Gabrielle de Lara
Uruguay, August 2008 - July 2009
Why Uruguay?
I chose to spend my year abroad in Uruguay out of curiosity and it turned out to be the
best decision I’ve made in my life thus far. Spain is one of my favourite places to visit,
and as a student living in St Andrews, the Iberian Peninsula is only a few hours away. I
wanted something different and I had never been to South America before. The St
Andrews-Universidad de la República exchange was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for
me. I wanted something completely new for myself and I wanted to discover it by living
it. A year later, I speak Spanish with an Uruguayan accent and walk around town
carrying my thermos and mate. I am so proud to have lived in such an amazing country.
Leaving Uruguay and my host family was very difficult for me but I do intend on going
back.
The small country of Uruguay has so much to offer but is seldom talked about or
mentioned. Montevideo has a really sociable yet relaxed atmosphere that is impossible to
escape. It is very safe, even walking alone at night. There is always something to see
and do – day or night – no matter what time of year. It is a relatively small city,
especially for being the capital, but it is overflowing with life. It is its friendly people, its
diverse culture, and the little things – the bustle of horsedrawn carritos on the street, the
vibrating sound of el candombe moving through the barrio, the shouts and cheers
echoing thoughout the city when a national football team scores a goal, the weekend
markets – that make Uruguay such a unique place.
Settling In
Settling in was surprisingly easy. Uruguayans are extremely welcoming and la vida
uruguaya is one not difficult to adjust to. There is no indigenous population in Uruguay
and is quite European compared to other countries in South America. It’s easy to blend
in which really helps you get settled and feel at home.
La Universidad de la República
The first two weeks or so of classes will seem a bit overwhelming, but you quickly grow
accustomed to the three-hour classes and before you know it, you’re thinking and
dreaming in Spanish. There are very few other exchange students at la UdelaR (as the
national University is known) which at times made me feel outnumbered, but in the end,
it was really a plus. It forced me to fully immerse myself in Spanish – academically as
well as socially. The professors engage enthusiastic Uruguayan students – young and old
– in lectures that often transition into discussions and debates. The courses I took in
literature and linguistics were all challenging and very enjoyable. Assessments were
usually two exams (parciales) per semester or one final exam at the end. Students at La
República are very politically active, constantly fighting for one thing or another on the
street or commemorating an important day in Uruguayan history.
Spanish Language Skills
Previous to my sub-honours modules at St Andrews, I had studied Spanish for four years
in high school. I was comfortable with my Spanish, but after my year Uruguay, I was a
lot more confident with speaking skills and my reading comprehension had improved
immensely. I finally had the opportunity to apply everything I had learned from the
textbooks to everyday use of the Spanish language. The great thing about studying in
Montevideo is that it isn’t as common for locals to speak English as it is for madrileños,
for example. Uruguay doesn’t receive many tourists and it really forces you to speak in
Spanish until you’re comfortable with it, which doesn’t take very long.
Living with a Host Family
While you have the option of finding a flat if you decide to live on your own, I highly
recommend living with a family. Many St Andrews students have lived with host
families in the past – two in particular – Laura and Dina Zabala. The Carzolio-Zabala
family (Laura’s family), whom I lived with, has been hosting students from all over the
world for nearly a decade now. They live just a few blocks away from the Rambla, right
next to the Río de la Plata. Rent includes cooked meals, laundry, TV, internet and
everything inbetween. They have two sons in their mid-late twenties who live at home,
but are usually out of the house at work or at football practice, so it’s usually just Laura
and her husband Eduardo who are home. During my year abroad, I couldn’t have asked
for better support. Laura and Eduardo played the role of my parents, teachers and closest
friends. Members of the extended family and friends are constantly coming and going;
it’s a fun place to live, full of characters. The family continues to keep in touch with all
their homestays which really says a lot about the impact they’ve made on our lives. They
respect your privacy and accommodate any needs you may have. Their warmth is
genuine and they go beyond treating you like family; they truly welcome you into their
home as one of their own.
The only thing I regret about my year abroad is speaking English at home with
other students. While I only spoke in Spanish with my host family, the Carzolio-Zabala
family takes in a total of four students per semester, so I was living with other exchange
students, most of whom were English speakers. It was comforting to have that kind of
support and to have others with whom I could experience everything for the first time,
but I was not always speaking Spanish. We tried to continue to speak it even among
ourselves, but no matter how hard we tried, we always fell back on the language we were
all most comfortable with. At the same time, some of the other students I was living with
were students in a larger exchange programme at La Universidad la Católica, the private
university in Montevideo, which made meeting people, both foreigners and Uruguayans,
much easier.
Travelling Around Uruguay and South America
I had the opportunity to travel quite a bit during my year abroad. At the end of my first
semester in December, I took a bus to the border between Argentina and Brazil to Iguazú
Falls, and during Semana Santa, I went backpacking in Argentine and Chilean Patagonia.
On long weekends, I had the opportunity to travel within the country. Uruguay’s coast is
dotted with rustic fishing villages that will truly make you appreciate the beauty of
simplicity. I unfortunately never had the chance to go to the interior and stay at an
estancia, but venturing into gaucho territory is a must. Travelling on a student budget can
be done quite comfortably. The most economical and best way to do so is by bus.
Buenos Aires is easily accessible via a three-hour ferry ride for when you need to leave
the country to renew your Uruguayan tourist visa, which is issued at the airport upon
arrival.