Highlands of Mexico
A Hundred Million Monarchs
A Greentours Tour Report
6
th
st
– 21 February 2014
Led by Ian Green & Eric Miranda
Day 1
February 5
th
to Mexico City
Everyone arrived as planned into Mexico City Airport and were soon whisked to the nearby Grand
Prix Hotel where we all met up for dinner and a discussion about the ‘morrow!
Day 2
th
February 6
Laguna Maria
We left the comforts of the Grand Prix at the allotted five o'clock, and just minutes later arrived
into Terminal 2 at Mexico City Airport. We were soon checked in and through security and on our
turboprop, a little eighty-seater affair that meant most of us had window views. Popacatapetl
loomed snow-clad above the city but we soon turned our back on it and headed west. Volcan
Toluca stretching 17000 feet into the sky above the city of the same name made a spectacular sight.
Valle de Bravo lake appeared and then we were up and over the forested Sierras that held the
wintering monarchs, then we went right over the top of Tancitaro, a 13,000 foot now extinct
volcano. The tops of El Fuego and Nevado de Colima were beautifully lit on the other side of the
other aircraft.
It was like a breath of fresh air, stepping out onto the tarmac at Colima's small, friendly, and dare
we say it, rather beautiful little airport. We met Ivan who was to drive for us for the trip and
packed our bags into the 15-seater van. As Ivan did this we watched Cassin's Kingbirds and a
Meadowlark whilst a Gray Hawk perched on the perimeter fence allowing us a great chance to
photograph this handsome raptor.
El Fuego loomed above us as we drove steadily uphill along quiet lanes and through small
colourful villages, everywhere seemed covered in a riotous assemblage of vegetation, though being
'winter' here (20°C!) it was the dry season and the grasses looked brown. Nevertheless there were
plenty of blooms along the roadside as we went, Leonotis, various Convolvulaceae, and Lopezias. One
could easily have spent all day stopping along this road but we needed to get to the Laguna and so
an hour's drive from the airport later we pulled into the little cobbled lane that runs up to the
Laguna Maria. The volcano now appeared very close and the surrounding habitats looked very
exciting. We settled into Laguna Maria's new rooms. Below us lay a green lagoon, and a nearer
water tank, set in a volcanic vent and surrounded on three sides by crumbling volcanic ash cliffs
covered in a rich forest. The rooms were exceedingly spacious, made all the more so by the almost
complete lack of furniture! Only two large beds in each and a small table – and acres of floor space!
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We took a late morning stroll down to the laguna, just three hundred metres away. We looked at
Asclepias curassavica the Monarch butterfly’s food plant and watched Crescents (like little
fritillaries) settling in the grass. Barred Yellows fluttered close to the ground. Two Black Hawks
and two Red-tailed Hawks flew overhead, the Black Hawks calling loudly and seemingly trying to
chase the Red-tails away. Fabulous Vermilion Flycatchers were very conspicuous, the males like
red flaming balls as they fluttered into the sky in their display flight. It was soon apparent that the
place was heaving with all manner of wildlife whether it as the ring-tailed Tropical Ground
Squirrels that chirruped from the top of boulders or the rich array of invertebrates visible on the
trackside flowers. There were plenty of flycatchers around to snap up these little morsels.
Cordilleran or Pacific-Slope Flycatchers and Western Wood-Pewees sallied forth from low
branches, and from higher up the larger insects were snapped up by groups of Social Flycatchers
or the positively forbidding Thick-billed Kingbird. Brilliant green and black striped Zebra
Heliconids flew up and down the track, the similarly long-winged but contrastingly brilliant
orange Julia doing the same. It was clear that it was going to wonderful here for butterflies, the
weather gorgeous with a clear blue sky and temperatures pleasantly warm in the low 20°C by
midday. We found several special butterflies down by the lagoon-side picnic area including a
Splendid Mapwing that Nigel found sipping salts on the shore, the incredibly intricate wing
pattern both hiding it and when seen making us gasp with amazement. This individual was so
enamoured of its salt-sipping that allowed lenses to within millimetres. Also here were various
Crescents and the striking Confusing Sister. Above, the huge fig trees were laden with impressive
Bromeliads, these Tillandsia prodigiosa, and lined with ferns and orchids, the latter mostly not in
flower though we were able to get a look at the little purple-flowered Maxillaria variabilis. The ash
walls of the little volcanic vent that the lagoon sits in are cliff-like by the track at one point and here
we saw some orange and yellow Lobelia laxiflora in flower alongside the tubular red flowers of a
Loeselia species, both hummingbird pollinated flowers. Golden-cheeked Woodpecker, Blue-headed
Vireo, Golden Vireo, Nashville Warblers, Warbling Vireos and a Blue Mockingbird were all seen in
the greenery whilst on the lake we watched Osprey and Pied-billed Grebe before returning for
lunch up at the restaurant.
Post lunch wanderings saw Nigel photographing the lovely White-spotted Eighty-eight as well as
a male Elegant Trogon whilst I was photographing clearings along a shadey stream. There were
two species present, the Thick-tipped Greta and Brown-rimmed Clearwing.
In the afternoon we went up to a barranca about 4km above the Laguna Maria. We walked along a
track that took us through light open West Mexican Thorn Scrub the well-spaced trees being
mostly acacias and the ground a mix of grass and herbs. The herbs included much Loeselia and this
was attracting many hummingbirds, with Broad-billed, Broad-tailed and Rufous/Allen's seen. Very
fine was a little Black-capped Vireo. The acacias though only twice as tall as a person were thickly
covered in lichens and looked old. They also had a good number of bromeliads, mostly Tillandsia
juncea, and a few orchids in flower, these Oncidium hyalinobulbon with wonderful sprays of tiny
yellow blooms. We descended into the barranca, whose gravelly bottom lay ten metres down into
the ravine. Water descends here rarely so mostly it is dry and a wonderful spot to look at what
animals come this way. I must remember to put the trap camera here next time! We soon found
Puma tracks and these were visible most of the way we walked. There were also prints of skunk
and raccoon type animals, and lots of droppings of these placed on boulders in the middle of the
barranca. A set of small cat prints were noted and also Coyote or Gray Fox. Hummingbirds were
going to roost down in the barranca amongst yellow flowered Galphimias, purple Wigandia urens
and white Tibouchia species. We found a superb wasps nest on the canyon wall and a spot where
something had been catching butterflies, the remains of a White Morpho amongst them. Returning
to the top of the barranca a flock of Smokey-brown Woodpeckers appeared and a Brown-backed
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Solitaire sat singing on a bough. As we walked back to the van the sun set in a blaze of orange over
the Sierra de Manantlan to the west, El Fuego standing proud and tall above us briefly lit orange
before turning purple as dusk descended.
My night excursion took me back down to the lagoon. Within a minute of leaving the rooms a
Hooded Skunk was spotted in the field next to the track. This is an impressive skunk and this
individual was almost entirely black with the only white visible being a thin side-stripe down the
tail. As I watched it a Gray Fox suddenly trotted into the field, the skunk seeing the fox fluffed
itself and raised its tail threateningly at the fox who trotted by unconcerned, ignoring the skunk
completely. Turning I could see more eyeshine – a distant nightjar. Down by the lagoon I came
across a large party of White-nosed Coatis feeding voraciously on the coffee beans as Mottled
Owls hooted in the large figs above.
Day 3
forest & Playa
February 7
th
The Pacific Coast -Los Asmoles dry
Mescala
Pre-breakfast we met up at the entrance gate at 7.20 though even this apparently relaxed start was
really a little early for the birds. The sun was not yet lighting the landscape though the day had
already dawned clear and sunny and warm. The cone of El Fuego looked magnificent and at seven
forty-five we were treated to a spectacular eruption as first there was a deep rumbling and plumes
of ash marked the progress of huge boulders as they crashed down the steep volcano-side. Then
ash billowed out of the volcano's top, soon rising to quite a cloud, and we discussed which cartoon
character it reminded us of most, the little gap where we could see blue sky beyond being the eye!
The birdlife along this stretch of road in the morning is phenomenal. Today's brief tryst with it
started with the commoner species, so we were soon learning to tell Cassin's Kingbird and Thickbilled Kingbirds apart. There were Social Flycatchers as well as Kiskadees. As soon as the sun hit
the tree tops we were in for non-stop action. First up were a bunch of Stripe-headed Sparrows.
Warblers included Nashville, Orange-crowned and Yellow-rumped and a leader only
MacGillivray's which disappeared rather too quickly. We saw Hooded and Bullock's Orioles,
Black-headed Grosbeaks, Eastern Bluebirds, the gorgeous Vermilion Flycatcher, purple-hued male
Varied Bunting, and a little flock of Lesser Goldfinches posed by the trackside. Great views of a
West Mexican Chachalaca as its brethren called loudly from three directions.
After breakfast we drove down the slopes to Colima and on to the main road to the coast. This
soon took us into an interesting area of coastal thorn forest. We stopped and walked along a
canyon. The canyon was very good for butterflies. We started seeing Blackened Bluewings, a
beautiful nymphalid whose uppersides, in the male, are shot with rays of electric purple-blue,
whilst the female has bands of paler blue. These were quite common. There was also just one or
two Pale-spotted Leafwings. Malachites were the big thing today. We saw maybe twenty or more
of these spectacular big lime-green and black butterflies and several of them stopped and posed
well for the cameras. The lovely red going over to green blooms of Combretum farinosum attracted
Pierids such as Apricot, Yellow-Angled and Cloudless Sulphurs, Great Southern Whites and Lyside
Sulphur as well as a few Zebra Heliconids. A goodly number of the black and red swallowtail
Variable Cattleheart were also attracted to the blooms. Other butterflies included the bright orange
Julia Heliconians and Silver Emperor, the tiny Elf, and the White Peacock. Speaking of white, there
was no mistaking the fantastic huge flappy White Morphos that sailed past regularly. There were
plenty of skippers including Zilpa Longtail, though most of these were moving too fast for us to
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get a look at let alone a camera on. Birds were in fact few and far between, none of the hoped for
White-throated Magpie-Jays. We did see Ash—throated Flycatcher though and a female blue
Bunting.
Then it was off to the Pacific, pausing for a much needed ice-cream for it was by now very warm.
We arrived at Boca de Apiza, the mouth of the river that marks the border between Colima and
Michoacan. We drove in, traversed a large area of mangroves and found ourselves stymied by the
old road road being damaged. We tried the track that went directly to the shore and found that
was as far as we could get so we decided to have lunch here anyway. It was a nice spot, Brown
Pelicans flew along the shore and the mangroves held such delights as the Mangrove Buckeye,
Spotted Sandpiper, and American Crocodile.
After lunch we decided to find the mouth of the river on the Michoacan side of the border. This
proved a great spot. We asked a family if we could watch birds from their property and there were
indeed large numbers of waterbirds there and then they offered us a boat ride in one of their
fishing boats. This was marvellous. There was abundant birdlife – and this was very close to us. A
group of Brown Pelicans loitered on a tree, further upriver were American White Pelicans too. On
sandbars we enjoyed close up views of Neotropic Cormorants and a number of White Ibises. There
was a great mixed flock of Franklin's Gulls, Royal and Elegant Terns, and various waders such as
Short-billed Dowitcher, Least Sandpipers and just a few Semipalmated Plovers. Ducks included
many Blue-winged Teal as well as a few Shoveler. There were great views to be had of herons and
egrets. There were lots of Snowy Egrets and Little Blue Herons, and some photogenic Tricolored
Herons, whilst Little Green Heron were in the fringing riverside vegetation. There were also Great
White Egrets, a few lively Reddish Egrets, and a Great Blue Heron. Willets, Greater Yellowlegs and
Lesser Yellowlegs patrolled the muddy fringes. We had great views of Green Kingfisher, our
boatmen being particularly adept at spotting them, and also a Belted Kingfisher too. As we
returned rather overwhelmed by the numbers and variety of wetland birds the numbers of
Magnificent Frigatebirds overhead seemed to increase by the minute.
It was almost five when we reached Playa Mezcala a few kilometres along the coast. Recently a
birdwatching tower and a walkway had been built into the marshes by the coastal lagoon here so
we spent half an hour on this. Shining Cowbirds perched in a tight line along the walkway.
Underneath a Bare-faced Tiger-Bittern was spotted and we had great views of this bird, another
later flying by. On the lily pads were plenty of Common Gallinules and Northern Jacanas. Several
Purple Gallinules were seen too and a Sora Rail. A Snail Kite overflew the marsh. In the distance
we watched a Crocodile make steady progress across the lagoon. A superb Ringer Kingfisher
perched atop a pole by the centre.
This is one of a number of beaches in this area that have significant populations of turtles nesting.
We met up with Pablo who looks after the turtles on this beach for much of the year. He's paid by
the Mexican Government to do this though the wages aren't great! He said that numbers of both
Green Turtles and Pacific Ridleys were pretty goodthis year, though predation from local people
after the eggs was still high. Leatherbacks sometimes nest on these beaches too.
We walked along to Pablo's ex-house (it had been damaged in a winter storm) where his hatchery
still lay. He moves the eggs there when he finds females laying so that locals can't rob the nests. He
is very careful to ensure that the actual nest conditions are faithfully replicated. As the sun lowered
in the sky offshore we watched Royal Terns fly by. Beach-combing proved productive with many
nice finds including some large bright pink shells. At the hatchery Pablo confirmed that a nest was
about to hatch and with a little help from Pablo the hatchlings started to reach the surface, soon he
was helping them out by the hand full. They rested awhile once out, but then one by one they
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started to make their way to the shore. In fact it was one all out on its own that made quick
headway. A little to Pablo's surprise a nest that was due to hatch the next day also came out and so
we had two nests full of baby turtles, about 160 of them in all. Around twenty or so were soon on
the go and we followed them down to the sea marvelling at their ability to get through all the
vagaries of beach sand, a vehicle track here, a human foot print there, but they seemed capable of
crossing any terrain and certainly knew the way to the sea. It was magical watching them reach the
water for the first time, the waves not-so-gently washing over them and dragging them to their
new home in the sea. Fantastic!
A group of four gulls came and watched proceedings, two California Gulls and two Herring Gulls.
They soon gave up and left. This is one of the bonuses of having a crowd of human carers as the
little turtlings go to the sea, less predation! The first hatchlings had entered the sea as the sun set
and we watched a number more enter the waves before heading off, Pablo remaining a few
minutes to make sure the last ones got in safely. Then we all headed back up the beach for
Christina's baked fish dinner served by coconut-palm firelight on the beach – a great evening, only
slightly marred by the long drive back to Laguna Maria in the dark.
Day 4
February 8
th
El Fuego
Several of us met up at twenty to eight for a bird walk down the main road. Birds were already
active and we saw a stream of lovely species as the volcano continued to chunter with little
eruptions behind us. There were as usual so many birds down here. Golden-cheeked and Ladderbacked Woodpeckers were seen, hummingbirds included Berylline, Amethyst-throated and Broadtailed, the latter feeding in the Stachys coccinea flowers that lined the little runnel by the track.
Groups of Stripe-headed Sparrows chorused as we went by, seed-eating birds also included Blue
Grosbeaks, Indigo Buntings and the lovely purple and pink-hued Varied Bunting. A Bewick’s Wren
disappeared quickly, the striking Spotted Wren just sat in the open for us. Ground Squirrels were
frequently spotted and we could hear the Chachalacas all the time.
After breakfast we headed uphill to Yerbabuena and then to the herb farm where we picked up
Victor who would guide us on our walk through the higher forests this morning. Yerbabuena was
mostly abandoned in a particularly active phase a few years ago but there are still many families
there. The 13,488 cinder cone of the volcano rose in front of us as we drove uphill passing grey
Collie's Squirrels and Zebra Heliconians as we went. We parked up at the edge of the avocado
plantings and headed off along a nice cobbled track. The trees were fantastic covered in mosses,
ferns, bromeliads and orchids. The latter included a few flowering Oncidium hyalinobulbon and
Maxillaria variabilis, but it wasn't until near the end of the walk that we encountered the larger
yellow Oncidium cavendishianum, with sprays of flowers over a foot long. Butterflies were
immediately apparent with the Variable Cattleheart practically the first butterfly we saw. This
species has uppersides with rows of pink spots on a black background, the pink shimmering
purple depending on the angle of the light. Further up we encountered the first of many
Surprising Whites, a species well-named for its surprising that it is a 'White', being all black with a
red blaze and a less obvious blue strip too. There were various sulphurs including a fine Yellowangled Sulphur, and we saw some nice skippers including the black and white patterned Rita's
Remilla. There were a few blues too, the Stubby Gemmed-Satyr, and a couple of metalmarks
including the Fatal Metalmark and the Falcate Metalmark. Perhaps the most striking butterfly was
the red, black and yellow Mexican Heliconian. White-throated Thrushes were common in the
shaded gullies where we also encountered some very pretty birds like Rufous-capped Brushfinch
and Golden-browed Warblers. A little flock of mixed Indigo, Varied and Lazuli Buntings moved
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through the undergrowth. Gorgeous Slate-throated Redstarts were a frequent sight and once or
twice we saw Painted Redstarts too. Less easy for people to get a look at were the many
Townsend's Warblers that inhabited the oaks. A family party of White-striped Woodcreepers
flashed rufous as they flew between trees, and the Mountain Trogon that flashed more brilliant
colours didn't stay long enough for many to get a look at. Hepatic Tanager, Blue Mockingbird,
White-eared Hummingbird, Red-tailed Hawk and a Peregrine were among the other birds noted.
As we came out of the forest there were some fine spires of yellow Galphimia glauca and plenty of
the paintbrush Castilleja arvensis. Eric sat under a tree preparing our picnic, which included some
freshly cooked chorizo and cheese and onion filled tacos, absolutely delicious after our walk!
Acorn Woodpeckers and various flycatchers were in the trees around us as we ate.
We headed down from the volcano, stopping at the organic coffee farm to make some purchases.
There was still plenty of afternoon left so some of us headed up a little stream valley close to
Laguna Maria in search of see-through butterflies! We soon started to find them, fluttering
delicately in the shady vegetation by the stream. This was the Thick-tipped Greta, the thick tip
being the only part of the wing except the borders, that is actually coloured. We photographed
these for a while and then continued, soon finding one that was perched in a sunbeam that lit a
brilliant orange Tithonia flower. This was a stunning picture and the butterfly was so happy there
he allowed lenses to within millimetres – fabulous! Nigel found a number of Mexican Heliconians
that seemed to disappear before our very eyes as they went to roost on a dead hanging leaf!
Back at the Laguna Maria I got the big box of (mostly) flower books out so that all could have a
look at them as the sun waned over the Laguna's lovely grounds. Popping down to put the trap
camera out I chanced upon a couple of Collared Peccaries just a hundred metres from our rooms!
Day 5
February 9
th
Nevado de Colima & Zapotlán el Grande
After an excellent breakfast of egg and bacon, freshly squeezed orange juice, and bread, yoghurt,
granola and fresh papaya or melon, we packed up the van and settled ourselves in for the journey
round the volcano.
We left pretty much on schedule not long after nine and waved goodbye to the nice people at
Laguna Maria - it is a lovely place so full of wildlife. As we rounded a corner El Fuego again rose
dramatically in front of us and as if to say goodbye started to throw up yet another spume of ash.
Great clouds of ash rose from the volcano's slopes as large rocks bounced down the steep sides. We
stopped to take yet more photographs. Our next stop was down in the canyon that runs down the
tectonic rift from Zapotlán. The cuota runs through a spectacular landscape here, cutting through
the volcanic rock before emerging into the air on great bridges on the other side. We stopped
where a quarry track went down to the canyon bottom. Unfortunately the gate across the road was
locked however we were still able to get a decent look at the Buttercup Trees (Cochlospernum
vitifolium) along the side of the track made it worth it. These had many glorious buttercup yellow
blooms set against the bare and leafless branches made for striking effect. Next to the road a
Pseudobombax ellipticum had sprays of white pompom flowers. Nigel found a much more accessible
Buttercup Tree a little along the road allowing us to photograph the flowers up close, the blooms
fully 6cm across and a rich deep yellow. A Plain Longtail Skipper was below it.
Onwards we arrived at Zapotlán el Grande (Ciudad Guzman not now used as Guzman, one of the
cruellest of the conquistadores, is now distinctly un-PC) and stopped for banyos and a snack or
two before heading across the flat valley floor to the foot of the Nevado de Colima. We reached the
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pine-oak zone before stopping. We pottered about find four species of Salvia including the shining
red elegans, the pink-furry curviflora and the little blue longispicata. In just a short stretch of road
one could find five or more species of oak, here Quercus laurina and Quercus rugosa were very
common. The pale undersides of the leaves of Quercus candicans were a frequent sight and there
was a lot of large—leaved Quercus magnolifolia as well as the more mundane looking Quercus
obtusata. A Cuphea had twinned orange flowers. There were shrubs of the large showy Rumfordia
floribunda and smaller yellow Asteraceae including Senecio stoechadiformis among others. Mexican
Dartwhites perched on the Rumfordia leaves chasing each other hither and thither and shining
orange Mexican Silverspots ranged along the track. A swallowtail or two sped past whilst a sunny
and slightly damp spot on the first corner yielded Brown-spotted Greenstreak, Broken-M
Hairstreak and Orange-crescent Groundstreak as well as White-angled Sulphur and an orange
Dahlia that we also stopped for when Marge spotted one further up the road.
We moved upslope, passing a Camberwell Beauty before finding a nice off-road spot where Eric
and co could prepare their picnic, and a track that led off through the forest more or less on the
level. The very first thing we saw was the fantastic Highland Monarch a large species not at all like
the Monarch Butterfly itself. Here the trackside flora was varied with the large Salvia fulgens, a
deep blue subspecies of Salvia mexicana, and a little blue Salvia joining the parade of salvias. We
also admired the strange shrubby milkwort with blue and yellow flowers, Moninia ciliaris. The
pines and oaks were a wonderful mix intermixed with trees of Buddlea cordata and Clethra mexicana,
and here and there a little Arbutus xalapensis and Comarostaphylos. Lobelia laxiflora was in great form
and along the banks were the ferns Blechnum occidentale, Asplenium monanthes, Adiantum princeps
and Adiantium andicola. Fabulous Mexican Elfstreaks, black and white striped undersides and
uppers of an intense shimmering blue, sallied back and forth and we all got great views of a
Yellow-angled Sulphur that posed well. Hummingbirds were abundant, particularly White-eared,
and Black-chinned and Amethyst-throated were also seen. A fabulous Red-faced Warbler was in
one of the oaks with several Townsend's Warblers and we also saw Blue Mockingbirds, Greenstriped Brushfinch and Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer.
Our highest stop of the visit, over nine thousand feet, took us through Oyamel (a fir) dominated
forest. The trees were huge! There were oaks too. American Painted Ladies sat atop the various
large Asteraceae and here the large Salvia was Salvia gesnerifolia. By the van was the yellow Coreopsis
petrophiloides and there were new ferns in the shape of Woodwardia spinulosus and Dryopteris
wallichiana as well as Cheilanthes farinosa and several other Cheilanthes. A squirrel disappeared off
through the trees.
We headed back down into the main valley stopping briefly once we had reached the wetlands
north of the town. Here a little area of open water had some fine plumaged Green-winged Teal and
cinnamon Teal and also Black-necked Stilts and American Avocets glowing in the afternoon sun.
Further along where the water opened out we saw several American White Pelicans, many of them
very close to the road, and Laughing Gulls flew overhead.
While Ivan and Eric took some the group direct to the hotel ten minutes drive away, several of us
stayed out for further birdwatching at the corner of the lake. The water levels were high and our
usual livestock farm had now become a small lake with water right to the roadside and the lane we
normally walk along had a little flotilla of fish visible swimming along followed not long after by a
pelican that manoeuvred itself expertly through a barbed wire fence! Round the fringes of the
water were many duck, coots and a nice flock of Short-billed Dowitchers. A pretty flock of Blackbellied Whistling Ducks sat by some snoozing pelicans on an island. Flocks and flocks of various
'blackbirds' passed us, or sat in the trees in the water, a fantastic sight. There were very many
Yellow-headed Blackbirds looking like citrus fruits in the trees whilst Red-winged Blackbirds had
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their red shoulder marks shining in the sun. There were lots of grackles and Brown-headed
Cowbirds too.
Then it was back to the Hotel Hacienda and across the road to a restaurant that served another fine
meal – the fish a la veracruzana was excellent and Eric and I tried a dish of marinaded shrimps and
salad which Eric then doused in a fiery salsa – quite delicious though the warmth from the salsa
was a warmth that just got warmer as the minutes ticked by!
Day 6
th
February 10
to Pátzcuaro
Morning dawned with breakfast at the Hotel. The freshly squeezed orange juice was from oranges
from heaven and the plate of fruit consumed we were then confronted with eggs and bacon.
We headed north on to the extensive Sayula salt flats, these sitting in the large tectonic depression
between the huge stratovolcanoes we'd been staying next to and the Sierra el Tigre to the east.
After much salt flat we headed up over a hill and found Mexico's largest lake, Chapala, in front of
us. We followed the southern shoreline for a good way, water on our left, fine hillsides of cacti and
oak scrub on our right. We were seeing large flocks of pelicans as we drove but eventually it all
became a bit much and we stopped at a village on a promontory. Here were thousands of pelicans
either side of the village. We sauntered down amongst them and found ourselves just metres from
a large flock. We turned to leave them in peace but then a group of very young children appeared
with a wheelbarrow full of fish entrails. They were just three or four years old and definitely
smaller than the pelicans in front of them! They went to the shore, right amongst the pelicans and
dumped the contents and there was bedlam. Pelicans came in from all directions, on foot or in the
air. It was a spectacular sight. The pelicans were a touch shy of us at first but the lure of all that fish
was just too much and they waded in. Cameras clicked as pelicans walked by or flew just metres
from our heads. A number of Ring-billed Gulls joined the feeding frenzy. Pelicaned out, we left
them to it, though we did stop for Killdeer and Eastern Phoebe by the vehicles. There had been a
few butterflies too, with Reakirt's Blue and some skippers amongst all the pelican feathers!
Then it was south through Jiquilpan. Lunch was by a lake that often reaches the road edge but this
year was some way distant, the nearer areas were fields, some of them wet enough to host a few
egrets and herons. Nearer at hand though were butterflies. There were a number of Monarchs and
at least one monarch-mimic in the form of a Soldier. A Checkered White was found by Nigel whilst
I had a run of great butterflies on a damp spot along a track where in turn Ellada Checkerspot, the
shining green Brown Greenstreak and a fantastic blue metalmark by the name of Black-patched
Bluemark came and went.
We drove through a village peopled by local Indians en route to a viewpoint that looked out over
Paricutín. Here we heard how the volcano had first appeared in a farmer's field back in 1943 as a
little hole in the ground spurting fire, and how it grew to a volcano two thousand feet high over
the next year. We also discussed the origins of the volcanoes along the Neovolcanic axis and the
different lava types involved as well as the plate tectonics that were producing all this vulcanicity.
Then it was down into Uruapan where we stopped for an ice-cream before continuing on to
Patzcuaro.
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Day 7
th
February 11
Cerro Burro & Tzintzuntzan
Another superb breakfast under our belts (the fruit and juices here are wonderful) we left at just
gone nine and drove uphill to the old volcanic hill of Cerro el Burro half an hour south of the town.
It has a communication tower on the top and of course a road (track) up to it. At the top we were at
ten thousand feet and though it was warm in the sun it was pretty cool when a cloud came over.
Almost the first clouds we had seen all tour, but they soon passed. The views over the landscapes
in all directions were sublime. We stopped by our first Cirsium ehrenbergii and immediately started
noting hummingbirds. They zipped here and they zipped there and it would be fair to say that
they were never out of hearing throughout the walk which took up the whole morning. Our first
hummingbird was a perched White-eared Hummingbird, followed quickly by two or three
Magnificent Hummingbirds, then a stunning perched male Black-throated Hummingbird in full
plumage. Up at the top there were Ericaceae – notably Comarostaphylos discolor, lots of Baccharis
conferta, hawthorn trees amongst the young firs and pines, and lots of the large Cirsium ehrenbergii.
We spent the next two hours walking slowly back down the mountain (we probably only covered
two kiloemtres) until Ivan picked us up. Salvias were particularly good with the powder blue
Salvia lavenduloides and the vibrant scarlet Salvia elegans the best. We also saw a pink species that
was almost certainly the real Salvia curvifolia and some large red Salvia fulgens. Yellow Bidens
ostruthioides was joined by other members of the Asteracae, also yellows – fleshy Senecio tolucana,
huge Rumfordia floribunda, the immense Roldana angulifolia and another Senecio that looked a lot like
barba-jovis. The yellows didn't stop there with Packera sanguisorbae frequent along the trackside, and
both Verbesina oncophora and Verbesina virgata were here and there. Yellow and orange Castilleja
tenuiflora coloured the banks, occasionally with Castilleja arvensis and its red heads. Anna found a
lovely plant of Penstemon campanulatum with large pink flowers and just ten metres down the road
there was the deep reddish Penstemon roseum also in good flower. Though very high up we did see
a few butterflies, notably the Mylitta Crescent whose food plant is the large Cirsiums, but the most
prominent lepidopteran was the stunning Princely Tiger Moth (Chrysocale principalis) whose
shimmering green wings and body were shot through with purple, pink and bluish hues. This was
really common and enjoyed visiting the tall Roldanas and especially Buddleia cordata where it was in
flower. Mexican Chickadees, Ruby-crowned Kinglets and Townsend's Warblers were in the trees
whilst at lower levels we saw Slate-throated Redstarts and a superb Colima Warbler. Steller's Jays
called frequently and were seen a couple of times. However birdwise it was all about the
hummingbirds and they were everywhere, not always very visible, but always there! Magnificent
Hummingbirds were much the most noticeable and we had good 'scope views of these at regular
intervals. A Ruby-throated Hummingbird or two appeared, and there was a single Calliope. A
stunning Green Violet-ear was a lovely sight. Towards the end of our walk we came across the first
of a number of Camberwell Beauties (Mourning Cloaks) and this one appeared happy to be
photographed. There was also an American Painted Lady or two. There were few epiphytes but
Pleopeltis ferns grew on some of the oaks and the maidenhairs Adiantum andicola and Adiantum
braunii were on banks and rock-faces. Other plants of note were an Angelica, Arracacia atropurpurea,
Eryngium alternatum and Vicia americana. Among the many oaks present we saw the shiny-leaved
Quercus laurina, the huge-leaved Quercus magnolifolia and the pretty little Quercus canbyi. There
were some large flowering specimens of Clethra mexicana and Alnus acuminata was abundant. As
we drove down the lower parts we admired tall yellow Cirsium toluccanensis and the orange
flowered Satureja thymbrifolia.
Lunch was taken at a restaurant on the shores of Patzcuaro Lake. Eric chose the starter for us, a
dish of freshly deep fried fish in batter, a tiny fish from the lake captured by the butterfly-net
fisherman who go out to fish in the early hours. These were consumed with guacamole and onion
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and salsa inside tacos. Lovely. Main dishes followed....so we were feeling in need of a siesta by the
time we finished! Outside the restaurant was the cactus/thorn scrub typical of this area here with
many Yucca elephantides. Scott's Orioles flew past us and there were Texas Crescents and a
Chestnut-marked Skipper too.
Then it was round the lake to Tzintzuntzán, the ancient Tarascan Indian capital, the name
translating as ‘Place of the Hummingbirds’. At the time of the Spanish Conquest there were
reckoned to be 40,000 people living there. We spent much of the time across the road as Eric took
us on a guided tour of the Franciscan Monastery in its fine gardens and the Baroque Church and
atrium where the monks attempted to convert the Tarascans! The gardens were full of very old,
very wide, and very gnarled, olive trees as well as other fine trees and the church had an enormous
ash growing in its yard. Nigel and I spent this time up the road attempting to find access to good
habitat and largely failing though I did see Clay-coloured Sparrow and the strikingly-marked
Rusty Sparrow.
Then it was back to the hotel by six.
Day 8
th
February 13
Tacámbaro & Arroyo Frio
We set off at seven and headed south to Tacámbaro, taking just over an hour to reach this pleasant
little town which sits at the juztaposition of the Michoacán mountains and the Tierra Caliente, the
Hot Lands, of the Balsas Drainage. We stopped at the Hotel Mansion del Molino to take advantage
of their excellent avocado omelette breakfast, a veritable feast, served with the usual tea, coffee,
orange juice, bread and a plate of fresh papaya. The hotel is a delight, an old flour meal converted
into a modern but atmospheric hotel, and with that feeling of solid permanence attendant to thick
stone walls. Outside birds noted were Violet-crowned Hummingbird, Canyon Wren and Nigel had
lots of fun with a Nashville Warbler, and just before we left the regional endemic Dusky
Hummingbird appeared.
We headed downhill rapidly, the road snaking down a long slope covered in sugar cane, but with
steeper valley sides and barrancas cloaked in productive-looking scrub. Blackberry fields are
becoming commoner down here. We took a brief walk along a track getting great views of more
Violet-crowned Hummingbirds as well as Western Tanager and White-throated Thrushes. A
Pesudobombax elliptica tree which had just a few blooms was weighted down by Psittacanthus in
fruit and this proved attractive to Western Tanagers. Commelina bloomed by the trackside along
with Mirabilis jalapa, and a large yellow-flowered evening primrose relative. The nearby canyon
edge (the land here has extraordinarily deep little canyons that are hardly noticeable from the
surface) had lots of the clambering vine that is covered in pink and lime bracts and long-tubed
flowers and there were tiny blue Convolvulaceae and large pink ones too. A Polydamus Swallowtail
perched on some vines and we saw Sleepy Orange and lots and lots of grass yellows. Back by the
van was a hedge draped with a flowering Aristolochia.
Then it was on to Arroyo Frio where we were to spend much of the day. This is just a little canyon,
the fifty metre high walls of black volcanic rocks support some fantastic figs, their yellow trunks
rising from convoluted root systems that wrap around the cliff bases. Some sugar cane is
cultivated, but much of the canyon's vegetation is natural or semi-natural and there is plenty of
botanical variety present, notably some nice vines, an Aristolochia which had flowers, and lots of
introduced Thunbergia alata. A fine hanging blue Thunbergia, also introduced, hangs down the cliff
next to the waterfall.
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This is a marvellous place for butterflies and they took centre-stage today. A Ruddy Daggerwing
and a Great Southern White greeted us as they sat by a damp patch on the roadside as we got out
of the vehicles. Hardly further and we'd seen three species of long-tailed skippers, the pretty little
Bordered Patch and an impressive White Angled-Sulphur. We walked the half kilometre or so up
to the cafe area where a swimming pool had been made close to the waterfall, some of us taking
almost the entire morning to cover this half kilometre! The Banded Peacock was a popular subject
for photographers. Several Ruddy Daggerwings and some brilliantly orange Julias competed for
flowery landing places at a sport where we spent really a long time looking at the butterflies so
many were there. Daggerwings and Julias were joined by the equally orange Juno Heliconian and
with them was a Silver Emperor and the stunning large Rusty Page. As we started to look closely
at this flowering bush we found that there were many smaller butterflies too. No less than six
species of hairstreak were perched there! Half a dozen Tiger-eye Hairstreaks were a pleasing sight
whilst the strikingly marked Zebra Cross-streak could hardly be missed. Other Hairstreaks
included Gold-banded hairstreaks, Burnt Chocolate Hairstreak and the unusual Sky-Blue
Greatstreak. Meanwhile things were getting very busy out on a damp patch on the road with blues
arriving in numbers, notably Ceraunus, Cassius and Marine Blues and there were riodinids
appearing too, especially nice was the fabulous Black-patch Bluemark. I popped down into the
stream to see what was about and was surrounded by all sorts of Odonata with damselflies
particularly abundant. Rubyspots and various blue species were joined by a delicate little thing
with the males having a brilliant blue body and shimmering bright red eyes, the females having
the rear of their abdomen coloured a fetching violet! A moth that looked much like a wasp was
clearly a clearwing – it had patterned wings, a ginger-orange thorax and an abdomen striped black
and a striking sky-blue! Here were the largest of Central Mexico's many maidenhair ferns formed
part of the understory – this Adiantum trapeziforme. Adiantum poiretti grew on the cliffs, lots of
Dennstaedtia distenta, like a huge bracken, along wet gullies, and the impressive tropical-looking
Tectaria heracleifolia under a large fig.
Back up on the track Zebra Heliconids were abundant and we saw the superficially similar but
much larger and differently shaped Malachite which also allowed close-up photography. There
were sulphurs too – the huge Orange Sulphur, the Cloudless Sulphur, a few Apricot Sulphurs and
also Lyside Sulphurs and Mexican Yellows.
Suddenly a fantastic gold-spotted helicopter damselfly appeared, at first sight it looked like four
dancing gold dots in sync amongst the trackside vegetation but then as we looked closely we
realised these were the wing tips, these fully ten cm long and the body even longer, an improbably
delicate and yet impressive insect. Moving on we spotted Squirrel Cuckoos, a basilisk in the stream
and Nigel found a superb little tree frog which he later identified as the Dwarf Mexican Tree Frog,
Tlalocohyla smithii.
Up at the waterfall we watched many damselflies including a brilliant blue bluet and the lovely
rubyspot and we'd already trained our lenses on the pink-purple Roseate Skimmers whilst
walking up. The White Morpho swung back and forth across the front of the falls and Black
Phoebe posed for those that sat and enjoyed the scene. We took lunch up here, Eric as usual
providing us with a veritable feast, freshly cooked beef or chorizo sausage with courgette, onions
and peppers if you liked, served in wheat tacos – superb. So good that Eric then fed the local
politician too!
Meanwhile we were off again enjoying all sorts of wonderful creatures in the early afternoon.
There was a large iridescent green bug, a dodgy looking black spider under a log, and a strange
bug/wasp/moth with variegated blue-black and yellow markings. Down in the shade of the stream
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we saw Thick-tipped Greta and the lovely Tiger Mimic-Queen. Nigel found a tree attracting sapsipping nymphalids. Two impressive Prepona butterflies came in and turned out to be two species,
Two-spotted Prepona and Feathered Prepona. By one sat a Blomfield's Beauty, and on the ground
below was a rather worn White Morpho, but one quiet enough to sit on the end of my finger! A
fabulously bright Orange Banner posed in the sun and other species of note were Leading Redring, Red-rim, Painted White, Soldier, and an abundance of skippers than included Two-barred
Flashers,Coyote Cloudywing, Fantastic Skipper, as well as several 'White Skippers' such as
Laviana's, Turk's-ap and Erichson's.
At four we left, arriving back at Patzcuaro at five-thirty. Some of us then carried on to the lake for a
forty minute session before dusk. We hoped to see the roosting Barn Owls here and did see one, as
well as finding some feathers – these are quite dark birds compared to most UK birds. Tricoloured
Heron was seen and in the distance were many White-faced Ibis. A surprise was a Chihuahuan
Raven flying over, less so a Northern (Hen) Harrier doing the same. A Belted Kingfisher appeared
once or twice. We searched hard for Black-polled Yellowthroat, but could only find Common
Yellowthroats and Marsh Wrens. Back at the hotel we met up for dinner where a number of us
tried the Beef 'a la tampiqueňa;' which was delicious, the beef so succulent.
Day 9
th
February 13
Lago Cuitzeo, Morelia & Mil Cumbres
We left the excellent Mision Patzcuaro at seven and drove for forty-five minutes to Morelia, capital
of Michoacan and one of the world's more beautiful cities. After breakfast Eric took many of the
group on a gentle and informative tour of some of the highlights of Morelia's city centre, a
UNESCO world heritage site because of its cultural significance. No less than one thousand three
th
hundred buildings are listed as heritage sites and almost the entire city centre dates from the 17
century. The following account is from the year before's trip when I was with the group so it may
be similar to what you did, or may not! The magnificent city-centre cathedral, set opposite the
governor's building and next to a pleasant open park was where we started. Eric told us of the
significance of the religious figures carved on the front of the cathedral and that the reason that the
church was unusually aligned was so that it faced a similarly misaligned cathedral in Mexico City.
We went into the magnificent interior and saw the huge organ and also the 'manifest', made of
only silver and gold and weighing half a tonne. Eric told us of the story of how in 1985 it had been
stolen – by a tour guide! We visited the law court – the Palace of Justice - where Eric showed us the
amazing murals produced by Alejandro Cardenas. The main one depicts Morelos holding Los
Sentimientos de la Nacion, the sheaths of paper cascading downwards to signify the speech on the
document, whilst all around are images that provide the substance to the revolution. The Spanish
are illustrated as rather pained figures on the ground, their eyes blinded, signifying the blindness
of power. We next moved to an old school where many of the major figures in Mexico's revolution
either taught or were students. Today there was a strike so none of the modern day students were
wandering about in this historical building. Our last port of call was the Church of Santa Rosa,
formerly the Church of Santa Catalina of Sienna when it was a Dominican Convent. Here we learnt
that once a girl went inside to become a nun, she never came out again. Eric's tale of the goings on
surrounding the moving of the nunnery were very amusing. The church itself was amazingly
ornate. Some elected to wander the town and explore the streets and shops by themselves.
Meanwhile a couple of us headed half an hour north of town to the huge Lago Cuitzeo. We spent
an hour walking along an area of shore where in the past our groups had seen up to a hundred or
so snakes along the road and lake edge. We looked like we were going to find none at all today
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until at the end of our walk we came across around eight Diamondback Watersnakes sunning
themselves in the dead reeds. The birding was pretty good meantime though with large flocks of
Fulvous Whistling Ducks flying around us and even larger flocks of Yellow-headed Blackbirds
flying past too. Little Green Herons and Nigh Herons were in the reeds with Marsh Wrens,
Common Yellowthroats and the local endemic Black-polled Yellowthroat. A decent number of
Clarke's Grebes, looking fabulous in the bright light, their yellow beaks and red eyes shining
bright, swam close by and allowed good photography. Further out were Eared Grebes, Ruddy
Duck, Pintail, Shoveler and Gadwall.
We moved up into the dry scrub that covers the hills hereabouts. Nigel immediately spotted a
fabulously fresh Mexican Silverspot which hung there waiting for the photos to be taken! The
vegetation was thickest in a little valley and where it descended to the road there was plenty of
flora and fauna. A striking red flowered bush was very nice, and the purple flower Asteracean
below it attracted more Mexican Silverspots. The spring attracted a MacGillivray's Warbler as well
as female Lazuli Bunting and Indigo Buntings. There were lots of crescents coming down to the
water's edge, Texas and Pale-banded amongst them. A Western Pygmy Blue was a nice surprise
and there were various skippers. We continued up the hill bypassing a frisky-looking steer, and
meeting various nice flowers such as a very bright Lopezia, and lots of the knee-height wands of red
flowered Loeselia mexicana. There were also 'trees' of Ipomeia arborescens, some fine cacti, and
another red-flowered plant with long-lipped flowers. All these red flowers suggested
hummingbirds might be somewhere in attendance and so it was no surprise when we found
several Broad-billed Hummingbirds, as well as a single Lucifer Hummingbird. Ellada
Checkerspots were very common. A Brown-crested Flycatcher proved very tame.
We all met up again at twelve-thirty and stopped by Marcello's huge kiln-like oven which
produced some Calzones (wrapped-over pizzas) that we took with us as we left the city. We were
introduced to the new baby, one of twins, these to go with the triplets they had three years ago –
five children aged between 0 and 3 – wow! Within half an hour we were up into the Mil Cumbres,
or thousand peaks, an extraordinary area of highland with peaks stretching away as far as the eye
could see, much of it covered in forest, some with avocado groves, and some with campesino
farms. It seems amazing that such a good road goes eighty kilometres through such terrain and yet
there's hardly a settlement of note nor indeed many connections with other roads. We stopped at a
small waterfall where there were Clethra trees in flower by the stream. Up by the water was the
pretty pink flowered shrub Fuschia paniculata. As we ate our lunch the various butterflies came
down to mud-puddle below the little waterfall. We soon spotted a Magnificent Swallowtail and
soon a second one appeared the two of them flying around together. A little patch of mixed
crescents and skippers also held several lovely White-patched Eighty-eights. Mexican Dartwhites
held sway over the Fuschia bushes and tall Roldanas, hurtling round in groups of half a dozen or
so. Mexican Silverspots looked stunning in the bright sunshine, their bright orange uppers flashing
as they too flew round in groups of half a dozen. When they landed the fabulous mother-of-pearl
undersides were quite a contrast. In a roadside culvert was a Juno Heliconian competing with the
silverspots for the brilliance of its orange! Eyed Sisters also sat in the stream bed and other fine
butterflies here included Green-eyed Whites and Blackpatch Bluemarks.
We continued east, stopping first by a cliff where the agave Furcraea bedinghausenii grew, the
inflorescences spectacular arching things a couple of metres long. Nearby were drifts of a little
Mimulus species covered the wettest parts of cliffs while little yellow pouched Calceolaria mexicana
preferred unstable slopes. Salvias were represented by the lovely furry (Barbara Cartland-) pink
Salvia curvifolia and the blue Salvia polystachya, also a little Salvia mexicana. Dyssodia tagetifolia added
its own brand of orange to the scene and there was lots of Lopezia racemosa and the rather shrubby
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orange and yellow Cuphea bustemata with pink stamens and purple 'ears'. The elegant spires of
yellow blooms on the Galphimia glauca bushes were very fine as were the striking red blooms of
Bouvardia ternifolia, and there was another Bouvardia across the road with yellow and red flowers.
We stopped for some birding taking a walk down a track. The trees held several Slate-throated
Redstarts and warblers too, the latter including Townsend's and the stunning Red Warbler. Across
the road we watched Yellow-eyed Juncos, Mexican Chickadees and a pair of the gorgeous Rufouscapped Brushfinches. Next was a stop for orchids. These the lovely Rhyncostele cervantesii, an
epiphytic species with large white orange-brown lined blooms. These were quite high up a tree but
were a fine sight nonetheless.
Our last stop was at the Mil Cumbres viewpoint where mile after mile of blue-tinted mountains
faded into the distance, a truly impressive, if impossible to photograph scene. The local landowner
had put a fence across the view! However we found a side track that allowed us to do so and also
to enjoy views of a lovely Flame-coloured Tanager. Then it was through some sublime high
altitude country to Tlalpujahua and the hotel, arriving there just before eight. Ivan and Beto (Ivan's
brother, who like Ivan lives in this lovely little town) went straight to work in the kitchen and
served up a tasty spaghetti starter followed by chicken with some delicious courgettes and a
beetroot cabbage salad, all provided by Beto's wife.
Day 10
th
February 14
Sierra Chincua
We awoke to yet another sunny warm day but being at over eight and a half thousand feet it was a
mite chilly out first thing. Ivan, Beto, and the staff provided us with a most excellent and filling
breakfast as usual and so we were on our way at nine-thirty. The drive to the Sierra Chincua is
through little villages and fields and then a long tract of forest, this occasionally opens out into the
'pastizales' at the highest levels, probably full of flowers in the warm wet summer, but now barren
looking with close-cropped turf. After forty minutes we reached the reserve entrance which is at
eleven thousand feet.
Four years ago the Mexican Government funded and built a whole new complex here, gone are the
rustic shacks and rather downtrodden feel to the place, now there are gleaming new wooden
cabanas hosting a few shops and the concinas. Same families running the place though which was
good to see and also the same feeling of intimacy which pervades this place – there were only three
other vehicles in the carpark when we arrived.
This year the butterflies were quite close in terms of distance from the centre. We all elected to sit
on the led horses, even though the walk would have been relatively easy. This had the benefit of
supporting the local families whose land and to a certain extent livelihoods have been
appropriated by the new butterfly reserves. The gleaming new cabanas don't tell the whole story!
As is usually the case hardly anyone had been on a horse, or if they had phrases like 'dodgy
donkey ride in Petra' and 'Blackpool Beach' came out, but we were soon calmed of our worries for
the horses were relatively small and each was led.
It took us about twenty minutes to get to the dismounting point (other ride lengths in the recent
past have been twenty minutes to an hour) and involved a gentle ascent before a relatively level
track took us through the forest. We just sat back and admired the wonderful Abies religiosa forest
all about us. Once off our horses we slowly made our way on foot towards the butterflies which
were just a two minute walk away. We were met by an incredible sight. In amongst the thickest firs
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we could see the vast masses clinging to all the branches, trunks and all. There were only a couple
of other visitors when we got there. The steady morning sun meant that there were many
butterflies on the wing, everywhere you looked there were Monarchs on the wing. Wherever sun
caught the massed groups the outer ones would open their wings turning the surface orange.
There was a steady entry of these butterflies to the flying masses. There were butterflies all around
us swarming in the air, and so many were alighting on the many tall Roldanas and purple Senecio
callosus. We spent a while trying to figure out how to photograph the spectacle effectively! We also
learnt about the life history and migration of this extraordinary butterfly and snippets about how
the scientists estimate their numbers, how the butterflies navigate, and just how the authorities
have worked and compromised on how to effectively protect one the world's greatest wildlife
wonders.
We left the butterflies at one and walked back, the walk taking us round the hill and via a couple of
impressive viewpoints back to the centre. It was a chance to see a bit of the flora. Pretty pink Salvia
gracilis was common and the much larger red Salvia fulgens was here and there. The third Salvia
was blue, this the more compact headed lavenduloides. Little Nama prostratum, a member of the
waterleaf family scattered its diminutive white blooms across the forest floor. Purple Senecio
callosus and succulent-leaved yellow Senecio toluccensis were frequent. Back in the centre we had a
superb lunch laid on by one of the local concinas with the help of Ivan. A fine mushroom soup was
followed by a large plate of fried beef, onion and nopal (cactus – prickly pear without the prickles)
or cheese quesedillas.
Several of us went up to the stream to look for Axolotls. The edges of the stream showed traces of
last night's frost even though it was 4 in the afternoon. Not surprisingly the water was cold and
spending much time looking for the Axolotls was difficult. I was able to see several Michoacán
Stream Salamanders, but getting them into the little container to show the group proved beyond
me and my very cold feet! I also saw a single Mexican Tiger Salamander, much bigger and greyish,
but this certainly didn't want to play ball. Four flowers of Gentiana bicuspidata were found and
overhead a group of Steller's Jays flew over. Back around the centre some of us shopped as Yelloweyed Juncos and Yellow-rumped Warblers fed in the short turf.
On the way back we made a brief stop at a nearby ranch. Here we checked out the stream, but we
could not find the beautifully mottled Puerto Hondo Salamander, which would have been our
third species of Axolotl or Salamander for the afternoon. Then it was back to Tlalpujahua where
this time Beto's housekeeper rustled up another good meal finished with blocks of fruit
concentrate, one made with the fruits of Crataegus mexicana and the other from some kind of berry.
Day 11
th
February 15
El Rosario
Suitably filled with yet another fine Mexican breakfast we headed off into the hills if one can say
that when one is already at eight and a half thousand feet. In this case one certainly can for having
traversed the road through the Sierra Chincua which reaches eleven thousand feet above sea level
just half an hour from Tlalpujahua, we descended to Angangueo, and the newly improved road
(track) that rose steeply out of Angangueo soon passed over ten thousand feet before dropping just
slightly into El Rosario. Though many of the surrounding hills/mountainsides were covered in
forest, a goodly area was given over to small scale cultivation, mostly of maize. The straggling
villages looked really quite poor, giving us an insight into the problems facing the authorities in
providing a workable conservation plan for the Monarchs. These people need food and
jobs/money and so the situation is not ideal, even allowing for the payments made by the
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government and the jobs provided by tourism to the area, for the latter are still relatively limited –
though today showed the potential for the place, though relatively quiet at 10.30, must have
catered for upwards of 2000 visitors today. We parked up just below the park entrance and filled
our daypacks with snacks and water. It was bright and sunny and already warm.
The walk up is one that we all hear about beforehand as being steep and quite a long way. The bare
facts are that when the Monarchs are at their furthest (they were this year) that the walk is about
two kilometres (bit less probably) and the vertical ascent is about 1200 feet. The path is quite steep
in the lower sections but is very well made, with concrete sections and nice even steps too. We took
it very slowly as there was much to see on the way up. Salvias were particularly abundant and
dominated the understorey under the impressive shrubs of Senecios barba-jovis and Senecio
angulosus. The large red Salvia fulgens was only found top and bottom but in between the striking
Salvia elegans was everywhere along with the bright blue Salvia mexicana and a blue and white
species I haven't yet worked out. There was also a little of the pink Salvia gracilis. There was
abundant Geranium latum. Birds were frequent, especially hummingbirds. White-eared
Hummingbirds were really common and we also saw Green Violet-ears. We heard little Goldencrowned Kinglets high in the firs. This is a great place to get to know the iconic Red Warbler, and
all got a chance to see what a fabulous bright little bird this is, we saw a number during the day.
Slate-throated Redstarts and Townsend's Warblers were both seen as was a Chestnut-capped
Brushfinch. We reached a small plateau with a pleasing landscape of open grassland with patches
of Juniperus monticola and the invasive Baccharis conferta.
We were frequently passed by families and small groups, mostly Mexican but certainly a few
French and few from the USA too. It was great to see so much interest in seeing this amazing
wildlife phenomen from the locals. The future of the reserves looks much more secure with such a
turnout. Usually crowds are an anathema to wildlife-watching but here it mattered not to the
butterflies who just continued to flutter around however many people there were nearby. And the
birds were obviously used to the continual passage of people and were very visible, perhaps only
one or two skulking species were keeping their heads down more than usual!
Now the butterflies started to gather in numbers on the flowers alongside the path and groups of
people stood amid fluttering masses of orange. As we neared the colony we spent a while
photographing people with Monarchs flying all around their heads. Suddenly the air seemed filled
with orange butterflies. We stood and watched thousands upon thousands flying out of the firs
and into the blue sky and all around us, the air full of the sound of fluttering wings as well as
many people marvelling (it has to be said with reasonable observance of the signs asking for
quiet!) at the scene. We tried those tricky to get multiple butterfly flight shots for a while!
Moving just a few metres on we found ourselves amongst the Monarch roost. The trees were
festooned with great bundles of butterflies. They looked like nothing more than massed dead
needles hanging from the Oyamel trees, except that everywhere around them the air was filled
with orange – it was an extraordinary sight. It was difficult to comprehend the numbers involved
for the butterflies sat many deep, however it was clear that this year El Rosario had impressive
numbers – probably a hundred million or more! There had been three separate large colonies this
winter at El Rosario and they had recently merged into one mega-colony, comfortably the largest
wintering aggregation in Mexico, and probably one of the largest for many years. It was interesting
to place this against the stories from the US and Canada about a massive drop in numbers this
year. Are the Monarchs not bothering to go north of Mexico now?
It was warm and sunny and the air was filled with swarms of orange butterflies. Even whilst
walking you could hear all the wings, and all the nectaring plants were covered in butterflies. The
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effect is mesmerising and as the sun got warmer the activity just got better and better. Butterflies
streamed past so thickly that it felt we'd get swept along with them. It is a unique experience and
one that is difficult to portray on recording media. Video or film perhaps works best – it is a
challenge with cameras to try to capture some of the essence of this incredible experience. All sorts
of techniques may be tried – individual and group portraits, humans with butterflies sat on them,
looking directly up into the sky and trying to catch the feel of myriad orange butterflies belting
hither and thither. My favourite is using a wide angle low down amongst the hordes on the
ground so that you can see the masses at ground level, the Oyamel Trees (firs) up to their tops and
a bunch of butterflies in the air too! Once or twice there was a sudden explosion of butterflies
emanating from some part of the colony, or mostly from the trees where they were alighting in vast
numbers to open their wings in the sun, the explosions sent orange butterfly-shrapnel hurtling
towards the sky.
After two and a half hours enjoying this spectacle we started down, probably looking quite happy
to the people still coming up the track. Down at the village we met for our late lunch in a cantina
by the vans. Though looking primitive the cantina was the model of efficiency and produced loads
of excellent quesadillas filled with cheese and/or mushrooms as well as chicken mole and soup.
Below the cantina we found Striped, Lincoln's and the rare Sierra Madre Sparrows in a field, the
latter peculiar in have a rather wren-like jizz. Hermit Warbler was noted too.
Back in Tlalpujahua there was time to have a good wander round, perhaps a little shopping, before
dinner which tonight was provided by Beto's wife. A rice starter was followed by some gorgeous
baked Tilapia, and finished with an exquisite home-made cheesecake...
Day 12
th
February 16
Tlalpujahua & Rancho los Cedros
This morning’s breakfast was a bit special. A fine freshly squeezed fruit juice alongside fresh fruit,
breads, jams, butter, tea, coffee etc was a given, but the superb 'barbecue' served up by Beto was
really something. It was a from a whole sheep wrapped in agave leaves and cooked slowly for six
hours in a pit. Served with tacos and if one wanted lime juice or chillies....
We headed into town with Eric to the cathedral, the insides of which give meaning to the
description 'baroque'. Eric told us about the cathedral and also the history of this beautiful little
town. We learnt that in its heyday Tlalpujahua was second only to Mexico City in importance. He
told us that when they gave out the first fifty telephone numbers Mexico City had the first twenty,
Tlalpujahua the next twenty! Then we had time to visit the odd silver shop, arts and crafts shops
and the Christmas decoration shop - the latter is because there is a factory in Tlalpujahua that
makes hand-blown Christmas decorations. There was a variety of intriguing produce on sale in the
lively and extensive Sunday market that had stalls all around the main plaza as well as side streets
where clothing and vegetables were being sold. One corner of the main plaza was given over to
preserved fruits which are a speciality here, there were very many different types available, as
whole fruits, covered in a sugary syrup, to compressed fruit sold by the block. Monica purchased
some limes filled with coconut.
Then it was time to say farewell to the Hotel Mineral. We headed off to the old goldmine. Eric took
some of the group inside. Between 1907 and 1913 it was the largest producer of gold in the world.
It continued producing for many more years but disaster overtook the mine in 1937 and many
people died. The town dwindled for a period but is now thriving again. Nigel and I elected to stay
above ground and went down to the stream below the mine. Our target here was butterflies. A
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couple of Two-tailed Swallowtails flew past. There were numerous fly-bys from Mexican
Silverspots and various pierids. We found several Gold-banded Dartwhites mud-puddling by the
water and also saw single Mexican Dartwhite and Narrow-banded Dartwhite. There were at least
half a dozen Camberwell Beauties posing in sunny spots along the streamside. Some great
Raccoon footprints too.
Now we drove south passing through high country, most of it around eight and a half thousand
feet above sea level. After an hour's drive we arrived at the home of a friend of Eric and co, namely
Victor, and his son Pablo, seven yesterday! They live on the Rancho los Cedros, perched high on
th
the montane plains near Villa Victoria. Their abode is a wonderful 19 century farmhouse with
extensive farm buildings of a similar age. Victor has to some extent renovated all of this, and
attempts to farm the land in as sustainable way as possible. Income is often minimal from such an
enterprise so our visit is most useful as well as great fun for us.
Lunch was served under a tree outside the kitchen – we could hear the bees high in the ash tree.
We enjoyed a tasty vegetable soup, and a salad of leaves, tomatoes and something I've forgotten
the name of served with a main course that was locally (on the farm) caught rabbit served with
vegetables and optionally some salsa sauce.
After lunch we walked up the field out front to the low cliffs 200m away. The oak trees up here had
a healthy covering of a fine bromeliad, Tillandsia erubescens, the narrow glaucous leaves form a vase
from which rises a glowing orange red inflorescence, and when a flower opens it is bright yellow
(apparently sometimes purple too). We searched for and this year found the lovely yellow and
orange flowered Echeveria secunda or perhaps I should say that Pablo searched for and found this
for us as he scampered over the rocks. Pablo had the best flowering specimen back in a pot at the
house! We saw Inca Doves, Ruby-crowned Kinglets and Orange-crowned Warblers, as well as
some Striped Sparrows. There was some fine fragrant Ribes affinis under the cliffs and some good
ferns on them. There were a few butterflies about but the best of these were on a large Ageratum
on a steep ash slope. Three or four American Painted Ladies were the most obvious though we
enjoyed more the Acmon Blue, Ardent Crescent and female Zela Metalmark. There was also a
Dainty Sulphur and an Orange Sulphur and the Sachem. Buff-breasted Flycatcher and Gray
Flycatcher were also noted. As we drove out a Loggerhead Shrike was on a small tree.
We continued southwards across the plateau before re-entering forested lands and descending
towards Valle de Bravo. A hundred minutes after departing Los Cedros we reached Rancho de las
Margaritas where we settled in and got ourselves organised before dinner at seven-thirty.
After dinner several of us went on a night walk a few kilometres from the Rancho. This took us
through a great mix of habitats, some open and some forested, with it looked, great possibility to
see something. Sadly, apart from a couple of domestic cats right at the start, we failed to see any
mammals, or indeed birds, though we did at least hear Mexican Whip-poor-will, Eared Poorwill,
and a couple of distant owls.
Day 13
th
February 17
Colorines & Santo Tomas
Early morning round the grounds and in the woodlands and fields outside yielded some nice
birds, with Nigel seeing Curve—billed Thrashers, Anna photographing Mexican Jay, and me
seeing Rufous-capped Warblers, Bewick’s Wrens and Black-headed Siskins. We filled up on
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Chilaquiles for breakfast with juice, breads, fruit etc etc.
Then it was off down past the lake at Valle de Bravo. The scenery here is outstanding, the lake
surrounded by forested hills of all shapes and sizes, and the quaint town itself perched on the
shore and on islands under a sun which was rapidly gaining power. We made our first stop just
below the dam where we walked a little track. Several species of bromeliad grew in the trees, the
weighty-looking Tillandsia fasciculare and the sparser redder flowered spikes of the equally large
Tillandsia calophrysus were the bigger ones, not sure what the fine leaved smaller species were.
There were a few Gray Silkies in the trees along with both Baltimore and some very bright Hooded
Orioles. Lesser Goldfinches, Blue Mockingbird and Black-headed Grosbeaks were also seen. There
were plenty of non-flowering orchids on the trees but eventually we found the flowers of delicate
Encyclia linkiana blooming not far up a tree.
We moved on down into the wonderful country below Colorines. Here the land drops sharply in a
series of sharp steps so there are waterfalls, canyons, valleys full of rich subtropical vegetation and
slopes covered in a variety of semi-arid vegetation including light West Mexican Forest. The result
is a staggeringly rich biodiversity so that both birds and butterflies are here in both abundance and
variety. With the superb weather we'd been having it was no surprise to see butterflies taking
centre stage today. They were staggeringly numerous at all the sites we visited from mid-morning
and we saw some fabulous species. We started this phase of the day at the waterfall below
Colorines. Here we spent two hours pottering up and down the short section of track between the
road bridge and the waterfall, indeed for many of us paddling became the best way of getting to
the butterflies. First though, some plants. Right by the road bridge we found a fine long-lipped
Aristolochia in bloom, whilst up on the cliff we spotted a wand-like little white-flowered orchid, a
Mamillaria cactus, and the shrub-sized succulent Senecio praecox with no leaves and sprays of
yellow flowers. We spotted the most beautiful of Bromeliads growing on both the cliff and the little
trees on it. This was Tillandsia iodantha, small and very cute! The very glaucous, almost white leaves
are narrow and curve upwards, and on the flowering shoots these extend and turn a translucent
red. Emerging from these are rich purple flowers with yellow anthers, all in a plant just 10cm high
or so – gorgeous!
A word that could very well be used for the Teal Beamer we found sitting on the riverbed. This is a
very large skipper with the wings of a fast flier and coloured, as its name suggests, with a mixture
of blues and greens as well as the black and white 'beams'. Such is the beauty of this insect that it
was voted even better than the colourful Anna's Eight-eight, a delight in reds, blues, black and
white, and most appreciated by....Anna. These were two of the highlights, yet there was so much
more. There were huge numbers of some species, notably Zebra Heliconids and the Eurema
yellows, both species almost 'swarming'! There were good numbers of Juno Heliconians too, and
other 'oranges' included a few Julias, some Ruddy Daggerwings, and all three Monarchs and
Monarch-mimics. White Morphos lazily flapped up and down. Under the shade lovely Malachites
were seen and here we found Mexican Ur-Satyrs, and a few White-rayed Pixies. A Many-banded
Daggerwing was seen and a Guatemalan (or Variable) Cracker mud-puddled away. Nigel had a
large yellow swallowtail land near him, otherwise the swallowtails were all Variable Cattlehearts,
their large red-pink bands flashing in the sun. Common Green-eyed Whites were here and there
and there was a good range of various Sulphurs seen. Back to the skippers..... there were so many.
Two-barred Flasher vied with the Teal Beamer for most spectacular. Other species noted included
Fantastic Skipper, Bold-faceted Skipper, Dorantes Longtail, Common Mellana, Ocala Skipper,
Variegated Skipper, Glazed Pellicia and Falcate Skipper.
There were birds too! Black Phoebes, a Spotted Sandpiper, and an American Dipper were along the
river. White-throated Swifts arced through the sky above the waterfall where numerous vultures
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soared, and a second year White-tailed Hawk floated by. There was Odonata everywhere.
Damselflies included plenty of the little red-eyed Fiery-eyed Dancer and two Rubytails – Canyon
and American. Among the dragonflies were the White-tailed Sylph, a Gomphid with a blue tail
spatula, and a meadowhawk that was entirely orange! A trip highlight was another Gold-tipped
Helicopter Damselfly that flew in typical slow-motion flight around me – simply stunning with the
light behind it. We were so busy during our stay that we didn't have time to look at the ditch with
the Tetra fish in it!
We moved up to the nearby town of Santa Tomas de Los Platanos where we stopped for icecreams.
They do really good icecreams here! Several tried the Mami Apple variety, I enjoyed the superb
Cajeta (goats milk dulce de Leche), others enjoyed a mixture of the various flavours on offer.
Remarkably as we sat there we could see three large dark swallowtails church spire 'topping' and a
White Morpho flapped by down the street!
Next was a stop by a bridge where the grackles glistened in the sun. A superb pair of Sparkling
Woodstars glittered under bougainvilleas where a Polydamus Swallowtail was just one amongst
many butterflies. There were a good number of White-rayed Pixies here and a staggering array of
skippers and blues. Some strange shaped honeycombs got us discussing how you tell bee's nests
from wasp's nests. But, we had to get to a picnic spot....it was getting late! A kilometre down the
road Ivan parked up the van. In a stream bed! As Eric and Ivan got the picnic ready the rest of us
pottered about along the river. Again the butterflies were astounding, so many of them, any
flowering plant had numbers, and damp patches, or sunny leaves were also heavily used. There
were many Rubyspot Damselflies here and amongst a range of dragonflies we saw lots of a black
Pennant. Back to the butterflies. Across the river a mango had an Anna's Eight-eight sitting on it,
and another tree an Orange Banner. Behind them was a little cave and inside it was an odd sight there was around two hundred skippers 'roosting' on the walls. These appear to be Fritzgaertner's
Flats! They fluttered uncomfortably if we moved too quickly and when they did so it was like
being buzzed by lots of bats, but if we stopped moving they settled down. Once lunch was
finished we pottered slowly upstream, seeing Green Kingfisher, female Orange-breasted Bunting,
and flushing a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl. Asclepias mexicana was in flower in a fallow field. More
butterflies – now we were finding lots and lots of the White-rayed Pixies, but with them was also a
few of the more strikingly marked (with gold) Red-bordered Pixie. Flowering plants by the stream
continued to yield skippers and crescents such as Mexican and Black.
For the last part of the day we moved just another kilometre or so down to the old village of Santo
Tomas. This lies next to the reservoir which swallowed much of the village. The church tower still
sticks up above what is now mud rather than water. There were plenty of egrets and vultures out
on the 'reservoir'. We parked up under a huge spreading fig tree next to the bar in what is lft of the
village. Above us we immediately found the Rufous-crowned Motmot by simply looking at the
spot we saw it in last year, and hey presto! We also trained the 'scope on some nice plants of the
yellow flowered orchid Oncidium cebolleta? Several of us went on a walk up through the village and
into a little valley where we hoped to find the stunning Orange-breasted Bunting. No luck this
year but we did spot Happy Wren, Rufous-chested Sparrow, and a Laughing Falcon who landed
up the slope and treated us to great 'scope views. We went on to find many of the orchid (with
Marge's help) and also the little bromeliad Tillandsia iodantha though none of the latter were in
flower. There were several trees of interest here too including one covered in tiny flowers that
sprang straight out of the branches. Even though the sun was getting low there were still plenty of
butterflies with clouds of little yellows as we walked under the mangos. Hook-line Ur-Satyr was
new and we saw a bunch of skippers that included Turquoise Longtail, Rusty-mottled Skipper,
White-patched Skipper, Teleus Longtail and Violet-patched Skipper feeding in Wigandia flowers.
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It was nearly six so time to go, we arrived back at the hotel at just after seven and had time to get
ourselves ready for dinner. This was very good, but perhaps most memorable for Eric's
demonstration of the art if Tequila drinking. This was prefaced by a description of how the whole
Tequila making thing came about and how the local populace had a tequila god – a rabbit in fact!
The stories over Eric then showed us how to appreciate the various nuances of different tequilas
and how to drink it the Mexican way (so not lime and salt, which is the American way...). Much
tequila was enjoyed and it was a lively evening...
Day 14
th
February 18
Temascaltepec
We met up at seven-fifteen for our trip to the Temascaltepec. We drove through a sleepy Valle de
Bravo and its cobbled streets before the rich and famous had woken. However plenty of the not so
rich and famous were making their way into work so progress through the quaint town was rather
slow! A cycle pilgrimage passed us going the other way, several hundred mostly young men on
bikes. Our first stop was on a high area south of the town where rocky bluffs rose from the pineoak woodland and some cultivation next to a small hamlet. This is quite a birdy spot! We started
with Striped Sparrows and Gray Silkies, then moved on through Greater Pewee and Lincoln's
Sparrow to abundant Lesser Goldfinches. Abundant Violet-green Swallows swept across and over
the bluffs, these adorned with bromeliads. The large basal rosettes are normally topped by redbracted spikes, but this year it was just the basal rosettes. These may have been Hetchia podantha. A
Short-tailed Hawk sailed over the bluffs and fields and several large flocks of Band-tailed Pigeons
flew purposefully eastwards. We could hear Blue Mockingbirds much of the time and Whitetipped Doves. There were plenty of birds in sight though. Bullocks Orioles and Western Tanagers
gobbled up some tasty looking blackberries whilst on the pine behind was a Graceful Warbler and
at least three smart Mexican Gray Squirrels. Our first hummingbird was a Berylline,
hummingbirds are normally varied and common here, but this, and a lovely Mexican Woodnymph
were all we saw this morning. Our first butterfly was a new one for the trip, a White-rayed Patch,
and we saw several more over the next few minutes. There were a couple of fabulous Two-tailed
Swallowtails coursing back and forth and we found them at ease on a couple of hibiscus bushes,
these making a fabulous colour combination – purple and yellow. We came to the edge of a tree
nursery where Nigel spotted a group of seven White-rayed Patches but this was nothing compared
with what we found down by a cobbled stream crossing. For though it was dry it was covered in
butterflies. Almost all of them were White-rayed Patches, at least fifty of them, scattered across the
surface, singles and small groups posing with wings open or circling each other. They were very
busy with whatever it was they liked about this spot as they allowed our lenses to within
millimetres of them! There was also a Brown-spotted Greenstreak here. Hammond's Flycatcher,
Slate-throated Redstart, White-striped Woodcreeper and two very chatty Rufous-capped Warblers
were in the vegetation just above this spot whilst below I saw Crescent-chested Warbler, Whitethroated Thrush and more tanagers and orioles. Walking back to the minivan a Magnificent
Swallowtail sailed along the track.
The views of seventeen-thousand foot plus Volcan Toluca were wonderful as we descended to the
valley floor and the small town of Temascaltepec. Here we headed up a side road, stopping a few
kilometres above the town and walked slowly downhill for a couple of hours before Ivan picked us
up again.
The steep and sometimes cliffy inner edge of the road obviously had regular moisture and this
resulted in a great variety of plants. Most striking were the three Melamostomacious sub-shrubs,
Monochaetum calcaratum with pinky-purple flowers 3cm across, the spires of white with a hint of
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pink blooms of an unknown Tibouchia, and Tibouchia scabriscula with delicate pink blooms.
Amongst Cheilanthes and other small ferns and lots of dried Selaginella we found tiny blue and
white Lobelias and the impressive leaf rosettes of Pinguicula moranensis, these holding innumerable
tiny insects captive. Calceolaria mexicana grew in damp areas alongside a tiny blue Lobelia. Salvias
were appearing, here lavanduloides, polystachya and prunelloides. Across the road the trees were
festooned in ferns, tillandsias and orchids. There were Encylcias, but not in bloom, whereas some
trees held fine flowering spikes of yellow Oncidium cavendishianum. Lower down, the roadside
trees were draped in the spectacular purple trumpets of the climber Cobaea scandens.
It was very warm and sunny and there were plenty of butterflies about. There were a good number
of Mexican, Black and Texan Crescents about and all sorts of yellows and whites; Lyside Sulphurs,
Apricot Sulphurs, Cloudless Sulphurs, Green-eyed Whites and huge White-Angled Sulphurs. A
few Two-tailed Swallowtails flapped past and there was a wonderful Magnificent Swallowtail who
posed well for Nigel. Down by the river a Polythrix skipper settled on the mud whilst across the
river a Golden-crowned Emerald hummingbird was seen. Yet another Fantastic Skipper was seen.
Down the road a way we came across a De la Maza's Mimic-White perched up on a willow. A gully
that led up to a rocky fall held plenty of a flowering Begonia and also the stunning Anodis cristata.
We continued uphill a short distance in the vehicle stopping again by the small river and here we
took our picnic below a weir – Real de Arribida is one many small former mining communities in
the area with much human made elements to the landscape even where one least expects them. An
American Dipper flew up and landed on the weir, Strangely Monarchs flew up and down the
river, but there was little else butterfly-wise. A fabulous red Salvia flowered by the stream-sides.
Just three hundred metres uphill are damp tracksides where we usually find the Orange-striped
Eighty—eight though sadly we were out of luck today. Having said that we couldn't fail to enjoy
the Creamy Stripestreak perched up nor the variousYellows mud-puddling with the Juno
Heliconian. However it was the Two—tailed Swallowtail that really took the plaudits here as it sat
for photographs unmoved even when my lens was close enough to touch. Full-frame wide-angle is
an interesting perspective on such a large and spectacular butterfly.
It was already mid-afternoon but there was still time to explore. We tried a road up into the pineoak woodlands from Temascaltepec and stopped by a kind of outdoor centre that was empty of
customers today. A boulder-filled river flowed through the property and alongside it were trees
draped with a huge Bromeliad. There was also a little of an Encyclia species in flower here, this one
with almost completely brown flowers. There was also a nice grape-fern Anemia karwinskyana, plus
two species of Eryngium, Heimia salicifolia, and a pretty lilac cupidone-like species in flower. Black
Phoebes were seen along the watercourse. There were a few butterflies too including Soldier, Gulf
Fritillary and Common Buckeye. Then it was back to Rancho las Margaritas and an hour to relax
before dinner which tonight featured a turkey, lentil and ham soup followed by tacos and sopas for
the main course.
Day 15
th
February 19
University of Mexico Botanical Garden
I went down into the pine forests below the hotel at dawn and spent an hour and a half seeing
some of the rich variety of birds that are found here. The first three birds I saw were new for the
trip! I started with a Brown Creeper, backed this up with two Pygmy Nuthatches, and then
watched a stunning Bridled Tit. As the sun touched the tops of the pines things became very active
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and warblers were everywhere. Notable were Grace's Warblers (several), Black-throated Gray
Warbler, Olive Warbler and two fabulous Painted Redstarts. Two Rufous-backed Thrushes were
seen and also there were great views of an Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush. Hepatic Tanagers
looked fabulous in the sun. Back out into the open fields below the hotel there were Rustycrowned Ground-Sparrows and a Pine Flycatcher.
Eric cooked the breakfast to order in the restaurant – superb! As Ivan loaded the van a flock of
Mexican Jays flew over.
We set off at a quarter to ten, gaining height gradually through the beautiful landscapes that typify
this land. Eventually we reached the more open country around Toluca, and there got on the cuota
to Mexico City, the two and a quarter hour journey marked by security near Toluca where Obama
had just landed and by a never-ending cycle pilgrimage which was using the hard shoulder. This
was attended by various vehicles including one made up to look like a castle. This didn’t really
slow us down, but certainly provided much of interest! We had two and a half hours to explore the
University Botanical Garden. A series of paths takes one through a landscape of shattered lava, so
with hollows (some filled with ponds) and dells, cavelets and crevices, and planted over the couple
of acres that is the main garden, are an abundance of succulents. There were all sorts of cacti, from
giant Barrel Cactus to Cardon and Lemairocereus, down through variously shaped Prickly Pears to
squat Mamillarias. Some of the latter had flowers, pink, cerise and orange blooms noted! There
were also plenty of Agaves, Notholirions and a spectacular Ocotillo or Boojum Tree, a plant of the
northwestern deserts that takes plant architecture to new and bizarre levels. There were plenty of
Echevarias too, some fine orange-red ones in flower, and lots of Crassulaceae. It was great to see that
a lot of work has taken place in recent years, the whole place had been tidied up and there were
lots of new plantings and quite a decent number of plants labelled. Crevice Spiny Lizards were
well camouflaged on the dark grey rocks and there were terrapins in the ponds, these Red-eared
Sliders and not native. Damselflies flitted about the pools whilst every now and again fine Twotailed Swallowtails sailed past. We found a number of the prettily marked Xami Hairstreaks, the
bright green undersides patterned with black, white and silver. There were plenty of birds about,
mostly Yellow-rumped Warblers and House Finches. A Berylline Hummingbird posed in the sun
and both Amethyst—throated Hummingbird and a Curve-billed Thrasher were seen. Two-tailed
Swallowtails were seen frequently but we didn't find anywhere where they were settling. Gulf
Fritillary, Dainty Sulphur and Cassius Blue were other butterflies noted.
We all gathered by the shop, which sold a wide range of gifts including a range of products made
from various succulents in the garden. Then the team took us to a restaurant en route to the airport
and introduced us to Pozole. These are soups based on a local type of corn. The corn is huge in size
and have a nice texture. The soups were meals in themselves and Eric also laid on various starters
that included some wonderful pork crackling with a guacamole dip. Puddings looked nice but I
was too full! Fast food but very good food. Then it was off to the airport
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Systematic List Number 1
Butterflies
Nomenclature and taxonomic order taken from Butterflies of Mexico and Central America
(Glassberg 2007). The number of days a species was seen is indicated as 5/14 – so five days out of
the 14 in the field (arrival day and landing day at end not included). 2014 only. Many thanks to
Nigel Sawyer for additional species.
Papilionidae
Polydamus Swallowtail
Variable Cattleheart
Pink-spotted Cattleheart
Magnificent Swallowtail
Two-tailed Swallowtail
Batus polydamus
Parides erithalion
Parides photinus
Papilio garamus
Papilio multicaudatus
Arroyo Frio and Santo Tomas. 2/14
Los Asmoles
El Fuego
Mil Cumbres & Temascaltepec. 2/13
Temascaltepec
Pereute charops
Pieriballia viardi
Catasticta nimbice
Catasticta fisca
Catasticta teutila
Hesperocharis graphites
Leptophobia aripa
Appias drusilla
Pontia protodice
Ascia monuste
Kricogonia lyside
Anteos clorinde
Anteos maerula
Phoebis sennae
Phoebis philea
Phoebis argante
Phoebis neocypris
Colias eurytheme
Colias cesonia
Enantia jethys
Enantia mazai
Lieinix nemesis
Eurema daira
Eurema salome
Eurema proterpia
Eurema mexicana
Eurema nicippe
Eurema nise
Eurema lisa
Nathalis iole
El Fuego
Arroyo Frio
widely scattered. 5/14
1 at the gold mine Tlalpujahua
5+ at the gold mine Tlalpujahua
scattered. 2/14
scattered. 4/14
Arroyo Frio
Chapala
scattered throughout. 4/14
scattered. 4/14
scattered throughout. 7/14
Laguna Maria area. 2/14
widespread. 10/14
scattered throughout. 6/14
scattered. 3/14
Arroyo Frio
scattered. 3/14
El Fuego
Colorines (Nigel)
Temascaltepec
Laguna Maria
locally common. 9/14
scattered. 3/14
locally frequent. 4//14
Temascaltepec
Arroyon Frio and Santo Tomas. 2/14
scattered. 3/14
Arroyo Frio & Temascaltepec
scattered. 2/14
Xami Hairstreak
Callophrys xami
Brown Greenstreak
Brown-spotted Greenstreak
Creamy Stripe-Streak
Mexican Elfstreak
Cyanophrys fusius
Cyanophrys longula
Arawacus jada
Laothus erybathis
common in the University Botanical
Garden, D.F.
Chapala
Nevado de Colima & Temascaltepec. 2/14
Santo Tomas & Temascaltepec. 2/14
Nevado de Colima
Pieridae
Surprising White
Painted White
Mexican Dartwhite
Narrow-banded Dartwhite
Golden-banded Dartwhite
Black-pointed Tilewhite
Common Greeneyed-White
Florida White
Checkered White
Great Southern White
Lyside Sulphur
White Angled-Sulphur
Orange Angled-Sulphur
Cloudless Sulphur
Orange-barred Sulphur
Apricot Sulphur
Tailed Sulphur
Orange Sulphur
Southern Dogface
Bold Mimic-White
De la Maza's Mimic-White
Frosted Mimic-White
Barred Yellow
Salome Yellow
Tailed Orange
Mexican Yellow
Sleepy Orange
Mimosa Yellow
Little Yellow
Dainty Sulphur
Lycaenidae
Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 24
Sky-blue Greatstreak
Tiger-eye Hairstreak
Gold-banded Hairstreak
Yojoa Scrub-Hairstreak
Broken-M Hairstreak
Orange-crescent Groundstreak
Blotchy Hairstreak
Burnt Chocolate Hairstreak
Ceraunus Blue
Reakirt's Blue
Spring Azure
Eastern Tailed Blue
Cassius Blue
Marine Blue
Acmon Blue
Pseudolycaena damo
Rekoa meton
Rekoa palegon
Strymon yojoa
Parhassius polibetes
Ziegleria guzanta
Michaelus hecate
Theclopsis mycon
Hemiargus ceraunus
Hemiargus isola
Celastrina ladon
Everes comyntas
Leptotes cassius
Leptotes marina
Plebejus acmon
Arroyo Frio
Arroyo Frio
Colorines
?probably this species Colorines (Nigel)
1 Nevado de Colima
1 Nevado de Colima
Colorines
Arroyo Frio (Nigel)
frequent. 6/14
scattered. 2/14
Temascaltepec
scattered. 3/14
Arroyo Frio & Mexico City
Arroyo Frio
Rancho los Cedros
White-rayed Pixie
Melanis cephise
Red-bordered Pixie
Black-patched Bluemark
Melanis pixe
Lasaia agesilas
Walker's Metalmark
Fatal Metalmark
Falcate Metalmark
Zela Metalmark
Vera Cruz Tanmark
Apodemia walkeri
Calephelis nemesis
Emesis tenedia
Emesis zela
Emesis vulpina
several above Temascaltepec was a trip
highlight. Also noted Colorines. 2/14
3 Santo Tomas and Colorines
stunning! Singles south of Chapala and
Arroyo Frio. 2/14
a crescent mimic. Colorines
El Fuego
scattered. 3/14
a female at the gold mine Tlalpujahua
Colorines (probably this species) (Nigel)
Riodinidae
Nymphalidae
Gulf Fritillary
Variegated Fritillary
Mexican Silverspot
Tropical Leafwing
Pale-spotted Leafwing
Juno Heliconian
Julia Heliconian
Zebra Heliconian
Mexican Heliconian
White-rayed Patch
Agraulis vanillae
Euptoieta claudia
Dione moneta
Anaea aidea
Anaea pithyusa
Dione juno
Dryas iulia
Heliconius charithonia
Heliconius hortense
Chlosyne ehrenbergii
Bordered Patch
Theona Checkerspot
Elada Checkerspot
Orange-patch Crescent
Mylitta Crescent
Texan Crescent
Ardent Crescent
Chlosyne lacinia
Chlosyne theona
Texola elada
Phyciodes drusilla
Phyciodes mylitta
Phyciodes texana
Phyciodes ardys
Mexican Crescent
Pale-banded Crescent
Black Crescent
Texan Crescent
Elf
Common Buckeye
Phyciodes pallescens
Phyciodes tulcis
Phyciodes ptolyca
Phyciodes texana
Microtia elva
Junonia coenia
scattered. 3/14
1 at Laguna Maria and noted at Santo Tomas
widespread. 8/14
Nevado de Colima
Arroyo Frio
scattered. 4/14
frequent in warmer areas. 4/14
frequent in warmer areas. 6/14
scattered inColima area. 3/14
a large group of 60+ near Temascaltepec – a
tour highlight
Arroyo Frio
Laguna Maria (Nigel)
Laguna Maria and Jiquilpan area
Laguna Maria
Cerro Burro, also Colorines
Jiquilpan area, also Laguna Maria
frequent Colima area, also noted Rancho los
Cedros. 4/14
Santo Tomás, Temascaltepec etc
El Fuego
scattered. 2/14
scattered. 2/14
Los Asmoles
scattered throughout. 4/14
Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 25
Mangrove Buckeye
West Coast Lady
American Lady
Mourning Cloak
Junonia evarete
Vanessa annabella
Vanessa virginiensis
Nymphalis antiopa
Banded Peacock
White Peacock
Splendid Mapwing
Rusty-tipped Page
Malachite
Leading Red-ring
White-patched Eight-eight
Anna's Eighty-eight
Red-rim
Orange Banner
Variable Cracker
Anartia fatima
Anartia jatrophae
Hypanartia godmanii
Siproeta epaphus
Siproeta stelenes
Pyrrhogyra neaerea
Diaethria bacchis
Diaethria anna
Biblis hyperia
Temenis laothoe
Hamadryas feronia
Blomfild’s Beauty
Ruddy Daggerwing
Many-banded Daggerwing
Blackened Bluewing
Silver Emperor
Spot-celled Sister
Eyed Sister
Confusing Sister
White Morpho
Smyrna blomfildia
Marpesia petreus
Marpesia chiron
Myscelia cyananthe
Doxocopa laure
Adelpha basiloide
Adelpha paroeca
Adelpha iphicloeola
Morpho polyphemos
Two-spotted Prepona
Feathered Prepona
Orange Owlet
Mexican Ur-Satyr
Hook-lined Ur-Satyr
Stubby Gemmed-Satyr
Stormy Satyr
Cloud-forest Monarch
Queen
Archaeoprepona demophoon
Prepona laertes
Opsiphanes boisduvalii
Taygetis weymeri
Taygetis uncinata
Cyllopsis windi
Cissia similis
Anetia thirza
Danaus gilippus
Soldier
Monarch
Tiger Mimic-Queen
Brown-rimmed Clearwing
Thick-tipped Greta
Danaus eresimus
Danaus plexippus
Lycorea cleobaea
Pteronymia rufocincta
Greta morgana
Pacific Coast – mangroves!
1 Sierra Chincua
scattered. 3/14
our Camberwell Beauty. Widely
scattered – 12+ on one day alone! 5/14
scattered throughout. 4/14
warmer areas. 7/14
1 Laguna Maria
2 at Arroyo Frio and 1 Mil Cumbres
warmer areas. 4/14
Arroyo Frio
noted Laguna Maria & Mil Cumbres
1 at Colorines
1 El Fuego and 1 Arroyo Frio
1 Arroyo Frio and several Santo Tomás
this species, or Guatemalan Cracker
Hamadryas guatemelana – 1 seen at Santo
Tomas
Arroyo Frio
Arroyo Frio & Santo Tomas
1 at Santo Tomas
Los Asmoles
Laguna Maria & Arroyo Frio. 2/14
single Los Asmoles & Nevado de Colima
Colorines (Nigel)
Laguna Maria
several at Los Armoles dry forest, several
also at Arroyo Frio and several in the Santo
Tomás area. 3/14
single at Arroyo Frio
single at Arroyo Frio
probably seen at Arroyo Frio
Santo Tomas
1 Santo Tomas
Laguna Maria
locally common Santo Tomas
a rare species. Nevado de Colima
Valle de Bravo and below. 2/14. A Monarch
mimic
scattered. 3/14. A Monarch mimic
Quite a few MILLION!
2 at Arroyo Frio
Laguna Maria (just the one...)
Laguna Maria and Arroyo Frio. Common
along streams at both
Hesperidae
Two-barred Flasher
Teal Beamer
Rusty Mottled Skipper
White-patched Skipper
Mexican Longtail
Dorantes Longtail
Brown Longtail
Astraptes fulgerator
Phocides urania
Codatractus carlos
Chiomara asychis
Polythrix mexicanus
Urbanus dorantes
Urbanus procne
1 Arroyo Frio and several Santo Tomas
stunning! Colorines
1 Santo Tomas
Santo Tomas
Temascaltepec
Santo Tomas
Temascaltepec
Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 26
Plain Longtail
Teleus Longtail
Turquoise Longtail
Falcate Skipper
Glazed Pellicia
Rounded Bolla
Variegated Skipper
Texas Powdered Skipper
Coyote Cloudywing
Jalapus Cloudywing
Funeral Duskywing
Fritzgaertner's Flats
Urbanus simplicius
Urbanus teleus
Urbanus evona
Spathilepia clonius
Pellicia arina
Bolla imbras
Gorythion begga
Systasea pulverulenta
Achalarus toxeus
Achalarus jalapus
Erynnis funeralis
Celaenorrhinus fritzgaertneri
Common Checkered Skipper
Tropical Checkered Skipper
Turk’s-cap White-Skipper
Laviana White-Skipper
Erichson's White-Skipper
Sachem
Fantastic Skipper
Common Mellana
Bold Faceted Skipper
Rita's Remella
Violet-patched Skipper
Chestnut-marked Skipper
Alkali Skipper
Ocola Skipper
Southern Skipperling
Common Glassywing
Lesser Glassywing
Olive-clouded Skipper
Pyrgus communis
Pyrgus oileus
Heliopetes macaira
Heliopetes laviana
Heliopetes domicella
Atalopedes campestris
Vettius fantasos
Quasimellana eulogius
Synapptes syraces
Remella rita
Monca tyrtaeus
Thespieus macarius
Panoquina ocola
Copaeodes minimus
Pomeius pompeius
Lerodea dysaules
1 Nevado de Colima
1 Santo Tomas
Santo Tomas
Colorines
Santo Tomas
El Fuego
Colorines (Nigel)
Los Asmoles (Nigel)
Arroyo Frio (Nigel)
Los Asmoles (Nigel)
Temascaltepec
?probably this species. 200 or so roosting in
a cave near Santo Tomas
Jiquilpan area
widely scattered
Arroyo Frio
Arroyo Frio (Nigel)
Arroyo Frio (Nigel)
scattered Valle de Bravo area. 2/14
widely scattered. 5/14
Santo Tomas
Santo Tomas
El Fuego
Santo Tomas
Cerro Burro
Chapala and Temascaltepec
Santo Tomas
scattered
scattered throughout
Los Asmoles (Nigel)
Temascaltepec (Nigel)
Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 27
Systematic List Number 2
Birds
Nomenclature and taxonomic order follows The Sibley Guide to Birds (2000) and Howell and
Webb’s ‘A Guide to the Birds of Mexico’ (1995). The number of days a species was seen is indicated
as 5/14 – so five days out of the 14 in the field (arrival day and landing day at end not included).
2014 only.
Itinerary
Day 2 February 6th
Day 3 February 7th
Day 4 February 8th
Day 5 February 9th
Day 6 February 10th
Day 7 February 11th
Day 8 February 12th
Day 9 February 13th
Day 10 February 14th
Day 11 February 15th
Day 12 February 16th
Day 13 February 17th
Day 14 February 18th
Day 15 February 19th
Laguna Maria
Laguna Maria, Los Asmoles dry forest, Boca de Apria & Playa Mezcala
Laguna Maria & Volcan Fuego
Volcan Nevado de Colima & Zapotlán Lake
to Pátzcuaro via Uruapan
Cerro Burro & Tzintzuntzán
Tacámbaro, Arroyo Frio & Pátzcuaro Lake
Lago Cuitzeo. Morelia & Mil Cumbres – to Tlalpujahua
Sierra Chincua Monarch Reserve
El Rosario
Tlalpujahua & Rancho de los Cedros & to Valle de Bravo
Santo Tomás de los Plátanos & Colorines. Rancho las Margaritas
Temascaltepec & Ranchos los Pinos
to Mexico City & the University Botanical Garden
Clark’s Grebe
Eared Grebe
Pied-billed Grebe
Least Grebe
Magnificent Frigatebird
Aechmophorus clarkii
Podiceps nigricollis
Podilymbus podiceps
Tachybaptus dominicus
Fregata magnificens
American White Pelican
Pelecanus erythrorhynchos
Brown Pelican
Neotropic Cormorant
Double-crested Cormorant
Anhinga
Black-crowned Night Heron
Yellow-crowned Night Heron
Cattle Egret
Green-backed Heron
Snowy Egret
Little Blue Heron
Reddish Egret
Tricolored Heron
Great Egret
Great Blue Heron
White-faced Ibis
White Ibis
Pelecanus occidentalus
Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Phalacrocorax auritus
Anhinga anhinga
Nycticorax nycticorax
Nyctanassa violacea
Bubulcus ibis
Butorides virescens
Egretta thula
Egretta caerulea
Egretta rufescens
Egretta tricolor
Carcharodius albus
Ardea herodias
Plegadis chihi
Eudocimus albus
Wood Stork
Fulvous Whistling Duck
Black-bellied Whistling Duck
Mexican Duck
Mycteria americana
Dendrocygna bicolor
Dendrocygna autumnalis
Anas platyrhynchos diazi
Gadwall
Green-winged Teal
Anas strepera
Anas crecca
30+ Lago Cuitzeo
10+ Lago Cuitzeo
both days at Laguna Maria
Laguna Maria
several at both Playa Mezcala and at
Boca de Apria
noted at several wetlands – huge numbers
along the shore of Chapala. 6/14
noted at Boca de Apria & Playa Mezcala
locally abundant. 2/14
several on the Pacific coast
1 on the Pacific coast
scattered throughout. 5/14
several at Boca de Apria
widespread. 9/14
Pacific coast and Lago Cuitzeo. 2/14
scattered. 3/14
several along the coast
several on the coast
several on the coast and 1 Pátzcuaro. 2/14
widespread at wetlands. 8/14
scattered. 6/14
scattered. 2/14
only noted at Boca de Apria & Playa
Mezcala
1 at Zapotlán
Lago Cuitzeo
c.20 at Zapotlán
1 at Zapotlán Lake, also at Lago Cuitzeo.
2/14
noted at various wetlands. 3/14
only noted at Zapotlán
Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 28
American Wigeon
Northern Pintail
Northern Shoveler
Blue-winged Teal
Cinnamon Teal
Ruddy Duck
Black Vulture
Turkey Vulture
White-tailed Kite
Snail Kite
Anas americana
Anas acuta
Anas clypeata
Anas discors
Anas cyanoptera
Oxyrua jamaicensis
Coragyps atratus
Cathartes aura
Elanus leucurus
Rostrhamus sociabilis
Northern Harrier
Sharp-shinned Hawk
Cooper’s Hawk
Common Black Hawk
Gray Hawk
Roadside Hawk
Zone-tailed Hawk
Short-tailed Hawk
White-tailed Hawk
Red-tailed Hawk
Osprey
Crested Caracara
Laughing Falcon
American Kestrel
Merlin
Peregrine Falcon
West Mexican Chachalaca
Circus cyaneus
Accipiter striatus
Accipiter cooperii
Buteogallus anthracinus
Buteo nitidus
Buteo magnirostris
Buteo albonotatus
Buteo brachyurus
Buteo albicaudatus
Buteo jamaicensis
Pandion haliaetus
Caracara plancus
Herpetotheres cachinnans
Falco sparverius
Falco columbarius
Falco peregrinus
Ortalis poliocephala
Sora Rail
Purple Gallinule
Common Moorhen
American Coot
Grey Plover
Killdeer
Semipalmated Plover
American Avocet
Black-necked Stilt
Northern Jacana
Whimbrel
Greater Yellowlegs
Lesser Yellowlegs
Willet
Spotted Sandpiper
Short-billed Dowitcher
Long-billed Dowitcher
Western Sandpiper
Least Sandpiper
Franklin’s Gull
Laughing Gull
Ring-billed Gull
Herring Gull
Porzana carolina
Porphyrula martinica
Gallinula chloropus
Fulica americana
Pluvialis squatarola
Charadrius vociferous
Charadrius semipalmatus
Recurvirostra americana
Himantopus mexicanus
Jacana spinosa
Numenius phaeopus
Tringa melanoleuca
Tringa flavipes
Catoptrophorus semipalmatus
Actitis macularia
Limnodromus griseus
Limnodromus scolopaceus
Calidris mauri
Calidris minutilla
Larus pipixican
Larus atricilla
Larus delawarensis
Larus argenteus
only noted at Pátzcuaro Lake
only noted at Lago Cuitzeo
most wetlands. 4/14
most wetlands. 3/14
lowland wetlands. 2/14
several at Lago Cuitzeo
widespread and common. 11/14
widespread and common. 11/14
1 near Zapotlán
1 at Playa Mezcala. This is an odd
record of this distinctive raptor as they are
500km north of their known range on the
Pacific Slope! Fifth year running, so
presumably resident.
a female at Pátzcuaro Lake
1 El Fuego
singles noted twice
2 circling over Laguna Maria
frequent in the Laguna Maria area. 4/14
lowlands. 2/14
lowlands. 2/14
1 near Temascaltepec
an immature near Colorines
frequent. 6/14
2 Laguna Maria
mainly Colima area. 3/14
1 El Fuego and 1 near Colorines. 2/14
widespread. 10/14
1 Laguna Maria
singles El Fuego and Mil Cumbres
frequent in the Colima area, though
more often heard than seen. 3(seen)/14
singles at Playa Mezcala and Zapotlán. 2/14
several at Playa Mezcala
most wetlands. 3/14
widespread at wetlands. 11/14
several on the beach at Boca de Apria
scattered. 3/14
2 on the beach at Boca de Apria
2 at Boca de Apria and 2 Zapotlán. 2/14
locally frequent at larger wetlands. 3/14
various wetlands. 2/14
several at Playa Mezcala & Boca de Apria
several at Boca de Apria
several at Boca de Apria
frequent at Boca de Apria & Playa Mezcala
scattered. 3/14
?probably this species at Boca de Apria
quite a few at Zapotlán
several on the coast
several on the coast
common on the coast
Zapotlán and Lago Cuitzeo
Zapotlán and Valle de Bravo
2 on the coast
Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 29
California Gull
Larus californicus
Royal Tern
Sterna maxima
Elegant Tern
Sterna elegans
Caspian Tern
Sterna caspia
Common Tern
Sterna hirundo
Rock Dove
Columba livia
Band-tailed Pigeon
Columba fasciata
Mourning Dove
Zenaida macroura
White-winged Dove
Zenaida asiatica
Inca Dove
Columbina inca
Common Ground-Dove
Columbina passerina
White-tipped Dove
Leptoptila verreauxi
Orange-fronted Parakeet
Aratinga canicularis
Squirrel Cuckoo
Piaya cayana
Lesser Roadrunner
Geococcyx velox
Groove-billed Ani
Crotophaga sulcirostris
Barn Owl
Tyto alba
Mottled Owl
Strix virgata
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl
Glaucidium brasilianum
Pauraque
Nyctidromus albicollis
Eared Poorwill
Nyctiphrynus mcleodii
Mexican Whip-poor-will
Caprimulgus arizonae
Buff-collared Nightjar
Caprimulgus ridgwayi
Vaux’s Swift
Chaetura vauxi
White-throated Swift
Aeronautes saxatalis
Green Violet-ear
Colibri thalssinus
Golden-crowned Emerald
Chlorostilbon auriceps
Broad-billed Hummingbird
Cynanthus latirostris
Dusky Hummingbird
Cynanthus sordidus
Mexican Woodnymph
Thalurania ridgwayi
White-eared Hummingbird
Basilinna leuctois
Berylline Hummingbird
Amazilia beryllina
Violet-crowned Hummingbird Amazilia violiceps
Sparkling-tailed Woodstar
Philodice dupontii
Amethyst-throated Hummingbird Lampornis amethystinus
Magnificent Hummingbird
Eugenes fulgens
Lucifer Hummingbird
Ruby-throated Hummingbird
Black-chinned Hummingbird
Broad-tailed Hummingbird
Rufous/Allen’s Hummingbird
Mountain Trogon
Elegant Trogon
Russet-crowned Motmot
Green Kingfisher
Ringed Kingfisher
Belted Kingfisher
Acorn Woodpecker
Golden-cheeked Woodpecker
Calothorax lucifer
Archilochus colubris
Archilochus alexandri
Selasphorus platycercus
Selasphorus rufus/sasin
Trogon mexicanus
Trogon elegans
Momotus mexicanus
Chloroceryle americana
Ceryle torquata
Ceryle alycon
Melanerpes formicivorus
Centurus chrysogenys
Ladder-backed Woodpecker
Smoky-brown Woodpecker
Ivory-billed Woodcreeper
Picoides scalaris
Veniliornis fumigatus
Xiphorhynchus flavigaster
2 on the coast
a few at Boca de Apria & Playa Mezcala
several at Boca de Apria
several on the coast
a few at Boca de Apria & Playa Mezcala
only noted in Tlalpujahua?!
100+ near Temascaltepec
scattered. 2/14
Los Asmoles and Laguna Maria. 2/14
Locally common. 12/14
Laguna Maria
often heard, but just 1 seen at Laguna Maria
Colima Airport
Laguna Maria and Arroyo Frio. 2/14
2 above Laguna Maria
uncommon this year. 2/14
1 Pátzcuaro Lake
heard nightly Laguna Maria
Rancho las Margaritas
1 at Laguna Maria on a night walk
heard above Rancho las Margaritas
heard above Rancho las Margaritas
singles twice at night at Lagina Maria
El Fuego
Colorines Waterfall
1 at Cerro Burro and 2 at El Rosario. 2/14
1 Temascaltepec
widely scattered. 6/14
1 at Arroyo Frio
1 Temascaltepec
frequent in the highlands. 7/14
widespread in lowlands. 4/14
Arroyo Frio
2 males below Santo Tomas
singles Laguna Maria & Nevado de Colima.
2/14
several Nevdao de Colima and Cerro Burro.
2/14
Lago Cuitzeo
scattered. 3/14
Nevado de Colima & Cerro Burro. 2/14
scattered. 4/14
Laguna Maria and Lago Cuitzeo
1 El Fuego
1 Laguna Maria
1 Santo Tomás – same tree as last year!
widely scattered. 4/14
1 Pacific Coast
Pacific Coast and Pátzcuaro. 2/14
scattered throughout. 4/14
frequent in the Colima area, also noted
Tacámbaro and Colorines. 5/14
frequent Laguna Maria area. 3/14
3+ El Fuego
2 in the Laguna Maria area
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White-striped Woodcreeper
Greenish Elaenia
Tufted Flycatcher
Cassin’s Kingbird
Western Kingbird
Thick-billed Kingbird
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Ash-throated Flycatcher
Nutting’s Flycatcher
Brown—crested Flycatcher
Great Kiskadee
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Social Flycatcher
Western Wood-Pewee
Olive-sided Flycatcher
Greater Pewee
Black Phoebe
Vermilion Flycatcher
Bright-rumped Attila
Least Flycatcher
Pine Flycatcher
Lepidocolaptes leucogastor
Mysiopagis viridicata
Mitrephanes phaeocercus
Tyrannus vociferans
Tyrannus verticalis
Tyrannus crassirostris
Myiarchus tuberculifer
Myiarchus cinerascens
Myiarchus nuttingi
Myiarchus tyrannulus
Pitangus sulphuratus
Megarhynchus pitangua
Myiozetetes similis
Contopus sordidulus
Contopus borealis
Contopus pertinax
Sayornis nigricans
Pyrocephalus rubinus
Attila spadiceus
Empidonax minimus
Empidonax affinis
Hammond’s Flycatcher
Cordilleran/
Pacific Slope Flycatcher
Buff-breasted Flycatcher
Gray Flycatcher
Masked Tityra
Rose-throated Beccard
Grey-breasted Jay
Empidonax hammondii
Steller’s Jay
Cyanocitta stelleri
Empidonax difficilis
Empidonax fulvifrons
Empidonax wrightii
Tityra semifasciata
Pachyramphus aglaiae
Aphelocoma ultramarina
Chihuahuan Raven
Corvus cryptoleucus
Raven
Corvus corax
Violet-Green Swallow
Tachycineta thalassina
Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis
Barn Swallow
Hirundo rustica
Mexican Chickadee
Parus sclateri
Bridled Titmouse
Parus wollweberi
Bushtit
Psaltriparus minimus
Brown Creeper
Certhia americana
Pygmy Nuthatch
Sitta pygmaea
Bewick’s Wren
Thryothorus bewickii
Happy Wren
Thryothorus felix
Banded Wren
Thryothorus pleurostictus
Sinaloa Wren
Thryothorus sinaloa
Marsh Wren
Cistothorus palustris
Spotted Wren
Campylorhynchus gularis
Canyon Wren
American Dipper
Golden-crowned Kinglet
Ruby-crowned Kinglet
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Catherpes mexicanus
Cinclus mexicanus
Regulus satrapa
Regulus calendula
Polioptila caerulea
El Fuego & Temascaltepec. 2/14
Laguna Maria
frequent Laguna Maria. 3/14
widespread. 10/14
wetlands. 4/14
locally frequent in lower areas. 4/14
Laguna Maria. 2/14
Los Asmoles
Laguna Maria. 3/14
Lago Cuitzeo
scattered in lower areas. 3/14
Laguna Maria
common at Laguna Maria. 4/14
scattered. 5/14
1 on El Fuego
Temascaltepec
near water. 6/14
Widespread and common. 12/14
1 Los Asmoles
scattered. 2/14
Rancho las Margaritas. There were many
unidentified Empidonax flycatchers
scattered. 4/14
Laguna Maria. 3/14
scattered. 4/14
1 Rancho los Cedros
1 Laguna Maria
a male at Laguna Maria
1 below Rancho las Margaritas and then
later a group there. 2/14
single Cerro Burro and several Sierra
Chincua. 2/14
1 probable over Pátzcuaro
reasonably frequent in higher areas. 6/14
locally common. 8/14
widespread. 11/14
Valle de Bravo area. 3/14
scattered. 4/14
Rancho las Margaritas
scattered. 5/14
2 Rancho las Margaritas
2 Rancho las Margaritas
scattered. 4/14
1 Laguna Maria
1 Santo Tomas
2 Lago Cuitzeo
noted at several wetlands. 3/14
locally common in Colima area, also Santo
Tomas. 3/14
1 Arroyo Frio
1 Colorines and 1 Temascaltepec. 2/14
heard at El Rosario
widespread. 6/14
common. 12/14
Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 31
Eastern Bluebird
Western Bluebird
Brown-backed Solitaire
Sialia sialis
Sialia mexicana
Myadestes occidentalis
locally common. 9/14
Sierra Chincua
Locally common. Heard more often than
seen. 4(seen)/14
Orange-billed
Nightingale-Thrush
Hermit Thrush
White-throated Thrush
Rufous-backed Thrush
American Robin
Blue Mockingbird
Curve-billed Thrasher
Grey Silky
Loggerhead Shrike
Black-capped Vireo
Blue-headed Vireo
Plumbeous Vireo
Cassin's Vireo
Hutton's Vireo
Catharus aurantiirostris
Catharus guttatus
Turdus assimilis
Turdus rufopalliatus
Turdus migratorius
Melanotis caerulescens
Toxostoma curvirostre
Ptilogonys cinereus
Lanius ludovicianus
Vireo atricapillus
Vireo solitarius
Vireo plumbeus
Vireo cassinii
Vireo huttoni
Golden Vireo
Warbling Vireo
Orange-crowned Warbler
Tennessee Warbler
Colima Warbler
Nashville Warbler
Crescent-chested Warbler
Yellow-rumped Warbler
Black-throated Gray Warbler
Townsend’s Warbler
Hermit Warbler
Vireo hypochryseus
Vireo gilvus
Vermivora celata
Vermivora peregrina
Vermivora crissalis
Vermivora ruficapilla
Vermivora superciliosa
Dendroica coronata
Dendroica nigrescens
Dendroica townsendi
Dendroica occidentalis
Grace’s Warbler
Dendroica graciae
Yellow Warbler
Black-and-White Warbler
MacGillivray’s Warbler
Mourning Warbler
Wilson’s Warbler
Northern Waterthrush
Louisiana Waterthrush
Black-polled Yellowthroat
Common Yellowthroat
Red-faced Warbler
Red Warbler
Dendroica petechia
Mniotilita varia
Oporornis tolmiei
Oporornis philadelphia
Wilsonia pusilla
Seiurus noveboracensis
Seiurus motacilla
Geothlypis specios
Geothlypis trichas
Cardellina rubrifrons
Ergaticus ruber
Yellow-breasted Chat
Olive Warbler
Rufous-capped Warbler
Golden-browed Warbler
Slate-throated Redstart
Painted Redstart
Hepatic Tanager
Flame-coloured Tanager
Western Tanager
Icteria virens
Puecedramus taeniatus
Basileuterus rufifrons
Basileuterus belli
Myioborus miniatus
Myioborus pictus
Piranga flava
Piranga bidentata
Piranga ludoviciana
1 Rancho las Margaritas
a strangely pale one at Rancho los Cedros
widely scattered. 6/14
2 Mexico City
locally common in higher areas. 6/14
scattered throughout. 7/14
Valle de Bravo area. 3/14
frequent in the highlands. 4/14
lowlands. 2/14
1 at Laguna Maria
1 at Laguna Maria
1 Santo Tomas
1 Lago Cuitzeo
1 Nevado de Colima & 1 Rancho las
Margaritas. 2//14
scattered in the lowlands. 3/14
widely scattered. 6/14
widely scattered. 5/14
scattered. 2/14
1 Cerro Burro
widespread. 10/14
1 Rancho las Margaritas
Widespread and common. 12/14
scattered. 4/14
widely scattered in forest. 8/14
singles El Rosario & Rancho las Margaritas.
2/14
1 Colorines, also several Rancho las
Margaritas. 2/14
El Fuego
scattered. 5/14
scattered. 4/14
noted Rancho de los Cedros
widespread and common. 13/14
scattered throughout. 5/14
1 Laguna Maria
3 Pátzcuaro Lake
scattered. 2/14
1 Nevado de Colima
stunning! Widely scattered in the
highlands. 4/14
1 El Fuego
2 Rancho las Margaritas
scattered in Valle de Bravo area. 3/14
El Fuego & Nevado de Colima. 2/14
widespread. 9/14
Laguna Maria & Rancho las Margaritas. 2/14
scattered throughout. 5/14
1 Mil Cumbres
scattered. 3/14
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Black-headed Grosbeak
Pheucticus melanocepahlus
Blue Grosbeak
Guiraca caerulea
Blue Bunting
Cyanocompsa parellina
Painted Bunting
Passerina ciris
Varied Bunting
Passerina versicolor
Indigo Bunting
Passerina cyanea
Lazuli Bunting
Passerina amoena
Rufous-capped Brushfinch
Atlapetes pileatus
Green-striped Brushfinch
Atlapetes virenticeps
Rusty-crowned Ground-Sparrow Melozone kieneri
White-collared Seedeater
Sporophila torqueola
Blue-black Grassquit
Volatinia jacarina
Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer Diglossa baritula
Collared Towhee
Pipilo ocai
Canyon Towhee
Pipilo fuscus
Black-chested Sparrow
Aimophila humeralis
Stripe-headed Sparrow
Aimophila ruficauda
Rusty Sparrow
Striped Sparrow
Sierra Madre Sparrow
Lincoln’s Sparrow
Lark Sparrow
Chipping Sparrow
Clay-colored Sparrow
Yellow-eyed Junco
Meadowlark spp
Yellow-headed Blackbird
Aimophila rufescens
Oriturus superciliosus
Ammodramus baileyi
Melospiza lincolnii
Chondestes grammacus
Spizella passerina
Spizella pallida
Junco phaeonotus
Sturnella spp
Xanthocepahlus xanthocephalus
Red-winged Blackbird
Brown-headed Cowbird
Bronzed Cowbird
Great-tailed Grackle
Hooded Oriole
Streak-backed Oriole
Bullock’s Oriole
Baltimore Oriole
Scott's Oriole
Audobon's Oriole
Orchard Oriole
Yellow-winged Cacique
House Sparrow
Pine Siskin
Black-headed Siskin
Lesser Goldfinch
House Finch
Agelaius phoeniceus
Molothrus ater
Molothrus aeneus
Quiscalus mexicanus
Icterus cucullatus
Icterus pustulatus
Icterus bullocki
Icterus galbula
Icterus parisorum
Icterus graduacauda
Icterus spurius
Cacicus melanicterus
Passer domesticus
Carduelis pinus
Carduelis notata
Carduelis psaltria
Carpodacus mexicanus
widespread. 8/14
locally frequent. 6/14
a female at Los Asmoles
a female Santo Tomas
Laguna Maria area. 4/14
locally frequent. 5/14
El Fuego and Lago Cuitzeo. 2/14
2 Mil Cumbres
2 Nevado de Colima
Widely scattered. 5/14
1 Lago Cuitzeo
1 Arroyo Frio
1 Nevado de Colima
1 El Fuego
frequent in highlands. 8/14
several at Santo Tomás
locally common at Laguna Maria and
Colima area. 4/14
1 Tzintzuntzan
widely scattered in the highlands. 5/14
El Rosario
widespread. 8/14
El Fuego
widely scattered. 5/14
very local this year. 2/14
scattered in the highlands. 3/14
noted Colima and Sayula areas. 2/14
abundant Zapotlán and at Lago Cuitzeo.
2/14
common Zapotlán
common Zapotlán
Pacific Coast
widespread. 10/14
scattered. 2/14
Laguna Maria
widely scattered. 3/14
Santo Tomas
scattered in highlands. 3//14
2 El Fuego and 2 Temascaltepec. 2/14
1 Laguna Maria
Los Asmoles
by habitation. 5/14
Sierra Chincua and El Rosario. 2/14
only seen Santo Tomas this year
scattered. 7/14
widespread. 10/14
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Systematic List Number 3
Flora
Identification, nomenclature and taxonomy are taken from a variety of sources. We are still scratching at the
surface – the flora is very diverse! This is a composite list from 2010 to 2014.
Pteridophyta
Adiantum andicola
Adiantum braunii
Adiantum concinnum
Adiantum poiretti
Adiantum princeps
Adiantum trapeziforme
Anemia karwinskyana
Asplenium monanthes
Asplenium polyphyllum
Asplenium resille
Asplenium soleirolioides
Athyrium bourgaei
Athyrium skinaeri
Blechnum occidentale
Cheilanthes bonariensis
Cheilanthes chaerophylla
Cheilanthes farinosa
Cheilanthes incana
Cheilanthes kaulfussii
Cheilanthes lendigera
Cheilanthes membranacea?
Cystopteris fragilis
Dennstaedtia cicutaria
Dennstaedtia distenta
Diplazium lonchophyllum
Dryopteris maxonii
Dryopteris wallichiana
Elaphoglossum muelleri
Gleichenia bifida
Osmunda regalis
Pellaea cordifolia
Pellara sagittata
Pellaea ternifolia
Pellaea sp
Peltapteris sp
Pleopeltis angustata
Pleopeltis mexicana
Pleopeltis polylepis
Plecosorus speciosissimus
Polypodium fraternatum
Polypodium furfuraceum
Polypodium madrense
Polypodium platylepis
Polypodium polypodioides
widespread in higher forests
Mil Cumbres
Tlalpujahua Gold Mine in 2013
Arroyo Frio
delicate species. Laguna Maria and Tacámbaro
very large species. Arroyo Frio
like a rattlesnake fern but with two arms to fertile fronds. 2014 at the
outdoor restaurant east of Tlalpujahua
Common small fern in the higher forests
Sierra Chincua
Cerro Burro
very tiny pinnate fern! El Fuego
Laguna Maria area
Laguna Maria
Laguna Maria
neatly twice-pinnatifid fern with long fronds to 30cm, common in all
habitats, esp semi-dry oak woodlands. Throughout
above Angangueo
widespread
Tlacotepec & Tlalpujahua
scattered throughout
Sierra Chincua
Brokmman Lakes
above Angangueo, also Rancho de los Cedros and Colorines area
Lower slopes of Nevado de Colima
Uruapan
shiny, twin-sorri fern. Uruapan
El Fuego
like a polystichum! Frequent in the highlands
large entire fronds. Tlacotepec
branched fern. Tacámbaro
Laguna Verde
pretty tri-pinnate maidenhair with rhomboid leaflets. Temascaltepec on
road to Real de Arriba
Rancho de los Cedros
a nice population above the escarpment at Rancho de los Cedros
like a small cordifolia but with oblong leaflets. Rancho de los Cedros
Cerro Burro. Doesn’t seem to be one of the four recorded from the area?
Laguna Maria
roadsides between Angangueo and El Rosario. Also Piedra Herredia &
Rancho de los Cedros
widespread
very scaly fern! Cerro Burro
large rather dry species common Colorines & Temascaltepec
Paricutín
widespread
Arroyo Frio
Uruapan
Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 34
Polystichum distans
Pteridium caudatum
Pteridum feei
Pteris erosa
Pteris orizabae
Tectaria heracleifolia
Thelypteris albicaulis
Thelypteris pilosa
Woodwardia spinulosa
above Angangueo. Also Piedra Herredia & Temascaltepec
Paricutín. Rancho de los Cedros
Also Valle de Bravo area
Temascaltepec
a little like a beech fern. Frequent in the mountains
large fern with a frond like an oakleaf crossed with a hogweed leaf!
Above café at Arroyo Frio
Chapala area
Laguna Verde area
Mil Cumbres. Sierra Chincua
Equisetaceae
Equisetum hyemale
ditches and roadsides above Laguna Maria, also near Temascaltepec
Selaginaceae
Selaginella delicatissima
scattered
Cupressaceae
Cupressus lusitanica
Juniperus deppeana
Juniperus monticola
Brokmann Lakes area. 2014 Valle de Bravo
Tlalpujahua & Mil Cumbres
common in glades at higher levels
Pinaceae
Abies religiosa
Pinus ayacahuite
Pinus hartwegii
Pinus leiophylla
Pinus montezumae
Pinus oocarpa
Pinus pseudostrobus
Oyamel. Locally dominant ‘fir’ at higher levels in all areas
Pátzcuaro area]
Volcan Nevado de Colima & El Rosario. Also Sierra Chincua
highlands
scattered at higher altitudes
common in Valle de Bravo, e.g. above Temascaltepec
Mil Cumbres. Paricutín
Acanthaceae
Justica caudata
blue blepharis-like plant. Santo Tomás & Colorines]
Amaranthaceae
Iresina diffusa
common herb with wands of pale flowers, rather like a meadow-rue
crossed with an Astilbe!
Anacardiaceae
Mangifera indica
Spondia purpurea
Plantations of. Lower areas.
Red Mombin. Pistachia-like pinnate pointed leaves. Fleshy red/pink
flowers. Temascaltepec
Apiaceae
Arracacia atropurpurea
Eryngium alternatum
Eryngium bonplandii
Eryngium carlinae?
Eryngium subacaule
Hydrocotyle umbellata
dark angelica-like species in bud. Cerro Burro
Cerro Burro and near Temascaltepec
tiny bracts! Temascaltepec]
Temascaltepec
Piedra Herredia]
Highlands – damp areas
Apocynaceae
Vinca major
Periwinkle. Scattered
Arialaceae
Oreopanax peltatum
looks like a papaya! Roadsides, widespread
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Oreopanax xalapensis
Lago Cuitzeo, Tlalpujahua and Rancho de los Cedros
Aristolochiaceae
Aristolochia spp
near the waterfall at Colorines. Also Arroyo Frio where a fine longlipped species with dark blotch at the tip. Also near Colima. At least three
species noted
Asclepiadaceae
Asclepias currassavica
Asclepias mexicana
Asclepias sp
Sarcostemma cynanchoides?
orange and yellow milkweed. Widespread
white-pink umbels. Lago Cuitzeo and Brokmann Lakes
other species noted in seed, however one fine plant with large whitepink umbels a little like mexicana but with wide fleshy euphorbia-like leaves
at Colorines was particularly fine
climbing milkweed with balls of creamy flowers. Temascaltepec]
Asteraceae
Acourtia turbinata
Ageratina glabrata
Ageratina marietana
Ageratina glabrata
Baccharis conferta
Barkleyanthus salicifolius
Bellis perennis
Bidens ostruthioides
Bidens triplinervia
Cirsium anartiolepis
Cirsium ehrenbergii
Cirisum subcoriaceum
Cirsium tolucanum
Coreopsis petrophiloides
Cosmos bipinnatus
Dahlia coccinea
Dahlia sorensenii
Dyssodia squamosa
Dyssodia tagetifolia
Gnaphaliothamnus salicifolius
Melampodium divaricatum
Montanoa andersonii
Montanoa bipinnatifida
Montanoa leucantha
pink. Somewhere between knapweed and Catananche. Scattered. 2014 noted
at the outdoor restaurant east of Temascaltepec
glabrous leaves. 2014 El Rosario
pointed leaves. 2014 El Rosario
very pointed leaves. 2014 El Rosario. Several other species present during
the tour
widespread in pine-oak forest
another huge senecio-like shrub with pentagonal leaves. Widespread
scattered
El Rosario. Cerro Burro
scattered
pine/oak woodlands on El Fuego. All these Cirsiums are much more
spectacular than most European species
a large pink thistle in the Sierra Chincua area. Not sure what the similar
species was on Nevado de Colima
widespread in highlands- creamy flowers.
yellow flowered species on Cerro Burro
largish yellow daisy with odd tri-partite leaves. Highlands
scattered. Pink flowers.
orange or yellow flowers. 2014 seen on evado de Colima and near Jiquilpan
in seed. Tall many-headed species. Scattered in the highlands
orange daisy. Laguna Maria]
orange daisy. Common around Laguna Maria, also Lago Cuitzeo. Mil
Cumbres
cudweed. Highlands
Temascaltepec. Yellow ragwort-flowered shrub along roadsides
a tree-daisy. Sierra Chincua]
a tree-daisy. Abundant alongside roads especially Nevado de Colima,
tall, with large variously-shaped leaves, in seed at this season
a tree-daisy. Common El Fuego and Nevado de Colima
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Montanoa tomentosa
Packera sanguisorbae
Psilactis asteroidis
Roldana angulifolia
Roldana barba-johannnis
Roldana lineolata
Rumfordia floribunda
Senecio albonervia
Senecio callosus
Senecio cinerarioides
Senecio cinerophylla
Senecio praecox
Senecio salignus
Senecio stoechachiformis
Senecio toluccanus
Sonchus asper
Sonchus oleraceus
Stevia elatior
Stevia latifolia
Stevia monardifolia
Tagetes lucida
Taraxacum officinale
Tithonia rotundifolia
Verbesina oncophora
Verbesina virgata
Vigiuera sessiliflora
a tree-daisy. Smaller-flowered umbels than other species. Nevado de
Colima
yellow groundsel with pinnate toothed leaves. Sierra Chincua & Cerro
Burro
like a tallish Bellis perennis. Temascaltepec]
large groundsel with distinctive pentagonal leaves. Widespread in
Mountains
widespread in Mountains
Sierra Chincua and elsewhere in the highlands
large tree-daisy with umbels of yellow flowers. Nevado de Colima
Laguna Verde also Sierra Chincua
widespread in the highlands – a purple species
shrub with long narrow silvery leaves common on high pastures at El
Rosario
Laguna Verde
large succulent shrub with white stems and at this season thickened (at the
base) white 'trunks' which are completely leafless but topped with corymbs
of yellow flowers. Colorines
along shores of Chapala, Lago Cuitzeo etc
Nevado de Colima – small, very long narrow white-hairy leaves
oval toothed succulent leaves, stems 30cm high. Sierra Chincua & Cerro
Burro
Prickly Sow-thistle. Arroyo Frio
Smooth Sowthistle. Scattered throughout
Laguna Verde]
Rancho de los Cedros]
widespread
another yellow daisy with shiny pinnate leaves
roadsides
large bright orange-flowered daisy with swollen top to stem. Above
Laguna Maria
common in highland forests
narrow leaves. Common in highland forests
Mil Cumbre]
Balsamaceae
Impatiens wallerana
highlands generally
Begoniaceae
Begonia gracilis
Piedra Herredia where just a few in flower. In 2014 we found some on the
road above Temascaltepec
Betulaceae
Alnus acuminata
Alnus jorullensis
Laguna Verde. Tlalpujahua. Temascaltepec. Riverine
scattered. Not riverine
Bignoniaceae
Campsis radicans
Jacaranda acutifolia
Spathodea campanulata
Tabebuia donell-smithii
Tabebuia palmeri
Tecoma stans
orange trumpets, climber. Uruapan – by the park entrance]
widespread, some in flower, especially around Tacámbaro, Colorines etc
scattered. Large orange-red flowers – e.g. Uruapan]
stunning yellow-flowered tree. Canyon sides near Queseria and Colima
a pink flowered species around Colima and Los Asmoles dry forest
widespread yellow flowered small tree
Bombacaceae
Bombax palmeri
Silk Cotton Tree. Common in dry thorn forest e.g. Santo Tomás area
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Ceiba pentandra
Pseudobombax ellipticum
Silk Cotton Tree. Scattered, fields, roadsides, lower altitudes
Shaving Brush Tree. Leafless with sprays of pink flowers. Laguna Maria
& Santo Tomás. 2014 wasn't in flower
Brassicaceae
Brassica rapa
Cardamine flaccida
Descurainia impatiens
Eruca sativa
widespread
small bittercress in the highlands
Zapotlán]
roadsides
Buddlejaceae
Buddleia cordata
Buddleia sesseliflora
large elliptic leaves. Higher forests – sometimes quite a large tree
locally common in forests
Burseraceae
Bursera sp
reddish-barked elephant-trees (more than one species?) at lower levels
Cactaceae
Pachycereus grandis
Lemaireocereus doumorteri
Mammillaria sp
Rhipsalis baccifera
tall cardon cactus in dry thorn forests throughout. Another Pachycereus
species seen Santo Tomás area
?possibly this species Los Amoles dry forest
Santo Tomás area, also same or another, Los Amoles dry forest
epiphytic species common at mid-levels throughout
Campanulaceae
Lobelia cardinalis
Lobelia laxiflora
Lobelia irasuensis
Lobelia nana
Lobelia plebeia
Arroyo Frio]
widespread
Laguna Verde margins!]
small blue species around Angangueo etc. Also Pátzcuaro]
small white species around Angangueo. Another blue and white species
in Temascaltepec
Caprifoliaceae
Sambucus nigra
Symphoricarpos microphyllus
roadsides
in leaf locally in the highlands
Caryophyllaceae
Stellaria cuspidatum
scattered
Celastraceae
Celastrus pringlei
laurel-like toothed leaves. Sierra Chincua]
Cistaceae
Helianthemum glomeratum
above Angangueo. Also Brokmann Lakes
Clethraceae
Clethra hartweggi
Clethra mexicana
Clethra sp
Mil Cumbre and Colorines
highlands generally
another species seen at Laguna Maria was in flower]
Cochlospermaceae
Cochlospermum vitifolium
Buttercup Tree. Beautiful open yellow flowered small tree. Canyon sides
near Queseria and Los Amoles dry forest
Combretaceae
Combretum farinosum
fine wands of vibrant orange flowers mostly made up of stamens, green
Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 38
when old. Los Amoles dry forest
Convolvulaceae
Cuscuta corymbosa
Dichandra sericea
scattered in El Fuego and Nevado de Colima area, also Temascaltepec
pretty cordate leaves forming a mat. Laguna Maria, El Fuego, Sierra
Chincua
Morning Glory Tree. Dry forests generally – Lago Cuitzeo etc
White-flowered tree species in Colorines & Temascaltepec areas, also
Los Amoles dry forest
widespread
tiny brilliant orange trumpets. El Fuego
Ipomoea arborescens
Ipomoea murucoides
Ipomoea purpurea
Ipomoea quamclit
Crassulaceae
Altamiranoa mexicana
Echeveria mucronata
Echeveria secunda
Echeveria sp
Sedum minimum
scattered]
orange flowers. Cliffs in Mil Cumbres – mostly over this year
bright orange flowers and glaucous compact rosettes. Rancho de los
Cedros, a few in flower this year
on trees at Laguna Verde, Laguna Maria etc
Sierra Chincua on rocky outcrops
Cucurbitaceae
Cyclanthera integrifolia
vine with small white flowers, palmatisect leaves, oval 3cm fruits
covered in prickles. Laguna Maria and Tacámbaro etc
Ericaceae
Arbutus tesselata
Arbutus xalapensis
Arctostaphylos pungens
Comarostaphylis longifolia
Comarostaphylis rupestris
Tlacotepec and Colorines etc
widespread
Tlacotepec & Tlalpujahua where dominant in the understory, some with
flowers still
Cero Burro
Cero Burro and Tlacotepec. Var discolor also present on Cerro Burro
Euphorbiaceae
Euphorbia furcillata
Euphorbia peplus
Ricinus communis
Sierra Chincua
scattered
Castor Oil Plant. Roadside weed
Fabaceae
Bauhinia variegata
Calliandra grandiflora
Dalea bicolor
Desmodium aparines
Enterolobium cyclocarpum
Erythrinia leptorhiza
Erythrinia spp
Indogifera sp
Inga spuria
Lupinus elegans
Lupinus montanus
Phaseolus lunatus
Vicia americana
widely planted
pink powerpuffs at Laguna Maria and lowlands generally
Purple flowered vetch. Laguna Verde. Cerro Burro and Mil Cumbres,
Nevado de Colima
Trifoliate leaves. Laguna Verde
Elephant’s Ear Tree. Laguna Maria – by the main building!
?a red flowered ‘bromeliad-like’ ground dweller above Temascaltepec
was, I think, in this general area, if not this species – unfortunately we
couldn’t get close enough to check what it really was! Not seen in 2014
at least one species of these beautiful trees in flower at various localities
El Fuego
white sprays
Sierra Chincua
scattered in higher areas. Probably at least two other Lupinus species
present but could not work them out!
trifoliate leaves, orange flowers, large pods. El Fuego
scattered throughout
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Fagaceae
Quercus canbyi
Quercus candicans
Quercus castanea
Quercus crassifolia
Quercus crassipes
Quercus laeta
Quercus laurina
Quercus magnoliifolia
Quercus obtusata
Quercus rugosa
Cerro Burro. Not seen in 2014
Nevado de Colima. Large white oak type leaves with bristle tips
El Fuego, Mil Cumbres etc. Elliptic toothed leaves
Nevado de Colima & Tlacotepec where very common. Large obovate
leaves toothed in distal third
Volcans Fuego & Nevado de Colima. Narrow elliptic leaves
Tlacotepec. Smallish obovate leaves
scattered. Glossy small leaves
Volcans Fuego & Nevado de Colima. Also Cerro Burro & Mil Cumbres.
Very large obovate leaves
Nevado de Colima. Smallish rather typical oak leaves
widespread. Very rough hard leaves
Gentianaceae
Gentiana spathacea
Halenia brevicornis
Halenia plantaginea
above Angangueo. Lots at Tlacotepec, but in seed
in seed above Angangueo
in seed above Angangueo
Geraniaceae
Erodium cicutarium
Geranium deltoideum
Geranium hernandezii
Geranium latum
Geranium lilacinum
Geranium seemannii
Cerro Burro!
Nevado de Colima. Cerro Burro
El Fuego
Sierra Chincua. Cerro Burro
scattered in higher areas
Sierra Chincua & El Fuego
Grossulariaceae
Ribes affine
Scattered in highlands – was this the beautiful flowering currant at
Rancho de los Cedros?
Volcan Nevado de Colima. Probably also Colorines. Mil Cumbres
Ribes pringlei
Guttiferae
Hypericum silenoides
Temascaltepec
Hydrophyllacae
Nama prostratum
Sierra Chincua. Small white flowers at ground level with rounded leaves
Lamiaceae
Leonotis nepetifolia
Salvia albocaerulea
Salvia cinnabarina
Salvia curviflora
Salvia elegans
Salvia fulgens
Salvia gesnerifolia
Salvia gracilis
Salvia iodantha
Salvia lavanduloides
Salvia longispicata
Salvia longistyla
Salvia mexicana
widespread orange-flowered Leonotis – weed of fields, road edge etc.
El Rosario
small tubular reddish flowers. Volcan de Colima
fine medium sized pink species. Mil Cumbres & Temascaltepec. The
species on Cerro Burro was something different!
red flowers – small and narrow. Widespread in highlands
large red flowers and wide leaves. Common in the Mil Cumbres and
noted Sierra Chincua
another large orange- red flowered species – huge in fact! Widespread in
the highlands
pink-purple species with white marks on flower. Highlands esp El Rosario
pink-purple flowers in clusters, velvety flowers with stamens long
extruded. Volcan Fuego and Temascaltepec
blue with purple calyces – highlands where widespread
small dark-blue flowered species. El Fuego & Nevado de Colima
narrow peachy-red flowers. Temascaltepec
purple-blue. Scattered – at least two varieties
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Salvia polystacha
Salvia regla
shrubby weedy species along roadsides with blue & white flowers
large orange-red flowers, inflated calyx, semi-shrubby. Temascaltepec
and Colorines area
possibly this species. Small pale blue flowers. Nevado de Colima
widespread in highlands
orange flowers. Mil Cumbres. Also Cerro Burro
orange-red. Widespread
More distinctly red than previous species but unsure about identity.
Laguna Maria
Salvia santanae
Salvia stricta
Satureja macrostema
Stachys coccinea
Stachys sanchezii?
Lentibulaceae
Pinguicula moranensis
var moranensis. Not in flower. Nice rosettes near Temascaltepec
Loranthaceae
Cladoclea diversifolia
Psittacanthus calyculatus
Psittacanthus mayanus
Psittacanthus ramosus
Psittacanthus sieheanus
scattered throughout, probably other Cladoclea species too?
the large yellow/orange flowered parasite weighing the trees down
between Angangueo and Valle de Bravo
Laguna Maria
Santo Tomás area, also above Laguna Maria. Flowers straight out of
the host plant (acacias in this case)
probably this species near Colorines. Not seen in 2014
Lythraceae
Cuphea aequipetala
Cuphea bustemata?
purple flowers. Rather weedy. Only noted Temascaltepec in 2013
orange and yellow with pink stamens and small purple 'ears'. Mil
Cumbres
small red and yellow flowers in wet spots in the Mil Cumbre
yellow flowers in a spike. Pátzcuaro and Arroyo Frio
Cuphea jorullensis
Heimia salicifolia
Malphigiaceae
Galphimia glauca
beautiful spires of yellow flowers. Above Laguna Maria and also
Temascaltepec
another sp Mil Cumbre
Galphimia sp
Malvaceae
Anoda cristata
Sidalcea sp
pink flowers, typical-looking mallow. Temascaltepec
Tacámbaro
Melastomataceae
Monochaetum calcaratum
Tibouchina scabriuscula
Tibouchina sp
deep bright pink flowers on small shrubs. Cliffs and wet banks.
Temascaltepec & Mil Cumbre
paler pink and smaller flowers than previous species. Temascaltepec
head of white flowers. Temascaltepec
Monotropaceae
Monotropa uniflora
in see – El Rosario
Moraceae
Ficus petiolaris
Colorines and Ciudad Guzman. A variety of species at Laguna Maria
Nyctaginaceae
Mirabilis jalapa
Long-stalked convolvulus like pink (or yellow) flowers. Laguna Maria.
Temascaltepec
Oleaceae
Fraxinus utidei
common large ash in the Laguna Maria area
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Onagraceae
Fuschia arborescens
Fuschia cylindracea
Fuschia microphylla
Fuschia paniculata
Lopezia racemosa
Lopezia tricota
Oenothora deserticola
Nevado de Colima
?probably this species. Nevado de Colima
Sierra Chincua. Piedra Herredia. In 2012 we saw in flower in El Rosario
large shrub with panicles of bright pink flowers. Mil Cumbres
Pink ‘butterfly’ flowers. Divided upper petal. Scattered throughout
Temascaltepec
and Oenothora rosea. I am not sure how to tell these two pink-flowered
evening primroses apart. One or the other seen at Nevado de Colima and
Cerro Burro
Orobanchaceae
Conopholis alpina
Parasitic species in flower under trees a usual picnic spot past the
highest village on the Temascaltepec loop. Dead spikes abundant at
Tlacotepec
Oxalidaceae
Oxalis corniculata
scattered throughout
Papaveraceae
Argemone ochroleuca
Bocconia frutescens
Mexican Prickly Poppy. Scattered along roadsides etc.
locally dominant. Leaves a little like a red oak
Passifloraceae
Passiflora exudans
?possibly this species near Colorines
Phytolaccaceae
Phytolacca icosandra
common along roadsides
Piperaceae
Peperomia galioides
epiphyte. Widely scattered
Plantaginaceae
Plantago australis
Plantago major
scattered
Uruapan etc.
Plumbaginaeae
Plumbago pulchella
Plumbago scandens
pink flowers. Lago Cuitzeo and Temascaltepec
white flowered. Santo Tomás, Lago Cuitzeo and Rancho de los Cedros
Polemoniaceae
Cobaea scandens
Climber. Large purple trumpet flowers, sometimes white. Angangueo
and Temascaltepec. Also Chapala area
El Fuego and Laguna Maria
Small red trumpet flowers – hummingbirds love them. Woody shrub
with wands of dark green leaves and red flowers. Scattered throughout
Loeselia amplectens?
Loeselia mexicana
Polygalaceae
Monnina ciliolata
Polygala sp
A shrub with pretty little milkwort flowers. Highlands
pretty little white and green flowers. Los Amoles dry forest
Polygonaceae
Polygonum lapathifolium
Rumex acetosella
Rumex crispus
roadsides
scattered
scattered
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Primulaceae
Anagallis arvensis
roadsides
Ranunculuceae
Clematis dioica
Ranunculus sp
Thalictrum pubigerum
widespread – in seed
Pátzcuaro
Rancho de los Cedros etc – leaf only
Resedaceae
Reseda lutea
roadsides
Rhamnaceae
Ceanothus caeruleus
Cerro Burro
Rosaceae
Acaena elongata
Alchemilla pringlei
Crataegus mexicanus
Prunus serotina
Leaves like an Agrimonia and spikes probably similar but with
distinctive spiny oval fruits. Widespread at high levels
tracks in the highlands – probably this species?
Cerro Burro & Tlalpujahua area
a cherry. Valle de Bravo area
Rubiaceae
Bouvardia obovata
Bouvardia ternifolia
Temascaltepec. Mille Cumbre. Not seen in 2012
striking upright herb with heads of bright red tubular flowers.
Temascaltepec. Not seen in 2012
Coffee. crops here and there, e.g. at Laguna Maria
Coffea arabica
Salicaceae
Salix paradoxa
Highlands
Saxifragaceae
Heuchera orizabensis
El Chincua & above Angangueo
Scrophulariaceae
Calceolaria mexicana
Castilleja arvensis
Castilleja lithospermoides
Castilleja tenuiflora
Lamourouxia xalapensis
Lamourouxia sp
Mimulus sp
Mimulus glabratus
Penstemon campanulatus
Penstemon roseus
Veronica arvensis
Veronica persica
Small yellow flowers. Streams above Don Bruno, above Angangueo. Mil
Cumbres & Temascaltepec in 2011
widespread
road cuttings above Angangueo and Mil Cumbres. Sierra Chincua
scattered throughout
orange tubular flowers and toothed leaves. Piedra Herredia
red-flowered species El Fuego
wet cliffs – e.g. Mil Cumbres
streams near Arroyo Frio
blue-mauve flowers. Sierra Chincua
deep burgundy flowers. Highlands
scattered
Pátzcuaro
Solanaceae
Cestrum thrysoideum
Nicotinia glauca
Physalis coztomatl
Physalis orizabae
Solandra guttata
Solanum cervantesii
Laguna Maria. Valle de Bravo. Nevado de Colima
roadsides
Cerro Burro
throughout though only seen in fruit
aka as Solandra maxima and probably others! This was the large vine with
the huge golden flowers. Various lowland areas, e.g. Arroyo Frio
quite common in the highlands
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Solanum diversifolium
Solanum hirsutum
Solanum jasminoides
Solanum nigrum
Wigandia urens
scattered
common in the Laguna Maria and Cuidad Guzman area
Potato-Vine. Pátzcuaro area
?probably this species scattered throughout
tall herb with purple flowers like a Solanum. Roadsides, esp Laguna
Maria area
Sterculariaceae
Guazuma ulmifolia
Small tree with pinnate leaves and strange short-prickled fruits.
Arroyo Frio & Colorines
Styracaceae
Styrax argenteus
common in understory at El Rosario etc
Theaeceae
Ternstroemia lineata
Henry spotted this fine small tree in the Mil Cumbres. Glossy elliptic
leaves and pretty white flowers
Utriculariaceae
Utricularia gibba
common in Laguna Verde
Verbenaceae
Lantana camara
scrambling often spiny shrub with opposite ovate leaves and particoloured red-orange heads giving way to fleshy purple fruit
pink-purple flowered. Chapala
Laguna Maria. Several other Verbena species seen
Lantana hispida
Verbena recta
Violaceae
Viola grahami
striking violet with white purple-lined flowers. Temascaltepec
Viscaceae
Arceuthobium abietis-religiosae
Phoradendron schummanii
noted on the Oyamel trees at El Rosario etc. Noted on pines in 2009 and
so not sure whether this is the same or a different species? Also at Sierra
Chincua
mistletoe-like bright green plants noted at Laguna Verde and at the
Brokmann Lakes
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Monocotyledons
Agavaceae
Agave tequilana
Furcraea bedinghausii
source of tequila. Extensive crops spreading in Cuidad Guzman area
Scattered in the highlands esp Mil Cumbres. Also Temascaltepec
Amaryllidaceae
Crinum erubescens
Playa Mezcala
Anthericaceae
Echeandia mexicana
yellow ‘lily’. Temascaltepec – not flowering in 2013
Bromeliaceae
Hechtia podonantha
Pitcairnia heterophylla
Tillandsia balbisiana
Tillandsia bourgaei
Tillandsia calophrysus
Tillandsia caput-medusae
Tillandsia dugesii
Tillandsia fasciculata
Tillandsia erubescens
Tillandsia imperialis
Tillandsia ionantha
Tillandsia juncea
Tillandsia prodigiosa
Tillandsia usneoides
terrestrial species on high cliffs between Valle de Bravo and
Temascaltepec
almost orchid-like inflorescence of white or slightly pink flowers with
leaves died back, looking rather like some kind of parasite. Laguna Maria
area where quite common
Santo Tomás area, fallen from roadside trees
densely lepidote bracts and sepals. Tlacotepec
scattered in the Valle de Bravo area
twisted vases made by leaves. Common in the Colorines area
long flower spikes, each highly flattened, red and green. Colorines
medium to large bromeliad with narrow branched inflorescence that has
orange (to red) bases and yellow tips. Foliage very narrow and glaucous.
Lago Cuitzeo (on Opuntias as well as trees!) and Temascaltepec
smallish bromeliad with very glaucous foliage tightly packed into a vase
shape with an unbranched inflorescence spike with red-orange bracts and
yellow or purple flowers. Scattered, e.g. Rancho de los Cedros
huge squat bromeliad. Common on large trees around Laguna Maria
and on El Fuego, also Santo Tomás
Simply stunning. Just 8cm high or so, in little colonies on the narrow
branches of small trees at Santo Tomás. The basal leaves are mealy greygreen, the upper leaves a brilliant clear red and the flowers a pure purple!
delicate tufted bromeliad with long very thin leaves. Common in Laguna
Maria area
large branched bromeliad common throughout the highlands down to
mid-levels too.
Looks like Spanish Moss, hanging in great tresses from trees! Scattered
El Fuego and Nevado de Colima, also Valle de Bravo area
Commelinaceae
Commelina scabra
Commelina tuberosa
pink tepals. ?probably this species. Temascaltepec. Not 2013
blue tepals. Waterfall near Colorines. Anther smaller blue-flowered
species at Arroyo Frio
Flowers magenta-purple. Tepals roughly equal. Whole plant, esp style
long glandular hairy. Temascaltepec. Not 2013
white flowers. Ditches around Temascaltepec. Not 2013
Tinantia erecta
Tradescantia llamasii
Cyperaceae
Schoenoplectus americanus
Common around shores of Laguna Verde
Iridaceae
Sisyrinchium schaffneri
Sisyrinchium tolucense
yellow species above Angangueo. In 2011 noted Sierra Chincua where
Common but not seen 2013!
Temascaltepec on cliffs. Small yellow flowers, tufted species
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Juncaceae
Juncus ebracteatus
Luzula caricina
Highlands
Highlands
Liliaceae
Yucca elephantides
spectacular plants between Pátzcuaro and Morelia. Also around Colima
Orchidaceae
Corallorhiza involuta
Corallorhiza maculata
Encyclia condollei
Encyclia linkiana
Encyclia sp
Govenia capitata
Malaxis soulei
Maxillaria variabilis
Oncidium cavendishianum
Oncidium cebolleta
Oncidium hyalinobulbon
Oncidium spp
Prescotia tubulosa
Prostechea concolor
Rhynchostele cervantesii
Stellis retusa
Stellis rufobrunnea
Ranchos de los Margaritos, Piedra Herredia & Temsacaltepec. Not 2013
in seed in Mil Cumbres and Piedra Herredia. Not 2013
pretty brown and white species on pines above Real on the
Temascaltepec loop. Not 2013
Colorines
on trees at the bottom end of the reservoir at Valle de Bravo
in seed in the Mil Cumbre
probably this species above Angangueo. Not 2013
little purple orchid on trees at Volcan Fuego
the garish orange and yellow spotted epiphytic orchid seen almost
throughout the tour
Santo Tomás – similar to above species, much narrower leaves
delicate sprays with tiny (8mm) yellow flowers, mostly large shrubs at
mid levels on Volcan Fuego, scattered in Valle de Bravo area
one with big flat leaves and typical sprays of yellow flowers on Volcan
Fuego, another noted there with smallish leaves in 2013
like a ladies tresses with very small yellowish flowers. Tlacotepec. Seen
in 2013 above Angangueo but IG only
pretty white epiphyte with darker lined markings. Laguna Maria
Beautiful white flowered epiphyte with red and yellow markings on the
large flowers. Mil Cumbres
probably this species in the barranca above Laguna Maria. Not 2013
probably this species on El Fuego. Not 2013
Poaceae
Saccharum officinarum
Sugar Cane. Main crop in some lower areas.
Pontederiaceae
Eichhornia crassipes
water hyacinth. Laguna Maria and by the waterfall at Colorines
Smilacaceae
Smilax moranensis
Highlands
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