKA BRUSH GmbH
www.geka-brush.com
p. 36
Kolb Distribution Ltd.
www.kolb.ch
p. 7
Kraeber GmbH & Co
www.kraeber.de
p. 34
Kraemer & Martin GmbH
www.kum-online.de
p. 39
Kugler GmbH
www.kugler-ger.com
pp. 5, 37
Kyowa Hakko Europe GmbH
www.kyowa.eu/daiichi
p. 26
Lablabo
www.lablabo.com
p. 41
Sigmund Lindner GmbH
www.sigmund-lindner.com
p. 12
Lutz GmbH & Co.KG
www.lutz-packaging.de
p. 20
Mani GmbH
www.mani-gmbh.com
S. 40
Merck KG aA
www.merck4cosmetics.com
p. 35
Mibelle AG
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
p. 2
Oriex Events
www.pcd-congress.com
p. 29
Pago Ettiketiersysteme GmbH
www.pago.com
p. 11
Petro-Canada America Puretol
Lubricants.petro-canada.ca/puretol
p. 39
Reed Exhibitions Ltd.
www.in-cosmetics.com
p. 32
Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH
www.ROVIcosmetics.com
p. 30
Symex GmbH & Co.KG
www.symex.de
p.8
Trichema AG
www.trichema.ch
p. 23
48
COSSMA 11 I 2009
www.cossma.com
Company
Index
Aerobal
www.aerobal.org
Air Products
www.airproducts.de
AkzoNobel
www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
Alban Muller
www.albanmuller.com
Alcan
www.alcanpackaging.com
Alphachem
www.alphachem.com
Angus
www.dow.com/angus
Aveda Institute
www.aveda.com
Avon Products
www.avon.com
BASF
www.basf.com
Bayer Material Science
www.bayercosmetics.com
Beiersdorf
www.beiersdorf.com
Bell Flavors & Fragrances
www.bell-europe.com
Bourjois
www.bourjois.com
Boxal
www.boxal.com
C+N Packaging
www.cnpkg.com
CCL Label
www.ccllabel.com
CLR
www.clr-berlin.de
CPL Aromas
www.cplaromas.com
Croda
www.croda.com
Desert Whale
www.desertwhale.com
p. 33
p. 8
p. 30
p. 41
p. 3, 33
p. 22
p. 8
p. 8
p. 8
pp. 10, 30, 41
p. 41
p. 20
p. 8
p. 33
p. 33
p. 8
p. 33
p. 41
p. 8
p. 41
p. 41
Dieter Bakic
www.bakic.com
Dow Corning
www.dowcorning.com
Drom
www.drom.com
DVI
www.verpackung.org
Estée Lauder
www.esteelauder.com
Evonik
www.evonik.com/personal-care
Exal North America
www.exal.com
Fachpack
www.fachpack.de
Fareva
www.fareva.com
Geka Brush
www.geka-brush.com
GfK
www.gfk.com
Gova
www.gova-benelux.com
HallStar
www.hallstar.com
Impag
www.impag.de
Inolex
www.inolex.com
Interpolymer
www.interpolymer.de
ISP
www.ispcorp.com
Jennewein Biotechnologie
www.jennewein-biotech.de
Kao Chemicals
www.kaochemicals.de
Kolb
www.kolb.ch
Kugler
www.optima-group.de
p. 33
p. 41
p. 8
p. 33
p. 8
p. 30
p. 33
p. 33
p. 33
p. 36
p. 3
p. 41
p. 41
p. 30
pp. 30, 41
p. 30
p. 41
p. 30
p. 8
pp. 8, 32
p. 37
Lamberti Spa
www.lamberti.com
Laserson
www.laserson.com
Merck
www.merck4cosmetics.com
Mibelle Biochemistry
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
Natunola
www.natunola.com
Nivea
www.nivea.com
Oriex
www.oriex.fr
Pago
www.pago.ch
PCD-Konferenz
www.pcd-congress.com
Purcell Jojoba
www.purcelljojoba.com
Rahn
www.rahn-group.com
Rako Etiketten
www.rako-etiketten.com
Rohm and Haas
www.rhpersonalcare.com
Seppic
www.seppic.com
SHB
www.shb-gmbh.com
Sisterna
www.sisterna.com
Symrise
www.symrise.com
Takasago
www.takasago.com
Zschimmer & Schwarz
www.zschimmer-schwarz.com
p. 41
p. 41
p. 24
p. 30
p. 41
p. 33
p. 8
p. 33
p. 8
p. 8
p. 41
p. 33
p. 8
p. 41
p. 33
p. 41
pp. 8, 41
p. 8
p. 41
www.cossma.com
The
Team
Masthead
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Volume 10 ISSN 1439-7676
Managing Director
Jürgen Volpp
Published by Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH
Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp
Director Sales Cosmetics: Tobias Klumpp
Phone: +49 721 165-138
E-mail: tobias.klumpp@health-and-beauty.com
Address Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, COSSMA
P.O. Box 1446, 76003 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-0, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Editorial Staff Legally responsible party: Max Barth
Senior Editor: Angelika Meiss
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E-mail: angelika.meiss@health-and-beauty.com
Director Sales Cosmetics
Tobias Klumpp
+49 721 165-138
Advisory Board François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel,
Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt,
Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes,
Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern
Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis
Phone: +49 721 165-144
E-mail: dorothea.michaelis@health-and-beauty.com
Advertising Services: Andrea Bolz
Phone: +49 721 165-210, Fax: +49 721 165-148
The current list of advertising rates is dated
1st of Jan. 2009.
Senior Editor
Angelika Meiss
+49 721 165-169
Advertising sales
Dorothea Michaelis
+49 721 165-144
Circulation Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH
Service Klaus Schuler
Phone: +49 721 165-131, Fax: +49 721 165-148
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www.cossma.com/subscription
E 51 2 8 0
www.cossma.com
COSMETICS
S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y
MARKETING
Ingredients
New thickener for
skin and hair products
Product development
Snow White – and the
green emulsifiers
Packaging
Newly updated:
the packaging market
survey
VIP of the Month
Dr. Petra Wirth of
Alphachem talks about
the safety assessment
of natural cosmetics
products
Focus: Innovation
11 / 2 0 0 9
www.cossma.com