ONE DESIGN
DR-107
A MEGA POWERED FUN FLY DESIGN
Website address
http://www.wingermodels.rchomepage.com
A FEW WORDS ABOUT THIS KIT
Thank you for purchasing the Winger Models One Design fun fly model aircraft. This kit quickly builds into a easy
flying, yet very aerobatic model. If you have flown an aileron controlled model with mild performance then this
model can be your next step into aerobatic flight. If you are an accomplished flier, you will enjoy the One Design
for it's ability to fly maneuvers at close range.
This model is designed for the Mega 16/15/xx series of brushless motors. I have personally used the Mega 16/15/5
direct and geared 2 to 1, and the Mega 16/15/7 direct. The direct drive setup is nice for it's quiet flying but the
geared 5 turn provided the best vertical power. Hovering at just over half throttle!
Please read through the instructions prior to commencing construction. Being laser cut, the parts are all different but
can look somewhat the same. Make sure you align parts over the full size plans and only remove them from the
sheets when they are actually going to be assembled.
The part numbers are on the sheets and not on the parts. The parts are grouped into categories, ie "FUSELAGE"
and "HORIZ STAB". The parts only go together one way so if something is turning out crooked or bowed then
you probably have a piece in backwards.
The joints used in this design are called dovetails. The dovetails can be very subtly different from one end of the
part to the other so make sure they are in the correct orientation. If you need to remove material to get the parts to
fit, then a part is not correctly orientated or in the proper location. Please check against the drawing before gluing!
Thin CA is used almost exclusively to assemble all the parts.
You'll find that this is not an insert part "A" into part "B" construction manual. I'm just going to highlight the basic
assembly sequence. If your building this model you've probably assembled a few model aircraft before. Use the
plans as a guide to help in locating the proper parts location. The laser cutting technology is a great boon to the
model aircraft builder. Laser cutting provides for very accurate construction that you will enjoy; however, if you've
never built a kit before you may need the help of an experienced builder. Assembly is not difficult and proceeds
quite quickly.
If you have any questions please feel free to contact me at wingerr@shaw.ca. Enjoy.
Sincerely,
Roger Winger
Winger Models
46084 Greenwood Drive
Chilliwack B.C.
Canada
V2R 4C9
KIT CONTENTS
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Full size Cad drawn plans
Photo illustrated instruction manual
11 laser cut sheets of balsa and plywood with 182 parts
Strip wood
Pilot figure
Aluminum landing gear
1/16" tailwheel wire
1/32" music wire pushrods for all flight controls
Reinforcement fabric
Clear plastic radio hatch
ITEMS NEEDED TO FINISH
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1-2 Rolls of covering material
2 of 1 3/4" light mainwheels
3/4" tailwheel
RTV sealant
Thin CA
Epoxy adhesive
2 of servo mounting screws
2 of 4-40 x 5/8" bolts
2 of 4-40 x 1 1/4" bolts
4 of 4-40 self locking nuts
2 of 4-40 nuts
SUGGESTED ELECTRONIC ITEMS
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Mega 16/15/xx direct or geared power system
8-10 cell 2/3a Lipoly cells capable of 18 amps
4 Hitec HS-55 servo's
4 Channel receiver with "Y" harness
6 channel receiver for flaperons with 1 servo extension
SUGGESTED WORKSHOP TOOLS
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Wax paper
Straight pins
Cellotex or ceiling tile for building board
Razor knife
Various grades of sandpaper
Carpenters square or triangle
One large Coke Slurpee, no lid and two straws
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
VERTICAL STABILIZER AND RUDDER
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Begin assembly of the rudder and stabilizer by removing the parts one by one and lining them up over the
drawing. Do not pin the parts to the plans as the laser cut parts will self-align. NOTE: BUILD ON A FLAT
SURFACE
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Pay special attention to the difference in the dovetails from the parts that attach to the straight vertical rudder
centerline and the trailing edge. The dovetails on the trailing edge are slightly offset for the taper. The
difference is subtle and must be noted. NOTE: All flight controls in this kit are cut like this so please observe the
proper orientation.
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Even laser cutting has variances. If when assembling the parts, you have a very tight joint, use a ruler or similar
flat surface to help push the dovetail into it's respective socket. The curve of your thumb may tend to break
the corners of the piece.
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Once the entire assembly is framed, then the 1/16" x 1/8" balsa diagonal braces can be installed. These
braces provide torsional strength to the control surface and should not be omitted. Another secondary benefit
is that if you use So-lite to cover your model, the braces will help keep the covering from contacting the
opposite surface covering.
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Once you get the rudder and stabilizer assembled, you will notice an engraved line on the hinge centerline.
This needs to be cut away following the line precisely. Now your rudder is separated from the vertical
stabilizer.
HORIZONTAL STAB & ELEVATOR
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Assembly of the Horizontal stab and Elevator is similar to the Rudder and Vertical stab.
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Begin by removing the parts from the sheet and aligning them over the plans. Once you are confident that the
parts are in their proper orientation glue with thin CA.
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Once the entire assembly is framed, then the 1/16" x 1/8" balsa diagonal braces can be installed. These
braces provide torsional strength to the control surface and should not be omitted. You'll notice on the
elevator halves that you can choose either side to install your control horn. This is up to you depending on
your radio installation.
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Add the elevator joiner from the plywood sheet.
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AILERONS
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Aileron assembly begins with removing the pats and locating them against the drawings. Note the very subtle
differences in the ends of parts A3 to A10. If you begin to assemble these parts to A1 and A2 and it begins
to bow, then one of the parts is in backwards.
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The ailerons need to be pinned to the building surface to ensure accuracy. Apply wax paper over the plans to
keep the glue from sticking to the paper. When satisfied that all laser cut parts are assembled correctly they
can be glued.
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Add a piece of 1/16" X 1/8" balsa to the inboard end of the aileron on the inside. This will prevent the
covering from bowing the aileron
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Now the 1/16" x 1/8" balsa diagonals can be added. This is the reason why the ailerons are pinned to the
building surface. The diagonals can apply a tension to the vertical members and actually bow the ailerons. In
order to keep the ailerons straight take your time accurately fitting the diagonals in place.
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Glue piece A 11 against A 7 for the aileron control horn.
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When complete remove the aileron from the building surface and build the other one following the same
technique
WING
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Assembly of the wing begins with removal of the ribs (except R-1) and spar halves from the sheets.
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Do not remove the blocks from the trailing edge of the ribs. The wing is built upside down and these are used
to aid wing alignment on the bench.
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Join the two spar halves together and glue. The gap between the two spar halves must be 1/8" to accept rib
R1. Use a scrap piece of 1/8" to aid in setting this gap.
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Install the wing ribs to the left and right spars.
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Carefully remove R-1 from the sheet and do not remove the rectangular block from the center of the rib.
Carefully install R-1 on the spar. When R1 is glued into place the center block can be removed.
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Install the trailing edge alignment piece TE 1.
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Install the dihedral brace on the forward face of the spar.
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Make sure to pin down the wing to a straight building surface before the next step.
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The leading edge stock needs to be tapered to fit properly and to make the shaping easier. Cut the leading
edge stock to 16.5" length. Save the end pieces as you'll need them for the wingtips. The tip rib leading edge
height is .5615". The root rib leading edge height is .77". Cut the leading edge to .77" wide along it's length.
Draw a center line down the leading edge. Draw a mark at what will be the tip end .2808" above and below
the center line. Cut from the tip mark to the root edge to taper the leading edge.
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Now install the leading and pieces to the wing halves.
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Repeat this process for the opposite wing.
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Airscrew makes an inexpensive unit that works very well) and evenly remove wood from the top and bottom of the
forward spar. Note the airfoil shape at the leading edge of the wing from the plans. This is the shape you are
trying to achieve. Once you get close you can true up the shape with a sanding block.
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Add the trailing edge and carefully shape to follow the airfoil contour in the same manner. Use the plans as a
guide.
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Glue together the aileron servo mounts. Make sure to assemble them in a left and right configuration. The
aileron servo blocks can now be added to rib R5.
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Remove the interlock tabs from ribs R2 on the rear surface of the spar. This makes room for the battery.
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Remove the battery tray from the sheet. The battery tray ends need to be cut to fit between ribs R3. The
battery tray is about 1/32" oversize at each end so that it can be fit to your particular model. The battery tray
goes towards the top surface of the wing. Batteries will be loaded from the bottom when your model is
complete.
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The wingtips can be assembled off the wing and then installed. Place the triangle braces on the wingtip WT 1
and glue to wingrib R9. True up the trailing edge of the wingtip with the trailing edge of the wing using a
sanding block.
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Take the saved scrap pieces from the leading edge, cut some pieces to add the wingtip to extend the leading
edge.
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Install the center rib doublers. These will need trimming where they meet the spar. Install two pieces per side
forward and aft of the spar upper and lower surface. Install two pieces per side aft side of the spar upper and
lower surface.
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Install pieces W1 and butt glue them to the center rib doublers.
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Install rib doublers R2A to the outside of rib R2 on the lower surface.
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Install rib doublers R3A to the outside of rib R3 on the lower surface.
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Glue together the elevator and rudder servo mounts. Make sure to assemble them in a left and right
configuration. These servo blocks can now be added to rib R1 doublers on the lower surface. in the location
shown on the plans.
FUSELAGE
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Begin by removing all laser cut parts and aligning over the plan to ensure orientation. When satisfied with the
assembly it can be glued with thin CA at all joints. Install pieces F19, F20 and F21
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Install the 1/16" x 1/8" diagonal crossbraces.
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Repeat the two steps above to build the other fuselage side. Install the diagonal crossbraces at an opposite
45 angle.
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Cut the supplied fabric material into 1/4" strips. Glue to the inside of one fuselage running the length of F6 and
F8 with thin CA. Make sure the fabric does not extend past the bottom of F8. This will considerable stiffen
the fuselage in the tail area. For an even stiffer fuselage use some prepreg carbon fiber.
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Once the two sides are complete, they can be joined together. Use thick CA to join the sheeted areas and
thin CA at the uprights and intersection of the diagonals. Go along all edges and glue with thin CA. It is
important to make sure the fuselage is glued everywhere for greatest strength.
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The 1/4" square spruce motor mount sticks can now be added. Carefully drill a 1/16" hole in the end of each
spruce stick for the motor mount. Use the plywood motor mount as a guide for hole placement.
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The tailwheel wire can now be fabricated as per the drawing on the plans. Make a hole in the bottom of the
fuselage to insert the wire. Wrap with cloth provided and soak with thin CA to reinforce the fuselage in this
area. Do this by gluing the fabric to the bottom of the fuse. Set your covering iron to 350 degrees and heat the
cloth around the fuselage. Now glue with thin CA and sand to fair.
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The aluminum blanks can be bent easily in a vice at a 45 angle to match the pattern on the plans. The gear
can be heat treated in a household oven. Heat the bent blanks at 350 for 1 hour and then quench in cold
water.
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Drill two 3/32" holes for gear mounting to the fuselage. Drill a 3/32" hole in the bottom for axle mounting.
Use the plans as a guide.
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Remove plywood gear doublers from laser cut plywood sheet and bevel the edges with sandpaper. Install
plywood gear doublers in location shown on plans.
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Using your newly fabricated gear as a guide, drill mounting holes through the plywood gear doubler.
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Assemble both pilot halves. You can take a fine point felt marker and over draw the laser etch to make your
pilot more visible.
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FINISHING AND COVERING
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Sand all surfaces to remove any high or low spots. Sand the leading edges of all flight controls to a half round
shape. Sand the mating surface square. For example, the trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer is flat and the
leading edge of the rudder is sanded to a half round. Sand all flight controls in this manner.
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Trial fit the wing to the fuselage. You may need to trim the opening in the fuselage or the wing. Trim carefully
as the tighter the fit the better the glue joint.
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Add the 1/4" triangle stock to the fuselage sides for the horizontal stabilizer. Confirm that the horizontal stab is
perpendicular to the fuselage.
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Cover the wings, fuselage and tail feathers with one of the lightweight films available. You can use Solar film
SoLite or Nelson Lite Film.
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Ensure there is no covering over the wing rib doublers for proper gluing to the fuselage. Ensure proper
alignment and glue with epoxy.
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Install the stabilizers and ensure correct alignment.
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Install landing gear with 2, 4-40 bolts and self locking nuts.
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Drill the spruce motor mount rails with a 1/32" drillbit. Use the motor mount as a guide to place the holes.
Attach the motor mount with 2 servo screws.
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To provide right thrust in the motor installation begin by wrapping the motor in electrical tape. Install into the
motor mount. Wedge the rear of the motor over to provide about 2-3 degrees right thrust. Carefully lay a
bead of silicone sealant (RTV) on each side of the motor top and bottom squeezing it between the fuselage
and motor. Let dry for the recommended time. The use of masking tape will help keep your sealant bead neat
and tidy. If you use clear RTV you will barely see it.
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Install the flight controls with CA hinges or tape.
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Use heavy duty thread to install flying wires in the horizontal and vertical stab. Thread a needle and CA the
brace wires in place.
RADIO INSTALLATION
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All electronic equipment is installed in the wing.
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The battery is simply velcro'd to the bottom of the battery tray.
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The receiver can be installed in the leading edge or to one side by the battery, velcro'd into place.
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Aileron servo's will need a "Y" harness or if you use flaperons you will need one servo extension.
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The pushrods are supplied with a "Z" bend at one end. Use your preferred method to attach to the servo arm.
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Slide the pushrod guides onto the elevator and rudder pushrods before attaching to the servo
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Cut a small slot to fit the guides in the fuselage uprights where needed.
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The blue plastic supplied is for the radio hatch. Cut to fit. Simply tape into place.
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The radio on/off switch can be mounted to the hatch.
LET'S GO FLYING
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Make sure all controls move in the correct direction. Set the control throw to 1/2" up and down on the
ailerons and elevator, 1" on the rudder for initial flights. Increase the control throws incrementally to as much
as you can handle and have some fun.
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Balance the model on the spar for initial flights. When you get comfortable with your One Design you can
move the balance point aft for more maneuverability.
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Lastly push the the throttle forward and head into the sky. The One Design is a great flying aircraft. You will
appreciate the maneuverability and ease of flying on each flight. The flying ability of this model is far beyond
my skills and I learn something new on every flight. Loops, rolls, knife edge, snaps and hovering are all
possible with this model. Landings are a breeze with all that wingarea.
l For the best power to weight ratio a geared brushless motor will pull this model straight up, gravity does not
exist! The Mega 16/15/7 direct does a great job of flying the One Design and will hover the model. I tend to
prefer the direct drive setup for it's smooth and quite operation. Either way it is a truly fun aircraft to fly and I
hope you enjoy it as much as I do.
Copyright 2003