DRAFT
During the great winter storms of 2013/2014, the small buttress which made up most
of the first pitch of the next two climbs, and the starting ledge for Original Route, was
destroyed, the remnants of which can be seen below Ash Can Gully. Fortunately the
exciting moves across the recessed gully (common with all three routes) remains. It
could get very friendly on the small belay ledge (The Pulpit Stance), as it is shared by
four routes AND both girdle traverses!
[0]*Dexter Crack##30 metres##Hard Severe~(26.8.37)
Start as for The Buccaneer, below the recessed gully.
1#12m.#4b.#Climb up onto the newly exposed ledge on the right, then up the right
hand side of The Pulpit, making a steep pull onto its top.
2#18m.#Step across the gully and move up to climb the chimney/crack above to the
top.
[0]*Mermaid’s Route##40 metres##Very Difficult~(10.46)
A pleasant line, starting up the small buttress right of the recessed gully before
crossing onto the seaward face to finish up the left side of South-East Buttress. Start
below the slab right of the recessed gully.
1#8m.#Climb the slab and continue up a short crack onto the newly-exposed ledge.
2#9m.#Move up the right edge of the rock scar before traversing left onto The Pulpit.
3#6m.#Step awkwardly across the recessed gully and move left to the half-height
break in the seaward face. Traverse left along the break to a ledge and thread belay.
4#17m.#Climb the large crack to the left on walloping holds.
©Pete Greening
DRAFT