Draft End of Project Report under the project ‘Support to Country Effort for SME
Cluster Development’ of UNIDO (US/IND/01/193) during 2002-05
HANDLOOM CLUSTER OF KOTA
By: UNIDO Cluster Development Programme
November 25, 2005
1. Executive Summary
Kota Doria is one of the finest cotton–silk composite fabrics woven in Northern India.
By the year 2000 around 1,500 looms could be found in the cluster, and this number
was declining. The cluster consisted of both weavers and master weavers, coexisting
at a “low-level” equilibrium. Production was undertaken by weavers. Master weavers,
on the other hand, took care of marketing as well as raw material supply. At the time of
intervention, the cluster had an estimated turnover of Rs. 20.5 million (USD 500,000).
Geographically, the cluster was spread in a number of villages, with township of
Kaithun as the main centre of production. The major problems of the cluster were
based on technology, specifically sub-optimal pre-weaving processes like dyeing;
limited market segments; constant threat of power loom duplicating the products, and
lack of an institutional framework to address these developmental issues. Thus it was
envisioned that “Kota Doria will revive its rich cultural heritage by offering its unique
high value added fabric mainly to exporters, niche retail stores, and create a consumer
awareness of its product by the year 2005.”
To start with, the benefits of cooperation were demonstrated to master weavers
through joint marketing events. Soon the weavers were also exposed to this new idea
of cooperation through exposure to other performing artisanal organisations. The
weavers also learnt through the examples provided by the networks of master
weavers. Organising the weavers for joint action was carried out through a local Non
Government Organisation (NGO). As the network of weavers matured, they were also
linked to niche marketing channels.
The various marketing efforts led to additional sales to the tune of Rs. 4.2 million. Of
the 46 women weavers’ SHGs created, 11 SHGs came together to form an association
of women weavers – Kota Women weavers Organisation. Kota Doria also earned the
right to uphold its name under the terms of the Geographical Identification Act. Several
technical problems of the cluster were addressed. As the entire process matured, an all
weavers’ organisation was established to address various cluster issues including
branding, production related infrastructure, etc. in the form of the Kota Cluster
Development Coordination Committee. The Committee was also created to synergise
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the ongoing and would be developmental activities of the cluster. As such, it has
identified and transferred land for creation of Resource Centre. A conscious attempt of
linking the various emerging networks was also carried out. Organisations like Rural
Non-Farm Development Agency of the Govt. of Rajasthan and the International
Labour Organisation were introduced to the cluster activities. They are now carrying
forward the developmental agenda charted out by the cluster stakeholders.
2. Evolution, Turning Point and Current Status
Kota Doria is one of the finest cotton–silk composite fabrics woven in Northern India. It
is unique in its basic construction and uses cotton and silk yarns in a definite ratio in
both warp and weft. Its existence in the Hadauti1 region of Rajasthan has been
attributed to the relatively humid geographical conditions of the area where the craft
has flourished since early nineteenth century.
The craft originated from Kaithun, (now a small) town near Kota. It is said that the craft
spread to nearby villages as a result of girls from Kaithun marrying in other villages.
Silk got introduced in the fabric during the times of Prince Jagat Singh (late 17 th
century) and thereafter the cotton-silk composite structure having the square check
pattern evolved. At that time Kota Doria was used as a turban cloth of 9-10 inches
width. Later it got converted into a short sari or ‘odhana’2 of 36 inches width.
The ‘odhana’, around the pre-independence period, got converted into a 46-inches
wide sari, using the same loom but with greater width, maintaining the square check
pattern intact. The zari3, which earlier formed the end of the turban, started getting
placed on the borders or at the pallu (end-portion) of the sari. The popularity of Kota
Doria may be attributed to various factors. The ‘Oswal’ community considered the
fabric ‘auspicious’ and a must for sacred and important events (e.g. marriages). This
led to increased demand throughout Rajasthan and other concentrations of Oswal
community in various parts of India (e.g. Kolkata). Moreover, the fabric also had a good
resale value due to the pure zari.
In the post-independence period, government corporations such as RSIC, RHDC,
Bunkar Sangh used to purchase the fabric in greater volumes. This led to an increase
in demand for the fabric. This trend started in the 60’s and continued till the mid 70’s.
By this time, the number of looms grew up to almost 5,000 and market demand started
putting pressure on the weavers to produce more. A number of traders settled in Kota
The South – Eastern part of Rajasthan comprising of Kota, Bundi and Baran Districts is known as ‘Hadauti’ after the ‘Hada’ clan
of Rajputs who ruled in this area prior to independence.
2
Sari is running fabric of 5.5 meters and width of 46 inches. This is traditionally worn by Indian women.
3
Zari is a thin thread made by twisting fine silk yarn with a thin silver wire and then coating it with gold if golden colour is desired.
While earlier only silver or golden zari was available, nowadays zari of various colours is also available in the market.
1
2
city from Bikaner and other parts of Western Rajasthan. They had business relations
all across the country and they thus generated further demand for the fabric. However,
in spite of the increase in the number of looms and the blossoming of the craft into
nearby villages, demand could not be met. This led the traders to get the fabric
produced in other parts of the country as well. Literary references also speak of Kota
Doria being produced by weavers of various handloom centres of nearby states. But
they could neither produce the right quality nor the desired quantity.
Moreover, the relative decay of handloom fascination in the early 1980s paved way for
power looms to duplicate this coveted fabric in large quantities for new consumers,
namely people who wanted to buy the square check pattern, but were hardly capable
to recognise whether if fabric was actually woven. Moreover, the insistence of weavers
to only use pure zari made the hand-woven fabric inaccessible to a large number of the
consumers.
Thus, by 1985, the number of looms had decreased to about 2,000.As the centre of
Kaithun graduated slowly to producing high value added saris, plain fabric weaving got
pushed to the weavers of remote villages such as Roteda, Mangrol, Siswali, Kotsuwan
etc. These weavers were worst hit by powerloom Kota Doria look-alikes. This downfall
continued and by the mid 90’s, the number of total looms came down to about 1,700
and further to about 1,500 by the year 2000. Out of these 1,500, 1200 looms were in
Kaithun. The total value of production was estimated at Rs 20.5 million (USD 500,000).
3. Choice of Cluster
India has over 300 handloom clusters. Handlooms constitute the highest source of
livelihood in India after agriculture, especially to women. However, there was no
previous experience of cluster development activities in this sector in India. Thus this
intervention was expected to provide a pilot to understand the nuances of cluster
development when applied to a handloom cluster. Again, since this cluster was on a
downswing; it was felt that the learning would be significant for the overall sectoral
scenario in India.
At the start of intervention, the Kota cluster was mostly spread over Kaithun and a
number of other villages, where the looms were present in small numbers. Thus it was
felt that to understand the complexities of such cluster, it would be worthwhile to
concentrate intervention in the main center of activity, i.e. Kaithun and also to look into
at least one village, namely Kotsuwan and later Mangrol.
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4. Key Cluster Stakeholders and their Linkages
The key stakeholders in the cluster are weavers and master weavers. Kaithun has
about 1,200 weaving families, while Kotsuwan has 35. A typical family would consist of
a couple engaged in weaving. The weaver is conversant with all the activities related to
weaving. Weavers receive orders and raw material for the master weaver. Some
master weavers may also be themselves weavers. Moreover, apart from providing raw
material they also buy back the finished products (saris). There are 47 master weavers
in Kaithun who not only procure saris from the weavers of Kaithun but also from
Kotsuwan and other weaving villages. They have developed contacts with the traders
of Kota and other cities and sell saris through those outlets. The master weavers also
give the design brief to the weavers including the desired colour, the graph of the
design and other necessary instructions.
Some of the master weavers have grown big and they provide support to almost half of
the looms of Kaithun. These master weavers also buy raw material at wholesale rates
from the mills/ producing centres and provide the same to the smaller master weavers
and the weavers attached to them. Some master weavers families have also been able
to develop marketing linkages with an up-market boutique owner of New Delhi. She
provides designs and colours and buys the finished product after a thorough quality
check. She diversified into furnishings, ladies garments and accessories apart from
saris. She has also organized fashion shows to popularize ‘Kota Doria’. Some of the
smaller master weavers are also resorting to direct sales in various cities by door-todoor selling and similar small-scale direct sales efforts.
Supporting this weaving activity there are 12 raw material suppliers, one raanch (reed)
maker, about 10-15 ‘raanch’ fillers, 3 graph designers in Kaithun (who also serve the
Kotsuwan village), 6 dyers in Kaithun, 10-15 loom mechanics in Kaithun, etc. Usually
those who do not own a loom or have poorer weaving skills are engaged in such
activities. Providing the market linkages are about 50 traders of Kota. These traders sell
not only Kota Doria saris but also other saris bought from Surat, Benaras, Mhow etc. For
these traders, real Kota Doria fabric forms just a small fraction (estimated to be about
2%) of their total merchandise.
The other stakeholders of the cluster include the banks, financial institutions like National
Bank for Agriculture & Rural Development (NABARD) and the government organisations
such as Rural Non Farm Development Agency (RUDA), Rajasthan Handloom
Development Corporation (RHDC), Weavers Service Centre (WSC), etc. There are 2
informal associations one each for the weavers and master weavers. There are no active
cooperative societies in the cluster.
The cluster map prior to intervention appears as Annex 1.
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5. Major Problems
Marketing: Marketing was the major issue for the cluster. The master weavers used to
sit upon unsold stocks and total sales were declining over years. Moreover, there was
a rising sales of fake Kota Doria by powerlooms. The marketing channels were limited
in the form of DTDS4 and Kota traders and government organised fair-based sales.
The necessary design creation and targeted marketing was also missing.
Technology: In this field, the problems were identified with respect to sub-optimal preweaving processes including dyeing as also weaving technology. For example the pegwarping technique was a problem in the rainy season. Colour bleeding and improper
colour matching was also an issue. These features not only limited export potential but
also posed a basic problem in mainstreaming the fabric and increasing its sales
volumes in any segment of consumer. The looms were old and used the most primitive
technology – throw shuttle looms. Again these looms were mostly of 46’’ width and
were suited for sarees. Modern-age fabric like dupatta5 cannot be efficiently produced
on such loom.
Lack of institutional framework: The two associations of master weavers and
weavers were mainly involved in to wage negotiation and checking the quality of zari,
and thus provided little scope for any common developmental agenda. Addressing
issues related to protection of Intellectual Property Right (IPR), technology
development and trade related infrastructure was time consuming and would require
prolonged intervention beyond the Project. But the cluster did not have effective
institutional framework to address these issues over a longer time horizon.
6. Vision for the Cluster
Based on discussions with the stakeholders, the following vision for the cluster evolved
over a period of time: “Kota Doria will revive its rich cultural heritage by offering its
unique high value added fabric mainly to exporters, niche retail stores, and create a
consumer awareness of its product by the year 2005.”
4
Door to door selling
5
Dupatta is a 2.5 meter fabric used as wrap around over long tops by women
5
7. Implementation Strategy
The cluster consisted of both weavers and master weavers coexisting at a “low-level”
equilibrium with production by weavers and marketing as well as raw material supply
by the master weavers. It was felt that, to start with, the benefits of cooperation would
need to be demonstrated to master weavers, without disturbing the existing social and
political equilibrium. This objective would be met by linking newly created networks of
master weavers with exporters and boutique owners. Simultaneously, weavers wuold
be exposed to this new idea of cooperation through exposure to other performing
networked organisations and demonstration through the performance of the networks
of master weavers. In this effort, the weavers would be organised through a local
NGO6. As the network of weavers mature, they would be linked to niche marketing
channels. Given the underemployment of weaving capacity of the weavers, it was felt
that instead of the male weavers, who were already in sub-contracting relationship with
the master weavers, women weavers may be organised to test out new areas of cooperation. This would lead to empowerment within the weaving community.
Simultaneously various technical problems would also be addressed. As the entire
process mature, an all stakeholders organisation would need to be created to address
cluster-level issues such as, for example, branding and production related
infrastructure. Given the short duration it was felt that the above vision could not be
fully realised. Thus a conscious attempt would need to be made to link the various
networks.
8. Major Activities
8.1 Marketing
8.1.1 Objective
The cluster was facing marketing problems due to lack of access to and knowledge of
appropriate marketing channels as well as of resources not only to gather such
knowledge, but also to use it professionally. This was particularly true for master
weavers who used to be the only market interface for the cluster. However, with cluster
growth, even simple weavers could come forward with their own marketing linkages,
which in turn would make the weaver-master weaver linkage more value driven and
less hierarchical. For this purpose, the creation of new market interface was also
envisaged. Lastly and most importantly, appropriate intellectual protection would need
to be ensured for the cluster to minimize the creation of fakes and to promote a brand
image for the cluster.
6
Non Governmental Organisaton
6
8.1.2 Steps involved
The steps undertaken to achieve the above objective were: understanding market of
Kota Doria, creation of networks of master wavers, identification of channels and
linking the newly formed networks with new marketing channels. Thereafter those
channels that were willing to continue were further supported in their growth. At this
stage, new designs were introduced. Over time, weavers were networked with the help
of a local NGO and linked to a new channel. Simultaneously the entire cluster was
networked to create a forum to address the IPR issue. Moreover appropriate channels
were identified to utilize the newly found IPR identity as a brand promotion effort.
8.1.3 Implementation
The intervention started with master weavers. Informal networks of master weavers
were formed with the purpose of jointly exploring new markets. Such networks were
created by the master weavers themselves keeping in mind homogeneity in turnover,
previous levels of cooperation and trust and willingness to work together based on the
same. Three such networks were created.
More intense intervention was however required to network weavers. Among these
stakeholders, networking did not come naturally and in fact marketing was not even on
the common agenda to start with. Movement towards “an agenda” started only after
weavers were taken on an exposure visit to see the power of group activities and also
the potentiality of working through new marketing channels. As a result of these
exposure visits, an agenda for cooperation evolved but it was not yet centered on
marketing. The weavers of Kaithun, for example, decided to start with ‘thrift and credit’.
But as the savings mobilization and inter-lending started maturing and fulfilling the
needs of the weavers, demand emerged for the ‘creation of new marketing channels’.
Similarly, in the remote village of Kotsuwan, it all started off with thrift and credit but
immediately turned into networking for common supply for a new master weaver.
These networks were formed as SHGs and were organized with the support of local
NGO.
Women Weavers Empowerment
The newly found dynamism of the women weavers’ SHGs was mobilised for common
production and marketing along with design and marketing support. A marketing event
that was organised with a boutique owner turned out a common rallying pint for the
weavers from different parts of Kaithun and also from Mangrol.
Here the
representatives of Master weavers also provided a forum to promote the scope for IPR
in Kota Doria. This created further mutual trust.
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These women weaver were also offered EDP training through FICCI Ladies
Organisation, New Delhi. All these activities led to the formation of a federation of 11
women SHGs of Kaithun, aptly named as Kota Women Weavers Organisation, with a
total strength of 100 members. The organisation is registered under the Rajasthan
Societies Act 1958 and had a business of about Rs. 800,000 in six months from its
creation.
Again, the process of joint participation in new market exploration involved risks, as
there were successes and failures. Moreover such exclusive exploration also involved
substantial financial commitments as organisation cost. Hence in organizing such
search for new markets, it was decided to team up networks and with boutique
owners/exporters, who could partly invest in the process. Such investment by value
chain partners (exporters/boutique owners) included various combinations of the
following: (a) expert inputs for product selection or design creation, (b) production
coordination and (c) partial cost of organisation.
To start with, the project identified markets through two market surveys. Later, as
lessons emerged from marketing events, the project partially supported the cost of pilot
initiatives and, more importantly, linked weavers and master weaver networks with
variety of support institutions and also non-governmental and private institutions.
The problem of Kota Doria look alike was well understood in the cluster. As the
framework for cooperation improved, leaders of the newly created Kota Doria Hadauti
Development Foundation were exposed to the idea of Geographical Indication of Good
(Registration & Protection) Act (GI) through specialised workshops. Workshops on GI
were also organised in the cluster. All these steps led the Foundation attempting to
obtain GI registration . This movement was further linked to the All India Artisans &
Craft Workers Association that had launched a unique concept of Common Trade Mark
for handcrafted items, namely the ‘Craft-Mark’. For Kota Doria, the GI Logowill be
promoted along with the ‘Craft Mark’ and thus lead to better consumer education for
real hand woven Kota Doria.
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Obtaining GI certification
Threat from power looms has always loomed high in the minds of Kota Doria weavers.
This issue was well understood in all the villages where Kota Doria was being woven.
These it why protection under the GI Act was immediately found suitable for the
cluster. However, discussing properly the implication of the GI to weavers in so many
villages would have been impossible for any individual, Hence, three teams of two
young master weavers were formed who went to all villages to rope in participants,
some located as far as 60 kilometres from Kaithun. Villagers were asked to nominate
representatives. Within Kaithun, the Master Weavers’ Association, the Weavers’ Union
and the existing networks of master weavers, dyers, designers, weavers etc. were also
asked to go through a similar exercise.
At a special meeting on 2nd August 2003, few representatives from each of the
producing villages assembled for discussions on the threat from the power loom fakes.
Immediately, the idea emerged of an umbrella organisation for all stakeholders. The
rules and regulations, the main activities of such a body and the constitution of the
executive committee were also undertaken in the same meeting. It was decided that
proportional representation of each stakeholders would be needed in the umbrella
body beside the earmarked places for representatives of each of the villages, women
and the presidents of existing the associations. The election of the executive
committee went on smoothly. Thus, the Kota Doria Development Hadauti Foundation
(KDHF) was borne in the evening of 2nd August 2003.
A committee was immediately formed to come up with a logo to be used as a GI label
to be woven as well as stamped on original products. However, the committee never
met! As per this GI application format details of weavers were required. Hence a form
was created. Nobody however filled the form as they felt that whatever information they
would provide, might be used for ‘taxation’ purpose.
Finally the office bearers of the Foundation realized that progress could only be
achieved through their personal involvement. For this reason, a meeting was held at
the residence of the Foundations’ president, which resulted in a lot of heated
discussions. To begin with, each office bearers started bringing in weavers names
street-wise and as per their memory. They sat in groups at night, chatting with each
other and sifting through the names of the weavers. Soon a list of 200 weavers along
with their addresses etc. was compiled. Then the same process was also repeated with
the office bearers of the Weavers’ Union and this again resulted in addition of 200 odd
names and addresses.
Having established the first ever database of cluster weavers, office bearers started the
fundraising for the application fees. In the first instance, they were unable to generate
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anything more than Rs. 5,000, which was only half the application fees. Thus the
Weavers’ Union was approached and another Rs. 3000 could come up. Finally, women
SHGs were approached and the agreement was reached that they would become
members of the foundation and would have a say in the organisation’s activities. Thus,
20 SHGs contributed Rs. 100 each and the final amount of Rs. 10,000 for the
application fees was collected. Finally the application was sent by the Foundation
along with the demand draft for the fees and the first hurdle in obtaining Geographical
Indication for Kota Doria could be crossed.
8.1.4 Outcome
Kota Doria is now registered under the GI Act7. Additional sales of approximately Rs.
4.5 million were created through linkages with boutiques, exporters, niche stores,
marketing NGOs, special retail meets and repeat orders from some of these channels.
While initially master weavers invested on the creation of such linkages through their
networks, later on bilateral linkages were prefered. Around 75 new designs were
created through six design development efforts. Design swatch books were also
created by the weavers’ organisation. The women weavers also came together and
formed an organisation. Thus initially 8, then 28 and finally 64 weavers from these Self
Help Groups went in for own production. This bought better returns to them and thus
the same gained momentum. The number of active looms in Kotsuwan also increased
from 5 to 35. The following chart shows the distribution of the sales through the various
channels:
Sales through different marketing channels in Kota cluster
1000000
900000
800000
Sales in Rs.
700000
600000
500000
400000
300000
200000
100000
Special Events
Retail chains &
repeat orders
Miscellaneous
supply links
Links with
NGOs
Niche Stores &
their repeat
orders
Niche Fairs
Exporters
Repeat orders
from Boutiques
Boutiques
BDS
Fairs
0
Marketing channel
7
Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Act, 1999 of Government of India
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Synergy Weaving Project with Women Weaves Charitable Trust
A brief meeting of the Cluster Development Agent with Women Weaves Charitable
Trust took placein February 2003. The Trust showed interest in capacity building of 12
weaver couples each in two weaving clusters in the area of marketing8. After several
rounds of discussion and visits, it was agreed that to stimulate synergy in designing,
and 12 weaver couples each from the weaving clusters of Kota, Chanderi and
Maheshwar will were involved in creating a new ‘fusion’ range of fabrics. A nationally
reputed designer was involved to create this new range. Production was planned made
and a master weaver from each cluster was identified to handle production. Designs
would be owned by the cluster.
Within the cluster, however, a lot of mistrust remained, especially with respect to loss
of secrecy on design. This concern required careful handling by the Cluster
Development Agent. Moreover, the venture faced hurdles due to centralized dyeing (a
necessity for quality control), mismatch of designs and location of looms required for
weaving. Though looms were performing below capacity, the best were dedicated to
production for master weaver and could not be freed for a temporary job. The Cluster
Development Agent decided therefore to involve women from newly formed SHGs. A
system of production planning was thereafter finally leading to the realization of over
90% of the targeted production.
The preparation for the exhibition generated a great deal of hope in the cluster. The
exhibition was a grand success, with all products sold off in a few hours. More
importantly, the entire process resulted in a number of critical spin offs. Firstly the
cluster got access to a completely new set of revolutionary designs and design
concepts. The women weavers sensed the first fruits of entrepreneurship, as their
representatives were also present in the record sell out performance. They also got
typical lessons in joint production, where they were in constant dialogue with each
other and they also understood that marketing efforts would fail if supply constraints
are not taken care of at the same time. The importance of fresh design was reinstated.
8.1.5 Conclusion
Several new linkages were created in the cluster through the formation of soft
networks. But as new business channels became visible, the networks of master
weavers, as expected, disintegrated into smaller 2- 3 member groups, where each
would have its own niche linkage. During the process, the creation of these linkages
8
As a part of an ATA supported project
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provided a forum for the discussion of various broader issues, which eventually
culminated in joint IPR protection. Weavers, on the other hand, were weaker in terms
of own marketing capabilities and had significant problems to individually fulfill orders.
As a result, the preferred to join hands for common raw material sourcing, production
planning and product marketing.
As a practice, neither weavers nor master weavers did not directly contribute in
developmental activities but full participated in any commercial activities. For example,
creation of new designs though the need was understood by all could not generate
financial support from the weavers, nor master weavers. Most probably, the high startup cost of creation of new designs and lack of sure market to realize the same
prevented such investment. But as soon as new design required marginal investment
that gave way to immediate returns, weavers participation was immediate worked.
Design Creation by Innovative Technique
At Mangrol and Kotsuwan weavers were traditionally making plain fabric without any
dyeing. In order to evolve cost effective designs in the plain fabric itself by using
mercerised cotton, solid borders were designed by a boutique owner. The boutique
owner took partial risk (as a part of a revenue sharing model with weavers) of creating
this product and the necessary yarns were supplied to the weavers. This led to creation
of a cheaper yet refreshingly simpler design. The weavers got better wages for the
same, as this product was even more labour intensive. The finished products were very
well received in the special exhibition organised thereafter by the boutique owner and
the weavers also received more orders. Thus the capacity to produce designs on saris
with the existing set of skills and attachments was achieved even in the remote villages
leading to better value realisation.
8.2 Technological Issues
8.2.1 Objective
The most urgent technical need identified in the diagnostic study was to improve
dyeing. The demand from weavers was high since poor dye quality often affected the
reputation of their final products. The objective was thus to improve dyeing among the
master dyers who were dyeing for the entire cluster. Moreover, the weavers were
operating on mostly first generation looms – namely throw shuttle pit looms - whose
productivity is low. However, there was a huge political resistance in replacing these
looms. The logic was strong – these looms suited the special type of weaving that Kota
fabric was known for. loom. Introduction of new technology in the pre-loom processes
of warping and brush sizing and up-scaling the same if needed was also required.
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8.2.2 Steps involved
For dyeing improvement, six master dyers were organised, provided group exposure to
good practice and BDS providers were introduced for improvement. Necessary
technologies for warping and sizing were identified with the support of Weavers
Services Centre (Jaipur) and introduced to the cluster. Discussions were held with
respect to introduction of new looms and experimentation was carried out.
8.2.3 Implementation
Dyeing quality posed a major problem in the cluster, as proved by testing of dyed yarns
from a laboratory of the Textiles Committee (Jaipur). Through the visit of a dyeing
expert and the feedback and discussions with the Weavers Services Centre (Jaipur) as
well as the dyers, process related problems were listed out such as faulty practices,
spurious dyes, improper scouring, usage of iron utensils etc. Hereafter, training on
process improvement with the involvement of various institutions, regular follow up by a
student of local polytechnic, change to stainless steel utensils and improving the
traditional processing habits of the master dyers, were attempted. The stationing of a
master dyer from Maheshwar (known for high quality dyer) along with the dyers helped
them try out various dyeing processes in a hands-on manner and created links for
further help. Thereafter, demonstration of Hank Dyeing Machine from Bapuji Institute,
Davangere created interest in common dyeing to improve colour-fastness and proper
colour matching.
Power play management in quality improvement
Improper time allocation, faulty business systems, spurious utensils and dyes were
identified as the reasons behind poor colourfastness. Rectification of these
necessitated increase of dyeing fees, which had remained unchanged for six years.
Dyers were supported in costing the new process jointly with some master weavers.
However when all the costing was completed and the dying rates resulted to be higher,
the idea received a lukewarm acceptance from most master weavers, especially those
who were large volume operators.
A second meeting was thus called with an active role of dyers and this time the
meeting had more participants. The conflicts between dyers and master weavers, due
to previously unfulfilled promises, personal conflicts and the lack of understanding of
the future challenges, all added to the confusion. The group was told (a) about the
possibilities of eco-friendly fast dyes and (b) the reasons behind higher costs. Even
when the dyers promised that dyeing quality would be guaranteed of at least one year,
the majority of master weavers were unwilling. Finally, a couple of ‘influential’ master
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weavers proposed that the dying rates could be vetted by Kota traders. But this idea
also did not work out.
The dyeing activity thus came to a stop in the village for about two days and only those
who agreed to pay the higher rates were catered to. This suspension could not be kept
for long and finally it was decided that the new dyeing rates would be only offered as
an option to weavers willing to invest in better quality.
Suitable technology was sourced with the help of Weavers Services Centre (Jaipur)and
then a vertical warping drum was introduced in Kotsuwan and Mangrol with the
coordination support of a local NGO. The training on the drum was successful and a
drum for silk warping was improvised at Mangrol and installed by the weavers
themselves without any further support. The same drum has now been introduced at
Kaithun, with some rectifications by the local technical service provider.
In contrast to the previous unwillingness of weavers to bring in any change, synthetic
yarns were introduced in the cluster as it was demanded by new buyers. Smaller width
looms were popularised when orders started increasing for dupattas
8.2.4 Output
At present, all dyers posses new utensils and have learnt the nuances of better dyeing.
Out of 47 master weavers, 12 who are better linked to marketing channels are using
exclusively the new dyes and it is expected that with better market penetration by the
group more will further continue. The replacement of brush by drum sizing machines
on the contrary, did not gather much interest because it required a lot of training and is
time consuming. Nevertheless, the concept of new sizing technique has been passed
on and at a time when capacity utilisation will improve, the new sizing technology may
be tried out by the weavers. The idea of new looms did not gather momentum too. But,
12 new 36’’ looms were installed by the weavers.
8.2.5 Conclusion
Technological constraints are critical bottlenecks for growth. However identification of
appropriate technology is not a really complete answer. Market demand is a much
stronger driver for change. This feature was evident as only the master weaversinked
to non-traditional markets endorsed the relatively costlier dyeing. On the contrary, no
weaver accepted changes in loom typology, as probably they did not feel any market
pressure. The changes in sizing and warping were too marginal and the weavers were
not enthused by such a change. However, even at the risk of ‘social boycott’ changes
were brought in the usage of fancy yarns,. In this case the cost was marginal and the
14
gains were substantive, as there was a confirmed order. Similarly, market pressure
also did lead to installation of smaller width (36”)looms.
8.3 Strengthening of local governance framework
8.3.1 Objective
Along with marketing and technology, the diagnostic study identified also various
unresolved developmental issues, which would not be remunerative in the short run
and had qualities of public goods. The emerging networks of master weavers and
weavers were neither interested nor empowered to address these issues. Objective of
this intervention was to create a broader forum for addressing broader developmental
issues related to marketing and infrastructure.
8.3.2 Steps involved
To start with, exposure visits were provided for the various stakeholders to different
business related activities. As these visits created interest and more importantly
interaction and debate on development, the groups were brought together into larger
fora to address these issues. These debates finally led to creation of a common
platform. Thereafter a business agenda was identified for this forum.
8.3.3 Implementation
Exposure visits were conducted for master weavers, weavers, dyers, designers from
Kaithun, Kotsuwan and Mangrol. The master weavers interacted with members of
COTEX9 in Jaipur, other exporters, boutiques etc. in other cities. The weavers were
exposed to successful models of empowerment of local communities. The designers
and dyers were helped to interact with relevant service institutions; technical
institutions and thus they became acquainted with new technologies and issues such
as common purchase of dyes and chemicals.
These exposure visits helped in creating common interests for a particular set of
stakeholders and thus helped in mutual trust building. Networks of master weavers
were created and they embarked on common activities of participation in fairs and
exhibitions and joint marketing with to boutiques etc. The dyers’ group could realise
that they could commonly purchase dyes, chemicals and also change their utensils as
per their needs on a regular basis.
9
Consortium of Textile Exporters or CoTex is an organisation of exporters from Jaipur.
15
At this point an informal discussion was conducted with the participation of all
stakeholders. During these interventions, the weaver community always complained
about the threat from power looms. This seemed to be the most crucial and common
point of rallying. Thus several cluster level meetings with various stakeholders and an
awareness seminar on “Geographical Indication of Goods (Registration & Protection)
Act, 1999 (GI)” led to the formation of Kota Doria Development Hadauti Foundation
(KDHF). This umbrella organisation is unique in the sense that it has representation of
all stakeholders of all producing villages10. It has a proportionate share in the Executive
Committee of Weavers, Master Weavers, earmarked positions for representatives from
other villages, presidents of existing association & union etc. It has organic links with
the master weaver networks, weaver SHGs and other networks of designers, dyers
etc. The organisation is registered under the Societies Registration Act as a non-profit
society and has been in close association with the State Government, district
administration and other agencies who are mandated to help in developmental
activities.
8.3.4 Output
After its inception, KDHF tied up with the Rotary Club Kota for eye check camps at
Kaithun and Kotsuwan, benefiting 233 weavers. This provided a flavour of the services
that the organisation could offer to its members. It also mobilised funds to obtain
registration under GI Act and also went for Common Trade Mark registration. KDHF
has also been allowed by the State Industries Department to set up its own raw
material depot under the Mill Gate Price Scheme of National Handloom Development
Corporation (NHDC)..
8.3.5 Conclusion
KDHF has made a breakthrough in addressing larger issues in the cluster. However it
is still in its early years of formation. It needed an agenda to continue for the future. It
has received this agenda in the form of creation of a Resource Centre and
establishment of Kota Doria as a unique fabric. The Resource Centre as a Project has
been since approved by the Government of Rajasthan and resources have been
allocated for the same.
10
Kota Doria is woven in several villages of the three districts of Kota, Bundi & Baran of Rajasthan.
16
Creation of KCDCC
The Kota Cluster Development Coordination Committee (KCDCC) was created under
the chairmanship of the District Collector of Kota in order to develop synergy between
the various government and non-government institutions, academic institutions and
development institutions for their activities of the Kota Doria cluster. It also acts as a
forum for the weaving community to voice their concerns on various issues.
The committee has had three meetings since its inception and it has been able to
synergize the activities of the local polytechnic, the Weavers Service Centre, the Indian
Institute for Crafts and Design and other institutions for design and training and
NABARD - and the Districts Industries Centre for support activities besides the
involvement of the district administration itself in mobilizing the land for the resource
centre for Kota Doria weavers.
Through the involvement of the local revenue officials as well as the municipality of
Kaithun, it was able to transfer about 8 hectares land to the municipality for the
construction of the Weavers Resource Centre (WRC). The municipality would be
deploying funds from its own sources for the upkeep of the roads and electrification of
the same and the user fee payable by the weaver community for the land would help in
sustaining the maintenance activities. The committee has been able to formulate action
plans for design development, training, market facilitation and technology transfer and
credit facilitation.
9. Results
The outcomes of UNIDO intervention can be summarised as follows;
Firm level indicators
 Additional sales of approximately Rs. 4.2 million came through new linkages with 20
boutiques, 5 exporters, 7 niche stores, 2 marketing NGOs, 2 supply linkages, 5
special retail meets and repeat orders from some of these channels, besides the
participation in 19 routine fairs and 7 niche fairs and exhibitions.


Savings by the dyers due to common purchase of raw materials and improved
dyeing processes and fuel-efficient utensils is an ongoing activity.
Creation of about 75 new designs and 3 new product ranges involving Government
Women Polytechnic College (GWPC), National Institute of Fashion Design (NIFD),
National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Indian Institute of Crafts & Design
(IICD) and reputed fashion & textiles designers benefiting 14 Master Weavers and 7
weaver SHGs involved in product diversification & design development activities.
17

Training to nearly 400 weavers and master weavers on one or more of the
following: design development, basic business management practices and weaving;
through 19 exposure visits, 3 seminars, 2 EDPs, 3 technical trainings and 4 SHG
management workshops


Cumulative savings by SHGs for Rs. 884,000
8 training programmes on dyeing improvement and strong follow-up thereof
benefiting all the 6 master dyers and another 37 weavers. This led to introduction of
Reactive, VAT, Napthol and Sulphur dyes in the cluster.
Cluster level indicators
 Geographical Indication and Craft Mark awarded to Kota Doria cluster
 Umbrella organisation KDHF owns the GI & CTM. It is coordinating the setting up of
a Common Facility Centre in Kaithun
 Creation of KWWO, a common production and marketing organisation of women
weaver
 Creation of KCDCC, the district level coordination committee
 Involvement of State government agency RUDA & International Labour
Organisation (ILO) for continuation of cluster activities
 Acceptance of project proposal of Rs. 14.2 million crores for setting up of CFC in
Kaithun by the State Government and allocation of 8 hectares of land for the same
by the district administration.
 RUDA has established its office in the cluster and has got proposals under various
schemes sanctioned for activities in the cluster.
Policy level indicators:
 RUDA and its partners (about 35 participants) trained on Cluster development
methodology and supporting 5 more artisan clusters in the State.
10. Sustainability indicators
In line with the experiences of support to other artisan clusters, various cluster
development initiatives are still in its formative stage in the third year of implementation
and need further handholding. The latter has been ensured as a component of
UNIDO’s exit strategy with the involvement of two lead support institutions such as
RUDA and ILO.
RUDA was involved as a premium support organisation during the Project. RUDA has
since initiated a proactive dialogue with NIFT New Delhi to take up a special SGSY 11
11
Swarn Jayanti Grameen Swarojgar Yojana, a scheme of Minsitry of Rural Development, Government of India, for providing a
holistic package of interventions to rural poor
18
project with Kota Doria and funds have been earmarked at DRDA12 Kota to provide the
State share in the proposed project. The project is in its final stages of submission and
this would ensure that not only funds for design and marketing support but also for
capacity building of the weaver community would be available. RUDA has already
posted a project manager to coordinate the activities in the cluster since July 2005 with
a focus on GI implementation and the Resource Centre. It has already taken up few
design development programmes for a fashion show planned with international
designers and marketing activities. Its support for participation in fairs and exhibitions is
an ongoing activity.
The International Labour Organization (ILO) was also provided all the conceptual
support and ILO has now started its activities in Kota cluster under the design phase of
their project “Decent work conditions for women workers in informal economy”. It is
especially supporting the KWWO.
The following sustainability index depicts the increase in sustainability of the cluster
and also points towards the work still needed
Name of Organization
Weig
ht
Score
(July
2002)
*
Weighte
d
Score
(July
2002)
Score
(March
2005)
Weighte
d Score
(March’0
5)
A. Firms & Associations:
Kota Doria Dev. Hadauti Foundation 5
(KDHF)
0
2.1* (MW 3
Ass.
&
WU)
0.9
Kota Women Weavers Organisation 10
(KWWO)
0
0
3
1.8
Master Weavers’ Group 1
10
0
0
3
1.8
Master Weavers’ Group 2
10
0
0
3
1.8
Master Weavers’ Group 3
10
0
0
3
1.8
Women Weavers’ SHGs
15
0
0
6
5.4
Dyers’ Group
10
0
0
6
3.6
Designers’ Club
10
0
0
2
1.2
MW & W Groups of Kotsuwan &
Mangrol
10
0
0
3
1.8
Kota Traders’ Association
10
3
1.8
2
1.2
Subtotal A:
100
4.5
21.3
12
District Rural Development Authority, an arm of the district administration in each of the districts in India, which implements,
monitors and supports rural development activities and related projects.
19
B. Support Institutions/ BDS:
Weavers
Jaipur
Service
Centre
(WSC), 10
2
0.6
7
2.1
Textiles Committee, Jaipur
10
0
0
5
1.5
Govt. Women’s Polytechnic (GWPC)
10
0
0
5
1.5
RUDA
10
0
0
5
3.0
DIC
5
2
0.3
5
0.75
NIFT, New Delhi
10
0
0
6
1.8
Clariant Chemicals
5
0
0
5
0.75
Sambal Sansthan
5
0
0
7
1.05
Marketing BDS
5
0
0
3
0.45
IICD
10
0
0
5
1.5
Women Weave
10
0
0
6
1.8
Designing BDS
5
0
0
2
0.3
Shilpi Sansthan
5
0
0
4
0.60
Subtotal B:
100
0.9
17.10
C. Brokering Institutions:
Kota Doria Development
Foundation - KDHF
Hadauti 40
0
0
4
1.6
RUDA
30
0
0
7
2.1
KWWO
30
0
0
4
1.2
Subtotal C:
100
Total
* At the time of initiation of the project
0
4.9
5.4
43.30
The following charts depict the expenditure pattern in the cluster during the project:
Table 1: Percentage share of total contribution by various stakeholders for Kota Cluster
32%
UNIDO
Cluster Stakeholders
Support Institutions
50%
18%
20
Table 2: Contribution by various stakeholders for Kota Cluster during the Project Period
(July 2002 to April 2005)
90%
80%
Share in total yearwise expenses
70%
60%
50%
UNIDO
Cluster stakeholders
Support Institutions
40%
30%
20%
10%
0%
2002
2003
2004
2005
Year
11. Future Directions
The cluster has come out of its slumber, the decline of the looms has been arrested to
some extent and the weavers have for the first time in the history of the cluster,
embarked on to their own production and marketing set up. Organisations like ILO and
RUDA have started working in the cluster. The two organisations KWWO & KDHF
have own offices. The state government has come up with full support for setting up of
the Weavers Resource Centre (WRC) in a public – private partnership mode along with
KDHF & KWWO. The following activities are recommended for further growth:



KDHF should now fully get on to the task of contesting against the power loom
fakes and also make its raw material depot fully functional. It must continue its
welfare activities through Rotary Club and other support institutions. Also it has to
take lead in planning the participation of the weavers in rural haat and other
marketing events. It then has to also coordinate the setting up of the resource
centre. This will give it revenue to run its show.
KWWO has started common production of the received orders. It has to further
consolidate the process of collaborative design development and marketing. It
would surely be able to create an enabling environment for the women weavers of
the cluster.
The role of state government and especially RUDA will be critical in setting up and
proper commissioning of the resource centre and its turning into the focal point for
all interaction and activity in the cluster.
21

KCDCC will needs to continue to play the role of the important synergising
organisation for the development of the cluster
The cluster map after intervention and list of activities conducted appear as annex 2
and 3 respectively.
22
Current Cluster Map of Kaithun
RHDC, Bunkar Sangh, WSC, DIC
Boutique Owner (1)
Master Weavers’ Association
Traders of Kota
• Directly from
weavers (5)
• Through Traders of
Kaithun (45)
Big Master Weavers (3)
(Supporting approx.400 looms)
Small Master Weavers (44)
Fairs & Exhibitions
Direct sales
Wage negotiation
Weavers’ Union
Weavers (1500)
 Raw Material Suppliers (10-15)
 Graph Designers (3)
 Dyers (5)
 Raanch Maker (1)
 Raanch fillers (5)
 Loom Mechanics (10-15)
 Support Service providers (warping,
pirning etc.by non-weaving persons
from outside/ within the family)
0
Annex 2
LIST OF ACTIVITIES
1
1
Aug.
‘02
Aug.
‘02
Techno-design study by Mona
Gupta
NIFT Seminar at Kota for Cluster
Dev. Project
-
Aug.
‘02
Sept.
‘02
Exposure visit to Jaipur - Bagru
EV
Training on dyeing by Dyeing
Expert from Jaipur
T
5
Oct. ‘02
Exposure visit to Jaipur by the
Dyers’ Group
EV
6
Oct. ‘02
ME
7
Oct. ‘02
ME
Links with UPS
8
ABA
10
Nov.
‘02
Nov.
‘02
Jan. ‘03
Participation in Lok Rang 2002,
Jaipur
Participation in Craft-Ind 2002,
Jaipur
Design Symposium in
collaboration with GWPC & NIFD
Participation in IITF 2002
Design assessment of
Kota Doria
NIFT plans for CDP
known, linkages with
NIFT
I Master weaver network
emerged
Dyers could identify their
problem areas, formation
of the Dyers’ Group
Dyers’ group linked with
Dye Distributor,
Common Purchase of
dyes & utensils
Links with UPS & RUDA
11
Jan. ‘03
Participation in UPS Fair in
Chennai
ME
12
Jan. ‘03
EV
13
Jan. ‘03
Exposure visit of Kaithun weavers
to Jaipur
Exposure visit by Designers’
Group to Banasthali Vidyapeeth
14
Jan. ‘03
ME
15
Jan. ‘03
16
Feb.
‘03
Feb.
‘03
Participation in Jaipur Crafts Fair,
Jaipur
Participation in Marriage Carnival ,
Jaipur
Participation in Swanand Fair,
Kota
Hadauti Udyog Mela participation,
Kota
Involvement of local
design institutions
New marketing channel
for Kota
Links with NHDC
emerged
New market could be
observed by the MW
Group
Awareness building &
links with WSC, TC etc.
Awareness building for
use of computers, 1
Designer installed
computer
New links could be found
by the MW Group
New links could be found
by the MW Group
Consumer awareness
Feb.
‘03
Feb.
‘03
Exposure visit to Maheshwar
EV
Participation in INTACH Fair, Kota
ME
Feb.
‘03
Baseline Survey at Kotsuwan by
SAMBAL
2
3
4
9
17
18
19
20
ABA
ME
Seminar at NIFT, New Delhi
EV
ME
ME
ME
Consumer awareness &
display of new product
concepts
Links with WW emerged
Consumer awareness,
linkage with cultural
heritage
Baseline survey
2
21
Feb.
‘03
Feb.
‘03
March
‘03
March
‘03
Participation in Retail Exhibition,
Kolkata (Sujata Swaraogi)
Dyeing Workshop at Kotsuwan by
WSC
Retail Meet in New Delhi with
‘Saundarya’
SHG management workshop with
NABARD
ME
25
March
‘03
Participation in FDCI Exhibition
New Delhi
ME
26
ME
New market and links
28
May ‘03
ME
New market and links
29
ME,
ABA
31
June
‘03
June
‘03
July ‘03
32
July ‘03
Links with SPIC MACAY
& other institutions
Links with AIWC could
be developed
Links with three niche
retail stores
Link with the boutique
33
July ‘03
Retail Meet Kolkata with Ambica
Singh Deo
Retail Exhibition by Kolkata
Designer in New Delhi
Retail Meet in Indore through
private BDS
Participation in SPIC MACAY
National Convention Varanasi
Visit by All India Women’s
Conference Team from Jaipur
Market Exposure Visit to New
Delhi
Visit of Boutique Owner from
Trivandrum
Retail Meet in Kolkata
ME
27
April
‘03
May ‘03
Links with boutique
owner
Improvement in dyeing
techniques
New market link for the
MW Network
Capacity building of
SHGs, exposure of
NABARD to the cluster
Links with corporate
buyers and designers
could be nurtured
MW1 got good response
34
July ‘03
G.I. Awareness Seminar
ABA
35
Aug.
‘03
Dyeing Training programmes by
T
WSC at Roteda, Mangrol & Siswali
36
Aug.
‘03
Study of Dyeing Process by Lady
Irwin College student
T
37
Aug.
‘03
ABA
38
Aug.
‘03
Aug.
‘03
Sept.‘0
Meeting of all stakeholders of the
cluster in Kaithun for the formation
of Kota Doria Development
Hadauti Foundation (KDHF)
Exposure visit to Jaipur – Tilonia
for Kotsuwan – Mangrol weavers
Product development by GWPC
Student Team
Visit by NID team for design
22
23
24
30
39
40
T
ME
T
EV,
ME
ME
ME
EV
P&DD
P&DD
Links in Kolkata with the
boutique owners
Led to the increased
awareness of weavers
which helped in forming
KDHF
Dyeing introduced in
Mangrol and Roteda,
awareness building,
Roteda taken up by
WSC for interventions
New dyeing techniques
learnt by dyers of
Kaithun
Umbrella organisation of
the cluster with all
villages’ representation
could be created
Exposure to joint action
in rural settings
New product range
developed
New value addition
3
3
Sept.
03
development
SHG Management Workshop with
NABARD
T
Sept.’0
3
Sept.‘0
3
Visit by NISIET Team to Kaithun
ABA
Visit by Women Weave Team to
Kaithun
ABA
Sept.‘0
3
Sept.‘0
3
Product Development by NIFD
Team
Entrepreneurship Development
Programme by CEDMAP
P&DD
46
Oct. ‘03
ABA
47
Oct. ‘03
48
49
50
51
Oct. ‘03
Oct. ‘03
Oct. ‘03
Oct. ‘03
52
Nov.
‘03
Nov.
‘03
Nov.
‘03
Survey for “Road Map for
Safeguard of Traditional
Knowledge in Artisan Clusters”
Market Exposure visit to
Ahmedabad
Market Exposure visit to Bhopal
Retail Event in Indore
Retail Event in Bhopal
Exposure visit to Jaipur –Tilonia of
Women SHGs of Kaithun
Registration of KDHF
Participation in IITF through BDS
ME
EDP by CEDMAP for MWs & SHG
heads
T
41
42
43
44
45
53
54
55
Correspondence by KDHF with all
organizations
Compilation of data for preparation
of GI Application of Kota Doria by
KDHF
57
Dec.
‘03
Dec.
’03 –
Feb.
‘04
Jan. ‘04
58
Jan. ‘04
59
Feb.
‘04
Feb.
‘04
March
‘04
Participation in Handloom Expo,
Jaipur
Workshop on Packaging by IIP,
Mumbai
WSC Training on Dyeing through
HAJVS, Kaithun
Participation in Gramshree Fair,
Jaipur
56
60
61
T
EV
EV
ME
ME
EV
Visit by PSI RD GoR to Kaithun
concepts derived
All SHG members of
Kaithun got trained in
principles of SHGs
Interactive discussions
Wever – weaver
interface, paved way for
further collaboration
New products for exports
developed
MWs could be motivated
and their capacities for
business management
could be developed
Led to assessment of
various IPR tools for
Kota
Exposure to new
markets, links with
boutiques
Retail sales & links with
boutiques
Capacities of SHGs and
MWs could be
developed
Links with State
Government got
strengthened
ME
ABA
T
ME
4
62
March
‘04
March
‘04
March
‘04
March
‘04
WSC Training on weaving through
HAJVS, Kaithun
Training on dyeing at Kotsuwan &
Siswali by WSC
Retail Meet, New Delhi by
‘Saundarya’
Workshop on Quality Issues of
handloom Clusters by Textiles
Committee
66
March
‘04
Visit of Mr. V. Padmanand
67
March
‘04
Training on Export Management at T
IICD for local NGO and NDA
68
March
‘04
69
Feb. –
March
‘04
March
‘04
April
‘04
Participation in Fabric Folio
pavilion of IIGF 2004 through
Pearl Academy, New Delhi
Production for Women Weave
Exhibition
63
64
65
70
71
T
T
ME
T
Sustainable market link
for MW Network
Better understanding of
quality issues for
common branding by
KDHF members
Assessment of common
raw material purchase
needs
Local NGO could be
trained in procedures for
export management
Links with 3 exporters
based in Delhi nurtured
P&DD
Retail Meet at Kanpur through
BDS
Retail Exhibition (Teen Kila
Exhibition) at Taj Palace Mumbai
with Women Weave
ME
ME
72
Feb –
July ‘04
Design development programme
by IICD Student
P&DD
73
May ‘04
ME
74
May ‘04
75
May ‘04
76
May ‘04
77
May ‘04
78
May ‘04
79
June
‘04
80
June
Participation by Anju Modi with
Kota Doria in Lakme Fashion
Week
Retail Meet by Raj Creations, New
Delhi
Participation in Kolkata exhibition
by Sujata Swaraogi
Visit by Nalli representative to
Kaithun
Exposure visit of Mangrol weavers
to Jaipur - Tilonia
Eye Check up camp for weavers in
Kaithun by KDHF through Rotary
Club
Eye check up camp for weavers in
Kotsuwan by SAMBAL through
Rotary Club
Training on Colour Theory by
Greatly successful
marketing event with lots
of mileage and orders for
Kota & Chanderi
At least 55 new designs
in 3 colour ways could
be developed
Kota Doria promotion
and orders for MWs
through the designer
ME
ME
ME
Sustainable link with the
Boutique owner
Sustainable link for 5
MWs with Nalli
EV
W
W
T
143 weavers benefited
by eye correction &
glasses
90 weavers got benefited
by vision correction
Young weavers trained
5
‘04
RUDA CDA at Kaithun
81
June
‘04
Kota displayed by Anju Modi in
Lakme Fashion Week
82
July ‘04
CB
83
July ‘04
Training on eye check up to 8
women from Kaithun by Kota Eye
Hospital
Retail Meet with Shilpi Sansthan in
New Delhi
84
July ‘04
Press Meet by KDHF for
consumer awareness
ABA
85
Aug.
‘04
Dyeing training by Master Dyer
from Maheshwar
T, QI
86
Aug.
‘04
Aug.
‘04
Aug.
‘04
Training on warping drum in
Mangrol
Participation in Saras fair in Jaipur
through RUDA
Participation in SPIC MACAY
Convention, Mumbai
T
89
Sept.
‘04
Entrepreneurship Development
Programme by FLO, Kota
T
90
Sept.
‘04
SHG Management Training by
IIRD, Kaithun-Mangrol
T
91
Sept.
‘04
ME,
EV
92
Sept.
‘04
Sept.
‘04
Participation in Panchchai
Exhibition in Bangalore along with
exposure visit
Participation in ILO Stakeholders’
Meet in Jaipur
Training programme for CDAs of
RUDA and its project partner
institutions
Retail Meet (Teen Kila Exhibition)
with WW at Kolkata
Participation in Dilli Haat through
RUDA
Participation in Allahabad
Gramshree Fair through RUDA
Participation in Ahmedabad
Gramshree Fair through RUDA
Exposure visit to Chanderi
87
88
93
94
95
96
97
98
Sept.
‘04
Sept.
‘04
Sept.
‘04
Sept.
‘04
Oct. ‘04
ME
on basics of colours and
their uses in designing
Promotion of Kota Doria
as a fashion fabric could
be done
Local trained volunteers
for preliminary eye check
up created
First common –
marketing event by
women SHGs
Kota Dora showcased to
press people, coverage
in newspapers
Dyers learnt a lot of
practical tips for better
dyeing
Adoption of the drum for
silk warping in Mangrol
ME
ME,
ABA
ABAS
T
Orders generated,
consumer awareness
about Kota Doria
40 odd women weavers
got trained leading to
better business practices
All SHGs of Kaithun,
Kotsuwan & Mangrol got
trained
Links with new markets
Links of ILO with the
cluster initiated formally
RUDA and other
agencies have taken up
initiatives in CDP
ME
ME
ME
ME
EV
New market opened,
exposure to SHGs
New market opened,
exposure to SHGs
Led to greater intergroup dynamics leading
to formation of KWWO
6
99
Oct. ‘04
Market exposure visit by MWs to
New Delhi through the Export
Consultant
Presentation to GI Registry Office
for GI award to Kota Doria
Participation in India International
Gift Fair, New Delhi through
COTEX and another Exporter from
Jaipur
Formation of Kota Women
Weavers’ Organisation (KWWO)
ILO Stakeholders’ Meeting at Kota
EV
ME
110 Jan. ‘05
Participation in IITF through
NMFDC support
Participation in Panchchai fair,
Mumbai
Participation in Hyderabad
Gramshree Fair through RUDA
Participation in Gramshree Fair,
Mumbai through RUDA
Participation in Gauhar Mahal Fair
through HSVN
Export management Training
through IIFT at Kota
Registration of KWWO
111 Jan. ‘05
Visit by Tata Trent Limited
112 Feb.
‘05
Visit by World Bank- DPIP Team
to Kaithun - Mangrol
ABA
113 Feb.
‘05
114 Feb.
‘05
115 March
‘05
Participation in Dilli Haat
ME
Participation in ILO Meet
ME,
ABA
P&DD
100 Oct. ‘04
101 Oct. ‘04
102 Nov.
‘04
103 Nov.
‘04
104 Nov.
‘04
105 Dec.’04
106 Dec.
‘04
107 Dec.
‘04
108 Dec.
‘04
109 Jan. ‘05
116 March
‘05
117 March
‘05
118 March
‘05
119 March
‘05
120 March
`
Product Development Seminar
with RUDA along with Italian
designers’ team
First Meeting of KCDCC (Kota
Cluster Development Coordination
Committee)
Participation in Handloom
handicraft Fair, Bhopal
Inauguration of the offices of
KDHF & KWWO
Participation in Jaipur Craft
Festival
Participation in Dilli Haat
ME
ME
ME
ME
T
CB
CB
ME
ME
ME
Linkages with various
niche stores evolved
Links with ILO of the
cluster
Link with NMFDC
Links with Industree
Foundation
New market explored
New consumer segment
reached
Links with HSVN
Links of KDHF with SSI
Association
Formalized as a nonprofit society
Sampling for Trent
Limited initiated
Links with the DPIP
project could be created
for Kota Doria weavers
Links with other clusters
of ILO
Links with DPIP’s Export
Growth programme
created
Synergy of all local
institutions initiated
Links with HSVN & their
support for the activity
KDCC gets involved with
the cluster
Links with RUDA & their
support for the activity
Links with RUDA & their
7
‘05
121 March
‘05
Participation in Bhopal Gramshree
Fair
ME
support for the activity
Links with RUDA & their
support for the activity
ABA – Awareness building activity, T – Training, EV – Exposure visit, P&DD –
Product & design Development, W – Welfare activity, ME – Marketing/ Market
8
Annex 3
Kota Cluster Map after Intervention
Support Institutions:
DC (Handlooms), RHDC, SIDBI, NABARD, RUDA, ILO, District Admn., DPIP
National
Exhibitions &
fairs
KDHF
KAITHUN
Boutique Owner
Proposed
CFC
Traders of Kota
Door to Door
Sales
G. I. &
CTM
MW Networks (3)
Retail Chains,
Exporters &
Boutiques
Marketing
NGOs
Representatives
from all other Kota
Doria producing
Villages
Master
Weavers’
Association
Dyers’ Group
KWWO
Women Weaver
SHGs (36)
Graph
Designers’
Group
Weavers’
Union
Kotsuwan –
Mangrol Weaver
SHGs (5)
SAMBAL
Sansthan
Service Institutions:
Technical/ Design: WSC, Textiles Committee, NIFT, IICD, Free
lance designers, GWPC, NIFD, Banasthali Vidyapeeth, JDB
College
Marketing: RUDA, RHDC, UPS, SPIC MACAY, INTACH
Financial: Banks, SIDBI, NMFDC
•
•
•
•
•
Raw Material Suppliers (10-15)
Raanch Maker (1)
Raanch fillers (5)
Loom Mechanics (10-15)
Support Service providers
9
10