JAY PRATTE FOR LOVE UNDERDOGS:
NUTRITION HANDBOOK
Section 1: Assessing your dog’s health
Section 2: Nutrition and diet / meal choices
Section 3: Age and life stage considerations
Section 4: Medical considerations
Section 5: Feeding schedules
Section 6: Treats
Section 7: Human food and your dog
Appendix I: Body Condition Score (BCS) charts
©JayPratte, 2015
NUTRITION HANDBOOK
This section of your handbook is to provide insight into your dog’s physiology and dietary
needs. It will cover life stages, appropriate foods and choices, treats, supplements, etc.
We will also touch on obesity issues and other possible medial conditions that you should be
aware of.



Remember, your dog ONLY has the choices that YOU provide.
All dogs are different, and ‘standard’ amounts or products may not be right for your dog.
If you are in doubt about an issue with diet or health, always consult a veterinarian or
nutritionist (animal nutrition specialists are available)
1. Assessing your dog’s health
Congratulations! You have rescued a dog,
and not a wolf. Yet while we discussed in
previous Handbooks how dogs have evolved
alongside of humans over thousands of
years and are no longer pack animals
roaming the wild, they still possess the same
basic digestive system that their ancestors
did. Tonka the 130 pound Rottweiler has the
same type of tract as tiny 22 pound Sigmund
the Frenchie, and they are both nearly
identical to their feral canid ancestors. This
is important for us to remember while
reading this handbook, as some of the
information will then make more sense.
While our furry friends will happily consume
most processed foods, table scraps, and
random other items, they (or we) think
would be edible, dogs are still genetically
engineered to require protein as dietary
staple (see Section 2)
Our propensity to feed dogs whatever
comes in a flashy package or items that they learn (or coerce us into thinking they are
picky about) are tasty leads to a number of long term weight and health issues. Therefore
we need to start off right and maintain dietary consistency from the beginning. This does
NOT mean only feeding them the same thing every meal (think about how you’d enjoy
that…), but that we are consistent in how we approach their nutritional needs over time,
and in how we assess their health at any given moment.
©JayPratte, 2015
So start by looking at your canine
friend now. How do they look? Is
their coat shiny and full? Are their
eyes bright and aware? And is the
animal energetic and n=engaged or
lethargic? Check the animal’s teeth
and nails (if this is a challenge, see
the
Training
Handbook
for
assistance). Do they look ‘normal’? If
the nails are brittle and flaking, or
the teeth and gums do not look
healthy (receded, covered in plaque,
etc.), you need to reassess the
animal’s current diet and work on
appropriate nutritional needs.
Now let’s look at weight. Multiple studies show that over fifty (that’s 5-0…) percent of
dogs are overweight or obese. It also appears that owners AND veterinarians are markedly
under-diagnosing weight problems. One way of assessing where your dog fits into things
is researching Body Condition Score (BCS) charts appropriate to your dog’s size/breed.
Here is one example:
For your reference,
the BCS charts for
different sized dogs
are included in
Appendix I at the
end
of
this
handbook. A quick
assessment is: does
your dog have a
‘waist’? And when
you run your fingers
over their side, can
you feel ribs at all, or
just a layer of fat?
Honesty in assessing
a dog’s weight and health are vital. Dogs, like people, can suffer from weight-related
issues such as spinal and joint problems, respiratory difficulties, and even diabetes (just
to name a few). If you are concerned about the animal’s health or weight, consult a
veterinarian or canine nutritionist if this handbook does not provide helpful information.
It is your responsibility to help your furry friend be as healthy as possible!
©JayPratte, 2015
2. Nutrition and Diet /Meal choices
Like the issues we see every day with human food, what we *think* we are feeding our
dogs may be misleading. Chicken McNuggets™ are technically the same type of protein as
a lean chicken breast, but we know that the differences in preparation, packaging,
additives and other ‘alternations’ make all the difference in the world to their impact on
health. There are as many ‘fast food’ and ambiguous marketing issues with pet food as
with ours, and so it is up to you as a responsible pet parent to do a little research on your
own to avoid feeding an improper diet. Keep in mind that your dog’s nutritional needs will
also change based on their age/lifestyle (see Section 3).



Meat-based foods are essential; many dog foods are mostly corn/vegetable-based.
You get what you pay for; good quality = better health. Dogs need to eat less of a quality
food to maintain necessary calories and nutritional balance.
Check ingredient lists to see how much of what you do (or do NOT) want are present.
A ‘high protein’ dog food can be comprised of indigestible items like feathers, hide or
hooves. The declared protein level by analysis might be high but if the dog cannot digest
the substances, then the protein molecules cannot break down into essential amino acids
for absorption. A dog’s body synthesizes many necessary proteins/amino acids; there are
only a small number to keep track of:
‘Essential amino acids’ (obtained only through diet) –Arginine; Histidine; Isoleucine;
Methionine; Phenylalanine; Tryptophan; Threonine; Valine, Leucine; Lysine.
High protein on the package may be misleading: check the ingredients label to see if the
source of protein is digestible.
Table #1 - Protein Digestibility List
Egg whites
Muscle meats (chicken, beef, lamb)
Organ meats (kidney, liver, heart)
Milk, cheese
Fish
Soy
Rice
Oats
Yeast
Wheat
Corn
1.00
.92
.90
.89
.75
.75
.72
.66
.63
.60
.54
Just like human foods, ingredients must be listed according to weight of the ingredient
added in descending order. So by weight of raw ingredients, the main ingredients is listed
first, second most prominent ingredients next, etc. The first three ingredients are vital.
©JayPratte, 2015
Check if the diet is meat-based with
lamb, fish or poultry listed as the
main ingredients, or vegetablebased with corn, rice, wheat, or
soybean meal listed as the main
ingredients. Canine and Feline
Nutrition lists substances that
provide protein, including beef,
chicken, eggs, fish, lamb and
appropriate by-products (organ
meats like liver, kidney, stomach,
heart, blood, spleen, etc.). ‘Meat byproducts’ however is not enough
information, so look for something
specific, like ‘chicken by-products’.
‘In general, high-quality animal source proteins provide superior amino acid
balances for companion animals, compared with the amino acid balances that are
supplied by grain proteins. The protein in grains is not as balanced or available as
the protein in high-quality animal sources…’
So it makes sense to feed your little carnivore a meat-based diet over a vegetable or grainbased one, correct? Well this quality and ‘appropriateness’ will translate directly into cost.
The meat-based products will invariable be more expensive than those based on cheap
vegetable matter. To be responsible and make the best choices for your dog, try not to let
the price of food dictate your buying decisions regarding food. Dog food, again like human
products, is very much a ‘you get what you pay for’ situation. The higher the quality, the
more expensive the food is. Higher quality ingredients mean increased nutritional value
for your dog. Cheap dog foods will contain cheap poorly digested ingredients that will lead
(over time) to health problems.
Ultimately, you will end up buying less high-quality food than cheap food; your dog needs
to eat more low-quality food to meet their dietary needs. You furry friend will also poop
less when consuming a high-quality diet than with a grain-based diet; cheap ingredients
are less efficiently digested, and consequently more faecal waste is produced.
Pay attention to ‘ingredient splitting’; pet food manufacturers may break down a product
analysis into different forms of the same ingredient to make the analysis look better. For
example, corn is NOT an appropriate protein source, since it contains only 4/10 essential
amino acids, no taurine, and nutrition experts do not include it on lists of protein source
in pet foods. But because of the law requiring ingredients to be listed by weight, ‘corn’ is
often broken down into different forms, then each corn derivative is placed separately
into the analysis according to the amount of the form present. The analysis may list
©JayPratte, 2015
ground corn, yellow corn meal, corn gluten, and corn gluten meal separately, so that
instead of corn being the main ingredient by weight, it places it further down the analysis
to make it appear that there is a lot less in the product than the actual amount. So read
your ingredients carefully while buying food for your dog.
To help with making an educated choice, the following link leads to an excellent article
and review of foods on Reviews.com (http://www.reviews.com/dog-food/)
Also, cross referencing this link with the UK site (http://www.allaboutdogfood.co.uk/thedog-food-directory), two notable brands on the top of both lists/reviews are Orijen and
ZiwiPeak.
Canned/Wet Foods?
So what about canned or wet food? While they can be high in protein sources and more
quality ingredients, and are usually exceptionally palatable to your dog, they are generally
75% water. This means that 75% of your cost is going towards a non-nutritive ingredient
that you can readily supply on your won. Wet foods can be very helpful with picky dogs
or with those who may have lost teeth due to age or illness, yet can also be high calorie
and difficult to judge correct amounts to feed. Using it as a supplement to dry food (mixing
small amounts in) can improve the taste of your dog’s potentially boring daily chow and
be very enriching as a surprise periodically.
Keep in mind that one other advantage to dry foods is that they improve oral hygiene
through crunching friction, helping to keep the gums and teeth healthier than wet food
alone.
Supplements
A quick note on supplements. If you have chosen quality food, appropriate for the life
stage of your dog (see Section 3), then good commercial dog foods are manufactured to
provide the correct balance of vitamins, minerals, and protein that your dog requires. If
you are noticing specific health issues with your dog, consult a veterinarian, but do not
ever just add a supplement to your dog’s diet without specific veterinary
recommendations. Some ‘supplements’ can be toxic when they accumulate in a dog’s
system, and dogs can also be sensitive to specific additives or extras.
Common supplements are glucosamine and chondroitin, often given together to help
protect the joints to prevent or slow progression of arthritis. These work to increase
lubrication within the joint as well as repair cartilage. Speak with your veterinarian if you
have age or breed specific concerns for your dogs, and they will recommend an
appropriate brand or dosage.
Omega-3 fatty acids, such as those found in fish oil, are another common supplement.
Omega-3 fatty acids are powerful anti-inflammatory for the skin and joints and can help
support the function of multiple organs. Speak to your veterinarian regarding if your dog
needs additional omega-3 fatty acids, and how much to give.
©JayPratte, 2015
3. Age and Life stage considerations
A puppy clearly does not have the same
nutritional requirements as an adult or
senior dog. Use the information in Section
2 as a quality guide, and consider the
following life stage guidelines.
Remember that the age ranges are not the
sae across dog breeds. Smaller dogs
generally mature faster and live longer
than larger breeds; bigger dogs mature
over a longer period of time and have
shorter spans of adulthood/senior
citizenship. That said, every dog develops
and ages at their own rate, so watching
your dog’s health, weight (Section1) and
activity levels will help assess where you
and your dogs are currently at.



Puppies need more protein and calories while growing than they will as an adult.
Use BCS charts (Appendix I) to assess your adult dog’s weight and adjust food intake.
Though senior dogs need less calories, they need good quality. For any life stage, monitor
the dog’s BCS, activity levels, and overall health.
Puppies
Your dog is considered a puppy, and then an adolescent (or juvenile) from about four
weeks of age until somewhere between 6 and 18 months depending on breed. A growing
puppy needs about twice the amount of daily protein intake as an adult, and about 50%
more dietary fat. They require sometimes up to twice as many calories as they will ingest
as an adult while they are growing. This is a vital period to check ingredients and ensure
the food is higher quality. As they get older, they will need less protein and calorie intake,
so keep an eye on their growth and Body Condition Score (Section 1, Appendix I) and make
changes when needed. If you are unsure, consult a pet nutrition expert or veterinarian.
Adult dogs
Adulthood for dogs begins anywhere from 12 months to three years of age; again, smaller
dogs will reach their adult size sooner than larger dogs. Throughout this stage the dog
needs a good quality food to maintain healthy activity levels and to build a foundation of
good health for their senior years. The better care provided during the first two stage of
life, the longer your fury friend will be with you, and will endure fewer health problems
as they age.
©JayPratte, 2015
Assess your dog as an individual.
The feeding instructions on the pet
food packaging may be a general
guideline, but may be completely
inappropriate for your pet. More
active dogs, or individuals (just like
people) with higher metabolism
rates will require more calories
daily. My two Frenchies at home
both weigh around 22 pounds;
Pavlov gets 2/3 the amount of food
that her active, younger brother
gets (and she’s still a little round…).
Senior dogs
A dog is considered ‘senior’ starting between 6 and 10 years of age, again depending on
breed and individual. Every dog will be different, but as they age and activity levels
decrease, continue to assess their BCS and adjust food intake accordingly. My old man,
Biscuit, is a lab mix I have had since he was 8 weeks old. He is 14 years old now, and only
last year sis he start slowing down enough to where I had to decrease his food!
Be careful in choosing ‘Reduced calorie’, ‘Lite or Light Diets’ or ‘Senior Diets’ as not all are
beneficial for dogs. Some have restricted fat levels to reduce calories, and consequently
increased carbohydrate percentages. As in humans, increase carbohydrates can stimulate
additional insulin secretion, causing the body to store unused calories as fat. So some dogs
may gain weight on ‘reduced calories’ foods. Consult with your veterinarian as to which
diet is best for your pet. A meat-based diet higher in protein (which will not store as body
fat) and fat, while low in carbohydrates is more appropriate at this life stage. Now just
©JayPratte, 2015
adjust the quantity fed based on activity and your dog’s BCS so that your dog is not taking
in more calories daily than they are burning off. As always, if you are unsure, consult a pet
nutrition expert or veterinarian.
Pregnant/lactating females
Whilst Love Underdogs never adopt out pregnant or lactating females, you may still find
this information useful, should you ever find yourself looking after one. Firstly, you will
need to adjust calorie intake accordingly. A pregnant female may need her diet increased
by up to 25% (or more, depending on activity level and number of puppies). Once the pups
are born, the more puppies she is nursing, the more calories she will need. Caloric intake
will also continue to increase as the puppies grow in size, until weaning at approximately
8 weeks of age. Protein and fat intake need to be higher during pregnancy and nursing to
ensure the proper health of both mother and offspring.
4. Medical considerations
Dogs, as humans, can suffer a range of health issues related to diet and nutrition. Obesity
is one complication we can avoid (along with any number of problems it leads to) by
consistently assessing the dog’s body condition (Section 1) and choosing a healthy, highquality diet. Quality met-based foods are less likely to develop conditions like diabetes or
hyperthyroid complications. Dogs can also be
lactose intolerant, which generally affects the
treats we give them more than anything, but if
strange symptoms develop and the food you use
contains any dairy-based products, this might be
a consideration.
Dogs often may develop allergies to corn, wheat,
soy and other foods. Allergies are usually
symptomized by dry, itchy skin, reddened,
swollen ears; itchy face and chin; compulsive
licking of the paws. Keep in mind, some of these
symptoms may also conceal separate issues (for
example, my little Frenchie Pavlov often suffers
yeast infections in her ears and between her
toes, which can cause redness and itching).



Be aware of potential food allergies and intolerance. Dogs can be lactose intolerant as well.
High quality foods will help minimize food-related health issues.
If you are in doubt about an issue with diet or health, always consult a veterinarian.
Vomiting and /or diarrhea can occur if your dog develops food intolerances. Food allergies
and intolerances need to be diagnosed by a veterinarian, so if you notice issues with your
dog’s health be sure to talk to a professional right away. Dietary deficiencies may take a
significant amount of time to develop. However, high-quality foods are unlikely to trigger
©JayPratte, 2015
these types of problems, and switching to a higher quality food with less processed
ingredients and vegetable-based matter will often eliminate them over time.
A dog that is suffering health complications will also have different nutritional
requirements. If you know your dog has a specific issue, be sur to speak to a veterinarian
or nutrition expert about modifying your dog’s diet to meet specific challenges (for
example, altering protein and carbohydrates intake in diabetic animals.)
5. Feeding schedules
How much should you feed your dog, and when? Section 1 through 4 have discussed how
to assess wat the correct amount of food is for your dog. It will be based on a number of
factors, and will change over time.
Some dogs will monitor their own food intake well and can be ‘free fed’, where their own
food bowl is left out and they can eat as they please. Most dogs will likely need a little
more observation for proper health management. Unless you are measuring how much
food is being left out and subsequently consumed each day, then it is impossible to know
how much your dog is eating regularly. This makes it challenging to alter the diet if changes
in weight or health occur. Setting up a feeding schedule is usually the best plan,
particularly one that mirrors you own eating habits. If the dog is eating at the same time
you are, then behaviourally you may be minimizing potential ‘begging’ issues down the
road.
I personally recommend two meals a day, for a few reasons. Like with humans, dogs need
calories and protein to start their day in a healthy manner. Their mammalian bodies are
like ours in needing the correct types of nutrients and energy to function well. Breaking
down their total amount of food into a couple of meals helps keep their metabolism up a
bit, and keeps food in their stomach longer. This can be a HUGE deal if your dog is fed only
one meal a day, and develops ‘psychological hunger’. Animals can eat once a day, but then
over the rest of the 24 hour period feel like there are hungry and should be eating or filling
their stomach. Likely they observe us eating, and if their stomach is empty (regardless of
whether they have had their daily caloric intake or not) they may end up ‘hungry’.
Psychological hunger can end up in undesirable chewing behaviours, or lead to begging,
displaced frustration/aggression, or to eating fecal waste. By separating their food into
two or three separate feedings, you can minimize this type of issue. This will also spread
the calories out over the course of the day. Like with people, several small meals keeps
the metabolism up and helps burn off calories more efficiently.



Controlling and monitoring a dog’s food intake is preferable over ‘free-feeding’.
Multiple meals balance metabolism and minimize ‘psychological hunger’ and begging.
Use portion of daily food to train your dog if you are able, to minimize extra calories from
treats.
©JayPratte, 2015
Other random issues that feeding multiple
meals can address are examples such as
‘Bilious Vomiting Syndrome.’
From PetMD:
‘The classic symptoms of bilious vomiting
syndrome is vomiting on an empty stomach.
This usually occurs first thing in the morning
since most dog’s stomach is empty, all that
comes up is fluid, mucus, and often some
bile, which tinges everything an orangeybrown color. Dogs with bilious vomiting
syndrome are normal in all other
respects….no diarrhea, weight loss, poor
appetite, etc.’
My Rottweiler, Tonka, developed this at
around 8-10 months of age. He would wake
up like clockwork around 4 am and vomit up
bile or anything left in his stomach. After
having him checked by the veterinarians
(always rule out medical problems first), we
determined he was fine and may have BVS.
Tonka went from two meals a day to three
(one right before bed) and the problem
vanished immediately. So a feeding
schedule that offers up multiple opportunities can potentially aid in helping or preventing
other physiological or psychological issues.
One last note about feeding schedules: do not be afraid to try and use the dog’s dry food
for training sessions throughout the day. Most dogs will happily work and do requested
behaviours for a few pieces of dry food at a time. If you’re able to do this, you can
minimize the treats you hand out, as the treats can be a huge source of calories and other
dietary problems (see Section 6).
6. Treats
We are going to want to reward and make our dogs happy, and one of the ways we like
to do that is through treats. Chewy items, training rewards, people food, all of these will
end up being offered at some point. It is our responsibility to ensure that the treats we
provide are healthy and do not impact the dog’s short- and long-term welfare negatively.



Training treats should be small, easily consumed, and monitored for calorie intake.
Bones and ‘chews’ often carry a risk of choking and impaction in the digestive system.
‘People’ foods can be safe and healthy for dogs. See section 7 for Good/Bad charts.
©JayPratte, 2015
‘Training’ treat
Let’s consider these the bite sized Milk Bone™ type treats we like to hand our pets. They
might be crunchy, chewy, meaty or whatever, but we generally hand them out regularly
when the dogs make us smile. Consider them like candy in a few ways. Firstly, we do not
want the dogs to get too much. We can portion out the animal’s dinner all we want, but
if we (and other family members) indiscriminately hand out treats whenever, we could
unintentionally be pushing the dog’s calorie limit over the top. This can quickly lead to
obesity, weight complications, etc.
Treats should usually be small, bitesized and easy for the dog to consume
quickly (unless you want a treat to last
longer as a distraction or to occupy their
time). The smallest treat that has value
to the dog should be used. As long as
they keep listening to you and they
enjoy the treat, keep it minimal.
Remember, different dogs have
different favourite items, so know what
they prefer.
I will usually use moist treats from
sealed foil bags. Small ones that can be
broken up (I have a 130 pound dog and
a 22 pound one…) are easiest. In
moderation, this is minimal calorie
intake. Keep in mind if the dog will not
train for his food (say, on a walk), then use some treats and consider pulling a little food
from their dinner to compensate. Try to buy known brands, and always be aware of
potential recalls. Several types of dog treats over the past few years have contained
toxins, and led to dog illnesses and death in several counties.
Bones
Experts go both ways on the value of bones in our dog’s feeding routing. On the one hand,
dogs are carnivores and designed to process and pas a certain amount of bone material.
Chewing on a bone can also have dental benefits in helping keep plaque and tartar under
control. As fur and bone are processed through the canine digestive tract and expelled, it
also helps clear the dog’s anal glands.
However, there is nothing in the bones that a dog NEEDS. There are also severe risks
involved. Chunks of bone can break off or splinter and become lodged in the dog’s mouth,
throat or digestive tract. This will result in an expensive surgery, IF you catch the problem
in time. Should you decide to offer your dog a bone to gnaw on, make sure they cannot
swallow it whole or bite chunks off which can be problematic. Never leave your dog
unattended with a bone. It is probably better to err on the side of caution and give your
furry friend appropriate, durable toys to chew on.
©JayPratte, 2015
Chew treats
There are a tremendous number of chewing products for dogs on the market. Rawhides,
pig ears, hooves, antlers, just to name a few. Some are packaged up nicely at the pet store,
others can be found more organically from local farmers or markets. Keep in mind, like
with bones, there are often risks associated with a lot of the chewable items.
Rawhides will swell both as the dog is
chewing on them, and then further once
in the digestive system. This can lead to
impaction or other problems if bigger
chunks end up ingested. Often they can
splinter or break off, and dogs are
tempted to ‘wolf down’ what they can
quickly, which leads to a choking hazard.
Rawhides and pig ears are not offered in
my home anymore, as on two separate
(thankfully
supervised)
occasions,
Sigmund the Frenchie tried to swallow a
small-dog sized treat almost whole, and I
had to pull it from his throat as he was choking. We now focus on nylon toys and deer
antlers. Oddly the deer antlers do not splinter and help keep teeth very clean. Three out
of four of my pack love chewing on them. Hooves are also VERY popular with most dogs,
and do not splinter or break easily. But be warned, once the dog starts chewing on them,
they small terrible.
Following are some excerpts from an article on The Science Dog, regarding chew treats:
‘Chews made from pig’s ears, composed primarily of cartilage and the protein collagen,
had a very low gastric (stomach) digestibility. Although these were almost completely
digested in the intestinal environment, the lack of change in gastric acid means that a pig’s
ears treat, if swallowed, would potentially leave the stomach intact and enter the small
intestine with little change in size and consistency.
Similarly, rawhide chews made from cow skin were very poorly digested in the stomach.
Intestinal digestibility was low in the intestinal environment. Researchers noted that
feeding rawhides chews to a dog who tended to consume large pieces could increase a
dog’s risk for intestinal blockage.
When a pork skin chew was compared directly to a beef rawhide chew, the pork skin
product’s digestibility was significantly greater than that of beef rawhide chew. After six
hours, which is approximately the time it takes for a meal to begin to leave a dog’s stomach
and enter the small intestine, the pork chew was more than 50 percent digested, while the
rawhide was only 7.6 percent digested. This low rate of gastric break down continued even
when tested up to 24 hours.
After simulation of digestion in the small intestine (the major site of digestive processes in
dogs), the pork skin rawhide was almost 100% digested, while the beef rawhide reached
only 50 to 70% digestion under the same conditions for 24 hours.’
©JayPratte, 2015
So in short, if you are going to choose a chewing treats for your dog, go with safe/durable
nylon or latex toys that are safe if ingested, antler pieces, hooves, or pig skin treats.
People food
Using human food for treats is fine, provided you are aware of calorie intake, toxicity, and
that you try to avoid encouraging begging behaviours. For a discussion of ‘safe
Versus potentially toxic people food, see section 7. There are a few items that are useful
and of high value that, again in moderation, can be given to your canine friend. Hot dog
slices or small pieces of cheese (providing your dog is not lactose intolerant) will be
valuable treat, and often help with delivering pills when necessary. Try other interesting
and healthy options with your dog periodically. Baby carrots are a high value reward in
my home. It did not start out that way, but over time I ‘sold’ the dogs on how delicious
they were, and now everyone loves them!
Treat toys
Think about how you can deliver treats to your
dog while you are away, or to occupy them for
longer than it takes them to swallow a small
bite. Several manufacturers make dog puzzles
and treat toys that can engage your dog for long
periods. Some dispense dry food, others (like a
simple Kong™) can have a small amount of
peanut butter or other healthy treats jammed
in for the dog to work out over time. Be aware,
some toys require a specific type of treat to
work or fit properly. This seems inconvenient,
but it is usually another way to keep getting
money from you. Know what the treats
involved are as well, to ensure your dog is safe and not getting fat with them. Also, unless
you know that a toy is strong enough to withstand your dog’s attentions, do not leave
them unattended. In my home, my old Lab Biscuit will play with toys for hours, knocking
them around until the treats all come out (or they roll under the bed). The Rottweiler,
Tonka, however decides the best way to get the food out is the bite through the toy, so
he cannot have access to Biscuit’s hard plastic kibble-ball, but is fine with a larger
rubberized version.
©JayPratte, 2015
7. Human food and your dog
I know while I am cooking or eating, the dogs are always looking for a free treat. I regularly
research what ‘human food’ items are safe for the dogs and which are not. For
convenience, the compilation of the research is below, broken into two categories: GOOD
or BAD for your dog.
©JayPratte, 2015
©JayPratte, 2015
©JayPratte, 2015
©JayPratte, 2015
©JayPratte, 2015
©JayPratte, 2015
Appendix I: Body Condition Score charts for the different dog size ranges.
(University of Liverpool: Royal Canin Weight Management Clinic)
©JayPratte, 2015
©JayPratte, 2015
©JayPratte, 2015
©JayPratte, 2015
©JayPratte, 2015
©JayPratte, 2015
Sources
‘AAHA Canine Life Stage Guidelines’, J. Bartges, PHD, DVM, DACVIM, DACVN (et al)
(American Animal Hospital Association/2012)
‘Canine and Feline Nutrition: A Resource for Companion Animal Professionals’, L. Case,
D. Carey, L. Hirakawa and L. Daristotle (Mosby/2000)
‘Contrasting Grain-based and Meat-based Diets for Dogs’, T. J. Dunn, Jr., DVM
(PetMD.com)
‘Canine Obesity – An Overview’, J. Gossellin, J. A. Wren and S. J. Sunderland (Journal
of Veterinary Pharmacology and Therapeutic, 30: 1-10/ 2007)
‘Development and Validation of a Body Condition Score System for Dogs’, D. Laflamme
DP (Canine Practice, 22: 10-15/July-August 1997)
‘Your Dog’s Nutritional Needs; A Science-Based Guide for Pet Owners’, (National
Research Council of the National Academies/2015)
‘Principles of Dog Nutrition’, T. J. Dunn, Jr., DVM (PetMD.com)
‘Should I Give My Dog Supplements?’ Ashley Gallagher, DVM (PetMD.com)
‘Small Animal Clinical Nutrition, III’ Lewis, Morris Jr. (Mark Morris Institute/1 Jan.
1994)
University of Liverpool: Royal Canin Weight Management Clinic (http://www.petslimmers.com/)
‘What Foods Are Toxic For Dogs’, Sarah Logan Wilson; Oct 24, 2014
(http://www.caninejournal.com/foods-not-to-feed-dog/)
http://www.naturalbalanceinc.com/signs-of-pet-obesity.aspx
http://thesciencedog.wordpress.com: Rawhide digestibility.
www.reviews.com: It’s All About Quality Ingredients. Updated July 14, 2015
©JayPratte, 2015