In every history, there is always a dramatic turning-point. Tenuta San Leonardo
saw that moment at the end of the 1960s, when Marchese Anselmo Guerrieri
Gonzaga (1895-1974), who had shown enormous dedication to agriculture, passed
on to his son Carlo the responsibility of giving a new face to the family farming
estate. Quite a few changes then ensued in the Trento-based winery’s vineyards:
the traditional pergola system was joined by the Guyot method and by spurred
cordon, and the local grape varieties gained new neighbours, above all cabernet
sauvignon.
1982 was “harvest zero,” when San Leonardo, the wine that we know today, first
emerged from the vineyard, while 1983 was the year of its official introduction. But
only some years later, in 1987, can one speak of a truly impressive wine, a wine
which in that year unhesitatingly took its place among the wines in the top ranks of
the Italian wine world.
All of this flowed naturally from the conviction of Anselmo and Carlo Guerrieri
Gonzaga that the family’s terroir displayed the required qualities to make it a
growing area of renown. Such a conviction was the result, for Marchese Anselmo, of
the necessity of ensuring that the family business be financially successful; for his
son Carlo, on the other hand, that conviction had a scientific foundation, based
particularly on a long and fruitful collaboration with Mario Incisa della Rocchetta,
who on his estate of San Guido in Tuscany had initiated Carlo into all of the secrets
of his Bordeaux blend, becoming to all effects and purposes Carlo’s “oenological
godfather.”
The change that Tenuta San Leonardo underwent was in fact a radical renewal. At
first glance, however, nothing seems to have changed from the past, and the estate
still looks today like a hortus conclusus relying on the same traditional values and
procedures as ever. But behind the gate that protects the property there are no
longer fields of grain or corn, no more mulberries for the silkworms. Today, there
are simply grapevines laid out in accord with the most up-to-date viticultural
canons, and the vine-rows speak eloquently of the culture of wine.
From warriors to vignerons
The ancient family name, and here we are speaking of before 1400, was Terzi, but
that was changed to Guerrieri, or Warriors, after one of the family, Niccolò son of
Ottobono, played a major role in 1445 in the conquering the fortress of Rocco, in Le
Marche. In merit of this achievement, and for the valour that he displayed in
preceding battles, he was known as Guerriero, a name his descendants assumed
and a clear reference to the family motto, Belli ac Pacis Amator, Lover of War and
Peace. In that same year, Niccolò went to the Gonzaga court in Mantua and offered
his services to the noble family, as did his son Ludovico. Marchese Francesco
rewarded the latter by granting him, in 1506, the right to add to his own name that
of the Gonzaga, with their coat-of-arms, as well as the title of Marchese.
Only in 1894, however, did the Guerrieri Gonzaga family take up regular residence
in Trento, when Marchese Tullo, grandfather of Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga, married
Gemma de Gresti, whose family had owned the Tenuta San Leonardo for almost
two centuries. It was their son Anselmo who cast a more business-like eye on the
property. He reduced the number of different crops, and particularly that of milk, in
order to focus on its viticultural production, which was already considerable, as
documented by extant wine labels from the 1800s, testifying to international wines
such as Burgundy, Rulander, Chablis, and Riesling, wines that supplied the Imperial
Austrian court in the first half of the 19th century.
We must wait for Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga, however, to meet the first technicallyadept family member. His training was directed not only by what was required to
personally manage the family agricultural concern, but above all by a lively
curiosity for the world’s great wines, with Bordeaux in first place. This interest led
to his decision to study oenology in Lausanne, and to deepen his knowledge with
research trips to France and Tuscany. In other words, Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga’s
commitment to the winegrowing profession was deeply international in spirit, as is
that of his entire family.
Today, Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga has spent nearly fifty years dedicating almost all of
his time, energy, and attention to the Tenuta San Leonardo. Nothing escapes his
benevolent supervision, whether that involves management of the vineyard or the
various steps in the winemaking process, or the harvest, or contact with the world
of his wines’ loyal friends and customers. For some years now, his son Anselmo has
been fully involved as well with the winery, like his father passionately committed
to the Trentino area, to its cultural and physical landscapes, to its distinctive
fragrances, even though he often has to separate himself from it to introduce the
family’s wines to far-off lands.
Tenuta San Leonardo, gateway to Trentino
It is not difficult to fall in love with this corner of earth. The winery lies in the
southern portion of the Trentino region, just a few steps from the border with the
Veneto, in what was once a fief of the Church, but today is a small hamlet
synonymous with one of Italy’s most historic wine producers.
Here we are in the Vallagarina, and along a provincial road that flanks the left bank
of the Adige river a modest church seems to nod to a place out of the ordinary.
Next to it a gate and a low circuit wall introduce the world of San Leonardo. In this
small village of times past, a spacious courtyard is embraced by large, traditional
Trentino-style houses containing offices, the cellar, the ancient granary renovated
into a museum, agricultural equipment storage and service area for the estate
vehicles, or actually the small fleet of camouflage-covered Fiat 500s for staff use in
moving about the property, a nicely-understated noble gesture. And then there is
the collection of early-20th-century historical tractors, whose star is the celebrated
semi-diesel Landini tractor. Finally, the meticulously-tended, ultra-spacious truck
garden, yielding its vegetables, medicinal herbs, and flowers for the house.
Looking a bit farther, the tree-lined boulevard comes into view, as well as the lake,
park, the vineyards, the garden filled with rosebushes, and the Villa de Gresti--a
magic-filled mosaic that is the fruit of incessant but discreet dedication, never
interrupted over so many years, a complex of elegance, proportion, and fine
balance, and thus in perfect syntony with the wines--everything the concrete
expression of a world intensely loved and experienced personally.
Higher up, finally, the imposing masses of the Monti Lessini, whose denizens--deer,
stag, and chamois--descend not at all infrequently in search of tasty leaves to
satisfy their hunger. These are the mountains that protect the estate from the cold
north winds, 300 hectares that every day enjoy the beneficent effects of the Ora
breezes blowing up from Lake Garda and bringing with them the tempering
influences that create a unique and favourable climate.
Tenuta San Leonardo, then, is a northerly spot, where winter’s snow often blankets
that small earthly paradise, vineyards and all. But when the growing season of the
vines
begins
afresh,
it
provides
a
blessed
climate,
one
that
encourages
development of the clusters and the ripening of their berries. And the substantial
temperature swings between day and night, which even in summer is notable, not
only gives depth to the grapes’ aromatics, but it slows the ripening process, so that
the harvest begins only in late September, to last through all of October.
Then there are the vineyards, 25 hectares in all. Sited at a relatively low elevation
of 150 metres, merlot is planted in gravel-rich soils that were once the bed of a
branch of the Adige. Sandier, pH-neutral soils, at elevations of 150-200 metres,
host cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and the venerable carmenère vineyards.
All of the vineyards are in well-drained, nutrient-poor soils that yield grapes whose
wines boast levels of anthocyanins that are unusually high, and not just for the
Trentino. So distinctive is this feature that this area, once called Campi Sarni,
should have its own officially-recognised identity.
Grapevines have been growing in Campi Sarni since 900 AD, but everything
changes, and today San Leonardo’s viticultural philosophy dictates vine-rows that
follow the contours of the slopes, in order to capture as much sunlight as possible.
Vine densities vary according to the period in which the vineyards were planted and
to the training system. Vineyards trained to Guyot and to spurred cordon have
6,600 vines per hectare, and yield a maximum for 60 quintals per hectare, while
those trained to the Trentino double pergola are at 1,750 per hectare, which
includes the carmenère. To yield really top-quality fruit, this variety needs severe
pruning, which limits the crop to no more than 90 quintals per hectare.
The Tenuta’s Wines and Spirits
Only red-wine grapes are cultivated at Tenuta San Leonardo, and they produce
three wines, San Leonardo, Villa Gresti, and Terre di San Leonardo.
With the example of the Haut Médoc in mind, and with an in-depth understanding
of the Tenuta’s distinctive terroir, the winery introduced San Leonardo in 1982, a
blend of cabernet sauvignon, carmenère, cabernet franc, and merlot. The harvest
for these grapes usually begins in late September with merlot and continues into
October, even quite late in the month for the two cabernets and for carmenère.
What sets San Leonardo apart from other wines and gives it an inimitable
uniqueness is its terroir, that “warm northern character” of its growing area, which
allows no over-opulence or excessive alcohol, but rather infuses the wine with a
judicious
natural
balance.
A
clean-edged
crispness
and
elegance
are
its
characteristic qualities, obvious right from its bouquet, fragrances that, far from
being explosive, build gradually in an intriguing crescendo. San Leonardo
represents a quintessential Trentino interpretation of the Bordeaux tradition of
winemaking. In order to respect to the fullest the character of the varieties, lengthy
fermentations allow the extraction of the noble tannins, and maturations follow
practices honed over many years: 10 months in cement vats, 18-24 months in
new, once- and -twice-used French barriques, and finally a minimum of 20 months
of bottle-ageing. By the same token, the grapes for San Leonardo require extensive
time to ripen in the vineyard, then successively a long bottle-ageing for acquiring
an eloquent expressiveness, protracted even further in great vintages.
In 2000, San Leonardo was joined by a new wine, Villa Gresti, largely merlot, with
some carmenère. It is a finely-balanced, immediately appealing wine, with a
velvety, supple mouthfeel and an emphatic, compelling finish. The harvest for Villa
Gresti usually begins in late September. After the fermentations, the wine matures
in barriques for 12 to 14 months, depending on the characteristics of the growing
season, then spends a minimum of 12 months in the bottle before release from the
cellars.
Terre di San Leonardo completes the portfolio of red wines. The younger brother
of the Tenuta’s standard-bearer, it is composed of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and
a small amount of carmenère, which generally are sourced from the youngest
estate vineyards. The wine displays then a more modest concentration and lively
drinkability, plus a refined pleasureableness that gives it a definite elegance, the
fruit of maturation in 60hl Slavonian oak botti for the larger proportion of the wine,
while a smaller percentage matures some 6 months in barriques that have
previously aged San Leonardo. Terre di San Leonardo’s roundedness and harmony
are finally crowned by a six-month bottle-ageing before release.
2012 saw the launch of a new wine by the Tenuta, a white wine made from
sauvignon blanc that is distinctive for the crisp fragrances of its bouquet, elegant
weave of its fabric, and an utterly delicious minerality. Its name, Vette di San
Leonardo, underscores its thoroughgoing Trentino identity, while the personal
selection by the Marchesi Guerrieri Gonzaga from grape grown by local growers
ensures its high level of quality.
And finally, the grappas, in both standard and aged (stravecchia) versions. They
are made from the pomace of the estate-grown grapes, obtained when the new
wine is lightly pressed off after fermentation, thus engendering the San Leonardo
magic in yet another product. The most authentic and traditional method is utilised,
steam distillation in single-batch pot-stills, the only method which guarantees
grappas that are smooth, clean-contoured, and elegant.
The distillation of the Grappas is entrusted to master distiller Bruno Franceschini of
Cavaion Veronese, who is widely recognised for his expert ability, through his
sapient utilisation of the pot still, to respect the distinctive characteristics of the
various pomaces he works with. Once the distillation process is completed for
Grappa Stravecchia, it ages for five long years in barriques that have previously
been used to mature San Leonardo, which contributes markedly to its gold-flecked
amber hue and to the depth and smoothness of its dry palate. Grappa Bianca, on
the
other
hand,
is
bottled
straightforward character.
immediately,
to
preserve
its
freshness
and
The packaging of both grappas is in round bottles displaying the diamond-tipped,
dimpled texture inspired by ancient water jars; this distinctive design was created
and trademarked by San Leonardo.
The counsellors of the Tenuta
The evolution of Tenuta San Leonardo wines over these last thirty years of history
owes much to two outstanding figures, true stars of Italy’s wine world; both have
made significant contributions to the success of a uniquely Trentino style that has
gained the attention of the world.
In 1984, Marchese Guerrieri Gonzaga began to rely on the professional advice of
Giacomo Tachis, a renowned Italian wine expert, at that time working as a
consultant for Piero Antinori. Antinori, moved by his friendship with Marchese Carlo,
was happy to offer him the valuable support that Tachis represented. That became
a long-lasted collaboration, based on exchanges of ideas and approaches regarding
crucial phases in the winemaking process and in assembling blends, a relationship
that bore fruit through 1999. In that year, Giacomo Tachis decided to substantially
reduce his professional workload, and he suggested that the collaboration be now
entrusted to one of the rising generation’s most brilliant exponents, Carlo Ferrini,
and in fact, Ferrini has been assisting the winery now in its activities since 2000.
Ferrini possesses a strong background in agronomy as well, and thus he not only
follows the winemaking on a regular basis, observing the evolution of the wines,
but he spends a great deal of time in the vineyards too, supervising management
practices in the existing vineyards and overseeing new plantings.
The vineyards also receive the attention of consultants Marco Simonit and Pierpaolo
Sirch, the famous “Preparatori d’Uva” team of pruning experts, whose innovative
pruning practices help the vines handle more naturally an operation which by its
very nature is a drastic operation, and in effect prolong the vines’ productive life.
But every day, since far-off 1970, witnesses the presence in the winery of Luigino
Tinelli, manager of the Tenuta and right hand to Marchese Carlo. He is the one who
puts into actual practice the professional advice advanced by the winery’s
consultants. Not only is his technical expertise crucial to success, but also
represents the priceless “memory” of the production history of each of the wines
that the Tenuta has made over the last 40 years.
The three cellars
As often happens to operations with venerable histories behind them, the cellars
have come to occupy various spaces in different levels within the old borgo. The
barricaia, however, enjoys a space of significant dimensions for all of the barrels
needed for the maturations, as well as a rather unusual entrance-way. The latter
seems almost a small divertissement that reveals an aspect of the Guerrieri
Gonzaga family character: in the modest space apparently dedicated exclusively to
the older vintages of San Leonardo, all laid out in racks, there is a very private
passageway that leads into the barrel room. It opens into this large subterranean
space, characterised by a series of low arches, where hundreds of small barrels are
stacked, the repositories of the Tenuta’s wines.
Behind the seductive capabilities of the Marchese Guerrieri Gonzaga wines,
however, there is no need to conjure up possible secret recipes or ultrasophisticated, latest-generation equipment. The required level of temperature and
humidity are maintained by the barricaia’s semi-subterranean location, while in the
fermentation cellar, at ground level, one sees just cement vats, where the
fermentations take place and the wines spend the first phases of their life.
Ceaseless monitoring ensures the correct progress of the fermentations, always
kept at low temperatures; of the macerations, lasting some two weeks, which help
to extract only the finest tannins; and of the frequent pumpovers carried out every
day. This is, then, a winemaking cellar that still displays an exquisitely artisanal
character, with not a trace of cold electronics. But it is also true that not a single
thing is left to chance. The fermentation temperatures are always kept low, and the
wines that are quietly evolving in barrels are monitored on a daily basis.
Another historic area is that housing the large Slavonian oak botti; once the
refectory of monks, today it is a maturation cellar of striking appeal, with its
galleries that date back to the 1500s. Maturation of the various lots of wine is
carried out separately, and the final blends, each with different proportions
reflecting the varying characteristics of each growing year, are assembled only just
before bottling, after rigorous tastings of each and every barrel.
Historical gleanings: from Church fief to noble estate
The Tenuta San Leonardo has been described as a magical spot, and that aura is
the fruit of a long progression of important events that have taken place within its
walls, with the first being the wedding between the beautiful Principessa
Teodolinda, daughter of the King of Bavaria, and Autari, King of the Lombards. That
happened in 588 AD.
But to stay within the ambit of fully-documented events, the first testimony of the
existence of this spot dates to 900 AD, when the Bishop of Verona granted to his
colleague in Trento woods, vineyards, and meadowlands located in Campi Sarni.
This modest fief then passed to the Frati Crociferi in 1215, a religious order quite
widespread in Europe in the Late Middle Ages; the monks built their monastery
here and launched agricultural operations that were quite successful for that time.
Remains of the monastery can still be seen: the Romanesque apse, with its exterior
hanging arches and traces of a 13th-century fresco inside, and the refectory for the
poor, which is a refuge today for barrels of wine. Various documents cast light on
the agricultural activities and on the very diverse crops that were part of the daily
existence of the borgo, above all viticulture.
In 1656, the de Gresti, a noble Trento family, took over the property, and became
its owners in 1724. The monastery then became a borgo, a small hamlet, whose
goal was to achieve the self-sufficiency in food products that those times required.
This meant not only the basic foodstuffs and animal husbandry but also the more
remunerative raising of silkworms. That world remained in force actually up to 1900
and beyond, as demonstrated visually in the small museum installed in a nowrestructured granary, with simple but eloquent displays showing the hard physical
labour that was the small farmer’s life, whether that involved the production of
wine, of the various crops, or of silkworms, or transporting the products, or raising
and caring for the animals. One section of the museum is dedicated to moments
from the voluminous family archives, dating back to 1500, in particular to Marchesa
Gemma Guerrieri Gonzaga, whose determined spirit and deep sense of charity led
her, in 1916, to achieve the repatriation from Russia of a huge number—12,000—of
prisoners from the Trentino, Trieste, and Istria contingents in the Austro-Hungarian
army, who were being held in concentration camps in Siberia.
This modest but powerful museum is the final tessera of a world that over the past
centuries maintained faith in itself, thanks to historical and cultural factors that
preserved it, together and intact.
During World War I, the villa at San Leonardo served as the headquarters of the
29th Corps of the Italian army. On 20 October 1918, Austrian Captain Kamillo
Ruggera, accompanied by a trumpeter and a sergeant carrying a white flag,
presented themselves at the front line; they were blindfolded and ushered into the
headquarters. They carried a request for an armistice. Over the next few days,
terms for the armistice were negotiated by Colonel Schneller, Frigate Captain
Principe Von Liecthtenstein, and Captain Ruggera, who accepted the armistice
terms, confirmed by the supreme command of the Austro-Hungarian army.
On 3 November, the signatories left San Leonardo and went to the Villa Giusti in
Abano, where, the next day, they signed the armistice that for Italy meant the end
of the First World War.