The Isle of Mull Weavers Ardalanish: Weaving
Land, People, Nature and History together.
This beautiful business is distinct, it is traditional, and though it is also be seen as part
heritage, it is extremely relevant. As well as this, it ticks so many beautiful business
boxes, being viable and sustainable, mindful of landscape and nature, trading fairly and
organically. Oh, did I also mention making beautifully desirable woven products. This
business does something really special in bringing people, history and land together
producing a product of traditional beauty. I am sure that whilst clever marketeers in
modern offices are paid fortunes to think of catchy business names, nothing can be so
evocative as this name... Isle of Mull Weavers Ardalanish.
Weavers in History and Culture
Weavers have played an important part in Scottish cultural, economic and
political history. In few other places could one say that Textiles play such
an important role in the creation of personal and regional identity. Weaving
has been a traditional cottage industry in the islands and highlands since
time immemorial, securing links between people, place and animals.
Protecting these leitmotifs of Scottish working traditions and heritage has
not always been easy, and in some cases the struggle for the protection of
geographical and cultural product origins have shown. Nor has this industry
been free from historic drama. The 1787 Calton weavers dispute for
instance, was the earliest major industrial dispute in Scottish history and at
their deaths the weavers became Scotland's first working-class martyrs. As
Ancestral Scotland remark;
Weaving was a staple industry in Scotland during the 19th Century, with most of the output produced by handloom
weavers working from home. By Victorian times the output of weavers was as impressive as it was diverse. Quality
tweeds were produced in the Borders and elsewhere, cottons came from the West of Scotland, damask and other fine
linens from Dunfermline, patterned shawls from Paisley and jute products from Dundee. Although the work of spinners
and weavers was closely linked, there were often serious disagreements between them, arising mainly from the
superiority felt by many weavers over their spinning counterparts. Invariably, handloom weaving was carried out by
women in their own cottages, with assistance from their children. As with spinning, the coming of the Industrial
Revolution had a profound effect on the industry; the cottages giving way to huge weaving sheds filled with power
looms.
Today the challenges are different. Mass production and globalisation have flooded the textile and clothing market with
cheaper, but not better, alternatives. It may mean access to new markets, but by the same token, weavers and textile
makers face competition from countries like China and India manufacturing on an enormous scale. Having said that,
these countries are not able to product goods with the quality and provenance associated with the Isle of Mull weavers
of Ardalanish.
About the Isle of Mull Weavers
The original Isle of Mull Weavers was founded by Bob and Kathy Ryan in 1987, and when they decided to retire in
2003, Bob helped to move the 1920's and 1950's weaving looms to Ardalanish. In September 2011 Ardalanish was
bought by Andrew and Anne Smith who had previously farmed on the East coast of Scotland near Aberdeen. Although
their idea was to find a smaller, quieter farm on the west coast, on their first visit to Ardalanish they fell in love with the
area and committed themselves to taking on the farm and weaving mill. They are now learning all about weaving and
the textile industry as well as continuing to farm the land and maintain the herd of Highland cattle and the flock of
Hebridean sheep.
The Impact of Land, Livestock and
Environment
The production of their beautiful woven fabrics depends upon the
creation of an exquisite harmony between weaver, farmer, land and
livestock. Add scourers, carders, spinners and an awareness of ethical
business and you create a perfect balance. Farming and working these
unique Hebridean landscapes requires skill and understanding. Sheep
and cattle which have grown into and out of this mutually dependent
eco-system demands extra-special sensitivity. This is a business
woven from the land upwards. Black and brown wool of their
Hebridean sheep is fittingly emblematic of the earthy nature of these islands. Wools from Sheep raised in their fields,
are now mixed with new and different wools such as Shetland and Manx Loaghtan procured from the Highlands and
Islands. Now associated with the Isle of Man,
the aptly named Manx Loaghtan is actually
descended from the primitive sheep once found
throughout Scotland and the Hebrides and
Shetland Islands. The essence of the island is
contained in these wools and these sheep.
Tough and hardwearing, this is wool with
lineage, which has been tracked back through
the ages with traces actually found in ancient
burial chambers on the island. This tradition of
weaving and using this wool is carried on by the
Ardalanish weavers.
Weaving at Ardalanish
Beautiful businesses work hard to create good relationships with those
they work with or are part of their supply chain. The Isle of Mull
weavers are able to purchase the native breed fleeces, direct from the
farms, paying not only a fair, set price to the farmers, but also covering
the cost of transport for them. Gaining recognition from others for the
things they do, they proudly boast organic certification on a selection
of their tweeds and scarves, as well as being licensees of the British
Wool Marketing Board.
We aim for quality over quantity, paying close attention to every detail
at each stage of the production process. The result is that whatever the
garment our finished tweeds will keep their shape and, cared for
properly, should last for generations. Alongside our tweeds, we also
produce a range of unique and distinctive scarves, shawls, wraps,
throws and blankets.
For Ardalanish, the production of textiles from British native breed wool
is a step towards revitalising the traditional industry of weaving. The rich
black wool of the Hebridean sheep and similarly the Shetland and Manx
Loaghtan wool, makes hard-wearing articles. Whilst the exact shade
of wool varies from animal to animal and from year to year, the
colours range from black and charcoal brown, fawn and silver grey
through to a rich creamy white.
Weaving businesses are built around quite distinct preparation
process. Grading the fleeces, assessing their quality, strength,
cleanliness and usage, is something that those at Ardalanish do
themselves. Other parts of the fleece processing are done away from
the island. The cleaning or scouring is done in Yorkshire, whilst the woollen carding and spinning is done in the
Scottish borders. As if the business could not get any more beautiful, the Ardalanish weavers have also been using
natural plant dyes like woad and madder to add a hint of bright colour
to these beautiful earthy shades.
The weaving process is completed by the Victorian Dobcross power
looms, of the type that have helped sustain the British textile industry
for over a hundred years. Although slower than modern looms, they
enable us to maintain the highest quality by overseeing every inch of
cloth produced. These are hardy machines, no doubt prone to awkward
behaviour given their age, but beautiful none the less.
This is a beautiful business working hand in hand with local people,
traditional processes and the natural environment. Lets hope like rare
breeds, they are supported, not just for sentimental reasons, but as
sustainable local businesses.
For more information about this beautiful business visit their website at
http://www.ardalanish.com/