NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 1 North Marina Redevelopment Area History By Larry & Jack O’Donnell NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS PREFACE GENERAL CHRONOLOGY: 1890 TO 2008 LUMBER AND SHINGLE MILLS Fourteenth Street Dock Locations Other Than 14th Street Dock Significant People Notable House of NMRA Lumber Personalities Influence on the Development of Everett COMMERCIAL FISHING INDUSTRY Commercial Fishing Industry Fish Processing Significant People Influence on the Development of Everett BOAT BUILDING Companies Influence on the Development of Everett SPECIAL FEATURES BIBLIOGRAPHY NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 3 PREFACE This report traces the 1890 to 2008 history of the North Marina Redevelopment Area (NMRA), which has been defined as that area east of the Snohomish River channel, north of 17th Street, west of West Marine View Drive, and south of 10th Street. The area also is outlined on an aerial photograph that agrees basically, but not exactly, with the written definition. As authors, we have taken the liberty of using the slightly larger outlined area as our guide. Emphasis is on the history of lumber and shingle mills, boat building and commercial fishing and the influence of those industries on the development of Everett. While we focus on these three industries, we attempted to examine them within the context of general Everett history, and other NMRA development. We are indebted to many for their assistance on this project. First, we must thank the Port of Everett. We were given access to an enormous amount of records, including all the Port Commission meetings minutes from 1918 to the current time. Every Port employee we worked with was helpful, cordial and cooperative. Lisa Lefeber, our main contact, was exceptional and we can’t thank her enough. Jerry Hiller and Jim Weber are among the other employees who were especially helpful. Many people involved in the Everett commercial fishing industry assisted us, but this fishing history would not have been possible without the help of Barbara and Jim Piercey. They were invaluable to the project. David Dilgard and Melinda Van Wingen of the Everett Public Library’s Northwest Room were their usual indispensable selves in locating and sharing information we might not have found anywhere else. Many others deserve thanks but we will close with a note of appreciation to our wives, who were patient, understanding and supportive as we focused on this project. Jack C. O’Donnell Lawrence E. O’Donnell NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 4 NORTH MARINA REDEVELOPMENT AREA (NMRA) GENERAL CHRONOLOGY Everett was launched as a planned city of diversified industries in the early 1890s. Henry Hewitt, a Tacoma industrialist often called the “Father of Everett,” saw the potential of the Port Gardner peninsula where the Snohomish River empties into Puget Sound. His key accomplice in planning a city for the site was East Coast businessman Charles Colby, who had links to other Eastern capitalists, including the richest of all, John D. Rockefeller. In 1890, Hewitt and Colby formed the Everett Land Company with the backing of Rockefeller’s wealth and the city (named for Colby’s son) soon was born. Lured by rumors of Rockefeller money and knowledge that James J. Hill was bringing his Great Northern Railway across the West to Puget Sound, people swarmed to Everett. The peninsula, which may have had three dozen residents in 1890, had a population of several thousand by the end of 1892. The four major industries were a nail works, a shipyard, a smelter, and a pulp and paper mill. None of these was located in what is now called the North Marina Redevelopment Area (West Marine Drive to the Snohomish River channel between 9th and 18th streets). The only development in that area was the 14th Street Dock, which became a site for wood products industries. Croatians and Norwegians who would become Everett pioneer commercial fishermen were among the early arrivals, but their base for activity would not be in the North Marina Redevelopment Area (NMRA) until the 1940s, when the construction of a World War II shipyard would force them out of their previous location. Everett’s early boom period ended when an 1893 financial panic swept the country and Rockefeller pulled his resources out of the city. Essentially, Everett would struggle through economic doldrums the remainder of the decade. In the early 1900s, Everett re-emerged. Under the leadership of James J. Hill, who always thought the area’s future was in the wood products business, Everett was transformed into a mill town. Hill bought the Everett Land Company from Rockefeller and formed the Everett Improvement Company. Lumber and shingle mills had existed in the 1890s, but now Everett’s economy shifted to one based almost entirely on the processing of timber. Soon mills lined the bay front and river front. Everett proudly hailed itself the “City of Smokestacks.” Thousands migrated to Everett and the city population grew from 7,838 in 1900 to 24,814 in 1910, a 216 percent increase. In the NMRA, several mills were added to 14th Street Dock and the huge Clough-Hartley shingle mill opened at 18th Street on the bay front. Boat building companies operated on the waterfront at this time but not in the NMRA. Also, fish processing had begun, but no plant would be in the NMRA until the 1940s. Everett’s lumber industry provided much of the wood products to rebuild San Francisco after the devastating 1906 earthquake and fire. Shortly thereafter, Everett suffered with the rest of the nation through a 1907 national fiscal crisis. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 5 Population growth slowed during the 1910-1920 period, but mills continued to be added in the city. The NMRA saw the addition of three large plants along Norton Avenue (name later changed to West Marine View Drive). There were the C-B Lumber and Shingle Company at 9th Street, Jamison Lumber and Shingle Company at 10th Street, and the Fred K. Baker Lumber Company at 12th Street. The latter would become the Hulbert Mill Company by the decade’s end. The decade was marked by the 1916 episode known as the Everett Massacre. At least seven were killed and many others wounded in this City Dock shootout between the Industrial Workers of the World (also known as the Wobblies) and the Snohomish County sheriff and his citizen deputies. Although the Massacre did not occur in the NMRA, roots for the conflict can be found in a shingle weaver’s strike/lockout that included several NMRA shingle mills. The nation became involved in World War I shortly after the Everett Massacre. That stimulated production in the wood products industries, including Everett’s mills. In 1918 citizens voted to form the Port of Everett. This took Everett’s harbor out of the hands of publicspirited bodies and municipal government and placed it clearly under the control of a governmental agency created specifically for that purpose. The NMRA was in the Port District from the very beginning and by 2008, the Port of Everett owned most of the property in the NMRA. Everett’s mills struggled through the early 1920s and then flourished in mid-decade. A major Japanese earthquake in 1923 created a huge market for wood products. Much of the material came out of Everett plants. Many downtown Everett buildings, such as the Monte Cristo Hotel, Medical Dental Building, and Central Building were erected during this prosperous time. Everett’s official population did not increase significantly but this was a bit misleading; several areas to the south that eventually would be in the city limits were growing. The fishing industry took a major step forward in 1928 when local fishermen helped organize their Fishermen’s Packing Corporation. But that plant, the nearby American Packing Plant, and the home base for the fishing vessels themselves were still located south of the NMRA. The William Hulbert Mill Company built a large structure for casket manufacturing next to its North Marina Area mill. By the end of the 1920s, the number of shingle mills was beginning a long decline that would see those plants eventually disappear from the North Marina Area. Obsolete machinery, competition from composition roofing and difficulty in getting quality red cedar all contributed to the decline. The once mighty Clough-Hartley shingle mill closed its doors in 1929. Everett’s industries suffered along with the rest of the nation during the Great Depression of the 1930s. The number of shingle mills on 14th Street Dock dwindled to one by 1937. Other NMRA mills faced difficult times but all survived the decade. Two new pulp mills were built on the bay front south of the NMRA. These, along with the huge Everett Pulp and Paper Company in Lowell, gave Everett a new “Pulp City” title. During this period, the Port of Everett purchased more property along the Everett waterfront. The Fishermen’s Packing Corporation was relocated to Anacortes in 1938 and the fishing fleet moved to a new location in Tract O, south of the NMRA. This was NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 6 the final relocation before the move to the 14th Street Dock area the next decade. The NMRA was marked by change in the 1940s. With the onset of World War II, Tract O was taken over by the U.S. Navy and a huge shipyard was built on the site. This prompted a move of the commercial fishing fleet to 14th Street Dock. New docks were created for the boats and a new structure was built for the net sheds. Fish processing also appeared for the first time in the NMRA, when a building was erected next to the net sheds for the Bozeman Canning Company. Fisherman’s Boat Shop, an important support facility to commercial fishing, relocated to the North Marina Area, as well. During this period, the movement started to shift pleasure boat moorage from the waters between Piers 1 and 2 to the 14th Street Dock Basin. The Port filled the area north from the 14th Street Dock to about 12th Street, leaving the old dock the southern boundary of an earthen fill. The war created a market for the wood products of the mills, but the mill experienced a labor shortage. The military took much of the potential work force. The problem was compounded by the fact workers could earn more in industries like Boeing and the new Everett Naval Shipyard. Finally, the federal government dealt with the issue by “freezing” people on their jobs - in other words, not allowing workers to change from one company to another. After the war concluded in 1945, the Port of Everett increased the earth fill in the NMRA. This effort continued over the next several decades. The 1950s brought more change. The transformation of the 14 th Street Basin into a pleasure boat marina, as well as a home for the fishing fleet, progressed. Morris, Inc., which built both commercial and pleasure boats, was established in the 14 th Street Dock area. Bozeman Canning had become the Everett Fish Company by 1957 and had a booming seafood processing business. The mills, on the other hand, were experiencing various fates. The Hulbert mill was fatally crippled by a major fire in 1956. C-B Lumber sold out to the Summit Timber Company in mid-decade. Jamison continued to pump out prodigious amounts of shingles and Super Shingle (later Super Mill) was the only remaining mill on the 14th Street Dock site. Meanwhile, the Port of Everett was leasing out increasing portions of the 14th Street fill to various businesses. By the end of the decade, the Port had leases with at least 10 different companies in the North Marina Area. One of these was with Columbia Veneer, which established one of the first particle board factories in the Pacific Northwest. The 1960s were momentous years in Everett. The Boeing Company established an enormous aircraft manufacturing plant in south Everett. Boeing’s arrival occurred at a time wood products industries were declining. Almost overnight, the city shifted from a mill town economy to one largely dependent on the aircraft industry. This was the decade when the lumber and shingle industry virtually disappeared from the NMRA. The Super Mill plant closed in 1962, bringing a conclusion to 70 years of 14 th Street shingle mills. Summit Mill Company moved its plant to Darrington. Fires claimed the old Jamison plant and the closed Pilchuck and Lumber Company in 1967. Columbia Veneer shut down after just a few years of operation. Hulbert Mill was gone but casket NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 7 manufacturing remained on the site. Morris, Inc. concluded its boat building operation during the decade. After demolishing the vacant Super Mill plant, which it had purchased, the Port developed the 14th Street Basin (south of the dock fill) into a large, modern marina, with around 950 slips for commercial and pleasure craft. The separate section for the fishing fleet was expanded and improved. The new marina was called Everett Yacht Basin and it was nearly 100 percent occupied by 1966. The old basin between Piers 1 and 2 was phased out and the Everett Yacht Club itself moved to the NMRA in 1968. It was located on the approximate site of what had once been the end of 14th Street Dock. Everett Fish Company expanded in 1964, and the number of firms leasing in the NMRA remained about the same. Improvements continued at the Everett Yacht Basin in the 1970s. By 1972, facilities existed for 180 commercial fishing boats and 822 pleasure boats. Five years later more area was being filled to the south of the Everett Yacht Basin. It would be used in a few years to expand the marina. Meanwhile, the commercial fishing industry was in the early stages of a downturn that would see the number of vessels decline dramatically the next few decades. The sale of the Everett Fish Company was the beginning of ownership changes that would see that fish processing plant cease operations in the 1990s. Tidewater Plywood, the last of the wood products mills, left by the early 1970s. The casket manufacturing was down to a fraction of its earlier production. Despite the general decrease in some of the long established industries, the number of businesses in the NMRA grew sharply during the decade. By 1979, more than 20 firms operated businesses on the site. One of these was Cruise-A-Home, which bucked the Area’s decline in boat building by producing a unique fiberglass pleasure craft. Many of the 1979 firms were related to the boat and marine industries and a few like Dunlap Industrial Hardware and Churchill Brothers Marine Canvas Products are still there in 2008. Significant changes occurred in the NMRA during the 1980s. By 1982, the Port of Everett had extended the Everett Yacht Basin to the south. The expanded yacht basin could accommodate more than 2,000 recreational boats and commercial fishing craft. The fishermen had their separate floats in the marina’s southeast corner. On the earthen fill that had been created to form the southern boundary of the yacht basin, a new Marina Village opened in 1984. This development included a mix of restaurants, shops - and a year later, a motel. Now, one could enjoy at Anthony’s Homeport a salmon dinner on very nearly the same site the Clough-Hartley plant had pumped out millions of shingles. In the northwest corner of the North Marina, a launching facility for small boats was developed, with ample room for patrons to park their boat trailers. Along 10th Street and the area where it reaches West Marine View Drive (formerly Norton Avenue), entrepreneur John Schack developed an industrial complex of six buildings, which housed several different businesses. By 1989, nearly 40 firms occupied buildings in the NMRA. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 8 The NMRA got a new neighbor to the south when Naval Station Everett opened in 1994. The Port of Everett had sold 110 acres to the Navy to provide this new military installation. The navy station was, undoubtedly, the biggest physical change ever on the city waterfront. Two long time North Marina Area industries closed in the 1990s, the casket operation and the Olympic Fish company (the final fish processor). The number of fishermen and vessels diminished under the pressure of dwindling fish runs, government regulations and escalating costs of operation. The total number of firms in the NMRA continued to increase and diversify. By decade end, more than 65 different companies operated in the NMRA. They covered the gamut from restaurants to machine shops. A few, like Puget Sound Truck Lines, Fishermen’s Boat Shop, Everett Engineering, Inc. and American Boiler Works had been there since the 1960s. Many of the companies, such as Performance Marine and Harbor Marine Maintenance, offered services and products directly related to recreational and commercial boating With the arrival of the 21st century, the NMRA had matured into a marina and boat launching facility surrounded by a variety of businesses, industries and recreational amenities. Another marina was created in 2007 with the opening of the 12 th Street Yacht Basin. This new facility accommodates 220 boats, ranging in length from 40 to 70 feet, with end ties for vessels up to 143 feet long. The main yacht basin was now the largest public marina on the West Coast with a capacity of about 2,300 boats, including guest moorage. Important changes were underway on the northern portion of the old 14th Street fill. The Port broke ground on Port Gardner Wharf in 2007. The combined residential and commercial development will usher in an exciting new era for the NMRA. It’s been quite a ride since the 1890s days of the lonely 14th Street Dock. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 9 LUMBER AND SHINGLE MILLS Fourteenth Street Dock Fourteenth Street Dock was the City of Everett’s first man-made structure on the site defined in the early 21st century as the North Marina Redevelopment Area (NMRA). Built in 1892 by the Everett Land Company, the wooden wharf extended 2,000 feet due west from the shoreline over the Port Gardner Bay tidelands. It lined up approximately not exactly - with 14th Street, an east-west road at the top of the bluff above the dock. The foot of the wharf was next to the Seattle Montana Railroad that had been completed from Fairhaven (Bellingham) to Seattle in 1891. A Great Northern Railway enterprise, the Seattle Montana had the important role of giving the Great Northern access to Puget Sound cities when the latter’s line from St. Paul, Minnesota to Everett was completed on January 6, 1893. Great Northern president James J. Hill described Great Northern as the handle and Seattle Montana as the rake. A portion of the rake, in the form of a railroad spur, was extended out on the 14 th Street Dock. Thus, industries on the dock would have direct connection with the vast Great Northern network. Early drawings (including the widely circulated 1893 “Birdseyeview of Everett, Washington” by the Brown’s Land and Engineering Company) and at least one photograph show an incline roadway that ran easterly from the dock, crossed high over the Seattle Montana line and connected with 14th Street at the top of the high bank in the area. Just east of the bluff’s edge, 14th Street intersects with Grand Avenue, which is shown on the Brown map as extending north from Everett’s bayside settlement, around the Port Gardner peninsula and then south again to reach Everett’s riverside section. In addition, 14th Street is shown as a rudimentary road that meanders southeasterly until it reaches Broadway in the middle portion of the new community. In other words, the incline ramp was a connector between the dock and virtually every section of the fledgling city. The Brown map shows no other way to reach the dock except by rail or boat. Also, the incline may have served as a route for getting freshly cut timber from the peninsula to the waterfront. Newspaper accounts from the era relate that loggers were busily harvesting the estimated 10 million feet of standing timber at the north end of the peninsula. Newspaper accounts indicate the incline was not an original part of the dock construction; it was added in late 1892 after the first dock industries had started. Jutting nearly a half mile over the tide flats with its steep bridge way to the bluff top, the dock must have been a striking, albeit strange sight. It was an entity to itself with no nearby development except the rail line. It is said that localites laughed at the structure, referring to it and its first mills as the “Light House.” There was rationale, however, for the dock design. In their 1973 Historical Survey of the Everett Shoreline, David Dilgard and Margaret Riddle point out “…it was purposely situated a great distance from the mainland with the intention of creating a bulkhead under the dock as Hewitt’s St. Paul NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 10 and Tacoma Company had done on similar land in Tacoma.” The first industry appeared at the west end of the dock in September of 1892. It was a sawmill owned by the Everett Land Company and leased to James E. Bell, who would become one of Everett’s leading citizens in subsequent years. The mill had the capacity of producing 25,000 feet of lumber in a 10 hours shift. A few weeks later, the Belloperated plant was joined by the Neff and Mish Shingle Mill. This plant, owned and operated by S.S. Neff and W.W. Mish, was located on the north side of the wharf approximately half way out. It employed 30 men and could produce 250,000 shingles per day. This made it the largest of the four shingle mills in Everett at the time. Neff and Mish made history on March 23, 1893 when 40 boxcars of shingles rolled out of the mill on to the main railroad tracks. Pulled by two large locomotives, this train was the first to travel eastward from Puget Sound the full length of the Great Northern’s new line to Minneapolis. Each car was decorated with a large canvas sign describing the cargo. The words “From Everett, Wash.” were painted in two-foot-high letters. About this same time, reports surfaced in the Everett Herald newspaper about a cannery and a pulley factory that would be built on or adjacent to the 14 th Street Dock. An April 6, 1893 article described the cannery as being constructed on the south side of the dock between the shingle mill and the sawmill. Two weeks later the Herald reported the cannery building was nearing completion and the pulley factory building, just west of the sawmill, had been completed. The cannery would process fish and meat; the latter was to come from nearby “proposed stockyards.” The pulley company would manufacture their products for use in the mills. The record is sketchy as to whether either of these plants ever operated or if one or both were early victims of the financial panic that soon would devastate Everett. In the 1894-95 Polk City Directory for Everett, there is no reference to the cannery or the pulley factory. By late 1893, the United States was amidst the worst financial depression it ever had experienced and the boomtown days of early Everett had ended. Disillusioned by the flow of millions of dollars from his pockets to a project he now considered ill conceived, John D. Rockefeller began a long process to extract himself from Everett. Hewitt was out as the Everett Land Company president as Rockefeller sought to fill local leadership positions with men in whom he had utmost trust. It would be the end of the decade before Rockefeller would unload the final remnants of the Land Company. In the intervening years, Everett struggled through a fiscal morass that had few bright spots. The Neff and Mish operation was known as the Lebanon Cedar Shingle Company, with W.W Mesh as president, by the end of 1893. The company was bankrupt in the spring of 1896 and sold at a sheriff’s auction April 14 of that year to pay off a $9,702.04 mortgage. It was then leased by the Everett National Bank to a firm known as Metcalf and Wade. At some point near the turn of the century, the mill was taken over by Tacoman E.J. McNeeley, who also operated a shingle mill farther south on the Everett bay front. By 1901, the old Neff and Mish site was labeled E.J. McNeeley’s Shingle Mill NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 11 No.1 on that year’s Sanborn Insurance Atlas. Meanwhile, the Everett Land Company sawmill ceased operation in mid-October of 1895. James Bell, the original lessee, left to build a new mill on the waterfront between Pacific Avenue and 33rd Street. It was a risky move that eventually paid dividends when Bell and his partner A.O. Nelson sold the plant to the Weyerhaeuser Timber Company in 1902. It was the first of several Everett Weyerhaeuser mills and set the stage for Weyerhaeuser being the city’s largest employer for decades. None of the plants was in the NMRA. There is however, a remnant of the Weyerhaeuser Company in the Area. Several years ago, the former office building, which had been built to showcase various types of lumber, was moved from the old Mill B river site to a location at 18 th Street and West Marine View Drive. In 1896, M.J. Darling, who had been in the Everett shingle business since 1892, leased the old Land Company mill. A year later the mill was known as the Gauslin and Garthley Lumber Company. With J.D. Gauslin and W.T. Garthley as the principal officers, it began operation in July 1897. By 1900, the plant included a sawmill that could cut 40,000 feet of lumber per day and a shingle mill with a daily capacity of 100,000. Gauslin and Garthley met the fate of many early mills when it burned on December 19, 1902. The Everett Land Company mill and Neff and Mish were precedent-setting in at least two ways. First, they clearly set the pattern for 14th Street dock as a site for mills. Virtually every industry on the dock from its inception in 1892 until its demise decades later was a mill, and almost all were shingle mills. Second, the two plants illustrated the tumultuous nature of the wood products industry, particularly the shingle business. The only predictability was unpredictability. Prices for raw material or finished products could soar one week and plummet the next. Small time shingle operations were relatively expensive to build; in good times the small operators joined the other firms in shingle production. The result was a flood on the market and a plunge in prices. In this fickle feast or famine environment, fortunes could be made or lost in short order. Many companies came and went. On 14th Street Dock, the turnover of owners and operators was a way of life. From 1892, until there were just two mills in the 1940s, 31 different mill names are shown in the Polk City Directories as 14th Street Dock firms. Considering there were never more than seven mills at any one time, it is indicative of the frequent ownership changes and volatility of the business. Everett was jolted out of its economic doldrums in 1900 when James J. Hill, the Great Northern Empire Builder, purchased from Rockefeller the ebbing assets of the Everett Land Company. Hill’s agenda was singular. He would transform Everett into a mill town and he would ship the finished products to markets on his railroad. He replaced the old Land Company with the Everett Improvement Company and installed his trusted confidant John T. McChesney as the president. Under McChesney’s leadership, the Everett transformation was remarkable. Along with Hill, he recruited some of the Midwest’s leading lumbermen to Everett where they would open and operate mills. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 12 Foremost among these was Frederick Weyerhaeuser, probably the country’s most highly regarded timber company operator at the time. Although Weyerhaeuser located in Tacoma, he opened his first mill in Everett and then added several more. Significant Everett arrivals included David Clough, former governor of Minnesota, and his son-inlaw Roland Hartley. The two would become leaders among the community’s lumber barons. Mills sprang up along the Everett waterfront. Workers and their families swarmed in. The city’s population tripled from around 8,000 in 1900 to nearly 25,000 in 1910. Fourteenth Street Dock was a beneficiary of the new timber-fueled growth. In 1902, the wharf had its original two mills, now Gauslin and Garthley and E.J. McNeeley, plus two new ones. The C.E. Russell Shingle Mill was west of McNeeley on the north side of the dock. The Carpenter Brothers Shingle Mill, which may have been preceded by a firm named Faulkin and Gray, was on the south side of the dock, about two thirds of the way out. Peter, John, Matthew, and Chris Carpenter were listed as proprietors. In 1904, the Mann Shingle Company opened. It was located just west of Russell on the same side of the dock. Everett wasn’t quite the “greatest shingle producing town in the whole world”, as touted by the city’s Daily Independent newspaper, but it did rank fourth among Washington cities as a producer of lumber and shingles by this time. In 1906, the Carlson Brothers Mill, the Everett Shingle Company, the Cavelero Mill Company, and the Lundgren-Swanson Mill Company are first noted as 14th Street Dock operations. The Carlsons had been operating the McNeeley plant. After it was destroyed by fire, one of the brothers, Olof, bought Mr. McNeeley’s interests and established a new shingle mill on the site. The Everett Shingle Mill also was on the north side of the dock, but closer to shore. The Cavelero mill seemed to be a successor to the Bay Mill Company and the Auld-Cavelero, which appeared to have taken over the Gauslin and Garthley location after the 1902 fire. Dominic Cavelero was unique in that he may have been the only person of Italian descent to operate a 14 th Street Dock mill. Lundgren-Swanson had taken over the former Carpenter Brothers site. In 1906, six of Everett’s nine shingle mills were on 14th Street Dock. The approximately 175 employees in these six mills could produce more than one million shingles a day. While this was an impressive amount, it was only about 10 percent of the nearly 11,000,000 shingles cut daily in Snohomish County’s 99 shingle mills. There were more changes in 1907. Lundgren-Swanson became just Lundgren. The Northwest Manufacturing Company, a shingle mill, opened on the south side of the dock close to shore. This brought the total mills (all shingle) to seven, a number at which it stayed the next two years. Records from the Polk City directories indicate this was the greatest number of mills at any one time. While the numbers remained the same, there were changes in 1908 and 1909. The Beach Mill Company took over Russell in 1909 and then disappeared a year later. Neil Jamison bought Lundgren and expanded the mill’s capacity to 300,000 shingles a day. In his early twenties at the time, Jamison was on his way to becoming an Everett lumber legend. David Clough opened the NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 13 Hartley Shingle Company, which carried the name of his son-in-law. Maps from that period era suggest that the Hartley plant was on the old Russell Mill location. One of the era’s mysteries is the fate of the incline from the dock to the top of the bank. Maps from the period are inconclusive. A 1901 Sanborn Atlas shows an “Old Inclined Roadway to Top of Bluff” but it appears to be crossed out. Yet a map in a 1902 Everett Chamber of commerce publication suggests the incline was still there. Of further interest and confusion, the Sanborn map references a hog pen, old slaughter house and feeding stalls under the incline. Could this have been the “proposed stockyards” mentioned in the 1893 Herald article as supplying meat for the cannery? Frank Platt, a retired Everett businessman whose memories of the area go back to about 1920, does not remember any such incline roadway during his lifetime. Platt, in 2008, did recall Russ Farrington, former shingle mill owner, talking about such a structure. But it remains a mystery as to when it was removed. Fire was the scourge of the early mills and the 14th Street Dock plants suffered their share. In addition to the 1902 Gauslin and Garthley conflagration and the later blaze at McNeeleys, there were at least two other serious fires from 1900 to 1910. A 1907 blaze at the Carlson Brothers destroyed two million shingles and prompted the fire department to ask the city to purchase a larger fire engine. A year later Lundgren lost four kilns and two and a half million shingles to a major blaze. After this, there was discussion about acquisition of a fireboat for protection of waterfront mills. On another occasion a freak accident occurred as Fire Chief Sam Grafton was racing his horse and buggy to a fire. In his 1992 book The Fire Boys: 100 Years of Everett Firefighting History, author Charles Henderson explains that a yapping dog startled the horse, resulting in the chief, horse and buggy careening off the elevated dock roadway and sailing 12 feet to the tide flats below. The buggy was wrecked; the horse only scratched; and the chief survived with a sore head and no broken bones. The fire was reportedly extinguished with a bucket of water. After peaking at seven mills, 1907 through 1909, the dock maintained between four and six mills for most of the next decade, with ownership and name changes being the norm. Some firms, like the Everett Shingle Company (1906-1923), Hartley Shingle Company (1909-1925), and Everbest Shingle Company (1916-1929) were exceptions. Other names such as the Mattson Mill Company appeared one year (1910) and disappeared the next. At least two operators left the dock to relocate on nearby bay front sites. Carlson Brothers was gone by 1911 but former president Olof Carlson shows up in 1914 as an officer in the C-B mill located between 9th and 10th streets on the bay front. In 1913, Neil Jamison organized the Jamison Mill Company, which by 1916 was located at 10th Street, just south of the C-B. The Cargo Shingle Company, with Jamison as president, continued to operate on the 14th Street Dock until 1919. There also was the Everett Mutual Mill Company (1916-1920) but the record is clouded as to its location. Some companies appear as brief successors to earlier firms and then vanish. Shull Lumber and Shingle Company, for example, bought Carlson Brothers mill in 1912 NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 14 and then was gone in 1914. Another instance of quick change occurred on the Northwest Manufacturing Company site. It was Northwest from 1907-09, White Brothers in 1911 and Snohomish Lumber Company from 1913 to 1917. Since the Polk City Directories list W.B. White and R.H. White as officers in the latter two companies, it could be the firms were one and the same. During this period, Everett shingle manufacturing reached new highs, and a substantial number of those shingles were being cut at 14th Street Dock mills. The 1912 Polk City Directory stated that Everett produced 6,055,000 shingles each day. The 1916 Directory heralded Everett as “the leading lumber, logging and shingle center of the Northwest, in fact, it might be said of the entire world. The daily capacity of the shingles mills is 4.5 million.” While it took a unique breed of men to run the shingle mills, the same could be said about the men who worked in them. Jobs in the mills were tough and dangerous. Men pushed hunks of red cedar through huge circular saws, smaller shingle saws and finally trimmer saws. The shingle saws could be set to cut nearly a shingle a second and each had to be cleared over the saw by hand. One slip and a finger, hand, arm - or a life, could be gone. With the sawyer handling 30,000 shingles in his 10-hour shift, slips were inevitable. Once the shingles were trimmed, they were dropped down a chute to be packed into bundles. A skilled packer worked with such speed, he appeared to be “weaving” the shingles together. The “shingle weaver” label originated from this activity and became the generic term for shingle mill workers. In addition to the relentless, hazardous tasks, the men were exposed constantly to cedar dust that filled the air. The intake of dust resulted in a cedar asthma that broke the health of many a worker. And, the workers, like their bosses, were at the mercy of a vacillating business. A slide into an economic downturn and the job was gone, at least temporarily. The shingle weavers exhibited a special blend of fearlessness, toughness, manual dexterity - and pride. A quiet pride in their ability to beat the odds and succeed in a foreboding environment. They were the top echelon of mill workers and their pay was frequently double that of saw mill employees. Shingle weavers worked hard and, in many cases, played hard. There is morbidly humorous tale of the shingle weaver bursting into the saloon with his buddies, thrusting up his arm, extending the two remaining fingers on his hand and shouting, “Five beers for us!” The shingle weavers usually were at odds with the mill owners and the friction between them was a root of a socio-economic class war that characterized the community. Clough, Hartley and other lumber kings built mansions on the bluff overlooking their waterfront empire. Each day, workers trudged by these palatial homes hoping they, the workers, might someday have enough to afford a small cottage on a 25-foot lot. It was easy for the shingle weavers to muse that their sweat and blood had given the mill NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 15 owners their millions with little in return. A shingle weavers union was organized in 1901. Everett was a strong union town and the shingle weavers union became the largest and most militant group in the Trades Council. The shingle weavers union fought, sometimes successfully, for higher wages, improved working conditions and shorter workday. The mill owners, aware of their own vulnerability in a violently cyclical business, generally resisted the union. The owners had taken the capital risk and were reluctant to enter into labor agreements that might increase their risk and diminish their control. The shingle labor and management war reached it zenith in 1916. The shingle weavers union went on strike when the owners were unwilling to reinstate a higher wage scale. The union cited a mill owners’ promise to restore the 1914 wage scale when shingle prices rose again. Prices had risen but David Clough was adamant that the wage adjustment was not justified. His mills, he claimed, had not made any money in two and a half years. The strike drug on and became violent after some mill owners brought in strikebreakers. Hostilities rose to a new level when the Industrial Workers of the World (IWW), to the dismay of the mill owners and the shingle weavers union, injected themselves into the fray. Better known as the Wobblies, the IWW men swarmed to Everett, to preach for a radical worker revolution that far exceeded the shingle weavers demand for higher wages. On a downtown street corner they called for the laboring class to rise in opposition to the immoral capitalists who controlled their lives. When the Wobblies began to be arrested and/or run out of town for their activities, their issue became “free speech” and the town’s attention turned to the sheriff and his mill owner citizen deputies battle with the IWW. After a particularly violent episode when a group of Wobblies was run out of town and beaten by the sheriff and his cohorts, a large group of Wobblies returned en mass by boat to Everett. They were met at the Everett City Dock by the sheriff and his deputized crew of mill owner supporters. There was a verbal confrontation and a shot - from which side was never determined - rang out. More shots followed from both sides and when they ended at least seven were dead (two of the dock crew and five Wobblies) and many others were wounded. The most infamous event in Everett’s history, it would become known as the Everett Massacre. The community was shattered and a degree of normalcy wasn’t restored until the city, along with the rest of the nation, turned its attention to America’s entry into the war in Europe. The Everett Massacre did not occur in the NMRA but there is no question that seeds for the episode can be traced to the waterfront shingle mills, including those on the 14th Street Dock. Certainly, the innate conflict between the shingle mill workers and the mill owners did not end with the Everett Massacre. The tension between the two would persist until both the mills and the shingle weavers union disappeared decades later. The number of mills on 14th Street Dock held steady at five through most of the 1920s but there were the usual changes of ownership and/or names. Everbest lasted until the end of the decade. The fact that Walter Mann was an officer first in the Mann Shingle Company and then Everbest, suggests that Everbest may have been a successor to NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 16 Mann. David Clough died in 1924 and the Hartley Shingle Mill operated for about a year after that. Interestingly, a Clough Shingle Mill is listed in the 1923 through 1925 City Directories as a 14th Street Dock mill with David’s nephew H.J. Clough as manager. It is unclear if these were separate companies or one firm owned by the Clough/Hartley interests. Other operations, such as the Edwards Mill Company and the Justrite Shingle Company, arrived and left within two years. They may have been affiliated, or perhaps, the same company; J.D. Johnson was an officer in both. After the Everett Shingle Company disappeared in 1923, its president E.L. Bishop emerged as the president of Monarch Mill company, which lasted from 1929 to 1932. The Everett Lumber and Shingle Company is first shown in the 1925 City Directory and lasts until 1935. In 1929, the five dock mills, according to the City Directory, were Everbest Shingle Company, Everett Lumber and Shingle Company, Justrite Shingle Company, Monarch Mill Company and the newly arrived Super Shingle company, which was on the old Jamison site. F.R. Faller is listed as the first Super Shingle president, but a few years later Olof Carlson held that title. The end of the 1920s also is marked by the arrival of a business other than a wood products mill. The Dan Lewis Towing Company relocated from Pier 3 to the west end of the dock. This tow boat company was operated by L. Daniel Lewis, who with his wife Goldabell, is shown in the 1928-29 City Directory as residing at the dock. After Mr. Lewis’ death in the late 1930s, Goldabell is listed as the proprietor of the firm. She may have been the only female head of a 14th Street Dock company in history. It appears she later married Alva Walker, who then headed up the towing company. Dan Lewis Towing disappeared from City Directories after 1944. Frank Platt, who played in the 14th Street dock area as youngster, remembered the west end of the Dock for a different reason. A retired Everett businessman in 2008, Platt recalled the great fishing at the site of Dan Lewis Towing. “That’s where the sewer pipe emptied into the bay,” stated Platt. “That was rich water. We caught a lot of pogies there.” Bonner Wilson, who was slightly older than Platt, recalled swimming in a bay spot he called “14th Street Basin”. Hopefully, it was some distance from Dan Lewis Towing. By the end of the 1920s there was no doubt the 14th Street Dock shingle industry was in a downhill spiral. Most of the plants had obsolete machinery that made competition with new mills difficult. Additionally, the entire red cedar shingle business was being challenged by the composition shingle. The composition roofs on some of the shingle mills were blunt evidence of this reality. If this weren’t enough, then came the Great Depression of the 1930s, which left but one mill, Super Shingle, on the dock. A firm called Everett Shake and Shingle emerged in 1944 but was there for just four years. As the last survivor, Super Shingle, later know as Super Mill Company, set the record for longevity. M.J. Willett and Fred Tilley, who had been with the mill since its 1929 inception, sold the firm to Russ Farrington about 1948. The mill’s address was still NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 17 shown as 14th Street Dock but, in fact, it was no longer a dock. The area to the north had been filled by 1944. Super sat on the southern edge of a landfill. One could drive out 13th Street and see “14th Street Dock’s” one remaining shingle mill. Farrington said the “shingle business was crazy” but he held on for a decade and a half. On one occasion, the collapse of the pilings beneath the old dock area made it impossible to get railroad cars to the mill. The railroad was needed for shipping out shingles so Farrington prevailed on the Great Northern trainmaster for help. Farrington said about three hundred workers were there in two days to fix the problem. By 1960, Super was being criticized by boat owners, fishermen and others because of the cinders created by the mill’s incinerator. Also, the Port of Everett was eager to remove the mill and expand the 14th Street Yacht Basin. In 1962, Farrington finally gave in. He sold to the Port of Everett, which soon demolished the old plant and embarked on the marina expansion. The man who had earned the title “Shingles” and the final shingle mill were gone from 14th Street. In terms of individual longevity, Charles J. Melby may hold the record. In the period from 1907 to 1947, he is listed in the City Directories as an officer in three different 14th Street Dock mills. Melby’s daughter, Myrtle Lowthian, provided insights into the life of a shingle mill executive and his family in an April 26, 1983 Everett Herald article. Lowthian said she and her six brothers and sisters “quickly learned that their fortunes were woven with the forest economy, a series of ‘lumbermen’s depressions’ to sink into, endure and rise above.” She continued, “We lived high on the hog with every kid having a bicycle or depressed.” During one downturn, the family turned to raising chickens; another time they made fishing sinkers in the basement and sold them in Seattle. At one point Melby bought a huge house at 3504 Norton Avenue for his wife and seven children. Another downturn and he was forced to sell the place, along with the plans for converting it into four apartments. Eventually, Melby invented and patented a machine that “scratched” shingles so they could be used as a decorative siding. According to Russ Farrington, Melby made the machines, leased them out and got royalties. “Finally U.S. Plywood used the machines to scratch veneer,” said Farrington. He tried to sue them but found his patent wasn’t worth anything.” Ever resilient, Melby continued to play golf until he was 83 and lived to the age of 89. There is little left in 2008 to remind us of the 14 th Street Dock. The area to the south has been developed into the largest public marina on the West Coast. To the north, a large residential/commercial complex will soon be under construction. There is, however, evidence of the past for the astute observer. On 14th Street, about 50 yards west of West Marine View Drive, there are in the asphalt two parallel lines of bumps, each about an inch in height and a foot across. The lines each run for about 100 yards and are about 12 feet apart. From east to west, it is about 15 feet between each of the bumps. These small raised areas are caused by the pilings that once supported 14 th Street Dock. The tops of the pilings are below the surface and have become more noticeable as the asphalt slowly settles. It’s a faint reminder of days gone by. If those pilings could talk, think of the stories they could tell. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 18 Lumber and Shingle Mills in Locations Other Than 14th Street NMRA mills were of three types: lumber mills, shingles mills, or combination lumber and shingle mills. Essentially, the mill employees fell into two categories; they were either saw mill or shingle mill workers. The sawmills tended to be larger operations with a greater variety of tasks. In the shingle mill, bolts of cedar were cut into shingles and then dried. In a sawmill, entire logs entered the plant and then were processed into lumber of varying sizes and shapes. A mechanized chain pulled the log from a pond manned by skilled boom men, who nimbly jumped from log to log. Other men debarked the log, as it started its way through the mill. Another crew controlled the huge saw that trimmed off the large butt end. Now, the debarked and trimmed timber made its way on another mechanized chain to a large band saw known as the head rig. The head sawyer operated this device and in the early days actually moved with the log as it was guided through the saw. The head sawyer had the critical task of slicing slabs off the timber to square it up for further cuts. He was responsible for getting the most lumber possible from the log and often he was the highest paid laborer in the mill. Once the timber had been shaped into a square sided piece called a cant, men fed it length wise through gang saws that sliced the cant into boards. Again, conveyed by chains, the boards came under the careful eye of the trimmer man, who, through mechanical means, dropped the small circular saws that trimmed the lumber into the desired lengths. Graders then assessed the quality of the lumber and placed a chalk mark grade on each piece. Now, the lumber traveled out on an apparatus called the green chain (because it was green - or un-dried lumber) where a crew of men pulled the pieces off the chain and onto carts. Each cart held lumber of a specific dimension. Green chain work was grueling and relentless; many considered it the hardest job in the mill. Once a cart was full, workmen guided it to at kiln where the lumber was subjected to its final process, that of being dried for use. C-B Lumber and Shingle Company The names of Olof Carlson and George Bergstrom, who eventually became the C and the B of this waterfront enterprise, first appear in the Everett City Directories about the same time. Born in Sweden in 1860, Olof Carlson spent time in Portland and Tacoma before coming to Everett with his brothers August and David to run the E.J. McNeeley and Company mill on 14th Street Dock. After the mill burned, Olof Carlson purchased McNeeley’s interest and reopened the plant as Carlson Brothers in 1906. He remained president until 1912, sold the plant to the Shull Lumber Company and took an extended trip to Europe. In the meantime, George A. Bergstrom, residence shown as San Francisco, is listed in the 1907 City Directory as the president of the Mukilteo Shingle Company and vice-president of Pacific Timber Company. The latter, with offices in downtown Everett, is described as a “wholesaler of lumber and shingles.” In the 1909 directory Bergstrom is listed as a traveling salesman living in Everett. That same year he partnered with his brother-in-law W.R. Cunningham, Jr. to open the C-B Shingle NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 19 Company on the Snoqualmie River south of Monroe. Upon his return from Europe, Olof Carlson joined with Bergstrom and Cunningham to reorganize the company. By 1914 the new C-B was on Everett’s bay front at 9th Street and Norton Avenue. Carlson was company president, Cunningham was vice-president and Bergstrom was secretarytreasurer and manager. The plant covered 20 acres of tide flats, employed 45 men and was hailed as the first totally electrically driven shingle mill in the world. The owners prided themselves in the modern machinery, which even included a blower system for the dust. By 1922, Cunningham was no longer a company officer, leaving Carlson as the C with Bergstrom still the B. In 1918 Bergstrom had moved to 1731 Rucker Avenue, which was across the street from Carlson’s home at 1722 Rucker. Thus, the two were long time neighbors as well as business partners. Bergstrom was out of the Mukilteo Shingle Company by 1919, but he remained with Pacific Timber Company, eventually becoming president. C-B and Pacific Timber names were both painted on the mill. Carlson appears to have retired from the firm by 1930; he would have been about 70 years old. Bergstrom continued as the president until his death in the early 1940s. His wife Iva was president for about 10 years with their daughter Charlotte V. Wilde and her husband Raymond also serving as company officers. Crosby Pendleton eventually became vice-president and general manager. It was he who announced in 1955 the sale of C-B Lumber and Shingle Company and Pacific Timber Company to Summit Timber Company. The firm which had been a mainstay on the Everett bay front for more than four decades was gone. Unlike many of its contemporaries, however, there is still a trace of C-B in 2008. The tide water pilings on which the mill once stood are visible at the northeast boundary of the NMRA. Clough-Hartley Company When this giant shingle mill debuted in 1907, it was known as the Clough-Whitney Company. Within the year, Roland Hartley, an original incorporator, purchased the stock of another initial incorporator, O.S. Whitney. This put the Clough-Hartley family in full control by 1908. David M. Clough served as president; his brother O.E. Clough was treasurer; O.E.’s son H.J. Clough was secretary; Roland Hartley, son-in-law of David, served as vice-president. Located at the foot of 18th Street, the operation straddled the southern boundary of the current NMRA. Billed as the world’s largest shingle mill when it opened, Clough-Hartley included 16 new upright shingle machines from Everett’s Sumner Iron Works. One source said the plant had the capacity of producing 500,000 shingles daily; another said 800,000. In either case, Clough-Hartley dwarfed any previous shingle mill in Everett. By 1912, Clough-Hartley also was putting out 80,000 feet of cedar siding lumber per day. With 163 employees and a monthly payroll of $14,074, the plant had more workers and a larger payroll than all the 14 th Street Dock mills combined. By 1916, Clough-Hartley’s daily shingle production was reported as 1.5 million. David Clough was still president and Roland Hartley, vice-president; H.J. Clough became secretary-treasurer after his father’s death in 1915. From 1919 to 1923 there also was a Bayside Shingle Company at either 18th or 19th Street and Norton Avenue NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 20 with Cloughs and Hartleys as officers. It is unclear as to whether this was simply part of the Clough-Hartley plant or a separate adjacent facility. Perhaps it was housed in the building(s) of the Seaside Shingle Company, which was shown previously as being at 19 th Street and Norton Avenue. When David Clough died in 1924, Roland Hartley became Clough-Hartley president, H.J. Clough’s name was dropped as a company officer and the Bayside Shingle name vanished as well. Roland Hartley remained president for the next several years but it is unlikely he was directly involved in the mill’s operation. He was elected governor of the state of Washington in 1924 and re-elected in 1928. Most likely the mill management was in the hands of his sons David M. and Edward W. Hartley. Everett mills boomed after a devastating 1923 earthquake in Japan. Much of the lumber to rebuild the country came from Everett. However, by the time Roland Hartley was elected governor, the family shingle business had already begun to suffer. In 1928 when Edward Hartley stated that he knew of at least four waterfront cedar mills that had been operating at a loss since 1923, he probably was including Clough-Hartley in that group. The worn out mill was closed in 1929. City Directories in the mid to late 1930s identify the Clough-Hartley site as a retail lumber yard. A spectacular fire destroyed the mill on December 29, 1937. A 40-mile an hour gale from the south whipped the flames through the structure and it took several hours for firemen to control the blaze. The loss was confined to the building itself. Virtually all machinery had been removed and the sparks that flew northward landed harmlessly in the log basin between 12th and 18th streets. In 2008 there is no trace of the Clough-Hartley empire jewel that once occupied 60 acres of prime bay front property. Jamison Mill Company When young Neil E. Jamison bought the 14th Street Dock Lundgren Mill Company in 1909, it was the beginning of nearly six decades of the Jamison name in the NMRA. He maintained ownership of the 14th Street Dock mill until 1919 but changed the name from Jamison Lumber and Shingle Company to Cargo Shingle Company after he organized the Jamison Mill Company in 1913 and built a new Jamison Lumber and Shingle Company at 10th and Norton. Later, the Cargo name would shift to the 10th and Norton location and then disappear at the end of the 1920s. About 1913, Neil Jamsion hired P. Henry Olwell as sales manager. Olwell would become mill manager and a trusted Jamison administrator for 35 years. In 1917, with his two Everett operations and a mill in Anacortes, Neil Jamison was identified in Washington West of the Cascades by Herbert Hunt and Floyd Kaylor as the world’s largest manufacturer of western red cedar shingles. By 1926, the Jamison Mill Company was reported to be producing 1,250,000 shingles per day. One hundred twenty-five men were employed in the Everett plant. On May 8, 1928 Jamison was struck by a serious fire. Five dry kilns burned and several million shingles were lost. Every available Everett fireman battled the blaze for several hours. Using an apparatus that pumped water from the bay, the firefighters found their pumps useless when the tide receded. The city water mains were then used but the supply was woefully inadequate. The episode left city officials NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 21 wrestling with the demand for a larger water line to the bay front industries. The mill reopened and reestablished its role as Everett’s dominant shingle producer. In 1954, Jamison was the mainstay of an Everett shingle industry that put out 25 million bundles of shingles that year. Dennis LeMaster, who later would become a college professor in resource economics and policy, remembers working at Jamison in the summer of 1955. “It was a run down mill with many holes in the dock surface, but did the shingles ever roll out of that place, “ LeMaster recalled in 2008. “I was just a high school junior but I got a job loading shingles into railroad cars, 14 to 15 bundles high. It was very hard work and our crew often worked double shifts trying to load those shingles as fast as they came off the gravity feed. The pay was about $2.27 an hour but with all that overtime the loading crew made great money for those days.” Neil Jamison died in September 1958 and for the next few years his wife Grace and daughter Glee J. Bell (later DeVoe) served as president and vice-president of the company, with Ben A Hanich as secretary. In 1962, Hanich purchased the mill and operated it until his retirement in 1965. By 1966, the mill was known as the Jamison Division of Saginaw Shingle Company and was owned by an Aberdeen, Washington based company. The mill had closed for a year but in mid August, 1967, Saginaw announced the plant would reopen. Dreams for a new Jamison era vanished, however, on August 31 when an enormous fire engulfed the plant. One hundred firemen battled the three-alarm blaze for three hours but there was no way to save the main mill. A large dry kiln, the warehouse and most of the pier were salvaged, but no shingle or shake mill would operate on the site again. William Hulbert Mill Company In 1914, Fred K. Baker, a lumberman who had first come to Everett in 1901, built the Fred K. Baker Lumber Company mill at the foot of 12th Street on Everett’s bay front. Three years later William M. Hulbert bought controlling interest. Born in 1858 to a pioneering family who moved from Kansas to the Pacific Northwest when he was only two years old, Hulbert had extensive background in the logging and lumber business. By 1918, he was president of the Fred K. Baker Lumber Company. Hulbert died in 1919. His wife Meda, who had been a teacher before their marriage, became president and their son William Glen Hulbert became vice-president of the company, which changed its name to the Hulbert Mill Company in 1920. Later, the name would be expanded to the William Hulbert Mill Company. Completely electrified in 1916, the mill was enlarged around 1920 until it covered 31 acres. By the mid 1920s a work force of about 200 was producing 80,000 feet of cedar lumber and 350,000 shingles per day. The company also became a pioneer in a pre-paid medical plan for its employees. Hulbert collaborated in this effort with Dr. Samuel Caldbick, who founded the Everett Clinic in 1924. In 1926, Hulbert expanded into casket manufacturing. The company built a striking three story 60,000 square-foot wooden building on pilings just south of the mill. The North Coast Casket Company, with William G. Hulbert as manager, used the building to make caskets. (See separate section on North Coast and Collins Casket Company.) In the early 1930s, William Hulbert Mill Company took a lead in popularizing the use of cedar as a NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 22 “decay resisting” building material. Sales manager Tom Skalley was instrumental in this campaign. By the late 1940s, William G. Hulbert was president-manager and his son William G. Hulbert, Jr., secretary-treasurer of both the William Hulbert Mill Company and the Hulbert Sales Corporation. At this time Hulbert still had both a lumber and shingle mill in its waterfront complex plus the casket factory. The mill was hit by a fouralarm fire on August 3, 1956, that long-time Everettites called one of the worst they could remember. The main mill, the shingle mill and the casket factory were saved, but the planer mill, a storage building, eight dry kilns filled with lumber and the neighboring Jamison Mill office building were lost. In July of 1957 the shingle mill, with 60 men employed, was back in operation. The main saw mill would never reopen and by 1959 the shingle mill was closed, too. By this time William G. Hulbert had retired and his son William G., Jr. was president of the William Hulbert Mill Company. The company held on to the property for several years, leasing it to different businesses and finally selling it to the Port in 1991. Casket Companies: North Coast/Collins/Cascade The North Coast Casket Company opened around 1925. It was in downtown Everett at the corner of Grand Avenue and California Street. The 1925 City Directory shows Fred Hulbert as manager and Rasmus M. Collins as superintendent. Fred Hulbert was the son of the late William Marion Hulbert, who a decade earlier had purchased the Fred K. Baker Mill on the Everett bay front, and the brother of William Glen Hulbert, who had reorganized the Baker operation into the William Hulbert Mill Company after their father’s death in 1919. Collins had managed casket companies in Spokane and Seattle before he came to Everett. In 1926, North Coast Casket Company relocated to a new three-story 60,000 square foot wooden structure the William Hulbert Mill Company built just south of its mill at 12th Street and Norton Avenue. The location was strategic; the casket shells would be built from scrap and end material from the mill. By the late 1920s, William Glen Hulbert was the North Coast Casket manager and Collins was still superintendent. In the early 1930s, Collins purchased the manufacturing portion of North Coast Casket and established the Collins Casket Company. Hulbert maintained ownership of the building. North Coast produced the casket shell on the first floor of the building. The shell consisted of four side pieces, three bottom pieces the length of the casket, and two top pieces the width of the casket. The pieces were lifted to the Collins operation on the second floor by an elevator at the north end of the building. The pieces were assembled and the casket moved south through the building receiving a locking gear, fabric, a latch, mattress and liner, and finally emerging as a finished product. There were 10 to 12 different casket styles. The casket work was done on the first two floors. The third floor was for storage. While the two companies were mutually dependent, Collins did buy some shells from other sources and North Coast did sell some shells to other companies. By 1944, North Coast’s name had changed to Cascade Casket Company, with former North Coast shipping manager Edwin C. Dams operating the firm along with Theodore Johnson. Rasmus M. Collins retired from his NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 23 company about 1954. He retained ownership of the company and his son Rasmus C. “Rasty” Collins became manager. The elder Collins died in 1959. Shortly thereafter Dent and Lois Maulsby, who had previously owned Sound Casket, came out of retirement and partnered with Rasty and his wife Jeanne in the ownership of Collins Casket. Maulsby ran the factory and Collins was the salesperson. About 1961 a concrete tilt-up building was erected just east of the casket factory for the purpose of building metal casket shells. These welded shells went to the second floor of the factory for finishing. Around 1963, Dams and Johnson retired from Cascade Casket and the company was purchased by the William Hulbert Mill Company. Dent Maulsby retired from Collins about 1969. William Hulbert Mill Company and Collins merged the casket firms under the Collins name. Ownership was 50/50 with Rasty Collins serving as president and William Glen Hulbert, Jr. as vice-president. Shortly after the merger, Collins acquired a Spokane company, Inland Casket, which didn’t manufacture caskets, but installed interiors. In 1977, Collins sold its manufacturing operation to Cliff Carlson, who moved it to Spokane. Hulbert kept the shell plant and continued to run it. The business was still operating in 1991 when the Hulbert Mill Company Limited Partnership sold their 35-acre property and the buildings to the Port of Everett. Michael Keys, former Collins Casket manager, bought the company and ran it until it closed permanently in 1996. While the business is gone, the Collins Building in which the casket were manufactured remains. It is a link to the past, the only significant surviving structure from the NMRA’s heyday as a wood products industrial center. Columbia Hardboard Company The pending arrival of this pioneering particle board company was cause for banner headlines in the August 12, 1955 Everett Daily Herald. The firm’s parent company, Columbia Veneer, with Fred L. Johnson as president, leased five and a quarter acres at 921 13th street from the Port of Everett. A 50-year lease demonstrated confidence in the plant’s success. Cedar waste would be the primary material in the hardboard product and the site was adjacent to the William Hulbert Mill, which would provide 30 to 50 tons of waste cedar per day. The use of this waste cedar, which previously had been burned, was hailed as a step in eliminating the long controversial cinder problem in Everett. Particles from the cedar and lesser amounts of alder, another abundant and inexpensive resource, would be bonded together with a resin to form a composite board. First, the wood was shaved into chips which were much smaller than those used in particle board in 2008. The chips were referred to as flakes and the resulting product was commonly called flakeboard. Once the flakes had been cut, they were mixed with a resin and then pressed into four by eight foot sheets that ranged in thickness from onequarter inch to a full inch. The flakeboard was seen as a competitor to plywood. It would be used as an underlay or for interior finished surfaces. Initial success kept three crews of approximately 25 men each working around the clock five days a week in a plant where the airborne dust made it almost impossible to see from one end of the NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 24 building to the other. The flakeboard was shipped to other states as well as being utilized in local construction projects. There was liberal use of the product for interior surfaces of Everett’s Evergreen Junior High School when it was built in 1958. There were, however, production challenges from the beginning. Frequently, sheets would “blow” - the center would puff up to several inches - as they came out of the sander. Subsequent research indicated that alder and cedar lacked the necessary fiber characteristics for particle board. Also, there were concerns with the resin. Production suffered, too, when the Hulbert Mill, which was to furnish cedar, burned in August of 1956. Whatever the cause or causes, the plant was short lived. By 1961, it was gone. Columbia Hardboard can be remembered, however, as a forerunner of the particle board that would come into universal use in following decades. (Author’s Note: Much of the information here is my recollection from having worked for Columbia Hardboard in the summer of 1957. - Lawrence E. O’Donnell Pilchuck Shake and Lumber Company (Pilchuck Shingle Mill) Pilchuck Shake and Lumber was one of the last wood products mills in the NMRA. City Directories indicate the plant was located at 9th Street and Norton Avenue (later West Marine View Drive) and was in operation from about 1957 to 1964. Possibly, it was a portion of the C-B mill, which was sold to Summit Timber Company in 1955. The 1957 City Directory entry shows John Haubner as the plant superintendent. By 1963, William J. Moody was president; Virgil D. Fortune, vice president; and Harry W. Lawson, Jr., secretary-treasurer. The next year Moody remains as president, Fortune’s name disappears, Lawson becomes vice president-treasurer, and Anna R. Levitte is listed as secretary. Mike Whitehead, later a local businessman and realtor, worked at Pilchuck in the summers 1959-1961, earning money for college expenses. “I remember the place as strictly a shake factory,” Whitehead recalled in a 2008 interview. “The finished shakes were loaded on railroad freight cars and headed south - to California and Arizona, I think.” The plant had been closed for at least three years and was being used to store about 3,000 tons of paper for Scott Paper Company when it burned down September 2, 1967. A strong westerly wind whipped the flames across Norton, igniting hillside brush and threatening bluff top Grand Avenue homes. Burke Barker, president of Summit Timber Company and owner of the mill property said the Pilchuck complex “had no value at all.” In fact, earlier he had approached the Everett Fire Department about having them burn the place. Summit Timber Company In 1955, the Summit Timber Company, which had a wholesale lumber company at 838 Highway 99 North in Everett, bought the C-B Lumber and Shingle Company. In the 1956 through 1961 City Directories, Summit Timber Company is listed as having the wholesale NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 25 lumber operation at the North Broadway location and a mill at the old C-B address, 9th Street and Norton Avenue. Burke Barker is identified as president of the firm. Both Summit listings disappear from the directory in 1962. Presumably this was the time when Summit shifted its Everett operations to Darrington where Barker had been involved in the lumber business for a number of years. Significant People James E. Bell The operator of the first industrial plant in the NMRA, James E. Bell had a colorful and diverse career as a business and civic leader. Born September 8, 1853 in Wataga, Illinois, he had experience as a farmer, logger, mill worker, mill foreman and mill owner before he came to Everett in 1892 to manage the Everett Land Company mill on 14 th Street Dock. He left that position to build another waterfront mill in 1896, which he and his partner John G. Nelson sold to the Weyerhaeuser Timber Company in 1902. In 1899, Bell was a key figure in the founding of the Everett Elks Lodge, which was destined to become the largest fraternal organization in Snohomish County. He served as the lodge’s first exalted ruler and was affectionately referred to as the lodge ”daddy” by his fellow Elks. In 1900 he was elected mayor of Everett. A staunch Democrat, he served as a University of Washington regent when populist John R. Rogers was state governor the early part of the 20th century. After 1902, Bell was involved in a number of business ventures, including presidency of the Pacific Coast Lumber Manufacturers’ Association, construction supervisor of the Washington State building at the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair, partner in the Pilchuck Lumber Company, and owner of three mills in North Bend, Washington and two ranches in eastern Washington. He built Everett’s first apartment building, Bell’s Court in 1908. One hundred years later, the 21-apartment structure is still in operation on the southeast corner of 25th Street and Colby Avenue. Also, around 1909 he was a major organizer of the Model Stables Transfer and Storage Company. Later he founded the Bell Auto and Freight Company, which operated between Everett and Seattle. Married on March 29, 1894, Bell and his wife Mary (Langans) had two children, Eva Hale and Jeanetta Elizabeth. Bell also had a son Morris from a previous marriage. James E. Bell died on June 12, 1919. James J. Hill James J. Hill never lived in Everett, rarely visited the city and never owned or operated an Everett mill, but this captain of industry was more responsible than anyone for the development of the wood products industries on Everett’s waterfront. When Hill brought his Great Northern Railway from the Midwest to Puget Sound in 1893, he realized the future of places like Everett was in the vast stands of timber that lined the valleys and mountainsides. His moment to capitalize on that potential arrived at the NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 26 turn of the 20th century when he crafted two business deals that would change the course of Everett’s history. First, he bought from John D. Rockefeller the remaining assets of the failed Everett Land Company. His intent was clear. He would make Everett a mill town and he would ship the finished product by rail to market. About the same time he arranged the sale of 900,000 acres of Northern Pacific Railroad (a company he largely controlled by this time) prime Pacific Northwest federal land grant timberlands to his St. Paul, Minnesota next door neighbor Frederick Weyerhaeuser for $5.4 million. The sale accomplished two things for Everett. First, it influenced other Midwestern lumbermen, who had highest regard for Weyerhaeuser’s business acumen, to follow his lead. If he was looking to the Pacific Northwest, perhaps they should too. Second, it put Weyerhaeuser in a position of looking for a mill site in the Puget Sound area. He found that site when he bought Everett’s Bell-Nelson Mill in 1902 and renovated it, establishing the first Weyerhaeuser mill in the Pacific Northwest. Once Hill had the Everett Improvement Company underway, men like David M. Clough, eminent lumberman and former governor of Minnesota, were invited to start mills in Everett. Powerful lumber operatives followed Clough and a flood of individuals arrived to work in the new plants. While all might not have been personally recruited by Hill, it was clear that early NMRA lumbermen such as Olof Carlson, George Bergstrom, Fred Baker, William Hulbert, Roland Hartley and Neil Jamison were there because of James J. Hill’s vision. John T. McChesney Once James J. Hill had formed the Everett Improvement Company, he needed someone in whom he had the utmost confidence to run it. The man he chose was John T. McChesney. In his early forties at the time, McChesney had been a bank president and mayor of Aberdeen, South Dakota and head of the syndicate that organized Chattanooga, Tennessee before he came to Everett in late 1899. Like his boss, McChesney never owned or operated an Everett wood products plant, but he was enormously influential in the development of the city’s industrial base. With Hill, he recruited leading lumbermen to Everett. Through the Everett Improvement Company, he offered them sites on Everett Improvement Company property at little or no cost. The NMRA, like other sections of Everett waterfront, was soon filled with lumber and shingle mills and Everett flaunted its reputation as the “City of Smokestacks.” McChesney’s organizational genius was not limited to the lumber industry. Among his many activities he founded the American National Bank, served as its president, and constructed a splendid brick structure on the southeast corner of Hewitt and Colby avenues to house the bank. He also built the Everett Theater next to the bank and the Improvement Dock on the bay front. Additionally, he was active in organizations such as the Cascade Club, Rotary Club, Everett Elks, Golf and Country Clubs of both Everett and Seattle and Seattle’s Rainier Club. When McChesney died in September 1922 he left a wife, three grown children and 10 grandchildren. On the day of McChesney’s funeral, Everett’s mayor W.H. Clay asked that all flags be flown at half mast and all businesses NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 27 and industries close their doors for the first five minutes of the service. Clay requested this as a tribute to a man he described as “our distinguished citizen who has been foremost in the upbuilding of our city from its very early history and the real leader for many years in its industrial growth.” David M. Clough It is said that David Clough first arrived in Everett via the personal railroad car of James J. Hill. Former governor of Minnesota and a respected lumberman, Clough had the credentials Hill was looking for in men who would transform the city into a mill town. Clough wasted no time in pursuing that goal. In 1900 he was an organizer of the ClarkNickerson Company, which built Everett’s largest mill to date on the bay front south of the NMRA. After M.J. Clark’s death in 1905, Clough became president of the company. He was president of the Clough-Whitney Company in 1907 (later Clough-Hartley) when the firm opened its huge shingle plant at 18th Street and Norton Avenue in the North Marina Area. Two years later, he would be president of the Hartley Shingle Company and the Clough Shingle Company, 14th Street Dock mills. In addition to his Everett holdings, Clough also had mills in Stanwood, Washington and Vancouver, British Columbia. He was the unofficial leader of the Everett mill owner group Norman Clark labeled the “sawdust baronage” in his 1970 book Mill Town. Clough was an unabashed spokesman for the mill owners and their positions. He battled with the unions and was a central figure in the 1916 shingle weavers strike when he refused to reinstate the 1914 wage scale. When the radical Industrial Workers of the World (IWW) union entered the fray, Clough opposed them and was a leader in the attempt to run them out of Everett. The whole scenario climaxed on November 5, 1916 with a deadly City Dock shoot out between the IWW and the mill owner citizens deputies, led by Sheriff Don McRae. Clough maintained his lumber baron supremacy before and after that event known as the Everett Massacre. He and his wife Addie lived in several different north Everett homes, which overlooked his waterfront empire. He was still president of several firms when he died on August 27, 1924. He left no sons to carry the mantle but his son-in-law Roland Hartley, nephew H.J. Clough, and Hartley’s sons would continue the family businesses for a few more years. Roland H. Hartley Son-in-law of David Clough, Roland Hartley was the other key member of the family lumber and shingle dynasty. Born in Shogomoc, New Brunswick on June 26, 1864, Hartley was on his own at age 13, working in a northern Minnesota lumber camp. By the time he was 21, he was a bookkeeper for the Clough Brothers lumber firm of Minnesota. He married Clough’s daughter Nina in 1888 and later was secretary to his father-in-law when the latter was Minnesota’s governor. During that period he was a member of the military forces of Minnesota and the governor designated him a colonel. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 28 It was a title Hartley carried with pride the rest of his life. Hartley came to Everett in 1902. He collaborated with David Clough and also entered into enterprises on his own. Like his father-in-law, he was an outspoken advocate for the mill owners’ interests and he frequently clashed with the unions. And like his father-in-law, he ventured into the world of politics. He was elected mayor of Everett in 1910 and served until January 1912. In 1915 he was elected to the Washington State House of Representatives. After unsuccessful attempts in 1916 and 1920, he was elected state governor in 1924. David Clough died shortly before Hartley’s election and Roland Hartley assumed the presidency of the Clough-Hartley Company. With the pressure of his governorship duties, it appears he turned the day-to-day operation of the company over to his sons, David and Edward. A rock-ribbed Republican, Hartley was a straight speaking, but controversial, governor who preached capitalism, opposed tax increases, and railed against anything he considered socialistic. He was re-elected governor in 1928 and then swept out of office in the 1932 Democratic landslide during his third bid for the governorship. He returned to his magnificent north Rucker Avenue home where he could view the Everett bay front. Hartley died on September 21, 1952 and was interred in Everett’s Evergreen Cemetery by David Clough’s grave site. It may be one of the few places in the United States where two former governors are in the same burial plot. Olof Carlson Few immigrants arrived in America more tumultuously than Olof Carlson. Born in Gottenborg, Sweden on November 30, 1860 to a sea captain and his wife, Carlson was reportedly a cook on a vessel that was pounded to pieces in 1880 by a violent storm off the Oregon coast. The crew was rescued and taken to Astoria, where they were paid $500.00 for a return trip to Europe. Young Olof’s money was stolen so he stayed in the Pacific Northwest. He lived in Portland for about five years before he and his brothers got into the lumber business in Tacoma. After a series of successes and failures, they came to Everett, and eventually established Carlson Brothers on 14 th Street Dock’s old E.J. McNeeley site. Olof Carlson sold the mill to the Shull Lumber Company in 1912 and traveled to Europe, visiting his native Sweden and other countries. Upon his return, he partnered with W.R. Cunningham and George A. Bergstrom in the C-B Lumber and Shingle Company, which built a new plant at the foot of 9 th Street on the Everett bay front around 1914. Carlson was president of the firm until the end of the 1920s. During the late 1920s, he also was vice-president of the Citizens Bank and Trust Company. He shows up in the 1930s City Directories as president of Super Shingle Company and the Port Gardner Investment Company. By 1941, he seems to be retired from active business. Over the years, he was involved in organizations such as the Everett Commercial Club, Everett Elks, Modern Woodmen of America and Peninsula Lodge, F & AM. In 1911, he was elected to the Everett City Council but served just a few months because the city changed to a new commissioner form of government. Carlson and his wife Ellen built a lovely home at 1722 Rucker Avenue around 1906. The Carlsons had one son, Edward, and four daughters, Nettie, Esther, Evelyn and Julie, all of whom were NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 29 reported to be noted beauties of early Everett. Esther married Clifford Newton, uncle of current Everett attorney Henry Newton. Henry remembers that when he was a young boy, Carlson was the kindly white-haired gentleman who played Santa Claus at the family Christmas Eve party. Olof Carlson died in July of 1952 at the age of 91. His death was reported on the front page of the Everett Herald. Neil C. Jamison Neil Jamison was born June 1886 in Minneapolis, Minnesota to a prominent family of that city. His mother was of English descent and had been born in Vermont. His father was an attorney who became a district court judge. After completing studies at Amherst College in Massachusetts, Neil Jamison came to the Pacific Northwest. He was just 21 years old when he began working in an Everett mill. In a short time he had accumulated enough money to buy a shingle mill of his own on 14th Street Dock. In 1913, he organized the Jamison Mill and soon had two shingle mills in Everett and one in Anacortes. By 1917, his Jamison Mill Company was hailed in Washington West of the Cascades as manufacturing more red cedar shingles than anyone in the world. He was a central figure in the 1916 shingle weavers strike that presaged the Everett Massacre. He hired strike breakers and guards to keep the pickets away from his mill. On one occasion he encouraged a particularly merciless beating of pickets by his guards and strike breakers. In another episode, Jamison paraded his strike breakers and guards through the city to the Everett Theater for a little rest and relaxation. Their R and R completed, the Jamison folks came out of the theater to face an angry mob that had gathered. The resulting fist fights were broken up when the police arrived and fired guns to disperse the combatants. Jamison’s business enterprises were not confined to the shingle business. He was on the board of directors for William Butler’s First National Bank of Everett for several years. He headed up the Sauk River Lumber Company, a large Washington logging company, and the Nimmo Logging Company, which had extensive logging operations in British Columbia. In later years he owned and operated the J-Bar-J cattle ranch in Ellensburg, Washington and the J-Bar-J citrus ranch in Thousand Palms, California. He belonged to a number of clubs and associations, including the University Club of Seattle, Seattle Golf Club, Vancouver Club of British Columbia, Everett Yacht Club, Thunderbird County Club of Palm Springs, California and the Cascade Club of Everett. He was also said to be a generous supporter of Everett’s First Congregational Church. Neil Jamison died on September 25, 1958 and his wife Grace and daughter Glee assumed the titles of president and vice-president, respectively, of the Jamison enterprises. The Everett Herald reported he had left an estate that was estimated to be in excess of one million dollars. He left significant amounts to family, friends and agencies such as the Bishops School of La Jolla, California; Lakeside School in Seattle; Chi Psi fraternity of Amherst College; American Cancer Society; and the Muscular Dystrophy Association. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 30 Fred K. Baker Born in Fleming, New York on January 5, 1861, Fred Baker came to Everett in 1901 and founded the Ferry-Baker Lumber Company. The Ferry-Baker mill took over the plant of the former Rice Lumber Company on the Snohomish River. After selling his Ferry-Baker interest in 1909, he lived in Bellingham. Baker returned to Everett in 1913 to build the Fred K. Baker Lumber Company mill at the foot of 12th Street on the bay front. In 1916 he sold a controlling interest to William M. Hulbert, who reorganized the firm as the Hulbert Lumber Company. Baker left Everett in 1920 to operate an Oregon mill. Long active in the Republican Party, he returned a few years later to serve as Director of the State Department of Public Works under Governor Roland Hartley of Everett. He achieved local notoriety in early 1957 by outliving a Manhattan Life Insurance Company policy he bought in 1899. He received from the company a $5,000 check, the full face value of the policy. Proud of his American lineage, Baker also could note at this time that the overlapping lives of his grandfather Dr. Abel Baker, who was born in 1789, and his own spanned the entire 170-year history of the United States. In fact, he could trace his American lineage to Rev. Nicholas Baker, who came to Massachusetts from England in 1635. Fred Baker died in July of 1957 at the age of 96. He was praised by the Everett Daily Herald as “a vibrant link between this community’s present and its past…and one of the few pioneers who lived to see the dreams of the early arrivals in this area come true. The William Hulberts William Marion Hulbert was born in Brown County, Kansas in 1858 of Scotch lineage. The Hulbert name was said to be derived from an ancient Scottish weapon, the whirl bot, which whirled through the air when it was thrown at the enemy. William Marion was just two years old when his family, braving an Indian attack along the way, migrated to the West Coast. They lived in Oregon and California before coming to the territory of Washington in 1875. Eventually, the Hulberts moved to Snohomish County, where the father was involved in a number of businesses, including logging. William Marion followed his father in the business. In 1888 he married Meda Lyons, a Snohomish girl who could trace her lineage to pioneering families of Snohomish. The Hulberts had five children: William Glen, Ruth, Aida, Fred and Meda. In 1916, William Marion bought a controlling interest in the Fred K. Baker Lumber Company on the Everett bay front. He became president of the firm that later would be called the William Hulbert Mill company. William Marion died in 1919. His wife Meda became company president and their son William Glen Hulbert, who married Fred K. Baker’s daughter Katherine, was secretary-treasurer. Fred Hulbert was also in the family business, becoming a manager in the North Coast Casket Company. Meda was very active in the Everett Women’s Book Club, an organization that was founded in 1894. She served as Club president from 1921 to 1923. Meda died in 1948 and her son William Glen assumed presidency of the William Hulbert Mill Company. In addition to this mill leadership, he also served on NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 31 the Board of Directors of the First National Bank of Everett, as his father had previously. He was active in the community, leading Community Chest (predecessor to United Way) campaigns and belonging to Trinity Episcopal Church, Earl Faulkner Post of American Legion, Cascade Club, Everett Golf and County Club and Everett Yacht Club. Along with his only son William Glen, Jr., he underwrote the cost of new cafeteria for General Hospital in 1957. William Glen retired in 1956 and William Glen Jr. became the William Hulbert Mill Company president. A devastating fire essentially ended the Hulbert lumber and shingle operations. William Glen died on his 70th birthday on March 17, 1963. William Glen, Jr. retained his position as the company president but also shifted into a new role as chief executive of the Snohomish County Public Utility District No. 1. He served for nearly 20 years and guided the PUD into prominence as the 12 th largest PUD in the nation. Highly esteemed in the field, he served as president of the American Public Power Association and was one of the people to whom U.S. Senator Henry M. Jackson of Everett turned for energy advice. William Glen, Jr. was very active in civic affairs, serving as president of such organizations as Trinity Episcopal Church Board of Trustees and Lake Stevens Little League (first president). He was chair of the United Way, instrumental in the founding of the Snohomish County Boys Club, an Everett General Hospital Director for 25 years, and a member of Everett Golf and Country Club, Cascade Club, Everett Yacht Club, and Chamber of Commerce. William Glen Hulbert, Jr. died at the age of 69 October 12, 1986. He was survived by his wife Clare, three children, two step-children, and 13 grandchildren. William C. Butler William Butler never headed a NMRA mill. As Everett’s all powerful banker, however, he controlled the destinies of men and mills. Born on January 27, 1866 in Paterson, New Jersey to a prominent East Coast family, Butler was in his mid-twenties when he came to Everett during the city’s early boom days. He had a Columbia University mining degree and arrived here to help build and operate a smelter for the Rockefeller interests. He began acquiring bank stock and eventually left the smelter to become president of Everett’s First National Bank in 1901. The First National Bank of Everett name was retained when the bank merged with American National Bank in 1909. William Butler remained president of the new First National and Everett Trust and Savings Company, a fully owned American subsidiary. Now he headed the city’s largest bank operation with virtually no competition. The Bank of Commerce, Everett’s only other bank in 1909, had resources that were less than one fourth of Butler’s. Over the years, he increased his web of control and his domination of Everett’s economy. At one point he was reported to have a significant interest in at least 65 mills and logging companies in the city and county. Most certainly, some of those were in the NMRA. Essentially a recluse, he quietly manipulated Everett’s finances behind the doors of his First National office and the beautiful home he and his wife Eleanor built at 17 th Street and Grand Avenue. Reportedly, no news about him went into the local paper without his approval, and no industries came into the community without his sanction. He was a NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 32 pillar in the Republican Party and, undoubtedly, had a major role in Roland Hartley’s successful quest for the governorship. Though he never sought recognition, he also was instrumental in keeping every Snohomish County bank afloat through the Great Depression of the 1930s and he was a generous supporter of Everett’s General Hospital. He personally balanced the hospital’s budget during the lean years and left a significant bequest upon his death. Butler had bowed out of the presidency but was still the bank board chairman when he died on January 6, 1944. His wife Eleanor died four months later. Both are buried in the Cedar Lawn Cemetery in Paterson, New Jersey. The Butlers had lost their only child when he was a teenager so no one was left to carry on a family legacy. They did leave the Butler Trust Fund, which in 2008 was still supporting charitable causes in the community. Ernest P. Marsh In a demonstration that workers could be just as migratory as managers, Ernest Marsh was a shingle weaver at three 14th Street Dock shingle mills from 1901 to 1908. In 1909, he left the dock and soon became a union official. By 1910 he was the editor of the Labor Journal and secretary-treasurer at the Labor Temple. Though passionate about his union views, Marsh was a man of measured words and actions. In the words of Mill Town author Norman Clark, Marsh had the “soul of moderation.” He was an articulate spokesman for the laboring man but never questioned the mill owners’ right to reasonable profitability. After the 1915 collapse of the Timber Workers’ Union, of which he had been a founder, Marsh reorganized the state shingle weavers union. He headed up the strike committee when the new International Shingles Weavers of America clashed with the Everett shingle mill owners and he played a central role in the prolonged 1916 strike/lockout. Marsh did not welcome the Industrial Workers of the World (IWW) entry into the conflict between the Everett shingle weavers and mill owners. He respected the IWW’s right to speak but he rejected the radical union as bad for the wood products industry and a definite threat to his American Federation of Labor Organization. The shingle weavers strike faded to the background as the mill owners and IWW battle escalated and finally culminated in the City Dock shoot out known as the Everett Massacre. Marsh had witnessed the violence from the hill above the dock and he was dismayed and disgusted by what had seen. Convinced that conclusion of the shingle weavers strike was critical for community healing, he led efforts in that direction. However, the strike, with a few interruptions, dragged on until late 1917. By this time, America was in World War I and federal government intervention was changing the entire wood products labor and management relations. Ernest Marsh’s name is not found in the Everett City Directories after 1917. He left Everett to work for the federal government as a labor moderator. After a quarter century of governmental service, he concluded his working years in San Francisco as an advisor to the Crown Zellerbach Corporation. Ernest Marsh died in 1958, more than a half century after his challenging years in Everett. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 33 Notable Houses of North Marina Redevelopment Area Lumber Personalities 2320 Rucker Avenue - Roland H. Hartley This magnificent mansion built for Roland Hartley and his wife Nina (Clough) in 1911 is one of Everett’s most impressive houses. Neo-classical in style, it is strategically situated on the west side of Rucker Avenue where Hartley could survey his bay front holdings. There are four levels of living space with a total area of 10,000 square feet. A ballroom is on the top level. The hipped-roof has gable roof dormers extending from each plane. The full-width porch has a roof supported by columns with Ionic capitals and is topped with a railing and turned balusters. Paired columns with Corinthian capitals support a huge two story flat-roofed portico. A large separate garage, which is entered from Rucker Avenue, features a turntable so Hartley’s Pierce Arrow wouldn’t have be backed out into the street. Hartley first came to Everett in the early part of the twentieth century. His wife Nina was the daughter of former Minnesota governor David M. Clough, who arrived in Everett just before the Hartleys to enter the lumbering business. Hartley and Clough both became prominent lumbermen here. Hartley later served as Everett’s mayor, a state legislator, and then two terms as Washington governor from 1925-1933. He lived in the house until his death in 1952. Later the mansion was converted into a nursing home. In 1983, it was purchased by Dr. Sanford Wright, Jr. He extensively restored the house to its original elegance and in 2008 he was still using it for his medical practice. The Hartley Mansion is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 1010 Hoyt Avenue - Herbert J. Clough This enormous Colonial Revival home was built around 1921 for Herbert J. and Lenora Clough. Situated on the southwest corner of Hoyt Avenue and 10th Street, the house stands on six 25-foot lots in the Bailey Addition, a 1918 plat. In the 1930s, local businessman Charles C. Chaffee bought the residence. He converted it to apartments during World War II. By the 1990s, the property had been converted to condominiums, with eight units in the original house and two in a separate structure. Herb Clough was the son of O.E. Clough, nephew of David M. Clough and first cousin by marriage to David’s son-in-law Roland Hartley. All were prominent Everett lumbermen. After the death of his father and uncle, Herbert J. Clough became the president of the ClarkNickerson Company and the Clough Lumber Company. Born in 1881, he died in 1972. Other prominent homes occupied by members of the Clough family are 2026 Rucker Avenue, 2302 Rucker Avenue and 2031 Grand Avenue. 1722 Rucker Avenue - Olof Carlson Olof and Ellen Carlson had this classic American Foursquare house built in 1906. The NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 34 house features elements that are identified with the Foursquare style, such as symmetrical design, square floor plan, low pitched hipped roof with hipped roof dormer, double-hung sash windows and a full width covered porch with an off center entry. Also, the ornate double-diamond second story window above the porch is characteristic of the style. There was a second floor back balcony from which Carlson could view his waterfront enterprises. Over the years, he served as president of three different NMRA companies: Carlson Brothers Mill, C-B Lumber and Shingle Company and Super Shingle Company. Carlson died in 1952 at the age of 91 and Ellen continued living in the house for another 20 years. Robert Fink bought the house in 1992 and spent several years restoring it to its original grandeur. 1703 Grand Avenue - Butler/Jackson This two and a half story Colonial Revival home with Federal style features was built for powerful Everett banker William C. and his wife Eleanor in 1910. Situated on a site overlooking the waterfront mills in which Butler had so much stake, the house was designed by noted pioneer Everett architect August F. Heide. With its symmetry, gableroof dormers, side-gable roof and classic front portico supported by paired pillars, the house has been described as having a refined dignity. For the Butlers it was a retreat, a place of intense privacy for a couple who avoided Everett’s social whirl. The Butlers both died in 1944. The house went through two owners before U.S. Senator Henry M. Jackson and his wife Helen bought it in 1967. Unlike the Butlers, the Jacksons frequently opened the home for social, civic and political events. The Senator died in 1983 but Helen remained in the house and resides there in 2008. The home is on the National Register of Historic Places. The Working Man’s Cottage When Everett was platted in the 1890s, most residential building lots were establish at 25 feet wide and approximately 120 feet deep. Middle class or the more affluent families often would build on two lots and the well-to-do would use three lots or more. With their meager incomes, mill worker families were relegated to relatively compact houses on 25-foot lots. Hundreds, if not thousands, of these working men’s cottages were built in Everett. Frequently, the houses were packed together in neighborhoods where one could literally reach out the window and touch the house next door. Invariably, the cottages were oriented to the street so people could relate with each other. Unlike more recent times, interest in waterfront view potential was non-existent. That waterfront had no scenic or recreational attraction; it was a dangerous place of sweat and toil. Many of the cottages were located close to the mill sites. Grand Avenue from 19th Street to Hewitt Avenue, for example, was a prime location. Over the years many of the Grand Avenue houses have given way to condominium or apartment complexes that take advantage of the bay front view. In a few places such as the 2000 NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 35 block, one can still find in 2008 a row of cottages on 25-foot lots. The east side of the 2900 block of Nassau Street is particularly notable, with several surviving cottages. Three adjacent houses; 2917, 2919 and 2921are virtually identical in design. Built in 1901, these 900-square foot houses exemplify Everett working man’s cottages. Influence of North Marina Redevelopment Area Lumber and Shingles Mill on the Development of Everett It would be difficult to overstate the influence of the lumber and shingle industry on the development of Everett. Hailed as a city of diversified industries when it was founded in the 1890s, Everett had stumbled out of the nineteenth century as a place of collapsed dreams. All that changed with the city’s rebirth as a mill town in the early part of the 20th century. By 1910 an almost solid band of waterfront mills symbolized a mill town economy and the resulting culture that dominated the community for nearly two-thirds of a century. The NMRA with its seven mills at that time was destined to be part and parcel of mill town Everett. In a decade of surging American West population increases - the state of Washington grew from 518,103 inhabitants in 1900 to 1,141,990 in 1910 - Everett’s remarkable growth outstripped that of the state and nearly every comparable city. The tripling of population from less than 8,000 in 1900 to nearly 25,000 in 1910 was fueled almost entirely by the burgeoning timber processing industries. Leading lumbermen arrived regularly to build and open new mills and men arrived regularly to work in the mills. They were accompanied by the bankers, teachers, merchants, tailors, bakers, preachers, barbers and countless others it takes to make a city. If the man was married with a family, he frequently came to the city alone. Once he was established, he summoned the wife and children, who most often traveled by train to their new home. Though the immigrants came from a variety of backgrounds they shared some common traits. Industries like timber processing, which are based on extraction of resources from the environment, typically created jobs that require little education or specialized training. The people who migrated to Everett to work in the lumber and shingle mills reflected this phenomena. They were not ignorant; they simply lacked formal education. Many were foreign born, or first or second generation Americans, who still communicated in their native languages. If they spoke English at all, it was likely to be a broken variation with mispronunciations and limited vocabulary. Virtually all of the new arrivals were white, as had been their Everett predecessors. Everett’s population could trace its roots to Europe, particularly countries like Norway, Sweden, Germany and England. These white Everettites exhibited little tolerance for racial and ethnic minorities and few individuals of other racial/ethnic backgrounds settled in the city. As late as 1940, the U.S. census showed Everett’s population as 99.3 percent white. Reborn Everett of the early 20th century wasted little time in defining itself. From the beginning, Everett had been tabbed the “City of Smokestacks”, but now the title took on NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 36 a special and more vivid meaning. Each mill had its own stack. Plumes bellowing out from a stack signaled a busy mill, a good sign for the community. The smell of smoke was the smell of money. Everett was the quintessential blue collar town, where machines, muscle, sweat - and sometimes blood - were the key ingredients in reducing huge cedars and firs to lumber and shingles. The community exhibited an almost a “chip on the shoulder” kind of pride. There was a job to do and Everett did it. Social niceties and sophistication did not fit in a place that had such a rudimentary purpose and rudimentary means for accomplishing the purpose. Lunch came out of a black lunch pail with no need for fine china. The city also proudly viewed itself as a stand alone, independent entity. Seattle was just 30 miles to the south, but Everett in no way considered itself a part of that metropolis. The importance of Seattle was relegated Everett’s need to produce more shingles than Ballard. Bellingham, a similarly sized city 60 miles to the north, was not tough enough to be perceived as a worthy rival. It had fewer mill jobs, more white collar jobs and a teacher training college. If Everett was going to compare itself with any other Western city, it might have selected the copper mining center Butte, Montana, another gritty, single industry community. As James J. Hill had hoped, lumber and shingles from the NMRA plants and other mills were being transported eastward on his railroads. The busy Great Northern Railway company, in fact, employed 836 Everett workers in 1912, more than any other single industry. Not all of the city’s mill products were going by rail, however. A significant amount was exported via water, establishing the city’s port status and leading the way for future shipping terminal development. Early in the century, sailing vessels lined up at Everett docks to be loaded with wood products. Later, larger engine powered ships worked the lumber export trade. The shipping business was particularly important during two of mill town Everett’s boom periods. Everett provided a vast amount of lumber to help rebuild San Francisco after that city’s horrific 1906 earthquake and fire. Virtually all of the lumber went to California by sea. This delighted Everett mill owners, who felt they were being victimized by Hill’s exorbitant railroad freight rates. Another shipping bonanza occurred in 1923 when Everett lumber was in demand after a disastrous earthquake in Japan. Mills ran at full capacity and it was not uncommon for several Japanese lumber ships to be loading at the same time in the Everett harbor. While lumber exporting eventually declined and disappeared, it was the forerunner of Everett seaport business that later included trade in goods such as pulp, paper, sulfur and alumina powder. In fact, raw logs, representing the last of the wood exports, were being shipped out until 2008. Shrewd, powerful lumber barons ran Everett‘s mills. They also ran the city and everybody knew it. If something was good for the mill owners, it tended to get done. Most local politicians went along with this, knowing they likely would be ousted if they didn’t. The mill owners’ dominance was best illustrated in the period surrounding the November, 1916 Everett Massacre. The mill owners and their cohorts were outraged when the Industrial Workers of the World (IWW) appeared in Everett during the shingle weavers strike of that summer, spewing their brand of radical unionism and anti- NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 37 capitalism. With David Clough as leader, the sawdust baronage determined the IWW, also known as the Wobblies, would be run out of town. City mayor Dennis Merrill simply stepped aside as Clough and his accomplices recruited Snohomish County Sheriff Don McRea to accomplish their goal. Deputies sympathetic to the cause joined with McRea in arresting, jailing and beating the Wobblies who appeared in Everett to speak during the shingle weavers strike. In essence the mill owners instituted a form of martial law in the city - and used the county sheriff, not the city mayor or police chief, to do it. And, of course, it was McRea and the deputies who faced off with the Wobblies in the deadly November shoot-out at the City Dock. This ill-fated episode may have marked the peak of the mill owners’ power, which waned in subsequent decades but never entirely disappeared. Fortunately, much of the later involvement was more positive in nature. NMRA personalities were among the mill operatives who wielded influence and provided community leadership. Several ran for and were elected to political offices. James Bell, who operated the first 14th Street Dock mill, served as Everett mayor from January 1900 to January 1901. A Democrat, Bell ran for the same office again in 1908 but this time he lost to Newton Jones, another NMRA mill executive. Jones was the superintendent of the Clough-Hartley mill for 14 years. The foremost NMRA politician was Roland Hartley, who followed Jones as Everett mayor. Later he would serve in the state legislature and then as state governor from 1925 to 1933. Several NMRA individuals assumed leaderships roles in other fields such as banking. S.S. Neff was a director of the early Fidelity Trust and Savings Bank, which folded during the 1893 financial panic. Olof Carlson was vice-president of Citizens Bank and Trust Company for a few years. Once William Butler had merged his First National Bank with American National Bank in 1909, David Clough came aboard as a director. Later as the bank solidified its position as Everett’s premier financial institution, William Marion Hulbert joined the board and served until his death in 1919. Later, his son William Glen Hulbert would become a director. By 1923, First National Bank of Everett had 15 directors, five of whom were local lumber men; three of those - David Clough, Herbert J. Clough, and Neil Jamison - ran mills in the NMRA. In subsequent years, the decline of the lumber and shingle industries was reflected in the decline of local lumber men on the bank board. In the early 1960s when First National Bank of Everett was absorbed by Seattle First National Bank, Linden Reichmann was the only local lumber man on the old Everett board, and he had worked for the giant Weyerhaeuser Company. While the early lumber barons may have run the city, they depended on the work force that had arrived by the thousands during the first decade of the 20th century. Some were single men but many were married with families. They came largely from the Midwest, where the lumber industry was in decline, and Canada and Europe. A significant number had Scandinavian roots, especially in the countries of Norway and Sweden. More than 40 percent of Everett’s 1910 foreign born citizenry came from Scandinavian countries and a similar percentage applied to those whose parents had been born in a foreign country. In Everett, it was joked, you didn’t keep up with the NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 38 Jones, you kept up with the Johnsons, who in 1910 outnumbered the Jones by more than three to one. In fact, there were more Andersons, Hansons, Larsons, Nelsons, Olsons or Petersons than there were Jones. A significant number of the men in these families were employed by the city’s mills. Some said that if you wanted to work in a lumber or shingle mill, your last name better end in son. By and large, the sturdy Scandinavians were good employees. They were dependable, industrious, disciplined and some said - humorless. They had the strength and stamina for the demanding physical tasks and the temperament to endure the often tedious nature of the work. There was little argument that the Scandinavians were the backbone of Everett’s wood products labor force. In the words of one pundit: Everett depends on Butler’s gold, Clough’s machines and Johnson’s sweat. Whether the worker was a shingle weaver, or one of the more numerous saw mill employees, he labored in a hazardous environment over which he had little control. Hours were long, the work strenuous, pay mediocre at best, and the mill itself might be shut down at any time for a variety of reasons. Shingle mills, in fact, usually operated full bore from April to November only. Safety was not a consideration. Industrial accidents were common and if a worker suffered an injury requiring a long recuperation, he did not have workmen’s compensation to cover the weeks of lost income. Work in the mill even robbed him of simple pleasures. If he was a tobacco user, he couldn’t smoke in the mill because of the fire danger. So, he might turn to chewing tobacco, stuffing a wad of snoose under his lower lip and periodically expelling out a stream of amber-colored juice that landed on bundles of shingles or carts of twoby-fours. A small rivulet of the brown liquid might trickle down the chin, but could be swept away with the back of his gloved hand. On occasion snoose chewing also provided a bit of levity when a new employee, especially a young one, arrived. The old timers introduced snoose to the young man and chuckled as he found the snoose as great a challenge as his new job. Outside the mill workers settled into life patterns that had common elements. First, if the mill worker was married, he was the bread winner; the wife was not employed outside the home but she was busy doing the endless household chores and raising the children. The family was frugal because it had to be. When the mill was operating - and that wasn’t always the case - there was enough money for essentials, but not much more. With special effort, enough money might be saved to build or buy a working man’s cottage on a typical 25-foot Everett lot. It was not uncommon for a family to have its own chickens, or even a cow if there was the space, and vegetable gardens and fruit trees. The wife was the dutiful cook, canner and cleaner. She mended socks, patched clothes, baked the proverbial apple pie, and prepared the roast that might yield days of left over meals. If she was a capable seamstress - and most were - she might sew many of the family clothes. Store bought clothes were a luxury. Clothing for the children consisted of hand-me-downs that went from the older siblings to the younger ones. Children helped with chores such as carrying in wood, splitting kindling and washing dishes. Most of the husbands were handymen who did their own household NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 39 maintenance and repairs. There wasn’t money to hire a plumber, electrician or painter. For many, the church was the core of family life. By 1910, Everett had more than 45 congregations. There were more Lutheran churches than any other, reflective of the large Scandinavian population. The Lutherans, however, were organized on the basis of national origins with separate churches for Swedes, Norwegians, Danes and Germans. This division demonstrated the tendency for people to cling to native languages and cultural values and to associate with those of their own ethnic background during the early years of the 20th century. Most churches had their own guilds, circles, and societies for members. This was an important aspect of social life as well as religious life. In addition to the church groups there was a plethora of secret, benevolent and miscellaneous societies that folks could join. The 1910 Everett City Directory listed nearly 85 such organizations. The Catholics were the only church denomination to develop a school system that endured. Most children attended the public schools, which might have been the crucial “melting pot” for breaking down the cultural and ethnic barriers. In the schools the Norwegian, Swedish, German, Italian and other children from all socio-economic levels studied, played and socialized together. Importantly, they learned or improved their English. Formal education itself was not particularly valued in the mill worker culture. Boys did not need high school diplomas to succeed as shingle weavers or green chain pullers. And, high school completion certainly was not a prerequisite for success as a mill worker’s wife. In subsequent generations, these values would change as the mill jobs disappeared and the mill workers’ families set higher aspirations for their children. The labor union was another cornerstone institution for most mill workers. A strong union town since its inception, Everett had nearly 30 labor unions by 1910 and an umbrella Trades Council to coordinate efforts. While individual unions sought to improve the lot of workers in a specific industry or trade, collectively the union movement pursued a more expansive role of seeking a better life for the working class. In addition to pushing for the eight-hour day, better wages, and improved working conditions, the union actively promoted social causes such as women’s suffrage and prohibition. The union fought for legislation that led to unemployment insurance, social security, and insurance programs for the ill, disabled and families of fatally injured workers. Union members were encouraged to register and then vote for candidates supportive of labor causes. On the local and national level, the union supported public schools. Union members addressed each other as “brothers” as a gesture of respect and recognition of mutual commitment to the movement. They organized social activities and sponsored baseball, softball and basketball teams. For members in difficulty, the union often assisted with food, housing and medical care. Frequently, these acts of benevolence reached out to non-union members of the community. For many, unionism meant much more than membership in a labor organization. It was a way of life. Any discussion of Everett’s blue-collar culture would be incomplete without mention of NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 40 the community’s seamier side of life. From its inception, Everett had been a rough town with more than its share of saloons, brothels and gambling halls. If anything, this was accentuated during the early mill town years. By 1910 the town had 39 drinking establishments, 32 of them on Hewitt Avenue’s saloon row. These bars were essentially stag hangouts and there were plenty young single men, both mill workers and others, to keep them busy. It would be over simplification, however, to assume these were the only saloon patrons. There was the married shingle weaver or sawyer who like to stop after work to drink with the boys. Life was grueling in the mill. Sometimes it took several beers - or more - to wash away the cares of the day. On pay day, in particular, the wife fretted about how much of the irreplaceable pay check would end up in the saloon keeper’s till and what kind of mood the man of the house might be in when he finally arrived home. Stories abound of the harried wife sending the eldest son to retrieve his father from the local bar. Drinking establishments were outlawed in Everett in 1910 with the decisive vote coming from the mill workers themselves. The ban was soon lifted when the city coffers suffered from the lack of saloon tax revenue. There would be the “Great Experiment” of national prohibition during the 1920s when Hewitt Avenue bars like the Cave, Castle and others became “cafes or confectionaries” and illegal drinking flourished in establishments known as speakeasys. In 1933, prohibition was repealed and bars were back as legal entities. As late as 1960, there still were 30 taverns on Hewitt Avenue. It is no coincidence most of these blue-collar establishments disappeared with the mills. While the mill worker carved his niche, the lumber elite were living in a largely different world. There was likely a lovely home, such as those built by David Clough, Roland Hartley and William Butler. Gardeners, maids and cooks handled mundane tasks. Once automobiles were available, the lumber barons had some of the best. William Butler had a driver to wheel him around in his Packard. Hartley’s garage was heated so his Pierce Arrow would be warm when he climbed in. Like the mill worker’s wife, the lumber man’s wife was not employed outside the home, but unlike the mill worker’s wife, she was not overwhelmed with household tasks. She had time for benevolent activities and social events. She might be an active member of the church women’s guild or the Everett Woman’s Book Club, the city’s oldest women’s organization. Mrs. C.W. Miley and Mrs. M.W. Hulbert, wives of NMRA mill executives, served as presidents of the Book Club in the 1920s. The children most likely attended the public schools, although a few attended private high schools. More value was placed on education and it was not uncommon for the mill executives’ sons and daughters to attend college. Some lumber barons were involved in the governance of the public schools. C.W. Miley served on the Everett School District Board of Directors form 1910 to 1923. Mrs. C.J. Melby, wife of another 14th Street Dock shingle mill executive, was an early leader in the Everett Parents and Teacher Association (PTA). NMRA mill executives were part of a loosely knit group who shared mutually beneficial goals. They belonged to many of the same organizations. One of these was the Cascade Club, an exclusive retreat on the top floor of Butler’s First National Bank Building where, NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 41 in 1916, the lumber men could peer down on the Wobblies ranting at the corner of Hewitt and Wetmore avenues. Here, men like David Clough, Fred Baker, Herbert Clough, William Marion Hulbert, William Glen Hulbert, Roland Hartley, Neil C. Jamison and P. Henry Olwell exchanged thoughts and strategies. Each day Butler himself lunched at the Cascade Club. With the exception of Democrat James E. Bell, most, if not all, of the NMRA mill executives were Republicans. Most belonged to the Masons and the Elks, which had been founded by James E. Bell in 1899. A few, like William Marion Hulbert, Roland Hartley and Neil C. Jamison belonged to Seattle’s prestigious Rainier Club. Several were members of lumber related societies; Roland Hartley belonged to Woodman of the World and Hoo Hoo. E.L. Bishop and Olof Carlson were Modern Woodmen members. There was involvement in service clubs, also. Roland Hartley was a charter member when Everett’s Rotary Club started in 1916. P. Henry Olwell served as the Club president in 1925-26. Olwell also committed himself to leadership in the Boy Scouts of America. He was president of the Evergreen Area Council of Boy Scouts longer than anyone in the Council history. It would be hard to find an organization more influenced by NMRA mill executives than the Everett Golf and Country Club. Eight of the charter members in 1912 had ties to the NMRA as did three of the Club’s first seven presidents. For six of its first 12 years, Everett Golf and Country Club presidents came from the NMRA. Over the years, the following have served in that position: David Clough (1914-1917), T.J. Hartley (1919), Neil Jamison (1920-1921), P. Henry Olwell (1929), Burke G. Barker (1959-1961). If NMRA mill owners had a favorite sport, it must have been golf. While golf may have captured the lumber baron’s fancy, it was another sport that brought the mill owners and workers together. Football was made for blue collar Everett. Bodies colliding, sweat - and sometimes blood - flying, sinewy young men trying to out run or out hit each other. This was the kind of stuff Everett understood and liked. The game required qualities the community esteemed: physical and mental toughness, courage, commitment, aggressiveness, stamina, confidence, pride. When young Enoch “Baggy” Bagshaw, who possessed those traits himself, arrived as Everett High School’s football coach in 1909, he landed in a place ready for his brand of football violence. He produced his first undefeated team in 1911 and for the rest of the decade compiled an incredible record. A 1915 one point defeat by Hoquiam was the only loss to another high school during that period; and it was avenged by a 32 to 0 victory the next year. Bagshaw screeched at his players, berated them, even scrimmaged with them when they failed to meet expectations. They responded by squashing most opponents, like the 174 to 0 thrashing of Bellingham in 1913. Everett loved it and football brought a frequently divided community together. Mill owners and mill workers might disagree on many issues but they could agree that Everett High football was simply the best. Bagshaw culminated his Everett stay with mythical national championship teams in 1919 and 1920. The state governor was among the thousands of spectators who poured into town for those national championship games. Bagshaw moved on to be University of Washington head football coach in 1921 and several of his NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 42 Everett High stars followed him. He was the coach who took Washington to the Rose Bowl for the first time. Later he would become state director of transportation under none other than Governor Roland Hartley of Everett. When Bagshaw died suddenly in 1930, Everett Port Commission president Nels Weborg eulogized him as “the lodestone around which civic activities centered. It did not matter whether it was banker or laborer, the merchant or professional man, they all met on common ground when Baggy and football matters were under discussion…The rich man would discuss it by the hour with his poorest neighbor and from this sprang an era of civic solidarity that may never come again.” There was never the chance for another national football title but there were several state championships. One of those state championship coaches was fiery Jim Ennis who bellowed at his players, “Don’t embarrass yourselves. Remember that Baggy’s bones are buried in this field.” In subsequent decades, Everett High School became a “cradle of coaches” producing such nationally known football coaches as Jim Lambright, Jim’s son Terry Ennis, Mike Price and Dennis Erickson. To a man, each would point to the Bagshaw/Ennis tradition as an inspiration. While the credit is well deserved it also should be noted that blue-collar mill town Everett had provided the perfect stage for football success. Finally, the influence of the NMRA on Everett’s development can be seen in the city’s built environment. A mill town uses its own products for its structures and that certainly is the case in Everett. There are literally thousands of houses and other structures built with local lumber and much of that lumber came out of the North Marina Area mills. The houses range from small working man cottages to opulent homes like the Hartley mansion. The lumber was high quality and a substantial number of the houses survive in 2008. Most of the large wooden buildings are gone but many of the two-story commercial frame structures are around in 2008. Once, virtually every house, woodshed and garage in town was protected by a roof of Everett red cedar shingles. Some live on today covered with composition roofs. It would be a stretch to find shingle roofs today that could be traced to the NMRA. The last shingle mill went down over 40 years ago and a roof from that time is not likely to have survived to 2008. Appreciation for mill town Everett’s structures is quite simple. Just walk or drive the city streets. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 43 COMMERICAL FISHING INDUSTRY Everett’s Fishing Heritage The Everett commercial fishing industry has been a major occupant in the North Marina Redevelopment Area (NMRA) since the 1940s. However, it is necessary to go back a half century before that to understand its importance to the area - back to the fishing village of Komiza on the island of Vis in present-day Croatia, then part of the Hapsburg AustroHungarian Empire. Vis is an island in Adriatic Sea off the Dalmatian Coast, about a two-hour ferry ride from the Croatian seaport of Split. Komiza, a small village located on the west side of the island, was the birthplace of fishing on the east side of the Adriatic. The fishing industry in Komiza goes back to the fifteenth century. When these fishermen, along with their families, left their homeland for a better life in America, they brought with them an outstanding of fishing skills acquired from centuries of fishing around the outlying islands of the Vis archipelago, but also the perseverance, endurance and courage needed in a time when fishing boats were driven by wind and human muscles. First of these Slavs (simplified from Yugoslavia and often pronounced with a short a rhyming with halves), as the Komiza villagers called themselves, to come to Everett, was Anton “Old Tony” Mardesich in 1898. He arrived looking for fish, at time when there were about 45 millions pounds of salmon caught off the West Coast of the United States. He chose Everett, but there were many cities up and down the coast that were also destined to become commercial fishing centers. Paul Martinis came to the United States from Vis in 1913. A hard worker, he was aided by Old Tony Mardesich and eventually saved enough to bring over three brothers. Paul went on to become the patriarch of the Everett commercial fishing industry and the brothers became very successful, each skippering his own purse seiner in Alaskan waters. (A purse is a fishing boat and described in depth below.) Another Slavic family that moved to this country for a brighter future was that of Nicola “Nick” and Mary (Felando) Mardesich. Nicola, a distant cousin of Old Tony, was also from Komiza on the Isle of Vis, where he had tended a vineyard. Besides being the fishing masters of the Adriatic, the people of Vis were also expert wine makers. In San Pedro, California Nick met the woman he would marry. She came from a Slavic fishing family. They moved to Tacoma where he got into the fishing business. Eventually they settled in Everett. Cousins Jay Borovina, Mike Borovina and Vincent “Butch” Barcott (whose mother was a Borovina) followed in their grandfather‘s footsteps. The Borovinas were still another family from Vis who came to Everett. Jay broke tradition with his father and NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 44 grandfather who fished off purse seiners. Jay was a gillnetter who often in the False Pass area of Alaska‘s Aleutian Islands. Jay’s son Joe also fished, making four generations of Borovinas involved in the Everett commercial fishing industry as of 2008. (A gillnetter refers to a person or his fishing boat, and is described at length below.) Also tracing their roots back to Komiza were members of the Zuanich family. Some of them came to Everett, but an even larger number ended up in Bellingham. Like Everett, Bellingham had a large population of Slav fishing families, as did Seattle, Tacoma, Anacortes, Blaine, Gig Harbor, Astoria, Oregon and San Pedro, California. Local fishing families also came from other islands in Croatia, including Brac and Vela Luca. The Slav immigrants often sponsored relatives who also came here to fish, resulting in the birth of an Everett commercial fishing fleet. The Slavs who moved here were a tightly knit group of families, almost all of whom depended on commercial fishing for a livelihood. Those in the fishing industries co-existed with the mills on the waterfront, but had little connection with them. The Slavs tended to keep to themselves in the early days. The first generation spoke Slavic all their lives and went about the work living quiet and private lives. The second generation learned English faster and with greater proficiency. In 2008 Wini (Joncic) Mardesich, now in her 90s, remembered accompanying her Slavic father when he went to the bank. She would do the talking because her English was better. However, it also gave her shrewd father time to think about what the bankers were saying and make wise financial decisions. The children acclimated to American culture easily, but also had to know some of the old language. All the Slavs were Catholic and as one Slav quipped, the good ones went to church. In 2008 Matt Zuanich, deacon at Immaculate Conception Church, said the Slavs were devout Catholics and remembered in his fishing days that the boats had a Crucifix and picture of the Sacred Heart or Last Supper. Most of the Slavs attended the Bayside Catholic church, Immaculate Conception, because they lived in that part of town. In 2008 Barbara (Martinis) Piercey remembered her school days. “I have a childhood memory of when I was attending Immaculate Conception School. St. Nicolas was the patron saint of Komiza. The village had a celebration on St. Nicolas Day in December each year. Part of the celebration was a huge bon fire. Typically an old fishing boat would be used for the bon fire. Anyway, in Everett on St. Nicolas Day at the early weekday mass (which all pupils were encouraged to attend) in the back of the church would be several pews of fishermen in their work clothes attending the Mass on St. Nicolas Day.” Perhaps the fishing families lived on the west side of town to be closer to their boats and their source of survival. The 2700 block of Grand Avenue was once dubbed “Garlic Alley” because of the concentration of Slavs living there and their preference of garlic in their cooking. The Polk Everett City Directories show that between 1932 and 1967 no fewer than five of the households on the block were occupied by Slavic fishing families, and in 1939 there were 10. Some surnames show up more than once on the block. Families who resided there were Bacich, Barcott, Borovina, Cupic, Dragovich, Drazich, Marincovich, Ruljanicich, Separovich, Vlastelica, and Zuanich. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 45 Other Slavic fishing names in the community were Joncich, Barhanovich, Bogdanovich, Plenkovich, Andrich, Milatich, Bakalich, Domondich, Vitalich, Matich Burich, Makovich and Radovich. In 2008 Dr. Roland Hublou, a local dentist and a successful fisherman, quipped that he would’ve had an easier time getting on a fishing crew in his youth had his surname ended with -ich. Many of the Slavs had the same names, first and last. One member of the Borovina family said they wanted to keep a good thing going. Slavs from Komiza had an unspoken protocol for naming their children. They stared with grandparents’ names, then parents’ names and the names of aunts and uncles. It was a way to honor family members. What creativity they may have lacked in giving birth names they made up for assigning nicknames. For example, with as many as seven individuals named Paul Martinis, nicknames were a way of identifying each. There were Paul Sr., Paul Jr., Doro Paul (his wife’s name), Freeland Paul (his boat), Seaside Paul (his home for a period of time), Tall Paul (his height), and so on. An outsider might only know a nickname and never know a person’s real name. Children palled around with those of other Slavic fishing families and often went to each other’s homes. Barbara (Martinis) Piercey remembered that her Aunt Pearl Martinis, wife of Paul Sr., would rent a summer cabin at Lake Stevens and the kids would go there to swim, row boats and maybe spend the night. Wives and children would gather there while the men were in Alaska fishing for the summer. Family was all important and the boys loved going out on the fishing boats. Many of their children went into the fishing business. When they first went out on the fishing boats, it was a family affair and any money the kids made belonged to their fathers. This was true even after they were old enough to earn a share. August Mardesich, son of Nick Mardesich, recalled that he was 16 before he got a share. Since the men were gone fishing so much of the time, it was natural that the women ran the households. Life was difficult and the work was too, but their mettle and work ethic paid off. The Slavs were noted for being fiercely competitive at sea, but very close at home. They had active social lives and often gathered at each other’s homes during the holidays. They might sing along with Vera Mardesich on the piano or Johnny Joncich on the accordion. A celebration of Saint Nicholas Day in the early part of January took place at the impressive home of Nick Mardesich, 1821 Grand Avenue. Other celebrations were held at other homes. Wini (Joncich) Mardesich recalled that a party would start at one home and move on to several other homes before ending at the Paul Martinis home. The same people would be at the open houses. Non-Slavic friends were welcome too. Not all of the major fishing families were Slavs. Ferdinand Leese, a man of German extraction, left Port Hope, Michigan where he fished Lake Huron, looking for a more moderate climate. He went to Florida and California before arriving in Seattle where he found too many hills. From there he came to Everett. He liked it and he stayed. He was accompanied by his sons Bob and August. The year was 1910. They planned to fish here. Soon more of the Leeses came. August encountered problem when he built his NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 46 first boat here. He was used to fresh water and the plentiful oak of the Midwest. Oak worked well for planking; it would swell up and not leak. Here, where oak was not common, he used fir. Fir didn’t swell up, but dried above the water line and subsequently leaked. August had four sons who followed him in the fishing business. By the 1940s each of them had his own purse seiner. Albert skippered the Sunset, Walter the Montague, Wilhelm the Mermaid and Emil the Solta. Several of the next generation went into fishing too. As a child, William O. “Buddy” Leese knew he’d follow in his grandfather’s and father’s footsteps. As a young child he’d set the net from his wagon in his back yard. William’s son William skippered the Intrepid and his daughters Karen’s and Susan’s husbands, Lonnie Lindemuth and Jim Waltz, respectively, fished out of Everett. In 2008 the next generation is fishing, making six generations in all. Jim and Dick, Emil’s sons, who also knew they’d be involved in fishing, also fished out of Everett. Dick fished on the Solta. Jim bought the Polarland from the Martinis family and fished with it for 40 years. In 2008 it is now owned by his son Jim. His son Jared is another of the sixth generation Leeses in the fishing business. A good number of Everett fishermen came from Scandinavia too, especially Norway. Norway, a country with an extensive coast, had many who made their living from the sea. When they came here they mainly fished with gillnetters. Herb Larsen was a long time purse seiner. Cliff Melling was a gillnetter who fished the False Pass area in the Aleutian Island chain. Brothers Joe and Mark Ludwig are still gillnetting in 2008. They are among the Bristol Bay, Alaska fishermen. Some of the other gillnetters were Bob Lundberg, Ron Erickson, Peter Arnestad and Cliff Thompson, who long shored in addition to fishing. Oscar Jensen was a gillnetter who was known for his speed and skill in making nets. Dick Almvig, also from and Everett fishing family, recalled in 2008 that in the days of cotton nets, nobody could piece them together faster than Jensen. “He was a tough guy and so quick with his hands,” said Almvig. “It was unbelievable how he produced nets. There was no one else like him.” Some shared the Slavic and Scandinavian heritage. Fishermen Guy and Paul Piercey, sons of Jim and Barbara Piercey, have the blood of Aadnevig (Olsen) from their father and that of the Croatians Martinis, Mardesich and Marincovich - from their mother. Setting the Scene And so a thriving Everett waterfront commercial fishing industry became a vital part of the community. The fleet was moored at the piers and docks south of the North Marina Area along Port Gardner Bay (currently the Port of Everett’s shipping terminals). The fleet fished locally and in Alaska. Men at first worked for skippers on other boats. If they were prudent they could make good money and eventually buy their own boat. There were plenty of boat builders in the Puget Sound area eager to construct vessels for them. There were several methods of catching the fish. Trollers worked with hooks and poles hanging from the back of the boat with plugs and spoon lures to catch salmon. Long- NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 47 lining employed a line with an anchor at one end and a buoy on the other. On the line were baited hooks. When the line was dropped to the ocean bottom to soak for maybe a day, halibut and cod would take the bait. There were also trawlers and draggers. However, most of the commercial fishing vessels moored on the Everett harbor used nets; they were purse seiners and gillnetters and they were looking for salmon. Purse seiners, said to have originated on the Dalmatian coast, were the larger of the two. A seine is a large fishing net that hangs vertically in water by attaching weights along the bottom edge and floats, or corks, along the top. The weights pull the net down, while the corks give control and buoyancy. Boats, about 50 feet long, equipped for seine fishing are called seiners. Along the bottom of the net, or seine, are bridles. Rings hang from the bridles. A rope (made of nylon in later years) is passed through the rings and drawn together similar to a purse with a draw string, thus the name purse seiner. When it purses it prevents any fish from escaping. Boats equipped with purse seines are called purse seiners. Once fish are trapped the net is pulled toward the purse seiner. The fish are then lifted out with small nets, taken out with brailers, or the whole net is brought in. In modern times the catch might be pumped out. Setting the net is a short process. It can be done in as little as five minutes, if necessary. Usually it takes 15 to 20 minutes. The early nets were about 250-300 fathoms long. Each purse seiner carries a smaller flat-bottomed craft, 16 to 18 feet in length, called a skiff or dory. Up until about 1930 it was rowed by hand. After deciding where the fish are likely to be, two men in the skiff haul one end of the net out from the seiner. Then the seiner makes a wide half circle around the fish. When the two vessels meet one man gets back into the seiner with one end of the net. The skiff then pulls the seiner to keep it out of the net. Usually the fishermen can see the fish circling in the net. Often the tide would change, confusing the fish so they didn’t know which way to go. Understanding the tides is an absolute necessity. If the fish appear to be reaching safety, they are scared into the net with a plunger. The net is held in position against the current for varying lengths of time until the purse is tightened. As the purse line is drawn taut the fish are trapped in the net. The rings are pulled out of the water first and the rest of the net follows. A power block, or maybe a drum, is used to bring in the net. In the meantime the skiff pulls back away from the net. In the early day strips of each net were sewn together by hand with heavy twine using hand-carved needles and were preserved with oil or tar to protect them from the salt water. The seiner had a turntable on which the net was folded. As the turntable rotated it permitted the seine to pay out from either side or stern ensuring it didn’t tangle. During a set it is necessary to watch out for hazards on the ocean floor. Anything in the set is part of the catch. Fishermen brought up almost everything imaginable. In 2008 Frank Zuanich, who had a purse seiner, recalled such an experience in the late 1960s. He brought up part of a wing from a sunken P-38 aircraft while fishing off Port Susan on the Camano Island side in about 52 fathoms of water. Full of sand and mud, it was too heavy to be brought to the surface. The stern was going down, so he enlisted the help of a couple other fishing boats. They pulled it to the west side of Hat NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 48 Island, cut the net, and unloaded it in three or four fathoms. The P-38 had presumably crashed a quarter century earlier during World War II while on maneuvers out of Paine Field. The brailer brailed, or hauled, the fish from the seine into hull storage. It was a large dip net with an attached handle that passed through fish scooping them up. Fishermen used a picaroon (a type of gaff) to get the fish into the brailer. This was extremely hard work as each fish weighed about five pounds. The men brailed the load into a tender that carried it to a receiving scow or cannery where prices were predetermined. If the cannery was close enough the seiner took the fish directly there. They took the fish to a tender or cannery daily so they would have to ice them. It wasn’t unusual for the crew to rise at 4a.m. and get in place to set the net by 5a.m. They might fish until 9p.m. having set the net 10 to 15 times during the day. Then it was necessary to get the catch to the tender, so they might not bed down until 11p.m. It was indeed exhausting work. The seine was on the stern deck, piled up on the turntable of the boat. On the rear of the turntable was a power-driven roller that assisted in pulling the heavy net aboard. Beyond the seine was the hatch into which the catch was dumped. Forward were tow bitts, winch, mast and a boom for handling the brail (brailer), or dipper. The deckhouse included the wheelhouse, while the crews’ quarters, galley and engine room were below deck. Next to the boat the most important thing to the fisherman was his net. A full set of gear and many yards of spare material from the previous years’ web were stowed prior to departure, so the inevitable snag and handling tears could be repaired and fishing could go on with a minimum of delay. A purse seiner required about eight crewmen in the early days. If it was smaller, it might need only six. The shares were divided among the crewmen. There were usually two shares for the boat and another two for the net. With advances in technology the number of hands on board necessary to man the boat decreased. The crew worked for a percentage or share of the catch. There were no hourly wages. The skipper was also the banker. He kept records and knew how much each crewman had drawn against his earnings right down to the nickel. He might have the man sign for his draws and he knew exactly how many pounds of fish had come in and how much they sold for. A man’s word was as good as his handshake and that’s how business was handled. Later as purse seiner and gillnetters associations were formed, it was done by contract. At first many members were relatives and tough strong men 23 to 38 years in age. It was a coveted job with many applicants. Skippers, or captains could be selective. Once aboard, the skipper was the boss - period. A gillnetter is a smaller vessel, usually a one-man operation. The opportunity for the huge catch doesn‘t exist, but there were plenty of successful gillnetters. Independent men chose this because it was less expensive and they could be their own boss. And they were absolutely on their own, unlike purse seining which was a group effort and done during the day. The gillnetters could go out and come back when they wanted, without worrying about a crew. Some even had other jobs such as long shoring. Gillnet, NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 49 is the name given to the net used to snare target fish. The fish try to swim through the net and get stuck in the mesh when their gills keep them from backing up. Larger fish don’t get stuck and smaller fish swim right through. Different sizes of mesh can be used for different kinds of fish. The gillnets are typically 1,800 feet long for local fishing, 1,200 feet in Alaska. They are 60 meshes deep, with cork on the top and lead on the bottom and lanterns on the end. The net trails out behind the boat and can be let out in 20 minutes. Then it’s a matter of watching to see if the corks bob. The net can even be detached and checked with spotlights to see how many fish are snared. Finally, the net is pulled in, and the fish are plucked from the net. In the early days it was pulled in by hand. Later it was pulled in by a mechanized reel with a foot pedal. Reels were illegal in Alaska so they used a power block. An advantage gillnetters have over purse seiners is that once the fish are caught, they can’t get away. And while they are being brought in, still more are being snared. A purse seiner runs the risk of the fish escaping before the bottom string is pursed. The gillnets were not as heavy, nor was the cork or lead. While the purse seiners generally fished during the day, gillnetters fished at night. Joe Barcott Jr., who later became an attorney, fished on his father’s gillnetter. He reflected in 2008 that nothing was as exciting at night in a silent drift to have an orca surface nearby and spout through its blow holes. Everett fishermen eventually fished for all kinds of fish from halibut to hake, but initially it was salmon they were seeking in Puget Sound waters and in Alaska. The most sought after salmon were the Kings, which included whites and tyees. Also called Chinook, the smaller immature Chinooks known as blackmouth. They could reach 60 pounds in size. Equally prized were the Sockeye or red. The immature were called bluebacks. Sockeye salmon were a prime commercial species. The Coho or silver were fast, acrobatic fighters reaching 14 to 16 pounds. The Pink salmon, a small species, were sometimes called humpies because of their humped backs. Finally there were the chum or dog salmon, so-called because of their teeth. They were found near fresh water and averaged 10 to 15 pounds. Pacific salmon are anatropous; that is, they are hatched in fresh water, swim downstream to salt water, attain more of their growth there, and return to where they were hatched to spawn. Thus, they have very well-developed homing instincts. This worked to the fishermen’s advantage because they had some idea where they could expect to find the fish. While there was much fishing in the Puget Sound area, the fishing that probably drew the most attention and captured the imagination was that in Alaska. Before the season seine boats clustered in the Everett harbor, concentrating at Tract M, near Piers 1 and 2 and the Everett Yacht Club. The crews were preparing them for the arduous season’s work. In March owners and crews began carefully checking over the boats and powerful diesel motors. Some of the craft were practically rebuilt, planks and stays replaced and motors overhauled. Making the web of the seine ready for the season’s work was one of the big pre-sailing jobs for the skipper and his crew. Repairs at the fishing banks were costly. Materials were far away and time was lost from the season’s fishing. On May 1 the crews were called together and the final work on the boats completed. Nets were NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 50 repaired and new seines assembled. It was hard and heavy work, but it was neither as hard nor as heavy as that which would be undertaken when the fishing season opened. But there was a romance the men liked and the thrill of the challenge of the sea. Get away day in May or June was a major event with flags flying from the mastheads and air horns blasting as the seiners pulled away from their mooring places alongside Fishermen’s Packing dock or Pier 1. Families crowded the docks to say goodbye and wish them a safe and successful trip. Often Ed Taylor in his yacht Faun, Otto Johnson in his yacht Hobby, and Joe Dragovich in his seiner Congress accompanied the northbound seiners to Hat Island to help bring back to the mainland those who weren’t going on the trip. Folks from town headed to Hat Island, dropped the anchor and had a big cookout on the island. They cooked whole pigs or lambs. Off Hat Island boats might be lashed together for one big farewell party. At the day’s end the boats pulled away for the northern waters. As the years passed, get away day wasn’t as elaborate. Some, such as the Leeses, like to slipped out quietly with a prayer that all would go well. Seventy-two hours later the fishing boats were in Ketchikan. The inland route through the rock-ribbed and sharp-reefed passage was frequently fog bound. At Icy Straits they turned west for the long sail across the open, storm-swept Gulf of Alaska to False Pass. There they crossed between the mainland and the Aleutian chain into Bristol Bay and the Bering Sea. In the 1920s it took a month to reach the area. Without any means of communications or electronic gear, they were on their own, dependent on the stars, a compass, crude charts and a lead line for sounding. In the early years from about 1910 to 1930, the men fished with no radar, no radio and no power rolls or power blocks on board. Until 1930 skiffs were rowed by hand. For cooking there were wood stoves. There was no refrigeration so the boat’s stores included a barrel of flour, sides of beef hanging from the rigging and live chickens in the skiff. In those days the fishing industry consisted almost all Slavs, except for a few Norwegians. There was a great camaraderie among the fishermen. Original purse seiners were small, 45 feet long wooden vessels built all around the Sound. They had one little house on the deck which was the steering house - some had a place where captain slept. The engine room, living quarters and mess hall were down below open to each other. August Mardesich remembered after a day’s work his father would bring his boat into a cluster of Croatian boats that were tied together. This provided a forum where men told stories, debated, offered advice and shared tales of their day’s activities. They were fiercely independent, yet showed ethnic loyalty, in this island of vulnerable fishermen, where a man’s word was his soul and his handshake a contract. Komiza on the island of Vis, besides being a fishing center, was famous for its wine making. The fishermen had barrels of wine in the hatch and they tied 50 gallon barrels on each side of the bow. There was wine with lunch and dinner and they had liquor aboard, but heavy drinking was not common on the boat. Also aboard were 60 boxes of raisins. When they ran out of wine they made it out of the raisins in the barrels. They NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 51 stood the barrels on end, took the covers off one of the ends, stuck the raisins in and filled it with water to make wine. When they drained it they threw the raisins overboard. They joked that the fish got drunk and were easier to catch. They took canned food along with sides of beef. The beef was heavily wrapped in coarse cloth and taken them un-aged so it would age during the trip. The men carved a little off each day. When it was gone, they’d move on to the smoke hams, smoked lambs etc. The Alaskan canneries had supplies for the fishermen. They ate fish four evenings a week, but didn‘t get tired of it since they prepared different dishes: stew, bouillabaisse, fried, broiled, baked. This included salmon, flounder, sole and cod. Then they washed it down with the raisin wine. The cook was a crew member who also helped on the nets. A good cook knew to use a lot of garlic. The fishermen had to figure out where the fish would be. They had to think like a fish. so they watched the tide. If several fishing boats came into an area known to have a lot of fish, there was a gentlemen’s agreement that they would take turns. Sometimes fishermen would cut it in line instead of waiting their turn. Then it was fair game to “cork” them; that it, set your net in front of theirs and get the fish. The competition was real and corking was part of that. It was often accompanied by nasty comments or a hurled tomato. Sometimes they’d cork in fun if there weren’t any fish. In August of each year, their work in the northern seas completed, the fleet returned south for fall fishing with the hundreds of purse seine boats that operated each year in Washington waters. Whistles sounded again when the boats returned, but there wasn’t all the commotion of get away day. Fishermen were glad to get off their boats and spend time with their families. The parties would come later. After a short rest from their Alaskan trip they worked until November along Cape Flattery, the fishing banks of Puget Sound, around the San Juan Islands and even in Everett’s Port Gardner Bay to fill their nets with silvery salmon. While working on the Sound they often stayed out about a week and sold their catches to the fresh fish markets and to the canneries of the Northwest. A few fished for sardines off the California coast during the winter months. There was the “five-month weekend” between the salmon seasons when they worked on boats and net repairs. In the old days they used wooden needles to mend the nets. Boats might have dry rot or other problems and go into dry dock for the repair. Cotton nets were dipped in tar to preserve them during the season of salt-water fishing. Fishermen will tell you the smell of tarred nets and corks and lines on a wooden boat was unforgettable. The later nylon nets, Styrofoam corks and synthetic lines endured better, but didn’t have the aroma. During the home months men overhauled their boats and their gear. Almost every small boat mooring in Everett sheltered several of these small crafts. About 100 were purse seiners. Six were tenders that carried the fish from the receiving scows and boats to the cannery. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 52 Closely related to the fishing industry (for obvious reasons) was the local canning industry. In the 1920s Everett Packing Corporation and American Packing Company were located south of the North Marina Area on the piers near the Tract M home of the fishing fleet. In 1928 Fishermen’s Packing Corporation was organized by Puget Sound fishermen so they were guaranteed of having a cannery that would take their catch. They purchased Everett Packing Company on Pier 1 near the fleet and operated from that location. Of the 76 purse seiner founders of Fishermen’s Packing, 11 were from Everett. Tacoma, Bellingham and Seattle all had more. This was very important for the city to land the cannery. Members in the co-op would grow to 225. Crabbing Some individuals found a special niche in catching seafood. Jack Moskovita, also known as “The Crab King,” was such an example. A familiar figure on the Everett waterfront, he followed his father’s footsteps in Puget Sound catching Dungeness, the sweetest of all crabs. He used crab traps, or pots, baited with dogfish livers, herring, cod and pollock. The traps were lowered to the bottom, marked with buoys and checked daily. It might take 40 or so mighty pulls with his arms to get them up. (In 2008 a motorized line hauler is used to bring up crab pots.) He then culled the crabs, sorted them by size and placed them in containers. Moskovita sold them at sea or out of his panel truck with “The Crab King” painted on the sides. This was a small operation compared with salmon fishing, but in October 1958 he came in with a big load of crabs, 35 dozen, the take of the 100 pots he had operating off Hat Island. The Crab King’s boat was his throne, but he also had a shop he called “The Building” where he sold engine parts, propellers and other tools of the trade. At a time when it was not common, his wife Louise worked side by side with him on their gillnetter, baiting and checking traps. In November 1958 Moskovita towed the 45-foot Sheran, which belong to Ernie Nelson of Marysville, in from a point near Jetty Island. A deadhead had knocked a hole in its bow. This was just one of many examples of how fishermen often answered the call of distress by others. Fish Processing and the 1930s By the 1930s the commercial fishing industry was well entrenched in Everett and around Puget Sound. In the summer of 1930 more than 800 men who wrested their living from the sea and more than 100 purse seiners, tenders and scows operating for Fishermen’s Packing Corporation, expanded their fishing range ocean ward in a search for even more fish. Times were getting tougher as the Great Depression took hold. Nick Mardesich often left part of his catch on Pier 1, so the poor in town could eat. He felt that it was necessary to give something back to the community, part of the ethic woven into the fishing culture. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 53 In 1936 those going to Alaska from Everett and their seiners were Tony Mardesich, Silverland; Vince Martinis, Frostland; Paul Martinis, Iceland; Frank Barcott Jr., Lemes, and John Mardesich, Tatoosh. Prominent at that time among Everett fishermen were Lee Makovich, president of Fishermen’s Packing Corporation and Tony Mardesich, first of the purse seine fishermen to settle in Everett. At that time there might only be a half dozen boats in the whole of westward Alaska and they were from Everett or Tacoma. The industry was then congregated below the Great Northern Railway depot at Tract M, between Piers 1 and 2 near the old Yacht Club. The Port’s storage facilities here were used more and more by the purse seine fleet for winter storage. Boats were hauled up to dry and undergo repairs to prepare them for returning to salt water. With the success of the fishing industry here, the area was crowded. That led Paul Martinis, Nick Mardesich and others to appear in spring 1937 before the Port Commission with a proposition for net shed storage. It would provide storage for the seines and other fishing gear. The Port agreed to move the fishing operation north to Tract O. A major setback for the Everett fishing industry was Fishermen’s Packing Corporation’s decision in December 1937 to relocate their operations to Anacortes, which had made a favorable offer to the corporation. In addition, Anacortes was closer to the fishing areas. This proximity could mean a savings of $5,000 in getting a tender to the cannery. Many feared the exodus of the cannery might also mean the loss of the fleet. Others said it wouldn’t adversely affect those involved in the fishing industry here. The women - finest in the Northwest - that worked at the cannery could be housed in Anacortes during the canning season. Also the Port of Everett was making it attractive to moor here with more space and a new net drying and storage shed at Tract O. The reception that Everett had accorded the fishermen would justify staying here. Paul Martinis and Nick Mardesich led a futile fight to keep the cannery in Everett. Early in 1938 the move was made and Fishermen’s Packing Corporation (previously Everett Packing Company in the old nail works building) was no longer a presence in Everett. The old building was dismantled in 1940. Other action was taking place at the same time farther north on the Everett waterfront that would positively affect the fishing industry. Congressional funding was to be used to prevent the silt settling located in the basin south of 14th Street Dock. The sediment would be pumped over to Jetty Island, thus creating a deep harbor. Also the federal government let a contract for removal of shoaling in the upper harbor. The Port had used dredged material from the harbor improvement to fill in the Norton Avenue (West Marine View Drive) trestle and expected to push this work to ultimate completion providing the community with a fine waterfront thoroughfare serving existing industries and attracting others. Dovetailing with the above was the opening on February 1, 1938 of the new $60,000 Norton Avenue (West Marine View Drive) viaduct over the Great Northern tracks at 22nd Street. The substantial structure would be a boon to waterfront traffic and fire protection. For several years, vehicles including fire trucks, had been using a rough detour and a grade crossing, following condemnation and destruction of NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 54 the old timber span at the site. Now there was a new concrete, steel and treated timber bridge. Later that year the Port secretary was instructed to call on the District Engineer asking the Public Works Administration for the dredging of the proposed settling basin at 14th Street Dock. World War II, the Port of Everett and Commercial Fishing The local commercial fishing industry changed during the 1940s. Salmon fishing along the Aleutian Islands was curtailed during World War II because of the Japanese presence; they were lobbing shells into Dutch Harbor and setting up bases elsewhere in the Aleutian chain. The War did bring some technological improvements to the fishing industry. Navigation aids like fathometers, sonar depth-sounders and radar were improved and compacted. However, the advancements forced fishermen to invest more into their boats and equipment. Just as the boats, gear and means of operation had become more functional, the farewell parties changed as well. Now they were held dockside rather than afloat. The biggest affect the War had on the Everett commercial fishing industry occurred in 1942 when the War Powers Act claimed Tract O, which included fishing boat moorage and the new net shed area, for a proposed U.S. Naval shipyard. (The Navy had control of the land until January 1959. The Port controlled the land until the Naval Homeport was built in the early 1990s.) In July 1943 mitigation for the fishermen’s loss was announced. Word was received from U.S. Rep. Henry Jackson and U.S. Sen. Mon Wallgren that the war production board had approved priority application of the Everett Port Commission to provide new moorage and net sheds in the 14th Street area. Contractors were notified at once, the contracts heretofore having been negotiated. The Puget Sound Bridge and Dredge Co. of Seattle held contract for the dredging and the bulkhead at the new site at the south of 14th Street and west of Norton Avenue. This recently acquired Port of Everett property, which had been listed as tax title lands by the city and county, would require the dredging of an estimated 146,000 cubic yards. The American Pile Driving Co. of Everett would handle actual construction of the bulkhead for the Puget Sound Co. Carl Tschdin and Associates of Seattle would move the old Ferry Baker sawmill building from the old mill site to the new port tract and it would be used as a net shed. Port Commission Secretary Weborg estimated that the project would cost $90,000 without the mooring installations that would be done from time to time. The work promised relief to the Everett fishing fleet in early fall of 1943. The Port was awarded a $233,500 verdict for facilities taken over by the U.S. Navy at Tract O. Continuing its policy of proceeding with a comprehensive program of port development as finances permitted, the Port of Everett was expending $100,000 on its new facilities for the fishing industry just south of the Fourteenth Street dock. There would rise a net shed, dock, apron and other appurtenances for a modern moorage. The Port was also acquiring land known as Baxter property lying immediately north of 14th St. trestle and west of the lands now owned by the Port at the intersection of Norton and the trestle. The Baxter land would be used for filling of the Norton Avenue trestle. Timbers from the old trestle would be used for construction of the NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 55 port’s fill north of the 14th Street fill. There was also talk of putting blacktop on Norton Avenue. After being shunted from pillar to post since the government took over the old net shed site on Tract O, by the summer of 1944 the Everett fleet again had a home in which to store its nets and other gear. It was the commodious new net shed structure on the new fill at 14th Street. Adjoining it to the east was the new fish processing plant of the Bozeman Canning Company, which was 58 by 115 feet, two stories high and had concrete floors. Both of the buildings were mill-type construction with iron roofs and sidings covered with a combination of asphalt and asbestos coating. The Puget Sound Bridge and Dredge Company was completing the last of the rock rip-rap and channel digging necessary. The net shed building, 90 by 320 feet, was called one of the best and largest of its kind on the Sound and it had every possible facility for easy and quick storage for nets and fishing gear of purse seine boats. There were 20 stalls in the shed, each 16 by 90 feet and two stories tall, with provisions for hanging and storing nets plenty big enough to store a lot of equipment, hang long nets and refurnish battered gear during the off season. The stalls were numbered west to east with no Number 13. Steel sheets that were later painted by H.O. Seiffert acted as walls. Large doors were located on the south side facing the dock and water while windows provided light on the north side. Just a few feet from the docks, it was easy to tie up a fishing boat almost right next door. The shed was equipped with an automatic sprinkler system, a modern lighting system and eventually a fire alarm system. The purse seine stalls were first leased by John Borovina, Vince Bogdanovich, Frank Barcott, John Bacoka, J. Christensen, Joe Dragovich, Nick Joncich, Nick Koster, Albert Leese, Paul Martinis, Tony Martinis, Vince Martinis, John Mardesich, Nick Mardesich, Tony Morosevich, Jo Mardesich, W.G. Stanfield, Roy White and A.A. Zuanich. The Port and Fishermen’s Association agreed on a rental fee of $80 per year that included moorage for the lessee’s boat. The Port also charged a dollar a month per shed for electricity. Eventually, the Port furnished a night watchman, day caretaker services, water, trash removal, insurance, and repairs on the building, floats and wharves. Although only a young boy at the time, Paul V. Martinis (Freeland Paul) remembered the move from Tract O to the net sheds. They simply put everything on his father’s seiner and took it over to put in the net shed. He remembered the fascination he had growing up at the net sheds - it was “ aTom Sawyer place to be.” For the two or three weeks leading up to the summer salmon opening, it was like a carnival with all the sheds open, crews working on nets and other gear, and painting the boats, and getting groceries and doing everything necessary to prepare for the season. The Port’s new dock adjacent to the sheds offered purse seiner moorage for the first time. Previously they would have to go into dry storage during the off season. The first use of the dock was made by Nick Mardesich’s Sunset on his return from an annual fishing trip off False Pass. The dock had more than 500 feet of dock face and the water was 14 feet deep at low tide. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 56 The Port still needed to dredge the channel south of 14th Street to provide deeper water for the fishing fleet now operating from the new facilities. In January 1945 the Port agreed that all parts of the project south of 14th be held for a fishermen’s and small boat storage and repair site subject to lease. Each year by May the fishermen’s net shed at 14th Street Dock was a busy place these days with three crews of three boats rushing work on their seines in preparation for trips to the Far North and other fishermen keeping their gear in shape for the beam trolling operations in this area. Within a week, the Martinis brothers, Paul, Vince and Tony would take their three seiners to Alaskan waters in search of salmon. They were the only Everett fishermen planning to trip to the Aleutians that summer. Most of the fishermen were concentrating on local dogfish. The Sunlight, owned by Nick Joncich and operated by his son, John Joncich, was specializing in bringing in bottom fish with the extraction of livers. Joncich planned to continue bottom fishing until August when he would leave for California and sardine fishing operations during the fall and winter months. Port goals for 1948 included completion of the 14th Street fill, enlarging the moorage facilities at 14th Street Terminal, installation of public telephones at 14th Street, and building a shower and locker room facility for all purse seiner crew members who didn’t live in town. By 1949, because of the demand for more net sheds, it was decided that preference be given to owners of boats who lived in the immediate vicinity and moored their equipment in Everett. Tragedies at Sea Fishing was always a dangerous occupation as the sea could suddenly turn on a fisherman at any given time. Unfortunately, there were accidents and losses. Two such accidents occurred to Everett families in the 1940s; they involved members of the extended Mardesich family. On September 13, 1945 the 60.5 by about 15 feet Dorothy Joan went down about 55 miles off the coast of Yaquina Bay, Oregon. Five of the six men aboard lost their lives. They were Peter J. Mardesich and John Mardesich, brothers and co-owners of the purse seiner; John Frank Bakalich, also of Everett, and two crewmen from Aberdeen. The lone survivor was Henry (Hank) Weborg, whose wife Barbara was a sister of the Mardesich brothers. Peter and John were the sons of pioneer Everett fisherman Anton “Old Tony” Mardesich. Years later, Weborg, who rarely if ever talked about the experience, consented to an oral interview by Tony and Winnie Martinis and Ellen (Martinis) Stormo about the disaster. At one point he had to stop it was so emotional. Weborg’s daughter Dorothy later transcribed the tapes. Weborg always believed the boat sank due to its conversion to a tuna boat. A huge bait tank on the deck made the lightly loaded boat top heavy. If the boat was caught in a swell it might roll over. The boat tipped on its starboard side and he heard a big kathump. His brothers-in-law Johnnie and Pete were sleeping in the pilot house but must’ve gotten out because the deck lights were on. The skiff they were holding onto NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 57 drifted away from the Dorothy Joan. Weborg was thrown from his bunk onto the engine room floor. Disoriented, he somehow got up and got out. The boat floated for awhile but he never did see Johnnie or Pete. Weborg and the other three crewmen hung onto a little boat from the top. Weborg was the engineer of the pilot house that had broken loose. Big swells capsized the purse seiner. By this time it was nearly midnight. The first rescue boat didn’t see the men hanging onto the small boat. One of the men from Aberdeen tried to swim for help. The other drifted off the skiff and also disappeared. Frankie Bakalich slipped away and Weborg saved him, but finally he went under and was gone. By daylight Weborg was spotted and rescued. Underwear given to him by his rescuers was soaked with blood when they reached Newport. Weborg, who was sick for a year afterward and had nightmares the rest of his life, died in 2002 at 91. On June 10, 1949, less than four years after the Dorothy Joan tragedy, the Sunset, sister ship of the Dorothy Joan and owned by Nick Mardesich and his sons, went down in Alaska. Lost in the accident were pioneer skipper Nick Mardesich, his oldest son Tony Mardesich, Vincent Vlastelica of Everett, and two other crewmen. Surviving the disaster were Nick’s three younger sons August, Nick Jr. and Joseph , and nephew Anton Mardesich. In a 2000 interview with Sharon Boswell of the Washington State Oral History Program August Mardesich recounted his memory of the incident. They were going into the cannery by the Aleutians. It was stormy with wind blowing and getting worse. They were anchored in a little cove with little protection so they pulled out bound for a better place and the boat rolled over. Down below the water was pouring in. The men wore life preservers, but not survival suits. Everything happened so fast there was no time to prepare. There were no life boats and the skiff was on the other side of the net. His father was hit, but they were able to drag him from the pilot house. They also dragged out his brother. The men grabbed onto to things like hatch covers that would float. Just as boats were coming to rescue them, his brother went down and drowned. August found a timber off the boat and hung onto it. The water was so cold that when he was pulled out of the sea his rescuers had to beat him to revive him. First on the scene was the Johnny B, captained by John Bacoka, formerly of Everett. The mishap was near False Pass. William Leese remembered seeing crosses marking the site on this first trip to Alaska aboard John Lucin’s Johnny L in 1951. New Technology Improves Fishing Safety The 1950s saw more innovations that made a fisherman’s job a little easier. One such invention was that of the power block. Envisioned in the 1930s it didn’t come into being until the 1950s. Mounted on the stern it was like a large pulley with an aluminum shell and hard rubber sheave. The central rotating part hauled in the heavy purse seines with their catch. The advent of the power block revolutionized fishing. Prior to this it was necessary to pull in the nets by hand. Thus, some fishermen were known for their “Popeye” forearms. Some old timers shunned the power block because having the net NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 58 overhead often dropped water on them, but most boats had one by 1960. Another such invention was the drum. The net was wrapped around the drum on the stern of the boat and far more efficient. A set took only two thirds of the time. In Alaska a block had to be used on boats 58 feet long or less. It was a way to slow down technology and keep from over fishing the waters. A drum can be used in Puget Sound waters making even fewer hands necessary. Another advancement was the use of synthetic materials. Nylon or rayon, which came dyed, made much stronger nets that needed far less repairs. This eliminated dipping them in hot tar and hanging them from the ceiling to dry. The boiler at the wharf was no longer needed. Styrofoam and plastic replaced cork for the floats. All in all the improvements saved time and work. A purse seiner crew could be decreased from nine men to five or six. The Port of Everett and the Fishing Community in the 1950s Fishing continued to be good. In 1950 the Martinis’ Dreamland and Freeland caught 100,000 sockeye in four days. The water and wind blowing in sent all the Bristol Bay fish along the beach. In May1955 men and ships that departed from Fishermen’s Dock at 14h Street were Paul Martinis, Dreamland; Tony Martinis, Freeland; Matt Martinis, Iceland; Andy Marincovich, St. Christopher; Matt Marincovich, Wonderland; John Borovina, Emblem, and Tony Mirosevich, Western Maid. George Gregory’s Vest Pocket, a 38-foot purse seiner Bunny G. was re-powered with a General Motors Diesel. It had all the seining equipment usually carried by 55-foot “Alaska limit” seiners. The craft could go 8.5 knots and carry up to 2,500 averaged-size fish. An Everett Herald article in fall 1956 noted that seven purse seiners that had spent the summer fishing for salmon at False Pass were back at their 14th Street Dock berths. Paul Martinis Sr. had gone every year except one during the war. The others were Tony Martinis, Matt Martinis, Andy Marincovich, Matt Marincovich, Tony Mirosevich and Mike Borovina. There were constant maintenance issues at the 14th Street Dock basin. Andy Marincovich and Nick Barhanovich attended a Port meeting in 1953 concerned about the shifting of the floor in their net sheds. There was concern in 1954 when a rig collapsed under the weight of a purse seine boat, the Johnny L owned by John Lucin. Inspection indicated that the stringers were completely eaten by boring shipworms known as teredos. Later that year two untreated pilings snapped off in a storm. Once again the damage was caused by teredos. Teredo worms, often called the termites of the sea, are marine bivalve mollusks. They were a recurring problem on the Everett waterfront until pilings were treated and more boats were made of steel. The Port was quick to respond to problems and service at the net shed area. Net shed rental fees were increased over the years. In 1951 net shed rentals were raised from $185 to $250 a year. The Port furnished free moorage for one boat, free water and one light globe. If an occupant wanted more light or power, the Port would install a meter and the lessee could pay directly to the PUD. They also resurfaced the 13 th Street NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 59 extension. Port offices were moved to the area in 1952. In December 1953 Joe Burrows appeared in behalf of the Everett members of Puget Sound Gill Netters Association to express thanks to the Port for two blue stone tanks which had been turned over to the fishermen and also for the flood lights erected in the parking lot. In 1954 the Port authorized blacktop on Fishermen’s Dock. The same year major repairs were done to stop the slipping of the bulkhead under the west end of the net shed building. The net shed insurable value in 1954 was $105,549.69. In 1955 improvements were made to the watchman’s shack, toilet, tool warehouse, Fishermen’s Wharf, Morris Wharf which was immediately adjacent on 14th Street Dock, and the floats and mooring piles. The Port also planned to redesign and expand he moorage area, and find a place for a boat house. By 1956 the Port had replaced all of the gillnet moorage facility and had a dock called a line extending 700 feet with 21 finger docks. It was booked for its full capacity of 44 gillnet boats. The Port also expanded the small boat moorage area and added a new float. There was also a proposal to accommodate the trollers. More renovation of 14th Street was accomplished in 1957. The following year Shaffer Construction built new rest rooms and completed a repair job on the step bulkhead holding the fill beneath the net sheds. Port workers placed decking over the reconstructed bulkhead. Additional moorage slips were installed. Improvements continued in the prosperous 1960s. In 1960 a waterline for washing out boats and two drinking fountains were installed at Fishermen’s Dock, which was just west of the net sheds. The pavement improvements on 13th Street had one unexpected outcome. In October 1961 Everett Chief of Police G.H. Nelson read a letter informing the Port Commission that the City was making an ordinance prohibiting speed racing on public or private property. The City asked the Commissioners to post the stretch of 13 th Street between Norton Avenue (now West Marine View Drive) to H.O. Seiffert in order to stop the drag races which had been held there. Young men had found the two-lane quarter mile stretch perfect for testing their powerful bored-out V-8 engines with fourbarrel carburetors. The Manager informed the Commissioners that a sign was being placed in the area stating that the road was closed at 6p.m. The Commission directed the Manager to put 20 mile per hour speed limit signs on 13 th Street and to have watchmen police the area. Early in the 1960s the Port was looking at additional moorage for purse seiners. Thirty boats in 16 stalls could be accommodated, but it was desirable to have one stall for each boat. Work continued on the bulkheads at 14th Street Dock. By the end of 1963 the Port was ready to undertake it biggest project in history at the 14Street Moorage Basin. It would increase capacity from 550 to 1,040 boats. Also in the works was transferring all remaining Pier 1 moorage to 14th Street. In 1965 the Port decided to phase out the old Everett Yacht Club basin with all of the boats going to 14Street. There was also talk about building a new Everett Yacht Club building at 14th Street. The new moorage in the early part of 1965 was generating more than $91,000 a year at the 14th Street Basin, now called Everett Yacht Basin, and was nearly 100 percent occupied. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 60 Commercial Fishing Prospers in the 1960s The commercial fishing industry was healthy. In June 1967 it was noted that the forest of masts that marked the favorite docking place for Everett’s fishing fleet was gone. The purse seiners tied up on both sides of Fishermen’s Dock were now spread from Puget Sound to Alaska, the tall-masted trollers were out on the Pacific, and the gill netters moved in out with the hours of darkness. The dock was a constantly changing scene. Paul Martinis Sr. hadn’t gone to Alaska since 1960 but most of the other regulars did. By 1969 only Paul Martinis Jr. in the Dreamland was headed to Alaska’s Aleutian chain. It was the first year Andy Marincovich didn’t go to Alaska. Fishing was slowing down with fewer bound for Alaska The 1970s saw more improvements in the Fishermen’s Dock area. A new hoist was constructed in the gill net area and American Pile Driving Company built a new gillnet dock. There were 26 new berths for the 85 boats there. The Port installed a new waterline and electrical system that included metered power for each berth. The gill net sheds were set up in the Morris boat building, which later became known as the Mall Building. About half way down the building in the raised portion is where they were located. They were two feet by four feet areas surrounded with chicken wire and locks. They didn’t need the space the purse seiners needed. Later they were moved into the purse seiners net shed building. By this time there were about 40 slots and 15 purse seiners. The Port spelled out the uses of the net sheds. The purpose of net shed was to keep maintain and warehouse fishing gear, webbing, netting and equipment used in pursuit of a commercial fisherman‘s occupation. There was to be no smoking, no gasoline, no cars, no testing of motors, no solvents, no paint thinners, no glass jugs, no blow torch use, no fuses over 20 amperes, no junk like paint cans or rags, no storage of anything flammable, and no parking or storing of equipment on the apron in front. Lessees were to keep the area clean, and clean up shavings daily. Drums of oil for soaking wire must be covered. Spilled oil and paint must be cleaned up promptly. The Port could go into the sheds for regular fire department checks. A stall occupant had to have a commercial fishing boat moored at the Port. Everything in the local commercial fishing industry changed with a bolt from the blue in February 1974 with United States vs. Washington, 384 F. Supp. 312 (W.D. Wash. 1974), better known as the Boldt Decision for the United States District Court Judge George Boldt who heard the case. The decision was the final chapter in the definition of tribe and other citizens’ fishing rights. The federal government sued the state of Washington to honor the treaties. Judge Boldt ruled that that the tribes of the country and the state, under treaty rights that dated to the 1850s, had the right to harvest 50 percent of the fish, and that non-treaty fishermen could take the same amount. The federal government sued the state to honor the treaties. While members of the tribes felt what rightfully theirs was finally returned to them, non-native fishermen saw it as unfair and a give away to the Native Americans. At any rate, it caused a rather small local Native NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 61 American commercial fishing industry to grow and threatened the existing industry to its very foundations. Fishing was never the same after the Boldt Decision. There hadn’t been much competition from the Native Americans here or in Alaska before the decision. After this the tribal fishermen played a significant role in the commercial fishing industry. Women in Fishing By the 1970s women were playing a larger role in the fishing industry. In the early days fishing was entirely a man’s domain. Eventually, there were exceptions, like Louise Moskovita who shared crab fishing responsibilities on the boat with her husband Jack. Occasionally, a wife might accompany her husband to Alaska on his gillnetter and then fly home. Ruth Larsen often went fishing with her husband Harold. Chris Oldfield fished alongside her husband Brad on their fishing boat for all of the time they had it. Paul V. Martinis had three daughters who fished with him. August Mardesich’s daughters often fished with him. For a few seasons Mary (Barhanovich) Sievers, daughter of Nick Barhanovich, was a crew member on his purse seiner. The Beginning of the End By the mid 1980s the fishing industry was in decline. Matt Marincovich once commented that every year the boats got more complicated and every year the fish got scarcer. The downward spiral continued through the 1990s and the turn of the century. Everett residents owned 32 fishing vessels in 2000. Once a beehive of activity, the Fishermen’s Dock has little going on in 2008. There are still some purse seiners and gillnetters at the dock. However, the fleet is but a shadow of itself in its glory days. There are only a few boats compared to the large fleet from decades gone by. At the time of the Boldt decision, the tribes didn’t have enough commercial boats to catch all they were allowed. Today they have a sophisticated fleet and support staff. While the Boldt decision had a major impact, there are many other factors that have contributed to the demise of the local commercial fishing industry. First, of course, were the dwindling fish runs. Everything is scarcer, especially the premium salmon species. One reason was over fishing. The Department of Fisheries was not a resource manager; it was managed strictly for the fishing industries. In 2008 the salmon declines necessitated reducing the number of fishing days each season and the number of fish that can be kept. Another reason for lower runs is the deterioration of the traditional spawning grounds. Urban sprawl, clear cut logging and the use of fertilizer are among the factors that have compromised the streams and rivers to which the salmon return. The advance in fishing industry technology was a double-edged sword; the job was less taxing, but it made it easier to over fish. There were too many commercial fishing licenses and that spurred a governmental program of buying back licenses. Before NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 62 buybacks there were 1,200 purse seiners and 400 gill netters in the state. In 2006 there were 202 and 75, respectively. Another problem for the industry came from the advent of farmed salmon. Salmon raised in net pens in British Columbia, Norway and Chile sent prices in a downhill spiral. In the 1970s and 1980s troll-caught Chinook were selling for $4 to $5 a pound. By the mid 1990s the same fish sold for only $1.60 a pound. Another problem was the expense of the industry. Costs continued to rise for food, fuel and insurance. Everett lacked local processors in later years. The last of these was gone by the 1990s. Other support businesses for the fleet have moved as well. Treaties with Canada also reduced the size of the commercial catch. Still another problem is the difficulty securing reliable crews. Once, crewmen eagerly lined up for a chance to go fishing, and stood to make a lot money in a good season. Today there is little guarantee they will make enough money. What used to be a coveted job for college students is not today. Today crews are paid less as catches are uncertain. Finally the Everett Yacht Basin, the traditional home of the fishing fleet, is transitioning to a pleasure boat marina. A comeback for the Everett commercial fishing industry is clearly a long shot. However, while fishing is not as economically significant to the economy as it was in the past fishermen here continue to participate in crab and fish for bottom fish, salmon and other species. Some, like Everett fisherman Greg Elwood, are seeing a resurgence. Local gillnetters are making a modest comeback. There’s still the sheer thrill of pulling in a full net on beautiful Puget Sound or in Alaska. And there’s the good feeling of knowing you’re feeding people. Today commercial fishermen no longer have to row the skiff to set nets or haul them in by hand. They have boat computers, Global Positioning locators and other mechanical devices to make things easier. They have their cell phones to keep in touch. The net sheds were a physical sign of a strong fishing industry that had dwindled to almost nothing 2008. It wasn’t always that way. In the heyday of fishing, before the 1974 Boldt decision, the sheds were a beehive of activity with the doors open wide. Five or six men were inside working, even in the winter. The skipper was nearby at the dock working on the boat. Some used the shipyard next door, taking the boats up the ways, or marine railway. There was so much work and upkeep. There was always something to work on be it a pump, motor or net problem. The nets were hung and the entire crew worked on them. They would patch holes. It was expensive keeping a purse seiner in good working order and any work you could do yourself helped. Some of the men could do almost anything. Jim Leese was one of them with his welding and woodworking skills. George Schindler could built almost anything. By the turn of the century they weren’t the busy places they had been, but the net sheds still had the unique and colorful culture that had developed during their 50 plus years of history. Clearly the sheds were a social center - a men’s club for those who loved the sea to gather. It was where fishermen went on their days off! They would gather after the season to discuss who caught what and where. If a shed door was open NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 63 they would go in and perhaps help a fellow fisherman with a job. The men reworked their net sheds to suit their purposes. Some built lofts in them. Tony Martinis Sr. devised a screen door on his that hung from the rafters; it covered the entire doorway and promoted air circulation. Paul V. Martinis had a back door on his. That made two openings if there was a jam in the net. In the summer it provided welcome ventilation. There was a great deal of camaderie at the net sheds. If newcomers learned how to joke with the old timers, they earned their respect. Many colorful personalities hung out there. One of them was Nick Barhanovich. He could be found sitting in his easy chair in front of his shed Number 5 if no one else was around. As others showed up they’d sit around a visit about the life and times on the fishing grounds. On a daily basis you might find Nick playing pinochle with George Schindler, Babe Joncich, Dick Leese and other fishing old timers. The sheds were a man’s home away from home. Perhaps Nick might reminisce about coming here from the town of Bol on the island of Brac in Croatia. Or maybe the time in 1957 when he caught 15,000 sockeye in one set. He used the money to build his family home on Rucker Avenue. He was an expert at mending nets and often other fishermen came to him for repair work. When he was done with the nets, they looked brand new. When it was announced in 2007 that the net sheds were to be demolished, it was a sad time for the fishermen. Jim Leese was sorry to hear that the net sheds would be removed. He and his brother had had net sheds. Ross Utley had to get a trailer to move everything out of his. Before the sheds were torn down they were full of artifacts. Some had make shift “net shed sales.” There was a lot of nostalgia during the sales of artifacts such as corks made of cedar. Jim Leese said that of his three generations worth of treasures some went to his garage, some went on a free pile and some went to his sale. The items that sold the fastest were three sets of skiff oars he had used as a kid. Before the net sheds were razed fisherman Jerry Solie noted the irony of the sign posted “no fishing.” It was a last sad irony. Demolition began the week of March 31 2008 on the net sheds. The sheds are gone and Nick Barhanovich has passed away, but his son Jerry still has the “5” that once hung on the Barhanovich net shed door. It is a prized possession. Fishermen’s Tribute Statue Born The imminent razing of the net sheds was the impetus for a group to form with the goal of erecting a memorial to the fishermen who had been part of the cultural and economic development of Everett. The effort was spearheaded by Kay Zuanich and Barbara (Martinis) Piercey. They worried that in few short years there would nothing left of the once great fleet and people would forget what an impact it had had on Everett. They also felt that the history should be recorded while people who could remember it in its early days were still around. They visited the fishing memorial in Bellingham and enlisted the help of Port Commissioners, past and present, Jim Shaffer, Don Hopkins and Phil Bannan, and Port Director John Mohr. Jerry Barhanovich agreed NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 64 to join the committee as a spokesman for group doing a Power Point program to drum up interest. Margaret (Separovich) Barhanovich, Jerry’s mother, made a sizeable financial contribution to the project and they were off and running. Others who threw their support to the project were Mary (Barhanovich) Sievers, John Martinis Sr., Dr. Roland Hublou, Jim Leese Sr., Augie Mardesich, Paul Martinis, Butch Barcott, Ken Olsen, Ron Rochon, Mike Benbow and Marci Dehm. Erv and Frauna (Barcott) Hoglund offered to host a fund raiser by providing a spaghetti feed at Our Lady of Perpetual Help Parish’s Hensen Hall. The Hoglunds generously donated the meal and their labor to help the cause. In the meantime local artist Bernie Webber donated a water color of the net sheds. Titled “The Last Set,” it depicted a purse seiner setting its net in front of the net sheds. The symbolism was obvious; there were no fish there for a set and soon the sheds would also be gone. Two hundred prints were made and sold at the fundraiser. Jerry Barhanovich designed and donated a Fishermen’s Tribute Hat. They too were sold at the spaghetti dinner. The co-chairs thought that a book on fishing would be appropriate and another good source of funds. RaeJean Hasenoehrl donated her time and talent to author the book, which was published by Arcadia Press. Lloyd Weller, Cheryl Ann Healey, Katy Brekke, Julie Albright, Melissa Holzinger and Margaret Riddle helped with the book. It was released in time for Christmas 2007 and sales proceeds went to the Memorial project. The Fishermen’s Tribute, which will be a memorial to all who fished out of Everett, will be in the plaza outside the new Port office building. It is expected to be completed in late 2009. North Marina Redevelopment Area Fish Processing The fishermen and their boats were the major part of the fishing industry in the NMRA, but they weren’t the only one. Several ancillary industries existed there too. Among these were fish processing plants. Though seafood processing had an Everett history that could be traced to the early years of the 20th century, no plant operated in the NMRA until 1944. An August 26 Everett Herald article of that year noted that a 58 x 115 feet two-story building was being constructed at a bay front site that eventually would have the address 1520 Norton Avenue (later West Marine View Drive). The structure would house the Bozeman Canning Company. In less than two years the company was known as the Pictsweet Canning Company. On May 5, 1947, Steve Chase announced that he had purchased Pictsweet’s fish canning plant. Chase had lineage in the business. His grandfather of the same name had earlier operated fish processing companies in Maine, Seattle and Everett. Young Steve began the operation as the Chase Seafood Company. At some point, Nick J. Radovich and Claude Meehan joined Chase as partners. By 1957, the firm was known as the Everett Fish Company, which had been the name of Chase’s grandfather’s company. Chase was president; Radovich was vice-president, and Meehan was secretary-treasurer. Sometime in the 1960s, Chase and Radovich bought out Meehan and became 50/50 owners of the company. These were busy days in the fish business. In January 1962, the Everett Fish Company got its biggest load to date of fish brought in by one boat. The Regina from Seattle NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 65 unloaded 65,000 pounds of black cod, 25,000 pounds of red snapper, 10,000 pounds of sole and 5,000 pound of mixed cod. The 105,000 pounds of fish came from the Washington coast waters near Destruction Island. The company took a huge step forward with the addition of a new 1,300,000 pound capacity cold storage and freezing unit in early 1964. The Everett Fish Company entered into the business of air freighting frozen seafood to points around the globe. Delicacies such as salmon, crab and sole were going from Everett to places like New York, San Francisco, Copenhagen, Hong Kong, Honolulu and Zurich. In 2008 Otto Chase, Steve’s son, had recollections about working in the plant as a youngster. In those busy years he remembered the large freezing area where he was admonished not to damage the salmon’s tail because it would affect the price that could be asked for the fish. Otto didn’t work on the fillet line but his brother and sister did. Crab was still being shucked and canned but by this time very few other products were being canned. Salmon were “dressed” and certain fish were smoked or kippered. Otto recalls processing a lot of manila clams one summer. “I took the last two weeks off that summer to go hitchhiking,” he said. “While in the Phoenix, Arizona area, I went into a Safeway store. There were dozens of bags of Everett Fish company clams in the frozen fish area. That was cool.” Otto Chase estimates there were perhaps 60 to 70 employees during those peak years. In November of 1973, Steve Chase and Nick Radovich sold the Everett Fish Company to Balfour, Guthrie and Company Ltd. of San Francisco. An additional cold storage area was constructed in the mid-1970s, but the bottom was falling out of the fishing industry. Balfour, Guthrie closed the plant and it sat idle for several years until an East Coast family named Steuart tried to make in work in the 1980s. Steuart Seafoods struggled along for nearly a decade, finally disappearing around 1992. Olympic Seafoods made a run and then also folded. Around 1996, the first non-fish processing enterprise, Scuttlebutt Brewing Company, took over the ground floor of the original facility, but not the cold storage buildings. In 2008, Scuttlebutt Brewing is still there. Sheerer Canning Company Another was the Sheerer Canning Company. This seafood processor had a brief stay in the NMRA. The company utilized an old wooden ferry boat, the Rosario, which was moored at 14th Street Dock from the summer of 1954 until late fall that same year. The vessel, once known for its Everett to Whidbey Island run, housed a cannery and warehouse on the main level and storage and crew facilities on the upper deck. In August of 1954, a work force of 20 was canning about 400 cases of salmon a day. Eugene Sheerer and his son Robert operated the family-owned firm. The plan was to begin canning shellfish after December 1954, but by that time the Rosario had a new location. The 156 foot by 40 foot craft was taken up the Snohomish River and placed on dry land at 3862 Railroad Avenue. City Directories show the cannery at that address through 1966. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 66 Significant People Anton Mardesich Anton Mardesich is considered the father of the Everett commercial fishing industry. Born February 22, 1879, Old Tony left his hometown of Komiza on the Dalmatian Coast at the age of 17. He arrived in this country at Ellis Island and then rode the rails across the country to Puget Sound. Arriving in Everett in 1898, he was the first of the many Slavs who settled here and became involved in fishing. Tony spent much time on the waterfront working in the mills, canneries and fish markets. He witnessed the salmon fishing industry progress from small boats with sails and oars in local waters to diesel powered boats, including 75-foot vessels that went to Alaska. His purse seiner, the Tatoosh, renamed the Dorothy Joan by his sons, for years was one that made the annual trek to Alaska. He was a member of Everett Elks Lodge and of the Jugoslav-American Citizens’ Club of Everett. He and his wife Jelica, or Helen (Marincovich) had four daughters and two sons, Winnie (Mrs. Tony Martinis), Barbara (Mrs. Henry Weborg), Dorothy (Mrs. Don Dawson), Helen (Mrs. Warren Phillips), John and Pete. After Jelica died, Tony married Lillian. Tony died March 14, 1941. His funeral was at Immaculate Conception Church. He was only 62 when he died but was spared knowing that both of his sons would perish with the Dorothy Joan a little more than four years later. Paul A. Martinis Sr. Paul A. Martinis Sr. was born December 26, 1893 in Komiza, Yugoslavia. He arrived in Everett in 1921 and went on to become the patriarch of the Martinis fishing family of Everett, and arguably the patriarch of the entire Everett purse seiner fleet. Before reporting to several years of military service in the Austro-Hungarian army he decided to leave for the United State in 1913. He took with him a few dollars and great fishing knowledge gained by his father since early childhood. He came to the West Coast, landing in Astoria, Oregon before moving on to Tacoma. He went on the fish near Anacortes and eventually built his dream boat the Northland. On the Northland he took over the role of captain for the first time and sailed to the Bering Sea. It was a risky venture but he succeeded in opening the way for others to fish in Alaska. Eventually his younger brothers Vince, Tony and Matt joined him and for years they were known as the “highliners” of the Everett purse seiner fleet. The Martinis team was highly competitive. You didn’t dare cork them. Paul was successful because he understood the tides and currents and how the salmon traveled in different areas. He understood fish - some said he could even think like a fish. They used to say the fish would not come into to Puget Sound until Paul Martinis go back from Alaska. The veteran leader was the acknowledged “King” of the fishing community here. On May 5, 1956, Paul Martinis, aka “Kingfish,” was honored by the Everett Elks at the club’s annual Fishermen’s Night celebration. Fishermen came from as far away as Bellingham and Tacoma to honor Martinis. A telegraph was sent from President Dwight Eisenhower and letters came from Senator Henry Jackson, Congressman Jack Westland, Governor Arthur NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 67 Langlie and several other dignitaries. Steve Chase was chairman of the committee in charge of the fete and Harold Walsh made the presentation - a chronometer set. Of course, the fare was salmon barbecue. The President’ message read, “In many aspects your life has been truly a typical American story,” while the governor stated, “As one of the Pacific Coast’s most successful salmon fishermen during the past 40 years, you have not only brought distinction to your family, but prosperity to all the citizens of Everett who have been associated with you.” The day was set aside by the city commissioners as Paul Martinis Day. He was a life member of the Everett Elks and Knights of Columbus, a board member of Fishermen’s Packing Corporation, and a member of the board of the Bank of Everett. He and his wife Pearl had six children, Winifred Riecken, Paul Jr., Andrew, Vince, John, and Katie Inman. Paul Martinis Sr. died August 24, 1974 and his Mass of Christian Burial was held at Our Lady of Perpetual Help Church. As was the custom, his son Paul took over the family business and continued to be a successful fisherman. Andrew became a heart surgeon. John ran a sporting goods store before becoming a Washington state legislator. August P. “Augie” Mardesich was born February 11, 1920 to Nicola “Nick” and Mary (Felando) Mardesich in San Pedro, California. The family settled in Everett in 1928. Augie had one older brother, Tony, and two younger brothers, Nick Jr. and Joseph. Augie and his brothers attended schools in Everett and fished in Alaska with their father in the summers. After high school Augie attended Seattle University, but his education was interrupted by World War II. He served in the Navy during the war and returned home to graduate from the University of Washington with a law degree. His older brotherTony was elected to the Washington state legislature in 1949. That summer all of the brothers went fishing in Alaska with their father. A sudden storm caused their purse seiner to capsize. Nick, Tony and three others perished in the mishap. Augie and his younger brothers survived. Augie was appointed to fill his brother’s seat in the Washington Legislature in 1950 beginning a 28-year career in the House and later the Senate. He served as majority leader in both houses and some considered him the most powerful man in state politics. Augie credited much of his ability to work in Olympia to his experiences fishing. Part of the fishing experience made him understand the big picture perhaps. Close to encounters and chance survivals he presented the enduring characteristic of a man who could manage himself. In 2008 Augie is retired. He and his wife Rosemary reside in Mill Creek. They have six children, Tony, Megan, Monica, Meran, John and Catherine. Influence of North Marina Redevelopment Area Commercial Fishing Industry on the Development of Everett Everett profited from the fleet. Fishing was an important part of the economy. Besides the fishermen, there were the crew members, fish processing plants, the businesses that sold and serviced the vessels, those that outfitted the fishermen and boats, the repair shops and the fuel companies. Each boat represented a large cash outlay to the city in repair work and supplies. The boats were stored on the ways here during the NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 68 winter and most of the materials for the repairs was purchased here. The supplies were secured in Everett as the boats were laden down with meats and groceries immediately prior to departure. It was an industry that depended on ancillary support industries and reached out into the community. Often these companies, too, were located in the North Marina Area. Entire families were involved in the support industries that accompany the fleet. Businesses like Wold Hardware furnished material for the boats. Grocers like Ransics Store and 25th Street Market stocked food for the trips. Butchers like Hausmann’s provided meat. Everything for the fishing was purchased here in Everett. Had there not been a commercial fleet in Everett there might not have been funds to dredge the fishing channels. It is safe to say that improvements took place in the North Marina Area because of the presence of the Everett fishing fleet. Since it involved so many fewer people, the commercial fishing industry didn’t impact the city the way the lumber and shingle mills did. Fishing did, however, leave its mark on Everett. Like the lumber and shingle industry, fishing was an extractive industry. The work certainly required skills, but they could be learned on the job without any college education. One might think that college would not have seemed important to the fishing families, but nothing could be farther from the truth. The first generation fishing families had but a rudimentary education, perhaps not a high school degree. Their English was broken. The second generation was expected to learn English, the language of the new land. The first generation saw education as the answer for an easier, perhaps more successful life, for their children. Many insisted their children go to college. This was an even higher priority for the third generation. Everett Herald reporter Mike Benbow wrote several articles on the declining fishing industry and came away amazed at the Croatian culture and its effect on the city. While the oldest son might be expected to carry on the fishing business, younger sons were expected to graduate from college perhaps to be doctors or other professionals. Daughters likely would graduate with education degrees and become teachers. This immigrant population cared about education and sent their children to college at a time when others weren’t. Jerry Barhanovich, second generation, said his father expected him and his brother and sister to get college degrees. The Slavic fishing people exemplified Everett‘s culture. They were a hard working people, who like the city in general, didn’t put on airs or dress fancy. Like the city they were not pretentious. They continue to have a big effect on this city to this day. Their community is still here and involved. The fishing may no longer be the driving force in their lives, but they’re the same kinds of folks. Although they have assimilated themselves into the American melting pot, a part of the old culture lives on. The Croatians and Norwegians who built Everett’s fleet were large contributors to the city’s ethnic culture, its church community and its leadership core. Many of their descendents are today’s bankers, doctors, lawmakers and teachers. Being a tight-knit proud people, they didn’t complain as the fishing industry waned, but continued to work hard, perhaps fishing in untried waters. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 69 They helped each other out - a culture that took care of their own asking for help from outsiders. They were mutually supportive and dependent. When they first came here they worked hard and sponsored another family member’s arrival and another and another. Also, they were simply very hard-working, hard-partying, “appreciate the value of the dollar” kind of people. Families were traditional, where the wife usually did not work, but ran the household. There were no women on the boats on the fishing grounds. The men were physically strong, and a traditional stereotype of masculinity. The Slavs had a great impact on the local Catholic Churches. Serious Catholics, they donated generously to both of the parishes. If you check the plaque in the Immaculate Conception Church building, you’ll find that many of Slavs contributed to the new building erected in 1967. Many of the fishermen belonged to the Everett Elks Lodge. There were also many in the Everett Golf and Country Club. They also went into leadership positions. While early fishermen were not on bank boards like early mill owners were, the situation had changed by the time the Bank of Everett was chartered in 1962. Mill owners weren’t on the board, but Paul Martinis was on the founding board. Other board members were Joe Lucin and Steve Chase. Augie Mardesich, who went to college at his dad’s insistence, rose to Senator Majority Leader in the Washington State Senate and was one of the most powerful people in the state government. His two younger brothers became doctors. John Martinis ran a sports fishing shop and spent 30 years in the Washington State Legislature. He served five years on the Pacific State Marine Fisheries Council. The fishing industry also provided countless summer jobs for the youth in Everett. Many attributed their fishing experience as something that created a strong foundation for their future. Ron Rochon, in 2008 an architect, fished on Frank Barcott’s boat the Lemes and on the Point Defiance with Butch Barcott. He felt there was an easier life and that he should go to school. His grandfather encouraged him to do so. Retired commercial airline pilot Erv Hoglund fished on the Lemes too. He did in college and while working on his masters degree at Seattle University. Erv marveled at his father-in-law Frank Barcott Sr. when he was fishing. Frank was a mellow personality but when he was fishing, his concentration and dedication couldn’t be broken. Frank knew he had to make money to support his family, but also he had to make money for his crew. Erv recalled in 2008 that Frank often said that it was the farmers and fishermen who put food on the table. Erv fished with Butch Barcott too. All in all Erv said fishing was a positive experience. It could be fun even when they didn’t make money. Everett Mayor Ray Stephanson went fishing the first time at age 13 helping Jack Metcalf (later a U.S. Representative from the Second Congressional District). He went on the work summers on Dick Leese’s purse seiner Solta for three years. In 2008 Ray said, “Fishing taught me how to work and work hard.” He worked long days with little sleep. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 70 He said they’d match wits, skills and knowledge with every other boat out there. The close quarters made the crew watch out for each other. The crew jobs provided jobs for young men who weren’t necessarily from fishing backgrounds. Tom Hoban, a successful Everett businessman in 2008, credits his college education and his first job to his commercial fishing experience. The summer of 1982 Tom wandered the fishing dock and basically talked his way onto Tony Martinis’ purse seiner Barbara Jean. He was attending Notre Dame University, which was expensive. His younger siblings were also starting college soon, so he hoped to make enough fishing to pay for his education. Without that season, he may not have been able to cover the next year’s room and board. Tom fished the following summer as well. He was late to college one fall from a big catch of pink salmon in the San Juans, and still smelling of fish and diesel. When questioned about his arriving late to school, Tom talked hard explaining to school administrators that fishing was a job where the fish decided when you worked. The Notre Dame administration allowed him to continue his education; Tom figured the money from the late catch paid the tuition. After graduation Tom applied for a job with a major Seattle bank. During the interview it was noted that he hadn’t had much business experience. Tom countered that he had learned enough working his half-share on the purse seiner to pay for the education he figured would be a ticket to a better life. In 2008 Tom Hoban runs Coast Real Estate Services with his brother Shawn in downtown Everett. Looking back he reflects, “I’m in business now and sometimes things can get a little heated in the business world. But I’ve never experienced anything like the excitement when the fish are running.” Young men indeed learned much about life while fishing. On purse seiners they found how to be part of a crew, or team and have communal respect. They had to be responsible for their part of the work, despite the different personalities involved. They gained respect for the elements and learned how to take risks in less dangerous situations. If something broke they had to fix it. Most will tell you they grew up fast while fishing and returned with a feeling of self sufficiency. They also came home with some lifelong friends, other members of the crew. Some families couldn’t separate themselves from fishing; it was part of them. Today Frank Barcott’s tombstone at Everett’s Evergreen Cemetery has a purse seiner etched into it. Nearby, his brother Joe’s marker similarly has a gillnetter carved in stone. This exemplifies the pride that went with the fishing industry. The Barcotts’ brothers were also in the commercial fishing industry and their sisters married fishermen. No doubt there is a glamour or romance that accompanies fishing. Everett Herald reporter Mike Benbow said during his many interviews that the fishing families were proud of their heritage and their eyes would always light up when they talked about fishing. It may have been hard work from the boat, but it looked like a real adventure from the shore. The independent freewheeling, afraid-of-nothing sort of guys had a persona akin to that of a cowboy. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 71 Perhaps Paul Piercey, a descendent of the Norwegian and Croatian fishing cultures of Everett, summed it up best when in 1966 he wrote, “With the challenges I have faced and overcome in fishing I can see why my ancestors would be able to face the challenge of leaving their homeland for a better life. That’s basically what fishing is; we leave home to face the uncertain and deal whatever comes up, in our effort to provide a better life….It is the adrenaline; intoxicating, addicting, adrenaline that keeps us coming back.” Fishing is his metaphor for life. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 72 BOAT BUILDING Fishermen’s Boat Shop Fishermen’s Boat Shop first appears in the Everett City Directory of 1944. It is located on Tract M, foot of Bond Street and is listed as a boat builder and a facility for boat repair. Carl S. Anderson and Matt Jokinen are shown as the proprietors. By April of 1947, Fishermen’s Boat Shop had notified the Port of Everett about the need for enlarged quarters. The firm requested first consideration for space and facilities being proposed at 14th Street, which was a better strategic location. The commercial fishing fleet was now moored in the 14th Street basin and in the years to come, the pleasure boats would move there, as well. By September 1947, a new boat shop for Carl Anderson was under construction at the 14th Street site near the waterfront. Within a few months, Fishermen’s Boat Shop was in its new quarters which included the new building plus the carpenter shop that had been moved from the Bond Street site. Carl S. Anderson was now listed as the sole operator of the firm. In the new site, Anderson’s major emphasis was repair work but he also built both pleasure craft and fishing vessels. The latter were built for local commercial fishing families. Two of the small purse seiners were the Melvin II and the Dawn. By November 1951, Anderson was doing business as both Fishermen’s Boat Shop and Anderson Boat Building Company. In October, 1959 Dick Eitel bought Fishermen’s Boat Shop from Carl Anderson. It had been basically a repair facility for wooden boats, but that changed in the 1960s, as Eitel got into steel work, as well. One of the first steel vessels of any size was a 45-foot tug for Everett’s American Tow Boat Company in 1964. There was still a great deal of maintenance and repair work on fishing boats, tug boats and pleasure craft. Alaska set a 58-foot length limit on purse seiners, which meant that many of the boats had to be shortened to meet the requirement. Fishermen’s Boat Shop was involved in many of these alterations, which consisted of changes to the bow, stern and rudder. Over the years the shop was altered and enlarged as the business expanded. Increasingly, Fishermen’s Boat Shop began to take on larger and more complicated work. They successfully bid on government contracts with such agencies as the U.S. Coast Guard, U.S. Navy, University of Washington and the Washington State Department of Transportation. A $240,000 contract in January 1976 to build sewage holding systems for two state ferries and an April 1978 contract to construct a $226,000 floating breakwater for the University of Washington’s Friday Harbor research laboratory were lead-ups to even bigger projects. Later there would be multi-million dollar contracts such as those for the renovation of Washington State Ferries, construction of floating bridge segments, the building of barges and the assembly of a dry dock gate for use at the Bremerton Naval Shipyard. These larger projects required a great deal more space than that available at the original boat shop site; Fishermen’s Boat Shop was leasing space at several different Port of Everett locations. At times there were up to 120 employees working on various projects. Reflective of this NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 73 changing role, the company name was change to Everett Shipyard, Inc. about 2001. Along the way, there have been some fascinating projects. One of the most challenging was the construction and delivery of a 120-foot ferry for the Bureau of Indian Affairs in 1981. Named the Columbian Princess, the car ferry would be used on the Colville Indian Reservation. It would run on Lake Roosevelt between Inchelium and Gifford. In a 2008 interview Dick Eitel still had vivid memories of the Columbia Princess saga. “What a story,” he recalled. “We got it built, then had to run it out the straits, down the coast, up the Columbia and then the Snake River. The last stage was getting it across the wheat fields to the lake. I understand it’s still operating,” he continued. “It’s the largest vessel we ever built at the shop.” For nearly a half century, the Eitels, Dick and then his son Nick, operated the company. In March, 2008, an era ended when the family-owned firm was sold to Todd Shipyard, Inc. who plans to continue work under a subsidiary named Everett Ship Repair and Drydock, Inc. Everett Engineering, Inc. In the late 1960s, Dick Eitel, president of Fishermen’s boat shop, faced a problem. Both of the machine shops that offered critical support to this business had closed. “I knew something had to be done,” Eitel recalled in a 2008 interview. “I contacted Dan Martin and asked him if he would join with me in starting a new machine shop.” Martin, in 2008, still remembers his response. “I told him I couldn’t build a fire because I couldn’t afford the matches. But Dick came up with the $10,000. I left Noble engineering to partner with him.” The pair built a 40 by 60-foot building at 1420 Norton Avenue adjacent to Fishermen’s Boat Shop. The new firm, called Everett Engineering, Inc., opened in the fall of 1968. Martin was president; Eitel, vice president, and Dale White, secretary-treasurer. The company, offering a variety of machine shop services, became indispensable not only to Fishermen’s Boat shop, but other firms and individuals as well. They designed and built winches, propeller shafts, gear boxes and countless other products. Within two years Martin and Eitel had enlarged the original building by another 1,600 square feet. To accommodate an ever increasing business, they added a second building in the early 1980s and then another which they moved to the site from the Western Gear complex when that company closed. By the 1990s, approximately 35 employees worked in facilities that covered close to 17,000 square feet. In June 2007, Everett Engineering, Inc. moved to 26 East Marine View Drive, the former Weyerhaeuser Kraft Mill site on the Snohomish River. In 2008, they continue as a full service custom design machining a fabrication facility. Martin and Eitel are still the owners. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 74 The Morris Brothers and Morris Boats J. Paul and Walter Morris were the only sons of John O. and Almeda Morris. John was the vice president of Everett Packing Company, a cannery near Pier 1 on the Everett waterfront. Because of their father’s work, the brothers spent a good deal of time on the water as boys . Early on, both had a fascination for the sea and for boats. Both were dreamers and as children, they designed model boats. Paul graduated from Everett High School in 1924, and Walt in 1929. As young men they continued making model boats. Eventually both married. Paul and Faith (Kellogg) had three daughters, Sidne, Gretchen and Julie while Walt and Barbara (Shangle) had two sons, Kelley and Jack. The brothers’ dream to one day build boats came true in 1947 when they opened a boat building plant in Bellingham under the name Morris, Inc. They were building boats for a company named Norseman. After about a year, they decided to move to Everett. On January 5, 1948, the Port of Everett commissioners approved the transfer of the lease of the Scholl’s 14th Street Marina building to the Morris brothers. They also received permission to use a portion of the 14th Street Dock for their operation. Morris, Inc. then relocated the boat building plant from Bellingham to Everett. They actually disassembled the buildings in Bellingham and moved them to 14 th Street Dock where they reassembled them for their boat building enterprise. (In 2008 this is called the Mall Building.) After the move they were building small wooden pleasure craft under the Morris name. They were all-plywood boats with those 18 to 21 feet long being the most popular. The brothers had a good working relationship; Paul conceived the designs and Walt directed construction. By all standards their boats were of the highest quality. In time fiberglass was coming into use, so they began to apply some fiberglass to their designs. At some point in the mid-1950s, Morris began building pleasure boats for Jerry Bryant, who had Bryant’s Marina in Seattle. These boats, while manufactured in Everett, carried the Bryant label. Over the years, Morris produced several different models, which were then transported to Bryant’s for marketing. They were designed for outboard motor use and the 12 to 16-foot “Runabouts” were especially popular. Fast and sleek, they helped popularize small boating in Puget Sound and other areas. The Morris brothers had a very good relationship with Bryant. All five children have fond memories growing up down on the dock. In 2008 Kelley reflected that they had all first water skied on salt water. In the early 1950s, the ban on power boats for commercial fishing in Alaska’s Bristol Bay was lifted. Power boats would be allowed but they could not be over 32 feet in length. Bryant was one of the companies that began building the 32-foot gillnetters but soon the demand exceeded their manufacturing capabilities. Bryant contracted with Morris, Inc., who started producing the fishing craft under the Bryant name. Both brothers were capable craftsmen. Paul had a gift for design and did most of the drafting work. Walt carried out the construction and technical aspects of the work. The gillnetters were barebones and built quickly, but had the typical Morris quality. They were the perfect NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 75 boat for the time. Now there was an assembly line production for both the pleasure and fishing boats under the same roof. Once the boats were built, they went to the paint shop on the dock west of the factory. The gillnetters went into the water for engine installation. Both then went to Bryant. The wooden hulled gillnetters with red cedar planking were designed to operate in as little as 30 inches of water. They were rugged, fast vessels. With a 290-horse power Chrysler engine (one of several types of engines used), they could do 20 knots an hour without a load and had a comfortable cruising speed of 14 knots. A fully loaded Bryant Super Highliner, a 32-foot gillnetter model, could carry four to five thousand fish, plus nets. Most of the early gillnetters were built for Alaskan canneries, which then provided them to the fishermen. In those days, a completed vessel, ready to go, could be purchased for about $10,000. While the gillnetters were being built in the east part of the factory, pleasure craft were being constructed in the building’s west section. They were of plywood, which came mostly from the nearby Everett Plywood and Door Company. Some of it was a high quality African mahogany that gave the boats a very rich look. At peak production, a crew of about 80 men were employed. Depending on the size, they could produce about three pleasure boats a day. It took about a week to build the 32-foot Bristol Bay gillnetter. Initially, both types of craft were strictly wooden. Eventually, fiberglass came into use, primarily for cabins and decking. Kenny Kirkland was indispensable as the plant superintendent for several years before he left to work for the Port of Everett. “Bud” Hegeberg, who later started his own boat building and repair shop on the Snohomish River, was one of the workers on the gillnetter’s production. In 2008, he still had vivid memories of his days at Morris. “There was a nearby café called Jo’s,” Hegerberg reminisced recently. “If you ordered in advance they would have a rib eye steak meal ready for lunch. It cost 90 cents, which was okay because I was making about $1.70 an hour.” Hegeberg and another co-worker Gene Sharp, also had contact with the 32-foot gillnetters long after their Morris days. “The Alaska yellow cedar we used on the keels didn’t hold up very well in the cold Alaskan waters,” said Hegeberg. “In the 1980s, I repaired many of them with fir, which seemed to do better.” Sharp, who later fished in Bristol Bay, has seen many of the old gillnetters in recent years. “Most of them are done now,” said Sharp. “You see them rotting on Alaskan beaches.” A few survive, including the rebuilt Robbie, which in 2008 is used by Hegeberg’s son for crabbing. Around 1963, the era of Morris-built boats for Bryant ended. The brothers went their separate ways. Morris, Inc. now became Morris Boats, Inc., with Paul Morris as president and manager. Morris Boats, Inc. produced a variety of craft over the next few years. These included, among others, 36-foot charter boats for fishing at Westport, and NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 76 20 to 21-foot wooden hulled boats for the Air Force. Paul Morris repaired boats, as well. He wanted to get into fiberglass construction but the fire department had a problem with this in the building. The paint shop pier was deteriorating and the paint shop would have to be demolished. About 1966, J. Paul Morris needed capital for needed changes, such as new dry storage facilities. He took on partners and Morris Boats, Inc. ceased its boat building operation. A new company, Boatland U.S.A., emerged with J. Paul Morris as a stock owner but not a company officer. Boatland U.S.A. would use the same space but would not build boats. Emphasis would be on the marina function and the sales of boats, equipment and other marine supplies. Boatland U.S.A. continued in operation until about 1971. In 1966, as Morris Boats, Inc. was winding down, Paul Morris stated he had designed and produced more than 8,00 small pleasure boats and 250 commercial boats for the Alaska fishing industry. Paul went on to work for Todd Shipyard in Seattle. He then got a real estate license and finished his career in that business. He died in 1988. Walt opened a shop near the Morris Boats location and Fishermen’s Boat Shop on the corner of 14th Street and Norton Avenue (West Marine View Drive). During the war he had been an aircraft man and tool and dye maker. He was an inventor as well as a boat builder. At his shop he invented urethane foam and designed a system to spray it. He also invented two different rigs, for ships and railroad cars. He finished his career working for Laz Tool and Dye in Snohomish. Walt died in 1969, the result of pneumonia and an industrial accident. The Morris brothers left behind a legacy for quality boat building of which all five children are proud. Sidne and Kelley still have two-foot models the brothers built in their youth. Julie recently purchased a 14-foot Morris Brothers boat and all are happy to have it back in the family. Cruise-A-Home The Cruise-A-Home was a unique vessel manufactured at 1028 Norton Avenue (West Marine View Drive) for more than a decade. It had the comfort of a houseboat, the seaworthiness of a fishing boat and the speed of a cruiser. When the Cruise-A-Home was first introduced in 1968, there were those who thought it a strange looking craft with its one level houseboat super structure mounted on a deep-V hull adapted from a fishing boat design. But, even the detractors had to admit the vessel was capable of comfortable, fast cruising in virtually any conditions. Warren Jensen was founder and president of Cruise-A-Home, Inc. He developed the original drawings and then was joined by veteran boat builder Ed Reinell, who became vice president of manufacturing. The first model was a 40-footer (actually 39 feet 11 inches) with a 270 horsepower Mercruiser engine. There were all the comforts of home, with sleeping accommodations for up to seven people. The company proudly boasted that the CruiseA-Home 40 was the first cruiser hull “houseboat” to be designed and manufactured in NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 77 the Northwest for Northwest cruising. A new one that first year sold for about $15,000. In subsequent years, power was increased by adding a second engine. Later two 31-foot models were introduced. They were the Crusader 31 and the Caprice 31, which had a slightly narrower cabin. The Corsair 40, however, remained the most popular model. By 1979 Jensen was still president and the firm had built and sold more than 400 Cruise-AHomes since its inception. In a July 16, 1979 Everett Herald article, Jensen said, “We had a lot of success with our cruising houseboats because they combined a lot of living space with a powerboat hull that could take the Puget Sound waters.” Everett businessman Ed Rubatino’s family had two Cruise-A-Homes over the years. In 2008, he could reflect on good times his family and other Cruise-A-Home owners had enjoyed. “J.P. Patches (well-known Pacific Northwest TV clown) had one,” said Rubatino. “He painted the hull blue.” Rubatino also remembered the Cruise-A-Home that was custom made for Mukilteo businessmen Dick and Ed Taylor. Dick was 6’8” tall and his brother Ed was almost that height. The cabin height in their craft was increased by six inches to accommodate the brothers. In 1980, the company had a new name, Polaris Marine Corporation, and a new $8.25 million contract to build landing craft for the U.S. Navy. Company president Jensen said the firm would continue its usual lines of boats as well. However, in March of 1982, the company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy. By 1983 there was no Polaris Marine Corporation listed in the Everett City Directory and 1028 Norton Avenue was shown as vacant. The Wayward Wind It would be hard to find a NMRA project that captured public imagination more than the Wayward Wind. Jack McWilliams, a custom furniture manufacturer, spent nearly a decade building a two-masted sailing schooner on a cradle next to Fisherman’s Boat Shop. His labor of love project also became a love affair for the community. Slowly, but surely, McWilliams pieced together a craft that weighed 56.5 tons, was 65 feet long on deck, 85 feet long over-all and had a 17.5-foot beam. People kept tabs on the construction from the beginning, marveling at the exquisite craftsmanship and the boat’s beauty. The Wayward Wind even had an organ. One veteran boat builder noted that McWilliams had installed an organ in a hull and then built a boat around it. McWilliams’ dream was to take the vessel on a year long cruise around the world. Then he and his wife Ruth would live on the Wayward Wind the rest of their lives. When launching day arrived on July 11, 1972, a crowd estimated at well over a thousand braved the rain to watch the event. Workmen struggled to pull the cradle to the Fishermen’s Boat Shop ways. After two hours the effort was abandoned. The next evening, when the “skids were greased” (literally), hundreds of spectators watched the vessel slip into the water. The traditional bottle of champagne was broken on the bow and the Wayward Wind was afloat. A little more than two months later, about a hundred well wishers were at the dock to watch the schooner slip out of its berth and past Everett’s Jetty Island with an escort of pleasure craft. A month later, the McWilliams were in Long Beach, California thinking they might have to sell the boat because of Jack’s health concerns. However, in December, they were sailing off again, NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 78 although the world voyage idea had been trimmed to a three to six month cruise to the east coast of South America. They were still planning to live the rest of their lives on the Wayward Wind. Influence of North Marina Redevelopment Area Boat Building on the Development of Everett While North Marina Redevelopment Area boat building was never a dominant Everett industry, it did leave its mark on the community. Fishing is one industry that is indebted to Fishermen’s Boat Shop (later, Everett Shipyard) for the vessels and services that company has provided. The racy Bryant runabouts and other boats produced by the Morris brothers helped launch a post World War II small power boat craze. The boats were sleek, fast, fun - and best of all, affordable. A whole generation rushed in to buy them. Morris also impacted the fishing industry with the 32-foot Bristol Bay gillnetter. At least one of those vessels, the Robbie, is still in use today by an Everett fisherman. Cruise-A-Home caught the fancy of the recreational boater who wanted comfort, space, speed, and safety. And how many Everettites were inspired by the Wayward Wind? It proved that dreams could come true. Everett, in 2008, is known as a city of boat owners and boat lovers. Fishing boats and pleasure craft occupy a Port of Everett yacht basin that is the largest public marina on the West Coast. Everett is a boating capital and the North Marina Redevelopment Area firms are one reason that has happened. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 79 SPECIAL FEATURES IN THE NORTH MARINA REDEVELOPMENT AREA The Equator This historic vessel on display at the southwest corner of Craftsman Way and 10 th Street once carried famous author Robert Louis Stevenson on South Pacific voyages. The Equator was built as a two-masted schooner by renowned San Francisco boat builder Mathew Turner in 1888. In 1889 Stevenson sailed from Honolulu to the Gilbert Islands. While aboard he conceived of and began writing a novel, “The Wreckers”. The Equator received an engine in 1893 and later served as a tender to an Arctic whaling fleet. She was completely renovated in 1923 and served until the mid-1950s as a Puget Sound tug. She was left on Everett’s Jetty Island the week of August 15, 1956 as part of a breakwater with other discarded vessels. Local dentist Eldon Schalka led an effort, which finally saw the Equator rescued from its breakwater fate the week of June 26, 1967. He dreamed of once again of seeing the Equator seaworthy. Dick Eitel, one of Schalka’s comrades in salvaging the craft, stored the boat at his 14th Street Fishermen’s Boat Shop for several years. The two were centrally involved in the Equator Foundation that was created to restore the 87-foot vessel. They were encouraged when the Equator was placed on the National Register of Historic Places on April 14, 1972. It was the first Everett property to receive this designation. There were starts, stalls, promises and hope - but the funds necessary for a full restoration were not acquired. The boat, essentially just a hull, was moved to a location in the new Marina Village in 1980 and then later placed in its 2008 location near the 10th Street Boat Launch. The Equator rests under a protective structure provided by Dick Eitel. There is the National Register plaque, an interpretive sign that tells the craft’s history, and another sign listing the 42 individuals and firms who have contributed materials and service to the Equator Foundation. Weyerhaeuser Office Building The ornate red-roofed structure on the northwest corner of 18th Street and West Marine View Drive is one of the few reminders that the Weyerhaeuser Company was, for many years, Everett’s largest employer. Ironically, none of the company’s Everett mills was in the NMRA, nor was the office building originally. The structure was erected in 1923 at Everett’s first Weyerhaeuser plant, which was on the bay front about a mile and a half south of the office building’s current location. It was designed in Gothic style by noted Northwest architect Carl Gould to showcase the use of local woods, particularly fir and hemlock. In 1938, after the original plant was converted from a sawmill to a pulp mill, the office building was barged from its first site up to Mill B, Weyerhaeuser’s enormous sawmill on the Snohomish River. It served as Weyerhaeuser office space even after the mill closed in 1979. Finally, in 1983, it was abandoned and donated by Weyerhaeuser to the Port of Everett. In 1984, the building made its second voyage, this time down the river channel and across the protected yacht basin to its NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 80 current site, where it would become the headquarters for the Everett Area Chamber of Commerce. Chamber member Jack Walkley of Cobra Construction spearheaded the allvolunteer move. As it had the first time - the effort captivated public interest. People marveled at the logistics of transporting a 6,000 square-foot, story and a half cargo that weighed 350 tons. Once the building was placed on its new foundation, the Chamber could move in. Through the efforts of people like county preservation planner Brent Lambert, the Weyerhaeuser Office Building was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1986. Though the structure is vacant in 2008, its beauty is evident to those who travel West Marine View Drive. Charles Jordan Marine Park In 1970, Richard Haag, an internationally known landscape architect, completed the design for a Marina Park at the 14th Street marina. Located on the south side of 13th Street near the west end of the 14th Street fill, the park was to be a haven for nonboaters. On November 10, 1970 the Port Commission awarded the construction contract to Sanford Wright with a total project cost of $59,995.50. The commissioners accepted the project as complete on May 11, 1971. The park was square in shape with approximately 300 feet on each side. A concrete stairway ascended a 20-foot high main mound on the south side that provided a view in all directions. There were smaller berms on the other three sides. Seating was built around planters. Poplars, magnolias and rhododendrons were planted around the perimeter. Interestingly, the 48 th Parallel of Latitude passes through the site. The space was dedicated Charles Jordan Marine Park during the Salty Sea Days celebration of 1971. Jordan, a beloved citizen activist, had served as the Port of Everett’s attorney for 25 years. When Jordan died in 1983, former Port commissioner Paul Kinnune remembered Jordan’s dedication to the port. “He wanted to see the port prosper,” stated Kinnune. Hailed as a grassy respite in the middle of industrial area by some, the park was dubbed “Mt. Montezuma” or the “Missile Silo” by others. In 2008 all that remains of Jordan Park is the aggregate sidewalk entrance on its east side and a lone magnolia tree. It is part of the area being transformed into the Port Gardner Wharf. Surf II The distinctive steel sculpture, located just south of the 10 th Street Boat Launch docks, was Everett’s first piece of public art when it was formally dedicated on July 8, 1976. However, it was not at its 2008 location. Initially, Surf II was on the east side of Colby Avenue close to California Street in downtown Everett. It was part of a plan to rejuvenate and beautify the downtown area, particularly Colby Avenue. The sculpture was designed by Stanley Wanlass of Astoria, Oregon, who was selected for the commission from about 40 artists. Standing 14 feet at its highest point, the steel piece features nine fingers that jut upward to create an abstract shape. Sculptor Wanlass said the design was inspired by his love for water and trees. The sculpture weighs 40,000 pounds and cost $18,900. At the Colby site, it sat in a small pond surrounded by a mini NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 81 amphitheater. Surf II was controversial in its early days. Some defended it as a downtown focal point that would help Everett strengthen its identity. Other dubbed it “Big Foot” or “Whale’s Tail” and scoffed at it as a waste of money. One disgruntled group even hung the mayor in effigy on the sculpture. Around 1983 Surf II was moved to its NMRA site, where its abstract wave shape seems more compatible with the marine environment. Fires and Fire Fighting The NMRA has had no major fires for more than four decades. In the earlier years, however, there were truly spectacular blazes. Fires at Jamsion Lumber and Shingle Company in 1928, Clough-Hartley Shingle Mill in 1937, Pilchuck Shingle and Jamison, again, in 1967 were among the most damaging. Perhaps the most memorable of all was the August 2, 1956 fire that destroyed about $500,000 worth of buildings and lumber at the William Hulbert Mill Company site. A tremendously hot blaze, it buckled railway tracks and completely consumed the neighboring Jamison Mill office in five minutes. Firefighters fought the fire for four hours and they also had to protect adjacent businesses and homes on Grand Avenue. Two Everett firemen, a Lowell volunteer and two mill employees were injured. Old timers still shake their heads when they talk about that conflagration . Over the years there have been two fire stations in the North Marina Area. The first, built in 1927, was at about 1701 Norton Avenue (now West Marine View Drive). It was built from materials donated by the mills and sat on pilings, as did Norton Avenue at the time. That station was replaced in 1970 by a new one at 920 13th Street. The old building lives on in 2008 as a private residence on Vashon Island. The new one was in operation until recently. In 2008, there is no fire station in the North Marina Area. For a number of years the firefighters also had a museum at 1002 13th Street in an old paint shop across the street from the fire station. The museum came into being after the Port commissioners, on November 14, 1972, approved the Everett Fire Fighters Local Union 350 request to use the building as a lookin museum. The annual rent was set $25.00. The museum became a repository for fire firefighting equipment and historical records and also served as a center for many fund raising and social events. The building, as well as the second fire station, has gone down as part of the preparation for Port Gardner Wharf and the and the fire fighting paraphernalia has been moved to other locations. The Stairs The wooden stairs that ran from the bluff top to the bay front were not technically in the NMRA but they merit mention because of their importance to the Area. There seems to be no written record as to when the stairs were built, but there is little question their main function was give bay front industries’ employees a way to get to and from work. Frank Platt, whose family once had a small grocery store at 1202 Grand Avenue, recalled in 2008 the ones that led from 12th Street just off Grand down to the water. “I think they were used mainly by Hulbert workers,” he said. “I know the steps NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 82 were there by 1920, probably a lot earlier. When you got to the bottom, you crossed over to the mill on a big cedar log that floated in the water. We kids played around the mills and stairs all the time.” There were other sets of stairs at 14th 19th and 21st streets just west of Grand Avenue. In addition, there were paths, like an early one at 10 th Street, that led down to the water. The stairs at 14th and 19th each had over a hundred steps. In the 1999 booklet Collected Memories: Recollections of Alvin B. Pettersen, there is a short 1966 article by Pettersen and an old photo with people sitting on one of the sets of stairs. Pettersen remembered the 19th Street set as being the longest, with more than a hundred steps. Myrtle Lowthian recalled that as a girl she used to go down and back up 101 steps taking lunch to her mill executive father but she didn’t say which set she used. Roland Hublou, retired Everett dentist and fisherman, lived at 1402 Grand Avenue as a youngster. In 2008 he still could picture the 14th Street stairs. “There were 144 steps. My brother used to run up and down them to get in shape for track when he was in high school.” To the casual viewer, there is no trace of the stairs in 2008. It is possible remains are hidden in the brush along the bank, but searching for them would be quiet an effort. Jetty Island The history of this man-made island, also known as Tract Q, can be traced back to 1893, when the Everett Land Company unveiled an elaborate fresh water harbor plan for the fledgling city. The scheme consisted of channeling the Snohomish River along the Everett bay front and installing locks at the river’s mouth and upstream where Union and Steamboat sloughs break off from the main river. The locks would close as the tide went, thus leaving the main river channel always filled with water. Protective dikes would be required on both sides of the bay front river channel for the system to work. The Land Company submitted the plan to the federal government, which finally agreed to fund a drastically scaled down version. A protective dike would be built west of the river channel that would be dredged along the bay front. The work began in 1895 when nearly 8,000 feet of a primitive dike was built southwest of Smith Island. This marked the beginning of what is known today as Jetty Island. About a year and a half later, the dike was extended another 6,5000 feet southward. The river channel was dredged at that time and the excavated material was dumped on the west side of the dike. Further work occurred in 1900, including a 2,300-foot extension of the dike - or jetty. Over the years more material was added as the dredging of the Snohomish River channel continued. The Port of Everett bought Jetty Island from the Everett Improvement Company after the Port District voters authorized the proposed purchase on December 1, 1928. The property includes approximately 1,800 acres, much of it tidelands to the west. Over the years, various concepts for Jetty Island’s use have been proposed, ranging from industrial parks to vast recreational complexes. In 2008, it is a relatively peaceful retreat that can only be reached by boat. It is a favorite spot for kite boarders and those who appreciate the warm water of the extensive tide flats. Wildlife such as waterfowl, bald eagles, ospreys, crab and juvenile salmon have found a welcoming environment. And, not accidentally, Jetty Island still serves its original purpose of NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 83 protecting the Snohomish River channel and the harbor. NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 84 BIBLIOGRAPHY Books, Booklets, Pamphlets, Flyers and Articles August P. Mardesich An Oral History; Boswell, Sharon; Washington State Oral History, Program; Office of the Secretary of State; Ralph Munro, Secretary of State; 2000 Baker, Loren, Looking Back, booklet published by First Federal Savings and Loan Association of Everett, Washington, 1967 Brahnam, Mary Edith and Hansberry, Vera, 1977 Olympic Bank / 1902 Everett Trust: A Seventy-Five Year Commemorative Issue, published by Olympic Bank, Everett, Washington, 1978 Cameron, David and others, Snohomish County: An Illustrated History, Kelcema Books LLC, Index, Washington, 2005 Clark, Norman, Mill Town: A Social History of Everett, Washington from Its Earliest Beginnings on the Shores of Puget Sound to the Tragic and Infamous Event Known as the Everett Massacre, University of Washington Press, Seattle and London, 1970 The Coast, Vol. 14, October, 1907, booklet covering Alaska and Greater Northwest, Everett, Washington, Feature of this Number, The Coast Publishing Company, Seattle, Washington Collected Memories: Recollections of Alvin B. Pettersen, published by Snohomish County Museum and Historical Association, printed by Snohomish Publishing Company, Inc., Snohomish, Washington, edited by Elise Sheehan, 1999 “Cruise-A-Home 40”, advertising brochure by Cruise-A-Home, Inc., Everett, Washington, circa 1970 “Cruise-A-Home”, description in internet’s Wikipedia, retrieved November 23, 2008, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cruise-a-Home Cruise-A-Home Unofficial Page from internet, site visited on November 22, 2008, http:www.geocities.com/ctenning/index.html?200822 Dilgard, David, Buildings of Early Everett: A Pictorial Survey of the Architecture of the Everett Boom, 1891-1894, Lowell Printing and Publishing, Everett, Washington, 1994 Dilgard, David, Everett Chronology, Lowell Printing and Publishing, Everett, Washington, 1992 NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 85 Dilgard, David, and Riddle, Margaret, Historical Survey of the Everett Shoreline, prepared for the Department of Community Development of Everett, Washington, November 1973 Dilgard, David, unpublished chronology of Everett Lumber and Shingle Mills, 1892 to approximately 1914 Estes, Bill, “Testing the Cruise-A-Home 40”, article in Family House boating magazine, A trailer Life Publication, April 1975 Everett Elks # 479 Centennial pamphlet, 1999 Everett Mayors flyer published by the City of Everett, Washington as a legend for Bernie Webber’s paintings of each Everett mayor, 1893 to 2002 Everett Engineering, Inc. website on internet, visited on December 29, 2008 http://www.everettengineering.com/ Everett, Washington: A City of Industries, pamphlet published by the Everett Commercial Club in 1897 Everett, Washington / Puget Sound, Everett Chamber of Commerce booklet, circa 1902 Everett Yacht Club Centennial: 1907-2007, edited by Mildie Morrow, printed by K & H Integrated Print Solutions, Everett, Washington, 2007 Hasenoehrl, RaeJean and the Everett Fisherman’s Tribute Committee, Everett Fishermen: Images of America, Arcadia Publishing, Charleston, SC and other U.S. cities, 2008 Henderson, Charles Z., The Fire Boys: 100 Years of Everett Firefighting History, a project of the Everett (Washington) Firefighters’ Association, the Donning Company, Virginia Beach, Virginia, 1992 Historic Everett, brochures for home tours History of the Everett Clinic, booklet prepared by the Everett Clinic, Everett, Washington, 1999 HistoryLink.org Essay 8384, Bellingham’s Croatian Community and Commercial Fishing: A Reminiscence by Steve Kirk Hunt, Herbert and Kaylor, Floyd C., Washington West of the Cascades, S.J. Clarke NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 86 Publishing Company, Chicago, Seattle and Tacoma, 1917 The Island of Vis, Generalturist Ltd., Zagreb, Croatia, 2004 Malstrom, Helmer, Memory Lanes of Old Everett and its East Riverside, published by the Estate of Helmer Malstrom, Everett, Washington and printed by Packrat Press, 1986 McClain, Owen P., Hooks and Slices: The First Eighty Years at the Everett Golf and Country Club, published by the Everett Golf and Country Club, Everett, Washington and printed by K & H Printers, Everett, Washington, 1992 O’Donnell, Jack, Immaculate Conception Parish - One Hundred Years, published by Immaculate Conception Centennial Committee, 2005 O’Donnell, Jack, unpublished chronology of events in Everett and Snohomish County O’Donnell, Lawrence E., Celebrating Eighty Years of Service: A History of the Everett Rotary Club, published by the Rotary Club of Everett, Washington, 1996 O’Donnell, Lawrence E., Everett: Past and Present, A Centennial History of Everett, Washington, published by Cascade Savings Bank of Everett, Washington, designed and printed by K & H Printers, Everett, Washington, 1993 O’Donnell, Lawrence E., Everett School District: The First 100 Years, Peanut Butter Publishing, Seattle, Washington, 1992 O’Donnell, Lawrence E., 75 Years of Serving Youth, A Diamond Anniversary booklet published by the Evergreen Area Council, Boy Scouts of America, Everett, Washington, 1992 Northwest Fisheries Science Center, National Oceanic Atmosphere Administration handout, (Pacific States Marine Fisheries commission 2004. West Coast Marine Fishing community Descriptions.) (F. Jahns, President, Quality Seafood services, Everett) Poehlman, Elizabeth S., Darrington: Mining Town / Timber Town, Gold Hill Press, Shoreline, Washington, 1979, 1995 Riverside Remembers, Vol. I, II, III, published by the Greater Riverside Organization of Everett, Washington, Mary Winspear, project chairperson, 1985, 1986, 1987 Smith, Walker G., The Everett Massacre: A History of the Class Struggle in the Lumber Industry, I.W.W. Publishing Bureau, Chicago, Illinois, circa 1917 - volume used by authors is a 1965 facsimile reproduction by The Shorey Book Store, Seattle, Washington NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 87 A Stroll Through History, a Self Guided Walking Tour of the Bayside Neighborhood, booklet produced by the Bayside Neighborhood Association in cooperation with the City of Everett, Washington, December 2007 A Survey of Everett’s Historical Properties, booklet prepared by the Everett Public Library and the City of Everett Department of Planning and community Developmeny, first printed in 1976, revised and reprinted in 1996 Seventy Years of Service: General Hospital Medical Center,” booklet published by General Hospital Medical Center, booklet published by General Hospital Medical Center, Everett Washington, and printed by The Allied Printers, text by Jeanne A. Edwards and Florence R. Hansen, 1994 Through Their Eyes VII, booklet featuring interviews of Everett High School graduates, prepared by David Hastings’ 2002 Honors Government / Washington State History Class, Everett High School, Everett, Washington, interview of Charles Trask, M.D., by Walker Stanovsky Voices from Everett’s First Century, published by the Snohomish County Museum and Historical Association and printed by Valco Graphics, USA, Phyllis Royce, project committee chair, 1994 Whitfield, William, History of Snohomish County, Washington, Vol. I and II, Pioneer Historical Publishing Company, Chicago - Seattle, 1926 William A. Gissberg, An Oral History, an interview of William a. Gissberg by Sharon Boswell, part of Washington State Oral History Program, Office of the Secretary of State, Ralph Munro, Secretary of State, Olympia, Washington, 1996 Windermere Real Estate Company, flyers on houses for sale: 2917 and 2919 Nassau Street, December 2008 Interviews and Conversations Ahmann, Victoria, telephone conversation, January 10, 2009 Almvig, Delbert; Cunningham, Phil; Ericksen Ron; Hublou, Roland; Kast, Bud; Kirkus, Dick; Solie, Jerry; Zuanich, Frank; group interview, October 24, 2009 Almvig, Dick, personal conversation, December 29, 2008 Bannan, Phil, personal conversation, November 20, 2008 Barcott, Joe Jr., Email interview, November 2008 NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 88 Barker, Burke, Jr., telephone conversation, November 24, 2008 Benbow, Mike, telephone interview, December 18, 2008 Borovina, Jay, telephone interview, December 14, 2008 Chase, Otto, November 11, 2008 letter Chase, Stephen, Jr., November 18, 2008 letter Cameron, David, Ph.D. (retired) Email, January 2, 2009 Collins, Tom, personal interview, November 20, 2008 Cunningham, Phil, personal interview, December 29, 2008 Dilgard, David, historian, Northwest Room, Everett Public Library, several conversations, September to December 2008 Eitel, Dick, telephone conversations, December 2008 Elwood, Steve, several conversations and visits to NMRA, September to December 2008 Fitch, Harold and Ella Fitch; Fitch, Vernon; Ingram, Carole Leigh personal group interview, December 5, 2008 Greig, Norma, personal interview, December 27, 2008 Hasenoehrl, RaeJean, author of Everett Fishermen, Arcadia, lecture, November 9, 2008 at Everett Public Library Hegeberg, Brian “Bud”, several interviews, November 2008 - January 2009 Hoban, Tom, Email interviews, December 2008 Hoglund, Erv, telephone interview, December 27, 2008 Hulbert, David, Email conversation, November 2008 Hulbert, William G., Email conversation, November 2008 Jackson, Peter, personal interview, December 23, 2008 NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 89 Kirkland, Kenneth, telephone conversation, December 2, 2008 Lamb, Sidne (Morris),; Haynes, Gretchen (Morris); Stoddard, Julie (Morris) Dawson; daughters of J. Paul Morris; Groenhert, Lindsay, granddaughter of J. Paul Morris, personal interview, December 6, 2008 LeMaster, Dennis, Ph.D. (retired), Email response, December 19, 2008 Leese, William O. and Charlene Leese, personal interview, December 4, 2008 Mardesich, Wini, personal interview, September 23, 2008 Martin, Dan, personal and telephone conversations, December 29, 2008, (Everett Engineering) Martinis, Paul V., telephone interview, December 18, 2008 Morris, Kelley, and Morris, Jack, sons of Walter Morris, telephone and Email interviews, December 2008 to January 2009 Murphy, Thomas W. Ph.D., lecture on The “Nature” of the Jetty: An ethnography on an uninhabited island, September 21, 2008, Everett Public Library Newton, Henry, conversation on December 16, 2008 Oldfield, Chris, telephone interview, December 18, 2008 Piercey, Barbara, interview, December 19, 2008, and several telephone and Email conversations, September to December 2008 Piercey, Jim, interview, December 19, 2008, and several telephone and Email conversations, September to December 2008 Piercey, Paul, unpublished reflections on fishing, 1996 Platt, Frank, several conversations, October to December, 2008 Ramstad, David, personal interview, October 16, 2008 Rubatino, Ed, personal conversations, November 13 and 20, 2008 Schindler, George Sr. and Schindler, George Jr., personal interview, November 20, 2008 Sharp, Eugene, personal interview, November 21, 2008 NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 90 Stephanson, Ray, telephone interview, December 23, 2008 Stuchell, Harry, several conversations in November and December, 2008 Tolnay, Stewart, Ph.D., Department of Sociology, University of Washington, Seattle, Washington, Email, December 8, 2008 Van Wingen, Melinda, historian, Northwest Room, Everett Public Library, several conversations, September to December 2008 Weber, Jim, personal conversation, November 20, conversation and visit to NMRA, December 3, 2008 Whitehead, Michael, personal interview, December 29, 2008 Wright, Deborah, conversations, November 2008 Zuanich, Frank, several conversations, December 2008 Zuanich, Kay, telephone interview, December 23, 2008 Zuanich, Matt, telephone interview, December 21, 2008 Newspapers “The City of Everett, State of Washington U.S.A., 1900,” a souvenir edition of The Daily Independent (newspaper) in booklet form, published by The Daily Independent, Everett, Washington, 1900 Everett Daily Herald, prime newspaper source, many articles used Everett Morning Tribune Everett News Seattle Post Intelligencer Port of Everett Documents and Publications Andersen, R.A., special report to State of Washington Committee on Parks and Natural NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 91 Resources from the Port of Everett Manager, May 18, 1972 Everett Port Commission meeting minutes, 1918-2008 Historical Chronology: 14th Street Wharf and Adjacent Areas, 1892-1998, Port of Everett document compiled by Dennis Gregoire Port of Everett Annual Reports, several from 1954 to 2007 Port of Everett Financial Reports, several from 1943 to 1961 Port of Everett, various maps and documents identifying Port property Portside, Port of Everett publication, summer 2008, chronology of Port development, 1892-2008 Welcome to the Port of Everett booklet published by the Port of Everett, September 2008 Reference Documents: Government Reports, Directories, Charts, Maps Birdseyeview of Everett, Washington, 1893, aerial view artist rendition by Brown’s Land and Engineering Company of Everett, Washington City Directories for Everett, Washington, 1893-1999, published by R.L. Polk and Company Folders with articles about significant people in Everett (Washington) history, Northwest Room, Everett Public Library, Everett, Washington Maps of Everett in Northwest Room of Everett Public Library: Sanborn, Metsker, Corps of Engineers, Anderson, Everett Improvement Company, Kroll and Manoa maps NESIKA, official yearbook of Everett High School, Everett, Washington, several used United States Census Information, for 1900, 1910, 1920, 1930, 1940 NMR – Historians Draft January 10, 2009 Page | 92